H&M DISCHARGE DATA REPORT

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1 H&M DISCHARGE DATA REPORT February 2014 Page 0 of 20

2 Table of Contents I. Introduction... 2 II. Objectives... 3 III. Methodology... 3 IV. Results and Discussion Hazardous chemicals detected in incoming and discharged water samples Comparison of the quantity of detected chemicals in discharge waste water with local legislation Disclosure of discharge data to Institute of Public and Environmental Affairs (IPE) platform IV. Conclusion and action plan...10 V. References...11 Appendix A: List of Analytes...12 Appendix B: Standard procedure for environmental sampling...16 Appendix C: Number of factories that the restricted analytes detected in water samples...17 Appendix D: Highest detected concentration of analytes in incoming water in different countries...18 Appendix E: Possible sources of detected chemicals in manufacturing processes Contact Details:...20 Page 1 of 20

3 I. Introduction H&M is highly concerned about protection of environment and health. In 2011, H&M, together with several Apparels and Footwear brands, formed the Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals (ZDHC) group, which aims to lead industry to achieve zero-discharge of hazardous chemicals during manufacturing by In 2012, H&M performed the Benchmark study, which provided a snapshot on the situation of hazardous chemicals discharge in manufacturing. In the study, discharged wastewater and incoming water of 11 factories in three countries, China, India, and Bangladesh, were tested for 93 analytes corresponding to 11 hazardous chemical groups. Among these hazardous chemical groups, five chemical groups were detected in discharged wastewater. However, most detected chemical groups in discharge wastewater were also detected in incoming water, indicating that the chemicals found in discharged wastewater were mainly originated from environmental background instead of manufacturing. These results reflected the restrictive chemical control in supply chain of H&M, but at the same time revealed that the presence of hazardous chemicals in environmental background imposes significant challenge in complete elimination of hazardous chemicals in discharged wastewater. After the benchmark study, H&M has increased the restriction in chemical discharge by expanding the Manufacturing Restricted List (MRSL) 1 from 17 to 139 chemical substances. Besides, H&M is working closely with stakeholders to drive towards the goal of zero-discharge. In 2013, H&M continues to pay significant effort to achieve complete elimination of hazardous chemicals in supply chain. Following the benchmark study in last year, H&M carried out a further comprehensive study to investigate the discharge of hazardous chemicals during manufacturing. This study was of an expanded scale, in which discharged wastewater and incoming water of 34 factories in five production countries, China, Cambodia, Bangladesh, India and Indonesia, were tested for 121 analytes 2 corresponding to the 11 hazardous chemical groups. In addition, H&M understands the responsibility and importance in increasing the transparency of hazardous chemicals discharge to public. The discharge data collected in this study was disclosed in a public online platform, the Institute of Public and Environmental Affairs (IPE) ( In this report, the results for the study of hazardous chemicals discharge are presented and action plans to drive towards the goal of zero-discharge are discussed. Besides, the workflow for disclosure of data to the IPE platform is introduced. 1 H&M Manufacturing Restricted List (MRSL) strictions%20may%202013_final%20w%20front.pdf 2 The list of analytes are shown in Appendix A. Page 2 of 20

4 II. Objectives To conduct a further comprehensive study on discharge of hazardous chemicals in manufacturing and develop action plans to drive towards zero-discharge. III. Methodology The study was conducted on 34 factories from five major production countries, (i) China (10 units), (ii) Cambodia (3 units), (iii) Bangladesh (17 units), (iv) India (2 units) and (v) Indonesia (2 units). (Figure1) Chemical tests were performed by Bureau Veritas Consumer Product Service Ltd (BVCPs). The collection of environmental samples was carried out according to international standards as listed in Appendix B. Particularly, the environmental samples were collected in the period between pm, during which the factories operated under normal load. The collected samples were sent to local testing laboratories of BVCPs for chemical tests. Figure 1. Number of factories in different countries included in the present study Page 3 of 20

