THE DESIGNER S CHOICE TO BE MORE SUSTAINABLE. Charlotte Turner The Sustainable Angle

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1 THE DESIGNER S CHOICE TO BE MORE SUSTAINABLE Charlotte Turner The Sustainable Angle

2 The Sustainable Angle Award winning non-profit organisation. Projects to minimize environmental impact of industry. Core project Future Fabrics Expo, focuses on: The fashion industry Innovation in the textile industry to lower environmental impact Transforming the fashion system and design practice.

3 Projects Showcase events Future Fabrics Expo Pop ups at conferences Future Fabrics Virtual Expo Online sustainable fabrics showcase Sourcing pool coming soon Sustainable sourcing consultation and workshops Brand in house consultation Group workshops Educational collaborations Royal College of Art London College of Fashion Nike project

4 Future Fabrics Expo

5 Future Fabrics Expo Annual showcase, London international visitors Platform to market mills, textiles, processes, and innovations with reduced environmental impact

6 Future Fabrics Expo

7 Future Fabrics Expo High quality low impact materials for fashion and performance New research on sustainability in textiles Featured initiatives SAC, WRAP, UAL/RCA projects

8 Future Fabrics Expo

9 Sustainability background information and criteria displayed with all materials / processes Over 1000 materials Sourced from dozens of international mills

10 Why the Expo? Demand and feedback from visitors and mills Need for design led, inspiring, central sustainable materials sourcing hub Target audience / demand Designers Buyers CSR PR / Marketing Textile technologists Broad target audience and designer focus > jargon free representation of sustainability information (In future, more quantitative information about exact savings eg. energy use)

11 Sourcing the collection Fabrics selected: Meet internationally recognised certification standards. And/or demonstrate improved environmental performance across the textile supply chain, including: Fibre cultivation, processing, spinning, weaving, knitting, bleaching, dyeing, finishing. Cover a broad spectrum: 98% organic cotton certified 85% recycled polyester certified + closed loop cellulosics, leather, wool, silk, new developments etc.

12 Environmental Sustainability Criteria Established with the Centre for Sustainable Fashion ENVIRONMENTAL SUSTAINABILITY CRITERIA Biodiversity the preservation and promotion of biodiversity, with an emphasis on diversification in textile fibres; moving away from a global dependence on raw materials that utilise unsustainable agricultural practices or result in the depletion of finite natural resources. Water the reduction of water use and wastage across the textile supply chain, the treatment and filtering of effluent and wastewater, and use of exemplary wet processing methods. Waste the utilization of identifiable waste streams for textile production and the reduction and recycling of solid waste throughout the textile supply chain. The Sustainable Angle Energy reducing the carbon impact across the textile supply chain, use of renewable energy, and employing production methods that reduce reliance on petrochemicals.

13 Selection process Valid environmental and social certifications eg. GOTS, Bluesign, Oeko-Tex, ISO series, EMAS, C2C, GRS, EU Ecolabel. Sourcing policies incorporating traceability of raw materials down to product level. Measuring and taking steps to reduce water use / solid waste / greenhouse gas emissions. Setting publicly available targets. Exploring innovation in alternative natural fibres and differences between mechanical or chemical methods to process the fibre. Measures taken to minimise pollution to air and water when processing fibres chemically. eg. Effluent treatment, solvent recovery etc. (Evidenced by official documentation) Signatories to strategic policies or initiatives eg. UK Global Compact / Ethical Trading Initiative / Sustainable Apparel Coalition.

14 Designer engagement High interest, limited opportunities and training. Standard trade fairs don t explain full sustainability background, benefits, and associated costs. Disconnect between management and operations on how to implement and reach targets. Expo connects teams, starting with inspiring designers, embedding sustainability across companies.

15 Information transparency Certifications must be stringent. Time intensive to obtain relevant sustainability information. Performance materials have clearer transparency due to extensive performance testing.

16 Benefit across the supply chain Certified mills and transparent supply chains increasing requirement for brands. eg. Nike. Leading brands work with partner mills to help obtain certification instead of restarting supply chain. eg. Kering. Industry coalitions eg. SAC encouraging increased transparency. Early adaptors help shape legislation.

17 Sourcing teams insights Sourcing teams briefed to different levels. Departments working with different parameters and targets. Limited time for exploring new innovations. Essential to show sustainable materials within clear context. FFE provides a centralised sourcing platform with research, resources, and new material opportunities.

18 The future Aims moving forwards: Mills to show more quantifiable reductions stemming from improvements down the supply chain, and innovations. Broader focus on performance and technical textiles. Working more closely with international initiatives and certifiers.

19 Find out more 5 th Future Fabrics Expo London 29 th 30 th September 2015 Future Fabrics Virtual Expo "We believe [Future Fabrics Expo] has the potential to become a significant force in steering the industry down a greener route." Sportswear International [Conventional] cotton is so overrated. The Future Fabrics Expo is really good to find alternative fabrics. Guardian Sustainable Business

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