CV/HALF AXLE REPLACEMENT HOW-TO

Transcription

1 TOOLS NEEDED: 32mm socket 21mm socket 15mm socket 13mm socket 8mm socket 11mm wrench 13mm wrench ½ drive ratchet ½ breaker bar 5lb hammer Prybar C clamp Jack and jack stands CV/HALF AXLE REPLACEMENT HOW-TO This project is a fairly easy task to complete, if you have these tools listed. I use air tools when ever possible as it speeds up removal, and helps avoid hitting my knuckles when breaking bolts loose. This project will take about 1.5 hrs from start to finish. Let me also say that there was nothing wrong with my stock CV axles, I just wanted to change them because they are a wearable item, and since I take my Sport Trac offroading I just want to eliminate a possibly worn part. But I keep my old CV s as spares in my offroad tool box. (Note: My front end will look a little different due to my Superlift 4 Lift Kit) Also due to my lift kit, it makes it a lot easier to replace the CV axles. But this same technique can be used on stock height Explorers, Mountaineers, Sport Tracs, and Rangers. So let s begin the process: 1. Get a 32mm socket and breaker bar, to loosen the nut holding the CV axle into the hub. Since I have aftermarket wheels it is very easy for me loosen the nut with the weight of the vehicle, to keep the wheels from spinning. You can also have someone hold the brake on if you need to remove your wheel.

2 2. Once the lug nuts and CV axle nut are loose, jack up the passenger side of the vehicle. (Note: Only change 1 CV axle at a time, DO NOT remove both CV axles together) and place a jack stand under vehicle. Remove jack as it will be need in a later step. 3. Remove wheel from vehicle, then you will need to remove the brake caliper from the spindle. This will require the 15mm socket. There 2 bolts holding the caliper on. 4. Once the caliper is removed, use some wire or whatever you have handy to tie the caliper up and out of the way. Do not let the caliper hang by the brake line. Then remove brake rotor.

3 5. Next you will now need to disconnect the upper control arm from the spindle. This will require the 15mm deep well socket and a 13mm wrench. Once the pinch bolt is removed you will need to use the 5lb hammer to disconnect the ball joint from the spindle. A couple upward hits to the control arm should easily break it loose. 6. The last part holding the spindle in place is the tie rod. Remove the cotter pin from the castle nut. Then use the 21mm socket to loosen the castle nut. A couple upward hits to the castle nut with the 5lb hammer should easily break it loose.

4 7. Your spindle should now be free to move outward to the extent of the lower ball joint. The only part that will limit maximum movement will be the ABS wire. Loosen the wire clamp on the spindle using an 8mm socket. Do not stretch this wire. 8. Now it is time to remove the CV axle. You will need the 5lb hammer again and hit the CV nut that you previously loosened. It will take a couple hits to knock it loose, it will only go about an inch, until it bottoms out. Once it stops moving remove the nut completely.

5 9. You will know have to pull the CV out of the wheel bearing. Pull the entire spindle outwards, while flexing the CV joint upward. If this will not give you enough room you may need to remove the wheel bearing from the spindle. There are (3) 15mm bolts holding it into the spindle. 10. Due to my limit straps, I had to remove the lower bolts holding the shock on, so I could remove the CV axle from the differential. You may not need to do this, but it just gets you more room to work with. You will need a 13mm socket and an 11mm wrench. 11. Once this side of the CV axles is removed you then just pull on the CV axle to remove it from the front differential. You may need a pry bar to help pop it free from the differential. Once you break it free simply slide it out. Do not be alarmed if the entire axle comes out of the front differential. (This will only happen on the passenger side) The axle simply slides back into the differential.

6 12. Once the CV axle is out, you now just push in the new CV axle into the differential. And then put the other end into the wheel bearing, just give your self enough room to start the new CV axle nut. Your new CV axle should come with a new nut, it is not recommended to reuse your old nut. 13. Reconnect your lower shock mount, if you unbolted from lower control arm. 14. Replace your tie rod end into the spindle, tighten castle nut, and install a new cotter pin. 15. Reconnect ABS wire clamp to spindle. 16. Reconnect spindle to upper control arm ball joint. You will need to use your jack to raise the lower control in position. And replace the pinch bolt. 17. Replace brake rotor. 18. You will now need to bolt the brake caliper back onto the spindle. I used a C clamp to open the pads up to ensure they went over the rotors. You may or may not need to do this. I use blue locktite on the caliper bolts. Also if you use the clamp to open your brake pads make sure you pump up your brakes before moving vehicle. 19. Install wheel and tighten lugs and CV axle nut as tight as possible until wheel spins. 20. Remove jack stand, and lower vehicle to the ground. Finish tightening lug nuts, and torque the CV axle nut to 170lbs. 21. Replace center cap. 22. Have a cold frosty beverage or 2 and then start on the other side!! Good luck.. Chad