Humane Society of the Black Hills

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1 Humane Society of the Black Hills Cat Behavior Pamphlet Table of Contents Understanding Your Kitten s Behavior and Development Managing Your Kitten s Rough Play Introducing Your New Cat to Your Other Pets Introducing Your New Cat to the Litter Box Solving Litter Box Problems Using Aversives to Modify Your Cat s Behavior Positive Reinforcement Training Your Cat Cat Toys and How to Use Them Understanding Your Talkative Cat Solving Aggression Between Family Cats Reducing Your Cat s Fearful Behavior Discouraging Free-Roaming Cats Cats: Destructive Scratching Cat Aggression Toward People Your Pregnancy and Your Cat Humane Society of the Black Hills 1820 East Saint Patrick Street, Rapid City, SD 57703

2 BEHAVIOR SERIES Understanding Your Kitten s Behavior and Development THE APPLE DOESN T FALL FAR FROM THE TREE, especially for cats. The fact is, well-socialized cats are more likely to have well-socialized kittens. Kittens often mirror their mothers calm or fearful attitudes toward people; this is a normal part of their socialization. But you can play a vital role, too, by petting, talking, and playing with kitty to help her develop good people skills. Kittens are usually weaned at six to seven weeks, but may continue to suckle for comfort as their mother gradually leaves them for longer periods of time. Orphaned kittens, or those weaned too soon, are more likely to exhibit inappropriate suckling behaviors later in life, such as sucking on blankets, pillows, or your arm. Ideally, kittens should stay with their littermates (or other role-model cats) for at least 12 weeks. Kittens orphaned or separated from their mothers or littermates too early often fail to develop appropriate social skills, such as learning how to send and receive signals, what an inhibited bite (acceptable mouthing pressure) means, how far to go in play-wrestling, and so forth. Play is important for kittens because it increases their physical coordination and social skills and helps in learning limits. By interacting with their mothers and littermates, kittens explore the ranking process ( who s in charge ) and also learn how to be a cat. Kittens who are gently handled by people minutes a day during the first seven weeks are more likely to develop larger brains. They re more exploratory, more playful, and better learners. Skills not acquired during the first eight weeks may be lost forever. While these stages are important and fairly consistent, a cat s mind remains receptive to new experiences and lessons well beyond kittenhood. Most cats are still kittens, in mind and body, through the first two years of life. Stages of Kitten Development: 0 2 Weeks: Neonatal Period Kitten learns to orient toward sound. Eyes begin opening; they are usually open by two weeks of age. Competition for rank and territory begins. Separation from mother and littermates at this point can lead to poor learning skills and aggression toward people and other pets. 2 7 Weeks: Socialization Period By the third week, sense of smell is well-developed and kitten can see well enough to find her mother. By the fourth week, sense of smell is fully mature and sense of hearing is well-developed. Kitten starts to interact with littermates and can walk fairly well. Teeth start to come in. continued on reverse side For complete tips and advice on pet behavior and other pet care topics, visit

3 By the fifth week, eyesight is fully mature, and kitten can right herself, run, place her feet precisely, avoid obstacles, stalk and pounce, and catch prey with her eyes. Kitten starts to groom herself and others. By the sixth and seventh weeks, kitten begins to develop adult sleeping patterns, motor skills, and social interaction abilities Weeks: Most Active Play Period Social and object play increases kitten s physical coordination and social skills. Most learning is by observation, preferably of kitten s mother. Social play includes belly-ups, hugging, ambushing, and licking. Object play includes scooping, tossing, pawing, mouthing, and holding. Combined social/object play includes tail chasing, pouncing, leaping, and dancing. 3 6 Months: Ranking Period Kitten is most influenced by her litter, which may now include playmates of other species. Kitten begins to see and use ranking (dominance or submission) within household, including humans Months: Adolescence Kitten increases exploration of dominance, including challenging humans. If not spayed or neutered, kitten experiences beginnings of sexual behavior. (Spaying or neutering your kitten at an early age will increase the health benefits of the surgery and increase her lifespan.) Adapted from material originally developed by applied animal behaviorists at the Dumb Friends League, Denver, Colorado Dumb Friends League and 2003 The HSUS. All rights reserved. This information provided for you by Promoting the Protection of All Animals

