Flowering Bulbs. Buying Bulbs. Bulb Hardiness Dictates Planting Time. Using Bulbs in the Landscape. Department of Horticulture

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1 Department of Horticulture Purdue University Cooperative Extension Service West Lafayette, IN Flowering Bulbs Michael N. Dana, Paul Pecknold, Botany and Plant Pathology, and Cliff Sadof, Entomology* Flowering bulbs offer a multitude of opportunities for brightening the home landscape. Their range of color and bloom type and size, as well as their long sequence of bloom, are unequalled in any other class of flowers. Although most gardeners think of lilies, tulips, hyacinths, and narcissus whenever the term bulb is mentioned, there is an almost unending array of bulbs. Bulbs require little garden area and can be planted in annual or perennial flower beds, among shrubs, under trees, and in practically every area of the landscape. By careful scheduling, a gardener can have flowering bulbs in bloom before the last snows in spring until the first snow in the fall. Besides variation in cost, bulbs permanence and rate of multiplication should also be considered when planning a garden. This publication discusses when to plant bulbs and explains soil preparation methods and planting procedures. Also provided is a convenient table including information on various bulbs characteristics and requirements (Table 1). To simplify access to the table, an Index of Common Names is also provided. The term bulb is used in this publication to refer also to all corms, tubers, and rhizomes handled in the dormant condition. Bulb Hardiness Dictates Planting Time Bulbs are considered either hardy or tender. Hardy bulbs survive winters in the ground and may be left in place all year. Most of them should be planted early in the fall. Proper planting time is important not only for winter survival, but to insure adequate root development, which results in better flower production. Tender bulbs must be lifted after the growing season, stored indoors, and replanted the following year. Tender bulbs should be planted outdoors in spring only after all danger of frost is past, or they may be started indoors for later transplanting. Hardy flowering bulbs forced in a pot for indoor, winter bloom may be planted permanently in the garden. However, such bulbs seldom bloom well the first year after planting out. If they grow at all, they may take several years to flower again. They should be moved outdoors in spring after frost danger is past. Plant the entire contents of the pot. While indoors, these plants should be placed in a welllighted location and fertilized like any other indoor house plant. Be sure to allow the foliage to remain green until it naturally dies back (usually 5 to 6 weeks after flowering). Buying Bulbs The best bulbs come from reputable businesses, either local or catalog sources. Order bulbs early from catalogs, and make your selections at local sources as soon as the bulbs are offered for sale. Select large, firm, plump bulbs or roots. Do not purchase any that are bruised, blemished, or soft. During their dormant season, tulip, narcissus, and most other bulbs with a protective covering of dry scales can be stored for several weeks prior to planting, if necessary. Some, such as fritillaria and snowdrops, deteriorate rapidly and should be replanted as soon as possible. Similarly, fleshy bulbs and roots like lilies should be planted immediately after purchase or delivery. Using Bulbs in the Landscape The most important environmental factor to consider in locating bulb plantings in the landscape is light level. Be sure you provide full sun or partial shade as the particular species requires (Table 1). Excellent soil drainage is also crucial for most species, but poor conditions can be altered with proper soil preparation. Bulbs are typically planted as either formal or informal garden beds, or they may be naturalized. As a general rule, bedded bulbs look best in informal groups, unless the overall landscape character demands a formal treatment. Avoid small numbers of bulbs planted individually or in straight rows. Mass plantings are far superior, visually. An exception to this is the rock garden. Revised 6/01 Purdue University Cooperative Extension Service Page 1 of 12

