How To Write About Valmiera

Transcription

1 VALMIERA

2 UDK 908 (474.3) (036) Va 383 Gråmata izdota ar Valmieras pilsétas domes finansiålu atbalstu Teksta autors Jånis Kalnaçs Text Tulkotåjs Valdis Bérziñß Translator Måkslinieks Arnis RoΩkalns Layout Fotogråfi Aivars Baltmanis Photographers Agris Bergs Eduards Jegorovs Didzis Kadaks Jånis Kalnaçs Aleksejs Koziñecs Linards Pelsis Arturs Rundélis Apgåds izsaka pateicîbu Ilzei Liepai un Ivetai Blümai par sadarbîbu gråmatas izdoßanå The publishers would like to thank Ilze Liepa and Iveta Blüma for the cooperation in the preparing of the book Gråmatå izmantoti Valmieras Novadpétniecîbas muzeja un Türisma informåcijas centra materiåli Material used in this book comes from Valmiera Regional Studies Museum and Valmiera Tourist Information Center ISBN Apgåds Jumava, izdevums latvießu valodå, 2005 Jånis Kalnaçs, teksts, 2005 Arnis RoΩkalns, måkslinieciskais noforméjums, 2005 Valdis Bérziñß, tulkojums, 2005

3 Esiet sveicinåti Vidzemes centrå Valmierå! Valmiera ir pilséta, kur vienlaikus savijas pagåtne un nåkotne, senais un müsdienîgais, vecais un jaunais. Pilsétå veiksmîgi saglabåta un attîstîta raωoßana, kas ir pamats valmierießu labklåjîbai un ievérojams stürakmens tam, ka Valmieru nu pazîst ne tikai Latvijå, bet arî tålu årpus tås robeωåm. Tepat ir arî Valmieras pilsdrupas ar savu noslépumaino un savdabîgo auru, muzejs ar plaßo piedåvåjumu klåstu Valmieras véstures taku izstaigåßanai. Un tam pa vidu Gauja Valmieras galvenå iela. Valmieras lielåkå bagåtîba ir tås cilvéki gan tie, kas pilsétu izvéléjußies par savåm måjåm, gan tie, kuri Valmierå tikai ciemojas. Te paståvîgi küså un mutu o ener ijas pilni cilvéki, un viñu paveikto darbu aug i redzami vai ik uz so a. Un tas nav maz. Ne velti tradicionålie Valmieras pasåkumi Pilsétas svétki vasaras vidü, Ziedu svétki rudenî, daωådi müzikas festivåli un daudzi, daudzi citi pulcé tükstoßus apmeklétåju. Més priecåsimies arî Jüs redzét savå pilsétå. VALMIERÅ, kas DOMÅ UN RADA! Welcome to Valmiera the centre of Vidzeme! The city of Valmiera brings together the past and the future, the historic and the contemporary, the old and the new. Industrial production has been successfully maintained and developed here, underpinning the welfare of Valmiera s residents and nowadays earning Valmiera a name not only in Latvia, but also far beyond its borders. Valmiera also has its unique and mysterious castle ruins, and a museum offering to take the visitor on a trip through history. And right in the middle of our city is the River Gauja Valmiera s main street. The people of Valmiera represent the city s greatest asset those who have chosen to make their homes in the city and likewise those who have come to visit. This place is always full of energetic, bustling people, and the fruits of their work are apparent at every step. This is an important factor. Small surprise then, that Valmiera s traditional events the City Festival at the height of summer, the Flower Festival in autumn, a variety of music festivals and many others bring together thousands of people. We look forward to meeting you too in our city. VALMIERA, a city that THINKS AND CREATES! Inesis Bo is Valmieras pilsétas domes priekßsédétåjs Inesis Bo is Valmiera City Mayor

4 Apriñ a pilséta Valmiera gadå (J. K. Broces zîméjums) Valmiera as a county seat in 1795 (Drawing by J. C. Brotze) V STURE Valmiera Vidzemes lielåkå un viena no Latvijas darbîgåkajåm un senåkajåm pilsétåm, kam jau gadå bija savs ma istråts un kam tika pieß irtas Rîgas tiesîbas. Lîdz 13. gadsimtam Valmieras apkårtne ietilpa latga u, kå arî lîbießu apdzîvotajå Tålavå gadå péc Tålavas novada zemju sadalîßanas starp Rîgas arhibîskapu un Zobenbrå u ordeni tå nonåca ordeña pak autîbå. Pilsétas nosaukuma izcelsmei senåk lietoti arî varianti Wolmar, Woldemer, Wolmahr, Wolmaria ir vairåki skaidrojumi. Populåråkie no tiem saistîti ar Pleskavas negodîgo kñazu Vladimiru, kas 13. gadsimta såkumå bija Idumejas novada fogts, un Dånijas karali Valdemåru II, kas aptuveni tai paßå laikå smagå kaujå netålu no Tallinas izcînîjis uzvaru pår vietéjiem iedzîvotåjiem, pateicoties no debesîm atsütîtam karogam, kas karaspéku iedvesmojis uzvarai. Viñß licis uzcelt pilsétu ßîs uzvaras piemiñai, ko nosaucis savå vårdå. Viduslaiku Valmiera bija neliela amatnieku un tirgotåju pilséta, kas attîstîjås lîdzås pilij, ar kuru tå bija saistîta vienotå aizsardzîbas sistémå. To veidoja aizsargmüris ar diviem Rîgas un Térbatas vårtiem, pieci vai seßi bastioni, kå arî üdensß érß i Gauja un tås pieteka Råtsupîte gadå Valmiera, caur kuru gåja starptautiski nozîmîgais ce ß no Rietumeiropas uz Krievijas HISTORICAL BACKGROUND Valmiera is the largest population centre of the Vidzeme region and one of Latvia s most dynamic cities. It is also among the country s oldest cities: already in 1323 it had its own magistracy and was granted a town charter modelled on that of Riga. Up to the 13th century, the Valmiera area belonged to the district of Tålava, populated by the Latgallian and Liv peoples. In 1224, when the lands of Tålava were divided between the Archbishop of Riga and the Order of Swordbrothers, the town came under the order s control. There are various explanations for the origin of the town s name, formerly written as Wolmar, Woldemer, Wolmahr or Wolmaria. The most popular versions are connected with the dishonourable Prince Vladimir of Pskov, who was bailiff of the Idumeja district in the early 13th century, and with Valdemar II, King of Denmark, who, not far from Tallinn at about the same time, won a fierce battle against the indigenous people, when a flag sent from the heavens inspired his forces to victory. It is said that he ordered a town to be founded in memory of this triumph and named it after himself. Medieval Valmiera was a small crafts and trading town, which grew up next to the castle. The town wall had two gates: the Riga Gate and the 4

