Sofia Shirt Dress. Newborn to 12 years

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1 Sofia Shirt Dress Newborn to 12 years

2 What s Inside Getting Started 4 Printing Your Pattern 5 Settings 5 How to Print Only the Size You Need (Using Layers) 7 Printing the Instructions 7 Sofia Shirt Dress 8 Size Chart 9 Finished Garment Measurements 9 Materials & Tools 11 Cutting Instructions 13 Quick-Glance Cheat Sheet 15 Sewing Instructions 16 Preparation 16 STEP 1 Back Inverted Box Pleat 18 STEP 2 Attach Back Yoke 19 STEP 3 Shoulder Seams 21 STEP 4 Attach Sleeves 23 STEP 5 OPTIONAL Sleeveless 25 STEP 6 Side Seams 28 STEP 7 OPTIONAL ¾ Sleeve 29 STEP 8 Long Sleeve Slit 30 STEP 9 Long Sleeve Pleat 34 STEP 10 Long Sleeve Cuffs 35 STEP 11 Skirt Panels 38 STEP 12 Attach Skirt 40 STEP 13 Front Placket 41 STEP 14 Collar 42 STEP 15 Hem 44 STEP 16 Buttons and Buttonholes 45 STEP 17 OPTIONAL Belt Loops (for Childs sizes only) 46 STEP 18 OPTIONAL Belt (for Childs sizes only) 47 Pattern Pieces 50

3 Website rebecca-page.com Facebook Page facebook.com/rebeccapageofficial Facebook Group facebook.com/groups/mummykinsandme Instagram instagram.com/rebeccajpage #rebeccajpage Pinterest pinterest.com/rebeccajpage Twitter twitter.com/rebecca_page Newsletter rebecca-page.com/newsletter Youtube youtube.com/user/rebeccapage1 Product Sales & Licensing Information This pattern is copyrighted 2018 to Rebecca Page by rebecca-page.com. Please feel free to make garments from this pattern to sell. If you do, we d love you to include a credit to rebecca-page.com as the pattern designer, but it s up to you. The finished product may only be sold by crafters. It may not be mass produced. You can only sell the finished product; you cannot sell the pattern or these instructions. Best of luck and happy sewing!

4 Getting Started Need help? Have a question? Join our Facebook Group at You can get help, ask questions, share your tips and shortcuts and share your creations! We re a friendly bunch and we love helping out and seeing what you ve made. Before you get started Please read the full instructions before getting started. Make sure to wash, dry and press your fabric before you cut out your pattern pieces. Fabric can often shrink by significant amounts on the first wash. To avoid your beautiful creation ending up an inch too small or twisted out of shape, pre-wash the fabric now before you get started. It might be a pain if you just want to start straight away, but a bit of prep now means your garment will stay the same size you made it. Never leave a child or baby unattended in a garment made from one of our patterns with ties, snaps, buttons or anything they could remove, choke on or get caught on. Never let them sleep in garments with ties on and use caution if you are at all unsure. We love our patterns, but we love your bundles of joy more! Copyright 2018 R EBECCA PAGE by rebecca-page.com Page 4

5 Printing Your Pattern Settings The pattern is printed at the back of this booklet. It is designed to be printed on US letter paper at 100%. If you wish to print on A4, please download the A4 size version. Make sure that the fit to page option is not checked on your printer options. On the first page, you will find a 1-inch square test box. Print this page first on its own and check the measurements of the square. Once you are happy that the test box is accurate, you can print the rest of the pattern pages. This is a no-trim pattern which means you don t need to trim the edges off around the rectangles unless you wish to. Once you ve printed your pattern, tape the rectangles together using the diagram here for reference, overlapping the circles in each corner. Each page is marked in the bottom left corner. The numbers go across; the letters go downwards. The first row of pages will be A1, A2, A3 and so on. The row below that B1, B2, B3 and so on. The sizes are differentiated by both different line styles, and different colors. It is up to you whether you wish to print in color, or in black and white. Copyright 2018 R EBECCA PAGE by rebecca-page.com Page 5

6 Pages to print Childs Us Letter Length Option Length Option ¾ Long Knee Length Skirt Midi Length Skirt Maxi Length Skirt Option Option 0 3 mos 50-51, 54-55, , 53-55, , 54-55, , , mos 50-51, 54-55, , , 54-55, , , mos 50-51, 54-55, 57, , , 53-55, , mos 50-51, 54-55, 57-58, 55-56, , , mos 55-56, , 54-55, , , yrs 69-79, 81-85, 90-92, 69-86, 90-92, , 90-92, , , , , , 100, , , , , , , , yrs 69-79, 81-85, 90-92, 69-87, 90-92, , 90-92, , , , , , 100, , , , , , , , yrs 69-79, 81-85, 90-93, 69-87, 90-93, , , , , , , 100, , 108, 106, 108, , , , 108, , , yrs 69-88, 90-93, , 90-93, , , , 100, , , , , 108, , , 108, , , , yrs 69-86, 90-93, , 69-88, 90-93, , , , , , 108, , , 108, , , 116, , , yrs 69-87, 90-93, , , , 69-93, , , , , , , , 115, Print at 100% (no scale), in black and white or color Copyright 2018 R EBECCA PAGE by rebecca-page.com Page 6

7 How to Print Only the Size You Need (Using Layers) This pattern uses layers so you can print only the sizes you want. Open the pattern in Adobe Reader (not your internet browser). Click on the layers button on the very left of the screen. Unselect all sizes except the size you want. Leave the Common Elements and Splitting Layer on. Then print! NOTE In this example only size months would print. Printing the Instructions The instructions are designed for everyone from beginner upwards, so there are a LOT of pictures throughout the instructions. For this reason, some people do not print these in full (however you can if you wish!). If however, you want to print a one page quick-glance cheat sheet (no photos, intermediate / advanced level instructions), you will find this on page 13. Copyright 2018 R EBECCA PAGE by rebecca-page.com Page 7