2 Flower color is an important element in bulb usage. A pleasing coordination of colors is the goal. Naturalized plantings can be accomplished with any type of hardy bulb which will reproduce and multiply itself in its planted location. Avoid stiffly formal plant shapes such as Darwin tulips or crown imperial. However, species tulips or the checkered lily, for example, make good naturalizing candidates. Narcissus and crocus are, perhaps, the most commonly used bulbs for naturalistic plantings. Bulbs planted for a natural effect should be located in drifts or informal masses. Try to work with the topography so that drifts gently climb a slope or wrap around a high point or landscape feature. One approach is to throw bulbs gently onto the ground and plant them where they land. Remember that bulbs naturalized in a lawn require special attention. The grass cannot be cut for several weeks after flowering or until the foliage of the bulb plant is ready to die down naturally. If the foliage is cut off too soon, the bulb will not be regenerated for the next year. Soil Preparation Nothing will cause bulbs to deteriorate as quickly as poorly drained soil. Most bulbs prefer a well drained, sandy loam soil, ideally with moderate amounts of organic matter. If the subsoil is highly impervious to water, some disruption by deep digging may be helpful. If the planting area is naturally low, raise the bed level 2 to 3 inches above the average surrounding soil. Sand is useful for this purpose. Incorporate it thoroughly and as deeply as practical into the existing soil. Organic matter should be worked into the soil when the planting site is prepared. Use compost, leaf mold, undecomposed peat moss, or well-rotted manure (never fresh manure). Since most bulbs prefer a slightly acidic soil, decrease the ph with sulfur if your soils are highly alkaline. However, a soil test should precede any ph adjustments. The soil should be of average fertility. High nitrogen level will promote excessive leaf growth with poor flower production and more bulb splitting. Color and size of foliage are good indications of fertility level. Large, bluishgreen leaves indicate an excess of nitrogen, whereas small and light colored leaves indicate low fertility. A good organic fertilizer for bulbs is bonemeal, with its high phosphorus content. Apply 3 to 4 pounds of bonemeal per 100 square feet of area. However, bonemeal alone may have inadequate nitrogen. Supplement bonemeal with one of the inorganic fertilizers or wellrotted manure. Inorganic fertilizers are equally useful. On loam or clay soils, add a or fertilizer at the rate of 2 to 3 pounds per 100 square feet of area. On sandy soils, use a mix. Numerous mixes specified for bulbs are now on the market. Be sure to mix all fertilizer and soil amendments thoroughly and deeply into the soil before planting. Spacing The size of the bulb, plant, and flower controls spacing; thus, small bulbs are planted more closely together than larger bulbs. Planting bulbs too closely together results in small leaves and flowers, and it prevents each flower from showing its intrinsic beauty. See the specific recommendations in Table 1. Planting After the site is prepared, place the bulbs on the exact spot where they are to be planted. Plant sequentially to avoid walking or kneeling on just-planted areas. All bulbs should be planted with the base down. Plant small bulbs with a trowel or bulb planter. A trowel is preferred since it avoids compacting the soil immediately below the bulb. For larger bulbs, use a trowel or spade to make the larger holes. When planting large beds, consider excavating the entire bed to the proper depth, placing the bulbs, and then filling over the tops of the bulbs with soil. Correct planting depth is important. Generally, plant to a depth equal to 2-1/2 to 3 times the bulb s largest diameter (see Table 1 & Figure 1). General Culture For hardy bulbs, annual application