COMBI-HINGE AND LOCK JIG

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1 Unika Color Products Ltd. Unika House New York Way New York Industrial Park Newcastle Upon Tyne NE27 0QF Helpline Tel: COMBI-HINGE AND LOCK JIG The Combi-hinge and lock jig is designed to accurately cut the recesses of 2mm and 76mm hinges of varying inset widths into both doors and door frames. In addition it can be used to cut the apertures needed for three of the most popular lock bodies and face plates. Before the jig can be used the door should be trimmed to size to leave a 3mm gap along the top and side, and a mm gap at the bottom Contents 1 x jig plate 2 x Hinge templates 3 x Lock body templates 3 x Face plate templates 2 x F clamps + fixings 4 x Sliding blocks + fixings 2 x Bradawls 1 x Corner chisel Hinges When using the jig for hinge recesses the sliding blocks must first be fitted. Fig. 1. Shows the correct way the blocks should be fitted so that they line the jig up against the door and frame. All other fixings, i.e. F clamps, must be removed when setting the jig for hinge cuts. 1

2 Fig. 1 Jig Face Jig Back Using the measurements on the face of the jig, slide the blocks so the front edge lines up with the desired inset width (the distance between the edge of the hinge and the knuckle of the hinge), and tighten the screw. Fig. 2 shows a block set up to inset a hinge by mm. Fig. 2 Repeat this process for the remaining slot and ensure that the screws are not loosened until the job has been completed. Door routing Starting from the top of the door measure the distance to the centre of the top hinge and put a horizontal pencil mark on the door. Again from the top of the door measure the distance to the centre of the middle hinge (If required) and the bottom hinge. Again, marking horizontally with a pencil. Make a note of all measurements as these will be needed for marking the frame. With the door clamped, edge to be routed facing upwards, position the jig on the edge with the sliding blocks on the underside of the jig against the door. 2

3 Select the appropriate template and push into the most suitable recess so that the door/frame arrows match those on the jig face. Slide the jig up or down the edge of the door, keeping the blocks on the underside against the door, until the engraved lines on the template match up with the pencil line on the door (see Fig. 3). Fig. 3 Pencil line DOOR DOOR 2mm HINGE DOOR Area to be recessed by router Once the jig is lined up fix it in place by pushing the two bradawls through the appropriate holes on the jig face and into the door. Prepare the router with a 16mm guide bush and 12.7mm (1/2 inch) straight cutter. Set the router to cut the thickness of the hinge plate. Starting in the bottom left corner of the template aperture route in a clockwise direction until the recess is complete. Once this is done remove the bradawls and slide the jig down the door, making sure the sliding blocks on the underside stay in contact with the door, until the next pencil mark is lined up. To do this you will need to use the other recesses to hold the template. When the next pencil line is matched up, fix the jig in place again with the bradawls and repeat the routing process. When all recesses in the door have been routed remove the jig, taking care not to loosen or move the sliding blocks. Use the corner chisel to square off the corners of the routed hinge recesses. Frame routing The frame needs to be marked in a similar way to the door but should allow for a 3mm gap along the top edge. To do this you need to measure down from the top of the frame, the same distance as from the top of the door plus 3mm. For example, if the centre of the top hinge on the door is 180mm from the top of the door, the frame should be marked at 183mm from the top of the frame. Similarly if the centre of the bottom hinge is 17mm from the top of the door, then the frame needs to be marked at 173mm from the top of the frame. 3

4 By rotating the jig through 180 the jig will line up along the side of the frame to be routed with the sliding blocks against the edge of the frame (see Fig. 4) Fig. 4 FRAME FRAME FRAME Pencil line 2mm HINGE Area to be recessed by router Once the jig engravings are lined up to the pencil marks on the frame, the jig is fixed in place using the two bradawls, this time pushed through the jig into the frame. Repeat the routing process as for the door and then repeat for the remaining hinge recesses by removing bradawls, sliding up the frame and re-fixing. Once all recesses are cut, square off the corners with the corner chisel. 4

5 Locks The Lock part of the combi jig is designed to help the routing out of door edges to accommodate lock bodies and face plates. The jig is self-centring when clamped to the door. Before use the jig must be assembled. Remove the sliding blocks, used for the hinge set up, and Insert each of the F shaped clamps through the holes in the face of the jig and fix them in place with the retaining butterfly bolts (See Fig. ) Fig. "F" Clamps Clamp direction to centre door Clamp direction to centre door Butterfly bolt fixings Set the door with the edge to be routed facing up. Mark the centre point of the lock position and draw a line through this point across the width of the door edge. Loosen slightly the butterfly bolts on the jig, set the two clamp handles at right angles to the jig then place the jig on the edge of the door. Select the correct size insert for the lock that is to be fitted and place into the centre recess on jig face. Place jig so that engraved lines match up with line marked on the edge of the door. Move the clamp handles to hold the jig firmly on the door edge (the bradawls can also be used to hold the jig in place and improve stability). This will centre the cut out vertically on the door edge. Again check that the centre marks are aligned then tighten the butterfly bolts. Prepare the router with a 16mm guide bush and 12.7mm straight cutter and set the router cut depth CUTTING Always work clockwise. Start in the centre of the area to be cut and work towards the edge. Never cut more than mm depth at one cut. Increase depth by mm or less until aperture is cut.

6 Always switch router off and allow it to stop before removing from the jig. Never remove the router from the jig when it is switched on. 6

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