4 Managing Your BEHAVIOR SERIES Kitten s Rough Play IF PLAYING WITH YOUR KITTEN evolves from peek-a-boo to professional wrestling in a matter of seconds, follow these tips to keep playtime interesting and reduce the number of trips to the first-aid kit. Cats incorporate a variety of behaviors into their play, such as exploratory, investigative, and predatory behaviors skills they would normally need for survival. As you ve probably already learned, kittens like to explore new areas and investigate anything that moves, and may bat at, pounce on, and bite objects that resemble prey. It s not always easy for cats to draw the line between acceptable play and overly aggressive behavior, so play-motivated, aggressive behaviors are common in young, active cats less than two years of age and in cats who live in one-cat households. Kittens learn how to inhibit their bite from their littermates and their mother. A kitten who is separated from her family too early may play more roughly than a kitten who has had more valuable family time. In addition, if humans play with a young kitten using their hands or feet instead of toys, the kitten is liable to learn that rough play with people is okay. In most cases, it s not too difficult to teach your kitten or young adult cat that rough play isn t acceptable. Here are some tips. Encourage Acceptable Behavior Redirect your kitten s aggressive behavior onto acceptable objects like toys. Drag a toy along the floor to encourage your kitten to pounce on it, or throw a toy away from your kitten to give her even more exercise chasing the toy down. Some kittens will even bring the toy back to be thrown again. You can also try toys that your kitten can wrestle with, like a soft stuffed animal that s about her size, so she can grab it with both front feet, bite it, and kick it with her back feet. This is one of the ways kittens play with each other, especially when they re young. It s also one of the ways they try to play with human feet and hands, so it s important to provide this type of alternative play target. Encourage play with a wrestling toy by rubbing it against your kitten s belly when she wants to play roughly and be sure to get your hand out of the way as soon as she accepts the toy. Since kittens need a lot of playtime, try to set up three or four consistent times during the day to initiate play with your kitten. This will help her understand that she doesn t have to be the one to initiate play by pouncing on you. Discourage Unacceptable Behavior You need to set the rules for your kitten s behavior, and every person your cat comes in contact with should reinforce these rules. Your kitten can t be expected to learn that it s okay to play rough with Dad, but not with the baby. Use aversives to discourage your kitten from nipping. You can either use a squirt bottle filled with water and a small amount of vinegar, or a can of pressurized air to squirt your kitten when she starts getting too rough. To use this technique effectively, you ll need to have the spray bottle or can handy at all times it s absolutely essential to use the aversive while the rough behavior is occurring. So continued on reverse side For complete tips and advice on pet behavior and other pet care topics, visit

5 either place a spray bottle in each room, or carry one with you as you move around the house. In some cases, you may want to apply taste aversives to your hands. If you have sensitive skin, you can wear gloves and put the aversive on the gloves. The possible disadvantage to this method is that your kitten may learn that hands with gloves taste bad and those without gloves don t. Remember that aversives will work only if you offer your kitten acceptable alternatives. Redirect the behavior after using the aversive. After you startle your kitten with the aversive, immediately offer her a toy to wrestle with or chase. This will encourage her to direct her rough play onto a toy instead of a person. We recommend keeping a stash of toys hidden in each room specifically for this purpose. Withdraw attention when your kitten starts to play too roughly. If the distraction and redirection techniques don t seem to be working, the most drastic thing you can do to discourage your cat from rough play is to withdraw all attention. She wants to play with you, so if you keep this limit consistent, she ll eventually figure out how far she can go. The best way to withdraw your attention is to walk to another room and close the door long enough for her to calm down. If you pick her up to put her in another room, then you re rewarding her by touching her, so you should always be the one to leave the room. Please Note: None of these methods will be very effective unless you also give your kitten acceptable outlets for her energy by playing with her regularly using appropriate toys. What NOT to Do Attempts to tap, flick, or hit your kitten for rough play are almost guaranteed to backfire. Your kitten could become afraid of your hands, or she could interpret those flicks as playful moves by you and play even more roughly as a result. Picking up your kitten to put her into a timeout may reinforce her behavior because she probably enjoys the physical contact of being picked up. By the time you get her to the timeout room and close the door, she may have already forgotten what she did to be put in that situation. A Note about Aggression: Don t encourage your playful kitten to bite or scratch any parts of your body. Instead, provide appropriate toys for her to bite and scratch. If she continues to bite or scratch you, call your veterinarian, animal shelter, or an animal-behavior specialist for humane suggestions on how to redirect her behavior to appropriate objects. Also, be sure to thoroughly clean all bites and scratches and apply an antibiotic ointment. If you receive a bad bite, you should seek medical attention immediately. Adapted from material originally developed by applied animal behaviorists at the Dumb Friends League, Denver, Colorado Dumb Friends League and 2003 The HSUS. All rights reserved. Related topics at Using Aversives to Modify Your Cat s Behavior This information provided for you by Promoting the Protection of All Animals

