The 10 Most Important Things to Do in Milan

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2 Milan September 2013 where tip It s Fashion Time! It s High Fashion time in Milan. The Italian capital of fashion will begin celebrations with Vogue Fashion's Night Out, the late-night shopping jamboree that will animate Milan s most glam fashion streets on 17 September. Conversely, from 18 to 23 September, Milan Fashion Week will kick off with Milano Moda Donna featuring a scintillating host of designer fashion shows and events for fashion friends. the guide 22 shopping Boutiques & Passion Shops Listings Major shopping areas and our choice of the best speciality stores 46 dining Dining Listings Listings type of cuisine 54 entertainment Entertainment & Nightlife Listings The latest information about how to enjoy your stay in Milan 58 Museums & Attractions Museums & Attractions Listings Major sightseeing attractions plus museums and events 60 essentials Transport and useful information Tips for getting around and about in the city 4 The Art of Made-to-Measure A pick of must-visit places where gentleman in the know can get suited and booted! 10 Top in Town Several not-to-be-missed monuments and attractions to visit in Milan 12 Entertainment & Art News and events for you spare time 16 What s New in the City Enter a whole new world of boutiques with the latest openings and breaking news in the city 62 map Milan map Also Inside 07 Calendar 08 Hot Venues 21 Enjoy Lugano 44 Welcome to Brera 50 Golden Restaurants on the cover courtesy of la Rinascente A NEW INTERACTIVE TOUR EXPERIENCE IN DISCOVERY OF LEONARDO Thanks to Where Milan and Milano Loves You, you will be offered an innovative guided tour in the Pinacoteca Ambrosiana. Simply showing our "Where Milan" magazine you can rent free of charge a NFC enabled Samsung Galaxy S III smartphone to visit the world's greatest works of art! FREE WITH WHERE Connect with us online wheretraveler.com Get the city buzz online from our local editors. 1

3 Welcome Milano Loves You Your tr avel ing companion since 1936 where m a g a z i n e RUN WHERE MILAN PROJECT IS ENDORSED BY WHERE MILAN published : Where Italia srl 40 ENJOYABLE MINUTES DEVOTED TO DISCOVERING THE CITY JOINING FORCES TO HELP CHILDREN Via Ezio Biondi, Milano. T: Fax info@wheremilan.com Recommended publisher and editor-in-chief Andrea Jarach (andrea.jarach@wheremilan.com) C lefs d Or C lefs d Or Clefs d Or Le Friday 4 October - 6am Via Dante Chiavi d Oro Associazione Lombarda Portieri d Albergo "Le Chiavi d Oro" editorial (PROEDI COMUNICAZIONE srl) MANAGING DIRECTOR Daniele Misrachi A PROJECT CREATED TO PROVIDE HOME ACCOMMODATION FOR YOUNG CANCER PATIENTS UNDERGOING TREATMENT AT HEALTHCARE FACILITIES IN MILAN EDITORial coordination Luca Podetti MILANO LOVES YOU Alessandra Finzi (redazione@wheremilan.com) magazine EDITORial staff Carey Bernitz, Elena Binda, Stefania Vida (lifestyle and fashion editor) DIGITAL CONTENT MANAGER Alessia Genovese DESIGNER Elisabetta Giudici CONTRIBUTORS & consultants Adriano Caramenti (photographer), Floriana di Maio, Joy Lacanlale, Fabio Lancini, Gaetano Lopez, Giacomo Magistrelli, Andrea Milanesi, Carol Oberman, Simone Pinter, Daria Rosi, David Ross (Hotelerie), Micol Sarfatti, Carolina Scuri, Chiara Tarenzi (city reporter) iconography Tips Images ( CARTOGRAPHY Mario Camerini, Compass Maps Ltd. (UK). City Map: Where Italia srl Original Map Urban File - MARKETING & ADVERTISING Isa Faleschini, Marta Mailhac, Rachele Renna Federico Cavicchioli (Soluzione d Immagine) ADMINISTRATION Katia Greto PRODUCTION & CIRCULATION, SALES SUPPORT COORDINATOR Paola Grilli HOTEL pr SERVICES Maria Granata (maria.granata@wheremilan.com) CUSTOMER SERVICES Cristina Garbini, Maria Grazia Rubino REG. trib. milano no. 453, 19 july 2010 where italia srl, iscritto al roc no del 14 settembre 2010 direttore responsabile: Andrea Jarach Printed Arti Grafiche Mazzucchelli Spa Via CA Bertoncina, 37/ Seriate (BERGAMO) ITALY Where is also published in Rome Tourist Media srl and in Naples IES Comunicazione srl Join us and participate in this initiative of solidarity! For info and donations: EXCLUSIVE GIFT FROM TOP HOTELS Where Milan è distribuito nei migliori hotel di Milano, con camere, Lugano e negli hotel dove sono presenti i Concierge delle Chiavi d Oro. Partners: Where Milan ( - LILT Lega Italiana per la Lotta contro i Tumori - Sezione di Milano ( - Associazione Lombarda Portieri d Albergo Le Chiavi d Oro ( Sponsor: La Settimana della Comunicazione ( Concept and technical coordination: Podisti da Marte ( Where Milan is available in Milan's most exclusive hotels, for the guests of the 27,000 rooms available, Lugano and also in the hotels which boast the Chiavi d'oro Concierges. MORRIS visitor publications MVP EXECUTIVE In 2013 Where Milan will once again be hosting the Where Milan Awards with loads of new initiatives. Stay tuned on font cohin bold Chairman & CEO William S. Morris III S. Morris IV MANAGING DIRECTOR EUROPE Chris Manning President William Where Magazine makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information it publishes, but cannot be held responsible for any consequences arising from errors or omissions. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part is strictly prohibited logo nuovo_35x35.pdf :36:47 proudly together font cohin bold PREFERRED PARTNER logo nuovo_35x35.pdf :36:47 Published in association with C lef s d Or C lefs d Or C lefs d Or Clefs d Or C lefs d Or Clefs d Or Le Le Chiavi d Oro Chiavi d Oro MILANO LOVES YOU MVP Morris Visitor Publications 2 W H E R E m i lan I S e p t em b e r 2013 C lefs d Or C lef s d Or Where magazine and the where logo are registered trademarks of Morris Visitor Publications.

