GENERAL INFORMATION FOR FITTING AND HANGING WOOD DOORS

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1 SAFETY NOTE: If you have not installed a door previously, we recommend you use a professional installer. Installation may require two people. Construction Methods vary in different parts of the country, check with your local building authority regarding any specific recommendations for your area. Use power tools only according to manufacturer's directions. Wear protective equipment and clothing as appropriate. Never operate power tools around small children. GENERAL INFORMATION FOR FITTING AND HANGING WOOD DOORS When hanging door, allow adequate clearance for swelling of door or frame in damp weather. Allow approximately 3/16" clearance for swelling when the door is installed in fully dry conditions (it is normal to expect some movement). Jambs must be plumb. Do not cut panel doors down in height by more than 2" (1-1/2" maximum from bottom, 1/2" maximum from top). Care should be taken in cutting panel doors down in width to avoid exposing engineered components. Use sharp fine-tooth saw for trimming ends of doors. Caution must be used to avoid impairing the strength of the door when fitting for locks. Allow at least 1" of wood back of mortise. Use three hinges on doors up to 7' in height and four hinges on doors over 7'. Hinges must be set in a straight line to prevent distortion. Jambs and stops must be set square and plumb. For best performance, any exterior door should be installed under an overhang or with protection. If an overhang is not feasible, finishing the door in a light color will prevent excess heat build-up in the door. Flash and caulk under sill and behind brick mould. Immediately after cutting and fitting (before hanging), seal all cut surfaces and ends of door with an effective quality sealer. Prior to exterior exposure, doors should be finished with complete finish system. To minimize heat loss and save energy, use a quality weather strip around the door edges to create an airtight seal. Test for air leaks with the door closed and make corrections until all leaks are sealed.

2 PREHUNG ENTRY DOOR INSTALLATION Homeowners and builders alike often prefer to work with prehung (ready to install) doors. They come pre-milled, hinged and framed. Many styles of entry door units also include a threshold that saves additional time and effort. Before You Start Make sure you have the necessary tools and materials including: a. Tools: caulk gun, circular saw, dust mask, goggles, hammer, hand saw, level, mini-hacksaw or saws-all, nail set, pencil, utility knife. b. Materials: building paper, drip edge, minimally expanding foam, finishing nails, 10d galvanized nails, 2 ½" plated flat head screws, silicone or butyl rubber caulk, wood shims. Preparing The Opening After removing the old door from its hinges, remove any remaining moulding around the interior of existing door and the old doorframe with a minihacksaw or saws-all. Inspect the studs for water or insect damage. If the framing is damaged, consult a contractor. The rough opening should be at least 1" wider and ½" higher than the outside

3 dimensions of the new door frame unit. Installing The Door Unit Prehung doors come in a standard jamb width of 4-9/16" or 6-9/16" depending on the thickness of your walls. Remove any protective packing material from around new door unit. Do not remove the restraining brackets that hold the door closed. Visually center the new door unit, slide it into the rough opening bottom end first and tilt it into place. Shim the lower side jamb as needed to make sure the frame is level and plumb.

4 If the exterior siding needs to be cut to accommodate the brick moulding, trace the outline of the brick moulding onto the exterior siding. If required, using a circular saw, cut through just the siding as marked.trim siding at the corners of the opening with a sharp chisel.

5 Cover the exposed rough framing stud with an 8" wide strip of building paper sliding it between the exterior siding and sheathing on the side and top of the opening. If the door is exposed to direct precipitation, a strip of drip edge cut to the width of the opening can be inserted -- not nailed -- between the siding and the building paper at the top of the opening.

6 Apply generous multiple beads of silicone or butyl rubber caulk to the subfloor and to the building paper at front edges of the jack studs and header plate. Slide the door unit into place again and visually center it. Press the brick moulding firmly against the exterior siding until the frame is temporarily secured with two finishing nails. From the inside, insert pairs of shims in the gap between the door jambs and the studs where the lockset and hinges are located. Insert additional paired shims every 12" inches along the side and header jambs. Do not force shims into place since they may cause the frame to bow. Use level to make sure door is plumb as you go.

7 Maintain a 1/8" space between the door edge and the jamb on the lock side of the door and 1/16" on the hinge side. From the outside, nail the door in place with finishing nails driven part way through the side and head jambs at each pair of shims and into the studs. Check the space between the door edge and jamb to maintain the margin. Remove restraining brackets and make sure door operates freely. Then use a nail set to drive all the nail heads just below the surface of the wood. Remove two of the screws on the top hinge and replace them with longer anchor screws to securely attach the door to the wall studs. On the outside, drive 10d galvanized nails every 16" through the brick moulding into the framing members to secure it. Sink the nails just below the surface of the wood using a nail set.