8 Sofia Shirt Dress Difficulty Level = Advanced Beginner / Intermediate The Sofia is your new staple shirt dress pattern! Sleeve options are sleeveless, 3/4 or long sleeves. Length options are knee, midi or maxi skirt lengths. Plus, there s an optional belt. The ladies pattern is cut with 7 skirt panels for maximum fullness and wow-impact and has a traditional 2-part collar, plus darts on the bodice for shaping. The child s and dolls versions are cut with 3 skirt panels, and an easy one-piece collar. Copyright 2018 R EBECCA PAGE by rebecca-page.com Page 8

9 Size Chart This pattern has been designed to fit the following sizes: Childs Size Chart Height Chest Waist Inches CM Inches CM Inches CM 0 3 mos mos mos mos mos yrs yrs yrs yrs yrs yrs Finished Garment Measurements Childs Finished Garment Measurements (inches) Chest Waist Neck Skirt Length Belt (from waist to hem) Length Sleeve Length (from top of sleeve to bottom of hem/cuff) Knee Midi Maxi ¾ Long (incl cuff) 0 3 mos n/a mos n/a mos n/a mos n/a mos n/a yrs yrs yrs yrs yrs yrs * All measurements in inches ** Make sure to wash, dry and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink. Fitting Notes: Sizing Sizing is different in different countries and stores, so please measure your model before picking your size. The ready-to-wear size your model normally fits into may be different from our size chart. Picking your size When picking your size, if you fall between sizes, go for the size with the correct chest measurement. That way the shoulders, arms and upper back are likely to fit well. If your child falls into Copyright 2018 R EBECCA PAGE by rebecca-page.com Page 9

10 a different size for height, use the bodice length and skirt length for that height size bracket, keeping to the size your child best fits into for chest measurements. Blend the 2 patterns together so the chest, armhole, shoulders and across back, work with the torso and skirt length. Make sure to check waist measurements, and either grade out or in at this point, making the same adjustments to the top of the skirt. The skirt is extremely full so no need to grade at the hips if you have a different hip size. Length The knee and midi length cutting lines on the skirt have been tested to be approximately accurate for the tallest child, within each size bracket, as per the size chart. If you d prefer to know exactly how long you want your skirt before cutting into your fabric, please make a muslin as below and mark your preferred length on your pattern piece, plus a 1-inch hem allowance. Grading Our child s patterns have been graded to work proportionally with a growing child. However, every child is different, so please use the chest measurements your child best sits in to select the size pattern. This will give a better upper body fit. Please use pattern lengths for the height size they fall into. Muslin A muslin is a test version of the pattern in an inexpensive fabric. A woven fitted dress can be a bit of an art but once you perfect how to fit it for your body type and shape, it s such a wonderful addition to your wardrobe! Make sure to check the fabric recommendations and still use a fabric with the same properties as your final one. No need to finish your seams beautifully, just stitch the front bust, back bust, yoke, sleeve and skirt pieces together and try on, pinning or clipping together at the center front. The goal is to check and make any personal fit adjustments to the top and waist area. Cut your skirt pieces to the midi cutting line or shorter to save fabric. If you get stuck with fitting, see our favorite resources at Copyright 2018 R EBECCA PAGE by rebecca-page.com Page 10

11 Materials & Tools Fabric You can use nearly any light or medium weight woven fabric for this dress. However, your fabric choice will be critical in how the garment fits and moves so please choose with the end look you are wanting in mind: A light weight woven such as a chiffon, taffeta, organza, or georgette will be billowy and floaty looking, and may be see-through (or require a slip underneath for coverage). A light to mid weight woven such as a silk, rayon, silk crepe, crepe de chine or silk satin will drape and swish about the legs as you move more. A woven with structure such as a linen, poly cotton or quilting cotton won t drape or follow the contours of the body much, so it will give a boxier look. The skirt with this type of fabric won t drape much and will stick out more. Fabric Requirements (45 inch / 115cm wide fabric) in YARDS Sleeveless Option ¾ Sleeve Option Long Sleeve Option Knee Length Skirt Midi Length Skirt Maxi Length Skirt Knee Length Skirt Midi Length Skirt Maxi Length Skirt Knee Length Skirt Midi Length Skirt Maxi Length Skirt 0 3 mos mos mos mos yrs yrs yrs yrs yrs yrs Knee Length Skirt Fabric Requirements (60 inch / 150cm wide fabric) in YARDS Sleeveless Option ¾ Sleeve Option Long Sleeve Option Midi Length Skirt Maxi Length Skirt Knee Length Skirt Midi Length Skirt Maxi Length Skirt Knee Length Skirt Midi Length Skirt Maxi Length Skirt 0 3 mos mos mos mos mos yrs yrs yrs yrs yrs yrs * If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print or a fabric with nap you may need more. Copyright 2018 R EBECCA PAGE by rebecca-page.com Page 11

12 You will also need: Front fastenings Buttons or snaps (maximum 1cm / ½ inch wide) Knee Midi Maxi 0 3 mos mos mos mos mos yrs If doing the Long sleeve option, add x2 more for all sizes. Interfacing You will need iron on interfacing for the lining of your collar, cuff, bodice and skirt facing pieces. Approximately 1 yard will be sufficient for all child s sizes. For medium weight woven fabrics, a light weight interfacing is best. However, for light weight woven fabric, use a heavier interfacing to give the collar more structure/stiffness. 1-inch Belt buckle for the optional belt. Optional bias tape You will need double fold bias tape that is ¼ inch wide when finished. Or you can buy/make ½ inch wide single fold bias tape and fold in half down its center line. Approximately 1 1 ½ yards will be sufficient. Thread to match Tools needed are sewing machine, pins, tailors chalk/fabric pen, loop turner, scissors, tape measure or ruler. A serger/overlocker is optional but not required. Copyright 2018 R EBECCA PAGE by rebecca-page.com Page 12