6 Introducing Your New BEHAVIOR SERIES Cat to Your Other Pets WOULDN T IT BE NICE if all it took to introduce a new cat to your resident pet were a brief handshake and a couple of HELLO, My Name Is... name-tags? Unfortunately, it s not quite that simple, which means you ll need to have some realistic expectations from the outset. What are realistic expectations? First, it s recognizing and accepting that your pets may never be best buddies but will usually come to at least tolerate each other. Second, it s understanding the need to move slowly during the introduction process to increase your chances for success. Some cats are more social than other cats. For example, an eight-year-old cat who has never been around other animals may never learn to share her territory (and her people) with other pets in the household. But an eight-week-old kitten separated from her mom and littermates for the first time might be glad to have a cat or dog companion. Cats are territorial, and they need to be introduced to other animals very slowly so they can get used to each other before a face-to-face confrontation. Slow introductions help prevent fearful and aggressive problems from developing. Here are guidelines to help make the introductions go smoothly. Confinement Confine your new cat to one medium-sized room with her litter box, food, water, and a bed. Feed your resident pets and the newcomer on each side of the door to this room, so that they associate something enjoyable (eating!) with each other s smells. Gradually move the dishes closer to the door until your pets can eat calmly while standing directly on either side of the door. The Old Switcheroo Swap the sleeping blankets or beds used by all the cats so they each have a chance to become accustomed to the other cats scents. You can even rub a towel on one animal and put it underneath the food dish of another animal. Once your new cat is using her litter box and eating regularly while confined, let her have free time in the house while confining your other animals to the new cat s room. This switch provides another way for the animals to experience each other s scents without a face-to-face meeting. It also allows the newcomer to become familiar with her new surroundings without being frightened by the other animals. Next, after the animals have been returned to their original designated parts of the house, use two doorstops to prop open the dividing door just enough to allow the animals to see each other, and repeat the whole process over a period of days supervised, of course. Slow and Steady Wins the Race It s better to introduce your pets to each other gradually so that neither animal becomes afraid or aggressive. You can expect a mild protest from either cat from time to time, but don t allow these behaviors to intensify. If either animal becomes fearful or aggressive, separate them, and start the introduction process once again with a series of very small, gradual steps, as outlined above. Note: When you introduce pets to each other, one of them may send play signals which can be misinterpreted by the other pet as signs of aggression. If that s the case, always handle the situation as aggression and seek professional help from a veterinarian or animal behaviorist right away. continued on reverse side For complete tips and advice on pet behavior and other pet care topics, visit

7 Precautionary Measures Try to keep your resident pets schedules close to what they were before the newcomer s arrival. Before bringing a new pet home, check with your veterinarian to be sure all your current pets are healthy. You ll also want to have at least one litter box per cat in separate locations. Make sure that none of the cats are being ambushed by another while trying to use the litter box, and be sure each cat has a safe hiding place. If small spats (hissing, growling, or posturing) do occur between your cats, you shouldn t attempt to intervene directly to separate the cats. Instead, make a loud noise, throw a pillow, or use a squirt bottle with water and vinegar to separate the cats. Give them a chance to calm down before reintroducing them to each other. Cat-to-Dog Introductions You ll need to be even more careful when introducing a dog and a cat to one another. A dog can seriously injure and even kill a cat very easily, even if they re only playing all it takes is one quick shake to break the cat s neck. Some dogs have such a high prey drive that they should never be left alone with a cat. Dogs usually want to chase and play with cats, and cats usually become afraid and defensive. In addition to using the techniques described above to begin introducing your new cat to your resident dog, take these steps: Practice Obedience If your dog doesn t already know the commands sit, down, come, and stay, begin working on them right away. Small pieces of food will increase your dog s motivation to perform, which will be necessary in the presence of a strong distraction such as a new cat. Even if your dog already knows these commands, work to reinforce these commands in return for a tidbit. Set Up Controlled Meetings After your new cat and resident dog have become comfortable eating on opposite sides of the door and have been exposed to each other s scents as described above, you can attempt a face-to-face introduction in a controlled manner. Put your dog s leash on and have him either sit or lie down and stay for treats. Have a second person offer your cat some special pieces of food. At first, the cat and the dog should be on opposite sides of the room. Lots of short visits are better than a few long visits. Don t drag out the visit so long that the dog becomes uncontrollable. Repeat this step several times until both the cat and dog are tolerating each other s presence without fear, aggression, or other undesirable behavior. Let Your Cat Go Next, allow your cat some freedom to explore your dog at her own pace, with the dog still on-leash and in a downstay. Meanwhile, keep giving your dog treats and praise for his calm behavior. If your dog gets up from his stay position, he should be repositioned with a treat lure and praised and rewarded for obeying the stay command. If your cat runs away or becomes aggressive, you re progressing too fast. Go back to the previous introduction steps. Use Positive Reinforcement Although your dog must be taught that chasing or being rough with your cat is unacceptable behavior, he must also be taught what is appropriate and be rewarded for those behaviors, such as sitting, coming when called, or lying down in return for a treat. If your dog is always punished when your cat is around and never has good things happen in the cat s presence, your dog may redirect aggression toward the cat. Directly Supervise All Interactions Between Your Dog and Cat You may want to keep your dog at your side and onleash whenever your cat is free in the house during the introduction process. Be sure that your cat has an escape route and a place to hide. And until you re certain your cat will be safe, be sure to keep the two separated when you aren t home. Kittens and Puppies Because they re so much smaller, kittens are in more danger of being injured or killed by a young energetic dog or by a predatory dog. A kitten will need to be kept separate from an especially energetic dog until she is fully grown, except for periods of supervised interaction to enable the animals to get to know each other. Even after the cat is fully grown, she may not be able to be safely left alone with the dog. Usually, a well-socialized cat will be able to keep a puppy in his place, but some cats don t have enough confidence to do this. If you have an especially shy cat, you might need to keep her separated from your puppy until he matures enough to have more self-control. When to Get Help If introductions don t go smoothly, seek professional advice immediately from a veterinarian or animal-behavior specialist. Animals can be severely injured in fights, and the longer the problem continues, the harder it can be to resolve. Punishment won t work and could make things worse. Luckily, most conflicts between pets in the same family can often be resolved with professional guidance. Adapted from material originally developed by applied animal behaviorists at the Dumb Friends League, Denver, Colorado Dumb Friends League and 2003 The HSUS. All rights reserved. This information provided for you by Promoting the Protection of All Animals

