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1 Milan

2 2 How to get around 3 1 MILAN: USER S GUIDE HOW TO GET AROUND Thanks to Milan s efficient transport network, public means of transport are the easiest and fastest way to get to every part of the city.taxis are convenient but very expensive, while you are advised not to use your car as city car parks are few and far between and traffic in rush hour is often congested. UNDERGROUND Milan has three underground lines, each distinguished by a different colour, which criss-cross most of the city linking one suburb to another.they are the M1, the M2 and the M3.The underground is definitely the fastest, cheapest and most practical means of transport and also the most efficient as it allows you to reach most neighbourhoods quickly and cheaply. M1 (Red Line) crosses Milan from the northern suburbs to the city centre and, branching off in two directions at Pagano station, heads west to Bisceglie and north-west to Rho-Fiera. M2 (Green Line) crosses Milan from south to north east and connects the city s major railway stations: from north to south, Lambrate, Central Station, Porta Garibaldi, Cadorna (station of the Ferrovie Nord) and Porta Genova. M3 (Yellow Line) crosses Milan from the north (Piazzale Maciachini) to the south (San Donato). It links Central Station with Piazza Duomo and via Montenapoleone. Where you can change line. M1-M2: Cadorna and Loreto; M1-M3: Duomo; MM2-MM3: Central Station. BUSES AND TRAMS ATM offers citizens and tourists a network of public transport made up of approximately 119 tram, trolley-bus and bus lines. All in all, in addition to the service provided by the underground, the network extends for almost 1,500 km and connects 86 neighbouring towns. TIMETABLES The beginning and end of the service varies depending on what type of service it is. TIMETABLES The service begins at 6 a.m. and ends at a.m. Trains run on Sundays and holidays too.there is a train every 2 minutes at rush hour and every 4-5 minutes during the rest of the day. INFO AND ATM POINT The official web-site where you can find all the information you need is You can also ask for information at the ATM POINT in Duomo station, M1-M3, Central Station M2-M3, Loreto station M1-M2 and Romolo station M2. (Mon-Sat 7.45 a.m p.m.) In the city: Circular lines 29/30 and 90/91. 29/30 run from a.m. to a.m.; 90/91 run 24/24h. Trams run from a.m. to a.m.; Buses run from a.m. to a.m. Average wait varies between 3-6 minutes at rush hour and 6-10 minutes at other times of the day. Outside the city transport operates from a.m. to 12-1 a.m. with the average wait varying between minutes at rush hour and minutes during the rest of the day. RADIOBUS ATM has created a dial-up bus service, ideal for getting to places in the evening. The service operates between 8.00 p.m. and 2.00 a.m. Like a taxi (but costing a great deal less) the bus picks up passengers and takes them wherever they want to go. BI4 - TICKET VALID FOUR 4 JOURNEYS This is ideal for tourists who are staying in the city for one or two days and for those who use public transport in the evenings, in their free time or on Sundays and holidays. It may be used for 4 journeys. Each journey lasts for 75 minutes from the time the ticket is punched. On ATM lines only on Sundays and holidays, it is valid until 1.00 p.m. if it has been previously punched; in the evenings it is valid until the buses stop running if it has been punched after 8.00 p.m. It must be punched at the beginning of each journey. When you book you must state the time and the route. To book call or send a text message to (from 3 days in advance up to 6 p.m. on the day you require the service) or by sending an e- mail (also from 3 days in advance and up to 6 p.m. on the day you require the service). Supplementary Radiobus tickets can be purchased from all ATM points of sale. They cost 1.50 Euros if you purchase them in a dealer and you have an ordinary ticket or a season ticket; they cost 2 Euros if you purchase them on board the bus and you have an ordinary ticket or a season ticket; they cost 3 Euros if you purchase them on the bus and you don t have an ordinary ticket or a season ticket. TICKETS AND SEASON TICKETS Travel documents, season tickets and ordinary tickets can be purchased from the ATM POINT, news-stands and tobacconists. Since the 1 st of January 2005 paper travel cards have been replaced with the innovative system of automatic and electronic ticketing which foresees the gradual substitution of current travel documents with magnetic tickets and electronic passes which will allow access to an integrated network, comprising ATM, LeNord ( and Trenitalia. For more information, On Trenitalia, LeNord and the underground railway link it expires 75 minutes after it has been punched. On the underground, FNME and the underground railway link you must always punch your ticket or show it to the controller. 1 OR 2 DAY PASS This may be used for hours from when it is punched on the city transport network, on all ATM,Trenitalia, LeNord and underground railway link routes. It has to be punched at the beginning of the first journey, after which it must be shown to the controller. No ID is necessary.

3 4 Milan: User s Guide Useful information 5 TAXI Taxis, which are white, are a comfortable and fast way to travel around the city.the only drawback is the rapidly ticking meter.there is an extra charge on Sundays and holidays, at night and for luggage. TAXI RANKS There are many taxi ranks stationed around the city. Major taxi ranks in the centre include: Piazza del Duomo Piazzale Cadorna Piazza Cordusio Piazza Duca D Aosta Garibaldi Station (via Sturzo) RADIOTAXI Radiotaxis start the meter running as soon as they receive your call. Taxi Blu, Autoradiotaxi, Yellow Taxi, Amico Taxi, CALL A CAB Milan City Council and Telecom Italia have devised a telephone number for dialling taxis parked at taxi ranks in Milan. Calling from any land line the caller is connected with the taxi rank closest to the place he is calling from. The number is The caller will pay the cost of a local call only if his request is satisfied. CARS In Milan cars are definitely not the most convenient means of transport, mainly due to the traffic, which is particularly chaotic in rush hour. For traffic information consult the web-site of the Milanese Traffic and Environment Agency, an organisation which, working on behalf of Milan City Council, does research into and provides practical solutions to traffic problems; or the City Council web-site For traffic updates in real time call freephone TRAFFIC Many zones in the centre are Zone a Traffico Limitato (ZTL) or Limited Traffic Zones and are off limits to cars. In some of these, such as Piazza Duomo, Piazza Cordusio and Via Manzoni (from Via Pisoni to Piazza della Scala) cars are not permitted to circulate at all while in others, such as Corso Garibaldi, Corso Como, Porta Ticinese and San Siro, access is only permitted to residents. For an up-to-date list of all ZTLs contact the Polizia Municipale on or consult the Milan City Council web-site ( CAR PARKS In areas which are designated by yellow lines, parking is reserved for vehicles belonging to residents who must display a special disc issued by the City Council. EXCLUSIVE CAR RENTAL Full optional cars, including satellite navigation systems and fully qualified chauffeurs, able to drive you anywhere in Italy and Europe; luxury cars, hatch backs vehicles, and up to 16 seater minibuses.the fleet is authorised to drive in restricted car lanes and Limited Traffic Zones (ZTL). Antonello Amadori Autonoleggio Via Aldo Moro 15/s - Settimo Milanese , for bookings USEFUL INFORMATION Known to most people as a cold business city, dedicated to industry, Milan has a secret side which reveals itself gradually. It is a lively and stimulating city with a rich cultural tradition from elegant galleries to museums, and from theatres to will be both enchanted and intrigued. Here is some useful information to help you enjoy a perfect stay in Milan. TOURIST INFORMATION OFFICE To get detailed information about the city you can try the IAT offices, run by Provincia di Milano. Here you can find booklets, brochures and a list of all accommodation in Milan. IAT - Ufficio Informazioni e Accoglienza Piazza Duomo 19/A, , it Mon-Fri 8.45 a.m p.m. and p.m.; Sat and Sun 9.00 a.m p.m. and 2.00 p.m p.m. IAT office at Central Station, Piazza Duca D Aosta 1 (Galleria delle Partenze), /9, Mon-Sat 8.00 a.m p.m, Sun 9.00 a.m p.m. and 1.30 p.m p.m. The IAT offices produce informative and promotional materials.they organise visits and excursions to promote tourism and provide informations and an accommodation booking service. Comune di Milano Ufficio Turismo Via Silvio Pellico 6, /5711/ 5712, Mon-Fri 9.00 a.m p.m. and 1.30 p.m p.m. A SPECIAL WELCOME They work with IAT producing publications of cultural interest and of interest to tourists.they also organise events. Informa Giovani Cascina Cattabrega, Via Trasimeno 49, , Wed and Thurs 3.30 p.m p.m., giovani Via Laghetto 2, / 1, Mon-Thurs 2.00 p.m p.m., Fri 1.00 p.m p.m. Vicolo Calusca 10 (corso di Porta Ticinese 106), /1, Mon a.m p.m.,wed-fri 2.00 p.m p.m. Informa Giovani examines the various opportunities available to young tourists. It is also an invaluable source of information for young people who are intending to study, work and explore opportunities in social, cultural and free time ambits. To make your stay as enjoyable as possible, Meeting Milano (realized through the collaboration of Comune di Milano, Fiera Milano, Camera di Commercio di Milano, Unione del Commercio, Provincia di Milano, SEA Aeroporti Milano) gives you access to the very best of the city and region: hotel reservations; tourist information; chauffeur driven car hire; restaurant reservations; sightseeing and cultural tours; plane, train and boat tickets. Information points: Malpensa airport (Terminal 1, Arrivals, gate 5) 365 days a year, 7am-11pm Linate airport (Arrivals) 365 days a year, 7am-11pm Fiera Milano available when fairs are taking place , fax ; -