4 where now Milan The month s top entertainment, dining and arts Stefania Vida CLOCKWISE FROM THE LEFT: the new Gucci boutique in Brera dedicated to men s accessories; Guglielmo Miani CEO of Larusmiani and Nicoletta Caraceni of the famous bespoke tailor s shop.» FOCUS The Art of Made-to-Measure Milan is not only the capital of fashion but also of style and the most time-honoured sartorial traditions. Below are a pick of must-visit places where gentlemen in the know can get suited and booted! A Bespoke Outfit for an Impeccable Style Larusmiani boasts a tradition handed down from generation to generation. Originally established as a small atelier in the heart of Milan in 1922, it focuses on immaculate tailoring rigorously handcrafted experts who focus on precision of cut and details to achieve the apex of craftsmanship and luxury. The result is an authentic product that gradually takes shape, detail after detail and which, today, as then, remains faithful to the purest diktats of Made-in- Italy fashion (Via Montenapoleone 7). More than 40 years ago Zilli debuted with its precious sartorial creations and high-class leather goods, several of which have become real must-have items. Nestling in the heart of the Quadrilatero della moda, its Milanese boutique is set against an evocative backdrop, namely the Museo Bagatti Valsecchi building where customers can order made-to-measure garments thanks to a rapid, immaculate service which, in addition to leather goods, is also extended to Made-in-Italy shirts, suits and accessories (Via Gesù 5). Located in the picturesque district of Brera, right in front of the Pinacoteca, Gucci has chosen Milan as the home for its first European men s flagship store. An exclusive space, the Gucci men s store spans more than 500 square metres across three floors and features a large area dedicated to its Made-to-Measure service, customized luxury tailoring for a glam, elegant, modern-day gentleman. It also boasts a Madeto-Order shoe service for bespoke footwear, from the choice of materials, colours and sizes right up to the option of having one s initials engraved (Via Brera 21, corner of via Fiori Chiari 1). Each and every item manufactured Brioni is crafted as if it were unique: an entirely bespoke universe, based on more than 25,000 combinations for a truly customized total look. Each suit involves the work of as many as ten resources, each one specialized in a specific working procedure. Design, stitching, ironing and fittings: each thread is in exactly the right place, each pleat adapted to suit the individual requirements of its wearer (Via Gesù 3). Home to the Ferdinando Caraceni tailor s shop, Via San Marco 22/a is one of the reference points of genuine Milanese style. An artisan workshop in the true sense of the word, here, each garment is still exquisitely handcrafted using only the best British fabrics. Garments typically take two months to produce, from the pattern stages to the meticulous hand ironing of the finished product because, in the words of Nicoletta Caraceni When perfection is your goal, you simply can t rush a detail. THE REFINED FABRICS OF DORMEUIL More than 170 years of research, creativity and innovation bring you the finest fabrics in the world, from Kings to Presidents, from Hollywood celebs to connoisseurs, Dormeuil continues to dress the world s elite with timeless elegance. The brand combines the British heritage of The House of Dormeuil with a sense of innovation, supported years of experience and ongoing know-how (Showroom-store, via Savona 97)

5 where now Milan Calendar September 2013 THIS MONTH in MILAN Another wholly Milanese landmark establishment is Anna Urbano Anna Camiceria who, since 1960, has combined expertise with luxury fabrics to offer an international clientele the utmost in made-tomeasure shirting, When wearing one of my shirts, customers feel satisfied on account of the precision with which it is made; each garment expresses the personality of its wearer (Via Scarpa 11). Corneliani combines high-class tailoring with the pleasure of choosing from among sought-after fabrics produced exclusively for the company. From business suits to dinner jackets right up to morning coats, the entire range encompasses a combination of cuttingedge technology and the expertise of genuine craftsmen. The result is impeccable: an ultra-light structure, a perfect fit and, above all, a totally unique garment because customers can choose from among more than 500 colour variations and 100 luxury fabrics (Via Montenapoleone 26). Ermenegildo Zegna s passion for personalization is translated into creating a perfectly tailored, made-to-measure suit to satisfy the requirements of each and every customer, from the choice of the noblest natural fibres to groundbreaking woven fabrics right up to the attention paid to defining the most appropriate style for each customer. As a final touch, an exclusive label carrying the name of the wearer is attached to each bespoke garment (Via Montenapoleone 27/e). Synonymous with style and elegance since the very beginning, Loro Piana offers its customers an exclusive made-to-measure service encompassing shoes, women s bags (featuring a range of more than 30 colours and the most precious skins), travel accessories and men s footwear. Outerwear, knitwear, suits, coats, shirts and ties can also be customized with a range of innumerable fabrics that are continually updated (Via Montenapoleone 27/c). Sartorial expertise handed down from generation to generation for real «bespoke designs» : this is the underlying philosophy of Rubinacci, a workshop always in search of a made-to-measure style that will highlight its customer s personality, creating exclusive suits and accessories based on the lines of time-honoured sartorial tradition (Via Montenapoleone 18). Tailor-Made Accessories Located in via Sant'Andrea 5, the new Borsalino boutique, now also featuring an exclusive bespoke space, recently opened its doors to the public. The production process that makes Borsalino hats true icons of style, involves over fifty different production stages and an average of six weeks work for each piece of headgear. In Milan, a reference point for lovers of soughtafter accessories is Giòsa Milano - La Bottega del Coccodrillo, featuring unique, handcrafted items, tailor-made to suit individual customer