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1 Custom Structural and Mechanical Home Inspection Property Address: Inspection date: Reported age of building: _25 years; this is not a guarantee of age Concrete slab Foundation: lower level and basement Reported square footage: _1830_this is not a guarantee of SF Buyer s Realtor: Seller s Realtor: Client Information Inspection ordered by Client name Cell 1 Cell According to State regulations, a copy of this report will be given to 3rd parties only if the client gives the inspector permission. Conditions Time of inspection: morning _x_ P.O. Box 7912 Springdale, AR ron@primminspections.com Weather conditions: _sunny, degrees Soil condition _damp_ occupied _yes_ Utilities active: gas _propane_ water _yes_ electric _yes_ Present at the inspection: client _yes_ owner _no_ Realtor _yes_ For the purpose of this inspection this house faces _East; actual is NE_ Invoice Please make your check out to Primm Inspections. We do not accept credit or debit cards. Total fee/invoice $.00 Thank you for your business. Your fee/invoice is paid in full Thank you for choosing experience and reliability! Arkansas home inspector s license---#hi-1387 Arkansas Master s electrical license---#1042 The State of Arkansas Standards of Practice and code of ethics are available at This report complies with the Arkansas Standards of Practice and code of ethics. As applicable, the systems and conditions which are not within the scope of the inspection include: Underground or inaccessible utilities including gas, water, private wells, waste or sewer (including interior corrosion of water or sewer lines), electrical or sprinkler pipes or systems. Hot and cold washer connections, clothes washers, dryers, freezers, refrigerators and water connections. The presence or absence of mold, asbestos, and radon, lead based paint and termite/pest infestation. Concealed defects or deficiencies, piping, wiring or other parts of the structure that cannot be readily accessed. Furnishings or equipment will not be moved or dismantled. Cooling Systems when the exterior temperature is or has been below 60 degrees for the past 24 hours. Detached buildings other than garages and carports. Toxic materials, illegal drugs or the manufacture of drugs within the home or detached buildings Stucco, EIFS or false stucco (Exterior Insulated Finish Systems). Cosmetic deficiencies, door/window locks/latches, or central vacuum systems. Hot tubs, spas, swimming pools, solar panels, elevators, intercoms, sound or security/fire alarm systems. Back-up generators of any type. The roof, if the pitch (6-12 or greater) is too steep or too high to safely access or there are other seasonal impediments. Shake, wood or tile roofing cannot be walked for fear of damaging the shingles or tiles.

2 Primm Inspection & Electrical 2 Terms of and information for your Custom Structural and Mechanical Home Inspection According to State law, this report is intended only for the use of the client and is not transferable or to be used by additional potential buyers or sellers, their Real Estate agents or representatives without the permission of the owner of the document. All home inspections are completed based on the standards set forth by the State of Arkansas. The job of the inspector is to Observe and Report. This inspection and report is not a guarantee or warrantee concerning the home and equipment or its usefulness. The scope of the inspection and report is a limited visual inspection of the readily accessible, visually observable, installed systems and components and the conditions existing at the time of and on the day of the inspection. Conditions may change between the inspection and closing/moving date. A home inspector cannot predict when a mechanical, electrical, plumbing or structural item will fail. The inspection should report (in the professional judgment of the inspector) those systems that are not functioning properly, significantly deficient, unsafe or are near the end of their service lives. The report should make suggestions to correct, or monitor for future correction, the deficiencies reported or items needing further evaluation. The report does not report methods, materials, or costs of corrections. Repairs and maintenance suggestions are not a comprehensive list but a guide for you to use in making decisions. While your inspection is very detailed, it is not possible to report every small repair item or potential repair. The items under repairs and maintenance are the inspector s opinions only and are not binding to the parties of the transaction. The inspector is acting as a generalist and not as a licensed specialist in any specific area. *The inspector is not a foundation, structural or roofing professional; does not have technical licenses in heating, cooling, plumbing or any other technical area other than electrical. It is suggested you obtain opinions from State licensed professional technicians within each specific field. The inspector, by law, must refer all technical questions concerning proper installations or repairs to qualified, State licensed professional companies within each field. All utilities must be on at the time of the inspection in order to complete a full inspection. Return inspections will not be made due to a lack of utilities, coordination or to review repairs. Return inspection fees are a minimum of 50% of the original fee. Billable time includes coordination, one way travel, on-site re-inspection and report preparation. Claims for failure to accurately report: Client understands and agrees that any claim for failure to accurately report the visually discernible conditions at the inspected property on the day of inspection shall be reported to the inspector within ten (10) business days of discovery. The client or persons representing the client will make no repairs to the claimed discrepancy prior to a re-inspection by the inspector. Failure to notify the inspector as stated above shall constitute a waiver of any and all claims. In any case, the liability of the inspector shall be limited to a sum equal to the amount of the inspection fee.

