Screw In Adapter Kit (5R3Z-3050-ADAPT) (2) Screw In Adapters. ½ Drive 21mm Deep Socket ½ Drive 6 Extension 19mm Wrench Torque Wrench Side Cutter/Dikes

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1 Component List (Each kit sold separately): Ball Joint Anti-Roll Kit (5R3Z-3050-K) (2) Precision Ball Joints (2) Grease Seal Boots (2) Zip Ties Screw In Adapter Kit (5R3Z-3050-ADAPT) (2) Screw In Adapters Ball Joint Socket Tool (5R3Z-3050-TOOL) Tools required for installation: Press or Ball joint removal tool Press adapter accessories ½ Drive ratchet ½ Drive 15mm Socket ½ Drive 18mm Socket ½ Drive 21mm Deep Socket ½ Drive 6 Extension 19mm Wrench Torque Wrench Side Cutter/Dikes Ball Joint Socket Tool (sold separately) Tig Welding Equipment Loctite Blue 242 (or equivalent) Thread Locker WARNING! Installation of this kit requires above average mechanical skills. This procedure should only be undertaken by a competent individual with the necessary skills to properly complete the installation. We strongly recommend that a factory workshop manual be available for reference during the installation. If you are not confident you can complete the job safely, have the work performed by a certified technician who is familiar with the suspension of a Mustang. Failure to reassemble the suspension properly can lead to serious injury. Installation: 1. Raise vehicle and remove two front wheels. Make sure to use jack stands if you are not using a lift. 2. Remove Passenger Lower Control Arm. It is secured at three points. (Reference Figure A - Reverse Side) Release tie rod end from upright to gain better access to the front control arm bushing bolt. Use a 21mm wrech to loosen jam nut on rack shaft from tie rod end just enough to release and no further. Use a 19mm wrench to loosen nut securing tie rod to upright. Tap on side of upright arm with a hammer while pulling down on tie rod to release taper seat from upright. Fully remove top nut and spin off factory tie rod end if replacing with aftermarket ends. IT IS HIGHLY RECOMMENDED TO REPLACE YOUR FACTORY OUTER TIE RODS WITH BUMPSTEER ADJUSTABLE ENDS TO FIX THE EXCESSIVE BUMPSTEER THAT WILL BE INDUCED FROM THE TALLER BALL JOINTS (SPP Part #5S3Z-3A130-SL). Remove rear nuts securing the rear hydra bushings of the lower control arm using a 21mm socket. Turn steering wheel to the Far left to put steering rack shaft and boot in optimal position to gain access to front control arm pivot bolt. Using a 18mm socket with an extension remove front bolt securing the control arm bushing. Take care not to damage steering rack boot when removing bolt as it is a very tight fit. Some cars may require loosening or removing the steering rack bolts to move the entire steering rack for gaining better access to these bolts (See Figure 1). Remove bolt and nut securing ball joint to the upright using a 15mm socket for the bolt and 19mm wrench for the nut. Carefully remove factory control arm. A pry bar may be required to separate from chassis. 130 Cassia Way Henderson, NV Fax