6 10 From Cadorna to Duomo, in the shadow of Leonardo 11 2 AN INVITATION TO MILAN Milan and its centre. Or rather: Milan is its centre.we are left with no other choice. Having to describe the city in just a few pages we are forced to concentrate on this microcosm, the heart of which is the Duomo or cathedral and where, down the centuries, layer upon layer of history, art, finance and fashion have created an ideal spot for some hypothetical core sampling, which might yield up, in the blink of an eye, fragments and essences of this great polyhedral and polymorphous city. 2.1 go out in the evening to the theatre or to hear live music or to have a delicious meal.though the average of Milanese restaurants is a little disappointing there are some sublime culinary experiences to be had. If you can make it a long weekend you can vary your agenda by alternating concerts, cinema or a night in a disco. FROM CADORNA TO DUOMO, IN THE SHADOW OF LEONARDO MILAN IN A DAY The natural pace of Milan may help, but it is certainly hard to imagine that even the most frantic traveller might succeed in getting an idea of the city in just 24 hours. However, Milan has an advantage and that is that it has the highest concentration of things worth seeing in its historical city centre, which is relatively small and can be visited on foot without clocking up too many kilometres.therefore, stopwatch at the ready, it s time to touch down in the centre of the metropolis: Piazza del Duomo. But first take a stroll through the Galleria and treat yourself to a cappuccino and brioche in some lovely old cafe. Now you are ready to tackle the cathedral. Before you go, in circle around it or try to surprise it from above by going up onto the terraces. If you are lucky enough to be there on a clear day you will be able to see the city, the surrounding plain and the encircling chain of the Alps. Keep your eyes peeled as there are often interesting temporary exhibitions to visit in Palazzo Reale. Why not go in. That will keep you busy until lunchtime. In the afternoon, with no time to fit in a concert or opera at La Scala, why not at least visit the Museum and take a peek at the boxes and stalls inside the auditorium. Now you are ready to dive into the fashion hedonism of the Fashion Quadrilateral. Popping in and out of boutiques and showrooms may be entertaining even for those who are not obsessed with shopping. Anyhow, the best of fashion design is to be found here. When it begins to get dark it is time for happy hour and they do say the aperitif is an entirely Milanese tradition. You are spoiled for choice as regards the best place to go (Brera, Ticinese, Isola) for people-watching: there s the trendy, the alternative, the visionary-creative, the managerial MILAN IN A WEEKEND A one or two night stay despite the often exorbitant cost of accommodation- is definitely the best solution if you want to enjoy the city and, above all, make the most of the tempting Milanese nightlife. If you plan ahead you will be able to fit in one or two events which, and we can say this without fear of contradiction, are unparalleled elsewhere in the world: an evening at La Scala and a visit to Leonardo Da Vinci s Last Supper in the church of Santa Maria delle Grazie. As well as shopping and aperitifs you might just be able to fit in some art history such as the civic collections at Castello Sforzesco, the Pinacoteca di Brera, the Poldi Pezzoli, the Ambrosiana, or a look at some interesting architecture, from the medieval to the contemporary (the churches of St. Ambrogio, St. Lorenzo, St. Satiro, the Pirelli skyscraper and the new projects which are transforming the city). Make sure you > Coming out of Stazione Nord, the arrivals terminus of the Malpensa Express which links Malpensa airport with the city, or coming up from the MM1 underground, on your way back into the city from the new Trade Fair, you will find yourself in Piazzale Cadorna, redesigned a few years back by Gae Aulenti. In the midst of the large pink granite pavements, the glass shelters held up by red-lead pillars and the fountains, stands the colourful sculpture of Claes Oldenburg and Coosje Van Bruggen, The Needle, the Thread and the Knot, a symbol the artists meant to represent Milanese industriousness. In this case we will make it the starting point for our route which, like the thread of the sculpture, winds through the heart of Milan twisting here and there to take in key sights, and ends in Piazza Duomo, the heart and epitome of Milanese-ness. But let s return to the present and start the right of the piazza, once we have walked down Via Boccaccio and resisted its temptations and just round the corner from Le Chocolat, an obligatory stop for chocoholics, we enter Via Carducci and head towards our first port of call: the Basilica of St. Ambrogio. However, at the first crossroads we must take a detour.turning left we walk down Corso Magenta, towards the Civic Museum of Archaeology (Corso Magenta; :Tues-Sun 9.00 a.m p.m. and 2.00 p.m p.m.) and, above all, towards an atmosphere of silences, ancient relics and aristocratic and modern buildings. In Via Brisa and in Via Circo there are the remains of Roman and Imperial Milan, while on the corner of the winding Via Lanzone, which leads to the Basilica of the patron saint of the city, you can admire the impressive facade of 16 th century Palazzo Visconti which holds echoes of Manzoni s The Unnamed. At the end of the street, we will suddenly find ourselves in an enormous piazza where, on the left, we will see the entrance of the Catholic University of the Sacred Heart, housed in the buildings of the ancient monastery of St.Ambrogio and, opposite, the Victory Monument.We have finally arrived at the Basilica. > BASILICA DI S. AMBROGIO Piazza S.Ambrogio 15; ; Mon-Sun 7.30-midday and ; MM2 S. Ambrogio, bus 50, 58, 94; Museum: ;Tues-Sat 9.30-midday and , Sun 10-midday and 15-18; 2 euros The Basilica Martyrum was founded in 379 on the tombs of Saints Gervase, Protase and Ambrose,who were buried there (and still the three patron saints rest in the crypt). Rebuilt between the 9 th and the 12 th century, transformed by layer upon layer of restoration work dating from the second half of the 19 th

7 12 An Invitation to Milan From Cadorna to Duomo, in the shadow of Leonardo 13 century, judged, after the air raids of 1943,to be an exemplary model of rebuilding, it remains, despite everything, the archetype of Lombard Romanesque architecture where the religious and civic functions of that age were perfectly combined, the vast atrium at the entrance, equal in size to the church and unique in this region,providing a place for people to assemble, rebuilt in the year one thousand in perhaps identical fashion to the church that was built there in the early Middle Ages.This is one of the icons of Milan with its gabled facade on two superimposed loggias and the Canons bell-tower (on the left, dating from 1141) and the Monks bell-tower (on the right, dating from 842, visible from the ancient tree-lined road of the church of St.Agostino, then Cinema Gnomo, now just an inner courtyard entered from Via Lanzone 30).As you enter you will perceive the perfect symmetry of the interior with its three naves with high women s galleries and presbyteries raised above the crypt where the three patron saints repose. The eye is drawn by the unusual ciborium (9 th century), and its ornate canopy with Lombard-Byzantine stuccoes (10 th century), an elegant space under which there is the antependium, or golden altar, an exquisite work made by Carolingian goldsmiths, indebted to the art of Volvinio (835). The sacellum of St. Vittorio al Cielo d Oro, now seen as it was in 1930, still has the 5 th century mosaics of the early Christian period.the canons door is a remarkable piece of renovation, originally commissioned by Ludovico il Moro and built by Bramante in 1492,devastated along with Bramante s rectory by the bombs in 1943 and rebuilt using whatever materials could be salvaged. From here we enter the Museum of St. Ambrogio, a treasure trove of relics from the Basilica. of St.Vittore since Interspersed with bits of frescos and other vestiges of art the collections provide a unique and interactive record of the origins and development of scientific study and technological of the most interesting sections is dedicated to Leonardo the scientist, engineer > and inventor. There are impressive sections dedicated to land and air transport (flanked by the collections of the Civic Maritime Museum) and models, where you will find some authentic period pieces such as the Enrico Toti submarine, exhibited here since December Opposite the museum is the Basilica of St.Vittore al Corpo. It was built in the 7 th century and rebuilt in the 8 th century.however,the present structure,which also comprises the adjacent Benedictine convent survives thanks to the Olivetani monks, who decided to renovate it in Consecrated by S. Carlo Borromeo in 1576 the church is still incomplete.the grey facade,a legacy of the suspension of building works in 1602, contrasts with the sumptuous interior. Once back on Via San Vittore, we proceed towards Via Bernardino Zenale in order to reach the church of St. Maria delle Grazie and Leonardo Da Vinci s Last Supper in Corso Magenta. > CHIESA DI S. MARIA DELLE GRAZIE E CENACOLO VINCIANO Piazza S. Maria Delle Grazie 1; ; Leonardo s Last Supper: ; Tues-Sun 8.15 a.m p.m.; booking is compulsory, 8 euros; MM1 and MM2 Cadorna, tram 1, 19, 24, 27, 29, 30, bus 16, 18 > We now cross Piazza S.Ambrogio and head towards Via Carducci.On the left is the unfortunate 1939 recreation of the pusterla of St.Ambrogio,graced however by the fourteenth century tabernacle of Saints Ambrose, Protase and Gervase. Inside, as a reminder of the dark side of man, there is the Museum of Criminology and Ancient Weapons ( ; Mon-Sun a.m p.m. and 3.30 p.m p.m.) an exhibition of torture instruments and execution methods.the beautifully restored Caccia Dominioni house and the architecture of Asnago and Vender forms an interesting backdrop as far as Via Terraggio. Crossing Via Carducci we head down Via S.Vittore, a wide avenue created in 1616, once enclosed by the ramparts and the church of St.Ambrogio.At number 21,on the left,a large flagged square leads us to the entrance of the National Museum of Science and Technology. > MUSEO NAZIONALE DELLE SCIENZA E DELLA TECNOLOGIA LEONARDO DA VINCI Via S.Vittore 21; and ; a.m p.m., Sat and Sun and holidays 9.30 a.m p.m.; 8 euros; MM2 S.Ambrogio, bus 50, 58, 94; visits to the Toti submarine:tues-fri a.m p.m., Sat and Sun and holidays a.m p.m.;tickets cost 18 Euros including museum entrance. One of its kind in Italy and one of the most important museums in the world,this museum,which most closely reflects the industrial image and calling of the city has occupied what is left of the ancient buildings and cloisters (where remains of the mausoleum can be seen) of the former monastery Gothic and Renaissance are cleverly juxtaposed in this Dominican church. Work on it began in 1463, directed by architect Guiniforte Solari, successor to Filarete, at Maggiore Hospital, on land donated by Gaspare da Vimercate, commander of the Sforza armies. It incorporated a chapel dedicated to Madonna delle Grazie, which still exists,though it was altered (and the holy image contains some traces of the donor-founder). In 1482 the church was finished but already failed to meet the new criteria of space which had become fashionable in that period and which was so prized by Ludovico il Moro, the powerful patron of this church he chose to bury his beloved bride Beatrice d Este in. In 1492 he commissioned the most skilled architects including, it is said, Bramante, to build the high Renaissance tribune which, connected to the base designed by Solari with its gothic crown, balances a bright cupola on four arches.the small cloister and the old vestry, also attributed to Bramante, date from the same period.and while here, without any foundation,the decoration of the vault is attributed to Leonardo Da Vinci, there is no doubt whatsoever that he painted the Last Supper in the Refectory of the former Dominican convent, which opens onto the parvis to the left of the church. Between 1495 and 1497 Leonardo painted the moment during the Last Supper when Jesus declares to the apostles that he knows which one of them betrayed him, expanding the perspective of the setting. A dramatic moment, loaded by academics, and more recently by crime writers, with the most esoteric meanings. In the wake of the work of restoration,which removed centuries of repainting, the layman can only gasp in astonishment at the artistry while lamenting the technique (dry tempera on two layers of plaster) used by the artist which determined its swift deterioration.