8 Introducing Your New BEHAVIOR SERIES Cat to the Litter Box M OST OF US KNOW CATS are finicky eaters, but they can also be pretty picky when it comes to the other end of the digestive process making use of a litter box. Fortunately, the following suggestions should keep your cat from thinking outside the box. Location, Location, Location Most people are inclined to place the litter box in an out-of-the-way spot to minimize odor and prevent cat litter from being tracked throughout the house. But if the litter box ends up in the basement next to an appliance or on a cold cement floor your cat may be less than pleased for a number of reasons. A kitten or an older cat may not be able to get down a long flight of stairs in time to get to the litter box. If the litter box is located in an area that she seldom frequents, she may not even remember where it is, especially during the first few weeks she s welcomed into your home. If a furnace, washing machine, or dryer suddenly comes on and startles your cat while she s using the litter box, that may be the last time she risks such a frightening experience. And if your cat likes to scratch the surface surrounding her litter box (which some cats do), she may find a cold cement floor unappealing. So you may have to compromise. The litter box should be kept in a spot that affords your cat some privacy yet is also conveniently located. If you place the litter box in a closet or a bathroom, be sure the door is wedged open from both sides to prevent her from being trapped inside or locked out. Depending on the location, you might consider cutting a hole in a closet door and adding a pet door. Pick of the Litter Research has shown that most cats prefer fine-grained litters, presumably because they have a softer feel. The new scoopable (clumping) litters usually have finer grains than the typical clay litter and are very popular. But highquality, dust-free, clay litters are relatively small-grained and may be perfectly acceptable to your cat. If you suspect your cat has spent part of his life outdoors and is likely to eliminate in your houseplants, try mixing some potting soil with your regular litter; pellet-type litters or those made from citrus peels are not recommended. Once you find a litter your cat likes, stick with it. Buying the least expensive litter or the brand that s on sale any given week could result in your cat not using the litter box. Many cats are put off by the odor of scented or deodorant litters. For the same reason, it s not a good idea to place a room deodorizer or air freshener near the litter box. A thin layer of baking soda placed on the bottom of the box will help absorb odors without repelling your cat, and odors shouldn t really be a problem if you keep the litter box clean. If you find the litter box odor offensive, your cat probably finds it even more offensive and won t want to eliminate there. continued on reverse side For complete tips and advice on pet behavior and other pet care topics, visit

9 What s the Magic Number? You should have at least as many litter boxes as you have cats. That way, none of them will ever be prevented from eliminating in the litter box because it s already occupied. You might also consider placing litter boxes in several locations around the house, so that no one cat can prevent the other cats from getting access. We also recommend that you place at least one litter box on each level of your house. It s not possible to designate a personal litter box for each cat in your household, as cats may use any litter box that s available, and that means a cat may occasionally refuse to use a litter box after another cat has used it. In this case, all of the litter boxes will need to be kept extremely clean and additional boxes may be needed. An Undercover Operation? Potential Problems of Covered Litter Boxes Some people prefer to provide their cats with a covered litter box, but doing so may introduce some problems. You may forget to clean the litter box as frequently as you should because the dirty litter is out of sight, out of mind. A covered litter box traps odors inside, so it will need to be cleaned more often than an open one. A dirty, covered litter box is to your cat what a portapotty is to you! A covered litter box may not allow a large cat sufficient room to turn around, scratch, dig, or position herself in the way she wants. A covered litter box may make it easier for another cat to lay in wait and ambush the user as she exits the box; on the other hand, a covered litter box may feel more private, and timid cats may prefer it. To discover which type of litter box your cat prefers, you may want to experiment by offering both types at first. Keeping It Clean To meet the needs of the most discriminating cat, feces should be scooped out of the litter box daily. How often you actually change (replace) the litter depends on the number of cats you have, the number of litter boxes, and the type of litter you use. Twice a week is a general guideline for clay litter, but depending on the circumstances, you may Related topics at Solving Litter Box Problems This information provided for you by need to replace it every other day or only once a week. If you clean the litter box daily, scoopable litter may only need to be changed every two to three weeks. If you notice an odor or if much of the litter is wet or clumped, it s time for a change. Don t use strong smelling chemicals or cleaning products when washing the litter box, as doing so may cause your cat to avoid the box. Some cleaning products are toxic to cats. Washing with soap and water should be sufficient. Liner Notes Some cats don t mind having a plastic liner in the litter box, while others do. Again, you may want to experiment to see if your cat is bothered by a liner in the box. If you do use a liner, make sure it s anchored in place, so it can t easily catch your cat s claws or be pulled out of place. Depth of Litter Some people think that the more litter they put in the box, the less often they will have to clean it, but that s a mistake. Most cats won t use litter that s more than about two inches deep. In fact, some long-haired cats actually prefer less litter and a smooth, slick surface, such as the bottom of the litter box. The fact is the litter box needs to be cleaned on a regular basis, and adding extra litter is not a way around that chore. Litter-Training Cats There s really no such thing as litter-training a cat in the same way one would housetrain a dog. A cat doesn t need to be taught what to do with a litter box because instinct will generally take over. The only thing you need to do is provide an acceptable, accessible litter box, using the suggestions above. It s not necessary to take your cat to the litter box and move her paws back and forth in the litter; in fact, we don t recommend it, as such an unpleasant experience is likely to initiate a negative association with the litter box. If Problems Develop If your cat begins to eliminate in areas other than the litter box, your first call should always be to your veterinarian. Many medical conditions can cause a change in a cat s litter box habits. If your veterinarian determines that your cat is healthy, the cause may be a simple behavior problem that can be resolved by using behavior modification techniques. Punishment is not the answer, nor is banishing your cat outdoors. For long-standing or complex situations, contact an animal-behavior specialist who has experience working with cats. Adapted from material originally developed by applied animal behaviorists at the Dumb Friends League, Denver, Colorado Dumb Friends League and 2003 The HSUS. All rights reserved. Promoting the Protection of All Animals

