Generational buying motivations for fashion

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1 The Emerald Research Register for this journal is available at The current issue and full text archive of this journal is available at JFMM 78 PRACTITIONER PAPER Generational buying motivations for fashion Laura Portolese Dias The School of Fashion, Art Institute of Seattle, Seattle, Washington, USA Keywords Consumer behavior, Fashion, Age groups, Motivation, Marketing research Abstract Understanding generational differences is basic to marketing fashion items to different generations. A companythat can understand these differences will be able to create better products that speak to generations and learn how to better advertise and market to these generations. This paper represents findings of 453 surveys from members of Generation X and Generation, mall observation and industryinterviews. It examines the motivations of each generation for purchasing fashion related items and concludes byexplaining reasoning for these differences and gives suggestions to better reach these markets. Results indicate that marketers must learn the overall perception that each generation has of itself, and market based upon these views. In addition, results indicate that despite the different needs and wants a generation may have while theyare young, everygeneration will eventuallyneed and want the same kinds of items. Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management Vol. 7 No. 1, 2003 pp # MCB UP Limited DOI / Introduction Generation X is defined by the US Census Bureau 2000) as those individuals born between the years of 1962 and Generation is defined as those born between the years of 1981 and Through primary research methods and secondary research, it has been found that each of these generations has very different motivations for buying consumer goods. Generation X, according to the US Census Bureau 2000) has close to 26.6 million members. Generation is almost two times the size of Generation X at 48.3 million. Generation spends $25 billion of their own money, and influences another $187 billion dollars of spending Cozzalio, 1999). In addition, both of these generations have different personalities and attitudes. These varying attitudes affect the kinds of things they purchase and also influences their motivations to purchase. Generation X was first characterized as ``slackers'' in the 1992 Douglas Coupland book, Generation X. He uses the word ``McJobs'', to describe the fact that Generation X wants to get out of high stress jobs, simplify work and enjoy what they do for a living. This generation feels that the world is gearing up to punish them down the road. Research shows that those born in the 1960s and 1970s scored lower on tests and experienced high rates of crime, suicide and substance abuse. This generation is perceived by older generations as: A lost generation, an army of aging Bart Simpsons, possibly armed and dangerous Strauss and Howe, 1991).

2 However, many of these terms were coined when Generation X members were younger, more rebellious. Marketers are beginning to realize that Generation X numbers have grown up, have gotten married, are buying homes, having babies and looking for many of the same products and services as baby boomers. The dot.com boom was the result of many Generation Xers not wanting to conform to the norm and wanting to make marketers and society call them ``strivers'' instead of ``slackers'' Maguire, 1998). On the other hand, nine in ten Generation ers describe themselves as ``happy'', ``upbeat'' and ``confident'' Howe and Strauss, 2000). Generation accepts authority; they are cooperative, team players. This generation is one of the most watched by the media in recent memory Howe and Strauss, 2000). They score high on maturity and while their attitude is edgy, they are very optimistic, unlike Generation X Cozzalio, 1999). Generation, as a whole are also career driven and motivated. The results of this research will show that although each of these generations has different motivations for buying, once any generation reaches a specific age, their motivations are similar. Buying motivations for fashion 79 Method Participants A survey was mailed to collect data from the 453 participants. These surveys were sent to 24 high school teachers, with 30 surveys in each packet. The same surveys were sent to six colleges, with 50 surveys in each packet, for a total of 1,020 surveys mailed for a yielded response rate of 44.4 percent. The convenience sample included those in both generations. The sample was obtained by mailing surveys to random high school teachers and college professors. Included in this mailing was a letter explaining the purpose of the survey, gave instructions for administering the survey and asked the instructor to choose one class randomly to administer the 30 surveys to. A self-addressed, stamped envelope was also included to return the surveys. The mailing occurred in the northwest region of the USA, and varied from smaller towns to major cities. Because of the pointed method of soliciting survey respondents, through high school and college teachers, the author feels confident the surveys were answered truthfully and by the correct audience. Question design Out of 24 questions, 11 questions used a nominal scale, two used a constant sum scale, two used open-ended questions and nine used a Likert scale. Only three of the nominal scale questions and two of the Likert scale questions will be discussed here. The questions addressed the types of products purchased and the reasoning for purchase. The questions tried to elicit factual, demographic data as well as behavioral responses.