5 pilsétåm Pleskavu un Novgorodu, minéta kå Hanzas pilsétu savienîbas locekle, kuras darbîbå tå regulåri piedalîjås nåkamajos gadsimtos. Valmierå kå Livonijas eogråfiskajå centrå no lîdz gadam notika vairåk nekå 30 pilsétu sanåksmes, kurås léma par Hanzas saimnieciskajiem jautåjumiem un bieωi sanåca landtågi, kuros apsprieda Livonijas nelielajåm valstîm bütiskus politiskus jautåjumus gadå Valmierå pasludinåja ticîbas brîvîbu, tådéjådi pårtraucot protestantisma izraisîtås kato u un luteråñu reli iskås domstarpîbas gadsimtå pilsétas iedzîvotåju skaitu deviñas reizes retinåja méris. 16. gadsimta otrajå pusé un 17. gadsimta såkumå par Valmieru cînîjås un tajå pårmaiñus valdîja po i, krievi un zviedri. Livonijas kara laikå gadå krievu karaspékam neizdevås pilsétu ieñemt par ßo aplenkumu liecina akmens lodes, ko krievu karaspéks ßåva no Lucas kalna un kas iemürétas Svétå Sîmaña baznîcas kontrforså gadå Zviedrijas karalis Gustavs II Ådolfs Césu bîskapiju, kurå lîdz ar Césîm, Smilteni un Trikåtu ietilpa arî Valmiera, uzdåvinåja valsts kancleram Akselam Uksenßérnam, no kura uzvårda Valmieras erbonî saglabåjusies vérßa piere. 17. gadsimtå karadarbîbas izpostîtå Valmiera ar tikai çetriem müra namiem vairåk lîdzinåjås nelielam ciematam, kura iedzîvotåji galvenokårt nodarbojås ar lauksaimniecîbu gadå Valmiera k uva par Zviedrijas valsts îpaßumu. Zviedru laikå nojauca viduslaiku müri un jaunajå pilsétas da å izveidoja manierismam raksturîgs regulåru ielu tîklu un taisnstürveida kvartålu plånojumu, kas saglabåjies joprojåm. 18. gadsimtå Valmieru pamatîgi nopostîja gan krievu karaspéka iebrukumå Zieme u karå gadå, gan vairåkos ugunsgrékos 18. gadsimta 70. gados. 18. gadsimta 30. gados, pateicoties ValmiermuiΩas nomnieces enerå a Hallarta atraitnes Magdalénas Elizabetes un måcîtåja Kristiåna Gotlîba Neihauzena atbalstam, Valmiera k uva par kustîbas centru Vidzemé. Brå u draudzes veicinåja zemnieku garîgo un ekonomisko paßapziñu, kas ietekméja gan antifeodålo kustîbu, gan plaßåkas apkårtnes kultüra dzîvi. Viena no krasåkajåm antifeodålås kustîbas izpausmém bija Kauguru nemieri gadå, kuros piedalîjås Valmieras apkårtnes muiωu zemnieki gadå pilsétiñas teritorija bija aptuveni 240 x 270 metru. Valmieras toreizéjais izskats saglabåjies vairåkos Johana Kristofa Broces zîméjumos. Tajå bija seßi desmiti namu un iedzîvotåju vairåkums atkal nodarbojås ar amatniecîbu un tirdzniecîbu (populåråkås profesijas kurpnieki, drébnieki, galdnieki). Valmiera k uva par apriñ a pilsétu gadå éku skaits Valmierå vél nebija sasniedzis simtu. Lîdz 19. gadsimta vidum tå bija våciska pilséta, bet latvießi par namu îpaßniekiem k uva 20. gadsimta otrajå pusé gadå Valmiera bija Tartu Gate, and five or six bastions, in addition to the natural obstacles represented by the River Gauja and its tributary, the Råtsupîte. In 1365, Valmiera, lying on the international thoroughfare from Western Europe to the major Russian towns of Pskov and Novgorod, is mentioned as a member of the Hanseatic League. Held in Valmiera, which lay at the geographical centre of Livonia, were more than 30 meetings of town representatives between 1385 and 1500, deciding on economic issues relating to the Hanseatic League. Likewise, the assembly known as the Landtag was often convened in Valmiera, to discuss major political issues affecting the small states making up the Livonian Confederation. In 1554, religious freedom was declared in Valmiera, ending the conflict between Catholics and Lutherans that had begun with the rise of Protestantism. In the 15th 17th century, the town s population was devastated nine times by the plague. In the second half of the 16th and the early 17th century, the Poles, Russians and Swedes fought over Valmiera and ruled here successively. During the Livonian War, in 1560, the Russian forces failed in their attempt to take the town. Remaining from the siege are the stone cannonballs shot by the Russians from Luca Hill, later incorporated into the masonry of a buttress of St Simon s Church. In 1622, the Bishopric of Césis, which included Valmiera, Smiltene and Trikåta, was granted by Gustav II Adolf of Sweden to his chancellor Axel Oxenstierna. Deriving from his name is the forehead of an ox that appears in the town s arms. In 1680, Valmiera became the property of the Swedish crown. Under Swedish rule, the medieval walls were demolished and a regular street plan was created for the new part of the town, with rectangular town blocks, a characteristic feature of the age of Mannerism and still preserved today. In the 18th century, Valmiera was badly damaged in a Russian attack during the Northern War in 1702, and by several fires in the 1770s. In the 1730s, thanks to the support of Magdalene Elizabeth Hallart, the widow of General Hallart and leaseholder of Valmiera Estate, and of Pastor Christian Gotlieb Neuhausen, Valmiera became the centre of the Herrnhut movement (Moravian Brothers) in Vidzeme, promoting the self-confidence and economic development of the peasantry. One of the most vivid expressions of opposition to the feudal system was the peasant unrest at Kauguri in 1802, involving the peasants of the Valmiera area. The Herrnhut movement also stimulated the rise of musical and literary culture in a wide area. In 1783, Valmiera became a county seat. The area of the town measured approximately 240 x 270 m, with about 60 houses and with a population once again engaged mainly in crafts and trade. The town s 5