5 IV. Results and Discussion 4.1 Hazardous chemicals detected in incoming and discharged water samples Number of hazardous chemical detected in discharged wastewater and incoming water The discharged wastewater and incoming water of factories were tested for a total of 121 hazardous chemical analytes 1. Among these hazardous chemicals, 33 (27.3%) chemicals were detected in discharged wastewater and 20 out of the 33 detected chemicals were also detected in incoming water (Figure 2). These data indicated that incoming water was one of major source contributing to the hazardous chemicals detected in discharged wastewater. 33 (27%) 20 (16%) No. of anayltes detected in waste water No. of anayltes not -detected in waste water 88 (73%) No. of anayltes detected in incoming water Figure 2. Numbers of detected and non-detected analytes in water samples *The detected analytes is shown in Appendix C Chemical groups detected in discharged wastewater and incoming water Chlorophenols, Flame Retardants and Perfluorinated compounds were not detected in both wastewater and incoming water samples (Table 1). The 33 hazardous chemicals detected in discharged wastewater belong to 8 chemical groups, 1) APEO, 2) Azo Dyes, 3) Chlorinated Page 4 of 20

6 solvents, 4) Chlorobenzenes, 5) Organotin, 6) Phthalates, 7) Short Chain Chlorinated Paraffins (SCCPs) and 8) Heavy metals. Among the eight chemical groups detected, five of which, APEO, Chlorobenzenes, Chlorinated solvents, Heavy metals and Phthalates, were also detected in incoming water samples (Table 1). However, Azo dyes, SCCPs and Organotin were not detected in incoming water, indicating that these three chemical groups could be originated from manufacturing processes. As shown in figure 3, Chlorobenzenes, Heavy metals and Phthalates were three major chemical groups detected in discharged wastewater. *Common sources of various hazardous chemicals in manufacturing are shown in Appendix E. Table 1. List of detected and non-detected chemical groups in incoming and discharged waste water samples. Restricted Chemical Groups Incoming Water Discharged Waste Water 1. Alkylphenols (APs)& Alkylphenol Ethoxylates (APEOs) 2. Aromatic Amines in Azo Dyes x 3. Brominated and Chlorinated Flame Retardants x x 4. Chlorinated solvents 5. Chlorobenzenes 6. Chlorophenols x x 7. Organotin x 8. Perfluorinated Compounds (PFCs) x x 9. Phthalates 10. Short Chain Chlorinated Paraffins (SCCPs) x 11. Total heavy metal, except Chromium VI (Cr VI) Remarks: : Chemical analytes detected in water samples X: Chemical analytes not detected in water samples Page 5 of 20

7 35 No. of factories Incoming water Waste water APEO Azo Chlorinate Chloroben Heavy Organotin Phthalate SCCPs d Solvents zenes metals s Incoming water Waste water Figure3. Number of factories with restricted chemicals detected in water samples Hazardous chemical groups detected in factories from different countries The discharge of hazardous chemical groups in factories from different countries is depicted in Table 2. In China and Indonesia, most chemical groups detected in discharged wastewater were also detected in significant quantity in incoming water 3, indicating that most hazardous chemicals detected in discharge wastewater could be originated from incoming water and the environmental water source in these two countries was more polluted. In Bangladesh and Cambodia, most detected chemical groups in discharged wastewater were not from incoming water 3, therefore 3 The highest concentration of detected analytes in incoming water listed in Appendix D. Page 6 of 20

8 generation of hazardous chemicals during manufacturing in these two countries needs particular concerns. Among the hazardous chemicals tested, Chlorobenzenes and Heavy metals were detected in all the five countries, showing the wide distribution of these two chemical groups in manufacturing and environment and the challenge in elimination of these two chemical groups. Table 2. Restricted chemical groups detected in different countries Countries Chemical Groups Bangladesh China Cambodia India Indonesia 1. Azo dyes 2. APs & APEOs 3. Chlorinated Solvents 4. Heavy metals (except Cr VI) 5. Chlorobenzenes 6. Organotin 7. Phthalates 8. SCCPs Chemicals were detected in incoming water samples only Chemicals were detected in discharged waste water samples only Chemicals were not detected in both incoming and discharged waste water samples Chemicals were detected in both incoming and discharged waste water samples Page 7 of 20

9 4.2 Comparison of the quantity of detected chemicals in discharge waste water with local legislation In this part, the quantity of detected chemicals in discharged wastewater is compared with the local legislation limits of waste water in the five countries involved, which indicate the impacts of hazardous chemicals to environment and health. Legislation limits for three chemical groups, including 1) Chlorinated solvents, 2) Chlorobenzenes and 3) Heavy metals, were compared here as only the legislation limits of these chemicals groups were available (Table 3). Different countries have different restriction level for these hazardous chemicals in wastewater. In Indonesia, only and Chromium (Cr) is restricted, while in Bangladesh, Cambodia, and India, more chemicals are restricted (Table 3). The highest detected concentration of each analytes in this study was applied for the comparison with local wastewater discharged legislation limits. As shown in Table 3, the concentrations of all hazardous chemicals detected in this study were lower than the corresponding legislation limits, therefore fulfilled the relevant country legislations that listed in reference section. Page 8 of 20