3 Primm Inspection and Electrical Summary of Suggested Repairs 3 It is up to the buyer to determine which issues should be placed in the repair category whether listed in repairs, maintenance or general information. If repairs are considered, you should obtain additional opinions, advice and services from local State licensed qualified professionals within each field. The inspection report is not a guarantee or warranty. It is a limited inspection based on the items that are visible and accessible on the day of inspection. It is your choice whether to purchase a home warranty. Address of the property inspected: Client: Date of inspection: December 11, 2015 Client s Realtor: Electrical Repairs---Obtain repairs, opinions and confirmation of safety from a State licensed master electrician. 1. The wire from the main panel in the garage to the basement panel does not have a separate neutral and ground wire. The 100-amp basement panel has the heating unit, cooling unit and water heater connected to the 100-amp panel as well as several 110-volt items. You should obtain an opinion from a master electrician whether changes and/or repairs should be made. 2. One wall outlet on the west wall of the basement is broken. One wall outlet by the downstairs gas logs is loose in the wall. 3. I could not get the den ceiling fan to work. The master bedroom ceiling fan is wobbling to the point it should not be used. One downstairs light and 1 light above the sink are not working. The kitchen lights are flickering. 4. The upstairs smoke alarm does not work. 5. There is an exposed wire in the attic near the front porch; see photo. Inspection repair and return inspection information A home inspector cannot work on a house he/she has inspected for 1 year following the inspection nor can he/she do a follow-up inspection and provide information that may be in conflict with State licensed technicians recommendations. An inspector can make a return inspection (see page 2 for additional fees) but, regardless of what is found, the report will request the items below. Legally, an inspector cannot request or require corrections; only offer opinions. Remodeling: If a house has been remodeled or painted, the remodeling or painting may, potentially, have covered up problem areas. The inspector can only inspect items that are visible or accessible. If repairs have been made, remodeling completed or new items installed in the past, or considered for the future, you should consider obtaining the following: A detailed dated invoice stating the problem(s), if a repair A detailed dated repairs list for procedures to correct the problem A warranty, if available, on completed repairs or on new or newer items Company name, contact information, name of State license holder and State license # of the person completing the installation or repairs Was the work inspected by City inspectors? If so, obtain a copy of the City s acceptance. This is especially important on roofing and electrical concerns as many insurance companies require a clearance letter before writing new or extending old policies.

4 Each item is rated based on the age of the home. Each category is rated by checking the box as follows: SA = Satisfactory: In the opinion of the inspector, this item is performing its intended function as of the date of the inspection and based on the age of the home. It is your choice whether to confirm with a professional. NP = Not Present: This item does not exist in the home being inspected or could not be located. NI = Not Inspected: This item was not inspected due to inaccessibility, seasonal impediments or inspectors choice. It is your choice whether to obtain opinions from qualified sources. MA = Miscellaneous, Maintenance or useful information: This indicates further information. These items may need attention; the condition of this item may be typical for the age of the home and still require future maintenance or repair; or there may be useful information to the right of the item or in the notes. UN = Unsatisfactory: In the opinion of the inspector, this item requires repair or is unsafe and requires further evaluation; obtain additional opinions from a professional within the respective field. 4 Section 1: Exterior/chimney/gas logs only accessible items can be inspected SA NP NI MA UN Type structure: Wood frame _x Drive and walkways concrete _x_ gravel _x _x Decks/patios wood _x _x Deck bolts to the structure: _no; appears to be nailed _x Deck bracing: _see notes_ Deck flashing against the house: _no _x Siding & trim Brick _x_ wood _x_ wood siding _x _x Wood rot x Soft wood x Weathered wood x Chimney: _enclosed_ flue: metal _x_ Cricket _none_ flue cap _yes_ Chimney cap _yes_ cap needs sealing _yes; rusty_ Visible flashing _yes; older needs cleaning _see notes_ Damper _works _x gas logs/log lighter shut-off valve outside of fire box _up no; down yes_ Soot build-up on gas logs _yes_ Comments and recommendations---see pages 1 and 2 and notes below for information. You should budget for future maintenance and repairs. The wood behind the gutters could not be inspected and the condition is unknown. Maintenance There is a small amount of wood rot and soft/weathered wood at all exterior wall covering areas including portions of the deck. While this may be typical for the age of the house, it is recommended all exposed wood be repaired, caulked, primed and painted to prevent further deterioration. There are two holes in the siding; one on the north side at the chimney flue enclosure and one on the west side to the south of the deck. 2. The deck stair railings are shaky and should be better secured. The deck is secured to the house structure with nails or screws rather than the recommended bolts. There is no additional support under the deck where the deck attaches to the house. You should consider addition additional support or monitor and add as needed. The openings between the deck railings are greater than 4. You should consider adding vertical railing or other type of screening to reduce the opening size. 3. Both sets of gas logs work. The upstairs set has a red flame at the rear. The downstairs set has soot on the logs. It could not be determined if the downstairs gas logs thermostat works. Both sets should be serviced before using.