13 Cutting Instructions Cut each of the pieces according to the directions on the pattern piece. Seam allowances are all included so just cut them as is. When cutting your skirt pieces, cut them each to the knee, midi or maxi length cutting lines depending on the length you are doing. When cutting your front bodice and back bodice pieces: for the Long Sleeve option, cut using the lower armhole lines; for the Sleeveless option, cut using the higher armhole lines. Cutting Charts All pattern pieces are included, however if you prefer to cut using a cutting chart, the dimensions for the rectangular pieces are below: Skirt Facing (cut 2) Childs Cutting Chart (inches) Cuff (fabric cut 2, interfacing cut 2) Sleeve slit (cut 2) Belt (cut 1) Belt Loops (cut 2) Length Width Length Width Length Width Length Width Length Width Knee Midi Maxi 0 3 mos N/A N/A N/A N/A 3 6 mos N/A N/A N/A N/A 6 12 mos N/A N/A N/A N/A mos N/A N/A N/A N/A mos N/A N/A N/A N/A 2 3 yrs yrs yrs yrs yrs yrs NOTE There are no belt or belt loop pieces for the 0-24 month sizes due to safety. Childs Cutting Checklist: Front Bodice Fabric cut 2 (1x mirror image pair) Bodice Facing Interfacing cut 2 (1x mirror image pair) Back Bodice Fabric cut 1 Back Neck Yoke Fabric cut 2 Front Skirt Fabric cut 2 (1x mirror image pair) Back Skirt Fabric cut 2 (1x mirror image pair) (Dolls Fabric cut 1) Skirt Facing Interfacing cut 2 Copyright 2018 R EBECCA PAGE by rebecca-page.com Page 13

14 Collar Fabric cut 2 Collar Facing Interfacing cut 1 OPTIONAL Sleeve Fabric cut 2 (1x mirror image pair) OPTIONAL Sleeve Slit (for long sleeve version) Fabric cut 2 OPTIONAL Cuff Fabric cut 4, interfacing cut 2 OPTIONAL Belt Fabric cut 1 on fold OPTIONAL Belt Loops Fabric cut 2 NOTE To cut fabric on the fold, fold your fabric in half. Align the pattern piece so it is on the fold of the fabric. Cut around the edges, leaving the fold. If you have folded your fabric correctly the fold will be parallel to the two edges of the fabric that are finished. The raw edges (e.g. the ones you could pick at and threads would come off) will be at a right angle to your fold. Copyright 2018 R EBECCA PAGE by rebecca-page.com Page 14

15 Quick-Glance Cheat Sheet (full step-by-step tutorial starts on next page) ½ inch seam allowance included (¼ then ¼ for French seams) - Top stitching ⅛ inch Basting ¼ inch Preparation 1. Markings Transfer markings pieces to your all pieces. 2. Interfacing Iron interfacing on to the upper, under collar and cuff pieces. 3. Optional Bias Tape If not using store bought bias tape, make your own. 4. Stay Stitching Stay stitch the front bodice neckline and back center piece, working from the center to the outer edges. Sewing 1. Back Inverted Box Pleat Baste the back pleats or stitch the pleats in place just inside the seam allowance. Press. 2. Attach Back Yoke Lay one yoke piece onto the back bodice, right sides together and pin using the ½ inch seam line. Flip these pieces over and pin the second yoke piece. Sew all three pieces together. Trim the seam allowance in half and flip both yoke pieces up. Press both yoke pieces away from back bodice. 3. Shoulder Seams Pin your front bodice pieces onto the shoulders, leaving out the outer edge back yoke piece. Roll the bodice pieces together. Flip the outer yoke on top and pin at shoulders. Pin the second yoke piece and sew. Trim seam allowances. Pull your bodice pieces out. Press. 4. Attach Sleeves Attach and sew the sleeves using the flat fell method. 5. OPTIONAL Sleeveless Attach bias tape to armholes. Trim off the binding excess. 6. Side Seams Use a French seam to stitch the side seam from the sleeve edge, or underarm seam, to waist. Press. 7. OPTIONAL ¾ Sleeve Turn the bottom edge of your sleeve ¼ inch. Stitch and press. Turn again and topstitch. Skip to step Long Sleeve Slit Draw a box around your marking and cut the slits. Sew the sleeve slit piece onto the sleeves. Cut excess fabric off. Straighten out the sleeve slit pieces and trim seam allowance. Press, understitch, fold and sew the slit pieces. Press. Press the top of the slit into a point and top stitch. 9. Long Sleeve Pleat Baste each sleeve pleat. 10. Long Sleeve Cuffs Fold lining pieces ½ inch to the wrong side of the bottom edge. Press. Sew lining cuffs and outer cuffs. Pin your outer cuffs to the sleeve edges keeping your cuff linings out of the way. Sew cuffs to sleeves. Press. Sew short edges of cuff outers to cuff linings. Trim seam allowance and turn the cuff collar. Press. Topstitch around all four edges of your cuff. Sew buttonholes and attach buttons. 11. Skirt Panels Use a French seam to attach skirt panels, leaving only the center front open. 12. Attach Skirt Stitch the skirt to the bodice, using a French seam. 13. Front Placket Fold front edges to the wrong side ¼ inch. Press and fold again. Press and topstitch. 14. Collar Press the bottom edge of the interfaced collar piece ½ inch up. Sew collar pieces together. Trim the seam allowance. Turn right side out and press. Pin and sew collar to dress. Press seam allowance up and topstitch. 15. Hem Press bottom edge of skirt up ½ inch. Press ½ inch again. Edgestitch. 16. Buttons and Buttonholes Sew buttonholes and attach buttons to the front placket. 17. OPTIONAL Belt Loops Use the double fold bias tape to sew and attach belt loops. 18. OPTIONAL Belt Fold belt in half and sew along the long edge and one short edge. Trim seam allowance and turn right sides out. Press. Slide your buckle on. Loop the belt over and sew in place. Stitch to secure belt buckle. Copyright 2018 R EBECCA PAGE by rebecca-page.com Page 15