requirements, using precious skins featuring unusual working techniques, ranging from shiny to dull materials in a myriad of different colours (Via Ciovasso 6). Since 1895, luxury footwear brand Berluti has focused on premium-quality, stylish artisan footwear. The result is a highly unique product featuring a blend of quality, comfort and creativity appreciated throughout the world (Via Verri 5). The story of Calzoleria Rivolta is one of wholly Italian elegance. Headquartered at via della Spiga 17, its boutique offers its male clientele supreme quality handmade shoes, created using an innovative digital process: a digital scanner for the accurate sizing of the lasts. Last but not least, Tod's Sartorial, is the new space located on the top floor of the via della Spiga boutique owned Italian luxury shoemaker Tod, where men in the know can discover the ultra-new Sartorial Touch line: a collection that embodies creations handcrafted the maison s artisans which can be customized on request to suit individual requirements (Via della Spiga 22). CLOCKWISE FROM THE LEFT: handcrafted footwear Calzoleria Rivolta; the sartorial art of Zilli; an exclusive model Brioni; Giorgio Santamaria of Giòsa Milano-La Boutique del Coccodrillo. 9 MONDAY MOVIES The Milano Film Festival, now in its 18th edition is scheduled to run until 15 September. CERAMICS: SUNDAY MONDAY TUESDAY WEDNESDAY THURSDAY FRIDAY SUNDAY MONDAY WEDNESDAY THURSDAY FRIDAY SaTURDAY SUNDAY MONDAY SUNDAY MONDAY TUESDAY WEDNESDAY THURSDAY FRIDAY SaTURDAY SUNDAY TUESDAY WEDNESDAY THURSDAY FRIDAY SaTURDAY DUOMO: evening opening of the Terraces of the Duomo, sponsored "restate in Duomo : sunset from the spires of the cathedral (Thurs-Sun, 9am-9pm, until 15 September). DANCE: until 31 October, to mark the bicentenary of the founding of the La Scala Ballet School, CDI in via Saint Bon will host photographic exhibition Album di compleanno. FASHION: Milan s shopping streets come alive for Vogue Fashion s Night Out, an event involving several of the centre s most glam boutiques (p. 1). MUSIC: the 7th edition of MITO SettembreMusica, the musical extravaganza that creates a virtual link between Milan and Turin, makes a comeback (4-21 September, p. 12). ANNIVERSARY: celebrate the bicentenary of Giuseppe Verdi s birth exploring Tracce di Verdi a Milano, a unique exhibition at the Castello Sforzesco, (until 6 January 2014). OPERA: premiere of La scala di seta composer Gioacchino Rossini at Teatro alla Scala (other dates 21, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, 29, 30 September). MOVIES: until today, Reale will host the exhibition Alfred Hitchcock nei film della Universal Pictures, dedicated to the famous Master of the thrill (p. 9). FASHION: last day to venture into the world of fashion with the runway shows of Milano Moda Donna and sneak previews of the forthcoming S/S 2014 collections. ART: at the 1963 e dintorni exhibition currently on show at Gallerie d Italia, 30 works tell the story of one of the most significant years in the history of Italian art (until 27 October). GRAPHICS: Morando hosts Maschere: Identità nascoste, a trip into the world of graphics amidst images and illustrations (until 12 January 2014, p. 59). SCIENCE AND JEWELLERY: visit the exhibit I Diamanti sono stelle at Landriani, headquarter of the Istituto Lombardo Accademia di Scienze e Lettere (until 27 November). FESTIVAL: the International Festival of Jewish Culture starts today, four days dedicated to debates and discussions on universal topics and everyday customs. MODERN ART: Reale hosts Da Matisse a Bacon, more than 80 works from the Musée National d Art Moderne Centre Pompidou (until 9 February 2014, p. 9). EXHIBITION: Da Gerusalemme a Milano. Imperatori, filosofi e dei alle origini del Cristianesimo, Civico Museo Archeologico, until 20 June ARCHITECTURE: last chance to see the winning projects of prestigious architecture competition Mies van der Rohe 2013 (Triennale di Milano, p.59). LEONARDO: head to the Ambrosiana and the Sacrestia del Bramante to see the new chapter of Leonardo's Codex Atlanticus entitled Favole e Facezie, until 8 September. CONTEMPORARY ART: the spaces of Hangar Bicocca present Mike Kelly : installations, videos and sculptures dedicated to the late well-loved American artist (until 8 September). ART: for the first time in Italy, a display of works from the Jonas Netter collection Modigliani e la Scuola di Parigi ( Reale, until 8 September, pages 9, 59 ). PHOTOGRAPHY: black and white stories of Milan and its inhabitants seen through the evocative lens of Gianni Berengo Gardin, at Reale, until 8 September (p. 9). CARS: don t miss the thrilling Formula 1 Gran Prix trials at the Autodromo di Monza s famed racing circuit, 30 min. from Milan (6-7-8 September). SPORT: until tomorrow, head to Reale to see Quelli che... Milan Inter 63, an exhibition dedicated to two football icons Helenio Herrera and Nereo Rocco (p. 9). ECOLOGY: Corso Buenos Aires tributes the environment with the second edition of Festa del Riciclo featuring stalls, workshops and open-air meetings from 10am to 7pm. photos: Apartheid, an exhibition the International Center of Photography in New York about South Africa during the 50 years of Apartheid (at PAC, until 15 September). COMICS: at Reale, Guido Crepax, the first-ever comprehensive exhibition of works renowned Milanese cartoonist, until 15 September (p. 59). ANTIQUES: until 15 September, an unusual display of more than 50 fragments of Egyptian fabrics created between the Hellenist and Medieval ages. Castello Sforzesco. OUT OF TOWN: Bucolica, the fair dedicated to Country Living starts today at picturesque Villa Castelbarco (Vaprio D Adda). A 30 minute trip from Milan (until 15 September, p.12). The Fornasetti showroom in corso Matteotti hosts Il Piatto Forte, an exhibition of '50s-'60s dinner services from the Fornasetti archives (until 14 September). 21 SATURDAY COMICS Be swept away at WOW Spazio Fumetto the Belgio il regno del fumetto exhibition featuring several of the world s best-loved comic strip characters from Tintin to the Smurfs (until 6 October). 24 TUESDAY MODERN Art The exhibition Pollock e gli Irascibili debuts at Reale with 60 masterpieces lent the Whitney Museum in New York (until 16 February 2014, p 9). 6 WHERE milan I September