6 Valmieras vésturiskais centrs 20. gadsimta 30. gadu beigås The historic centre of Valmiera in the late 1930s pirmå pilséta Latvijå, kuras domé vairåkums bija latvießi. 19. gadsimta beigås un 20. gadsimta såkumå pilsétå såka darboties pirmie nelielie uzñémumi kokzå étava, audumu kråsotava, linu außanas fabrika gadå atklåja Rîgas Pleskavas dzelzce a lîniju, ap kuras staciju attîstîjås Kårliena, ko lîdz ar Pårgaujas Jaunpilsétu Valmierai pievienoja gadå. Savdabîgi piepildîts un aktîvs posms provinciålås pilsétas vésturé bija 20. gadsimta såkums, kad tås måcîbu iestådés izglîtojås vairåki desmiti zénu, kas vélåk k uva par nozîmîgiem kultüras un sabiedriskiem darbiniekiem. Íis aizrautîgais laika posms, kurå risinåjås arî gada revolücijas notikumi, attélots Påvila Rozîßa skolas gadu atmiñås balstîtajå romånå Valmieras puikas. Valmierå darbîbu ir såcis un tai ir bijusi bütiska nozîme arî vélåkå Ministru prezidenta un Valsts prezidenta Kår a Ulmaña dzîvé gadå Ulmanis strådåja par instruktoru Baltijas lauksaimnieku biedrîbå. Valmiera bijusi nozîmîga arî daudzu citu (arî müsdienu) politi u, rakstnieku, aktieru, rakstnieku, müzi u, zinåtnieku karjerå. Mazåk ir to, kas Valmierå vai tås apkårtné nodzîvojußi ilgåku müωa da u viñu vidü Valmieras vésturnieki Voldemårs Dåvids Balodis, Hermanis Enzeliñß un Laimonis Liepnieks. Pirmå pasaules kara gados Valmiera bija bég u centrs gadå te tika izßüts pirmais nacionålais karogs. Svétå Sîmaña baznîcå gada nogalé appearance at this time may be gauged from several drawings by Johann Christoph Brotze. In 1821, Valmiera still had less than a hundred houses. Up to the mid-19th century, it was a German town. Latvians acquired property in the town during the second half of the century, and in 1892, Valmiera became Latvia s first town with a majority of ethnic Latvians on the town council. In the late 19th and early 20th century, the first small businesses were set up in the town: a sawmill, a fabric dyeing works and a linen-weaving mill. The Riga Pskov railway line was opened in 1899, and the station outside Valmiera became the focus of the Kårliena district, joined to Valmiera in 1921, along with the New Town on the opposite bank of the Gauja (Pårgauja). An unusually rich and active period in this provincial town was the early 20th century, when its teaching establishments were attended by several dozens of pupils who were destined to become major figures in culture and society. This fervent period, including the events of the Revolution of 1905, is described in the novel The Boys of Valmiera (Valmieras puikas), based on the schooldays experiences of the author, Påvils Rozîtis. Valmiera was the starting point or a significant place in the career of many important historical figures, including the later Prime Minister and President of Latvia, Kårlis Ulmanis (who worked here in 1905 as an instructor for 6

7 sanåkußais Latvijas strådnieku, zemnieku un bezzemnieku kongress pasludinåja varu Våcijas neokupétajå teritorijå. Lîdz Ulmaña apvérsumam gadå pilsétas valdé vairåkums bija sociåldemokråti, kålab pilsétu tolaik dévéja par Sarkano Valmieru gadå, büvéjot Bekona eksportu, atrada årstniecisko minerålüdeni, kas joprojåm ir viens no pazîstamåkajiem ar pilsétu saistîtajiem produktiem, tautå to iesauca par Valmieras cüküdeni gados Valmiera k uva par nozîmîgu Zieme latvijas administratîvo un saimniecisko centru, bet tås iedzîvotåji strådåja galvenokårt sîkos un vidéjos amatniecîbas un rüpniecîbas uzñémumos. Valmierai tra isks bija gada septembris, kad, mainoties okupåcijas varu karaspékam, pilséta zaudéja teju visu centra vésturisko apbüvi cieta vairåk nekå 270 éku jeb treßda a visas pilsétas apbüves, arî vairåki 18. gadsimta nami. Patlaban par gadsimta mijå veidojußos pilsétu liecina vien vienståva vai divståvu koka un müra nami LimbaΩu un Leona Paegles ielå, Pårgaujå ap autoostu un dzelzce a staciju, daωas ékas saglabåjußås starp gadu jaunbüvém, kå arî izskatîgi malkas ß ünîßi ar raksturîgo otrå ståva galeriju. No mazpilsétas par pilsétu Valmieru pårvérta péckara industrializåcija, kad gan paplaßinåja bijußos uzñémumus, gan uzcéla Valmieras stiklß iedras rüpnîcu. Tå kå trüka vietéjå darbaspéka, Valmierå ieradås strådnieki no citåm PSRS republikåm. Migråcijas radîtås sociålås problémas raksturo Valmieras meiteñu jédziens. 80. gadu beigås un 90. gadu såkumå mainoties politiskajiem un ekonomiskajiem apståk iem, rüpniecîbas uzñémumiem mainîjås îpaßnieki, tomér raωoßana saglabåjås, veicinot salîdzinoßi zemu bezdarba lîmeni Valmierå. Latviska pilséta, kuras iedzîvotåju skaits pédéjos gadu desmitos saglabåjies stabils ap divdesmit septiñiem tükstoßiem. Pédéjos gados Valmierå noris aktîva galvenokårt arhitektoniski pragmatiska rakstura veikalu büvniecîba. Büvé arî jaunås pilsétas teritorijå, arî Rîgas ielå, kur top Vidzemes Olimpiskais sporta centrs. Valmierai ir noturîgas kultüras un sporta tradîcijas, kuru starpå senås müzikas festivåls, rokfestivåls, Simjüda gadatirgus, Rüdolfa Blaumaña dramatur- ijas festivåls; starptautiskais motokross Gaujas kauss, Valsts prezidentes balvas izcîña vieglatlétikå un citi pasåkumi. Pilsétå spélé viena no labåkajåm Latvijas basketbola komandåm Valmieras piens. the Baltic Agricultural Society), and other politicians, writers, actors, musicians and scientists. In the First World War, Valmiera was a centre for refugees. The first Latvian flag was sewn here in It was in St Simon s Church in Valmiera that in late 1917 the Soviet of Latvian Workers, Peasants and Landless People declared power in the territory of Latvia that was not under German occupation. Up to the time of the coup d ètat by Ulmanis, the Social Democrats had a majority on the city executive board, so the city was known in those days as Red Valmiera. In 1928, when the Bacon Export plant was being built, the medicinal mineral water was discovered, still one of the best-known products associated with the town (and still popularly known as Valmiera Pig-Water ). In the 1920s 30s, Valmiera became an important administrative and economic centre of northern Latvia. Tragic for the city were the events of September 1944, when, in the struggle between the occupying German and Soviet forces, virtually all the historic buildings of the town centre were lost. Altogether more than 270 buildings, or a third of the total, were damaged, including several 18th century houses. A reflection of the former appearance of the town, as it was at the turn of the 20th century, is seen only in the one- and two-storey wooden and brick houses on LimbaΩu Street and Leona Paegles Street, in the Pårgauja district around the bus station and railway station, and in some other older buildings preserved in between the new architecture of the 1960s 80s. These include several fine woodsheds with a characteristic top-floor gallery. Industrialisation after the war turned Valmiera from a town into a city. The existing factories were extended, and the Valmiera Glass Fibre Plant was built. Since the local workforce was insufficient, workers were brought in from other republics of the USSR. When the political and economic situation changed in the late 80s and early 90s, the industrial enterprises changed hands, but production continued, so that the level of unemployment in Valmiera remained comparatively low. It is a predominantly ethnic Latvian town, whose population has remained stable in recent decades at around 27 thousand. Valmiera has seen major construction work in recent years mainly the pragmatic architecture of big stores. The building work has extended to areas that were previously open land. The Vidzeme Olympic Sports Centre is being built in one such previously unoccupied location on Rîgas Street. Valmiera has strong cultural and sporting traditions: the early music festival and rock festival, the Simjüds Annual Fair, the Rüdolfs Blaumanis Drama Festival, the international Gauja Cup in motocross, the competition for the President s Prize in athletics and other events. The city is home to one of Latvia s top basketball teams Valmieras piens. 7