10 Solving Litter BEHAVIOR SERIES Box Problems IF YOU RE HAVING A HARD TIME persuading your cat to head for the litter box when it s appropriate, it may be time to draw a line in the sand. Most cats prefer eliminating on a loose, grainy substance, which is why they quickly learn to use a litter box. But when their preferences include the laundry basket, the bed, or the Persian rug, you may find yourself with a difficult problem. By taking a closer look at your cat s environment, you should be able to identify factors that have contributed to the litter box problem and make changes that encourage your cat to head for the litter box once again. A common reason why cats don t use the litter box is an aversion to the box, such as dislike of a covered box or dissatisfaction with the depth of the litter. Two other common reasons your cat may avoid the litter box are a preference for a particular type of litter not provided in the box or a preference for a particular location where there is no box. Sometimes the problem is a combination of all three factors. To get to the answer, you ll need to do a little detective work and remember, the original source of the problem may not be the reason it s continuing. For example, your cat may have stopped using the litter box because of a urinary tract infection, and then developed a surface preference for carpet and a location preference for the bedroom closet. If that s the case, you ll need to address all three of these factors to resolve the problem. Cats don t stop using their litter boxes because they re upset at their human caregivers and determined to get revenge for something that offended or angered them. Because humans act for these reasons, it s easy for us to assume that our pets do as well. But animals don t act out of spite or revenge, so it won t help to punish your cat or give her special privileges in the hope that she ll start using the litter box again. Medical Problems It s common for cats with medical problems to begin eliminating outside of their litter boxes. For example, a urinary tract infection or crystals in the urine can make urination very painful and both are serious conditions that require medical attention. Cats often associate this pain with the litter box and begin to avoid it. So if your cat has a housesoiling problem, check with your veterinarian first to rule out any medical problems as a cause of the behavior. Cats don t always act sick even when they are, and only a trip to the veterinarian for a thorough physical examination can rule out a medical problem. Cleaning Soiled Areas Because animals are highly motivated to continue soiling an area that smells like urine or feces and because cats sense of smell is so much stronger than humans it s important to thoroughly and properly clean the soiled areas. Aversion to the Litter Box Your cat may have decided that the litter box is an unpleasant place to eliminate if: The box is not clean enough for her. She has experienced painful urination or defecation in the box due to a medical problem. She has been startled by a noise while using the box. She has been ambushed while in the box either by another cat, a child, a dog, or by you, if you were attempting to catch her for some reason. She associates the box with punishment (for example, someone punished her for eliminating outside the box, then placed her in the box). What You Can Do Keep the litter box extremely clean. Scoop at least once a day and change the litter completely every four to five days. If you use scoopable litter, you may not need to change the litter as frequently, depending on the number of cats in the household, the size of the cats, and the number of litter boxes. For complete tips and advice on pet behavior and other pet care topics, visit continued on reverse side