3 JFMM 80 Observation methods The second method of research consisted of mall observations conducted in three separate shopping facilities during three separate days and at various times. The shopping facilities were chosen for ease of access for the author. The first observation was at Northgate Shopping Center, a suburban mall with Nordstrom and The Bon MarcheÂ as anchor stores. The time observed was from p.m. on a Thursday afternoon. The second observation was at a downtown Seattle shopping area, where Nordstrom is an anchor, but there are many small boutiques, movie theaters and restaurants in the area. This observation was done on a Saturday morning from a.m. to 1.00 p.m. The final observation was done in a suburban regional mall, Southcenter on a Tuesday evening from p.m. Correct grouping occurred for those marginal individuals by asking individual shoppers at the end of the observation of them to disclose their age. Some groupings occurred by obvious means ± it is not difficult to identify a 14-year-old versus a 24-year-old. It was observed that most Generation women and men tend to shop with friends, and treat it as a social activity. The observer saw more Generation X women shopping alone, suggesting the shopping trip was for utility purposes. Few Generation X men were shopping at all. This could be a result of these Generation X men, now married, having wives that now choose clothing for them. When Generation X men were shopping, it was typically with a female companion. Generation X tended to carry more shopping bags, while Generation did not. This might further suggest a shopping trip as utility for Generation X, but more of a social interaction for Generation. Generation members spent more time browsing through all of the shops and spent a lot more time talking about other things, rather than the specific items they were shopping for. Examples of comments overheard from Generation can further implicate their need for belonging, while comments overheard from Generation X can further implicate their motivation to shop and buy for utility. Following are some of the comments overheard when looking at specific items in a store: Generation X comments:. ``This would be good for work.''. ``I like this shirt, I won't have to iron it.'' Generation comments:. `` has this shirt, I really like it.''. ``This is so cute.'' Most female members of Generation X did not go into specific ``trendy'' stores such as Pacific Sunwear and Abercrombie and Fitch. They tended to shop in department stores and The Gap, Banana Republic, Ann Taylor and other stores that sell items that are professional and can be worn to work.

4 The female members of Generation, as stated earlier, went into most of the shops in the shopping mall, however, they tended to avoid shops selling only work-type clothing, like Ann Taylor. They also spent a significant amount of time in department stores as well. Again, this observation suggests each of these generations are in various times of their lives and care about different things when shopping. Generation X cares more about the utility of the shopping experience, i.e. I need new clothing for work versus spending time with friends in the mall. Buying motivations for fashion 81 Industryinterviews Finally, for the third method of research, industry interviews were conducted to determine how this information could be used in a real world marketing setting. The industry members were chosen for their expertise on generational buying motivations, or experience marketing or advertising to these generations. Interviews were conducted with seven industry people six total interviews, one interview had two people), with various experiences in advertising and marketing. There were two individuals who worked for advertising firms in the northwest, one as a technology marketer, two marketing professors, one teaches at a community college, the other at an art school both have real world marketing experience) and two work for a retailconsulting group. Following are the open-ended discussion questions asked of the interviews: 1) Do you feel there are differences between the generations when purchasing? 2) If there are differences, why do you feel these differences exist? 3) What are the underlying motivations for Generation X? Generation? 4) How do you see these differ from one another? 5) How are these two generations similar? Through this loosely structured interview, the majority of the interviewees agreed that the generations have different reasons for buying, however, they tended to disagree in their reasoning why. Some offered social or political reasons, such as ``making a statement against conformity'' while others simply thought it was a way of each generation developing an identity. One of the interviewees suggested that Generation X buys more for utility. Generation X has been called the ``lost generation'', in part due to the fact they were never marketed to as kids, while marketers paid attention to the baby boomers, this market emerged, and were somewhat ignored. This generation grew used to advertisements not directed at them. It was also suggested that societal factors are very closely related to the view of each generation on society. For example, Generation Xers saw their parents lose money in the 1980s, therefore, they do not believe in working for the system. Generation, on the other hand, always saw good times. School shootings were the one major event they had to deal with as teenagers. As a

