Date: March 7, 2006 Report for [removed]

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1 Date: March 7, 2006 Report for [removed] The Preservation Resource Center Of New Orleans, in conjunction the National Trust for Historic Preservation, has conducted a condition survey of your property. As a result of the survey conducted by professional preservation architects, engineers, historians and conservators, we have developed steps property owners can take in their recovery effort. Observations and Recommendations The house is a combination of two buildings, joined at the rear. The front section is a 1 1/2 story Creole Cottage, connected to a 2 story Gallery house, creating a de facto Camelback. Flood water rose to approximately 30" above grade, to a level below the first floor and above the sill line. Majority of damage is from wind and rain, with numerous roof leaks creating damage in the finished spaces below. Property has been well maintained over time. In general, the masonry piers supporting the house are in good condition. The entire west side elevation is slightly misaligned, with the top of the foundation less than 1" beyond the bottom of the foundation; the condition appears stable. There is a substantial bulge on this side at the rear half of the building, at the location of the kitchen. This back area needs to be reviewed by a structural engineer and the foundation will most likely need to be rebuilt. This bulge is reported to be a result of the storm damage. The crawl space under the house is currently ventilated. Previously, the openings between the piers had been covered with corrugated fiberglass, limited the free air flow and increasing the chance of deterioration of structural members. These openings should be refilled with an open mesh that will allow air to circulate. Any insulation in the crawl space needs to be replaced. There is a bulge in the west side first floor wall in the area of the kitchen. This bulge appears related to the shift in the foundation. Once the foundation is addressed, this condition should not present further structural concern. The repairs to the foundation may reduce the amount of bulge, but to completely return the wall to a flat condition will require rebuilding the wall. Property Owner s Guide to Recovery and Rehabilitation

2 The front half of the house has a roof of composite shingles, most likely containing asbestos, in a decorative pattern. This roof was heavily damaged, judging by the number of leaks. It is currently partially protected by a tarp. Since asbestos shingles are no longer available, the entire roof will need to be replaced with an alternate material. Acceptable replacement materials will need be discussed with the Historic District Landmarks Commission ( ). According to the owner, the back half of the house has a painted metal roof. There are no signs of leaks from this roof, indicating no need to replace this roof. Given the inability to see the roof and damage, these should be inspected further. Damage on the south wall of the rear half occurred apparently from water collecting in the valley formed by the rear slope of the front gable roof and the second floor wall of the rear half. This section of roof should be reframed to create a cricket that will prevent water from ponding against the wall. There is a part of a tree resting on the roof at the rear part of the house, which needs to be removed. The dormer at the front roof appears to be in good condition, except for the roof, which needs to be replaced as part of overall roof repairs. There are several missing downspouts which need to be reinstalled to prevent damage to the wood siding. Elbows and splash blocks should be placed at the bottom of the downspouts to prevent soil erosion at the foundation. Several of the gutters are damaged and may need to be replaced. The wood siding is generally in good condition, except for a section in the southeast corner (side wall), which has rotted at the location of electrical meters. This section of siding needs to be replaced before new meters can be installed. Siding should be repainted to extend its lifespan. The brackets at the front façade are in good condition and do not need any repair work. There are several small pent roofs over the windows on the west side of the house that have damaged or missing trim. These roofs will need further review, but appear to need new roofing materials and trim. Property Owner s Guide to Recovery and Rehabilitation 2

3 The exterior wood paneled and glass doors are generally in good condition and do not need any repairs. Doors should be painted in the future. The wood windows are generally in good condition. There are several panes of glass that were broken by the storm that need to be reglazed. Windows would benefit from basic maintenance, such as painting. The painted wood shutters have varying degrees of damage, including damaged louvers and mold growth, or have been lost. Damaged shutters need to be repaired or replaced to match the originals in appearance. It may be possible to clean mold from shutters without resorting to replacement. The rear half of the house has a two-story gallery that generally appears to be in good condition, although there has been some shifting of members. It should be repainted to improve its durability, particularly at the floorboards. The interior was heavily damaged by water entering through openings in the roof. In the front half of the house, water appears to have flowed down the rafter bays and into the second floor joist bays before creating numerous points of failure in the first floor ceiling. It is likely that the damage to the ceilings is more extensive than is visible, and it is possible that there is water damage to the roof rafters and second floor joists. The ceilings should be removed entirely on the second floor and selectively at the first floor to assess damage and make repairs. New ceilings can be plaster if desired, but drywall is an acceptable ceiling material to reduce the cost of replacement. Selective openings should be made in the exterior walls as well to check if water got into the wall cavities. The floors at the first floor are in good condition, with one noted area in the southwest corner of the front room that has some flexibility and should be investigated. At the second floor, all carpet and vinyl needs to be removed. At the rear half of the house, there is minor mold growth in the kitchen which should be cleaned. There is heavy water damage along the south wall, and finishes will need to be removed to assess the damage and make repairs. The interior chimney located in the middle of the rear building has several cracks visible at both the first and second floors. These cracks are minor (1/2" or less), and do not appear to be in danger of growing further at this time. Since the chimney does not appear to be in use, repairs do not need to be done immediately. Yard area needs to be cleaned of loose branches and miscellaneous household debris. The brick garden wall on the east side of the property appears to be in good condition, although it is difficult to Property Owner s Guide to Recovery and Rehabilitation 3