5 Exterior notes are a part of the report 5 1. The age of this house may be an indication that some components are as old as the house and may not be up to current codes. Future maintenance and/or repairs may be greater on an older house. 2. The exterior inspection is based on the age of the house. Some houses may have slight damage which is considered typical for the age of the house, which is not reported as a repair but is marked satisfactory. The condition of wood behind gutters or exterior wall covering cannot be determined. All exposed wood should be repaired as needed, caulked, primed and painted to prevent deterioration. 3. Gas logs: When gas logs are present, a carbon monoxide alarm is recommended. Safety: Read and follow all instructions pertaining to the safe operation of gas logs. Gas logs and associated vents are not dismantled. Prior to using, gas logs, as well as associated vents, chimneys, flues and flashing, should be serviced and cleaned as needed by a licensed chimney sweep or other professional to ensure the gas logs are in proper and safe working order. Open chimney chases in the attic should be capped at the top to prevent the spread of fire should one originate in the fire box or chase surrounding the metal flue. 4. Decks, porches or stairways more than 24 above the ground should have guardrails that are at least 36 tall. Open spaces or openings between the vertical railings or steps should not be greater than 4. Older houses may not have this type of installation but it is recommended for safety. 5. Bushes and other plants may prevent a full inspection of the exterior wall covering.

6 Section 2: Roof, plumbing vent boots and flashings only accessible items can be inspected. 6 SA=satisfactory NP=not present NI=not inspected MA=misc. info UN=unsatisfactory SA NP NI MA UN _x x Roof method of inspection: walked _x_ Material: asphalt/fiberglass Grade of shingles: standard _x_ Vent boots acceptable: see notes roof flashings _see notes_ Sky lights 3; see notes Antennas or dish attachments _none _x Gutters and downspouts: metal _x_ Needs cleaning when you move in and yearly thereafter Comments and recommendations---see pages 1 and 2 and notes below for information The inspector is not a professional roofing specialist. You should budget for maintenance and repairs. Inspectors opinion of roof and flashing condition--- The roofing materials are in acceptable condition. The plumbing vent boots are in acceptable but may need future maintenance, repair or replacement. See note 3. The remaining flashings around the chimney and skylights are in acceptable condition but may need future maintenance, repair or replacement. The exact age of the roof or whether previous repairs have been made is unknown. Ask the owner for information. Maintenance It was reported the east sky light may have had a leak at some point and was going to be repaired. I couldn t find a leak. Ask the owner for information and repair as needed, if needed. One sky light on the rear porch has cracks but did not appear to be leaking on the day of inspection. You should budget for repairs. 2. Keep gutters and downspouts clean.

7 Roof notes are a part of the report 7 1. The age of this house may be an indication that some components are as old as the house and may not be up to current codes. Future maintenance and/or repairs may be greater on an older house. 2. Roofing: A general opinion is given of the quality and condition of the roofing on the day of the inspection. It is not a guarantee or warranty against future leakage but an inspection of the condition of the roof on the day of inspection. An acceptable roof means there are no signs of leakage on the day of inspection. Stains on attic deck or interior stains are a cause for concern but the inspector cannot determine if they are new or old stains. Roof damage may occur after the inspection and prior to closing/moving as this area is subject to isolated storms. Obtain an opinion from roofing professionals and your insurance provider as well as a non-revocable binder of insurance before closing. The roof can only be inspected to the extent of visible problems or potential problems. A loose shingle, 1 protruding nail, a cracked plumbing vent boot or an improperly installed flashing may cause a leak under the right conditions. A small erratic undetected leak could cause wood rot in areas that cannot be observed by the inspector and cannot be reported. The rubber portion of plumbing vent roof flashings has a shorter life than the roof and may cause premature leakage. You should begin monitoring the condition of roof flashings after a 10 year life or after storms. Metal roof flashings for water heaters and whole house heaters may need future maintenance or repair. 3. The actual life span of shingles varies from years, except for roll roofing which is 5-10 years. Some specific brands may be advertised as having a longer life. The remaining life of a roof or whether future leaks will occur cannot be determined during a home inspection. 4. Gutters are recommended in most situations. Gutters and downspouts are not tested for leakage. Gutter downspouts should drain away from the foundation to avoid foundation settling. Sub-surface drains cannot be tested. If drains are present, it should be determined where they terminate and the drains should be kept clean to allow best water flow.

8 Section 3: Attic Only accessible items can be inspected 8 SA=satisfactory NP=not present NI=not inspected MA=misc. info UN=unsatisfactory SA NP NI MA UN Type Structure wood frame attic temperature x x Attic method of inspection walked all that was accessible _x x Wood trusses _x_ braces _x x x _x visible stains many homes have visible stains that are old _x x approximate insulation depth: 8-12 inches type: fiberglass _x x x Decking: wafer/oriented Strand _x x Access location: garage _x x Ventilation type: soffit _x_ gable _x_ passive _ridge_ Inaccessible portions of the attic: yes _x_ location(s): all attics have small areas around the perimeter that cannot be inspected. The inspection of the attic is a very limited inspection. Specific inaccessible areas: over the deck cover; the attic is difficult to access and difficult to inspect due to the type of structure and clearance. Opinions are for accessible areas only. All accessible areas of the attic were acceptable. The inaccessible areas of the attic could not be inspected and the condition of all items within the inaccessible areas is unknown. Comments and recommendations---see pages 1 and 2 and notes below for information The inspector is not a professional structural specialist. You should budget for maintenance and repairs. Section 4: Garage/carport SA NP NI MA UN _x garage type: attached _x x Automatic reverse (electric eye) x Manual reverse: door needs adjusting: yes _x_ no (see note 6) Comments and recommendations---it is your choice whether to have the garage door adjusted.