6 Hot Venues September 2013 THIS MONTH in MILAN MUSEUMS Reale Until 8 September Modigliani, Soutine e gli artisti maledetti. La collezione Netter First-ever showing in Italy. Until 8 September QUELLI CHE... MILAN INTER '63 Until 15 September GUIDO CREPAX Until 22 September ALFRED HITCHCOCK Until 30 September FRANCESCO IODICE From 25 September to 9 February 2014 IL VOLTO DEL 900. Da matisse a bacon Open Mon 2.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Wed, Fri and Sun 9.30am-7.30pm; Thurs and Sat 9.30am-10.30pm. Piazza Duomo, 12. T: Map F5. triennale DESIGN museum Until 8 September 2013 Gae Aulenti Until 23 February th Edition - La sindrome dell'influenza Open Tues-Sun 10.30am-8.30pm; Thurs 10.30am-11pm. Viale Alemagna, 6. M1-M2 Cadorna FN, Map D3. PALAZZO MORANDO COSTUME MODA IMMAGINE Until 8 September VALENTINA CORTESE. UNO STILE 22 September-30 November HAT-OLOGY. ANNA PIAGGI E I SUOI CAPPELLI Open Tues-Sun 9am-1pm/2pm-5.30pm. Free admission. Via Sant Andrea, 6. T: M1 San Babila. Map G4 Morando Fairs September ANTEPRIMA Leather, accessories/components, fabrics and synthetics for footwear, leather goods, clothing and upholstery for Winter AT MICO (FIERAMILANOCITY) September MILANO UNICA The Italian Textile Exhibition. AT FIERAMILANOCITY September MACEF Home International Show. BIJOUX Costume Jewellery Exhibition. AT RHO FAIRGROUNDS FieraMilanoCity September THE MICAM International Footwear Exhibition. MIPEL - THE BAGSHOW International Leathergoods Market. AT FIERAMILANOCITY September MIPAP International presentation of women s prêt-àporter and accessories, S/S AT FIERAMILANOCITY (Via Gattamelata Gate 15) SUPER Exhibition dedicated to accessories and women s prêt-à-porter. AT FIERAMILANOCITY (Piazza VI Febbraio Pad. 3) September FOOD-ING INTERNATIONAL International trade exhibition and conference on food and beverage. AT FIERAMILANOCITY The world s premier opera and ballet house offers a rich program Opening concert of the "MITO SettembreMusica Festival Akademie für Alte Musik Berlin Cappella Amsterdam - Music Franz Joseph Haydn, Johannes Brahms, Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart. Conductor Daniel Reuss. 6, 7, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13 L altra metà del cielo. BALLET. Music and dramaturgy Vasco Rossi (recorded music). 15 Orchestra Sinfonica di Milano Giuseppe Verdi. Concert. Conductor Zhang Xian. Music Pëtr Il ič Čajkovskij, Nikolaj Rimskij- Korsakov, Igor Stravinskij. 20, 21, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, 29, 30 GIOACHINO ROSSINI. La scala di seta. OPERA. Conductor Christophe Rousset. 28 Gala per il bicentenario della Scuola di Ballo dell Accademia Teatro alla Scala. Conductor David Coleman. Ballet Director Frédéric Olivieri. Gran final with the participation of Carla Fracci, Liliana Cosi, Oriella Dorella, Luciana Savignano. From 4 to 21 September Milan and Turin will become one large stage, offering audiences a program brimming over with different genres of music. 209 dates in 99 landmark venues but not only concert halls, auditoriums, churches, squares, courtyards, museums and palaces. Not-to-be missed performances: 5 September AUDITORIUM DI MILANO Orchestra da Camera Italiana. Violin and conductor Salvatore Accardo. Music Saint- Saëns, Britten, Verdi. 9 September TEATRO DEGLI ARCIMBOLDI- Orchestra Filarmonica di San Pietroburgo. Conductor Yuri Temircanov Piano Federico Colli. Music Rachmaninov and Rimskij- Korsakov. 20 September - TEATRO DEGLI ARCIMBOLDI- Orchestra del Maggio Musicale Fiorentino. Conductor Zubin Mehta. Music Schoenberg, Stravinsky. 21 September - TEATRO DEGLI ARCIMBOLDI- Orchestra dell Accademia Nazionale di Santa Cecilia. Conductor Sir Antonio Pappano Cello Mario Brunello. Music Dvorˇák, Beethoven. 8 WHERE milan I September 2013

7 where now Milan Top in town MILANO LOVES YOU The Last Supper Leonardo da Vinci One of the most famous attractions in the world, L Ultima Cena or Cenacolo Leonardo da Vinci is a large 15th century mural painting representing the scene of the last supper of Jesus narrated in the Gospel. It can be found in the church of Santa Maria delle Grazie. Booking required: ask your concierge. Piazza Santa Maria delle Grazie, 2. M1 Conciliazione. Duomo, the symbol of Milan Among one of the most important (and majestic) Gothic buildings in the world, the Duomo, constructed on and off over a period of 450 years (begun 1386) is the symbol of Milan. To experience it at its most majestic you must ascend to the roof (either elevator or steps) where you will be surrounded an outburst of pinnacles, turrets and marble statuary and, naturally, the city s famed golden Madonnina. The cathedral is open daily 8.30am- 6.45pm. Admission free. Piazza Duomo. M1-M3 Duomo. Il Castello The ancient seat of the ruling Visconti, the Castello Sforzesco was later rebuilt Francesco Sforza and is now simply known the Milanese as Il Castello. Demolished and reconstructed several times from 1300 onwards, it has served as the backdrop for numerous historic events. Today, it houses a number of interesting museums and libraries. Its park is a favourite with old and young alike. Open daily 7am-6pm. Free admission. M1-M2 Cadorna FN; M1 Cairoli; M2 Lanza., the living room of the Milanese Sometimes known as the living-room of the Milanese, Vittorio Emanuele II with its elegant, four-storey arcade, housing luxury cafés and famous designer shops, is covered a glass barrel vault and a beautiful glass cupola and measures 196 metres in length. Tradition has it that placing your right heel on the bull, depicted in the mosaic on the floor, and then spinning around inside it, will bring good luck. Piazza Duomo-Piazza della Scala. M1-M3 Duomo. The Opera house The world s premier opera house, built at the behest of Empress Maria Teresa of Austria and designed Piermarini, the Teatro alla Scala was inaugurated in 1778 with an opera Antonio Salieri. Piazza della Scala. M1-M3 Duomo; M3 Montenapoleone. Ambrosiana, all about Leonardo The Ambrosiana picture gallery contains several exquisite works of art from the 15th through 17th centuries and includes The musician, attributed to Leonardo, Raphael s cartoon for the School of Athens fresco and Caravaggio s Basket of fruit. The Ambrosiana library will be exhibiting Leonardo s entire Codex Atlanticus until 2015, 44 or 45 pages at a time for three months at a stretch. Piazza Pio XI, 2. M1-M3 Duomo, M1 