8 8

9 PILSDRUPAS Iespéjams, Valmieras pili Zobenbrå u ordenis såka celt 13. gadsimta såkumå vietå, kur pirms tam varéja atrasties latga u pils. Bet var büt, ka vienlaikus ar Svétå Sîmaña baznîcu gadå to såka büvét Zobenbrå u ordeña péctecis Livonijas ordenis. Viduslaikos ßî pils, kurå uzturéjås fogts vai tiesnesis, lîdz ar Åraißu, Burtnieku, Césu, LugaΩu un Trikåtas pili ietilpa Césu komturijå gadå da éji sabrukußo pili ieñéma un nopostîja Krievijas cara Pétera I karaspéks, ko Zieme u kara laikå vadîja gråfs Íeremetjevs. Péc tam tås nojaukßanu turpinåja pilsétas iedzîvotåji, mürus izmantojot büvmateriåliem. Nav ziñu par Valmieras pils såkotnéjo izskatu, bet lîdz 16. gadsimtam tås åréjie müri veidoja neregulåru, kalna formai atbilstoßi izstieptu daudzstüri. 17. gadsimta beigu aprakstå minétais dienvidrietumu korpuss lîdz müsdienåm nav saglabåjies. Tå otrajå ståvå atradås lielåka zåle, kurå gadsimtå, iespéjams, notika Livonijas landtågi. Pils arheolo isko izpéti såka 20. gadsimta 30. gadu beigås, mekléjot liecîbas, ka pirms tås ßajå vietå atradies latga u Beverînas pilskalns. Izpéti turpinåja gadu mijå, kad tika atsegti iepriekß nezinåmå zviedru laika pildreω a konstrukcijå büvétå zieme rietumu korpusa pagrabi. To såka büvét gadå, un tas, nogalinot vairåkus cilvékus, droßi vien tika sagrauts, kad krievu karaspéks ieñéma un nodedzinåja Valmieru. Atrasto pagrabu un pazemes ejas, kå arî pils dienvidu un zieme u aizsargmüra fragmentu konservåciju pabeidza gadå, kad uzlika véjrådîtåju ar Livonijas ordeña krustu. Krievu literatüras vésturé Valmieras pils tiek pieminéta kå vieta, kur pie Polijas kara a pårbégußais karavadonis kñazs Andrejs Kurbskis rakstîja atmaskojoßas véstules Krievijas caram Ivanam Bargajam, kas Latvijas vésturiskajos avotos karaspéka neωélîbas dé bieωi dévéts par Jåni Briesmîgo. THE CASTLE RUINS It is possible that the castle was built in the 13th century by the Order of Swordbrothers on the site of an earlier Latgallian castle. Equally, it may be that construction of the castle was begun simultaneously with the building of St Simon s Church in 1283 by the successor of the Order of Swordbrothers the Livonian Order. In the Middle Ages, this castle the residence of the local bailiff or magistrate belonged to Césis Commandery, along with the castles of Åraißi, Burtnieki, Césis, LugaΩi and Trikåta. In 1702, the partly-collapsed castle was taken and sacked by the forces of Russian Tsar Peter I, led during the Northern War by Count Sheremetev. The destruction was continued by the townspeople, who used the walls as a stock of building material. There is no evidence regarding the original appearance of Valmiera Castle. Up to the 16th century, the castle s outer walls formed a long, irregular polygon, corresponding to the shape of the hill. The South-West Block, mentioned in a description from the late 17th century, has not been preserved up to the present day. On the first floor, it had a large hall, where the meetings of the Livonian Landtag may have been held in the 15th and 16th century. Archaeological excavation began at the castle in the late 1930s, seeking evidence that this had previously been the site of the Latgallian hill-fort Beverîna. Excavation continued in the years around 1990, when the cellars were unearthed of the previously unknown North-West Block, built in timber-frame construction. The building of this block began in It was probably destroyed, killing several people, when the Russian forces took Valmiera and sacked it. Conservation of the cellars and underground passageway, as well as the surviving parts of the castle s south and north walls, was completed in 2002, when a wind-vane showing the cross of the Livonian Order was put up. Valmiera Castle features in Russian literary history as the place where the military leader Prince Andrei Kurbsky, who had fled to join the King of Poland, wrote letters denouncing the Russian Tsar Ivan the Terrible. 9

10 VECÅ APTIEKA gadå bårddzinis un irurgu cunftes meistars Johans Nikolajs Ívarcs da éji uz pils aizsargmüra pamatiem uzcéla senåko Valmieras dzîvojamo éku. To iegådåjås medicînas doktors Johans Volråts Reihenaus un gadå tajå atvéra aptieku, kas darbojås vairåk nekå divsimt gadu. 19. gadsimtå tå izveidojås par éku kompleksu, kurå ietilpa vél trîs koka un müra korpusi gadå Veco aptieku iegådåjås Valmieras pilséta, un tå bija pirmå aptieka Baltijå, kas piederéja kådai paßvaldîbai. No lîdz gadam Veco aptieku, kas vairåkus gadu desmitus bija sadalîta mazos dzîvok os, atjaunoja agråkajå izskatå un pielågoja gadå nodibinåtå Valmieras Novadpétniecîbas muzeja vajadzîbåm. Íim nolükam izmantoja arî péckara gados ASV dzîvojußå gleznotåja Rüdolfa Voldemåra Vîtola sievas Olgas testamentå vél pirms Latvijas neatkarîbas atjaunoßanas novélétos lîdzek us. THE OLD PHARMACY In 1735, the barber and Master of the Surgeons Corporation Johann Nicholaus Schwarz built the oldest preserved dwelling-house in Valmiera, partly on top of the foundations of the old castle wall. The house was bought by medical doctor Johann Wohlrat Reichenau, and in 1756 a pharmacy opened here, remaining in business for more than two hundred years. In the 19th century, it developed into a complex of buildings, which included another three wooden and masonry blocks. In 1912, the Old Pharmacy was bought by the city of Valmiera, becoming the first pharmacy in the Baltic owned by a municipality. In , the Old Pharmacy building, which had for several decades been divided into small flats, was restored in its former appearance and adapted to the needs of the Valmiera Museum of Regional Studies (founded in 1959). The project was funded partly from money bequeathed even before the restoration of Latvia s independence by painter Rüdolfs Voldemårs Vîtols wife Olga, living in the USA after the war. 10

11 11

12 SKULPTËRA VALMIERAS PUIKAS, kas saistîta ar populåråko literåro darbu par pilsétu, ir télnieces Timiånas Munkéviças diplomdarbs, gadå beidzot Måkslas akadémiju. Tajå lîdz ar satraukti romantisko 20. gadsimta såkumu, ir netießas norådes uz rakstniekiem Påvilu Rozîti un Linardu Laicenu, kå arî télnieku Emîlu Melderi. THE SCULPTURE BOYS OF VALMIERA, which is connected with the most popular literary work set in the town, is the diploma work of sculptress Timiåna Munkéviça, who graduated from the Academy of Art in Conveying the excitement and romance of the early 20th century, it also includes indirect references to writers Påvils Rozîtis and Linards Laicens, and sculptor Emîls Melderis. 12