9 Attic and garage notes are part of the report 9 1. The age of this house may be an indication that some components are as old as the house and may not be up to current codes. Future maintenance and/or repairs may be greater on an older house. 2. Attic inspection is limited to items that are accessible and visible. If a portion of the attic is inaccessible, the condition of all items in the inaccessible areas cannot be determined. Concealed items under the insulation (such as electrical wiring) are not accessible. 3. Bracing and other framing components cannot be fully evaluated. The inspector cannot know what the codes were at the time the home was built. We cannot determine if codes have been met. It is your choice whether to have a local knowledgeable professional contractor who is equipped to inspect less accessible areas make a further evaluation and give you advice and opinions prior to closing. 4. For greatest energy efficiency and to prolong the life of your roof, maintain good attic ventilation. The acceptable level of ventilation varies according to when and where the house was built and the codes in effect (if any) at the time the house was built or updated. Consult a professional. 5. Since approximately 2004, the typical standard acceptable insulation levels for proper attic insulation is R- 38 or depending on type of insulation. The insulation should be leveled out as much as is possible with depths determined by desired efficiency. The amount of insulation is an energy efficiency item upgrade or comfort related preference, not a requirement or repair. Consult a professional. 6. Garage door openers installed after 1982 should have a built in manual reverse. If operating properly, an overhead door should reverse by applying gentle pressure under a descending door with one hand. Most manual door openers do not work as intended by the manufacturer, therefore are listed as maintenance. It is your choice whether to have the door adjusted and there is no guarantee it will stay adjusted. Garage door openers installed after 1993 should be equipped with an electric eye automatic opener which are an addition to the manual opener. 7. The garage should be sealed from the living space with no wall penetrations, have a fire rated walk door into the home as well as a fire rated attic access. The purpose is to slow or prevent the spread of fire should a fire originate in the garage. 8. Trusses are engineered rafters built off site, trucked to the site and installed. They are considered a very good alternative to rafters when the roof line is not complicated.

10 Section 5: Slab Foundation and drainage only accessible items can be inspected 10 SA=satisfactory NP=not present NI=not inspected MA=misc. info UN=unsatisfactory SA NP NI MA UN x floor and/or supports: slab _downstairs_ wood joists _upstairs _x visible foundation type: concrete _x_ block _x _x visible foundation concerns: _see notes _x visible brick or exterior wall cracks: 1 very small block crack on east side x Drainage: This property drains from the south to the north. x Landscaping sloped away from the house: (See notes on drainage) Comments and recommendations---see pages 1 and 2 and notes below for information This inspector is not a professional foundation specialist. This house did not have a visible or accessible crawl space. You should budget for maintenance and repairs. There did not appear to be active foundation concerns on the day of inspection. There is potential for future foundation concerns as there are moisture stains in the basement. You should monitor the areas of moisture stains. A home inspector can only report the condition of the house and foundation on the day of inspection and cannot know what may happen in the future. It is your choice whether to obtain an opinion from a qualified foundation professional. Maintenance items Water should be diverted away from the foundation especially on the east side to the right of the entry. There are water stains in this area in the basement as well very small ones on the south side of the basement. There was no active moisture on the day of inspection. There are 4 underground pipes attached to the gutter downspouts at the 4 corners of the house. It could not be determined where the underground pipes terminate. They should be located and cleaned; then monitored and cleaned regularly. Whether there will be future moisture entry or foundation concerns is unknown; see information below.

11 Foundation and drainage notes are a part of the report 11 The age of this house may be an indication that some components are as old as the house and may not be up to current codes. Present and future maintenance and/or repairs may be greater on an older house. Any portion of exterior walls installed below the ground level (basements, partial basements or walkout spaces built into the side of a hill) cannot be checked for moisture (other than visible indicators or possibly a moisture meter check). The type of drainage and waterproofing for this house is unknown. Consult a professional. Concrete slab foundations The inspection of the foundation, sub-floor and/or concrete floor and components is limited to visible and accessible areas only and the existing symptoms on the day of the inspection. It cannot be determined during a home inspection if future cracks will develop or whether existing cracks will become larger. All foundations have some degree of settling occur over time. Water (gutter downspouts, sprinklers, condensate drains and landscaping drainage) should be sloped, directed or diverted away from the foundation of the house to prevent foundation settling. Landscaping & retaining walls are inspected only to the degree that they affect the condition of the home. Soil stability cannot be determined during a home inspection. The potential for flooding is not known for this area; contact the City, County, your insurance agent or the neighbors in this area. Weather conditions, type of soil and moisture content of the soil determine whether there will be future problems, i.e. cracking and settling of the foundation, concrete slab, and walls. Most concrete slabs, footings and walls experience small common cracks which may not be reported. The report and photos are information for you to consider for possible further evaluations and improvement. Current conditions are not a guarantee of future issues: It is your choice whether to obtain an opinion from a local professional foundation repair company prior to closing. The concrete slab and foundation of a home is not visible and cannot be literally checked. The condition of the slab under floor covering in not known. The conclusions are obtained by problem indicators listed below. Methods for checking slab foundations; recent painting, caulking or other renovations will limit the inspection 1. Exterior walls and visible foundations for cracks or other movement. Cracks in brick or rock exterior walls may be a sign of brick shelf settling which may not be a part of the foundation. It cannot be fully determined whether brick, block or rock cracks are a result of the settling of the brick shelf or the foundation. 2. Interior walls for excessive cracks other than common cracks. Most homes have common wall cracks. If the interior of the home has been recently caulked and painted, cracks may not be visible; this indicator is ineffective and cannot be used as an indicator. 3. Interior doors for swing and proper fit. 4. Interior tile floors for excessive cracking. 5. Windows for drag and warping when raising and lowering. 6. Accessible and visible foundations, pier components and drainage. This inspector is not licensed by the state of AR for investigation of mold or termite/pest infestation.