of fertilizer as a top dressing is needed. Apply at the manufacturer's recommended rates or one-half of the rates listed in "Soil Preparation." Do so as foliage growth begins in the spring. Do not allow the fertilizer to remain on leaves, or burning will result. Water it in immediately. Foliage of bulbous plants must not be cut until it begins to yellow and die. Leaves furnish food to the bulb, permitting it to grow large enough to flower the following year. On the larger species, spent flowers should be removed before seeds begin to form. This practice assists the developing bulbs to grow bigger. Among hardy bulbs which remain undisturbed for many years, an abundance of foliage with few or no flowers is an indication that the bulbs have become crowded through natural division. When the foliage dies, the bulbs enter a dormant period. They can safely be lifted, sepa- Page 2 of 12 Purdue University Cooperative Extension Service Revised 6/01

3 rated, and replanted at proper spacing during this time. Large bulbs may flower the following year; small bulbs will require a longer period to reach flowering size. Insects and Other Bulb Pests When present, aphids or plant lice are usually found on succulent young growing tips. They may transmit virus diseases. Grayish or powdery white aphids may occur on tulip bulbs. Spray with insecticidal soap, imidacloprid, cyfluthrin, permethrin, or malathion. Dust bulbs with a 1% lindane dust before planting or storage. Spider mites affect summer-blooming bulbs or bulbs forced indoors. Tiny, light colored spots on leaves and webbing on the underside of leaves are evidence of infestation. Dust with sulfur, apply granular disulfoton, or spray with miticides, esfenvalerate, or insecticidal soap. Bulb mites are minute white mites found in rotting bulbs. Scabby and pitted bulbs are signs of these pests. Discard all infested and rotten bulbs. Narcissus bulb fly and lesser bulb fly come from plump yellow maggots, 1/2 to 3/4 inches long, which tunnel in rotting bulbs of narcissus and daffodils. Discard all soft and rotting bulbs. Drench soil around plants with dylox 80% SP, at label specified rates to prevent bulb fly problems. Thrips cause leaves to have a silvery appearance and flowers to become deformed, spotted, and streaked. Gladiolus corms in storage become sticky and russeted. During the growing season, spray or dust plants with malathion. After harvest and prior to storage, dust the corms with a malathion or lindane dust. Chipmunks and ground squirrels dig up newly planted bulbs and seeds. For small numbers of animals, use common rat-size snap traps. Bait the traps unset with oatmeal and/or peanut butter for 2 or 3 days, placing them next to the burrow entrances. Once bait is taken, set traps. For large infestations, poison baits are best, but such baits should only be applied by trained personnel. Field mice (voles) eat bulbs and often follow mole tunnels to find them. Use mouse-size snap traps to control small numbers. Bait traps with peanut butter and place them with the long dimension perpendicular to the runways or within a mole tunnel. Repellents such as thiram may provide protection of bulbs up to 6 months. For severe infestations of voles, poison baits are most effective. Flowers HO-86-W Moles are insectivores and do not eat bulbs; however, they can destroy bulbs and plants by burrowing. The most effective control method is to set traps early in the spring or during fall. Both choker and harpoon traps are available. Moles rarely eat any poison peanut-type baits, and poisonous gases are equally ineffective. Chemical treatment of the soil to kill grubs and earthworms (and thus solve a mole problem by eliminating their food supply may be effective. However, treatments must be thorough and repetitive, can be costly, and may provide only temporary control. Bulb Diseases Once established, bulb diseases are difficult to eradicate. Prevention is the key to maintaining a disease-free planting. A few simple precautions will help prevent extensive damage to highly prized home plantings. 