16 Sewing Instructions ½ inch seam allowance included (¼ then ¼ for French seams) - Top stitching ⅛ inch Basting ¼ inch Preparation Transfer pattern markings Transfer all pattern markings from the pattern pieces to your fabric. For Maxi length skirts, transfer all buttonhole markings. For Midi and Knee length skirts, skip the last buttonhole marking on the skirt (the buttons should not go all the way to the hem but stop just before it). Mark button placement using the center point of each buttonhole. Interfacing Using the manufacturer s instructions, apply interfacing to the following pieces: Collar x1 Cuff x2 Bodice facing to be applied to the front edges of the front bodice x2* Skirt facing to be applied to the front edges of the center front skirt pieces x2* TIP Trim half the seam allowance (¼ inch) off the interfacing pieces before ironing it on. This reduces bulk in the seam allowance and allows the garment to sit flat. For best results, the interfacing should be placed on each facing piece and begin ironing from the center to the outside of the yoke to avoid wrinkles. I suggest you do a test patch on a spare piece of fabric first. Optional Bias Binding If you are following the sewing machine option and doing the sleeveless version, you will need bias tape to bind the armhole in step 5. SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION You do not need bias tape. REGULAR SEWING MACHING OPTION If you have purchased ready-made bias tape, check it is 1 inch wide when completely unfolded. If you made your own bias tape by cutting strips on the diagonal, we are going to fold and press as if we were making single fold bias tape (don t worry if you don t know what that is, just follow these instructions). - Fold one bias strip in half lengthwise with wrong sides together. Press well. - Open the central fold back out and fold each long raw edge into the middle of the fold so that the long raw edges are all hidden. Press. - You now have ½ inch single folded bias tape. The raw edges should be folded into the middle. If you get stuck, download our free bias tape tutorial from here and follow the instructions for single fold bias tape. Copyright 2018 R EBECCA PAGE by rebecca-page.com Page 16

17 NOTE You can also use narrower bias tape. This will give a very professional finish; however, it will also be quite fiddly to attach. The narrowest bias tape I would recommend would be ½ inch when unfolded (¼ inch when single folded). Stay Stitching We are going to be stay stitching the neckline to help prevent it from stretching out while we are working with the cut pieces. NOTE Staystitching is a permanent line of stitches around curves to prevent them from stretching while manipulating, sewing, or even wearing the garment. If you don t do it, the neckline is likely to stretch and then the collar won t fit properly when you try to stitch it on. Doing directional stay stitching like this (e.g. stitching in the direction of the arrows) helps preserve the grainline and stops the fabric twisting about while we are sewing the rest of the garment, before we get the collar on. Staystitch the front necklines, using a regular length straight stitch, in the direction of the arrows. It won t be removed later so make sure to stay just inside the ½ inch seam allowance. Staystitch the back neckline in the direction of the arrows. Copyright 2018 R EBECCA PAGE by rebecca-page.com Page 17

18 STEP 1 Back Inverted Box Pleat 1.1 Fold back bodice right sides together, lining up the transferred markings of the box pleat. Stick a pin straight down from the top edge of the fabric, through the markings. Finger press the pleat flat along this fold, to give a nice crease in the center of the pleat. 1.2 With wrong side facing up, open your back bodice and flatten the pleat, aligning the crease you made in the last step with your pin. This will center your inverted box pleat along the back bodice. Add additional pins on either side of the original pin, to secure the pleat in place. 1.3 Baste your box pleat with ¼ inch seam allowance. NOTE A basting stitch is a long straight stitch used to hold something in place temporarily. This will be replaced in the next step when we attach the back yoke. TIP If your machine does not have a basting stitch option, set it to the longest straight stitch you can. There is no need to backstitch at the start or end of this stitch line, as it is temporary. 1.4 With right sides facing up, press your box pleat flat. TIP You can also press about an inch down your pleat, for a nice crisp pleat. This will also help when you attach your yoke in the next step. Copyright 2018 R EBECCA PAGE by rebecca-page.com Page 18

19 STEP 2 Attach Back Yoke 2.1 Fold each of the back yoke pieces, wrong sides together, and place a pin in the center of the straight bottom edge (not the neck edge). TIP Place a pin in the center of the inverted box pleat on your back bodice piece. This will help align the back yoke center to the center of the back bodice piece. 2.2 Lay one yoke piece onto the back bodice, right sides together, matching center marks. Pin the rest of this yoke to your back bodice using the ½ inch seam line, not the raw edge. 2.3 Flip these pieces over, so the back bodice is wrong side up. Lay your second yoke, right side facing down, on top of this, matching the centers. Using the ½ inch seam line again, pin the rest of this yoke along the top edge. You are creating a sandwich that consists of yoke facing up, back bodice facing down, then yoke facing down. Copyright 2018 R EBECCA PAGE by rebecca-page.com Page 19

20 2.4 Sew along this edge, through all three pieces, with a ½ inch seam allowance. Trim the seam allowance in half and flip both yoke pieces up. Press both yoke pieces away from back bodice. OPTIONAL Topstitch ⅛ inch along bottom edge of yoke. Copyright 2018 R EBECCA PAGE by rebecca-page.com Page 20