12 This house does not have a crawl space. This section is for your information only Section 5A: Crawl space/foundation/basement/drainage only accessible items can be inspected 12 SA=satisfactory NP=not present NI=not inspected MA=misc. info UN=unsatisfactory SA NP NI MA UN x crawl space entered yes no _x floor and/or supports: slab block wood joists piers brick _x unconventional piers: yes no _x visible foundation movement or cracks: see notes visible brick or exterior wall cracks: yes no floor joist insulation: yes no ground vapor barrier: yes no crawl space ventilation adequate: yes no marginal moisture, damage or wood rot: yes no _x Drainage: This property drains from the _x Landscaping sloped away from the house: Confirm proper drainage. Anchor bolts at perimeter plates: yes no visible Range of crawl space clearances: Comments and recommendations---see pages 1 and 2 and notes below for information. A house with a crawlspace or basement is much more complicated than a house built on a slab. Much of the information below is for your information and to better inform of potential future maintenance rather than to point out repairs. The inspector is not a professional foundation specialist. You should budget for maintenance and repairs. Specific areas that could not be physically accessed other than around the perimeter: The condition of the inaccessible areas could not be determined. It is your choice whether to obtain an opinion from a local qualified crawl space contractor that is equipped to access low clearance areas prior to closing. General condition of crawl space/foundation/basement---from a general standpoint, the older the house, the more likely problems or concerns will be found. Based on a limited visible inspection of accessible areas, the crawlspace is in. This does not mean future maintenance and or repairs will not be needed. Maintenance items Foundation repairs---confirm repairs or obtain an opinion from a professional. 1.

13 Crawl space/foundation/drainage notes are a part of the report 13 The age of this house may be an indication that some components are as old as the house and may not be up to current codes. Present and future maintenance and/or repairs may be greater on an older house. The inspection of the foundation, crawl space, basement, sub-floor and/or concrete floor and components is limited to visible and accessible areas only and the existing symptoms on the day of the inspection. Any portion of exterior walls installed below the ground level (basements, partial basements or walkout spaces built into the side of a hill) cannot be checked for moisture (other than visible indicators or possibly a moisture meter check). The type of drainage and waterproofing for this house is unknown. Consult a professional. If a house has been painted or remodeled, the remodeling potentially may have covered exterior and interior concerns which are not visible to the inspector. Ask the owner for information. The accessible portions of the crawl space (16 or more) or basement are checked for wood rot, structural deficiencies, water intrusion, accessible plumbing, visible problems with waste or gas lines and air conditioning ductwork. Even when marked accessible, almost all crawl spaces cannot be 100% inspected. In the best of conditions, portions of the crawl space may not be visible or accessible due to low clearance, barriers, AC duct, water pipes, sewage, animals or potential safety hazards. If any of these items apply, photos will be taken to inform you of the reasons why the crawlspace could not be checked. If a portion of the crawl space is inaccessible or partially inaccessible, the inspector cannot make a determination of its condition. Please consult the seller s disclosure regarding past history. It cannot be determined during a home inspection if future cracks or settling will develop or whether existing cracks or settling will get worse. All foundations will have some degree of settling occur over time. Most concrete slabs, footings, piers and walls experience small common cracks which may not be reported. The report and photos are information for you to consider for possible further evaluations and improvement. Future maintenance and/or repairs may be needed. Current conditions are not a guarantee of future issues: It is your choice whether to obtain an opinion from a professional foundation repair company prior to closing. Drainage is important: Landscaping & retaining walls are inspected only to the degree that they affect the condition of the home. Soil stability cannot be determined during a home inspection. Water (gutter downspouts, sprinklers, condensate drains and landscaping drainage) should be sloped, directed or diverted away from the foundation of the house to prevent foundation settling, wood deterioration and rusting of AC duct, gas pipe or other metal components. The potential for flooding is not known for this area; for information, contact the City or County, your insurance agent or the neighbors in this area. Weather conditions, type of soil and moisture content of the soil determines whether there will be future problems, i.e. cracking and settling of the foundation, concrete slab, and walls.