13 VALTERKALNIˆÍ ir 17. gadsimtå zviedru laikå izveidots ravelîns, kas savu vårdu ieguvis no pazîstamåkås Valmieras baltvåcu dzimtas årstiem un måcîtåjiem Valteriem, kam piederéja viena no Valmieras muzeja éku komplekså ietilpstoßajåm nedaudzajåm pilsétas ékåm, kas saglabåjusies no 18. gadsimta. Izcilåkais ßîs dzimtas pårståvis ir bîskaps Ferdinands Valters, Vidzemes virskonsistorijas enerålsuperintendants un Vidzemes Skolotåju seminåra izveides iniciators. Izteikts pieñémums, ka Valterkalniñß varétu büt bijis kåds no sençu pilskalniem Autîne. Koka paviljons atjaunots, izmantojot 20. gadsimta såkuma pastkartés iemüωinåto ßai vietå iederîgo büvi. VALTERKALNIˆÍ The hill is in fact a defensive structure or ravelin from the 17th century, created in the time of Swedish rule. It obtained its name from the most prominent Baltic German family in Valmiera the Walter family of doctors and pastors, who owned the one of the few buildings in the town remaining from the 18th century, now forming part of the complex of buildings of Valmiera Museum. The most outstanding member of this family was Bishop Ferdinand Walter, Superintendent-General of the High Consistory of Livland and the founding figure behind the Vidzeme Teachers Seminary. It has been suggested that this is the site of Autîne, one of the ancient hillforts. A wooden pavilion has been recreated here, based on early 20th century postcard views of the structure enhancing this site. 13

14 14

15 SV TÅ SÈMAˆA BAZNÈCA ir nozîmîgåkais Valmieras vairåk nekå 700 gadu ilgås véstures piemineklis, kas veltîts Kristus måceklim. Tå celtniecîbu såka gadå, par baziliku to pårbüvéja gadsimtå. Müsdienu izskatå, kas no viduslaikiem atß iras galvenokårt ar gadå pabeigto barokålo torni, baznîcu atjaunoja péc tås nopostîßanas gadå. Svétå Sîmaña baznîca ir viens no bütiskåkajiem viduslaiku sakrålås arhitektüras pieminek iem Latvijå, kuras arhitektüru ietekméjis gan romånikas, gan gotikas stils. Pagåjußå gadsimta gadu mijå, kad draudze bija spiesta savu dievnamu atståt, to da éji restauréja un pårvérta par Valmieras muzeja koncertu un izståωu zåli. Protestantu baznîcåm raksturîgajå atturîgajå interjerå lîdz ar daωåm viduslaiku kapu plåksném un to fragmentiem atrodas vairåki restauréti jaunåku laiku måkslas darbi. 18. gadsimta altåris un kancele ar apgleznotiem pildiñiem, kuros attéloti luteråñu dievnamiem tipiskie apustu u un evañ élistu téli, ValmiermuiΩas îpaßnieka Lévenßterna dåvåtå viña kådreizéjå måjskolotåja, Drézdenes Måkslas akadémijas profesora Kår a Kristiåna Fogela-Fogelßteina altårglezna Kristus kårdinåßana (1842. gads). r eles par KokmuiΩas îpaßnieka Teodora Írédera lîdzek iem gadå izgatavotas Fridriha Ladegasta darbnîcå Veisenfelså (Våcijå). Lîdzås altårda as sienai zem liepas apglabåta ValmiermuiΩas nomniece Elizabete Hallarte, bet netålu no ieejas atrodas télnieka Andra Vårpas piemineklis pirmajam draudzes latvießu måcîtåjam, kå arî rakstniekam Jånim Neilandam. Baznîca un tås apkårtne saistîta ar vairåkiem svarîgiem vésturiskiem notikumiem gadå Valmieras landtåga laikå tajå spredi oja no Våcijas ieradies luterånisma sludinåtåjs Silvestrs Tegetmeijers. Pie tås 18. gadsimtå un 19. gadsimta såkumå vairåkkårt izpildîti sodi zemnieku dumpju dalîbniekiem arî gada Kauguru zemnieku nemieru vadoñiem. ST SIMON S CHURCH, dedicated to one of the disciples of Christ, is the most important witness to Valmiera s 700-year history. Building work began in 1283, and in the 14th 15th century it was altered into a basilica. The main feature added since the Middle Ages is the Baroque steeple, completed in The church was renovated after the destruction of St Simon s Church is one of Latvia s most important examples of medieval church architecture, showing both Romanesque and Gothic influence. Around 1960, the congregation was forced out of the church: it was partially restored and transformed into a concert and exhibition hall for Valmiera Museum. The characteristically austere interiors of this Protestant church preserve some whole and fragmentary medieval gravestones and several restored works of art from more recent times. There is an 18th century altar and pulpit with painted panels showing the figures of the Apostles and Evangelists, as is typical for a Lutheran church. The altarpiece The Temptation of Christ (1842), by Carl Christian Vogel von Vogelstein, Professor at Dresden Academy of Fine Art, was donated by Levenstern, the owner of Valmiera Estate, where the painter had once worked as tutor. The organ was made at the workshop of Friedrich Ladegast in Weissenfels (Germany) in 1886, at the expense of Theodor Schroeder, owner of KokmuiΩa Manor. Buried under a lime tree next to the chancel wall is Elizabeth Hallart, the leaseholder of Valmiera Estate, and near the entrance is a monument by sculptor Andris Vårpa to writer Jånis Neilands, who was the first Latvian pastor here. The church and its environs are connected with several major historical events. In 1525, the Lutheran evangelist Sylvester Tegetmeyer, arrived from Germany, preached here during the time of the Landtag meeting. Outside the church, rebellious peasants were punished several times in the 18th and early 19th century including the leaders of the 1802 peasant rising at Kauguri. 15