21 STEP 3 Shoulder Seams 3.1 Lay your front pieces, checking correct front bodice piece is on the correct shoulder, onto the back piece, right sides together. Pin in place leaving out the outer edge back yoke piece. We're going to enclose the shoulder seams from the inside out using the burrito method. It's called this as everything gets rolled up inside the yokes like a burrito. NOTE If you have difficulty visualizing this, skip ahead to step 3.5 and have a look at what it will look like when complete, then come back and continue. 3.2 Do not include the outer yoke in the roll - flip this piece down towards the bottom. Starting at the bottom edge of the bodice roll the front and the back shirt pieces together tightly up towards the shoulder seams. Ensure the shirt is rolled tightly enough that you can flip the outer yoke on top and match up the shoulder seams. Pin into place. Pin along each shoulder edge. 3.3 Bring the second yoke piece to the back, around the rolled bodice pieces, align and pin to the previously pinned pieces at the shoulder seams. Copyright 2018 R EBECCA PAGE by rebecca-page.com Page 21

22 3.4 Sew both shoulder seams with ½ inch seam allowance. Trim seam allowances in half. 3.5 Pull your bodice pieces out through one side, or through the neck of your yoke. Go slowly and gently, so you don t stretch out any cut fabric edges. Press your shoulder seams. Copyright 2018 R EBECCA PAGE by rebecca-page.com Page 22

23 STEP 4 Attach Sleeves If you are doing the sleeveless option, skip to step 5. Otherwise follow below for the ¾ or long sleeve option. 4.1 With right sides together match the sleeve heads at the ends of the armscye and at the marked notch. NOTE The front and back of the sleeve is labeled on your pattern piece. Be sure to align the correct sleeve on each side of your bodice. 4.2 Ease the sleeve in at the ½ inch seam, not the raw edges. Even though the seam allowance won t lay flat, it means where you sew the fabric will. Stitch the sleeve with ½ inch seam allowance. 4.3 We are going to finish the armhole using the flat fell method. Trim the bodice seam allowance in half. Do not trim the sleeve seam allowance. Copyright 2018 R EBECCA PAGE by rebecca-page.com Page 23

24 4.4 Then using the very tip of your scissors make little snips into the cut bodice seam allowance. Do not snip past the stitching line or you will make a hole. Snip just inside the seam allowance. This will help the seam sit flatter. Do not snip the sleeve seam allowance. 4.5 Press the armhole seam allowance towards the bodice. Fold the raw edge of the armhole seam allowance in half towards the bodice seam allowance. Tuck this folded edge under the shorter blouse seam allowance. Press up towards the bodice and pin. Copyright 2018 R EBECCA PAGE by rebecca-page.com Page 24

25 4.6 Stitch close to the folded edge all the way around the armhole, keeping approximately the same distance from the seam all the way around. This becomes your top stitching around the armhole when you look at it from the right side of the blouse. Repeat steps for the other sleeve. Skip to step 6. STEP 5 OPTIONAL Sleeveless If you are doing the ¾ sleeve option, skip to step 7. If you are doing the long sleeve option, skip to step 8. Otherwise follow below for the sleeveless option. SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION Serge the raw edge of the armhole. Turn the serged edge under ¼ inch toward the wrong side of the fabric. Top stitch. Then skip to step 6. REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION Follow the steps below: 5.1 Open the single fold bias tape and pin it along the armhole, right sides together, aligning raw edges. Stitch along the first fold about ¼ inch from the raw edge. Copyright 2018 R EBECCA PAGE by rebecca-page.com Page 25

26 5.2 Trim the seam allowance in half (⅛ inch). Using the very tip of your scissors, make little snips into the seam allowance every ½ inch. Go slowly and make sure you don t cut into your stitches or you ll end up with a hole! 5.3 Press the bias binding and the seam allowance up, away from the armhole. Copyright 2018 R EBECCA PAGE by rebecca-page.com Page 26

27 5.4 Understitch the seam allowance to the bias binding ⅛ inch from the edge or as close as you can. NOTE Understitching is when you stitch the seam allowance to the bias binding. This helps your bias tape stay rolled to the inside, so you can t see it and makes the armhole edges crisp. 5.5 Fold the bias all the way to the wrong side, over the seam allowance and pin the folded edge of your binding just under your stitching line, enclosing all raw edges. NOTE The finished bias facing will be ¼ inch wide and won t be seen from the right side. 5.6 Edgestitch the bias to the armhole about ⅛ inch from the edge of the bias tape. Trim off the binding excess. Copyright 2018 R EBECCA PAGE by rebecca-page.com Page 27

28 STEP 6 Side Seams NOTE This step is the same for all sleeve options (sleeveless, ¾ or long). With the sleeve option you will be stitching down the sleeve and side seam. With the sleeveless option, you will just be stitching down the side seam. SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION If you are using a serger, stitch your side seams with ½ inch seam allowance, then serge to finish the fabric edges. For sleeveless, be sure to tack down your serger tails for a clean finish at the underarm. Then skip to step 7 for ¾ sleeves, step 8 for long sleeves, or step 11 for sleeveless. NO SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION Follow the steps below: 6.1 We will be using a French seam to enclose all raw edges and have beautiful finishing on the inside of our dress. If you have never done a French seam, don t worry, we ll have all the steps included here. Wrong sides together, align side seams, from sleeve raw edge, or underarm seam if sewing the sleeveless version, down through the bodice to the waist edge. Make sure to match underarm seams and pin. Using ¼ inch seam allowance stitch the side seam from the sleeve edge, or underarm seam, to waist. 6.2 Carefully trim the seam allowance in half so the raw edge is clean and doesn t have any uneven threads. NOTE You are trimming here so that when you encase the seam in the next step, all the threads and raw edges are hidden. I generally try to trim my seam allowance in half, as I like to make sure absolutely nothing is sticking out. However, just neatening up the edge here will also work. Copyright 2018 R EBECCA PAGE by rebecca-page.com Page 28