14 Methods for checking crawlspace and basement foundation Visible exterior walls and visible exterior foundations are checked for cracks or other movement. Cracks in brick or rock exterior walls may be a sign of brick shelf settling which may not be a part of the foundation. It cannot be fully determined whether brick or rock cracks are a result of the settling of the brick shelf or the foundation. 2. Visible crawl space perimeter foundations, piers, beams and structure. The presence of crawl space insulation will limit the inspection. 3. Interior walls are checked for excessive cracks other than common cracks. Most settling cracks are diagonal cracks above doors and above/below windows. Straight line cracks no larger than a pencil lead may not be settling cracks. 4. Interior doors are checked for swing and proper fit. 5. Interior tile floors are checked for excessive cracking. 6. Windows are checked for drag and warping when raising and lowering. Crawl space ventilation is important Leave crawl space vents open in the summer for ventilation and closed in the winter to prevent freezing. Depending on the size of the crawl space, there should be a minimum of 1 crawl space vent within 3 of each corner to promote adequate cross ventilation. More may be needed depending on the size of the crawl space. A ground vapor barrier seal helps to keep moisture from damaging the components in the crawl space. Piers: Many older houses have unconventional piers. This is not necessarily a cause for concern but a method of informing you of the type of construction. Many older homes will have some degree of future maintenance or repairs on the foundation or crawl space to correct floor deflection or other concerns. This is typical and to be expected. Unconventional piers may be considered acceptable for the age of the house and noted as unconventional. They may require present or future replacement or repair to prevent floor deflection or damage. Typically, it will be the home buyers choice whether to make improvements, up-grades and/or repairs to an older home s crawlspace. If block piers are installed, they should be installed where the holes in the blocks are facing down and topped with hardwood or steel rather than wood shims. A good modern alternative is to use screw jack supports. All piers should be placed on a concrete or other solid foundation. If beams are used, they should be steel, solid dense wood or laminated wood strong enough for the purpose. If your house has more floor deflection than desired, you should consider installing additional piers, supports or beams. This inspector is not licensed by the state of AR for investigation of mold or termite/pest infestation

15 Section 6: Plumbing only accessible items can be inspected Water pressure: _55 PSI_ (40-80 is normal; see note 3) Pressure regulator _south side of basement_ Location sewer clean-out _none visible_ Type visible pipe: water copper gas _propane; was not visible sewer PVC Approximate age of plumbing _mostly original_ The brand and type of the plumbing components cannot always be determined. Utility shut-off locations: water _utility meter and south basement_ gas _propane tank_ 15 SA=satisfactory NP=not present NI=not inspected MA=misc. info UN=unsatisfactory SA NP NI MA UN _x x water flow _x x visible leaks _x exterior faucets _x dryer power: electric _x_ visible dryer vent _x_ (clean yearly) _x water heater: _Whirlpool_ location _basement_ Age _November 2010; 5 years Fuel: electric _x_ capacity _40_gallons x pressure relief valves (can be checked for presence; not actual operation) x Is pressure relief valve pipe temperature rated? _none present _x drain pan: none piping to exterior: none (Recommended, if possible) _x x visible deterioration (The interior is not visible) _x toilets _x x sinks _x x bathtubs and showers Comments and recommendations---see page 1 and 2 and notes below for information The inspector is not a licensed plumber. You should budget for future maintenance or repairs. A home inspection cannot determine when a mechanical item may fail. The age of equipment is the date of manufacture, not the installation date. Maintenance items Water flow may be restricted or there may be small leaks at the faucet handles due to age of plumbing components. 2. The water heater should have a pipe from the pressure relief valve; see note 5 below.

16 Plumbing notes are part of the report The age of this house may be an indication that some components (sewer, water and gas pipes) are as old as the house and may not be up to current codes. Present and future maintenance and/or repairs may be greater on an older house. 2. Wells, septic tanks and septic lateral lines are not checked. If present, they should be checked by a State certified inspector. Underground or inaccessible lines (interior and exterior of the pipe) of any kind, (gas, water, electric, sewer, sprinkler, washer drains and waste water lines cannot be checked. Plumbing is not checked for code violations, only whether the plumbing fixtures are working. 3. A PSI between 40 and 80 is considered normal. Below 40 PSI, you may experience low pressure and low water flow. Above 80 PSI, you may experience pressure related damage to plumbing components. It is your choice whether to install a pressure reducer or pressure booster. In some homes, you may have good pressure and low flow due to interior pipe deposits or inadequate lines. 4. If possible, ask owner for location of shut-off valves, clean-outs and maintenance/repair records. 5. Typical life of a water heater is years depending on many factors with the exception of the element. Pressure relief valves cannot be tested, only whether they are present. The pipe from the water heater pressure relief valve should be piped to within 6 of the floor or to the exterior with copper pipe or other pipe that is suitable for high temperature water. The interior of the water heater is not inspected.

