A STEP BY STEP GUIDE TO GETTING STARTED WITH JEWELLERY MAKING

Transcription

1 A STEP BY STEP GUIDE TO GETTING STARTED WITH JEWELLERY MAKING

2 GLOSSARY ROUNDS HEADPIN EYEPIN JUMP RING CORD END FASTENER BAIL EAR WIRE CRIMP COVER END CRIMP & RING CRIMP TUBE CRIMP BEAD TOGGLE BAR EXTENDER CHAIN TRIGGER CATCH SPLIT RING CHARM SCROLL BELL CAP CARRIER

3 GLOSSARY CHAIN NOSE PLIERS ROUND NOSE PLIERS FLUSH CUTTERS CRIMPING PLIERS FLAT NOSE PLIERS MEMORY WIRE CUTTERS TWEEZERS BEAD GAUGE BEAD SCOOP SNIPPERS SPLIT RING PLIERS JUMP RING TOOL CALOTTE / NECKLACE END EARSTUD & RING BOLT RING TRI-TRAY PEARL KNOTTER BEADING AWL

4 WITH OVER 40 YEAR S EXPERIENCE OF SUPPLYING JEWELLERY DESIGNERS ABOUT BEADHOUSE Welcome to Bead House, our company has over 40 years experience in the jewellery design trade. We hope this guide will provide you with a good reference to the main jewellery making techniques, to help you on your path to becoming a jewellery designer. For more inspiration and ideas, we have a whole section full of design & trend led inspiration on our website, further How To guides, video tutorials, pre-designed Jewellery Making Kits and over 9,000 beading product lines. facebook.com/beadhouseuk twitter.com/beadhouseuk Search Bead House on Youtube pinterest.com/beadhouse

5 CONTENTS Page 1 - HOW TO CREATE A WIRE LOOP Page 2 - HOW TO CREATE A WRAPPED LOOP Page 3 -CREATING EARRINGS Page 4 - CREATING A PENDANT Page 5 - OPENING & CLOSING JUMP RINGS Page 5 - JUMP RING SIZING CHART Page 6 - DIFFERENT CRIMPING METHODS Page MAKING BRACELETS & NECKLACES WITH BEADING WIRE Page 8 - GUIDE TO BEADING WIRE GAUGES AND SIZES Page 9 - NECKLACE & BRACELET LENGTH GUIDE Page 10 - MAKING A STRETCH BRACELET Page 11 - HOW TO TIE FRIENDSHIP / SLIDING KNOTS Page 12 - MAKING ROUND CORD NECKLACES Page MAKING FLAT LEATHER / SUEDE NECKLACES

6 Page 1 HOW TO CREATE A WIRE LOOP 1 1 x Head Pin 1 x Bead of your choice Round Nose Pliers Flush Cutters 2 Thread your bead onto a head pin.and bend the head pin to a 90 angle. Trim the wire to a length of 1cm with flush cutters. 3 4 You can reopen/ close the loop if you need to at anytime. Grip the end of the wire and use the round nose pliers to roll/bend the wire towards the bead to form a loop. Your loop should look like this. You can now attach your bead to earrings, necklaces and more.

7 HOW TO CREATE A WRAPPED LOOP Page x Head Pin 1 x Bead of your choice Chain Nose pliers Round Nose Pliers Flush Cutters 2 Thread your bead onto a head pin.and bend the head pin to a 90 angle. Using a pair of pliers or by hand take the end of the wire and wrap around the round nose pliers and cross underneath to create a loop. 3 4 Reposition the pliers to take hold of the loop. Using another set of pliers start to wrap the wire around the stem, forming a nice tight coil. When the coil reaches the top of the bead, snip off the excess wire with flush cutters. Use your pliers to neaten the end of the wire and coil if necessary

8 Page 3 CREATING EARRINGS 1 2x Pairs of Pliers 2x Jump Rings 2x Earwires 2 x Wire Wrapped Beads/Droppers 2 If using natural beads, remember to select a matching pair. See previous page to create wire wrapped loops on your beads If you are using droppers/charms, these will already have a loop attached. Open a jump ring (see page 5) attach to the loop at the top of the bead or on to your dropper/charm. 3 4 There are a variety of different earwires and studs you can use. Next attach the earwire and close the jump ring. Repeat this process on the second earring. Your finished earrings should look like this.