29 6.3 Turn the garment so the right sides are facing and press the side seam. Make sure your previous seam line is as centered as possible along the fold. TIP Press the seam allowances to the side before turning the garment inside out. This makes it much easier to pinch the seam flat and get a nice crisp edge to your French seam. It also makes the seam allowance sit flat and stay as accurate as possible. Pin and stitch approximately ¼ inch from the edge. This will encase the raw edges, so you can t see them (a French seam). Press the seam allowance toward the front of the sleeve and bodice. Repeat steps 6.1 to 6.3 for your other side seam. TIP If you are doing a sleeveless dress, now is a good time for you to try your bodice on to check the armscye for gaping. Slip it on and hold the front overlapped. If you find your armscye gapes a smidge more than you like under the arm, you can remove the stitches you just sewed and sew a bit further from the folded edge, about ½ inch instead of ¼ inch. STEP 7 OPTIONAL ¾ Sleeve If you are doing the sleeveless option, skip to step 11. If you are doing the long sleeve option, skip to step 8. SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION If you are using a serger, serge the bottom edge of your sleeve. Do not remove any fabric. Turn up ½ inch and topstitch. Then continue to step 11. NO SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION Follow the steps below: 7.1 With your garment turned inside out, turn the bottom edge of your sleeve ¼ inch up. Stitch and press. Turn another ¼ inch to the inside of your sleeve and press. Copyright 2018 R EBECCA PAGE by rebecca-page.com Page 29

30 7.2 Topstitch ⅛ inch from the top of the folded. Repeat steps 7.1 to 7.2 for the other sleeve. Skip to step 11. STEP 8 Long Sleeve Slit If you are doing the long sleeve option, you will need to complete this step. If you are doing the sleeveless or ¾ sleeve option, skip to step With sleeve facing wrong side up, use the transferred line you marked earlier and draw a box ⅜ inch around your marking. NOTE This is the red line shown to the left. The yellow line is the marking you made in the preparation steps. These lines will be our stitch lines in steps 8.3 and 8.4. NOTE There is a left and right sleeve, so the marking will be on the opposite side for each sleeve. Copyright 2018 R EBECCA PAGE by rebecca-page.com Page 30

31 8.2 Cut up your slit marking (shown in yellow in step 8.1) stopping ½ inch before you reach the top of the box. Then carefully snip from the top of your cut slit towards each corner. Do not go beyond the corner, just as close to it as you can. 8.3 We are now going to stitch the sleeve slit to the sleeve, using the stitch lines you drew. It will go up one side of the slit, across the top and back down the other side. If you have difficulty visualizing this, skip ahead to step 8.5 and have a look at what it will look like when complete, then come back and continue. Place the sleeve slit piece facing right sides together with the sleeve. The raw edge of one side of the sleeve slit piece should match up with the cut you made along the sleeve slit marking. From the wrong side of the sleeve, stitch along the first straight stitching line (where your markings are shown in red in step 8.1). When you get to the end, lower your needle down, ready to turn. 8.4 Keeping your needle down, lift your presser foot and turn your fabric a quarter turn (90 degrees) so it is now facing along the short stitching line you drew in step 8.1. Check that the sleeve fabric is still matching up against the raw edge of the sleeve slit. The point created by the two cuts at the top of the slit marking should match up with the raw edge of the sleeve slit piece. Lower the presser foot and stitch along the short straight stitching line to the end of your marking. With your needle down, lift your presser foot, ready to turn your fabric. Copyright 2018 R EBECCA PAGE by rebecca-page.com Page 31

32 NOTE Your sleeve slit piece should now be stitched up one side and across the top of the slit. 8.5 Turn your fabric so the needle is now facing along the last long stitching line you drew in step 8.1. Check that the sleeve fabric is still matching up against the raw edge of the sleeve slit. Lower the presser foot and stitch along the long straight stitching line. Backstitch at the end of this seam. 8.6 Cut the excess fabric off the sleeve slit so the sleeve lines up to the sleeve slit. Copyright 2018 R EBECCA PAGE by rebecca-page.com Page 32

33 8.7 From the right side of the sleeve, straighten out the sleeve slit piece. Carefully trim the seam allowance all the way along, to about half its width. Press the sleeve slit and the seam allowance up, away from the cuff. 8.8 From the wrong side of the sleeve, press the seam allowance up towards the sleeve slit. Understitch the seam allowance to the sleeve slit ⅛ inch from the edge or as close as you can. Fold the raw edge of the sleeve slit under by ⅜ inch. Press. 8.9 Fold the sleeve slit over again, this time in half so the folded edge matches up with the seam. The raw edges should now be hidden inside. Top stitch approximately ⅛ inch from the seam to secure. TIP Use lots of pins to secure the fold. Then do your top stitching from the right side of the sleeve so that you can make sure you get a nice neat line of stitching parallel to the seam. If you find when you are finished that you haven t quite caught all of the folded edge of the sleeve slit on the wrong side in your stitching, hand stitch this down using a needle and thread. Copyright 2018 R EBECCA PAGE by rebecca-page.com Page 33

34 8.10 Place the two sides of the sleeve slit together and press the top of the slit into a point. Top stitch the point in place approximately ⅛ inch from the edge by stitching a little triangle around it. Repeat steps 8.1 to 8.10 for the other sleeve and sleeve slit. STEP 9 Long Sleeve Pleat If you are doing the long sleeve option, you will need to complete this step. If you are doing the sleeveless or ¾ sleeve option, skip to step Fold the sleeve right sides together, lining up the transferred markings of the pleat. Stick a pin straight down from the top edge of the fabric, through the markings. 9.2 With wrong side facing up, fold the sleeve back at your second pleat marking. Pin. Copyright 2018 R EBECCA PAGE by rebecca-page.com Page 34