8 14 An Invitation to Milan From Cadorna to Duomo, in the shadow of Leonardo 15 CASTELLO SFORZESCO >> > We now go back along Corso Magenta towards the centre. On the right at number 61 is Palazzo delle Stelline, the headquarters of the homonymous foundation and Conference Centre but also a hotel and exclusive restaurant which have been housed in the seventeenth century building of the female orphanage commissioned by Federico Borromeo since Further up, at the crossroads with Via Carducci, is Bar Magenta, a historical and crowded bar popular with Milanese youth. Continuing along Via Carducci we find we are retracing our steps as we emerge into Piazza Cadorna. Leaving Stazione Nord on the left we walk along Viale Alemagna for a few hundred metres until we reach Parco Sempione and Palazzo dell Arte, headquarters of the Triennale. > 1 Filarete Tower 2 Piazza d Armi 3 Rocchetta 4 Bona di Savoia Tower 5 Palazzo della Corte Ducale 6 Torre del Barco 7 Rivellino di S. Spirito PALAZZO DELL ARTE OR DELLA TRIENNALE Viale Alemagna 6; ; a.m p.m.; MM1 and MM2 Cadorna-Triennale, bus 61 It was built by Giovanni Muzio in 1931 as a legacy left by senator Antonio Bernocchi, who intended to donate a permanent museum for the Triennial Exhibition of Decorative Arts to the city. Since 1923, and with changing fortunes,the Triennale has played a prominent role in the debate on Italian architecture and now exhibitions and seminars follow one another at a much faster pace than its name might imply. The most important exhibitions are held in Galleria della Triennale,an exhibition space which was designed by Gae Aulenti in 1994 to enhance the original architectural physiognomy of the interiors. Inside the building or nearby, there are trendy cafes such as > On the way towards Castello Sforzesco we will see the Arco della Pace, designed in 1807 in honour of Napoleon, and the Park Tower, now known as Torre Branca (1933).Rising to a height of metres, there is a lounge at the 97 metre mark, which can be reached by a lift and which affords an extraordinary view of Milan. Approaching Castello Sforzesco from Arco della Pace, the nearest entrance to us is the so-called Porta del Barco, which we will step through in order to find out what there is inside this renowned castle. > Coffee Design, Old Fashion Café and Fiat Café-La Triennale whose tables spill out onto the park overlooking the dreamlike fountain of Bagni Misteriosi- a three-dimensional sculpture of a painting by Giorgio De Chirico. On the ground floor there is an archive and library,while the end of 2006 should see the opening, on the first floor of the south wing,of the Museum of Design, a dream which Milan has chased for decades.the museum s initial nucleus of works will consist of a large collection of rare or significant objects and furnishings which distinguished the taste of Italians from the post war period to the nineties.the building also houses Teatro dell Arte. CIVIC AQUARIUM Established in 1906, Milan Aquarium is one of the oldest aquariums in the world. It is housed in a beautiful Art Nouveau building which was restored in As well as its collections and many educational programmes (on the premises and in schools), the Aquarium s forte is its Sea Museum, comprising materials used by fishermen of the inland waters of Northern Italy. Viale Gadio , Bus 57, trams 3, 4, 7, 12, 14, M2 Lanza Antonio Averlino, known as il Filarete, was a great amongst all the great architects of the 15th century, but this imposing tower attracting attention to the castle from a distance and named after him was actually built by somebody else centuries after the artist passed away. Sforzesco Castle, as it appears today, is in fact the result of strikingly eclectic inventive renovation carried out by Luca Beltrami between the 19 th -20 th centuries.the castle commissioned by Galeazzo 2 nd in 1358 has a history of bloodshed and festivities, death and splendour.the original castle was actually destroyed during the republican triennium ( ) following the death USEFUL INFORMATIONS Castello Sforzesco Piazza Castello; Opening times: Mon-Sun 9 a.m p.m.; Free entry Public Transport Metro: MM1Cadorna and Cairoli, MM2 Cadorna and Lanza Buses: 43, 50, 57, 58, 61, 70, 94 Trams: 1, 3, 4, 12, 14, 20, 27 Museums (ticket office) Opening times:tues-sun 9 a.m p.m. Entrance fee: 3 Euros (full price), 1.50 Euros (reduced price), free up to 18 years; free entry: Fri p.m. and every other day from p.m. Rivellino and tour around the walls Bookings available for guided tours, ; even visits also arranged in summer Civic Collection of Achille Bertarelli Prints Opening times: Mon-Fri 9 a.m.-2 p.m.,thurs till 4 p.m.; Freee entry Photo Archives Opening times: Mon-Fri 9 a.m.-2 p.m.,thurs till 4 p.m.; Free entry Art Library Opening times: Mon-Fri 9.15 a.m.-12 p.m. and p.m. Access for the disabled Access, if accompanied, to the courtyard (from the rear) and interior premises

9 16 An Invitation to Milan From Cadorna to Duomo, in the shadow of Leonardo 17 CASTELLO SFORZESCO >> of last of the Viscontis, Filippo Maria. It was Francesco Sforza, the new duke, who had it rebuilt: which is why it is still called Sforzesco Castle. Further embellishments followed, despite all the murders, plots and violence, particularly while Ludovico il Moro was in power and Milan was at the height of its splandour.the work involved artists like Bernardino Zenale, Bernardino Butinone, Bramante and, of course, Leonardo. Nowadays it is a citadel of museums, visible evidence of Milan s history. ART GALLERY Including a collection of paintings by Milanese and Lombard masters from the Renaissance to the 18 th century, alongside masterpieces by Mantegna (The Virgin in Glory), Antonello da Messina (St. Benedict),Lotto (Portrait of a Young Man); loose frescos allude to Milanese buildings long since knocked down. MONUMENTAL BUILDING Filarete s Tower (1) leads through to the spacious courtyard of Piazza d Armi (2), decorated with the reconstructed remains of old Milanese houses that had been demolished (right-hand side). The three buildings forming the Rocchetta (3,original nucleus of the castle) and Bona di Savoia Tower (4, from 1476) stand on the opposite side to the entrance.the third building is Palazzo della Corte Ducale (5), the heart of the castle where Duke Galeazzo Maria Sforza set up his home, facing the courtyard enclosed at the rear by the 15 th -century Elefante gateway, and to ANCIENT ART MUSEUM The halls of the old home of the Sforza family accommodate the Ancient Art Museum,fitted out by the BBPR firm in 1956 and then partly refurbished in 2000.The extraordinary collection of sculptures from late-classical times through to the Renaissance began to take shape in the early-19 th century, when works from churches and convents that were being suppressed and knocked down at the time were relocated in Brera. Later on Milan underwent a period of reconstruction, initially intended to create a new city but then urgently required due to the damage caused during the wars. At times the urban development schemes that ensued were actually more destructive than the air raids. Some remains were saved in private and public collections. Civic Museums the left of the loggia commissioned by Gian Galeazzo, where the low-stepped stairway begins, designed to be negotiated by mounted armigers. Opposite, a 15 th century gateway, surmounted by the Sforza coat-of-armsonwards, provided a noble entrance to the building s ground-floor halls, which visitors can now walk through while admiring the Ancient Art Museum, the gleaming hub of the Civic Art Collections divided into three sections: the Ancient Art Museum and Art Gallery; the collection of Applied Art; and the Prehistory Museum and Egyptian Museum. safeguarded plenty of the remains, and the castle s spacious chambers could even hold such imposing relics as the great arch of Pusterla dei Fabbri, one of the minor gates in the medieval city walls, or the 14 th century burial shrine of Bernabò Visconti, sculpted in one single block of marble by Bonino da Campione.The collection could eventually boast such absolute masterpieces as Michelangelo s Pietà Rondanini (1552) and Gaston de Foix s tomb by Bambaja ( ). The museum trip may be extended to encompass the majestic reception chambers of Galeazzo Maria Sforza Palace:the Sala delle Asse, whose vault was frescoed by Leonardo da Vinci in 1498; and the 15 th -century duke s chapel frescoed by Bonifacio Bembo and turned into a stables under Austrian rule. COLLECTIONS OF APPLIED ART AND MUSEUM OF MUSICAL INSTRUMENTS Outstanding for the remarkable range of articles on display: from furniture to weapons, ceramics and goldsmith works, glass and ivory. Including the gonfalon of the city of Milan and the EGYPTIAN MUSEUM, PREHISTORY AND PROTOHISTORY MUSEUM LIBRARIES AND HISTORICAL ARCHIVES RIVELLINO, COVERED ROAD AND BATTLEMENTS > 16 th -century Trivulzio Tapestries (in the Balla Room, the biggest in the Castle). The Museum of Musical Instruments holds old oliphants and hunting horns, as well as wind instruments. The Prehistory and Protohistory Museum can boast relics from the Neolithic to the Iron Age, notably remains from the Golasecca culture (9 th century B.C.) in Lombardy. The Egyptian Museum display evidence of everyday life and burial customs in Ancient Egypt. The buildings alongside Filarete Tower hold the Art Library, Photographic Archives and Achille Bertarelli Prints Collection.The Civic Historical Archives is one of the most complete collections about the history of Milan, and the adjoining Trivulzian Library is remarkable even for just the Codex Trivulzianus, Leonardo da Vinci s notebook. Another way of visiting the castle is to walk along its embattled walls or the covered road circling the castle and connecting its towers: Rivellino di S. Spirito (7) leads to Ghirlanda Tower, open to visitors. Barco gateway (6) in the courtyard of the Corte ducale leads into Sempione Park. Leaving the castle through the gate beneath Filarete Tower, we find ourselves facing Foro Bonaparte, a semi-circle of elegant period buildings, mostly built in the 19 th century on the remains of old Spanish ramparts. Having crossed Foro Bonaparte and travelled the short distance along wide Via Beltrami, we come to Largo Cairoli, where the Via Dante starts, a straight road from where you can glimpse the Cathedral in the distance. A pedestrian road,via Dante is still as neat and harmonious as ever, with Liberty-style and eclectic buil-

10 18 An Invitation to Milan From Cadorna to Duomo, in the shadow of Leonardo 19 DUOMO (CATHEDRAL) >> dings all of the same height.a clever mix of shops, book stores and bars with outdoor tables attracts passers-by and shoppers. Hardly surprisingly, this is one of the busiest streets in Milan. Piazza Cordusio at the end of Via Dante featuring eclectic-style buildings from the reign of Umberto 1 st bears witness to Milan s legacy as the nation s financial capital.two parallel streets lead from Cordusio to Piazza Duomo.Taking the most southerly street,via Orefici, and then turning into Via Speronari, we come to the Ambrosiana Library and Art Gallery. > LA CAMERA DI COMMERCIO In the Ercole Turati building (built in 1880 and refurbished in 1952 by Achille and Piergiacomo Castiglioni) at the beginning of Via Meravigli, just as you set off from Piazza Cordusio, you can find the Camera di Commercio di Milano, which carries out a range of interesting services for companies operating in the Milanese province.with a view to supporting businesses operating on the market, the Camera di Commercio has set up 8 specialised companies. Camera di Commercio di Milano,Via Meravigli, 9/b; ; MM1 Cordusio AMBROSIANA Piazza Pio XI 2; ; Library: reading room Mon-Fri 9.30 a.m.-5 p.m.; Art Gallery:Tues-Sun 10 a.m p.m; MM1 and MM3 Duomo The spacious Ambrosiana building is the home of two of Milan s most important cultural institutes, the Library and Art Gallery, originally commissioned and promoted by Cardinal Federico Borromeo, a patron of the arts and man of letters.the Library, which opened in 1609, is one of the world s most important in terms of the number,rarity,age and value of the works it contains: suffice it to mention Leonardo s Codex Atlanticus or the Virgil manuscript illuminated by Simone Martini for Francesco Petrarch. The Art Gallery was set up through the donation of the Cardinal s collection, the original and most important part of the entire collection.thanks to Federico s > fine taste it features works by great 16 th century masters (Raphael s The School of Athens), Leonardo s followers in Lombardy (Bernardino Luini) and his Italian contemporaries (most notably Caravaggio, whose Basket of Fruit he owned and loved) and also Flemish contemporaries, including numerous works by Jan Brueghel. After Borromeo s death (1631), more purchases and donations were made. In the 18 th century,the marquis Galeazzo Arconati made the exceptional donation of 12 manuscripts by Leonardo da Vinci, although only the Codex Atlanticus with its 1750 drawings of a scientific-technical nature was not commandeered by Napoleon s troops. Crossing Via Orefici we come to Via dei Mercanti, where the city Broletto (townhall) used to stand, although all that still remains today is Palazzo dei Giureconsulti (City Magistrates ) built in Opposite, the colonnade of the Nuovo Broletto, whose construction began back in 1233, stands in the middle where the square used to be. It now houses temporary exhibitions as part of the Palazzo Reale museum system.via dei Mercanti leads into Piazza del Duomo. > 1 Lift to terraces 2 Entrance doors 3 Apse windows 4 Sarcophagus of Ariberto da Intimiano 5 Medeghino s burial shrine 6 Statue of St. Bartholomew 7 Trivulzio Candelabra 8 Door to the north vestry 9 Presbytery and main altar A stone spectacle that is truly striking despite the contradictions in its image and balance and the discontinuous stylistic design of a Gothic building, which, in actual fact, is largely neo-gothic. Constructed over a very long period in time (one of the stones dates it back to 1386), this is one of the greatest building enterprises of all time (with work still continuing, due to all the renovation and restoration operations required). The original late-gothic layout of Rhenish-Bohemian origin makes it unique of it kind in Italy, although part of its fame is due to the sheer size of the building, third only to St. Peter s in Rome and Seville Cathedral, and its surprising wealth of ornamentation, including over 3,400 statues (about 2,300 of which on the outside), plus half-figures set in the window splays, 99 giants among the gargoyles, and hundreds of figures sculpted in the high-reliefs. USEFUL INFORMATION Cathedral Information: Opening times: Mon-Sun 7 a.m.-7 p.m. Public transport Metro: MM1and MM3 Duomo; Trams and buses: 1, 2, 3, 12, 14, 16, 19, 24, 27, 199, 200 Terrace Opening times: winter 9 a.m.-5. p.m.; spring and autumn 9 a.m.-6 p.m.; summer 9 a.m p.m. Entrance fees: steps 4 Euros, lift 6 Euros Cathedral Treasure Opening times: Mon-Fri 9.30 a.m.-1 p.m. and 2 p.m.-6 p.m., Sat 9.30 a.m p.m. and 2-5 p.m., Sun p.m. Entrance fee: 1 Euro Baptistery of St. Giovanni alle Fonti Opening times: Mon-Fri 9.45 a.m p.m. and p.m. Entrance fee: 1.50 Euros