5 JFMM 82 result, they dress similarly to one another to create camaraderie within their schools. Another interviewee suggested that Generation has ``control'' of the marketers, and will be able to obtain any product desired. They said this was the result of marketers missing Generation X and deciding never to miss a market again, therefore, over-marketing to a generation has occurred. In addition, these groups discussed the various personal behaviors and personalities of the markets. An advertising agency executive suggested that Generation X wants everything right now, and is unwilling to wait to purchase expensive, high-end cars or homes. Research limitations The research conducted has recognizable limitations: 1) Limitations of the survey:. Only a convenience sample of Generation X and members was undertaken. These respondents all live within the northwest region of the USA.. Because the surveys were randomly given to high school teachers and professors, and not administered by the author, there is no guarantee these surveys were filled out by the appropriate people, as with any non-administered survey.. Some members of each generation may find certain things as important to them, but may not subconsciously be aware of it. For example, it might actually be important for them to look similar to their friends, but being unaware of this basic need, they may have marked it as unimportant. 2) Limitations of industryinterviews:. Because this is not a qualitative method, results are purely opinions of those people that market to these generations on a regular basis.. Besides opinions of the industry people, the conclusions drawn are the opinions of the author. 3) Limitations of observation:. Observation methods, although generally effective, is only able to take information seen and translate that into an understandable analysis. Because one person does observation, on only a few days in one regional area, could results be skewed. Results Out of the 453 respondents, 111 are categorized as Generation X, and 342 are categorized as Generation. Three were disqualified because they did not fit into either category. A breakdown of the sample by age and gender can be seen in Table I.

6 Data collected indicated that Generation X members' ethnicity were 84.7 percent Caucasian, 6.3 percent African American, 3.6 percent Hispanic, 4.5 percent Asian and less than 1 percent other. Generation had 76.8 percent Caucasian, 9 percent African American, 9.1 percent Hispanic, 3 percent Asian, and 2 percent considered themselves to be other. The other category tending to be Native American. The majority of Generation X has full time jobs, at 90 percent, with the rest obtaining monies from parents or part time jobs. Generation has shown 67.3 percent having a part time job, with the rest obtaining money from parents or school loans. The most popular brand for both generations was Old Navy. Generation X primarily purchases Levi and the Gap. Generation primarily purchases Tommy Hilfiger, American Eagle and Abercrombie and Fitch, respectively. For Generation X, the most popular listed in the ``other'' category was J. Crew, Banana Republic. For Generation, it was Lucky and snowboarding/skating brands see Table II). Each survey listed several questions relating to why respondents shop and why they shop in specific stores. The results are listed in Tables III and IV. Buying motivations for fashion 83 Results and discussion Survey results suggest that Generation prefers brands that represent the ``clean cut, all American'' way of life. Brands such as Tommy Hilfiger and Abercrombie and Fitch, two of the favorite brands rated continually, use advertising campaigns that show members of the same generation having fun at ``all American'' places like the beach and the mall. The Generation members shown in the advertising of the most popular brands are perceived by Age Total n Male Female Male Female 219 Table I. Age and gender breakdown of respondents Generation X Brands Old Navy Levi Gap Other Old Navy Tommy Hilfiger American Eagle Abercrombie and Fitch Table II. Favorite brands, listed in rank order by generation

7 JFMM 84 Table III. Rating of importance for specific importance of items when shopping Question Generation Rating Good music is playing in the store I shop in X Low and medium Low and medium The store I shop in has young, stylish sales associates X Low Low and medium The store has a fun atmosphere X Low and medium Medium My friends are shopping with me X Low and medium Low and medium The store is not very crowded X Evenly split Evenly split The store has some sort of environmental policy in place X Low Low or medium My friends opinion when purchasing something X Low Low and medium Question Generation Rating Table IV. Factors when purchasing clothing, level of importance Comfort of clothes X High High Trendyness of clothes X Medium Medium and high Clothes that match my personal style X High Medium and high Looking similar to friends X Low Low Looking similar to favorite music/movie star X Low Low Looking different from other peers X Low Evenly split The fit of the clothing X High Medium and high Generation members and what the media perceives) to be realistic: nice kids that are respectful and motivated. As a result, successful marketers of fashion will market to generations based on how these generations perceive themselves to be. Generation X choose mostly ``other'' as their favorite brand, listing brands such as J. Crew and Banana Republic. These brands carry business and business casual wear at lower prices than some department stores. These results suggest this generation, now in the workforce, is price conscious, but is still interested in fitting into the ``norm'' of appropriate business wear. To be successful in marketing a brand to this generation, a marketer must take into account price, value for the money and ease of wear. If this survey had been taken while Generation X were teenagers, the results might have been very different. The result might have been brands that represent anti-establishment and anti-normal.