35 9.3 Baste your pleat with ¼ inch seam allowance. Repeat steps 9.1 to 9.3 for the other sleeve. STEP 10 Long Sleeve Cuffs If you are doing the long sleeve option, you will need to complete this step. If you are doing the sleeveless or ¾ sleeve option, skip to step Place lining cuff (this piece has interfacing ironed on) wrong side facing up. Fold ½ inch to the wrong side of the bottom edge. Press Place lining cuff and outer cuff, right sides together. Match your underarm marking on the outer cuff to the folded bottom edge of the lining cuff. Pin along the top long edge. Sew the long, top edge with ½ inch seam allowance. Copyright 2018 R EBECCA PAGE by rebecca-page.com Page 35

36 10.3 Fold the cuff piece and the sleeve piece in half and pin to mark the center. Right sides together, pin your outer cuff to the sleeve edge starting at the center marked point. Your cuff should be about 1 inch longer than your sleeve edge. Let this overhang equally on each end Pin your cuff lining out of the way. Sew cuff to sleeve. Press seam toward cuff Right sides together, pin short edges of cuff outer to cuff lining, enclosing the sleeve. Sew using a ½ inch seam allowance. Make sure your sleeve doesn t get caught in these stitches Trim seam allowance and clip corners to reduce bulk. Turn the cuff collar right sides out and press. TIP Use a blunt object, like a chopstick, to push out the corners. You want crisp, sharp edges and corners. Copyright 2018 R EBECCA PAGE by rebecca-page.com Page 36

37 10.7 Topstitch ⅛ inch around all four edges of your cuff. Be sure to enclose the sleeve seam allowance into the cuff. Copyright 2018 R EBECCA PAGE by rebecca-page.com Page 37

38 10.8 Sew a buttonhole, using the markings you previously transferred. TIP - Use a seam ripper to open each buttonhole. Placing a pin across one end to stop it from going all the way through. Attach button where you previously marked. Repeat steps 10.1 to 10.8 for the other sleeve. NOTE The markings on the pattern pieces show the button hole as horizontal along the cuff. This is the traditional way to sew a buttonhole as it allows give in the sleeve, so the cuff can move slightly with you. If you d prefer a tighter fit or a cuff that does not move as much, try the cuff on to check fit and sew it vertically as per this photo with the placement you prefer. STEP 11 Skirt Panels This step is the same for all skirt lengths. NOTE You may notice that the skirt side seams are not identical lengths. The panel edge which is cut on the grainline will be slightly longer on the pattern piece than the edge that is cut on the bias. This is because the edge that is cut on the bias will grow slightly as it s stitched and will drop naturally when worn. Having this edge be slightly shorter allows for this and ensures the skirt panels look smooth and there s no baggy or puckered seams. That said, some fabric types will stretch more along the grainline than others. If you find when lining up your fabric that the skirt side seams are not the same lengths, pin or clip them together at the top (waist) edge, then hang them and pin the seam while it is hanging. Stitch as normal, taking care not to stretch the fabric as you sew to avoid puckering or bagginess along the seamline. You may find in doing this that your hemline is uneven. If it s only a small difference, after stitching your seam, lay your skirt out on a flat surface and trim to smooth the seam. If it is a large difference, leave this until the dress is complete, then hang the dress from a hanger for at least 2-3 hours so any stretching of the skirt is complete. Then trim the hemline so it is even. SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION If you are using a serger, right sides together, stitch each skirt panel to the neighboring panel. Then serge the edges to finish. Press all seams toward the back. Press the center seam to the left. Then skip to step 12. NO SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION Follow the steps below: Copyright 2018 R EBECCA PAGE by rebecca-page.com Page 38

39 11.1 We will now stitch each of your skirt panels together using a French seam, leaving only the center front open. We will be following the same steps we did for steps 6.1 to 6.3. Wrong sides together place your two back skirt panels together along the center back seam line. Stitch using ¼ inch seam allowance. Trim the seam allowance by about half. Turn so that right sides are together. Press. Stitch again at ¼ inch. Open skirt pieces and press the French seam toward the left. Repeat to use a French seam to attach each of the front skirt pieces to the back skirt at the side seam. Press the seam towards the back. Your skirt should now be fully assembled in a circle with just the skirt center front panels not stitched together. Skip to step Copyright 2018 R EBECCA PAGE by rebecca-page.com Page 39

40 STEP 12 Attach Skirt SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION If you are using a serger, right sides together, pin bodice to skirt, matching center back, sides seams, and front edges. Stitch, then serge edges to finish. Press seam toward bodice. Then skip to step 13. NO SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION Follow the steps below. Note the photos show the ladies skirt pieces, which have more panels than the child s skirt, but the assembly steps are the same As we did in step 2.1, find the center back of your bodice We will be following the same steps we did for steps 6.1 to 6.3 to stitch the skirt to the bodice, using a French seam. Place your bodice, wrong sides together, and pin your skirt to your bodice. Match center back, side seams, and both front edges. Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance. Trim the seam allowance. Turn the skirt on top of the bodice with wrong side facing up. Press and stitch again at ¼ inch. Press seam allowance up toward the bodice. Copyright 2018 R EBECCA PAGE by rebecca-page.com Page 40

41 STEP 13 Front Placket 13.1 Wrong side of the dress facing up, fold the front edge to the wrong side ¼ inch. Press. Copyright 2018 R EBECCA PAGE by rebecca-page.com Page 41

42 13.2 Fold again 0.9 of an inch in from the folded edge (0.7 inch for Dolls). Press. This will encase your raw edges. TIP There are small notches along the top and bottom edge of the front bodice piece which denote the 0.9 of an inch in to fold. If you prefer, use these markings to draw a fold line using tailors chalk or a disappearing fabric marker and continue the fold line down along the skirt Topstitch ⅛ inch close to edge. OPTIONAL Also topstitch ⅛ inch from folded edge. Repeat steps 13.1 to 13.3 for the opposite front dress piece. STEP 14 Collar 14.1 Press the bottom edge of the interfaced collar piece ½ inch to the wrong side. Align both collar pieces, right sides together, along both side edges and top edge. Sew with ½ inch seam allowance. Copyright 2018 R EBECCA PAGE by rebecca-page.com Page 42