9 CREATING A PENDANT Page 4 2x Pairs of Pliers 1x Bail 1x Headpin 1x Bead of your choice 1 2 Thread your bead onto a head pin and bend the head pin to a 90 angle. Using a pair of pliers or by hand take the end of the wire and wrap around the round nose pliers and cross underneath to create a loop. 3 4 Thread the loop at the base of the bail onto the head pin so that the bail loop sits inside the head pin loop. Grip the loop of the headpin with some pliers. Using another set of pliers start to wrap the wire around the stem, forming a nice tight coil. Snip off the excess wire with flush cutters.

10 Page 5 OPENING & CLOSING JUMP RINGS 2x Pairs of Pliers 1x Jump Ring 1x Pairs of Pliers 1x Jump Ring Jump Ring Tool Be sure not to pull sideways apart as this will distort the ring. PLIER METHOD Grip the jump ring with two pairs of pliers and twist in a north/south direction. JUMP RING TOOL METHOD Place the jump ring tool on your finger and hold secure. With a pair of pliers, place the jump ring into a groove on the tool and twist in a north/south direction to open and close. JUMP RING SIZING CHART 4mm 6mm 8mm 10mm Jump rings are also available soldered/closed which can be used where a solid ring is required in your jewellery designs.

11 DIFFERENT CRIMPING METHODS Page 6 SIMPLE CRIMPING METHOD You can use a crimp bead or crimp tube for this method. CRIMPING PLIER METHOD Use a crimp tube for this method. We recommend a 2mm x 2mm tube. Flat/Chain Nose Pliers Crimp Bead Beading Wire Crimping Pliers Crimp Tube Beading Wire Thread your beading wire through your crimp, base of clasp and back through the crimp. Ensure beading wires stay parallel and are not crossed. Inner Jaw Outer Jaw Thread your beading wire through your crimp, base of clasp and back through the crimp. Ensure beading wires stay parallel and are not crossed. Compress with chain/flat nose pliers. Place the crimp part into the inner jaw and compress to create a U shape. Ensure beading wire is securely held by crimp. Rotate and crimp in the outer jaw to make a nice compact tube. Moving to the outer jaw turn the crimp 90 and compress to make a tube

12 Page 7 MAKING BRACELETS & NECKLACES WITH BEADING WIRE 1 Beads of.s your choice SEE PAGE 9 FOR NECKLACE LENGTHS Beading Wire 2x Crimp Tubes 2x Crimp Covers 1x Trigger Catch 1x Split Ring Chain Nose Pliers Crimping Pliers Flush Cutters 2 Cut a length of beading wire, to the length of the necklace/bracelet you require but remember to leave 15cm (6 inches) extra. Thread the beads onto the beading wire in the pattern of your choice. Then thread a crimp tube onto one end of the beading wire. Thread the loop at the base of the trigger clasp onto the beading wire. Pass the end of the beading wire back through the crimp and pull the wire tight. 3 4 Ensure wires are side by side and crimp. Please see Page 6 for different crimping methods. Leave a cm and feed back into the next bead to create a secure and tidy finish. Use the flush cutters to trim the excess beading wire.

13 5 MAKING BRACELETS & NECKLACES WITH BEADING WIRE 6 Page 8 This technique can be used with any clasp. Push a crimp cover over the compressed crimp tube. Press the crimp cover together with a pair of pliers. Press lightly to avoid flattening the crimp cover. Your finished necklace end should look like this. Repeat steps 1-5 at the opposite end to attach your split ring. Alternatively a soldered jump ring can be used. GUIDE TO BEADING WIRE GAUGES AND SIZES. The more strands = better quality, more kink resistant and better flexibility. STRANDS QUALITY FLEXIBILITY PRICE GAUGE FOR BEST USE WITH: 3 Strand /Tiger Tail Okay Very Low.012 For delicate pearls, seed beads and other small hole beads 7 Strand 19 Strand Good Very Good Low Medium Most versatile & useable Medium light. Great for pearls and gemstones. All purpose diameter. Perfect for gemstones. 49 Strand The Best High Best for use with heavy large items such as large chunky gemstones which need a high break strength. Always choose a wire diameter which fits snug to the hole size of your beads. Reducing excess space in the bead hole stops abrasion of your wire.