2 Figure A Illustration used with permission from Ford Motor Company 2008 Mustang Workshop Manual (Volume 2) Pg. #

3 3. Repeat step 2 to remove Driver Lower Control Arm. Figure 1 4. Press out factory ball joints. Using a press or ball joint removal tool, remove factory ball joints from control arms. Removing the boot retaining rings and boot will allow access to the steel housing of the ball joint on top (See Figure 2). Do not press out against the stud! Take care not to damage the control arm being sure to only press against ball joint housing (See Figures 3 and 4). 5. Install SPP Precision Ball Joints Press in threaded adapter ring from the bottom of the control arm with the smaller step on the ring going in first using a press until it fully seats against the top of the control arm. Press squarely only on the adapter ring. CAUTION! Make sure there is not gap after ring is fully seated. It is not critical for the ring to be parallel with the bottom of the control arm as long as the top is fully seated (See Figure 5). Tack weld adapter to control arm in three evenly spaced locations. It is recommended to use a tig welder (See Figure 6). Apply Loctite 242 Blue thread locker to threads of ball joint housing (See Figure 7). Screw ball joints into threaded adapters until fully seated against adapter ring. Torquing of the ball joint will be completed after installing control arm. Install Boot until fully seated against control arm. Install provided zip ties into the groove of the boot and tighten to retain. Trim zip tip with a side cutter (See Figure 8). Ball joints are shipped pre-lashed and greased. Figure 2 Figure 3 Press Here 6. Reinstall Control Arms First install the hardware to the rear pivots, but do not fully tighten. Reverse the nuts and bolts for the rear pivot so that the nuts are now on the bottom to allow access for proper torquing. Install ball joint stud into upright and align groove to install the clamping bolt and nut through the upright. Torque ball joint housing with intended ball joint socket tool (PN 5R3Z-3050-TOOL) to 100 ft-lbs. CAUTION! Do not use a ½ drive ratchet on the LBJ tension cap to tighten ball joint as it is not designed to withstand this amount of torque. Torque all hardware to factory specs show in Figure A. 7. Reinstall Steering Rack and Tie Rods If steering rack was removed replace in same fashion and torque bolts to 85 ft-lbs. Install tie rod to aftermarket manufacturer recommendations if upgrading to a bumpsteer adjusting tie rod end. If temporarily reinstalling factory tie rod, thread back onto steering rack shaft and jam nut against the tie rod end. Install tapered pin into steering arm of upright and tighten top nut to 59 ft-lbs (See Figure 9). Figure 4 Figure 5 No Gap

4 8. Reinstall wheels and lower vehicle. Figure 6 9. It is highly recommended to take the car, before driving, to get it realigned and bumpsteer corrected due to the change in suspension geometry. Failure to do so may result in unpredictable and/or uncontrollable handling, resulting in serious bodily injury. Tack Welds Maintenance: Figure 7 Grease ball joints with low friction grease after every 3000 miles for street driving and every 1000 miles (about 300 to 400 track laps) for track driving. We recommend Citgo MP Lithoplex 3 or Red Line CV2. Unlike conventional ball joints, ours will only accept grease until it is full (typically, one pump or less is required). Once the grease passages are full they will not vent, the pressure from the grease gun can make it difficult to remove the gun from the zerk. To relieve the pressure work the ball stud around to vent grease onto the ball, if the ball joint is on the vehicle, bounce the suspension for the same result. Remove and disassemble annually or every 10,000 miles (roughly 2000 laps) to clean all moving parts and adjust lash. Follow procedures below and reference exploded view figure (Back page). Figure 8 Disassembly: Use a 3/32 allen wrench to remove the set screws from the housing. Remove grease zerk using a deep 5/16 socket. With a 1/2 drive ratchet turn adjuster cap counterclockwise to remove. Remove ball stud. Clean moving parts to inspect for excessive wear. Replace any parts that are worn or damaged. The ball stud is concentric and should be checked for straightness. Install the ball stud upside down in the housing and spin the stud against the side of the housing with your fingers. If the ball stud is bent, you will see it wobble. Figure 9 Assembly: Install the housing into the a-frame or gently clamp the housing by the flats into a vise. Install the ball stud into the housing without grease. Apply a small amount of light lubricant to the threads of the cap, install and tighten until it contacts the top of the ball. Set the lash on the ball by loosening the cap 1/8 turn. Install the set screws into the housing tightening them evenly. Using a grease gun, grease and rotate the ball stud by hand until the grease is visible on the bottom of the ball.

5 Threaded Adapter Ring LBJ Housing Main LBJ Tall Stud LBJ Tension Cap Socket Set Screw Grease Zerk Neoprene Grease Seal Boot Zip Tie