4 assess due to heavy vegetation growing on it. In general, growth on masonry walls can lead to longterm deterioration, due to the inability of the materials to properly dry, and the life-span of the wall could be increased with the removal of the growth. The front stoop has pulled away from the front of the house slightly. This can be reset, but is not a repair priority. The house contains several hazardous materials. Composite roof shingles most likely contain asbestos and will need to be removed and disposed of following proper abatement procedures. Paint most likely contains lead. Lead-based paint can remain in the house, provided it is in good (not flaking or peeling) condition. Loose paint should be removed using a method to control creation of lead dust. All wet and/or moldy materials need to be removed from the house to prevent further growth of mold. There are gas, water, sewer, and electrical lines located in the crawl space; all have been exposed to the flood water. While electrical lines are not necessarily damaged by exposure to water, all outlets, switches, circuit boxes, household appliances, and other devices that were exposed to water need to be replaced or certified as usable by an electrician. Gas, water, and sewer lines are generally not damaged from exposure to flood water. They do, however, exhibit rust in some areas. Areas of rust should be checked for leaks and repaired as necessary. Based upon our assessment and consultation the following schedule elements should be addressed immediately: Remove all interior finishes (such as carpets & curtains), furniture (especially that with soft finishes), clothing, and other personal items that were exposed to water or show signs of mold growth. Remove all second floor ceilings at the front half of the house and all damaged ceilings at the first floor. Plaster should be removed if it appears moldy or otherwise damaged. Otherwise remove limited sections of plaster to determine if underlying wood structure is wet or moldy. Repair damaged areas of roof that allow water to enter the house. Install new downspouts from existing gutters. Make sure that the gutters have proper elbows and splash blocks at base. Provide additional foundation support at area of kitchen; consult with a structural engineer for further guidance. Reglaze cracked windows. Replace electrical devices exposed to water prior to re-energizing electrical system. Replace missing / damaged shutters prior to next hurricane season. Photograph your property (see documentation below). Remove interior and site debris around your house. Allow for free flow of air under, around and in your house (see security section below). Secure your property from further damage by vandalism. Our goal is to help you to reduce additional damage, establish the most appropriate means to rehabilitation and inform your discussion with volunteer assistance or construction contractors. The following outlines key steps to return your property to habitable use. Based upon your building's condition and the work you have already accomplished, not all may apply to your specific property. 1) Immediate measures to reduce further deterioration / damage a) Stabilization i) Consult a structural engineer to determine if your building or any portion of it may pose a threat Property Owner s Guide to Recovery and Rehabilitation 4

5 ii) Utilities: turn off all electrical, gas and water to the site until appropriate utilities inspections have been made iii) Structural stability & safety (1) Determine the structure remains in its original location on its foundations (2) Is the structure wracked, warped, or leaning? (3) Inspect chimneys (a) Check if chimney is warped or leaning (b) Remove loose masonry from chimney and roof if accessible (4) Major building overhangs, parapets and balconies; property features including walls, gates and fences. Bracing in place if they do not present an immediate threat. Salvage and store any loose details found on the site for future reuse iv) Salvage loose or displaced item and store decorative features (i.e., brackets, columns, cornices, rails, etc) v) Examine property for termite / vermin infestations and take steps to have professional consultation to prevent further damage b) Weatherization i) Roof coverings and flashing (1) Cover damaged areas with temporary tarpaulins or other coverings (2) Temporary coverings cannot be relied upon. Check frequently (3) Permanent roofing should be installed within 12 months ii) Siding (1) Remove any hanging, non-historic siding such as vinyl or fiber cement and install temporary sheathing to protect from further water, vandalism and animal intrusions (2) Re-nail loose historic wood siding in place c) Security: i) If you are in the area and are unable to occupy the premises, inspect the property on a regular, weekly basis. If you are not able, you should seek help from a neighbor or family member who is willing to assist you ii) Secure all ground floor doors and windows with plywood panels cut to fit existing window or door frames. Provide small, mesh covered ventilation openings within the plywood panels iii) Windows (1) Shutter your windows and doors if available Secure from the interior (2) If no shutters are present, have plywood cut and vented (see above) iv) Doors: (1) Secure non essential entry doors with plywood and bracing from the interior (2) Main entry: Use existing locking hardware if operable If damaged or not present. Install vandal resistant locking devices with concealed fasteners d) Documentation: It is important that you document the condition of your property. This information may be helpful in working with your insurance company, mortgage company, bank, city, state and federal relief and granting agencies i) Photograph your property before you remove significant materials from the site or the interior of the building ii) Photographs should include (1) Exterior (a) Each side of the building: front, rear and sides (b) If safe and accessible take photos of roof including chimneys and roof penetrations Property Owner s Guide to Recovery and Rehabilitation 5