10 Table 3. Comparison of the highest detected concentration of analytes in discharged waste water with corresponding local legislation Chemicals Arsenic, As Cadmium, Cd Bangladesh China Cambodia India Indonesia Limit Detected Limit Detected Limit Detected Limit Detected Limit Detected NA NA NA 0 NA NA NA Cyanide, CN Chromium, Cr Chromium VI Copper, Cu Mercury, Hg Manganese, Mn Nickel, Ni Lead, Pb Antimony, Sb Zinc, Zn Trichlorobenze ne (sum) Hexachlorobenzene 1,2 Dichloroethylene Trichloroethylene Chloroform NA NA * NA NA NA 2.68 NA NA NA NA NA 0.03 NA NA NA NA NA NA 0.14 NA NA NA 0 NA NA 0 NA NA 0 NA 0 NA 0 NA NA 0 NA 0 NA 0 NA NA 0 NA 0 NA 1.01 NA NA 0 NA 0 *This is the second highest data among China units. The highest data was obtained from wastewater collected for further processing, but not directly discharged to environment. Thus, this data is not use for comparison. Units: parts per million (ppm) Page 9 of 20

11 4.3 Disclosure of discharge data to Institute of Public and Environmental Affairs (IPE) platform Each factory unit was required to fill in the chemical test data into a data form issued by IPE. The filled data form was sent to BVCPs for cross-check and finally uploaded to the IPE platform by factories. All discharged results of 34 production units are now available in IPE platform: The uploaded data is freely accessible by public. IV. Conclusion and action plan This study provided a comprehensive picture on discharge of hazardous chemicals in manufacturing of H&M. Among the 11 chemical groups (121 chemical analytes) tested, 8 chemical groups (33 chemical analytes) were found in discharged wastewater. In coherent with the benchmark study performed in last year, many chemicals detected in discharged wastewater could be originated from incoming water. However, some chemical groups, including Azo dyes, Organotin, and SCCPs, were only detected in discharged wastewater but not in incoming water, indicating that these chemicals groups could be produced from manufacturing. And, the quantities of all detected hazardous chemicals in these units were lower than the legislation limits of the corresponding countries. H&M will continue to pay every effort in elimination of hazardous chemicals from supply chain. In order to prevent the use of hazardous chemicals during manufacturing, we will work closely with our suppliers to work out good chemical management systems and keep close monitoring on the implementation of the systems. We will keep updating our MRSL to increase the comprehensiveness of the zero-discharge scheme. We will further enhance the transparency of hazardous chemical discharge to public by encouraging more factories to disclose their chemical discharge data. Page 10 of 20

12 V. References 1. The Environment Conservation Rules, Official Journal of the European Union, Directive 2008/105/EC of the European Parliament and of the Council 3. Discharge standard of water pollutants for dyeing and finishing of textile industry, GB Integrated wastewater discharge standard GB The Environment (Protection) Rules, 1986 Page 11 of 20

13 Appendix A: List of Analytes No. Chemical Groups Name of Analytes CAS-No. 1 Butyl benzyl phthalate (BBP) Dibutyl phthalate (DBP) Di-2-ethylhexyl phthalate (DEHP) Di-n-octyl phthalate (DNOP) Di-iso-nonyl phthalate (DINP) & Di-iso-decyl phthalate (DIDP) & Phthalates Dimethyl phthalate (DMP) Diethyl phthalate (DEP) Di-n-propyl phthalate (DPRP) Di-iso-butyl phthalate (DIBP) Di-cyclohexyl phthalate (DCHP) Di-n-hexyl phthalate (DnHP) Dinonyl phthalate (DNP) Di-iso-octyl phthalate (DIOP) Dimethoxyethyl phthalate (DMEP) Polybromobiphenyls (PBBs) Various 17 Tris(2,3-dibromopropyl) phosphate (TRIS) Polybromodiphenyl ethers (PBDEs) Various Brominated Flame 19 Tetrabromobisphenol A (TBBPA) Retardants 20 Bis(2,3-dibromopropyl) phosphate Hexabromocyclododecane (HBCDD) ,2-Bis(bromomethyl)-1,3-propanediol (BBMP) Chlorinated Flame Tris(2-chloroethyl) phosphate (TCEP) Retardants Tris(1,3-dichloro-isopropyl) phosphate (TDCP) Aminodiphenyl (Biphenyl-4-ylamine or Xenylamine) Benzidine Chloro-o-toluidine Naphthylamine Aromatic Amines in Azo 29 Colorants o-aminoazotoluene (4-Amino-2`, dimethylazobenzne or 4-o-tolyazo-o-toluidine) 30 5-nitro-o-toluidine (2-Amino-4-nitrotoluene) Chloroaniline (p-chloroaniline) Methoxy-m-phenylenediamine (2,4- Diaminoanisole) Page 12 of 20