1. Since the fungi which cause disease live on infected bulbs, the most important step in preventing trouble is to avoid planting diseased bulbs. When you plant bulbs in the fall, remove the outer brown scales and discard any bulbs showing symptoms of softness, decay, or yellowish lesions on the inner scales. 2. Bulb diseases most frequently occur when plants are grown in the same area year after year. If practical, move the bed each year and avoid planting bulbs in the same spot more often than every third year. Remove stems from tender bulbs right after digging, and store only disease-free bulbs in a cool, dry place during winter. 3. In the spring, it is important to keep plants under constant observation. Examine the sheathing leaves weekly, and immediately remove leaves showing spots which continue to increase in size. As soon as the plants have died to the ground, carefully remove all dead leaves and other plant debris from the beds. 4. Use fungicides as protectants to prevent disease. The fungicide Cleary s 3336 contains thiophantemethyl, a systemic fungicide which controls a variety of common bulb diseases. Use Clearys 3336 at the label specified rate, soaking the cleaned bulbs for 15 to 30 minutes in warm solution (80 to 85 F), preferably within 48 hours after digging. After treatment, let bulbs air dry before storing. If bulbs are for forcing, treat bulbs that have been heat -cured. Use pesticides with caution, and follow all label instructions. Note: Cleary s 3336 does not control Pythium, Phytophthora, or bacterial diseases. Revised 6/01 Purdue University Cooperative Extension Service Page 3 of 12

4 Index of Common Names* Armenian Grape Hyacinth Foxtail Lily Lily-of-the-Nile Star-of-Bethlehem Muscari armeniacum Eremurus spp. Agapanthus orientalis Ornithogalum umbellatum Arum Lily Garlic Chive Magic Lily Stars-of-Persia Zantedeschia aethiopica Allium tuberosum Lycoris squamigera Allium christophii Autumn Crocus Giant Onion Mexican Shell Flower Summer Hyacinth Colchicum autumnale Allium giganteum Tigridia pavonia Galtonia candicans Calla Lily Giant Snowdrop Montebretia Summer Snowflake Zantedeschia aethiopica Galanthus elwesii Crocosmia spp. Leucojum aestivum Camassia, Eastern Gladiolus Narcissus Tiger Flower Camassia scilloides Gladiolus x hortulanus Narcissus spp. and hybrids Tigridia pavonia Canna Glory-of-the-Snow Netted Iris Trout Lily Canna x generalis Chionodoxa luciliae Iris reticulata Erythronium americanum Checkered Lily Golden Garlic Nodding Star-of-Bethlehem Tubergen Squill Fritillaria meleagris Allium moly Ornithogalum nutans Scilla tubergeniana Chinese Chive Grape Hyacinth Peacock Orchid Tuberose Allium tuberosum Muscari botryoides Acidanthera bicolor Polianthes tuberosa Crocus Grecian Windflower Persian Fritillary Tuberous Begonia Crocus spp. and hybrids Anemone blanda Fritillaria persica Begonia x tuberhybrida Crown Imperial Guinea-hen Flower Persian Onion Tulip Fritillaria imperialis Fritillaria meleagris Allium christophii Tulipa spp. and hybrids Daffodil Hardy Amaryllis Peruvian Daffodil Turkestan Onion Narcissus spp. and hybrids Lycoris squamigera Hymenocallis narcissiflora Allium karataviense Dahlia Hardy Begonia Poppy-flowered Anemone Wild Hyacinth Dahlia hybrids Begonia grandis Anemone coronaria Camassia scilloides Danford Iris Hyacinth Resurrection Lily Winter Aconite Iris danfordiae Hyacinthus orientalis Lycoris squamigera Eranthis hyemalis Dogtooth Violet Jonquil Siberian Squill Wood Hyacinth Erythronium dens-canis Narcissus spp. and hybrids Scilla siberica Hyacinthoides hispanicus Dutch Hyacinth Lebanon Squill Snowdrop Wood Sorrel Hyacinthus orientalis Puschkinia scilloides Galanthus nivalis Oxalis spp. Dutch Iris Lily Spanish Bluebell Yellow Adder s Tongue Iris hybrids Lilium spp. and hybrids Hyacinthoides hispanicus Erythronium americanum Elephant Ear Lily Leek Spider Lily Colocasia esculenta Allium moly Hymenocallis narcissiflora Fancy-leaved Caladium Lily-of-the-Field Spring Starflower Caladium x hortulanum Sternbergia lutea Ipheion uniflorum *spp = Multiple species Figure 1. Planting Depth Chart for Some Commonly Planted Bulbs. Page 4 of 12 Purdue University Cooperative Extension Service Revised 6/01