11 20 An Invitation to Milan From Cadorna to Duomo, in the shadow of Leonardo 21 DUOMO (CATHEDRAL) AROUND THE CATHEDRAL: THE FACADE AND SIDES ABOVE THE CATHEDRAL: THE TERRACES The spectacular verticality of the building s marble mass can best be admired from Piazzetta Reale:walls perforated by wide windows set between columns decorated with an spires and statues tower up from the base and extend out onto the terraces,together with rows of rampant arches.the façade is rather disappointing:set out in 5 bays around huge spiral-topped columns completed in 1813,it is baroque in style up to the first row of windows before returning to the Gothic style at the top.the five 17 th -century portals (2),with five windows above them surmounted by three big windows (19 th century), have bronze doors designed by modern artists.the sides illustrate how the building was constructed in reverse chronological order to the façade,starting with the parts built in the 18 th century and progressing to those constructed in the 17 th,16 th and 15 th centuries, right down to the apse (late-14 th century). Polygonal-shaped and set between the vestry structures,it is opened up by three huge windows (3). LA RINASCENTE The Rinascente, meaning reborn, has literally risen from the ashes. Built in 1890, it is situated next to the Duomo. In 1918 the building, which was renewed, modernised and destroyed by a fire on its opening day, was rebuilt, and reopened in on the 21st April 1921 with its current name, put forward by Gabriele d Annunzio. In its past, the bombings of 1943, a complete rebuilding in 1947 and an extension aimed at creating an interior container similar to the ones in nearby buildings, with an 8-floor steel structure out of phase with the façade. In addition to high quality shopping,the Rinascente provides the Bistrot Duomo bar and restaurant, an oasis on the top floor with huge windows offering splendid views of the forest of demons, gargoyles and saints of the Duomo. Piazza Duomo; ; mon-sat 10 a.m-10 p.m., open Sundays (depending on the period of the year): 10-20, from September to 23rd November: 10 a.m. to 9 p.m., December 10 a.m.-10 p.m.; MM1 and MM3 Duomo UNDER THE CATHEDRAL: THE TREASURE AND BAPTISTERY OF ST. GIOVANNI ALLE FONTI AND ST. TECLA On clear days the view from the top of the cathedral stretches beyond the city and is a magnificent sight. It is worth making the climb to admire from close up the tightly-woven web of rampant arches, spires (Carelli spire, the cathedral s oldest built in , is right by the exit from the lift, although the statue of Gian Galeazzo Visconti is now INSIDE THE CATHEDRAL The 52 columns really catch the eye inside the cathedral with its five aisles;the ribbed vaults are covered with plastered began on the marble inset floor in 1585 based on designs by Pellegrino Tibaldi,who also made the altars,mausoleums,choir,presbytery,and transept chapels.the church is overflowing with works of art.the granite sarcophagus (4) of the Archbishop Ariberto da Intimiano (1045) comes from S. Dionigi Monastery; there is a funeral shrine to Gian Gaicomo Medici (1555) known as il Medeghino (5);the statue of St. Bartholomew Flayed stands alone on a pedestal (6), a perfect anatomical study by Marco d Agrate from 1562; there is also a magnificent Trivulzian kept in the Cathedral Museum), pinnacles, statues (there are some intriguing marble statues in the façade s mouchette, sculpted in over by the Balcony, depicting sports) and the very fancy dome cladding by Amadeo surmounted by a tall spire, where the statue of the Madonnina,the city s patron saint, looms over the city. Candelabra (7), a masterpiece of the medieval goldsmith s art of unknown origin:5 m tall with 7 arms,it is a web of imaginary animals, tendrils and spirals, and scenes telling the story of salvation through Christ.The portal of the north vestry (8) is also worth noting, one of the cathedral s first sculptural works (1389, Giacomo da Campione and his assistants). The main altar (9), which came from S. Maria Maggiore Basilica,marked the beginning of services in the new Cathedral; the choir behind Feriale Chapel is a magnificent wooden structure with two rows of stalls ( ) with reliefs telling stories about the lives of the archbishops of Milan. The Cathedral Treasure is stowed beneath the aisle and includes goldsmith s works, holy furnishings, ornately bound copies of the Gospels, mitres and embroidered pales. Pellegrini s crypt leads into the dark S. Carlo chamber (1606), where the saint s body dressed in papal garments is kept in a rock crystal urn donated by Philip 4 th of Spain.The Via Dolorosa, a video installation made by PALAZZO REALE Piazza del Duomo 12; , open for exhibitions; MM1 and MM3 Duomo Mark Wallinger in 2005 has been placed alongside. A narrow staircase cut into the wall leads down to the 4 th century floor, approximately 4 metres below the level of the square: the structure of St. Giovanni alle Fonti Baptistery,built starting in 378,can be clearly seen from here, and there are also the remains of St.Tecla apses,the summer basilica dating back to before the mid-4 th century. On the south side of the Cathedral, Palazzo Reale designed by Piermarini was completed by 1778: elegant buildings with a row of huge pilasters create a sort of courtyard of honour,now Piazzetta Reale and slightly off-set to the main axis. The austere staircase of honour alludes to the interiors decorated by leading painters and stucco artists of the day and furnished with pieces by Giuseppe Maggiolini and further enriched under Napoleon. Restoration work has saved the building, so that it is now primarily an exhibition space for temporary displays (always held in the ground-floor and noble chambers) and also a home for various collections, including the Milan Cathedral Museum and Reggia Museum collections, which can be visited on the stately floor. The second floor holds some works from the Civic Museum of Contemporary Art, connected along one single path to the nearby Reggia Museum and 20th Century Museum, all incorporated in the exhibition spaces of Rotonda della Bresana and the Regional Council building to create one of Europe s most prestigious museum complexes.

12 22 An Invitation to Milan From Porta Venezia to Porta Ticinese FROM PORTA VENEZIA TO PORTA TICINESE > This second tour starts from the opposite end of Milan city centre or, in other words, from Porta Venezia (or the East Gate as it was called back then), which, in Alessandro Manzoni s The Betrothed, saw Renzo Tramaglino flea from the city to seek asylum within the borders of the Venetian Republic.Very little of those old city walls are still left today, just a few sections of Spanish ramparts, almost invisible, half-hidden away by the road traffic. Behind us, the straight and wide avenue called Corso Buenos Aires stretches for almost three kilometres of busy shops, book stores, and department stores: the biggest outdoor shopping centre in Europe, or so it has been described. But we are heading off in the opposite direction towards the Public Gardens in Corso Venezia (with entrances from Corso Venezia,Via Palestro,Piazza Cavour,Via Manin,and the bastions of Porta Venezia; November-February 6.30 a.m.-8 p.m., March-April and October 6.30 a.m.-9 p.m., May 6.30 a.m.-10 p.m., June-September 6.30 a.m.-11 p.m.). Now named after the journalist Indro Montanelli, the Public Gardens owe their present appearance to additions and other alterations carried out throughout the 19th century: the spacious lawns, children s playground, outdoor bars, streams, small lakes and ancient plants co-exit with modern houses (over at the east corner by the ramparts, Rasini Tower designed by Emilio Lancia and Gio Ponti in catches the eye) and Villa Reale over on the west side; the Planetarium and Civic Natural History Museum stand along Corso Venezia and are almost institutions for the people of Milan of all ages, where adults and children alike can enjoy themselves and learn something by paying them a visit. > ULRICO HOEPLI CIVIC PLANETARIUM C/o Giardini Pubblici, corso Venezia 57, booking office ; Mon-Fr 9 a.m.-12 p.m; open for public conferences Donated to the city of Milan by Ulrico Hoepli on 10 th July 1929 and officially opened the following year, based on a neo-classical project designed by the architect Piero Portalupi,the planetarium is intended to be a teaching facility for spreading knowledge about astronomy and other related sciences. It is the biggest institute of its kind in Italy and is named after the planetstudying instrument installed inside it: a Zeiss model IV telescope projecting an image of the starry skies on the circular dome.the main events held here are school and public conferences on topics related to astronomy. CIVIC MUSEUM OF NATURAL HISTORY C/o Giardini Pubblici, corso Venezia 55, ;Tues-Sun 9 a.m p.m.; ticket 3 Euros, reduduced1.5 Euros Situated inside a 19 th -century building in the Public Gardens the biggest natural history museum in Italy and one of the biggest in Europe it provides an outline of the birth of life, its evolution, and relations between living organisms and the environment. It has a number of different sections (Mineralogy, Paleontology, Human Paleonthology, Zoology of Verte- brates, Zoology of Invertebrates) and, in addition to exhibition activities, focuses heavily on the education > side of museums and scientific research. The museum also holds a library and cafeteria. Back on Corso Venezia, we take a detour along Via Palestro. Just a few dozen metres down the road across a tree-lined avenue the Boschetti (woods) whose evocative name is in striking contrast to the way it looks today as a big car park, we come to Villa Reale. Nowadays there is barely a trace of the shadowy road which used to connect the prestigious royal residence to the equally aristocratic Via Senato. At the junction, a large bronze statue by Mirò stands across from the home of the State Archives. > VILLA BELGIOJOSO BONAPARTE - 19 TH CENTURY MUSEUM AND PAC Villa e Galleria d Arte Moderna: via Palestro 16; ;Tues-Sun 9 a.m.-1 p.m. and p.m.; PAC: via Palestro 14; ; open for exhibitions on Tues.,Wed. and Fri a.m p.m.,thurs. until 9 p.m., Sat. and Sun. until 7 p.m; MM1 Palestro, MM3 Turati, bus 61, 94 > The Villa Reale complex stands right opposite the Public Gardens and has recently been renovated and given back its original name: Villa Belgiojoso. The building, which is one of the finest examples of neo-classical architecture in Milan ( ), is the result of a three-way working partnership: Piermarini,who was commissioned to carry out the project by the Count of Belgiojoso, passed the commission on to his disciple Pollack and kept the interior architecture for himself, calling on Parini to choose the decoration, as he had done for Palazzo Reale.Overlooking a secluded garden,the first example of an English garden in the city, the villa has been home to the Modern Art Gallery since 1919, which contains some key Italian works from the late- 18 th and 19 th century: Pellizza da Volpedo s Fourth Estate is still its main attraction.the Villa Belgiojoso complex is completed by the PAC (Contemporary Art Pavilion), which opened in 1954 and was originally built by Ignazio Gardella inside the stables and then rebuilt by the same man after it was so badly damaged by a Mafia bomb attack in 1993.The first Italian building deliberately designed to display present day art,the PAC hosts exhibitions on a rotary basis.there is also a cafeteria on the first floor. It is now time to turn back and continue further along Corso Venezia. This central part of the road, which stretches to where the old medieval gate used to stand, at the crossroads with Via Senato (knocked down in 1819), is almost completely shop-free, but shops are very much back to the fore as we gradually draw closes to the famous Fashion Quadrilateral. As we walk along we pass some interesting buildings, such as Palazzo Serbelloni (at no.16), where Napoleon and Josephine, Metternich, Napoleon 3rd and Vittorio Emanuele 2nd all stayed: this is almost a quick crib of the neo-classical History of Milan.And then we comet to: Palazzo Saporiti, with its statues of the Consenting Gods, and Palazzo Bovara, where Stendhal once paid a visit.