14 No. Chemical Groups Name of Analytes CAS-No ,4`-Diaminodiphenylmethane (4,4`- Methylenedianiline) 3,3`-Dichlorobenzidine (3,3`-Dichlorobiphenyl- 4,4`-ylenediamine) ,3`-Dimethoxybenzidine (o-dianisidine) ,3`-Dimethylbenzidine (4,4`-Bi-o-tolidine) ,4`-Methylenedi-o-toluidine (3,3`-Dimethyl- 4,4`diaminodiphenylmethane) p-cresidine (6-Methoxy-m-toluidine) ,4`-Methylene-bis-(2-chloraniline) (2,2` Dichloro-4,4`-methylene-dianiline) Aromatic Amines in Azo 40 Colorants 4,4`-Oxydianiline ,4`-Thiodianiline o-toluidine (2-Aminotoluene) Methyl-m-phenylenediamine (2,4- Toluenediamine) ,4,5-Trimethylaniline o-anisidine (2-Methoxyaniline) Aminoazobenzene (p-aminoazobenzene) ,4-Xylidine (2,4-dimethylaniline) ,6-Xylidine (2,6-dimethylaniline) Aniline Monobutyltin (MBT) 51 Dibutyltin (DBT) 52 Dioctyltin (DOT) 53 Tributyltin (TBT) Organotin Compounds 54 Triphenyltin (TPhT) 55 Tricyclohexyltin (TCyHT) 56 Trioctyltin (TOT) 57 Tripropyltin (TPT) 58 Various Chlorobenzene ,2-Dichlorobenzene ,3-Dichlorobenzene, 1,4-Dichlorobenzene , ,2,3-Trichlorobenzene ,2,4-Trichlorobenzene Chlorobenzenes 63 1,3,5-Trichlorobenzene ,2,3,4-Tetrachlorobenzene ,2,3,5-Tetrachlorobenzene, 1,2,4,5- Tetrachlorobenzene , Pentachlorobenzene Hexachlorobenzene Page 13 of 20

15 No. Chemical Groups Name of Analytes CAS-No. 68 1,2-Dichloroethane ,1-Dichloroethylene Methylene Chloride cis-1,2-dichloroethylene trans-1,2-dichloroethylene Chloroform Chlorinated Solvents 74 1,1,1-Trichloroethane Carbon Tetrachloride Trichloroethylene ,1,2-Trichloroethane ,1,1,2-Tetrachloroethane Tetrachloroethylene Pentachlorophenol ,3,4,5-Tetrachlorophenol ,3,4,6-Tetrachlorophenol ,3,5,6-Tetrachlorophenol ,4,6-Trichlorophenol ,3,5-Trichlorophenol ,4,5-Trichlorophenol ,4,5-Trichlorophenol ,3,4-Trichlorophenol Chlorophenols 89 2,3-Dichlorophenol ,4-Dichlorophenol ,4-Dichlorophenol , 92 2,5-Dichlorophenol , 93 2,6-Dichlorophenol , 94 3,5-Dichlorophenol Chlorophenol Chlorophenol Chlorophenol Short Chain Chlorinated Paraffins Short Chain Chlorinated Paraffins Page 14 of 20