11 If you can smell the box, then you can be pretty sure it s offensive to your cat as well. Add a new box in a different location, and use a different type of litter in the new box. Because your cat has decided that her old litter box is unpleasant, you ll want to make the new one different enough that she doesn t simply apply the old, negative associations to the new box. Make sure that the litter box isn t near an appliance (such as a furnace) that makes noise, or in an area of the home that your cat doesn t frequent. If ambushing is a problem, create more than one exit from the litter box, so that if the ambusher is waiting by one area, your cat always has an escape route. If you have multiple cats, provide one litter box for each cat, plus one extra box in a different location. Surface Preferences All animals develop preferences for a particular surface on which they like to eliminate. These preferences may be established early in life, but they may also change overnight for reasons that we don t always understand. Your cat may have a surface preference if: She consistently eliminates on a particular texture for example, soft-textured surfaces such as carpeting, bedding, or clothing, or slick-textured surfaces such as tile, cement, bathtubs, or sinks. She frequently scratches on this same texture after elimination, even if she eliminates in the litter box. She is or was previously an outdoor cat and prefers to eliminate on grass or soil. What You Can Do If you recently changed the type or brand of your cat s litter, go back to providing the litter that your cat had been using. If your cat is eliminating on soft surfaces, try using a high-quality scoopable litter. If your cat is eliminating on slick, smooth surfaces, try putting a very thin layer of litter at one end of the box, leaving the other end bare, and put the box on a hard floor. If your cat has a history of being outdoors, add some soil or sod to the litter box. To discourage your cat from using a certain area, cover the area with an upside-down carpet runner or aluminum foil, or place citrus-scented cotton balls over the area. Related topics at Removing Pet Stains and Odors Reducing Urine-Marking Behavior in Dogs and Cats This information provided for you by Location Preferences Your cat may have a location preference if: She always eliminates in quiet, protected places, such as under a desk, beneath a staircase, or in a closet. She eliminates in an area where the litter box was previously kept or where there are urine odors. She eliminates on a different level of the home from where the litter box is located. What You Can Do Put at least one litter box on every level of your home. (Remember, a properly cleaned litter box does not smell.) To make the area where she has been eliminating less appealing to your cat, cover the area with an upside-down carpet runner or aluminum foil, place citrus-scented cotton balls over the area, or place water bowls in the area (because cats often don t like to eliminate near where they eat or drink) or put a litter box in the location where your cat has been eliminating. When she has consistently used this box for at least one month, you may gradually move it to a more convenient location at the rate of an inch seriously! per day. Everyone Makes Mistakes If you catch your cat in the act of eliminating outside the litter box, do something to interrupt her like making a startling noise, but be careful not to scare her. Immediately take her to the litter box and set her on the floor nearby. If she wanders over to the litter box, wait and praise her after she eliminates in the box. If she takes off in another direction, she may want privacy, so watch from afar until she goes back to the litter box and eliminates, then praise her when she does. Don t ever punish your cat for eliminating outside of the litter box. By the time you find the soiled area, it s too late to administer a correction. Do nothing but clean it up. Rubbing your cat s nose in it, taking her to the spot and scolding her, or inflicting any other type of punishment will only make her afraid of you or afraid to eliminate in your presence. Animals don t understand punishment after the fact, even if it s only seconds later, and trying to punish them will often make matters worse. Other Types of House Soiling Problems Marking/Spraying: To determine if your cat is marking or spraying, consult a veterinarian or animal behaviorist. Fears or Phobias: When animals become frightened, they may lose control of their bladders or bowels. If your cat is afraid of loud noises, strangers, or other animals, she may soil the home when she is exposed to these stimuli. Adapted from material originally developed by applied animal behaviorists at the Dumb Friends League, Denver, Colorado Dumb Friends League and 2003 The HSUS. All rights reserved. Promoting the Protection of All Animals

12 Using Aversives to Modify BEHAVIOR SERIES Your Cat s Behavior W E RE ALL FAMILIAR WITH the impact that curiosity can have on a cat s life expectancy, but a cat s penchant for nosing around can be pretty upsetting to his caregivers as well. That s why some cat owners seek to deter their felines from doing certain things through the use of aversives. Aversives are tools and techniques used to keep cats away from particular places or to stop them from engaging in undesirable behaviors. Establishing an effective aversive stimulus to prevent various antics is often a case of trial and error, as individual reactions will vary with each cat. But don t forget that even after you ve found the best method to discourage a cat from a particular action or place, the approach will seldom work effectively unless you offer a positive alternative that is both convenient and rewarding. What are some typical aversives used by cat caregivers? Here s a rundown of some common deterrents, each of which will have varying degrees of success depending on the objective and the cat. Textures One way to keep your cat away from certain areas is to surround (or cover) the area with materials that make your cat s paws uncomfortable. Try shelf paper (sticky side up) or double-sided carpet tape. Heavy plastic carpet runner (pointed side up) can also be used effectively in some situations. You may need to weight the material firmly or tape it down to ensure it stays put. To protect furniture or floor finishes from sticky substances, attach the aversive to a piece of foil or heavy plastic and secure that with weights or light tape. Smells Because cats are often attracted or repelled by certain scents, you can set boundaries by soaking cotton balls, rags, or washcloths in a stinky substance that is not harmful to cats. To help protect carpets, upholstery, floors, or furniture, place the saturated object on a piece of weighted foil or heavy plastic. To prevent the substance from seeping into the ground, use the same precautions. Some of the most effective substances to apply include the following: Citrus odors such as concentrated juices or fresh peels Colognes Some muscle rubs (NOTE: Some cats react to menthol as they do to catnip beware!) Aloe gel Tastes Just as certain odors will discourage cats from visiting places where you don t want them, certain displeasing tastes will keep them from returning. Some of the following substances may damage furniture or floor continued on reverse side For complete tips and advice on pet behavior and other pet care topics, visit