16 SV TÅ RADOˆEÛAS SERGIJA BAZNÈCA Pareizticîgo draudze Valmierå såka darboties gadå, bet gadu vélåk tika uzcelta koka baznîca. Latvießu zemnieku pårießanu pareizticîbå veicinåja 19. gadsimta vidü izplatîjußås baumas, ka, mainot konfesijas, büs iespéjams iegüt arî zemi un lopus gadå büvuzñéméjs Jånis Meñ elis uzcéla müra baznîcu. Tå ir viena no pareizticîgo baznîcåm, ko projektéja pirmais latvießu arhitekts Jånis Frîdrihs Baumanis un kas Vidzemes guberñå tika uzbüvétas par Krievijas valdîbas lîdzek iem aktîvas rusifikåcijas laikå. Eklektisma krievu bizantießu stila arhitektüras formas iemiesotas Latvijas büvniecîbai mazpilsétås un muiωås ßai laikå îpaßi bieωi izmantotos materiålos pléstå laukakmenî un sarkanos måla ie e os. Tai lîdzås atrodas pareizticîbå pårgåjußå Mujånu muiωas barona Morica fon Mengdena dzimtas neoromåniskå kapliça (1903. gads). THE CHURCH OF ST SERGIUS OF RADONEZH A Russian Orthodox congregation was established in Valmiera in 1846, and a wooden church was built a year later. The conversion of Latvian peasants to Orthodoxy was promoted in the mid- 19th century by rumours that by converting, they would also obtain land and livestock. In , builder Jånis Meñ- elis built the stone church here. This is one of the Orthodox churches designed by the first Latvian architect Jånis Frîdrihs Baumanis and built in the Province of Livland at the expense of the Russian government during the time of active Russification. This example of Eclectic architecture in Byzantine style has been created using the materials generally utilised in small towns and manors in Latvia at this time split boulder stone and red brick. Next to the church is the Neoromanesque family tomb (1903) of Baron Moritz von Mengden, owner of Mujåni Manor, who had converted to Orthodoxy. 16

17 SV TÅS JAUNAVAS MARIJAS ROMAS KATOÒU BAZNÈCA Kato u draudze Valmierå atsåka darboties 20. gadsimta 30. gadu vidü. Formås vienkårßais dievnams tika uzcelts, izmantojot Viß u 17. gadsimta kato u baznîcu, kuras Latgales måkslas vésturé nozîmîgais sienas un griestu gleznojums imitéja klasicismam raksturîgu arhitektonisko un télniecisko dekoru gadå Viß u baznîcu nojauca un pårveda uz Valmieru. 50. gadu vidü koka éku apßuva ar ie e iem, vélåk apmeta un nokråsoja. Jaunåkas kristîgås konfesijas adventistu dievnams, kam askétiskas formas un nedaudz izteiksmîgåks portåls, tika uzcelts 20. gadsimta 30. gados. Tajå péc izlikßanas no Svétå Sîmaña baznîcas vairåk nekå divdesmit gadu notika arî Valmieras evañ éliski luteriskås draudzes dievkalpojumi. THE ROMAN CATHOLIC CHURCH OF THE HOLY VIRGIN MARY The Roman Catholic congregation at Valmiera was re-established in the mid-1930s. The simple forms of the church are in fact those of the 17th century Viß i Catholic Church, whose ceiling-pieces and murals, important for art history of Latgale, imitate Classical architectural and sculptural decoration. In 1939, Viß i Church was dismantled and brought to Valmiera. In the mid- 50s, the wooden building was bricked over. Later, a layer rendering was added and the building was painted. The church of the most recent Christian denomination the Seventh Day Adventists with its ascetic forms and somewhat more expressive portal, was built in the 1930s. For more than two decades, after being forced out of St Simon s, the Valmiera Evangelical Lutheran Congregation also held its services here. 17

18 RÅTSLAUKUMS Kådreizéjås viduslaiku pilsétas neatñemamå saståvda a tirgus laukums savas funkcijas pildîja lîdz pat 30. gadu vidum. Paßreizéjo izskatu tas ieguva péc tam, kad 30. gadu nogalé, gatavojoties gadå Helsinkos nenotikußajåm olimpiskajåm spélém un veicinot vietéjo türismu, uzcéla viesnîcu (arhitekts Kårlis Cinåts). Péckara gados to paaugstinåja par vienu ståvu un tur pårcélås rajona un pilsétas paßvaldîbas. Valmieras arhitekta Ivara Martinsona projekts respekté vésturiskås vides ierobe- Ωojoßås iespéjas. Tå malå ékas, kurå atrodas Valmieras teåtra administråcijas telpas un aktieru érbtuves, vietå gadå uzcéla tiesas namu. Necilo vienståva koka éku, kurå kopß 18. gadsimta beigåm darbojås Valmieras råte, bet vélåk lîdz gadam atradås pilsétas valde, nojauca gadå. Råtslaukumå bieωi notiek pasåkumi, arî atjaunotais vésturiskais Simjüda (no apustu u Sîmaña un Jüdas vårda) gadatirgus un Ziemassvétku tirdziñß. THE TOWN SQUARE This essential element of a medieval town the market square retained its functions right up to the mid-1930s. It obtained its present appearance after a hotel (designed by Kårlis Cinåts) was built here to promote tourism in the late 1930s, in the run-up to the planned 1940 Helsinki Olympics. In the post-war years, another floor was added and the district and city municipal authorities were transferred here. The design, by Valmiera architect Ivars Martinsons, respects the restrictions imposed by this historic setting. Next to this site, the courthouse had been built in 1789, on the spot where Valmiera Theatre now has its administrative offices and dressing rooms. This humble single-storey building, the home of the Town Council from the late 18th century onwards, and the City Executive Board up to 1926, was demolished in Many events are held in the Town Square, including the re-enlivened historic Simjüds Annual Fair (the name deriving from the Apostles Simon and Jude). 18

19 HANZAS SIENA ir namu fasådes gleznojums Valmieras centrå. Tas tapa, lai atgådinåtu par Valmieras tikpat kå zudußo viduslaiku posmu. Gleznojuma autori Jånis Tançers un Zane Gudina. Tajå apvienoti Abrahama Ortéliusa gada kartes fragments, Hanzas savienîbas varenîbas laika raksturîgais pårvietoßanås lîdzeklis koge un Valmieras senåkais erbonis, kas saglabåjies gada zîmoga nospiedumå. THE HANSA WALL is a mural enhancing house facades, in the centre of Valmiera, created as a reminder of the city s medieval heritage, which has virtually all been lost. The mural is the work of Jånis Tançers and Zane Gudina. It includes a fragment of a 1570 map by Abraham Ortelius, a picture of a cog the characteristic means of transport in the heyday of the Hanseatic League, and the earliest coat of arms of Valmiera, preserved in the form of an impression from