Cordusio. Science and technology The Museo Nazionale della Scienza e della The Last Supper Vittorio Emanuele II Tecnologia Leonardo da Vinci is one of the most important museums of science and technology in the world. Its collections, featuring cars, aircraft, ships, scooters, trains, reconstructions of ancient workshops for metalworking, explore the relationship between men and machines starting from Leonardo da Vinci. Don t miss a visit to the new Must Shop. della Permanente Via San Vittore, 21. M2 Sant Ambrogio. Castello Sforzesco DELL ARTE Dugnani Aquario Civico La Triennale PAC C Teatro Strehler Moriggia GAM Museo Civico di Storia Naturale Milan's Street 900 METRI of Art LINEARI Pinacoteca di Brera Following the opening of Cantiere del 900, PINACOTECA DI BRERA a new section of the Gallerie PALAZZO di Piazza CITTERIO Scala, Citterio TEATRO DELLA SCALA Castello Sforzesco Milan has been enriched GALLERIE a new D ITALIA art circuit PALAZZO MARINO featuring the city s three GALLERIA main museum VITTORIO EMANUELE hubs: Teatro della Scala Museo Poldi Pezzoli DUOMO Morando the Pinacoteca di Brera, PALAZZO the Gallerie REALE d'italia Teatro Dal Verme Museo di Storia Contemporanea MUSEO DEL 900 in piazza della Scala and the civic complex Gallerie d Italia Litta Piccolo Teatro consisting of Reale and the Museo Chiesa di San Babila Marino del Novecento. An itinerary extending over Santa Maria delle Grazie 900 metres, that can be crossed on foot in just Museo Archeologico Vittorio Emanuele 15 minutes, from via Brera to piazzetta Reale, Duomo della Ragione cutting through piazza Scala and the, which hosts an extraordinary part of our Biblioteca Ambrosiana Museo country s art history. 900 Reale Biblioteca Chiesa di Sant Ambrogio Sormani 10 WHERE milan I September 2013 Museo Nazionale della Scienza

8 where now Milan ENTERTAINMENT & Art Music in the City The 7th edition of MITO SettembreMusica, the musical extravaganza that creates a virtual link between Milan and Turin, will run from 4 to 21 September. Throughout this month, theatres, auditoriums, churches, courtyards and squares will be awash with a host of performances, transforming both cities into a huge stage. A rich events calendar, featuring classical music, from past to present times, but also jazz, rock, singer-songwriter performances, electronic music and lots more besides. Zubin Mehta Sir Antonio Pappano MUSIC VICOLUNGO THE STYLE OUTLETS: ENJOY THE FASHION STYLE EXPERIENCE. DISCOUNTS FROM 30% TO 70% Orchestra da Camera Italiana Salvatore Accardo Formula 1 Rev Up Racing enthusiasts should make sure to pencil in the 6th, 7th and 8th of September in their diaries for Monza s Formula 1 Grand Prix event. Each year, thousands of visitors flock to Monza s temple of speed to see the start of this amazing race, as the magnificent F1 cars battle it out on this world-famed circuit for a win during the Italian stage of the world Formula 1 Racing Championships. Country Living Located at a distance of just 30 minutes from Milan, the stunning Villa di Castelbarco (Vaprio d Adda) will act as an evocative backdrop to Bucolica - la Fiera del Vivere Country. This unmissable cultural and bucolic event will be held from 13 to 15 September in a bid to raise awareness about the philosophy, style and atmospheres of country life. Visitors will have a chance to savour the spirit of the event in all of its different forms, from the more classic British one to the refined offerings of Provence right up to the marked flavours of Spain and the more familiar ones of Tuscany. GREEN thestyleoutlets.com Associazione di Via - tel Exhibition with worldwide premieres and multimedia stations in italian and English Produced Leonardo3 il mondo di leonardo Until February 28, 2014 Milan Piazza della Scala at the entrance of Vittorio Emanuele Audio guide in Chinese, English, French, German, Italian and Russian Award of Excellence With patronage of Sponsor Official radio Exhibition Space Media Partner Ticketing OPENING HOURS Daily 10 am 11 pm INFO: SHOPS OF MANY PRESTIGIOUS BRANDS AS: Armani, Baldinini, Borbonese, Botticelli, Class Roberto Cavalli, CK Jeans, Colmar, Elisabetta Franchi, Enrico Coveri, Fabi Shoes, Frette, Gap, Geox, Guess Marciano, La Martina, Massimo Rebecchi, Missoni, Pollini, Salomon, Swarovski, The North Face, Timberland, Tommy Hilfiger, Twin-Set. 30 minutes from Milan and Malpensa airport. Daily Shuttle service from Milan to Vicolungo The Style Outlets and back. Booking on - infoline Open 7 days a week, from 10 a.m. to 8 p.m. A4 MI-TO motorway, exit Biandrate/Vicolungo A26 Genova Voltri - Gravellona Toce motorway 12 WHERE milan I September 2013

9 where now Milan SHOPPING la Rinascente: For Real Shoe Lovers Since time immemorial fashion has served as a means of expression, creativity and interpretation. In Milan, the exclusive spaces of la Rinascente in Piazza Duomo are the ideal venue for a one-stop shopping experience. For example, its third floor hosts a brand-mix of classic, ready-towear styles and an exclusive area dedicated to footwear, a must-visit shopping destination for women in the know. Its space given over to Ready-to-Wear includes a collection of brands highlighting a contemporary though timeless urban style featuring iconic designer labels of the calibre of Burberry, Polo Ralph Lauren, Fay, Piazza Sempione, Class Cavalli, Versace Collection, Seventy and Gerard Darel. Milano, Piazza Duomo Open daily T: M1-M3 Duomo. Map F4 Focus on THE WORLD AT YOUR FEET The point of pride of the third floor of la Rinascente in piazza Duomo is its 800 square metre space dedicated to footwear where you can find the perfect shoe for all occasions. No other shoe department in Italy boasts such a large space as this hip fashion arena offering a rich selection of covetable, high-end footwear brands, considered a cult object women the world over. Here you can find the coolest styles of the new collections of several of the most exclusive Italian and international brands thanks to special dedicated corners featuring iconic items the likes of Jimmy Choo, Gucci, Giuseppe Zanotti Design, Sergio Rossi, Dolce&Gabbana, Ferragamo, Tod s, Hogan, Gianvito Rossi, Burberry, Fendi, Chloè, Lanvin, Balenciaga, Bottega Veneta, Valentino, René Caovilla, Repetto and Kurt Geiger. Exclusive department store: one-stop shop Floor -1 Design Supermarket Groundfloor Boundless Beauty, Fashion Accessories and Jewellery Balcony Mezzanine Luxury Accessories Floor 1 Men's fashion collections Sneaker Zone Step into style! Floor 2 Men's formal attire Floor 3 For her: new classic outfits, ready-towear and the most exclusive Shoe Area in the city Floor 4 The Heart of all that is women s fashion Floor 5 Lingerie collections and styles for kids Floor 6 A home full of enchantment Floor 7 Food hall with a view Casual & Jeans Area Room for casual-chic 14 WHERE milan I SEPTEMBER 2013