5 Table 1. Bulbs Suitable for Indiana Gardens. Tender 1 Height Planting 2 Distance Light, Soil, Acidanthera bicolor T creamy with summer Full sun or light shade; Very fragrant; two week (Peacock Orchid) chocolate (60-1m) (8-10) (30-45) rich, well-drained soil. bloom period; successive blotch Store corms dry at 60- plantings will extend 70 o F. season. Agapanthus orientalis T blue, white summer barely 24 Full sun to light shade. Ideal for patio plantings. (Lily-of-the-Nile) (60-90) covered (60) Best planted in large pots Use as interior plant in or boxes; water frequently. winter. Move boxes indoors for winter, and grow quite dry at o F. Allium christophii H silvery- early Full sun; average soil with Often bears 10-inch (Stars-of-Persia, violet summer (40-60) (10) (30-45) good drainage. diameter flower heads. Also sold as A. albopilosum. Allium giganteum H pink-purple early Full sun; well-drained soil. 4-inch diameter flower (Giant Onion) summer (90-1.2m) (15) (30-45) Give space to grow. heads are showy. Allium karataviense H lilac-pink late Full sun; well-drained soil. Large flower heads on (Turkestan Onion) spring (20-25) (10) (30-45) short stature plant make this an interesting pot or border plant. Allium moly H bright late Full sun to partial shade; Bears bright yellow, star (Golden Garlic, yellow spring (25-35) (8) (15-45) most soils tolerated. Vig- like 2- to 3-inch flower Lily Leek) orous, spreading habit heads. requires restraint; replant when flowering declines. Allium tuberosum H white late Full sun or light shade; Forms dense clusters of (Chinese Chive, summer (50) (8) (15-45) most soils tolerated. Will fragrant flowers; attracts Garlic Chive) self-sow unless seed heads butterflies. are removed. Anemone blanda H blue, rose, early Sun or partial shade; Blossoms remain closed (Grecian Windflower) pink, white to mid (8-15) (5) (10-15) rich, well-drained soil. at night and when cloudy; spring Soak tubers before planting. open in sunlight. Revised 6/01 Purdue University Cooperative Extension Service Page 5 of 12

6 Tender1 Height Planting2 Distance Light, Soil, Anemone coronaria T blue, spring Full sun; water regularly. Common commercially (Poppy-flowered Anemone) purple, red, (30-45) (5) (20-30) Best handled as pot crop or grown bouquet flower. pink, white set outside in late spring. Store tubers at o F. Begonia grandis H flesh-pink late Shade; rich, organic soil. Propagated by tiny bulbils (Hardy Begonia) summer (60-90) (2-5) (30) Plants are slow to begin produced in leaf axils; to frost growth in spring. often becomes effective ground cover; also sold as B. evansiana. Begonia x tuberhybrida T yellow, summer barely Partial shade; highly Pendulous forms excellent (Tuberous Begonia) orange, red, to frost (25-50) covered (30-40) organic soil. Start tubers in hanging baskets; flower pink, white indoors during February or buds drop in extreme heat. March; plant with leaves pointing toward viewer; provide even moisture. Store tubers at o F. Caladium x hortulanum T seldom flow- foliage Full sun to partial shade; Grown for foliage, not (Fancy-leaved Caladium) ers in Indi- killed (30-45) (2) (30-45) rich soil; avoid windy spots. flowers; useful in conana climate; by frost Can start indoors early; pro- tainers. variegated vide even moisture. Store green, white, tubers dry at o F. pink or red foliage Camassia scilloides H light blue, late Full sun or light shade; Bears many 1-1/4 inch (Eastern Camassia, blue-violet, spring (45-60) (10) (10) normal to very moist soil. flowers; native in Indiana. Wild Hyacinth) white American Indian name is quamash. Canna x generalis T cream, yel- early Full sun; fertile, moist Leaves may be bright (Garden Canna) low, orange, summer (45-1.8m) (8-15) (45) soil. Start growth indoors green, blue-green, or shiny pink, red, until and transplant. Store roots bronze; tolerates hot bicolors frost dry at o F. weather. Page 6 of 12 Purdue University Cooperative Extension Service Revised 6/01