13 finishes, however, so be sure to test them in a hidden location before widespread use. Bitter Apple or similar sprays and gels marketed specifically for pet taste aversion Some muscle rubs Citrus, such as from concentrated juices or fresh peels Aloe gel Human-Controlled Aversives Some items can be used to distract your cat and thereby interrupt his unwanted behavior. Such devices are not meant to terrify your cat, but to provide a brief distraction. It s best if your cat does not perceive the distraction as coming from you. In the instant your cat s attention is focused on the distracting action, redirect his behavior to an appropriate object, and then give him lots of praise. Some effective aversives that you control include: Spray bottle or squirt gun filled with water or a combination of water and vinegar (NOTE: Avoid highpowered water guns that have a very forceful spray) Loud air horn Whistle Shaker can (soda can filled with nails, pennies, beans, or pebbles then securely taped shut) Surprise! Remote Aversives Sometimes the best approach for teaching an animal is to work from a distance. If every aversive is delivered when you re in the room, your cat may quickly learn, for example, to jump on the coffee table only when you re not around. A few good approaches include: Motion detectors that react with a startling sound Snappy trainer (an upside-down mouse trap that s securely taped under paper to avoid injury) Aluminum pie plate containing water, beans, or pebbles preferably balanced precariously on a counter or other undesirable jumping surface so that it will fall off when your cat jumps up ScatMat (which delivers a very slight electrical shock) When using aversives, remember that they offer the advantage of modifying certain feline behaviors in ways that distance the correction from you, the caregiver. Experiment with different types of aversives and try to match the aversive to the cat. For example, using a surprise technique on a cat who tends to be fearful should be a last resort. Above all, be patient and give your feline frequent play sessions and attention as well as appropriate objects for him to scratch, claw, and climb. That way, your cat s antics will amuse you instead of annoy you, and the special bond between both of you will continue to grow. Adapted from material originally developed by applied animal behaviorists at the Dumb Friends League, Denver, Colorado Dumb Friends League and 2003 The HSUS. All rights reserved. Related topics at Cats: Destructive Scratching Solving Litter Box Problems This information provided for you by Promoting the Protection of All Animals

14 Positive Reinforcement BEHAVIOR SERIES Training Your Cat WE ALL LIKE TO BE PRAISED rather than punished. The same is true for your cat, and that s the theory behind positive reinforcement. Positive reinforcement means giving your pet something pleasant or rewarding immediately after she does something you want her to do. Because your praise or reward makes her more likely to repeat that behavior in the future, it is one of your most powerful tools for shaping or changing your cat s behavior. It s more effective to teach your pet what she should do than try to teach her what she shouldn t. Correct timing is essential when using positive reinforcement. The reward must occur immediately within seconds or your cat may not associate it with the proper action. For example, when your cat uses her scratching post, you can throw a piece of dry cat food for her to chase as a reward. Many cats enjoy chasing (hunting) their food and it s good exercise too. But if you throw the food when she has stopped scratching the post and is walking toward you, she will think she s being rewarded for coming to you. Consistency is also an important element in training. Everyone in the family should reward the same desired behaviors. Using Positive Reinforcement Positive reinforcement may include food treats, praise, petting, or a favorite toy or game. When your pet is first learning a new behavior, such as clawing the scratching post instead of your couch, she should be rewarded every time you catch her using her scratching post. You may even help shape her behavior of using the scratching post by spraying it with catnip (if she reacts positively to catnip) or enticing her with a toy that you dangle on the post. Taking your cat over to the scratching post, positioning her paws on the post, and raking them along the post to show her what she s supposed to do will likely have the opposite effect of encouraging her to use the post. She may interpret your actions as frightening and uncomfortable. It s important to look at the world from her point of view. Once your cat reliably offers the desired behavior, you may reward her with treats intermittently, for example, three out of every four times she does the behavior. Then, over time, reward her about half the time, then about a third of the time, and so on, until you re only rewarding her occasionally with a treat. Continue to praise her every time. Your cat will learn that if she keeps offering desired behaviors, eventually she ll get what she wants your praise and an occasional treat. You won t be forever bound to carry a pocketful of goodies, but it s fun to surprise your cat from time to time. The Pros and Cons of Punishment Punishment can be verbal, postural, or physical and is meant to make your pet immediately associate something unpleasant when she does something you don t want her continued on reverse side For complete tips and advice on pet behavior and other pet care topics, visit

15 to do. The punishment makes it less likely that the behavior will occur again. To be effective, punishment must be delivered while your pet is engaged in the undesirable behavior in other words, caught in the act. If the punishment is delivered too late, even seconds later, your pet will not associate the punishment with the undesired behavior. The punishment will seem unpredictable to her. Remember, cats do not act out of spite or revenge, and they don t have a moral sense of right and wrong. Never use physical punishment that involves discomfort or pain as this may cause her to bite, defend herself, or resort to other undesirable behaviors. Holding your cat s neck skin and shaking her may result in a frightened cat who scratches or bites to defend herself. And punishment might be associated with other stimuli, including people, that are present at the time the punishment occurs. For example, a cat who is punished for getting too close to a new baby may become fearful of, or aggressive toward, that baby or toward other babies. That s why physical punishment is not only bad for your cat, it s also bad for you and others. Punishment delivered by you may erode your cat s trust and frighten her. That s why punishment is most effective when it does not come directly from you. For example, if your cat enjoys scratching the couch, you may apply special doublesided tape to those surfaces. Cats rarely like sticky paws. Your cat will perceive the couch, instead of you, as delivering the punishment. In this way, too, your cat is more likely to avoid the undesirable behavior when you re not around. However, it is critical that while discouraging undesirable behaviors, you help your cat understand what you want her to do and provide appropriate outlets for her normal cat behaviors. One of the reasons that cats are such fun companions is that when they re not sleeping, many of them enjoy playing. Playing helps your cat develop physically and behaviorally. Providing appropriate play outlets for your cat can reduce undesirable behaviors. Be sure your cat has safe toys to play with by herself, and don t underestimate the power of playing with your cat to strengthen the bond between you and enhance the quality of life for both of you. Adapted from material originally developed by applied animal behaviorists at the Dumb Friends League, Denver, Colorado Dumb Friends League and 2003 The HSUS. All rights reserved. Related topics at Cat Toys and How to Use Them This information provided for you by Promoting the Protection of All Animals