16 No. Chemical Groups Name of Analytes CAS-No Arsenic (As) Cadmium (Cd) 101 Mercury (Hg) 102 Lead (Pb) 103 Antimony (Sb) 104 Cobalt (Co) 105 Heavy Metals Nickel (Ni) Various 106 Copper (Cu) 107 Zinc (Zn) 108 Chromium (Cr) 109 Manganese (Mn) 110 Chromium VI (Cr VI) 111 Cyanide (CN) 112 Octylphenol (OP) 113 Alkylphenols & Octylphenolethoxylates (OPEOs) 114 Alkylphenol Ethoxylates Nonylphenol (NP) Various 115 Nonylphenolethoxylates (NPEOs) 116 Perfluorooctanoic acid (PFOA) Perfluorooctane sulphonates (PFOS) Perfluoro-n-hexanoic acid (PFHxA) Perfluorinated Chemicals 119 Perfluorohexane sulphonates (PFHxS) Perfluorobutanoic acid (PFBA) Perfluorobutane sulphonates (PFBS) Page 15 of 20

17 Appendix B: Standard procedure for environmental sampling 1) US EPA Guidelines Regulatory monitoring and testing Water and wastewater sampling 2) Australia EPA (Victoria) Guideline Sampling and Analysis of Waters, Wastewaters, Soils and Wastes. 3) ISO , Water Quality Sampling Part 3: Guidance on the preservation and handling of water samples 4) ASTM D (Reapproved 2010) Standard Practice for preparation of Sediment Samples for Chemical Analysis. Page 16 of 20

18 Appendix C: Number of factories that the restricted analytes detected in water samples Page 17 of 20

19 Appendix D: Highest detected concentration of analytes in incoming water in different countries Analytes Bangladesh China Cambodia India Indonesia Butyl benzyl phthalate ND ND ND ND (BBP) Dibutyl phthalate ND ND ND ND (DBP) Di-2-ethylhexyl phthalate ND ND ND (DEHP) Di-iso-butyl phthalate ND ND ND (DIBP) Chlorobenzene ND ND ND ND 1,2,4-Trichlorobenzene ND ND ND ND Methylene Chloride ND ND ND ND Total Arsenic (As) Total Cadmium (Cd) Total Mercury (Hg) Total Lead (Pb) Total Antimony (Sb) Total Cobalt (Co) Total Nickel (Ni) Total Copper (Cu) Total Zinc (Zn) Total Chromium (Cr) Total Manganese (Mn) Nonylphenol (NP) Nonylphenolethoxylates (NPEOs) ND ND ND ND ND ND ND ND ND ND ND ND ND ND ND ND ND ND Remarks: ND: Not detected Units: parts per million (ppm) Page 18 of 20

20 Appendix E: Possible sources of detected chemicals in manufacturing processes. 4 Detected chemicals in Possible sources discharged waste water Azo Dyes 1) Used as colorants in dyes and pigments, such as Acid Dyes, Basic Dyes, Pigments, Reactive Dyes, Direct Dyes & Disperse Dyes. 2) Act as polyurethane based cross linker/emulsions (2,4- toulenediamine /4-methyl-m-phenylenediamine). Heavy Metals 1) Present in metals or alloys, such as metal pipings in factory for transporting raw water. 2) Present in metal complex dyestuffs, Fluro pigments, paints, & dyefixing agents. 3) The chemicals used in analysis for in house chemical tests, i.e., titrations (Mercuric sulphate / chloride, Potassium Dichromate) 4) Impurities from metal salts used in Effluent Treatment Plant (ETP) and other activities Alkylphenols (APs) & Alkylphenol Ethoxylates (APEOs) 1) Used in manufacturing of detergents, example soaping of dyed/ printed fabrics. 2) Used as emulsifying agent in pigment preparations and colorant preparations Chlorobenzenes 1) Used as solvent in dye industry, disinfectant, household toilet and floor cleaners. Chlorinated Solvents 1) Used in scouring 2) As Carriers for Disperse Dyeing 3) Removal of oil in machine / garments 4 The possible sources of each detected chemical groups listed in table are not claimed to be complete. Page 19 of 20

21 Organotin Compounds 1) Mainly used as antifouling agents in liquid pigments or as a fungicide. Phthalates 1) Generally used as softener for plastics (plasticizers). 2) Present in print paste, plastisol ink, table gums for positional printing. 3) Present in adhesives Short Chain Chlorinated Paraffins (SCCPs) 1) Commonly present in oil based chemicals, e.g spinning /knitting oil, de-dusting oils, or other types of industrial oils. 2) Present in spot removers, degreasing chemicals for printing mesh cleaning / machinery, printing chemicals, & table gums. Contact Detail: H&M Hennes & Mauritz AB: Anna Eriksson Page 20 of 20

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