17 Section 7: Kitchen only accessible items can be inspected 17 SA=satisfactory NP=not present NI=not inspected MA=misc. info UN=unsatisfactory SA NP NI MA UN _x countertops and cabinets (if they are usable, they are acceptable) _x range: electric _x x oven: electric _x _x range/oven safety tip-over bracket (brackets are recommended) _x sink _x drains _x disposal _x dishwasher _x dishwasher safety tip-over bracket (brackets are recommended) _x microwave type exhaust: re-circulating _x x refrigerator/freezer most refrigerators/freezers do not convey Comments and recommendations---see pages 1 and 2 and notes below for information. The ages of the kitchen appliances is unknown but appear to be older. Ask the owner for information. You should budget for future maintenance or repairs. A home inspection cannot determine when a mechanical item may fail. Maintenance items The sink sprayer did not work. Kitchen notes are a part of this report 1. The age of this house may be an indication that some components are as old as the house and may not be up to current codes. Present and future maintenance and/or repairs may be greater on an older house. 2. All appliances are operated in NORMAL modes of operation or what is determined by the inspector to be normal; therefore, not all operational settings are inspected. Self and/or continuous cleaning operation, clocks, timing devices, lights and thermostat accuracy are not tested during this inspection. The remaining life of kitchen appliances cannot be determined during a home inspection. Be aware of the average life expectancy of appliances. If an appliance is not working, the inspector does not attempt to repair, restore power or attempt to determine the reason why an appliance does not work. 3. Dishwashers, disposals, microwaves, ranges, ovens, vent hoods, ice makers and compactors are checked for operation only; not how well they work. Refrigerators, freezers, portable dishwashers, washers, dryers or any unattached appliances are not checked unless requested. 4. Appliances are not moved.

18 Section 8: Heating RUUD HM4989 Only accessible items can be checked Near end of normal life span: yes _x_ Location: _basement_ Type unit: central split system _x_ age November, 1989; 26_years outside temperature during inspection _50-70_ type fuel: electric _x_ Heat pump _x_ 18 SA=satisfactory NP=not present NI=not inspected MA=misc. info UN=unsatisfactory SA NP NI MA UN x Heat Pump: supply return temperature rise _x HP + heat strips: supply return temperature rise x thermostat x electrical disconnecting means x visible deterioration x door safety switch Condensate over-flow sensor: no _x x is heating unit easily accessible? Comments and recommendations---see pages 1 and 2 and notes below for information This inspector is not a licensed heating and cooling technician. You should budget for future maintenance or repairs. A home inspection cannot determine when a mechanical item may fail. The age of equipment is date of manufacture, not when it was installed Maintenance items---for greatest energy efficiency and to prolong the life of the unit, service heating and cooling units yearly 1. *The heating unit in this house is 26 years old and is working. It is past its normal life span. Temperature ranges were not taken due to the unusual high exterior temperature. The unit could not be run long enough to get a good temperature check. It is unknown how long it will continue to work to suit your specific needs. There is some rusting at the bottom of the unit. For peace of mind, you should consider having the heating unit serviced to determine whether it is in best operating condition. This may be normal maintenance but it is your choice whether to place in repairs. Section 9: Cooling RUUD; 2.5_ton age November 1989; 26_years only accessible items can be inspected Outside temperature _50-70_ (see notes for cooling inspection limitations during low exterior temperatures) Near end of normal life span: yes _x_ no SA NP NI MA UN x cooling: supply return temperature drop x electrical disconnecting means x condenser coil: dirty _no_ damaged _no _x condensation drain line clean before cooling season; yearly thereafter The drain line terminates: _unknown_ Comments and recommendations---see pages 1 and 2 for information With an outside temperature ranging from degrees, the cooling unit could be turned on but the supply/return air temperatures could not be checked due to low exterior temperatures. The cooling unit works but it cannot be determined how well the unit will work in hot temperatures.

19 Maintenance items *The cooling unit in this house is 26 years old and is working. It is past its normal life span. It was too cool to obtain a good temperature check. It is unknown how long it will continue to work to suit your specific needs. It is a 2.5 ton unit. Based on a rule of thumb, the unit is small for the house. This should be confirmed with a professional. It could not be determined where the condensate line terminates. It should be located and cleaned before the next cooling season. The condensate line should drain away from the foundation. There has been moisture around the unit in the basement and condensate line. For peace of mind, you should consider having the cooling unit serviced to determine whether it is in best operating condition as well as air flow. This may be normal maintenance but it is your choice whether to place in repairs. 19 Section 10: Air distribution only accessible items can be inspected SA NP NI MA UN x air duct located: _basement and between floors_ Type of visible duct _metal _x visible duct insulation x air flow in each major room x filter (change filters every 1-3 months) Comments and recommendations---see pages 1 and 2 and notes below for information. AC ducts were not visible in some areas. All accessible ducts were acceptable but not all ducts were accessible and could not be inspected. The condition of the inaccessible ducts is unknown. When a multi-level home is heated and cooled with one unit, it may be difficult to heat and cool each level at the same temperature or one that is suitable to you.