8 Caulk the exterior seam between the frame and exterior wall using silicone, foam or butyl rubber caulk. For a painted finish, fill nail holes with wood putty, allow to dry, then paint. For a stained finish, stain the wood and fill the holes with a matching color stick. Repeat as necessary. Adjust the threshold to create a secure seal. Completing The Installation With a utility knife or handsaw, cut the excess shims just inside the frame. Fill the gap between the jamb and studs with a small bead of expanding insulating foam. Make sure not to over do it since the foam may continue to expand and could bow the frame. Position the interior trim assembly in place without nailing it. Measure and mark it to match the depth of the floor coverings. Cut as necessary and install with finishing nails. Fill nail holes (as above). Paint or stain the door and trim as desired. Be sure to follow the paint or stain manufacturer's directions explicitly. Install the lockset according to the lockset manufacturer's directions. Installing Doors With Sidelights Installing a door with sidelights is basically the same as a regular door unit. The only difference is that you should drive the finishing nails into the jambs of the sidelight instead of the door jambs. Installing Exterior Double Doors Installing a double door is nearly the same as a regular door unit. However, before securing the unit with nails, check to make sure both doors fit flush and there's an even gap of 1/8" between both doors and the astragal (the vertical piece which separates the doors). Drive screws into the top and middle hinges of the most active door.

9 PREHUNG INTERIOR DOOR INSTALLATION Although prehung door units cost a little more, homeowners and builders alike often find the convenience and finished product well worth the difference in price. Prehung interior doors come pre-milled, hinged and framed. They are installed after the framing and sheetrocking. If the rough opening is square and plumb, the job is much easier. BEFORE YOU START Make sure you have the necessary tools and materials including: a. Tools: goggles, hammer, hand saw, 3-4' level, nail set, pencil, utility knife. b. Materials: 4d finishing nails, 8d finishing nails, wood shims. Preparing The Opening After removing the old door from its hinges, remove any remaining moulding around the existing door and the old doorframe. Inspect the studs for water or insect damage. If the framing is damaged, consult a contractor. The rough opening should be at least 1" wider and ½" higher than the outside

10 dimensions of the new door frame unit. Installing The Door Unit Prehung doors come in a standard jamb width of 4-9/16" or 6-9/16" depending on thickness of your walls. Remove any protective packing material from around new door unity. Do not remove the restraining brackets that hold the door closed. 3Slide the new door unit into the rough opening bottom end first and tilt it into place. Position the door unit in the rough opening so the edges of the jambs are flush with the wallboard. Visually center the top jamb in the opening and making sure the hinge side jamb is plumb.

11 Level the top jamb and tack it in place using two 4d finishing nails driven partway through the frame and into the header. Check the base of the frame to make sure it will fit with the finish flooring. If the finish floor has been installed, the jamb should fit snugly but not so tight that it bows the frame. If the finish floor has not been installed, measure and mark each side of the frame from the subfloor 1/2" (depending upon the thickness of the carpet and pad, tile or wood floor) and 3/16" for vinyl floor covering. NOTE: If the thickness of floor coverings in the adjoining rooms is different, mark and cut each side of the jambs accordingly to accommodate the materials (i.e. vinyl in one room and tile in the adjoining room). Carefully pull the two nails without marring the jamb and remove the door unit. Cut and sand the jambs as marked. REMEMBER: "Measure twice, cut once." Reposition and center the door unit in the opening. Level the top jamb and tack it in place as before. Holding a level along the hinge jamb, drive pairs of wood shims from opposite directions into the space between the jamb and the stud at each hinge point.

12 Drive a 8d finishing nail through the jamb, shims and partway into the stud at each hinge point. Do not drive the nails home yet. Check for plumb and adjust as necessary. Close door and drive an additional pair of shims in the space between the jamb and the stud at the lockset and then near the top and bottom of the jamb. Check the jamb for plumb. Open and close the door to make sure it operates freely. Check to make sure it fits evenly at the top and sides with a 1/8" margin. The door should not swing open or closed on its own. Remove and adjust shims as necessary. After ensuring that the frame is level and plumb, drive pairs of shims along the side and top jambs so they are spaced every 12". Make sure not to bow the jambs. Drive an 8d finishing nail through the jamb and each pair of shims into the stud. Use a nail set to drive all the nail heads just below the surface of the

13 wood. Completing The Installation With a handsaw or utility knife, cut the shims just below the wall surface. Position the trim assembly without nailing it. Carefully measure and mark it to match the depth of the floor coverings as with the doorframe. Remove, cut and smooth the end cut with sandpaper. Reposition trim and tack in place with 4d finishing nails. Align the trim and nail in place every 16 inches with 4d finishing nails using a nail set to drive nails just below the surface of the wood. Paint or stain the door and trim as desired. Be sure to follow the paint or stain manufacturer's directions explicitly. Install the lockset according to the lockset manufacturer's directions. Installing Interior Double Doors Installing a double door is nearly the same as a regular door unit. However, before securing the unit with nails, check to make sure both doors fit flush and there's an even gap of 1/8" between both doors and the astragal (the vertical piece which separates the doors). Drive screws into the top and middle hinges of the most active door.