14 Page 9 NECKLACE & BRACELET LENGTH GUIDE NECKLACE LENGTHS BRACELET SIZES BRACELET STANDARD ADULT 7.5 / 19cm BRACELET STANDARD CHILD 6.5 / 16cm The beauty of making your own jewellery is that you can personalise the length to whatever you want

15 MAKING A STRETCH BRACELET Page 10 Snippers / Scissors Elastic Cord Beads of your choice 1 Pre-stretch the elastic beforehand to avoid sagging after wearing. 2 Start by threading the beads in a design of your choice until the bracelet is to your desired length, check against your wrist for sizing. Now leaving equal lengths of elastic cord at each end tie the elastic in a double knot. 3 4 To make the knot extra secure, add a dab of glue. Pull the knot as tight as you can. Check the knot is secure and trim the excess elastic with snippers or scissors.

16 Page 11 HOW TO TIE FRIENDSHIP / SLIDING KNOTS Snippers / Scissors A Length of Cord 1 2 Cut a length of cord approximately 40-45cm. Form a loop with one end of the cord. Wrap the end of the cord around and back through the loop. 3 4 This method can also be used to create necklaces. Pull the knot as tight as you can. Repeat at the opposite side to your first knot. Trim the excess cord. Your bracelet should look like this.

17 MAKING ROUND CORD NECKLACES Page 12 A Length of Cord 2 x Crimp & Rings 1 x Trigger Catch 2 x Jump Rings Extender Chain Chain Nose Pliers 1 Adding a spot of jewellery glue to end of the cord will make the ending more secure. 2 Cut a length of cord to your required size. Insert the end of the cord into the crimp & ring. Use your round nose pliers to press the tube down firmly in the middle segment to ensure that it grips the cord securely. 3 4 Open a jump ring and attach to the ring at the end of the cord. Then attach the trigger catch (or clasp of your choice) by it s loop and close the jump ring. Repeat this technique to attach an extender chain at the other end of the cord.

18 Page 13 MAKING FLAT LEATHER / SUEDE NECKLACES 1 A length of flat cord 2 x Cord End Fastener 1x Trigger Clasp 2 x Split ring 1x Extender Chain Chain Nose pliers Split Ring Pliers 2 Adding a spot of jewellery glue to end of the cord will make the ending more Cut a length of flat cord to your required size. secure. Insert the end of the flat cord into the cord end fastener. Use chain nose pliers to press down one of the metal flaps on the cord end fastener. 3 4 Press down the other metal flap of the cord end fastener. The second flap should sit neatly on top of the first flap. Press all the way along the top of the cord ending to make sure it is evenly flattened down. Use split ring pliers or manually by hand, prise open the split ring then attach to the loop on the cord end fastener. Next attach the trigger catch and feed round until connected.

19 MAKING FLAT LEATHER / SUEDE NECKLACES Page Your necklace is now complete and ready to wear. Attach the extender chain onto the other cord end fastener using the remaining split ring. CLASP GUIDE 7 BOLT RINGS (Spring Rings, Spring Clasps) MAGNETIC TOGGLE BAR (Bar and Ring, T-Bar) TRIGGER CATCH (Lobster Clasp, Bocklebee Clasp, Carabiner Catch) Alternatively you can attach a toggle bar to the cord end fasteners, if you prefer. A further guide to clasps is available by visiting BEADHOUSE.CO.UK/CLASPS

20 w: e: t: +44(0) Bead House, Quarmby Mills, Tanyard Road, Oakes, Huddersfield, West Yorkshire, England HD3 4YP