43 14.2 Clip into the V-shape on each side of the collar. Be careful not to cut into the stitch line. Trim the seam allowance and corners by about half to reduce bulk. Turn right side out and push out your corners. Roll your seam a little to the underside, and press. TIP Use a blunt object, like a chopstick, to push out the corners. You want crisp, sharp edges and corners. OPTIONAL Topstitch ⅛ inch along finished edges of upper collar Find centers of bodice back neckline and raw edge of collar (not the folded edge of the interfaced piece) and mark with a pin. Place the collar on the right side of the dress and matching center points and ends, pin collar to back bodice. Be careful not to attach the folded collar piece. NOTE Pin along ½ inch seam line, rather than the raw edges. Sew with ½ inch seam allowance. The ½ inch seam allowance helps the collar stand up when the dress is complete. However, it can also make the fitting of the collar a little tricky with some fabrics. Most woven fabrics will stretch slightly so you can ease them on. If yours does not, make a few small snips into the seam allowance to help open it up. Take care when doing this to go no further than ½ way into the seam allowance (maximum ¼ inch), otherwise you could end up with a hole in your collar as the fabric moves while attaching it. Copyright 2018 R EBECCA PAGE by rebecca-page.com Page 43

44 14.4 Press seam allowance up, into the collar. NOTE This photo shows the ladies, which has a contrasting lower collar. Your collar will be all one piece and one fabric Topstitch ⅛ inch all the way around collar, enclosing the seam allowance of the folded edge of the collar. STEP 15 Hem SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION If you are using a serger, serge along bottom edge. Do not remove any fabric. Press 1 inch to the wrong side. Topstitch close to the edge. Then skip to step 16. NO SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION Follow the steps below: Copyright 2018 R EBECCA PAGE by rebecca-page.com Page 44

45 15.1 Press bottom edge of skirt up ½ inch to the wrong side Press folded bottom edge ½ inch to the wrong side again, to enclose raw edges Edgestitch the hem about ⅛ inch from the edge of the folded hem. STEP 16 Buttons and Buttonholes 16.1 Sew buttonholes on the front placket, using the markings you previously transferred. TIP - Use a seam ripper to open each buttonhole. Placing a pin across one end to stop it from going all the way through. NOTE There are markings provided for buttons all the way up to the neck and most of the way down the skirt. Depending on the length you ve chosen and how you wish to wear your dress, you may wish to omit the first button up at the neck and/or any of the lower buttons to allow a gap between the lowest button and the hem. Copyright 2018 R EBECCA PAGE by rebecca-page.com Page 45

46 16.2 Attach buttons to the opposite front placket, using the markings you previously transferred. TIP To make sure your buttons line up precisely, check back against your buttonholes before stitching to ensure it is going to line up. If needed, move any buttons to better line up with your buttonholes. STEP 17 OPTIONAL Belt Loops (for Childs sizes only) 17.1 If you are familiar with making double fold bias tape, we are using that technique here. If not, don t worry, just follow along here! Fold your belt loop piece in half and press Open this piece flat again and fold the raw edges into the center, meeting at the center fold made in the previous step. Press Fold in half, along your original fold line and press. Topstitch ⅛ inch on each long edge. Copyright 2018 R EBECCA PAGE by rebecca-page.com Page 46

47 17.4 Press each short end ¼ inch to the wrong side. Align belt loop onto dress, along the side seam and centered over the waist seam, with folded edges facing down. Using a narrow zig-zag stitch, sew along each short edge to attach to your dress, catching the folded edges. Repeat steps 17.1 to 17.4 for the second belt loop. TIP You can use your own belt here if you prefer. Skip step 18 and your dress is complete. STEP 18 OPTIONAL Belt (for Childs sizes only) 18.1 Fold belt in half, right sides together, aligning all raw edges. Pin and sew with ½ inch seam allowance along the long edge and one short edge Trim the seam allowance and corners to remove bulk. Turn right sides out. There are several ways to turn the belt tube right side out. If you have a preferred method you are more familiar with, please use this. Alternatively, here is how I like to do it with a loop turner. Insert the loop turner inside the belt tube until it reaches the other end. Perforate the fabric with the little clasp and push it to close the hook. Pull the loop turner back inside very delicately. While pulling the Copyright 2018 R EBECCA PAGE by rebecca-page.com Page 47

48 loop turner inside, smooth the fabric upwards towards the top of the hook and roll the fabric on itself inside the tube so it is wrong sides together. Continue to roll until you ve turned the tube right side out completely. Roll the seam under between your fingers so that it lays flat. Press From your unfinished short edge, slide your buckle onto the belt. Loop the belt over the center bar of the buckle and pull through just far enough that you ll be able to sew the short end to the belt. Pin in place Using a narrow zig-zag stitch, stitch along the raw edge to secure your belt buckle. This will also finish your raw edge. Slide your finished belt through your belt loops. Copyright 2018 R EBECCA PAGE by rebecca-page.com Page 48

49 Congratulations, your Sofia Shirt Dress is done. Enjoy! We would love to hear how you got on and see photos of your finished project! Join us at our Facebook Group at and show it off! You can also tag us or use hashtag #rpsofiashirtdress on Instagram so we can see it! See what everyone else made! Follow us on Thank you for using a R EBECCA PAGE pattern. Copyright 2018 All Rights Reserved Copyright 2018 R EBECCA PAGE by rebecca-page.com Page 49

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