7 Dahlia hybrids T all but blue mid sum Full sun; well-drained Many variations in flower (Garden Dahlia) or green mer to (30-1.8m) (5-8) (40-75) soil. Store at o F color, type, and size, borne frost in dry medium. on plants of many differing heights. Crocus spp. & hybrids H golden yel- early Full sun to partial shade; Excellent for early color. (Crocus) low, blue, spring; a (5-15) (5-10) (8-12) moist soils with good Large-flowered Dutch lavender, few species drainage. Hybrids bloom later than purple, white flower in most spring-flowering purple striped autumn types; C. sativus and C. speciosa bloom in fall, but are short-lived. Vary species and microclimates to extend bloom season. Crocosmia spp. T red, orange late Full sun; rich soil. Store Has small flowers and (Montebretia) yellow summer, (60-90) (5-8) (15-20) corms dry at o F, or stiff foliage; similar to early fall mulch heavily in ground. gladiolus. Colocasia esculenta T seldom foliage Full sun; average soil. Produces large, coarse, (Elephant Ear) flowers in killed by (90-1.8m) (5-8) (1m) Allow ample space. Store tropical looking foliage; Indiana cli- frost rhizomes dry at 59 o F. suitable for containers. mate; huge, uniformly green foliage. Colchicum autumnale H lavender- early or Full sun or partial shade; Foliage grows in spring, (Autumn Crocus) pink, rose, mid fall (10-15) (10) (15) well-drained soil. Time then dies; flowers appear white planting for mid summer in fall without foliage. or early fall. Chionodoxa luciliae H blue, pale early Full sun; well-drained For rock gardens, borders, (Glory-of-the-Snow) pink, white spring (8-15) (5-8) (8) soil. Lift & divide when edgings, drifts, and indoor over-crowded. forcing; a good companion to forsythia. Tender1 Height Planting2 Distance Light, Soil, Revised 6/01 Purdue University Cooperative Extension Service Page 7 of 12

8 Fritillaria persica H maroon- spring Full sun; well-drained Flowers have a slight (Persian Fritillary) purple (25-75) (8-10) (8-10) soil. Plant bulbs as soon skunk odor. as available. Fritallaria meleagris H checkered- spring Sun or light shade; moist Fragile appearance; makes (Checkered Lily, purple, white (20-30) (5-10) (10) soil. Plant in early fall. an interesting rock garden Guinea-hen Flower) Do not disturb; use winter plant. mulch. Fritallaria imperialis H red, yellow, spring Sun or light shade; deep, Very showy old-fashioned (Crown Imperial) orange (60-90) (15) (30-45) rich, moist soil. Plant as plant, but odor may be soon as available; use offensive. winter mulch; avoid disturbing once established. Erythronium dens-canis H rose-purple, spring Shade or partial shade; Plant in wild gardens, rock (Dogtooth Violet) violet, white (15-30) (8) (15) well-drained soil rich gardens, or wooded sites; in organic matter. mottled foliage. Erythronium americanum H yellow early Shade or partial shade; Dainty plant with deli (Yellow Adder s Tongue, spring (15-23) (8) (15) moist, well-drained soil cately scented flowers; Trout Lily) rich in organic matter. looks most natural in clumps, wild gardens, rock gardens, or woodsy sites; mottled foliage. Eremurus spp. H cream, late Full sun; moist, well- Impressive against tall (Foxtail Lily) orange, spring (1M-1.8m) (15) (45-90) drained; soil. Mulch in evergreens or at the back yellow, rose to early winter; avoid transplanting. of a perennial border. peach-pink summer Eranthis hyemalis H yellow early Sun or light shade; well- Buttercup-like flowers (Winter Aconite) spring (8-10) (5-8) (8-10) drained soil. Soak tubers bloom very early; good before planting if shriveled; rock garden plant; locate plant as soon as available. small stature plants carefully for easy viewing. Tender 1 Height Planting 2 Distance Light, Soil, Page 8 of 12 Purdue University Cooperative Extension Service Revised 6/01