8 Overall, both generations care less about the store environment than the actual merchandise being sold. Both generations rated most of the items in the survey as low importance. However, for both generations, they prefer not to shop in a store that is crowded. As a result, store planners should make aisles larger, less racks of merchandise and easy flow through the store. In the store level, managers should plan for more cashiers and salespeople to give an illusion the store is not crowded. When both generations choose clothing, designers must keep in mind that both generations rate comfort of clothing high. This item was rated of high importance by both generations. The fit of clothing was also rated by both generations as medium and high. This leads to the idea that even though a potential customer may like trendy clothing, they still expect the clothing to fit well and be comfortable. When designing for these two generations, this must be the first and foremost thought on the designer's mind. Despite how these generations seem to dress like various movie stars, neither one cares very much if they look like or dress like a particular person. This should not be used as a primary marketing method for selling clothing. However, both generations rated medium and high for clothing that matches personal style. Clothing marketing should reflect this need for wanting to obtain personal style while still conforming to the norm, such as in the workplace. This can be done with various colors but also can be done with designing accessories that will reflect this personal style while still having the ability to look ``the norm'' for work. The findings of secondary, observational and industry interview research conclude that Generation X, although still portrayed by society and marketers as slackers and rebels, are neither any longer. This generation keeps up on current events and reports their belief in that buying a home is ``part of the American dream,'' unlike the 70 percent of baby boomers and only 72 percent of matures Maguire, 1998). Matures are the generation older than baby boomers, generally above the age of 65. Of the Generation Xers, 22 percent say they are saving up to buy a home Maguire, 1998). Generation X has proved, with the dot.com boom, they are willing to work hard, but by their own rules. Generation X's motivations in purchasing is functionality. They purchase based upon their need for comfort and fit, while personal style is also important. It remains to be seen what Generation will grow up to become. They are determined, motivated workers, and do not mind fitting into the norm, unlike Generation Xers. They buy based upon their motivations to fit in and to have an identity, but it is not forefront in their minds. However, despite this, every generation will grow up and eventually need the same things. For example baby clothing, homes and new cars. These ``adult'' items must fill universal needs, which are needs independent of age. Marketers never would have thought they needed to build advertisements around Generation X's new needs ± the same needs as every adult. Although, when teenagers, each generation will try to reflect their generation, whether Buying motivations for fashion 85

9 JFMM 86 rebellious or ``all-american,'' eventually they all change to need the same things. Advertising to both of these generations will not change, even as their needs change and they grow up. Generation X prefers non-conformist advertising, ones that show something against the system. They also like advertising that is humorous, or shows some kind of unexpected twist. Generation, being career and goal driven, prefer advertising to simply explain the product features, with high quality, fast moving graphics, similar to the lives they lead. They like advertisements showing people getting along or fitting in. The most successful brands will adequately represent the generational need to be individual, but also represent the time, and the events of society. However, once any generation reaches a certain age, needs are very similar, resulting in different advertising for each generation, but similar products. References Cozzalio, Da. 1999), ``Meet Generation '', Businessweek. Howe, N. and Strauss, W. 2000), Millennials Rising, Vintage Books, New ork, N. Maguire, T. 1998), ``Conflicting signals'', American Demographics, November. Strauss, W. and Howe, N. 1991), Generations, William Morrow, New ork, N. Further reading Hicks, R. and Hicks, K. 1999), Boomers, Xers and Other Strangers, Tyndale House Publishers, Wheaton, IL.