13 24 An Invitation to Milan From Porta Venezia to Porta Ticinese th -century Fontana House (at no.10), probably built by Bramante, is even older. We have now reached Piazza S. Babila: on our right, the luxury shopping streets:via Spiga,Via Montenapoleone,Via S. Andrea, with a web of interweaving roads: there is no point in listing them all. But it is not all designer clothing here: Bagatti Valsecchi Museum is in Via S. Spirito. > MUSEO BAGATTI VALSECCHI Via S. Spirito 10 - via del Gesù 5; ; Sun 1 p.m p.m; 6 Euros; MM3 Monte Napoleone, MM1 San Babila, bus 61 This neo-mannerist building, constructed between , stretches as far as Via del Gesù and is the home of a museum named after its founders. So is this really a building designed to hold a collection or a collection designed for a building? It does not really matter either way. In the late-19 th century,fausto and Giuseppe Bagatti had a dream of building and living in a stately 16th-century home. As lawyers, art collectors and up-and-coming members of the aristocracy of the day,they both devoted plenty of time, money and expertise into carrying out careful renovation work in the Renaissance style. They personally designed the buildings (including the one at no.7,via S. Spirito, where concordia fratrum aedificabitur domus is written on the gate), based on the finest examples of Renaissance architecture in Lombardy and designs borrowed from duke s > palaces in Mantova and Urbino for decorating the apartments, which are full of fine th century furnishing (fireplaces, ceilings, freizes, furniture, sculptures and paintings, including masterpieces like Giovanni Bellini s St. Justine ) and other imitations, also useful for adapting certain indispensable pleasures (like the piano turned into a sideboard) and home comforts (like the bathroom) to the house s peculiar style.always lovingly cared for by its owners, the entire building was donated by the family to a specially created foundation in 1974, and it still has the same layout originally devised by the two gentlemen.the museum s cultural activities notably include a special tour for children aged between Young children are shown around the premises by expert guides and entertained along the way by educational games and even told a story. A few yards further on and we are back in Via Spiga, walking along the road and bearing left we come to Via Manzoni. Studying the facades of the mainly late-18th century buildings running along this downtown street, built a long time before the author of The Betrothed died, we cannot help wondering what the street was called before it became Via Manzoni? Along a section running between Piazza Scala and Via Bigli, narrower than it is now, it used to be called Corsia del Giardino; then, when it was widened to its present size, it became Corsia di Porta Nova. And over where Via Senato now stands by Piazzza Cavour it used to run down to the Naviglio Canal along medieval Porta Nuova, which we can now see just on our right as we leave Via Spiga. Mentioned in 1271 as the city s first paved street, skirting past the Torriani houses, whose garden it was named after,via Manzoni was embellished as referred to above with opulent late-18 th /early-19 th architectural designs. Private stately homes and aristocratic buildings with regular elevations concealing green gardens and hidden court- THE FASHION DISTRICT Aristocratic streets embellished with elegant neo-classic buildings, where there were still food stores until not so long ago, are now lined with the shop windows of prestigious stores, in summer displaying the cuts and colours which will be in fashion in the autumn and in winter displaying the bright colours destined to be in vogue the following spring. Here, between Via Monte Napoleone and Via della Spiga, all the most famous names in Italian and world fashion have their stores. Shop windows designed like museum displays, where the dreams on show at the most exclusive fashion shows (and the favourite hotel of top models, Four Seasons, is also in Via del Gesù) are exhibited like pure works of art; at times with a touch of sense of humour and feel for storytelling, as in the case of the Moschino Store in Via S.Andrea (fitted out by Sean Dix, as is the other store in Via della Spiga) andviktor & Rolf, whose Upsidedown showroom calls to mind Alice in Wonderland. Fashion is also evoked in the elaborate essences of L Artisan Parfumeur in Via Bagutta, and the combs in the old Jäneke workshop in Via S. Spirito.The world of male well-being inspires the famous old Lorenzi knife store (Via Monte Napoleone) and the Preattoni Perfumery and Knife Store (Via Manzoni at the corner of Via della Spiga).Those with refined palates can sit down at a table in the courtyard of a building and feast on the delights on offer at the Salumaio di Monte Napoleone (designed by Enrico Valerian), or visit Armandola in Via della Spiga and Parini Drugstore (Via Borgospesso), where over 72,000 products are set out on simple shelves, arranged into different categories and according to where they come from, in the basement of S. Francesco da Paola Vicarage. Monte Napoleone also accommodates the shop windows of glass merchants like Venini and Vetrerie di Empoli (also found in Via Verri with a little market for old furniture), an obligatory stop at Christmas time to buy special decorations; Barovier & Toso. The jeweller s shops are in Via Monte Napoleone (including Cartier, Damiani and Buccellati),Via S. Andrea (with Eleuteri s wonderful period pieces) and Via della Spiga (where Tiffany and Bulgari open shops). Of all the antiques dealers that used to line these streets and give a sense of period style to museum-apartments, all that is now left are a few elegant displays in Via Borgospesso (Biedermeier, but also watches for connoisseurs and fancy accessories), Via Santo Spirito,Via del Gesù (Indian and Chinese art),via della Spiga (modern period design) and Via Bagutta (old English-style).Via Borgospesso and Via S. Spirito have shops selling home and kitchen furniture. For decades now De Padova has been dictating the city s minimalist style in Corso Venezia. A special mention must go to the neat window display in Via della Spiga one of the few haberdasheries still left in the city, evoking that little old-fashioned world described in Antonio Fogazzaro s novel Piccolo mondo antico. yards turned it into an example of the orderly neo-classical Milan that so intrigued Stendhal, such as Palazzo Borromeo D Adda (nos ), which revealed to him the superb beauty of architecture.aristocratic living is re-evoked in Palazzo Gallarati-Scotti (no. 30), featuring frescoes attributed to Tiepolo, while Miln s Risorgimento is called to mind by Palazzo Brentani (no.6),which in 1848 was a silent witness as the people of Milan s vented their rage against Carlo Alberto di Savoia, guilty of agreeing to a truce with the Austrians, and the Grand Hotel et de Milan (from 1863; no. 29), where Giuseppe Verdi lived in one of the suites from 1872 until he passed away on 27 th January 1901.As the maestro lay on his death bed, as a sign of their respect, the people of Milan had the road paving covered with a layer of straw so that passing carriages would not make so much noise. After this brief detour, we have now reached Poldi Pezzoli Museum >

14 26 An Invitation to Milan From Porta Venezia to Porta Ticinese 27 MUSEO POLDI PEZZOLI Via Manzoni 12; ; 10 a.m.-6 p.m.; 8 Euros; MM3 Montenapoleone, trams 2, 20 A long tradition in the patronage of the arts and in collecting works of art, that Milan has never relinquished. A cultured aristocrat, Gian Giacomo Poldi Pezzoli, and real art lover.a 17 th -century building reconstructed in the neoclassical period and then restructured in 1853 with a new building being placed alongside it.a foundation for the arts that Poldi Pezzoli set up to allocate his home and collections for public use and benefit,as was originally intended. This sums up the history of the museum and its collections,created by this gentleman for his own pleasure starting in 1846, when he honed his instincts and,from being a collector of arms and weapons,turned himself into a keen researcher into the highest forms of art. Starting with the purchase of The Rest during the Flight into Egypt byandrea Solario, the collection gradually took shape as an eclectic search for all kinds of masterpieces,including weapons,furnishing (notably a Persian carpet from > ), goldsmith works, enamels, jewellery, glass works, fabrics, furniture, old books and archaeological relics.followed by sculptures and paintings from chosen periods and schools (14 th century art from Siena, 15 th century from Tuscany, early 16 th century works by Leonardo s followers in Lombardy, and 18 th century Venetian works by Francesco Guardi), including some works by Pollaiolo, whose Portrait of a Woman is the museum s showpiece, Piero della Francesca and Sandro Botticelli.The collector s taste also emerges in the choice of setting for his collection, ideally encompassed in specially designed spaces.restructured after the war to repair damage caused by the air raids, over recent years the Poldi Pezzoli has had its Weapons Room relocated, a fine example of modern museography designed by Arnaldo Pomodoro, and further renovation has been carried out on the little neo-gothic study known as the Dante Cabinet. Having left the museum,we continue on our way towards Piazza della Scala.At the crossroads with Via Montenapoleone there is a monument to Sandro Pertini, erected in 1990, and across the road we find the 18 th -century St. Francesco da Paola Church, an attractive example of the late baroque style, with the remains of the convent and frescoed rooms of the vicarage lying between Via Montenapoleone and Via Borgospesso, which Driade (Via Manzoni, 30) is now using to provide a brightlylit display of kitchens, furnishing, glass works and designer objects, and occasionally also used for holding exhibitions and meetings. Further on,there is still an air of Manzoni about Via Morone,a narrow street with classical-style elevations, where there is an antique weapons shop and the famous old Colla Barbary, a favourite place with Milan s leading citizens. Most significantly, though, the house at no.1 is Manzoni s birthplace (Tues-Fri 9 a.m.-12 p.m.and 2 p.m.-4 p.m.,free entry). No.2 is a Renaissance building with a neo-classical façade, in whose rooms frescoed by Alliani (but ruined by the war and a lack of proper upkeep) Massimo d Azeglio lived with his wife Giulia,Alessandro Manzoni s daughter. This brief detour takes us to Piazza Belgiojoso, one of the most picturesque little corners of old Milan dating back to the neo-classical period and reflecting the taste of the princes of Belgiojoso and Manzoni family, whose house stands along the fourth side of the square. Everything began back in 1771, when Prince Alberico 12 th Barbiano di Belgiojoso d Este commissioned the court architect Giuseppe Piermarini to build the sumptuous Palazzo Belgiojoso (no. 2), an eternal symbol of wealth and taste celebrated in the Apotheosis of Alberico the Great, a mythological fresco by Martin Knoller (but you will have to take our word for it, since the building is not open to the public). But echoes of more recent dramatic news have resounded around the rooms of Palazzo Belgiojoso: on 23 rd July 1993, right in the midst of the stormy events surrounding the so-called Clean Hands corruption inquiry, the industrialist Raul Gardini, the President of Montedison, shot himself and took his own life. In the other great building in the square, now Palazzo Besana (no. 1), which Giovanni Battista Piuri was commissioned to build by General Ludovico Barbiano di Belgiojoso in 1815, Stendhal courted Baroness Matilde Viscontini Dembowski, an erudite hostess of literary and artistic gatherings, but alas his love went unrequited. No. 3,Via degli Omenoni, which runs from Piazza Belgiojoso to St. Fedele Church, is the home of the Omenoni, eight giant bearded slaves sculpted on the façade by Antonio Abondio to act as caryatids. A few yard further along the road and we come to the unmistakable façade of La Scala Opera House.Via Verdi,on the right-hand side of the theatre,takes us to Via Brera and the monument of the same name. > PINACOTECA DI BRERA Via Brera 28; ; a.m p.m.; 5 Euros; MM2 Lanza, trams 1, 4, 8, 12, 14, 27, buses 61, 97 The Brera Art Gallery has one of the most important collections of paintings in Italy. It was set up in Napoleonic times in conjunction with the Fine Arts Academy of which it was an integral part:the first part of the collection consisted mainly of plaster casts, etchings and drawings that students were supposed to try and copy. First opened in 1803, the Art Gallery saw its collections flourish considerably in just a few years due to the arrival of works taken from suppressed churches in Lombardy and other parts of the Kingdom of Italy, acquired by Viceroy Eugenio di Beauharnais or bequeathed to the State by private parties.the main hand behind the boom in Brera was Giuseppe Bossi, a painter and art writer, who was the Academy Secretary from The rapid growth in the collections meant that the 14thcentury S. Maria di Brera Church was added on as an extension to accommodate all the works. Andrea Appiani took over from Bossi as the curator of the Art Gallery.The museum officially opened in 1809,and by the end of 1812 it contained over 800 works from all over Italy, which made it even more of a museum of national interest. Fortunately,this major collection,further enhanced throughout the 20 th century, thanks also to forms of modern patronage mainly backed by the Friends of Brera and Milan Museums Associations, was not damaged during the 1943 air raids.the building, in contrast, was badly damaged.the acquisitions continued after the 2nd World War: although works from the Jucker collection from the Futurist period were moved onto CiMAC, it still holds masterpieces from the prestigious Jesi collection of 20 th century Italian and foreign artists.walking along the corridors and through the rooms of the Art Gallery is like taking a trip through the history of great modern art, allowing visitors to become familiar with some of the most famous masterpieces in the history of art, authentic icons of the