9 Tender 1 Height Planting 2 Distance Light, Soil, Galanthus elwesii H white early Full sun or light shade; Good for borders and (Giant Snowdrop) spring (15-23) (5-10) (8-10) well-drained soil. Plant in rock gardens. early fall as soon as available. Do not disturb. Galanthus nivalis H white early Partial shade; wide tolerance One of the earliest spring (Common Snowdrop) spring (10-15) (5-8) (8-10) for soils. Plant as soon as bulbs for rock gardens, available. Lift and divide borders, naturalizing; only if flowering diminishes. easy to grow; increases rapidly. Galtonia candicans T greenish- mid Full sun; well-drained Best planted in groups (Summer Hyacinth) white summer (90-1.2m) (15) (40) soil. Store dry at o F, to rear of planting; useful or mulch heavily in place. as a cut flower. Gladiolus x hortulanus T all colors mid Full sun; rich soil. Plant Wide array of colors and (Garden Gladiolus) to late (30-1.5m) (10-15) (15-20) at deeper planting depth only sizes available; excellent summer with large corms. Store dry cut flowers. at o F. Hyacinthoides hispanicus H blue, pink, mid to Light shade; well-drained Effective in rock gardens, (Spanish bluebell, rose, white late spring (25-40) (5-10) (15-20) soil. massed under trees, or Wood Hyacinth) with spring blooming shrubs; also sold as Scilla campanulata. Hyacinthus orientalis H blue, pink, spring Full sun; deep, fertile, Blooms with daffodils; (Dutch Hyacinth, red, yellow, (15-40) (10-20) (15-20) well-drained, sandy loam excellent for solid beds, Common Hyacinth) salmon, soil. colorful clumps in mixed purple, borders, or indoor forcing; white mix colors sparingly. Hymenocallis narcissiflora T white mid Full sun or light shade; Produces large, fragrant (Peruvian Daffodil, summer (60) (8-12) (30-40) well-drained soil. Store at flowers; also sold as Spider Lily) at 70 o F. Ismene calathina. Ipheion uniflorum H bluish-white spring Full sun; well-drained soil. Good as edging, in the (Spring Starflower) (15-20) (5-8) (15) Requires winter mulch rock garden, or in drifts protection. between shrubs; blooms for almost a month; also sold as Triteleia uniflora. Revised 6/01 Purdue University Cooperative Extension Service Page 9 of 12

10 Muscari botryoides H blue, white early Sun or partial shade; well- Produces clusters of tiny (Grape Hyacinth) spring (15-20) (5-8) (5-8) drained soil. Leaves appear flowers. Double flowers in fall. hold color longer. Muscari armeniacum H blue early Full sun to partial shade; Multiplies rapidly; excel (Armenian Grape spring (15-20) (5-8) (5-8) well-drained soil. Foliage lent for edging or indoor Hyacinth) emerges in fall, so plant forcing; fragrant. in early fall. Lycoris squamigera H lavender- late Sun or light shade; well- Foliage dies in early (Hardy Amaryllis, pink summer (30-45) (10-12) (15-20) drained soil. summer; flowers appear in Magic Lily, August on leafless flower Resurrection Lily) stalks. Lillium spp. & hybrids H yellow, late Full sun or light shade; An excellent accent for any (Lily) orange, red, spring to (60-2.4m) (10-15) (25-45) well-drained, humusy soil. garden, with many colors, white, pink, early fall (1/2 for L. Plant in fall or early spring. heights, and bloom times. candidum) Leucojum aestivum H white with late Light shade or full sun; rich Bulbs multiply rapidly but (Summer Snowflake) green spots spring (30-45) (5-8) (8-10) to average soil. When trans- can be left undisturbed; a planting, replant promptly. reliable performer in a shady location. Iris reticulata H blue, violet- very Full sun; well-drained soil. Combines well with (Netted Iris) purple, with early (15-23) (5-8) (8) Lift and re-set every 3 or 4 snowdrops, crocuses, and yellow or spring years. winter aconites; has violet white markings scent. Iris hybrids T blue, purple late Full sun; light, sandy soil. Many cultivars available. (Dutch Iris) yellow spring (10-23) (8-10) (8) Mulch heavily in garden, or available. Blooms with store dry at o F. bearded iris. Iris dandfordiae H lemon- very Full sun; gritty, fertile Discard old bulbs and plant (Danford Iris) yellow early (10-15) (5-8) (8) well-drained soil. new ones when flowering spring decreases in 3-4 years. Tender1 Height Planting2 Distance Light, Soil, Page 10 of 12 Purdue University Cooperative Extension Service Revised 6/01