6 (2) Interior (a) Each room taken from opposite corners to include as much detail as possible from floor to ceiling (b) Special Details or Features: Fireplace surrounds, built-in cabinets and shelves, wood or plaster wall and ceiling details, light fixtures and special wall coverings, such as bath fixtures and tile work e) Debris Removal (Contact the Preservation Resource Center at for free or low cost services i) Interior (1) Non-historic finishes (a) Floor coverings and under layment to original floors (b) Window coverings and wall coverings including wallpaper if loose (2) Historic features (a) Retain any loose architectural features or moldings for reuse or as a template for reproduction (b) Remove plaster if flood damaged (to a height just above flood area). Historic wood lath strips should be retained if not damaged. Wood lath can be treated for mold and should not be a reason for removal (c) Remove non-historic, non-compatible additions or alterations if desired ii) Exterior (1) Landscape Debris (a) Remove from roof and around the house (b) Clear access to all sides of the house (2) Under the House (a) Remove infill between structural supports to improve air circulation throughout perimeter (b) Remove all foreign debris (c) Remove loose insulation from under the first floor (3) Mold and Mildew : Seek professional assistance to treat the interior and exterior of your property to eradicate any discovered mold and mildew. Treatment should be done by a qualified specialist 2) Next Steps a) After the house has been weatherized and secure it is a good time to plan out the next steps b) Contact the Preservation Resource Center at for assistance to determine if your property is eligible for: i) Local, state and of federal assistance. c) Preservation program funds from local, state or national sources d) City Codes and Building Regulations i) What building regulations apply to your property and what approvals are needed before you begin construction? Your location, building use and funding sources will determine what approvals are required ii) Determine if you are required to receive approval from the Historic District Landmarks Commission (HDLC) iii) Local building codes may require inspection of the work you or your contractor will be doing, and that a final certificate of occupancy may also be required before you can live in house on a permanent basis e) Seek assistance to determine the best qualified contractors to assist in your rehabilitation f) Schedule: Based upon our assessment and consultation the following elements should be addressed. Your timing may vary on the severity of the damage and the ability of your and your contractor(s) to accomplish the work. It is not unreasonable to expect this process to take one year or more i) Within 2-6 Months Property Owner s Guide to Recovery and Rehabilitation 6

7 (1) Repair or replace your roof including flashing, gutters and downspouts (2) Reconstruct any masonry features including chimneys (3) Re-glaze all window sash. The preferred measure is to repair historic wood frames and sashes. Should replacements be required, replace with wood windows that replicate the historic pattern and operation ii) From 6-9 months (1) Rewire electrical systems (2) Install heating and ventilation systems (3) Re-insulate (4) Refinish walls and ceilings where plaster has been removed. Plaster is the preferred material. Due to cost and availability, plaster coated drywall may be an appropriate alternative. Kitchens and bathrooms should be sheathed with water resistant materials (5) Refinish floors iii) From 9-12 months (1) Paint interiors (2) Reinstall any salvaged exterior architectural features. If necessary replicate missing features to match historic details original to your building (3) Repair and replace porches, stoops and or stairs including architectural details (4) Scrape and Paint Exterior: If you have a damaged, non-historic exterior siding such as vinyl or aluminum siding over a historic wood siding, you should consider repair and repainting of the historic material (5) Repair and replace shutters: Shutters should be operable for ventilation, sun control and security (6) Repair and replace any landscape features including but not limited to walls, fences, gates and plant materials 3) Planning for the Future: The Preservation Resource Center is a good place to extend your knowledge and abilities of home maintenance and continued preservation a) Educate yourself as a homeowner to maintain your property into the future b) Establish an on-going maintenance and repair process to keep your building resistant to damage c) Continue to improve the livability and historic value of your property through compatible alterations and additions Property Owner s Guide to Recovery and Rehabilitation 7