15 28 An Invitation to Milan From Porta Venezia to Porta Ticinese 29 collective western psyche. In addition to the masterpieces referred to in the box, it is worth at least mentioning the Art Gallery s frescoes by Bramante taken from Gasparo Visconti s home in Via Lanzone and other frescoes by the Maestro of Mocchirolo, evidence that Giotto s school was present in Milan in the 1330s;as well as Raphael s Marriage of the Virgin, along with the Montefeltro Altarpiece by Piero, an archetype of the ideal of Renaissance perfection; the two Madonna with Child paintings and Pietà by Giovanni Bellini, who together with Gentile painted the canvas entitled St Mark s Sermon in Alexandria, Egypt;Titian s St. Jerome,Tintoretto s Discovery of the Body of St.Mark,Vincenzo Foppa s Polyptych of Graces, canvases by Francesco del Cossa and Cosmè Tura, and lots by Carlo Crivelli, a processional banner by Luca Signorelli, Bramante s Christ at the Column, Bramantino s Crucification, and Caravaggio s Supper at Emmaus; among the moderns it contains, Pellizza da Volpedo s Fiumana (Stream of People) and Boccioni s Fight in the Galleria, some wax works by Medardo Rosso, sculptures by Marino Marini and Arturo Martini, and paintings by Modigliani, Carrà,Sironi and Morandi.The machine constructed to help with restoration work on the huge (5 x 3 m) Pesaro Altarpiece by Giovan Gerolamo Savoldo is particularly striking and is on display to the public thanks to a sort of laboratory in a vacuum. BRERA NATIONAL LIBRARY ; Mon-Fri 8.30 a.m p.m., Sat 9 a.m p.m. Almost at the end of the corridor,a staircase on the left leads up to the National Library:Parini s memorial plaque, which used to be on the wall of the old suburban cemetery of Moiazza, which no longer exists,can be seen at the entrance, on the left.the Braidense collection was originally started by the 24,000 books Count Carlo Pertusati bequeathed to Empress Maria Teresa in 1773,which were combined with the library of the Jesuit order when it disbanded in It has been open for consultation since 1786 and has gradually been extended through bequests, donations and acquisitions, and also by the press law (from 1788), which means it contains a copy of everything published in the province of Milan. Nowadays, with its reference computers alongside the old atlases and the shelves of the Teresiana Room piled high with old tomes, the Brera Library contains over a million books, 23,000 journals, 2360 incunabula, valuable editions by Aldo Manuzio and Giambattista Bodoni, over 2000 medieval manuscripts, and codes from the 14 th -15 th centuries.there is also the Manzoni Collection, including manuscripts and books written by the great author, as well as editions of all his works. ASTRONOMICAL OBSERVATORY AND BOTANICAL GARDEN Astronomical Observatory: ; Mon-Fri 9 a.m.-16 p.m., bookings available on Sundays; Botanical Garden: ; strutt/dipart/biodip/frambrera.html; Mon-Fri 9 a.m.-12 p.m. The Astronomical Observatory, on the left-hand side of the complex, was built in 1760 and became government property in 1773.A separate observatory was built in Merate, Brianza, in ; due to air pollution, most op- > erations have been transferred to this new site.the old equipment is on display in the Observatory corridor: you can arrange to visit the domes, one of which houses the Mertz refractor, which Giovanni Schiaparelli used in to make so many astronomical discoveries. The state-owned Botanical Garden, built in 1781 and annexed onto the Brera schools, covers an area of approximately 3500 m2. It can be glimpsed from the private road Via Fratelli Gabba, which runs alongside Via Brera. We can now slowly return back along Via Brera towards the city centre, taking the time to admire the imposing façades of the stately buildings running along it.via Brera narrows as it winds through all the antiques shops, art galleries and fashionable haunts: 18 th century buildings alternate with neo-classical elevations. Let s now return to Via Giuseppe Verdi to go to Piazza della Scala, passing the famous opera house. > LA SCALA OPERA HOUSE Piazza della Scala; ; museum: largo Ghiringhelli 1, piazza della Scala; ; Mon-Sun 9 a.m p.m. and p.m.; 5 Euros; MM1 and MM3 Duomo, MM3 Montenapoleone, tram 1, 2, bus 61 The front of Italy s most prestigious theatre and one of the most important in the world, opened in 1778, was designed by Giuseppe Piermarini, partly visible from the narrow area in front (the square was not there back then) and was judged mediocre by his contemporaries (two short terraced lateral sections were added on in 1830). In contrast, there was great enthusiasm over its elegant interiors, a TEATRO DEGLI ARCIMBOLDI combination of all the technical possibilities of the day (a tank placed over the vault was the modern fire-fighting device). The 1943 air raids caused serious damage, but as part of the city s symbolic resurrection, reconstruction work began in 1945 and lasted less than a year: on 11 th May a memorable concert by Arturo Toscanini was, for the people of Milan, a real sign of the Having hosting the Scala opera season until 2004, the Arcimboldi theatre has now been totally refurbished by the Milan Council on the basis of the project by the architects Studio Gregotti Associati, and currently boasts an events calendar full of international artists. Bigger than the Scala (approximately 2400 seats arranged in a two-level auditorium with two circles), the theatre is divided into three main areas: the foyer, the auditorium and the stage tower.the fan-shaped auditorium, measuring 49 metres at its widest point, 35 metres in length and an average height of 22 metres is divided into 4 sections: stalls, upper stalls, dress circle and upper circle.the functional use of the stage is guaranteed by the 40 metre tower.the Teatro degli Arcimboldi was the first theatre in Italy to be fitted with multi-lingual display programmes, which can be used accordingly by the individual spectator. Viale Dell Innovazione 1, (Ticket Office:Ticket One)

16 30 An Invitation to Milan From Porta Venezia to Porta Ticinese 31 city s rebirth. It took just over three years to carry out all the conservation and modernisation work on the stage systems (2004).The most obvious sign of the renovation of the theatre is the ellipse and new stage tower, which can be glimpsed behind the façade, both designed by the architect from Ticino, Mario Botta.The interior, which is entered from the left side and features the entrance ways of the 19 th -century Casino Ricordi, is striking for its elaborate ornamentation and wealth of gold and velvets. Finally, the Scala Theatre Museum is certainly well worth a visit. Its neo-classical rooms, fitted out modern-style by Pier Luigi Pizzi, display heirlooms of the greats who made the Scala a shrine to music; the Library s extensive collection of books on the theatre is also quite remarkable. meeting place for young people, particularly on Saturday afternoons due to all the clothes shops, whose sales are quite staggering. Over by Via Torino, where Via dell Unione begins, we enter S.Maria presso S.Satiro Church to be taken in by the view of a seemingly spacious presbytery, which is actually just a brilliant trompe-l oeil perspective effect devised by Bramante. A bit further on, the civic temple of S. Sebastiano bears witness to the vow taken by the local community in an attempt to stop the 1576 plague. Having reached the Carrobbio, we bear left, regrettably by-passing the 17th-century former S. Sisto Church in the road of the same name, now a studio-museum for the sculptures by Francesco Messina ( ;Thurs p.m.), in order to get to S. Lorenzo Church and the Basiliche Park. > > We now cross Piazza della Scala, which is actually a relatively recent construction. In 1857, Emperor Francesco Giuseppe allocated 300,000 Milanese lire to knock down the modest houses standing alongside the opera house, in order to open up a new square; however, most of what we can see today was actually built much later by Luca Beltrami, who designed the renovated front of Palazzo Marino and the two Banca Commerciale buildings, symbols of Milan s new banking organisation. Beltrami also created the lampposts and small garden (since altered) around the monument to Leonardo da Vinci, which the irreverent locals immediately renamed a litre between the four of them, because the sculptor Pietro Magni placed four of the master s favourite disciples at his feet.the outline of the roofs around the square was altered by the controversial 15-metre-tall grey stone elliptical form designed by the architect Mario Botta as part of renovation work carried out on the Scala Opera House through to 2004 (housing the dressing rooms and theatre canteen). We now move on to Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, which stands on the corner of the square.the Gallery, as it is simply referred to, is a favourite haunt of the Milanese with all its cafés, restaurants and shop windows full of top designer clothes. It actually deflated like a balloon on the night of 13 th August 1943 under the allied air raids, but it was rebuilt again just as it was by Inspired by the metal and glass structures seen at the World Fairs, it lets light filter through in an interplay of interior-exterior like an aquarium.the imposing glass arcade (built starting in 1864 by Giuseppe Mengoni) is intersected in the middle by two side arms creating an octagonal little square - the Octagon - beneath the tall iron and glass dome (rising up to 47 m above the floor).all toned down by mosaics (the Bull design is part of an elaborate good luck ritual) and Liberty-style frescoes. Completed by a triumphant arch in 1878, after its architect was killed in a fall from the scaffolding, the Gallery opened on 15 th September 1867, when King Vittorio Emanuele II visited it, and it soon became the city s society showcase. The North Gates of Piazza del Duomo stand at the opposite end of the Gallery, which we now cut cross in the direction of Via Torino, built between the Cathedral and Carrobbio in the 19 th century. Urban and postmodern, bereft of landscaping and full of traffic, it shields the remains of the medieval and renaissance city, notable relics of which are found in nearby streets, old churches and aristocratic residences still set along Via Stampa,Via dei Piatti and around Via S.Alessandro. It is now a slightly dilapidated but extremely busy shopping street (although the pavements have been widened towards the city centre over recent years), a popular BASILICA DI S. LORENZO MAGGIORE Corso di Porta Ticinese 39; ; Mon-Sun 7.30 a.m p.m.; trams 3, 15, bus 94 Incredibly important in the history of western architecture, its main features make it a late-16th century church, built onto an early-christian construction converted along Romanesque lines in the 12 th century.the best way to view the construction a main building with a central base covered by a dome,and a series of minor buildings from different periods radiating out around the sides and rear is to look at it from the park at the back.the temple (almost certainly a palatine basilica linked to the neighbouring imperial palaces) was built between the 4 th -5 th century in an important part of the Roman city, near the Circus and Amphitheatre, from which building material was recuperated. Three orthogonal-based buildings are set against the basilica :on the right (to the south) an imperial mausoleum, which some think was a 16 th -century Baptistery named after S.Aquilino and set just behind where the place of worship stands; opposite the entrance (to the east) a martyrium built to house the remains of S.Lorenzo and S. Ippolito and dedicated to the latter dating back to the same period as (or even before) the basilica;on the left (to the north) the small S. Sisto mausoleum, added on like the rest in the early 6 th century by Bishop Lorenzo 1 st to hold bishops tombs. The building has twice been radically rebuilt.two fires in 1071 and 1075 and then the collapse of the dome and most of the walls in 1103 meant it had to be rebuilt in Romanesque forms. But the dome collapsed again in 1573; the reconstruction work, commissioned by Carlo Borromeo,altered the base plan, softening the corners of the main hall and superimposing an octagon over a square.the dome, which is the biggest in Milan,was built as an octagon and in segments. The church was renovated in 1911 and 1916 and restored to its present state in Relics from the early- Christian period include the chapels of S.Aquilino, S. Ippolito and S. Sisto, the foundations,most of the bearing structure, and entire north-east tower; the lower section of the walls and columns still remain from the Romanesque construction.the façade was altered in 1894 by superimposing a triple-arched pronaos.the interior is remarkable for the mosaics (14 th century) in S.Aquilino Chapel, and also for the strange copy of Leonardo da Vinci s Last Supper in the ambulatory on the right, painted just after the original probably by Antonio della Corna.