20 VALMIERAS VALSTS ÌIMNÅZIJA gadå Valmierå såka darboties skolotåju seminårs, jo Valkas pilsétas valde nepieß îra zemi tå büvniecîbai Valkå. Rîgas måcîbu apgabala arhitekta A. Kîzelbaßa projektéto skolotåju seminåra éku netålu no Gaujas, toreizéjås pilsétas nomalé, pabeidza gadu vélåk. No dzelteniem un sarkaniem ie e iem celtå éka laika gaitå zaudéjusi tås vidusda å bijußo torni ar pareizticîgo baznîcåm raksturîgo sîpolveida kupolu, bet tås korpusu sareω îto izvietojumu, kas plånå atgådina burtu E, médz saistît ar vårdu evañ élijs. Skolotåju seminåra darbîbas laikå lîdz Pirmajam pasaules karam tajå måcîjußies gan vélåk atzîti skolotåji, gan pazîstami sabiedriskie un kultüras darbinieki, måkslinieki, rakstnieki Gustavs Klucis, Hermanis Aplociñß, Péteris Kundziñß, rakstnieki Jånis Ezeriñß un Leons Paegle, vésturnieks Jånis Straubergs, komponists Jékabs Graubiñß. Vairåkus seminåra audzékñus no tå izslédza par piedalîßanos gada revolücijå. Tagad ßajå ékå darbojas Valmieras Valsts imnåzija. VALMIERA GRAMMAR SCHOOL The Teacher s Seminary opened in Valmiera in 1902 simply because the authorities in the town of Valka would not grant land for building it. The building for the Seminary, designed by the Riga School District architect A. Kieselbasch and sited not far from the Gauja, at that time on the outskirts of the town, was completed a year later. The yellow-and-red brick building has in the course of time lost its central tower with the characteristic onion-shaped cupola of Orthodox churches. The complicated E-shaped layout of the blocks is generally regarded as representing the word Evangel. Up to the time of the First World War, the Teachers Seminary was attended by many later wellknown teachers, prominent social activists, cultural figures, artists and writers. These include artists Gustavs Klucis and Péteris Kundziñß, writers Jånis Ezeriñß and Leons Paegle, historian Jånis Straubergs and composer Jékabs Graubiñß. Several seminary pupils were expelled for participating in the Revolution of Nowadays, the building is home to Valmiera Grammar School. 20

21 VALMIERAS 5. VIDUSSKOLA Trîsdesmito gadu otrås puses valsts labvélîgo attieksmi pret sabiedrisko büvju celtniecîbu apliecina vairåkas Valmieras ékas, arî gadå çekistu nogalinåtå Arnolda Çuibes projektétås neoeklektiskås skolu ékas 5. vidusskola (såkotnéji Valmieras komercskola) un zemga u virsaißa Viestura vårdå nodévétå 3. vidusskola, kas saglabåjußas ne tikai büvformas, bet arî ne vienu vien laikam raksturîgu interjera deta u. VALMIERA 5TH SECONDARY SCHOOL The favourable attitude of the state towards the provision of new public buildings in the second half of the 1930s is attested by several examples in Valmiera. These include the Neoeclectic schoolhouses designed by Arnolds Çuibe (who was killed by the Soviet secret police in 1941): the 5th Secondary School (originally Valmiera School of Commerce) and the 3rd Secondary School, named after the ancient Semigallian chieftain Viesturs, which has preserved not only its external appearance, but also various details of the interior characteristic of that period. 21

22 VIDZEMES AUGSTSKOLA gadå Vidzemes paßvaldîbu dibinåtå re ionålå augstskola gadå k uva par valsts augståko måcîbu iestådi. Vidzemes Augstskola ir viena no prestiωåkajåm Latvijas augstskolåm. Türisma organizåcijas un vadîbas, Informåciju tehnolo ijas, Politolo ijas, Sabiedrisko attiecîbu un Biznesa vadîbas noda å måcås vairåk nekå 1100 studentu. Lielåkå da a augstskolas studentu ir no Vidzemes. VIDZEME UNIVERSITY COLLEGE Regional college, established in 1996 by the local authorities of Vidzeme in 2001 turned into a state higher education institution. Vidzeme University College is one of Latvia s most prestigious higher education establishments. More than 1100 students study in the departments of Tourism Organisation and Management, Information Technologies, Political Science, Communication and Public Relations, and Business Administration. 22

23 VALMIERAS MÅKSLAS VIDUSSKOLA Izstiepto Valmieras draudzes skolas namu uzcéla gadå nodegußås ékas vietå. Íî måcîbu ieståde tajå darbojås lîdz pat pagåjußå gadsimta 20. gadiem. Draudzes skolas telpas izmantoja arî gadå dibinåtais Vidzemes draudzes skolotåju seminårs, kas lîdz gadam skolotåja un tautas dziesmu våcéja Jåña Cimzes (viñß zîméjis ßîs ékas plånu) vadîbå darbojås Valmierå. Kopß gada izremontéto éku izmanto Valmieras Måkslas vidusskola, kas vélåk tika pårveidota par Vidzemé vienîgo måkslas vidusskolu. Lîdzås tai atrodas péc senåm fotogråfijåm rekonstruétå akmens müra saimniecîbas éka. VALMIERA SECONDARY ART SCHOOL The long building originally housing the Valmiera Parish School was built on the site of an earlier building that burned down in This teaching establishment functioned right up to the 1920s. The Parish School premises were also utilised by the Vidzeme Parish Teachers Seminary, established in 1839, which existed in Valmiera up to 1849, headed by teacher and folksong collector Jånis Cimze (who drew a plan of this building). Since 1984, the renovated building has been the home of Valmiera Secondary Art School, later transformed into Vidzeme s only secondary school of art. The outbuilding next to it is a reconstruction of a historic stone building, recreated after old photographs. 23

24 UNIBANKAS VALMIERAS FILIÅLES KA Såkotnéjå Valsts zemes bankas Valmieras noda- as éka ir viens no tîråkajiem funkcionålisma stila paraugiem Latvijå un arhitekta Anßa Kalniña labåkais darbs. Kopß uzcelßanas ( gads) éka izmantota finanßu darbîbai. 20. gs. 90. gados to remontéjot, ievérota bijîga attieksme pret ori inålo interjeru, gan saglabåjot daωådas interjera un apdares deta as, gan restauréjot kråsojumu vairåkås Unibankas Valmieras filiåles publiski pieejamås telpås. VALMIERA BRANCH OF THE UNIBANK The building originally constructed for the Valmiera Branch of the State Land Bank represents one of Latvia s purest examples of Functionalist architecture, the finest work by architect Ansis Kalniñß. The building has been home to financial institutions ever since it was built, in In the course of renovation work in the 1990s, care was taken to preserve various details of the original interiors and restore the paintwork in several publicly-accessible rooms in what is now the Valmiera Branch of the Unibank of Latvia. 24

25 VIDZEMES APGABALTIESA Neoeklektisko éku péc arhitekta Kår a Cinåta projekta uzcéla îsi pirms Otrå pasaules kara gadå. Padomju okupåcijas laikå éku, ko dévéja par Balto måju, izmantoja Latvijas Komunistiskås partijas komiteja un Valmieras rajona Tautas deputåtu padome. Labi uzturétajå namå saglabåjusies vairåku telpu interjera apdare, jo îpaßi uzmanîbas vérta zåle ar renesanses stilå veidotu interjeru otrajå ståvå. VIDZEME REGIONAL COURT This Neoeclectic building, designed by Kårlis Cinåts, was built just before the Second World War, in Popularly known as the White House, during the Soviet occupation this building housed the local Committee of the Latvian Communist Party and the Valmiera District Soviet of Peoples Deputies. In this well-maintained building, the original interior décor is preserved in several rooms. Noteworthy is the first-floor hall with its Renaissance-style interiors. 25