10 where now Milan What s New in the City Stefania Vida, lifestyle&fashion editor Gucci in the Heart of Brera Located in the picturesque district of Brera, right in front of the Pinacoteca, Gucci has chosen Milan as the home for its first European flagship store dedicated entirely to men. An exclusive space, the Gucci men s store spans more than 500 square metres across three floors and features a large area dedicated to its Made-To- Measure service, customized luxury tailoring for a glam, elegant, modern-day gentleman. It also boasts a Made-to-Order shoe service for bespoke footwear, from the choice of materials, colours and sizes right up to the option of having one s initials engraved. Via Brera 21, corner of via Fiori Chiari 1. T: Map F3 Double spaces for Pinko in Milan Hot on the heels of the recent opening of a store on via Montenapoleone, cool young fashion label Pinko has now opened another exclusive space in the heart of Milan in corso Vittorio Emanuele corner of San Carlo. The new shop features all the collections of the brand together with the ultimate in edgy styles. Corso Vittorio Emanuele, corner of San Carlo. Map G4 The Oriental Mall The first Chinese mall in Milan, spread out over five floors and boasting as many as two in-house supermarkets, recently opened its doors to the public on via Palo Sarpi. The ground floor has a corner dedicated to clothing, accessories, toys and high-tech gadgets as well as a pasticceria and bar. The second floor (still under construction) will be devoted entirely to wellness, with on-site amenities including a yoga room, a beauty centre, a tearoom and a restaurant serving Chinese and Italian cuisine. Via Paolo Sarpi, 33. Map E2 Sebastian in the Quadrilatero The historic high-end footwear brand has opened a new boutique in Milan s famed and fabled Quadrilatero at number 12 via Sant Andrea. The concept of its flagship store carries the signature of renowned architect Matteo Pierotti. Its spaces exude a feeling of glamour and contemporary elegance, highlighted Roman travertine stone floors, lacquered wood and etched brass and steel finishes. Via Sant Andrea, 12. M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4 AND MORE... Cloister Revolving design Via Manzoni 30 (c/o It s 30) M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4 Grom Old-world ice cream Piazza Gae Aulenti M2 Garibaldi FS. Map F2 Moncler Quilted jackets and trendy apparel Via Montenapoleone, 1 M1 San Babila. Map G4 Muji Unadulterated Japanese style Piazza Gae Aulenti, 8 M2 Garibaldi FS. Map F2 Pantone concept store Brightly coloured trendy design Corso Magenta, 5 M1 Cadorna. Map E4 Quality Beef For discerning carnivores Viale Pasubio, 8 M2 Moscova. Map E2 Sephora Beauty specialists Piazza Gae Aulenti, 6 M2 Garibaldi FS. Map F2 Stefan Hafner Exclusive Italian jewellery (Showroom) Via Borgonuovo, 10 M3 Montenapoleone. Map F3 BREAKING NEWS QUADRILATERO Bottega Veneta Via Sant Andrea Hermès Via Montenapoleone FENDI Via Montenapoleone Sonata Streamline Self-winding. Patented manufacture movement with Silicium technology and 24 hour alarm and countdown. Titanium case with ceramic bezel. Also available with 18ct gold bezel. PISA OROLOGERIA Via Pietro Verri (ang. Montenapoleone 9) - Milano T GIOIELLERIA ROCCA Piazza Duomo 25 - Milano T WHERE milan I SEPTEMBER 2013

11 Zani Viaggi City tour Zani Via Out of t ggi own These pages are kindly sponsored Zani Viaggi The Famedio at the entrance of the Monumental Cemetery Monumental Cemetery Bergamo Città Alta, Bergamo Unique Funerary Art A Trip Back to the Middle Ages Cimitero Monumentale is considered a real open-air museum of funerary art. In fact, many of the tombs belong to noted industrial dynasties and were designed Italian sculptors of the calibre of Arnaldo Pomodoro and Medardo Rosso. The tour includes a visit to the Famedio, a massive Hall-of-Fame-like Pantheon of particular artistic and cultural importance that contains the tombs of some of the country and city s most honoured citizens, including that of the novelist Alessandro Manzoni. Don t miss a visit to the near town of Bergamo and its sensational Città Alta, the old walled town fortified the Venetians. Stroll through its circuitous streets amidst small artisanal shops. The area is also replete with numerous bars and restaurants in a fascinating Medieval atmosphere. You can also combine this tour with the CitySightseeing tour (line C, bus stop nr. 4 Monumentale) TOURS CITY IL A D & URY SIONS EXC MILAN TOURS GUIDE m ilano.co Discover the Zani Viaggi city tours, shopping and excursions outside Milan. You have just to choose! Available in the best hotels, tourist offices and on tourist buses. ni Escursio ttà ci e visite Città Alta, Bergamo You will discover the lush vegetation that surrounds the Città Alta. This area, a part of the Colli di Bergamo Nature Park, is home to a number of magnificent villas, estates, gardens and woods offering different and breathtaking landscapes at every turn. The tomb of Isabella Casati Bergamo Monumental Cemetery pm 2.00pm Departure bus from Zani Viaggi travel agency (Foro Bonaparte, 76). Departure bus from Zani Viaggi travel agency (Foro Bonaparte, 76). Bus transfer to Cimitero Monumentale with a tour of the most significant monuments. 3.00pm Arrival in Bergamo and scenic bus tour to the Città Alta, walking tour through the historic centre and free time. 6.00pm Departure from Bergamo. 4.30pm Return bus to Zani Viaggi travel agency. 7.00pm Arrival in Milan, Zani Viaggi travel agency. Every Sunday, all year-round Every Monday, all year-round Piazza Vecchia and della Ragione Zani Viaggi - Foro Bonaparte 76 corner of via Cusani. Map E4. T: M1 Cairoli-M2 Lanza W H E R E m i lan I S e p t em b e r 2013 La Scala Shop Zani Viaggi - Foro Bonaparte 76 corner of via Cusani. Map E4. T: M1 Cairoli-M2 Lanza w w w. w heretravel er. com 19