11 Scilla siberica H blue, white early Full sun or partial shade; Blue color combines well (Siberian Squill) spring (10-15) (5-8) (5-8) well-drained soil. Plant with yellow daffodils; use in early fall. in rock gardens or naturalized. Puschkinia scilloides H blue stripes early Full sun or partial shade; Unusual color; multiplies (Lebanon Squill) on white spring (15) (5-8) (5-8) well-drained soil. Do not readily; useful for rock background, disturb unless flowering gardens, naturalizing, and white diminishes. for pot culture; also sold as P. libanotica. Polianthes tuberosa T white late Full sun. Start indoors or Very fragrant; requires (Tuberose) summer, (40-75) (5-8) (15-20) after frost outdoors. Store long growing season; fall dry at 60 o F. make successive plantings to extend bloom period. Oxalis spp. T yellow, pink, late spring Full sun or light shade; Attractive rock garden, (Wood Sorrel) red, lilac, to mid (10-20) (5-8) (10) rich, well-drained soil. May greenhouse, or indoor white summer be started early indoors. plant; quick to bloom; Store bulbs dry at 60 o F. clover-like leaves are decorative. Ornithogalum umbellatum H white, outside spring Partial shade or full sun; Naturalizes easily in (Star-of-Bethlehem) of petals green (25-30) (5-8) (8-10) wide soil tolerance. meadows; spreading seedstriped lings often become weeds. Ornithogalum nutans H silvery-white, spring Light shade or full sun; May naturalize in protected (Nodding Star-of- outside of (23-30) (5-8) (8-10) well-drained soil; mulch locations. Bethlehem) petals gray- for winter protection. green. Narcissus spp. & hybrids H yellow, early to Full sun or light shade; Use in borders, shrub beds, (Daffodil, Jonquil, white, pink; mid spring (8-35) (10-15) (8-20) well-drained soil. Lift and or naturalized; good for cut Narcissus) cups yellow, divide when flowering flowers; reliable; clumps white, pink, diminishes. increase in size each year. orange, or nearly red Tender1 Height Planting2 Distance Light, Soil, Revised 6/01 Purdue University Cooperative Extension Service Page 11 of 12

12 Tender1 Height Planting2 Distance Light, Soil, Scilla tubergeniana H silvery- early Full sun or partial shade; Abundant flowers; blooms (Tubergen Squill) white spring (10-15) (5-8) (5-8) well-drained soil. Plant in with early crocuses. early fall. Sternbergia lutea H yellow early Full sun; well-drained Foliage appears after (Lily-of-the-Field) fall (15-30) (10) (15-20) soil. Mulch heavily for flowers in fall and persists winter protection. until spring. Tigridia pavonia T yellow, summer Full sun; light, well- Each bloom lasts only one (Tiger Flower, orange, red, (45-75) (8-10) (10-20) drained soil. Plant in late day, but stalks bear Mexican Shell Flower) white spring. Store dry at 50 F, several flowers; make or mulch heavily in garden. successive plantings to extend bloom period. Tulipa spp. & hybrids H all colors spring Full sun; well-drained Great variety of colors, (Tulip) except true (8-75) (10-25) (10-20) soil. shapes and blooming blue times for all uses; may use annuals to cover ground above bulbs in summer. Zantedeschia aethiopica T white spring, Full sun or partial shade; Often best handled as pot (Calla Lily, Arum Lily) early (60-90) (8-10) (30-60) rich, moist soil. Water and plant since bulbs stored summer fertilize regularly. Start out of the soil can dry out. indoors to achieve bloom. Store dry in or out of pot at F. 1 For definitions of hardy and tender bulbs, see text. 2 Depth indicated is to shoulder (top) of bulb. *Previously authored by Ruth Kvaalen and Michael N. Dana, with Donald Schuder and Robert Corrigan, Entomology, and Paul Pecknold, Botany and Plant Pathology. For more information on the subject discussed in this publication, consult your local office of the Purdue University Cooperative Extension Service. It is the policy of the Purdue University Cooperative Extension Service, David C. Petritz, Director, that all persons shall have equal opportunity and access to programs and facilities without regard to race, color, sex, religion, national origin, age, marital status, parental status, sexual orientation, or disability. Purdue University is an Affirmative Action employer. This material may be available in alternative formats. Page 12 of 12 Purdue University Cooperative Extension Service Revised 6/01