17 32 An Invitation to Milan From Porta Venezia to Porta Ticinese 33 PARCO DELLE BASILICHE Entrances from via Molino delle Armi, piazza della Vetra, via Vetere, via S. Croce; April- September 6.30 a.m.-23 p.m., October-March 6.30 a.m.-10 p.m.; trams 3, 15, bus 94 > S. EUSTORGIO BASILICA AND PORTINARI CHAPEL Piazza S. Eustorgio 1; ; Mon-Sat 7.30 a.m.-12 p.m. and p.m., Sun 8.30 a.m p.m. and p.m.; Portinari Chapel: 9.30 a.m p.m. and p.m.; entrance fee charged; trams 3, 9, 14, 15, 29, 30, bus 47, 59, 74 Behind S. Eustorgio and the Diocesan, there is a large landscaped area of greenery called the Vetra, dominated by the irregular and solemn mass of S.Lorenzo Basilica:this is known as Basiliche Park. The first time you come here,come in the evening if you can: the carefully gauged lighting makes it a striking sight.the S. Lorenzo neighbourhood of Porta Ticinese is one of the most popular for the nightlife:bars whose names evoke distant places and glorious exploits, and restaurants for everyone, whatever your taste. But during the daytime, you can enjoy the park s greenery and visit two of the city s most important churches: S. Eustorgio and S. Lorenzo. Leaving the S. Lorenzo columns behind us, we move beyond medieval Porta Ticinese, the only surviving city wall (including the arches of Porta Nuova) from the 17 th century; Camillo Boito gave them their current form in , getting rid of the houses that had been built there, opening up two acute-arched passage ways through the towers, and adding Guelfian battlements at the top, Nowadays, Corso di Porta Ticinese and its immediate surroundings looks like one of the best developed parts of Milan. Originally the main thoroughfare through the old fortified old town, built by Azzone Visconti in the 16 th century, all that now remains is the layout of roads like Via S. Croce,Via Scaldasole and Conca del Naviglio.Transformed in the 19 th century and bombed during the last war, it was further altered by the creation of Basiliche Park, the covering up of the canals, and the disappearance of related craft activities, but, despite all the rebuilding, some typical buildings from the old town are still there. The churchyard of S. Eustorgio stands in the background on the right. > Possibly founded by Eustorgius 1 st in the 4 th century or built on his tomb,or alternatively constructed during the age of Ambrogio, it has been modified down the ages and is connected with the worship of the remains of the Magi, taken from the city by Federico Barbarossa; every year, at Epiphany, a costumed procession led by the Three Kings sets off for the basilica from the Cathedral.And legend has it that the underground web of catacombs actually extends to the Darsena (canal docks). The neo-romanesque style façade was actually built in the 19 th century.the little twostorey loggia with small columns is still intact over on the east corner between the church and convent. Over on the right side, which we can easily reach along quiet Via S. Croce, there are a number of irregular-shaped gentilitial chapels.the first three are from the 15 th century, and the other four from the 14 th century actually form a smooth wall marked by buttresses, where the marble bust of Matteo 1 st Visconti stands out above a shield decorated with a snake. The last chapel, that projects so much it looks like a transept, dates back to the latter half of the 13 th century.the semicircular Romanesque apse, possibly from the 11 th century, has large windows and a lovely blind gallery.the bell tower was built between in the Lombardstyle, featuring a contrast of bricks and quoin stones in the corners.the interior has three aisles separated by huge columns supporting a system of arches and crossvault. There are striking remains of votive frescoes,some in the Byzantine style from the 13 th -14 th centuries. Outstanding among all the works is the 14 th -century burial shrine to Stefano Visconti in the right-hand aisle; the Magi Chapel is in the right-hand transept, where the huge Roman sarcophagus set against the right-hand wall held what were assumed to be his remains until 1164; the unfinished marble backbone of the presbytery, built between 14 th -15 th centuries is The Inquisition Court conducted its proceedings in S. Eustorgio Convent to the north of the Dominican church before being moved to S. Maria delle Grazie in The two present-day cloisters, whose entrances are at no. 3, Piazza S. Eustorgio, host the Diocesan Museum displaying (on a rotary basis) works of art not on show to the public, borrowed from Palazzo Arcivescovile. Run by the S.Ambrogio > possibly inspired by Giovannino de - Grassi and Jacopino da Tradate.The peak of S. Eustorgio s artistry is Portinari Chapel, recognisable from the outside near the apse and constructed out of two exposed brick parallelepiped constructions. Built between , it is one of the first works from the Milanese Renaissance and was erected for Pigello Portinari, Director of the Medicean Bank. Everything combines to make this a valuable example of the late-lombard gothic period: the brick cornice, the multi-coloured stucco corners, the dome s colour scheme, and the frescoes byvincenzo Foppa;the arch dedicated to the Dominican Inquisitor, Pietro da Verona, who persecuted the Cathars and was a saint and martyr, since he was killed near Sèveso in 1252, is the work of Giovanni di Balduccio and perhaps also Bonifacio Bembo, who painted the famous pack of tarot cards and the picture of Pigello Portinari adoring St. Peter the Martyr. MUSEO DIOCESANO Corso di Porta Ticinese 95; ; 10 a.m.- 6 p.m.; 6 Euros; trams 3, 15, 20, 29, 30, bus 94 Foundation, whose members are appointed by the Archbishop of Milan, the museum holds over 300 works: part of the Monti,Visconti and Pozzobonelli collections, the entire Erba Odescalchi collection, and a number of works taken from the Diocese from 6 th -19 th centuries.the future extension to the museum complex should allow works from the 20 th century to also be displayed. We have now reached the end of our tour.the new Porta Ticinese, an isolated and monumental gateway designed by Luigi Cagnola ( ) and one of the most important works of Milanese neo-classicism, stands in Piazzale XXIV Maggio at the end of the road. On the right, we can see the canal docklands, the gateway to Milan, where Naviglio Grande ends and Naviglio Pavese begins.

18 34 Aperitifs, wine bars, pubs, bars with restaurants and disco-bars 35 3 LIVING THE CITY APERITIFS,WINE BARS, PUBS, BARS WITH RESTAURANTS AND DISCO-BARS 10 Corso Como Café BRERA-GARIBALDI Corso Como 10, Carla Sozzani s idea that has really caught on. A minimalist-style bar in relaxing shades of ochre and black and a circular metal bar in the elegant courtyard in Corso Como. Great music and excellent food featuring a few international dishes and Mediterranean sushi. Knee covers are provided in winter for braving the cold. Mainly frequented by foreigners passing through and the fashion world. Opening times: 11 a.m p.m. Closed on Monday mornings Armani Privé MANZONI-VENEZIA Via Pisoni Private club with entry at the doormen s discretion, where you can listen to music in a very relaxing atmosphere. Giorgio Armani has surpassed himself in creating a 270 m 2 space with an L-shaped bar, enveloping armchairs and even a DJ s console, all in the basement of Nobu Restaurant. The LED screen shows video clips and fashion shows. For the lucky few. Opening times: p.m. Entry with a membership card Closed on Sundays and Mondays Bar Basso STAZIONE-BUENOS AIRES-LORETO Via Plinio 39, Serving the city s best cocktails for over thirty years: all in huge glasses. It invented the sbagliato Negroni using sparking white wine instead of gin, now on the drinks list all over the world. Another gem is the so-called Mangia e Bevi, a patented drink served with either fruit or creams. The aperitif is a regular habit here, but the place is also perfect for an after-dinner drink. A piece of Milanese folklore, which divides the locals: some love it, others hate it. For the over-30s. Opening times: 9 a.m a.m.; closed on Tuesdays; cocktails cost 5.50 Euros Bar Magenta CASTLE AND SURROUNDINGS Via Carducci 13, Historic pub with fifties decor, Art Nouveau features and a gigantic circular counter. A huge choice of beers attracts regulars of all ages. A must for Milanese and out of towners. Opening times: 8-3, Saturdays and Sundays 9-3; always open; large beer 6/7 Euro Be4-Before VITTORIA-PORTA ROMANA Via Vannucci corner of via Ripamonti, , Smart decor and an informal-chic atmosphere. Cocktails are served in a room with a gallery. Here the music is rather loud but carefully selected from a choice of lounge, funky, minimal house or punk. Occasionally they have art exhibitions and events here. Opening times: 18-2;always open; cocktails 8 Euro Café Atlantique VITTORIA-PORTA ROMANA Viale Umbria 42, A popular place for celebrity-spotting it is a bar and restaurant with technological cyber furnishings and a late Baroque roped-off area for VIPs. You can dance to house and pop music in the main room while in the blue room the music is strictly hip-hop. The American brunch on Sundays from 12 to 5, with sweets, homemade pancakes, maple syrup and blueberries is lovely. Opening times: 11-3; closed Mondays and Tuesdays; entrance 16/18 Euro including a drink Cova CENTRE via Montenapoleone 8, Since 1817 it has occupied luxurious and elegant rooms with wood panelling and crystal chandeliers. Antonio Cova was the inventor of Pan di Toni, the much loved Milan panettone, although the Sacher here is truly unbeatable.toffee-nosed but ideal for an express coffee or cappuccino while you are shopping in the fashion streets. Opening times: , closed Sundays Cucchi TICINESE-NAVIGLI Corso Genova 1, A fifties pastry shop halfway between S. Ambrogio and the Navigli. An evergreen both in summer when people make a beeline for the outdoors tables- and in winter, when in the somewhat retro indoors space, people sit down to their breakfast of cappuccino and brioche or lunch of savoury filled brioches, vegetable omelettes with salad or assorted quiches. The little short-crust tarts filled with pear and chocolate are quite delicious. Opening times: 7-22; closed Monday Da Claudio BRERA-GARIBALDI Via Ponte Vetero 16, This is known as the Milanese fishmonger s and, indeed, it is one of the most patronised fishmonger s in the city. But it is also a new meeting point which, as well as offering aperitifs, is also a place where you can pop in at midday or in the late afternoon for a plate of raw fish, prepared there and then and washed down with a glass of Chardonnay. Average prices. Divina TICINESE-NAVIGLI Via Molino delle Armi corner of via Chiusa, Already famous in the eighties, for some years now the Divina has been back in fashion, thanks to architect Fabio Novembre s project and to the two weekly events on Friday and Saturday when house music takes over. Strict door policy. Opening times: ;closed from Sunday to Thursday; entrance 18/20 Euro including a drink El Tombon de San Marc BRERA-GARIBALDI Via S. Marco 20, The first real pub in Milan, once a cafe for the dockers of the locks of the Navigli. Since the sixties and seventies it has been the haunt of artists and students, seeing out fleeting fashions with good beers, sandwiches and piadine. Opening times: and ; closed Sundays; large beer 4.50 euro Exploit TICINESE-NAVIGLI Via Pioppette 3,