26 UGUNSDZ S JU TORNIS 20. gadsimtå såkumå Valmierå bija divi lîdzîgi no sarkanajiem ie- e iem büvéti ugunsdzéséju torñi. Otrs atradås tirgus laukumå iepretî Valmieras Svétå Sîmaña baznîcai tagadéjå paßvaldîbas nama vietå. Íajå industriålås arhitektüras mantojuma paraugå izmantoti no viduslaiku pi u sargtorñiem aizgüti elementi. THE FIRE TOWER At the beginning of the 20th century, Valmiera had two similar redbrick fire towers. The second was on the Market Square, opposite St Simon s Church, on the present site of the local authority building. This historic example of industrial architecture utilises elements borrowed from medieval defensive towers. AMATNIEKU NAMIˆÍ Arhitekta Gustava Lenåna privåtmåja, ko péc viña projekta uzcéla 30. gadu vidü, saudzîgi izmantojot dabisko reljefu, ir Latvijas arhitektürå reti sastopams Art Deco stila paraugs. THE CRAFTSMEN S MAISONETTE The home of architect Gustavs Lenåns, which he designed in the mid-1930s, making sensitive use of the natural relief, is a rare example in Latvia of Art Deco architecture. 26

27 27

28 STÅVIE KRASTI ir vairåkus simtus metru garais Gaujas krasta atsegums, kas 19. gadsimta beigås k uva par valmierießu iecienîtu atpütas vietu. Pirms gadiem trîsdesmit, çetrdesmit ßî vieta ce veωos tika minéta kå îpaßi nozîmîga tådé, ka to gadå bija apmekléjis ASV komunistu partijas dibinåtåjs un gråmatas par bo ßeviku apvérsumu Péterburgå 10 dienas, kas satricinåja pasauli autors DΩons Rîds. THE STEEP RIVERBANK, stretching for several hundred metres along the Gauja, became a favourite leisure area for Valmiera residents in the late 19th century. Thirty or forty years ago, this location was mentioned in guidebooks as being particularly important, because it had been visited in 1917 by John Reed, founder of the Communist Party of the USA and author of the book Ten Days that Shook the World, about the Bolshevik coup in Petrograd. 28

29 KAZU KRÅCES atrodas vienu Gaujas lîkumu pirms pilsétas centra un var sagådåt daωus satraucoßus brîωus, ierodoties Valmierå ar laivu no Strençu puses. Péc gada postoßajiem plüdiem, kad upe aizskaloja da u piekrastes p aviñas, abi upes krasti nostiprinåti ar på iem. 80. gadu beigås te tika uzsåkti darbi, nedaudz saßaurinot Gaujas gultni, lai izveidotu droßåku un åtråku trasi airéßanas slaloma treniñiem un sacensîbåm. THE KAZU ( GOAT ) RAPIDS, on the first bend in the River Gauja upstream of the city, may provide some thrilling moments for all those arriving in Valmiera by boat from the direction of Strençi. After the major floods of 1926, when the riverbank meadows were partly washed away, both banks of the river were reinforced with piles. In the late 1980s, work began here to slightly narrow the bed of the Gauja in order to create a safer and faster whitewater slalom course for training and races. 29

30 30

31 VALMIERAS TILTI Lîdz gadam, kad tajå paßå vietå, kur tagad atrodas pilsétas nozîmîgåkais tilts, uzcéla pirmo tiltu pår Gauju, kas savienoja abas pilsétas da as, Valmierå no KaugurmuiΩas varéja nok üt, izmantojot pårceltuvi. Netålu no tilta atrodas kådreizéjie ledus pagrabi. Nogåzé virs tiem vismaz septiñdesmit gadu ik vasaru tiek atjaunota pu udobe ar Valmieras vårdu. Valmierå pår Gauju ir çetri tilti divi no tiem gåjéju. Vanßu tilts atrodas netålu no Pauku priedém, kur pavasaros tiek rîkots Valmieras rokfestivåls. Pa Vanßu tiltu Pårgaujas iedzîvotåji var åtråk nok üt Jåña Daliña stadionå vai pilsétas estrådé. Senåkais Valmieras tilts ir gadå uzbüvétais AinaΩu Valmieras Smiltenes ßaurslieΩu dzelzce a tilts, kura dzelzs konstrukcija novietota uz laukakmens müra balstiem. Péc dzelzce a slégßanas 70. gados tilts lîdz ar dzelzce a uzbérumu k uvis par kåjåmgåjéju un riteñbraucéju iecienîtu ce u. THE BRIDGES OF VALMIERA Up to 1865, when the first bridge spanning the Gauja was built on the present location of the main bridge connecting the two parts of the town, Valmiera was accessible from Kauguri Manor only by ferry. Not far from the bridge are the old ice cellars. Recreated every summer for at least seventy years on the slope above is a flowerbed displaying the town s name. Valmiera has four bridges across the Gauja, two of which are pedestrian bridges. The Suspension Bridge is near the Paukas Pines, where the Valmiera Rock Festival is held in spring. It gives Valmiera residents easy access to the Jånis Daliñß Stadium and the city s open-air stage. Valmiera s oldest bridge is the one built for the AinaΩi Valmiera Smiltene Narrow Gauge Railway in The steel superstructure is placed on piers of boulder masonry. After the line was closed in the 1970s, the bridge and the railway embankment became a favourite route for pedestrians and cyclists. 31

32 DZIRNAVU EZERIˆÍ såkotnéji bijusi da a no viduslaiku Valmieras aizsardzîbas sistémas, ko veidoja Råtsupîtes dambji un slüωas, ar kuru palîdzîbu tika uzstådinåts üdens, karadarbîbai tuvojoties pilsétai. 19. gadsimtå tas, tåpat kå Råtsupîte, noß îra pilsétu no Valmiermui- Ωas zemes. Dzirnavu ezeriñß atrodas pilsétas viduslaiku nocietinåjuma Zilå bastiona pakåjé. Ëdensdzirnavas iepretî tagadéjai Valmieras Dråmas teåtra ékai darbojås jau kopß 17. gadsimta, bet to éku nojauca gadå. ELKU SALIˆA ir pirmskristietîbas laika kulta vieta, kur, péc noståstiem, senatné bijusi svétbirzs vai, péc citas versijas tur kådreiz audzis svétozols un atradußies Dievu Pérkona, Potrimpa un Pîkola téli gada izrakumos tajå tika atsegtas trîs pavardu pédas. Netålu no tås tecéja Svétavots, kam piemitußas dziednieciskas spéjas. THE MILLPOND originally formed part of the defences of Valmiera, which incorporated dams and sluice gates on the Råtsupîte stream, used to raise the water level if there was a threat of attack. In the 19th century, along with the Råtsupîte, the pond served to divide the town from the land of Valmiera Manor. The Millpond lies at the foot of a medieval defensive structure the Blue Bastion. The watermill, which was opposite the present Valmiera Theatre building, existed right from the 17th century, and was demolished in IDOL ISLAND is pre-christian sacred site. According to legend, there was once a holy grove here or a holy oak with images of the Gods Pérkons, Potrimps and Pîkols. In the course of archaeological excavation in 1979, the remains of three hearths were found. No far from this place is the Holy Spring, credited with healing powers. 32