20 Heating and cooling notes are a part of the report The age of this house may be an indication that some components are as old as the house and may not be up to current codes. Present and future maintenance and/or repairs may be greater on an older house. 2. Attic insulation, ventilation, age, location and condition of the heating or cooling unit, filters, condition of the duct system, amount of air infiltration, humidity, orientation of the house, number of shade trees and exterior temperature all have an effect on how well the units heat or cool the home. 3. If the exterior temperature has been between 60 and 80 degrees at the time of and for the past 24 hours, the cooling may be checked for mechanical operation only and the condensate drain line may not be checked. If a temperature cooling check is made, the test will not be conclusive due to the lower outside temperatures. If possible, ask seller to provide service and repair history on both heating and cooling. 4. This inspection does not determine if the heating or cooling system(s) is adequate for your specific needs, only whether it is working. 5. The normal life span of a heating/cooling unit is years. The remaining life of a heating and cooling system cannot be determined during a home inspection. The information is based on what is found on the day of inspection only. 6. It cannot be determined if a heating or cooling system is properly sized or balanced for the home. This inspection does not determine whether the size of the return air is large enough for efficient operation, only that it is present and operating. Filters should be changed every 1-3 months. A dirty filter can allow dust into the system; coat the cooling A coil with dust which may cause the heating and cooling to operate inefficiently and premature failure of the unit. Condensate drains and outside condenser coils should be cleaned prior to the next cooling season and yearly thereafter. You should consider having a duct blaster test on your heating/cooling ducts to determine the location of air leaks and have repairs made as needed. A home inspection cannot determine the location of air duct leaks. 7. Air flow may be less in the rooms farthest away from the fan unit; this may be corrected by adjusting supply vents. In houses that do not have return air grills in the bedrooms, you may need to undercut doors or leave doors cracked to ensure good air flow. You should not close off more than 20% or less of supply air vents. Restricted air flow may damage unit components or cause inefficient operation. 8. Condensate drain sensors are intended to sense excessive condensate moisture in the condensate pipe or drain pan and shut the cooling unit off to avoid water overflow and damage. 9. Safety: Carbon monoxide alarms are recommended when any type of heating uses combustible fuel. 10. Under-floor duct may contain moisture and debris with reduced air flow. Consider having under-floor duct professionally cleaned. 11. Simply put, heat pumps are cooling condensers that reverse the cooling cycle, extract heat from the air, transfer the heat to the fan unit and heats the home until the exterior temperature drops below approximately 32 degrees. If the heat pump cannot comfortably heat the home, the heating system, normally, has a backup gas or electric system that assists the heat pump. Heat pumps are considered very efficient. If the thermostat is set approximately 3 degrees above the set point of the inside temperature, the backup heat will activate. Therefore, it is best to keep your thermostat at a constant setting or within 2 degrees of your comfort setting.

21 Section 11: Electrical only accessible items can be inspected Panel #1: Brand _Siemens_ location main switch: at panel location of panel: garage _x_ Panel outdated: no _x_ # breakers/fuses _15_ # spares _7_ Incoming wiring: underground _x_ rating _200_amp voltage volts Small misc. branch circuit wiring: copper _x_ 3-4 wire Romex _x_ Is the size of the electrical service adequate to meet the needs of the home? Yes _x_ Panel #2: Brand Cutler Hammer location main switch: at main panel location of panel: _basement_ Panel outdated: no _x_ # breakers/fuses _10_ # spares _6_ Rating _100_amp voltage volts Small misc. branch circuit wiring: copper _x_ 3-4 wire Romex _x_ SA=satisfactory NP=not present NI=not inspected MA=misc. info UN=unsatisfactory SA NP NI MA UN _x_ wiring from meter to panel: _aluminum; with copper to basement_ Approximate age of wiring _mostly original x panel overcurrent protection: breakers _x x is the electrical panel easily accessible with 3 in front of panel? _yes x ground wire to a ground source (identified as present but not how well it works) x Arc fault or GFCI (safety) breakers _x Breaker/fuse/wire-size compatibility _1 safety outlets strongly recommended _x_ wall outlets approximate % checked _80 x_ switches _x doorbell _x_ lights/fans x bathroom exhaust fans x _x bathroom exhaust fan duct x bathroom ceiling heaters _1 _1_ smoke alarms strongly recommended x carbon monoxide alarms strongly recommended _x_ visible exposed wiring Comments and recommendations---see pages 1 and 2 and notes below for information All wall outlets or switches with a problem are marked with a colored dot. You should budget for future maintenance or repairs. A home inspection cannot determine when an electrical item may fail. Maintenance items *Safety: Additional smoke/carbon monoxide alarms and safety outlets are strongly recommended as an up-grade. This house has 1 safety outlet, no carbon monoxide alarms, 1 working smoke alarm and 1 that is not working. Both smoke alarms are old. See notes 5 and The bathroom exhaust fans work but are older and may need future maintenance, repair or replacement. Electrical Repairs---Obtain repairs, opinions and confirmation of safety from a State licensed master electrician. 1. The wire from the main panel in the garage to the basement panel does not have a separate neutral and ground wire. The 100-amp basement panel has the heating unit, cooling unit and water heater connected to the 100-amp panel as well as several 110-volt items. You should obtain an opinion from a master electrician whether changes and/or repairs should be made. 2. One wall outlet on the west wall of the basement is broken. One wall outlet by the downstairs gas logs is loose in the wall. 3. I could not get the den ceiling fan to work. The master bedroom ceiling fan is wobbling to the point it should not be used. One downstairs light and 1 light above the sink are not working. The kitchen lights are flickering. 4. The upstairs smoke alarm does not work. 5. There is an exposed wire in the attic near the front porch; see photo. 21