16 Cat Toys and BEHAVIOR SERIES How to Use Them ALTHOUGH CATS generally have different play styles than their canine counterparts, toys are as much a necessity for cats as they are for dogs. Toys help fight boredom and give cats an outlet for their instinctive prey-chasing behaviors. And when you are the one moving the toy around while your cat fishes for it, chases after it, or jumps in pursuit of it, playtime becomes a bonding experience for you and your cat. Safe Toys Our mothers always told us no playing ball in the house, but cats can usually participate in that forbidden exercise without knocking down a vase or a lamp (and being grounded for two weeks). Still, there are plenty of factors that may contribute to the safety of the toy they re batting around. Many of those factors are completely dependent upon your cat s size, activity level, and preferences. Another factor to be considered is the environment in which your cat spends her time. Although we can t guarantee your cat s enthusiasm or her safety with any specific toy, we can offer the following guidelines. Be Cautious The things that are usually the most attractive to cats are often the very things that are the most dangerous. Cat-proof your home by removing string, ribbon, yarn, rubber bands, plastic milk jug rings, paper clips, pins, needles, dental floss, and anything else that could be ingested. All of these items are dangerous, no matter how cute your cat may appear when she s playing with them. Avoid or alter any toys that aren t cat proof by removing ribbons, feathers, strings, eyes, or other small parts that could be chewed and ingested. Soft toys should be machine washable. Look for stuffed toys that are labeled as safe for children under three years of age and that don t contain any dangerous fillings. Problem fillings include things like nutshells and polystyrene beads. Remember that rigid toys are not as attractive to cats. Recommended Toys Active Toys Round plastic shower curtain rings, which are fun either as a single ring to bat around, hide, or carry, or when linked together and hung in an enticing spot. Plastic balls, with or without bells inside. Ping-Pong balls and plastic practice golf balls with holes to help cats carry them. Try putting one in a dry bathtub, as the captive ball is much more fun than one that escapes under the sofa. You ll probably want to remove the balls from the bathtub before bedtime, or you may lose some sleep, as two o clock in the morning seems to be a prime time for this game. continued on reverse side For complete tips and advice on pet behavior and other pet care topics, visit

17 Paper bags with any handles removed. Paper bags are good for pouncing, hiding, and interactive play. Plastic bags are not a good idea, as many cats like to chew and ingest the plastic. Sisal-wrapped toys, which are very attractive to cats who tend to ignore soft toys. Empty cardboard tubes from toilet paper and paper towels, made even more fun if you unwind a little cardboard to get them started. Comfort Toys Soft stuffed animals, which are good for several purposes. For some cats, the stuffed animal should be small enough to carry around. For cats who want to wrestle with the toy, the stuffed animal should be about the same size as the cat. Toys with legs and a tail seem to be especially enticing to cats. Cardboard boxes, especially those a little too small for your cat to fit into. Catnip Catnip-filled soft toys, which cats like to kick, carry, and rub. Catnip is not addictive and is perfectly safe for cats to roll in, rub in, or eat. Plain catnip can be crushed and sprinkled on the carpet or, for easier cleanup, on a towel placed on the floor. Catnip oils will often stay in the carpet, and although they re not visible to us, your cat will still be able to smell them. Catnip sprays rarely have enough power to be attractive to cats. Not all cats are affected by catnip. Some cats may become overstimulated to the point of aggressive play and others may become relaxed. Kittens under six months old seem to be immune to catnip. Get the Most out of Toys! Rotate your cat s toys weekly by making only a few available at a time. Keep a variety of types easily accessible. If your cat has a favorite, like a soft baby that she loves to cuddle with, you may want to leave that one out all the time. Provide toys that offer a variety of uses at least one toy to carry, one to wrestle with, one to roll, and one to baby. Hide-and-seek is a fun game for cats. Found toys are often much more attractive than a toy which is obviously introduced. Many of your cat s toys should be interactive. Interactive play is very important for your cat because she needs active people time and such play also enhances the bond between you and your pet. Cats generally engage in three types of play fishing, flying, and chasing and all types are much more engaging for cats when you are part of them. Adapted from material originally developed by applied animal behaviorists at the Dumb Friends League, Denver, Colorado Dumb Friends League and 2003 The HSUS. All rights reserved. Related topics at Introducing Your New Cat to Your Other Pets This information provided for you by Promoting the Protection of All Animals