12 Enjoy Lugano BUCHERER - Via Nassa 56, T: , www. bucherer.com CASINÒ DI CAMPIONE - Piazzale Milano 2 (Campione d Italia - CO), T: CASINÒ DI LUGANO - Via Stauffacher 1, T: , E.MARINELLA Via della Posta, 2 corner of via Canova, T: , wwwmarinellanapoli.it FOX TOWN - Via A. Maspoli 18, T: , HSL HIC SUNT LEONES - c/o Balmelli Sport, Via Pioda, 10 and c/o Zappa Sport Team, Via Peri, LES AMBASSADeurs - via Nassa 5, T: , SOCIETà NAVIGAZIONE LAGO DI LUGANO Viale Castagnola 12, T: , SWISSMINIATUR Melide, T: , Located just 70 kilometres from Milan, the city of Lugano will surprise you with its natural beauties and wide array of shopping and entertainment venues at all times of the day Taking things slowly is an absolute must in Lugano. In fact, it is only strolling leisurely that one is able to discover several of the old city s best kept secrets and hidden corners. Exclusive shopping When talking about shopping in Lugano, one immediately thinks about via Nassa, a reference point for luxury boutiques, including historic jewellers Bucherer whose name, since 1888, has been synonymous with stunning high-precision timepieces and jewellery, and the splendid Les Ambassadeurs boutique. In via della Posta 2, corner of via Canova, you can find the E. Marinella store, a brand known throughout the world for its stylish, hand-made neckties, worn heads of state, industrial magnates and celebrities. E. Marinella has recently opened its sixts single-brand boutique in the world, in Baku (Azerbaijan). At Balmelli Sport and Zappa Sport Team, you can find the HSL Hic Sunt Leones collections, the well-known Milanese street-minded brand of backpacks, bags and contemporary, glam accessories. Finally, for an exclusive shopping experience, we suggest a trip to the renowned FoxTown Outlet in Mendrisio, boasting more than 160 boutiques carrying several of the world s most important haute couture labels at prices discounted from 30 to 70%. Bucherer High-Class Watches Since the very beginning, in the world of Haute Horologerie and Jewellery, the name of Carl.F. Bucherer has been synonymous with style and exclusivity. Thanks to its unique, innovative design, the Patravi Travel Tec GMT is a perfect example. Standout features include: 46.6mm stainless steel case with a black dial which displays chronograph, date and three time zones. Water resistance is 50 meters. Self winding movement with a 42 hour power reserve, black calf strap and stainless steel folding clasp. Via Nassa HOW TO REACH LUGANO By car. From Milan take the A9 autostrada dei Laghi in the direction of Como-San Gottardo, or the A8 autostrada in the direction of Varese-Stabio (Gaggiolo). By train. Trains depart daily both from Milan s Central Station and Porta Garibaldi FS. Info and By bus. FoxTown Outlet Mendrisio: Zani Viaggi, Foro Bonaparte left and below The Patravi Travel Tec GMT Bucherer; the E. Marinella boutique in Lugano 21

13 the guide Shopping where Prada Expands its Presence in the The historic couture house recently inaugurated its new space in the heart of Milan, in Vittorio Emanuele II. The new Prada will have a flexible layout and a new sales space, the Fondazione Prada, areas for events and the headquarters of the Prada Group. In July, Prada launched the first phase of the project which included the renovation of an entire quadrant of the facing the historic central intersection diagonally adjacent to the existing Prada store. The new, recently inaugurated shop on the ground floor is dedicated to its men s collections. While the space is designed to reflect the elegance and sophistication of the original shops, it also benefits from the advanced retail technology systems that Prada has developed throughout its global retail network. Vittorio Emanuele II. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F4 Guidelines This directory, grouped category, is a list of establishments recommended the editors of Where Magazine and includes regular advertisers. The most popular luxury brands and designers stores are grouped under the separate lisiting Top Brands, which can be found on page MAP LOCATIONS Note that references in bold at the end of each listing (A1, B5 etc) refer to the coordinates on the street maps on pages INFORMATION Visitors should note that VAT is generally 21% and it is generally included in the price of goods. Before finalizing a purchase, overseas visitors from outside the EU should ask the shop assistant whether they are eligible for a tax refund. Shopping hours are generally from 9.30am to 7.30pm; less centrally located shops still take the traditional lunch break from 12.30pm or 1pm to 3pm or 4pm. Most shops are closed on Sundays (except those located in central Milan) and on Monday mornings. Make sure to always check ahead. Several unusual shops, stocking items and rarities for collectors and aficionados in specific product categories, are listed under Passion Shopping rather than in the standard Shopping sections. SERAPIAN A story of passion, creative genius and craftsmanship, an exclusive name in high-class leather goods. Serapian boasts two locations: an atelier in via Jommelli, where, since 1945 all of its collections are produced, and a boutique in via della Spiga. The latter offers a special made to order service for those in search of high-class objects whose every detail can be customized. Its hallmark features are unique, exclusive made-to-measure products exuding a sense of low-key luxury. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Via della Spiga, 42. T: M3 Montenapoleone. Map G3 VILLA MEISSEN Drawing thousands of visitors all over the world each year, Meissen has created a unique life-style experience with home, fine art, porcelain, accessories, and the most recent Meissen Joaillerie collection, combining a meld of exclusive materials such as porcelain, gold and precious stones, exemplifying the brand's supreme craftsmanship. This 300 year-old German luxury brand has recently refurbished Casa Carcassola- Grandi as the location for its stunning European Flagship store. Open Mon-Sat 10.30am-7.30pm. Via Montenapoleone, 3. T: M1 San Babila. Map G4 Books & Magazines La Feltrinelli Express A brand new sales point extending over 2500 sq.m. located inside the Stazione Centrale. Spread out over several floors, it offers books, CDs, DVDs, multimedia items, stationery and the largest selection of paperbacks in the city in original language versions. On the ground floor, dedicated to travelers, you can find an international newsstand and a wide selection of guides and books on art and local history. The second floor is given over to infants and children while the third, boasting original frescoes from the Thirties, offers a selection of 65 thousand books, CDs, DVDs and games. The top floor is used for presentations and events. Open Mon-Sun 7am- 10pm. Stazione Centrale. T: M1-M3 Centrale. Map G2 Children s Clothing & Toys Miki House Superb quality and unique style are the hallmarks of this Japanese house of children s fashion and style. Every collection is conceived with the child in mind. Fashioned in workshops in Japan, the clothing is made from fine fabrics and imbued with practical, functional, and unique touches. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Via Montenapoleone, 8 entrance from via Sant Andrea. T: M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4 Clothing - Men & Women Shopping Animal House Contemporary menswear stocking a wide selection of international brands - Blauer, Blundstone Shoes, B.D. baggies, Ganesh, Hartford - at this store created as an offshoot of Host (see listing). Animal House is gradually becoming a new destination address for men in the know. Open Mon 3pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7.30pm. Via A. Saffi, 7. T: M1 Conciliazione, M1-M2 Cadorna. Map D4 Aspesi Likes to define its style as basic, with a twist. The cult brand, created in 1990 fashion veteran Alberto Aspesi, features quirky, tailored lines, elegant details and natural materials. His current collections are still based on the original no-frills philosophy and will appeal to all those who like their outerwear without flashy labels. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Via Montenapoleone, 13. T: M1 San Babila, M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4 FEDELI This flagship store, located in via Montenapoleone since 1946, showcases men and women casual clothes which blend tradition and research to render each garment with a sense of elegance and sophistication. The company s passion for top quality, elegant design and its devotion to individual customer requirements makes it a symbol of pure, high-class Made in Italy fashion. English, French, German and Spanish spoken. Fedeli has recently opened a new boutique in Seoul (South Corea). Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7pm. and www. fedelimontenapoleone.it. Via Montenapoleone, 8. T: M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4 For more detailed listings, please see Accessories AGENT PROVOCATEUR Irreverent lingerie brand, Agent Provocateur has chosen via Verri for its Italian debut. The seductive elegance, typical of the boutique, tempts customers into a playfully evocative area, dominated the brand s signature colours black and pink. Open Mon-Sat 10.30am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7pm. Via Pietro Verri, 1. T: M1 San Babila. Map F4 Angela Caputi Giuggiù The brand is renowned throughout the world. Sophisticated, original creations made from unusual materials such as plastic and resin, combined to create unique objects both in terms of colour and shape. Her creations have been used as accessories famous television and film producers. The accessory as a focal point, capable of creating a look or dressing up any type of garment. A magical blend of contemporary and classical taste. A dream well worth the wearing. Open Tues-Sat 10am-1pm/2.30pm-7.30pm. Via Madonnina, 11. T: M2 Lanza. Map F4 Borsalino Historic Italian company synonymous with hats the world over. Each piece is an unrepeatable masterpiece, created with an artisan touch, the result of in-depth research that harmonizes fabrics, materials and colours. Open Mon-Tues 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm; Wed-Sun 10am- 7pm. Vittorio Emanuele II, 92. T: M1-M3 Duomo. Map G4 Furla Contemporary luxury and a discreet, elegant style. A wide assortment of exclusively Made-in- Italy items: bags, footwear, belts, luggage, costume jewellery and jewellery. A perfect example of timehonoured Italian artisan tradition. The chain has other stores in Milan. Open Mon-Sun 10am-7.30pm. Piazza Duomo, 31. T: M1-M3 Duomo. Map F4 Henry Beguelin A Made-in-Italy brand of leather accessories, established on the Island of Elba at the beginning of the 1980s, has opened a new Milanese store in via Montenapoleone 9. In addition to various leather goods collections, the first floor houses a sort of museum showcasing the bags that have made the brand an icon of style. Open Tues-Sun 10am-7pm; Mon 3.30pm-7pm. Via Montenapoleone, 9. T: M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4 PUNTO OTTICO HUMANEYES For more than twenty years, it has boasted a wealth of experience in optometry, collaborating with several leading brands in the industry and using to work with international visitors in Milan. Its selection of different eyewear lines is based on the purest diktats of design and the artisanal rigour of handcrafted items, with painstaking attention being paid to each and every aspect of the production process right up to the creation of frames customized in an array of the most diverse, highly sought-after materials: from natural horn to buffalo to titanium, from gold to eco-sustained wood from Alto Adige. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Thurs- Sat 10am-7pm. Piazza F. Meda, 3. T: M1 San Babila. Map F4 Where covers more than 100 global travel destinations, from Singapore to San Francisco, LA to London, Miami to Milan and great places in between. SPOTLIGHT Perfect Style Located in the Quadrilatero of Milanese fashion, Borgospesso 11 is a one-of-a-kind location dedicated to high-end shopping. An exclusive reference point for Made-in-Italy luxury designer fashion. Two floors devoted to men and women s wear featuring a wide choice of garments and accessories for all occasions plus a collection of the ultimate in footwear. A perfect meld of art, fashion, design and beauty. The store is set within a unique ambience, furnished with particular attention to energy saving and the use of technologically advanced systems. Via Borgospesso, 11. T: M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4 22 WHERE MILAN I September