19 36 Living the city Aperitifs, wine bars, pubs, bars with restaurants and disco-bars 37 A must for an aperitif in the lively bar area around Colonne di San Lorenzo. In winter there is a crush at the bar while in summer in the area outside closed to traffic, people in ties and suits flock for a drink and nibbles before moving on to the Navigli. The cocktails are always excellent, the buffet is original and munificent and background music is a choice of lounge, groove and obligatory stop off. Opening times: e 18-2, Sundays and 18-2; closed Mondays; cocktails 7 Euro Fioraio Bianchi Caffè BRERA-GARIBALDI Via Montebello 7, A historic florist s transformed into a café. Everything has stayed the same but through the windows, displaying flowers and plants, objects for the home and ikebana, you can glimpse espresso coffees and cappuccinos in the morning and drinks in the evening for aperitifs or dinner until midnight. It s advisable to book. Opening times: 8-24;closed Sundays; goblet of wine 5 Euro Jamaica BRERA-GARIBALDI Via Brera 32, A famous haunt of artists and intellectuals in the sixties, it is the oldest bar in Brera. After the turmoil of the revolution it was either unable or unwilling to renew itself and its faded splendour is perhaps now of more interest to history buffs. Quasimodo and Hemingway also came this way. Opening times: 8-2;closed Sundays; cocktails 6/7,50 Euro Just Cavalli Café CASTLE AND SURROUNDINGS Viale Camoens c/o Torre Branca, , A procession of VIPs regularly shows up here at Roberto Cavalli s café in the shadow of the Torre Branca. High tech, steel and glass are mellowed by the rich furnishings in Roberto Cavalli casa style. The kitchen, producing international food, is in the capable hands of chef Leo from Patagonia, while DJs from all over the world take it in turns at the console. Opening times: , Sundays ; always open; cocktails 10 Euro Light SEMPIONE-SARPI-MONUMENTALE Via Maroncelli 8 corner of via Tito Speri, , Bars, restaurants and a super-crowded lounge in a 400m 2 former joinery. Fusion cuisine, 50 types of wine and 50 cocktails. Best to go late, following the classic aperitif hour from 7p.m. to 9 p.m. although the buffet runs until 10 p.m. Strict door policy. For mellow evenings. Opening times: 18-1; closed Mondays; cocktails 10 Euro Marchesi CASTLE AND SURROUNDINGS Via S. Maria alla Porta 11/a, Historic café with decor dating from the early nineteen hundreds. They make the classic panettone all year round (it s advisable to book it in December) as well as praline, bars of chocolate and chocolate eggs, cream cakes, eclairs. But their espresso coffee is the best: for true connoisseurs. Opening times: ; Sundays ; closed Mondays Marino alla Scala DUOMO Piazza della Scala 5, Two large art deco pillars and a counter in the centre, surrounded by slate, iron and glass, while a video screen shows soothing films of the four elements. In daytime it is ideal for a quick business lunch or for tourists, but when the lights go down it fills up with trendy Milanese nightclubbers. Opening times: ; closed Sundays N Ombra de Vin BRERA-GARIBALDI Via San Marco 22, Where once stood the refectory of the monks of the convent of S. Marco now there is one of the most prized wine stores in the city. A vast assortment of Italian and overseas wines: French, Californian, Australian, Argentinean and Chilean.Tasting seminars and sampling on invitation. Recently they have added food to go with the wine and a delightful outdoors area. Ombre Rosse STAZIONE-BUENOS AIRES-LORETO Via Plinio 29, s wine bar now transformed into an elegant wine-tasting spot offering a range of over 400 labels, accompanied by cold pork meats, hot flat bread, French cheeses and foie gras. Just a few tables, well-filled glasses, courtesy and good service. Opening times: 10 a.m.-1 p.m. and 4 p.m.-1 a.m.; closed on Sunday mornings and Mondays Peck DUOMO Via Spadari A real culinary institution offering a range of different foods, cheese, fruit and vegetables, and cold meats, with its own cheese store and porkmeat shop. It sells the highest quality caviar, biggest snails, best crab meat, ingredients for making traditional casoeûla, and rare cheeses ranging from Bitto from Valtellina to Langres, as well as fruits that look like bits of jewellery. The first floor has a delicatessen s and tea room; and there is also a wellstocked wine cellar in the basement. Princi BRERA-GARIBALDI Largo La Foppa 2, Piazza XXV Aprile 5, DUOMO Via Speronari 6, SEMPIONE-SARPI-MONUMENTALE Piazzale Istria 1, Cinesini are the speciality of the house, crispy panini shaped like French rolls, which are served up all day long. Excellent selection of rye, cereal and raison bread.the Bretzel is another speciality worth tasting. Around lunch time it serves pizza and all kinds of flat breads to be washed down with glasses of wine and other drinks. Ideal in the morning for a warm cream-filled pastry or early in the evening for a quick snack before going to see a film. Roialto SEMPIONE-SARPI-MONUMENTALE Via Piero della Francesca 55, Spectacular and eclectic interior with a mammoth counter made of wood from Cuba while snooker tables and sofas demarcate a gigantic warehouse into cosier nooks. At the weekend there is strict door policy, although you will have to queue up at the counter. Sunday brunch is taken by storm. Opening times: 18-2; closed Mondays; cocktails 6/8 Euro

20 38 Living the city Restaurants 39 San Carlo CASTLE AND SURROUNDINGS Via M. Bandello 1, Historic pastry-shop-ice-cream parlour, where it is almost impossible to leave without trying one of their many beautifully displayed chocolates, pralines, mignon pastries. Extremely popular with the young students of the nearby school, it is also a meeting point for upper class Milanese ladies who love to meet there for an espresso or a cappuccino accompanied by brioches that are always exceptionally fresh. Other specialities include orange bavaroises, apple and pear charlottes and Autumn treats including cakes with walnuts and marron glacés Opening times: ; always open RESTAURANTS Sissi VITTORIA-PORTA ROMANA Piazza Risorgimento 6, Crowded café with sublime sweets and tasty treats. Here you can buy the institutional Sacher, tarts with soft cream and little strawberries or raspberries or buttery savouries; for breakfast fragrant brioches, creamy cappuccinos and a delicious Moroccan ; at lunchtime soft filled rolls. In summer there is a tiny garden but unfortunately it is usually impossible to find a table. Opening times: 7-20; Mondays 7-12; closed Tuesdays Twelve VITTORIA-PORTA ROMANA Viale Sabotino 12, How to turn a busy daytime bar into a night spot open until the early hours: in-between an art display and a drink, you can listen to music chosen by different DJs: ranging from Jazz house to deep house and swing lounge, but never more than just background music. Opening times: 7 a.m.-2 a.m.; closed on Sundays; cocktails cost 7 Euros Victoria Café DUOMO Via Clerici 1, Renaissance-style Parisian café with red leather tables and chairs, creamcoloured silk upholstery, clear-coloured curtains on the widows, lamps, shades and red wall lamps. Serving international cocktails, some beers and whiskies to go with the pop music. It is worth taking a look round the wonderful toilets. Opening times: 5 p.m.-2 a.m.; Open every day Il Luogo di Aimo e Nadia via Montecuccoli 6, , Light years from the classic Milanese restaurants it is the ultimate in a cuisine which declares its roots to be in the noblest regional traditions yet which appears simple, sometimes almost stark, deliberately focussing on the extraordinary quality of the raw ingredients chosen with skill and passion. Opening times: midday and evenings; closed at midday on Saturdays and Sundays Al Matarel Via L.S. Mantegazza 2, corner of corso Garibaldi 75, An authentic shrine of Milanese cooking, where Mrs. Elide Moretto expertly prepares a full range of traditional local dishes, starting with the famous marrowbone with Milanesestyle risotto (which has been described as one of the best in the city) and including rostin negàa, various types of fresh pasta and some delicious strictly homemade desserts. The simple but wholesome cuisine, based on a careful selection of raw materials and typical local products, varies according to the time of year. There is a basic range of about 60 different labels of wines, mainly from Piedmont, Lombardy and other important wine-making areas in northern Italy. The restaurant is located in the Brera district, right in the middle of the city. Closed on Tuesdays and at lunch time on Wednesdays Al Porto Piazza G. Cantore, This temple of fish cuisine is housed in the ancient excise office of Porta Genova. It has many qualities: fresh fish, an excellent choice of wines, a pleasant winter garden, cheer and class, although the bill is rather steep. Their specialities include: curry and prawn risotto, cuttlefish ink risotto, sliced monkfish and light fried seafood. Opening times: and ; closed Sundays and midday on Mondays Alfredo Gran San Bernardo Via Borgese 14, Set up in 1964 by Alfredo Valli, a wellknown Milanese chef, this restaurant is still one of the historical bulwarks of regional cooking in Milan and Lombardy. The atmosphere inside the premises, which were renovated back in the 1960s, is elegantly classical with wooden floors and coffered ceilings. The restaurant changed management in 2004, but remains faithful to traditional Milanese cuisine, offering a range of typical local dishes. Closed on Sundays (and also on Saturdays in June and July), in August and over Christmas Alla Collina Pistoiese Via degli Amedei 1, Open since 1938 they serve Tuscan specialities, from bean pasta to grilled Florentine steak. A pleasant ambience which is just a little noisy, also ideal for parties and business lunches and dinners. Tuscan and Veneto wines. Opening times: midday and evenings; closed on Friday and Saturday lunchtimes Antica trattoria della Pesa Viale Pasubio 10, Faithful to the Lombard tradition from the hors d oeuvres to the desserts.this is the imperative of La Pesa though the choice of menu depends on what basic ingredients are in season.the hors d oeuvres include a fine selection of cold cuts.this is followed by sautéed rice with sliced kidneys cooked in oil with parsley and garlic, home made pasta, ossobuco, tripe, cabbage roulade and the cassoeula, the queen of Milanese end the meal there is a vanilla soufflé with chocolate. Opening times: Monday-Saturday / Biffi in Galleria Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II 92, This is probably the very soul of the

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