Introduction. Historical Context: Time and Place. Contents. This document provides an extremely brief overview of male fashions in Spain c

Transcription

1 Introduction This document provides an extremely brief overview of male fashions in Spain c Historical Context: Time and Place Hispano-Flemish is a term most properly applied to the style of art prevalent in Spain in the roughly fifty years overlapping the end of the 15 th century and beginning of the 16 th century. Another popular art history term is Isabelline, in reference to Isabella of Castile, although the time period in question stretches beyond her death and into the reigns of her daughter Juana (called La Loca ) and grandson Carlos I (Charles V, Holy Roman Emperor). The time period, like the style, is heavily influenced by Spanish involvement in Flanders and the Low Countries. Contents Garment Layers 2 Clothing Terms and Descriptions 2 Colors, Fabrics, and Embellishments...4 Bibliography..5 Images attached 1

2 Garment Layers: Men s Clothes from the Skin Out Layer Undergarments Shirt Hosen Doublet Jerkin Outer garment Head coverings Garment names Camisa Calzas, calzas bragas Jubón, paletoque Saya Ropa Gorra, media gorra, bonete Clothing Terms and Descriptions Undergarments Camisa o Full body o Wide sleeves o Necklines high or low, square, round, boat o Materials - fine Holland or cambrey linen o Usually decorated with bands (tiras) of embroidery, fabric, or ribbons. (Anderson ) Hosen o Calzas Full length Footed sometimes reinforced with leather sole Joined at waist Tightly fitted (male ideal = calzas that fit without a wrinkle) o Calzas bragas (breech-hose) c separate breeches and hosen eventually referred just to the breeches 1516 inventory of Charles V: breeches without hose with lacing holes to attach calzas Doublet Jubón o Tightly fitted shoulder to waist o Tied to hosen with points at waist o Buttoned or laced down front o Often padded, quilted, or skirted o Necklines 2

3 Early: High at back, curved to meeting edges Later: low round neckline Paletoque (paltock) o Over or instead of jubón o Close-fitting o Sleeveless o Neckline wide, open, deep V o Laced to hosen o Stomacher under lacings Jerkin (saya) Knee length Fitted through torso Sleeves narrow & tight or full Pleated (box or padded cartridge) or gored skirts Worn over the doublet Ropa (outer garment) Warmth layer Knee to ankle length Unfitted Loose from shoulder to hem Simple sleeves with arm slits, or gathered bag sleeves Heavily lined or faced with fabric or fur Headwear Media gorra o Half cap o Tall crown o Partial brim/flap Gorra o cap o Tall crown o Full brim o Brim often divided into sections slitted, crenellated, upturned 3

4 Bonete o Softer shape o Shaped crown o Wide brim o May have chin strap or cord Colors, Fabrics, and Embellishments Colors: crimson, black, tawny, mulberry, green, white, rose, yellow, blue o Most hats were crimson or black, but wardrobe accounts mention green, wine dregs, mulberry, tawny Fabrics o Silks satin, cebti o Velvets o Fine wools o Brocades silk, cloth of silver/gold, drawn wire Linings velvet, lambswool, ermine, fine wools, sable, marten, cat (not domestic), linen (for items closer to the body) Embellishments o Trims metal cording, metal netting o Embroidery fantasy beasts, flowers, fruits, vines, heraldic animals, personal mottoes o Hammered metal pieces letters, animals, heraldic beasts, pomegranates, wheat sheaves, chain links, door knockers, human figures 4

5 Bibliography Anderson, Ruth M. Hispanic Costume New York: Hispanic Society of America, Bernis, Carmen. Indumentaria Medieval España. Madrid: Instituto Diego Velasquez, Trajes y Modas en la España de los Reyes Católicos. Madrid: Instituto Diego Velasquez, Ferrandis, Jose. Datos Documentales para la Historia del Arte Español: Inventarios Reales (Juan II a Juana la Loca). Madrid: Instituto Diego Velásquez, Newton, Kate. An Assortment of Spanish Hats for Men Knitting the Spanish Boneto Men s Fashion in Spain, History Unstitched