Tools required (Optional to the kit): Hex drivers: 0.9mm and 1.5mm (.9mm Allen key is supplied)

Transcription

1 Eflite Blade SR belt drive modification instructions Thank you for your interest in this modification to suit the new Blade SR RTF helicopter. This kit has been designed to get the most out of the Blade SR. It will replace the electric tail motor and give you a more precise, reliable and consistent tail. No more burnt out tail motors and wagging tails. Tools required (Optional to the kit): Hex drivers: 0.9mm and 1.5mm (.9mm Allen key is supplied) Small Phillips screwdriver (jewellers type, not supplied) Drill bits (not supplied): 1.5mm and 2.0mm. Or our drill guide set Tail servo (not supplied). Can be either analogue or digital as the Eflite gyro supports both. Suggested servos would be micro with speed of 0.10 sec or less: Futaba S or digital S3154, Hitec HS50, Skyartec HS005 (VTS-03A0 Options: Metal Tail (See page two of the Blade SR parts page) Currently sourcing different options. Please check web sit for updates. Carbon tail and stab fins (optional) High tensile aluminium boom (optional)

2 Page 2 Tail brace set (optional) Belt Pulley and clamps Gear spacer Belt guide bearings, idler block and screws Complete tail assembly Fibreglass fins Servo clamps, stabilizer mound and push rod. Not included: Tail servo Kit contents: If any of the parts pictured are not in your kit, please us at rosella@bigpond.net.au

3 Page 3 The transformation begins Fig 1 Remove ball links from swash plate (A), loosen shaft collar (B), remove main gear and install spacer (C). Unplug tail motor and remove boom. Remove tail motor mount from boom. Fig 2 Assemble idler block as pictured in Fig 2. Note: Screw the bearings to the plastic block until tight, then back off until he bearing spins freely. Do not leave them too loose as the screws may rub against the main gear. Fig 3 Place the idler block assembly inside the frame so it is hard up against the back of the frame and the bearings are toward the main shaft. The bearings are off set so they clear the frame and the block mounting screws. Mark the frame as per measurements (fig 3) and drill through the frame and just 2-3mm into the idler block. Repeat for the other side, then insert self tapping screws. An optional drill kit (as pictured Fig 3) is available.

4 Page 4 Attach pulley to main gear using pulley clamps and cap screws. Thread lock is recommended Note: The pulley clamps have a step, which sits inside the moulded recess on the main gear. Fig 4 Slide belt through the frame and around pulley. (Don t forget to install the spacer Fig 1-C) Then install gear/pulley set and original bolt. Push the gear up and secure shaft collar (Fig 1-B). Fig 5 Shorten (by screwing clock wise) the three servo push rods by 1.5mm, to compensate for the added spacer (Fig1-C) Fig 6 Pull belt through the boom and slide the boom onto the frame. I use a long thin wire hook. Note: The boom has a slot (as seen in Fig 6). This must be located correctly inside the frame. Otherwise the belt will not reach the tail pulley and the tail will not be square to the frame.

5 Page 5 Fig 7 The boom needs to be drilled for the tail box locater pin. The hole is located 6mm from the end of the boom. Hole size is 2mm. Ensure the hole is drilled square to the boom, as this will align the tail gearbox. Be careful not to drill the belt! An optional drill kit (as pictured) is available. Slide on servo mounts and tail fin mount.

6 Page 6 Tail assembly NOTE: Before the gearbox is assembled, make double sure belt has only one 90-degree twist so the tail turns clockwise (looking from the fin side), up into the blade wash as the head is turned. Fig 8: Tail box assy Fig 9: Tail blade assy Fig 10: Pitch slider assy Fig 11: Pitch shifter assy Fig 12: Final assembly.

7 Page 7 Tail Servo Fig 13 Install tail servo and push rod. Ensure servo arm and pitch slider arm are parallel. (Fig13-A). Do not over tighten screw at Fig 13-B. Push rod must move freely. Fig 14 Unplug the old tail motor signal wire from the gyro (Fig 14) and plug the servo wire in its place. Remove the servo arm. Now turn on the transmitter and then the helicopter. Place it down and WAIT for the gyro to arm. This may take a couple of seconds. Do not move the helicopter while the gyro is arming. Set the gain to negative (using CH5 knob on the stock transmitter). You must have the yellow remote gain wire plugged into channel 5 on the RX. This will allow the gyro to be in rate mode and the servo will not drift. The servo arm now can be connected, as per Fig13- A. Gyro manual can be found here: Fig 15 Fig 16 Check servo direction by moving the rudder channel right, Fig 15. The pitch slider should move in toward the boom, as per Fig 16. If it does not, reverse channel 4 as per owner s manual (dip switch 4). Owner s manual can be found here: To check gyro direction, move the helicopter left (antilock wise looking from the top), the servo should pull the pitch slider into the boom. If not, flick the reverse switch on the GYRO.

8 Page 8 Final adjustments and test flight. 1) Move the CH5 knob to roughly centre or back to its previous position when the tail motor was installed. This will set the gyro back into heading hold mode. 2) Now slowly throttle up. 3) If the whole helicopter spins rapidly, stop and check your gyro direction, it may need to be reversed. 4) If the tail is rapidly wagging (hunting) decrease the gain slightly until it stops. 5) If the tail is wondering or feels spongy, increase the gain until the tail starts to wag and then decrease slightly until it stops. 6) The front, or canopy of the helicopter should move right when the rudder stick is moved right. If not the rudder channel (dip switch 4) needs to be reversed. 7) If the rudder trim is at its limit and tail still moves in the wrong direction, loosen the servo clamps and slide the servo in the appropriate direction. Example: if the front of the helicopter is always turning left and the trim is all the way to the right, move the servo toward the mast. Then fly and re-trim. 8) At neutral, the pitch slider should be slightly in toward the boom.. The tail will work better in flight mode 1 (or idle up). Increasing the head speed increases cyclic and tail response. We hope this modification will help in improving you flying skills and in understanding how some of the larger RC helicopters work.. If you have any questions or would like to contribute to these instructions, please rosella@bigpond.net.au.