Chapter 23 - Interior Doors & Trim

Transcription

1 Chapter 23 - Interior Doors & Trim Contents Chapter 23 - Interior Doors & Trim Doors Confirm Door Sizes (Superintendent / Project Lead) Organize Materials Install Hinged Doors Install Bypass Doors Jambs Install the Bypass Door Tracks Install the Bypass Doors and Guides Install Bi-fold Doors Door Casing Install Door Casing Install Casing to Cover Bypass Tracks Quality Assurance Checklist Baseboards Install the Baseboard Trim Shoe Molding Install Shoe Molding Sills & Window Trim Install Marble Sills Install the Window Trim Install the Window Skirt (Casing) Quarter Round Install Quarter Round at Bathtub Install Quarter Round at Exterior Doors Install Quarter Round at Kitchen Cabinets Install Quarter Round at Bath Vanities Kneewall Cap Install the Kneewall Caps Handrails Install the Handrails Quality Assurance Checklist June 2015 Doors and Trim 23-1

2 Things to Consider Painting trim before installation is easier and less messy. It is recommended to delay the installation of the flooring until after the contractors are done with the mechanicals and the doors and trim installed first. At the House Lead discretion, the flooring may be done before the trim. Components Interior Doors Door Casing Baseboards Windows Sills & Trim Knee Wall Cap Quarter Round Timing & Prerequisites The doors, bypass door jambs and door casings are installed as soon as the interior walls are painted (or at the House Leads discretion, after the flooring). The baseboards are installed after the cabinets and door casing are installed and before the vinyl plank flooring is installed (or at the House Leads discretion, after the flooring). Baseboards in the baths should be installed after the flooring, door casing and vanities are installed. The window sills, window trim and knee wall cap are installed after the interior walls are painted and before the flooring. The quarter round is installed after the flooring. The House/Project Lead will work with the Construction Superintendent to coordinate these volunteer activities. Interior Doors Pre-Hung Doors Door Slabs (By-Pass Doors) Jambs for By-Pass Doors Bi-fold Doors Jambs for Bi-fold Doors Shims Handrails Handrail Handrail Brackets Kneewall Cap 1x8 S4S Pine or 5/4 engineered Dragon Trim Materials Needed Interior Trim Door Casing (pre-primed) Baseboard (pre-primed) Quarter Round (white) Shoe Molding (pre-primed) Cove molding (pre-primed) Latex Caulk Silicone Caulk 2 ½ Pneumatic Nails 1 ¼ Pneumatic Nails Fast and Finish nail hole filler Stain Stain Rags Foam Brushes Window Sills Adhesive Caulk Door Stop Trim June 2015 Doors and Trim 23-2

3 Phase Specific Tools Needed Description: Quantity: Woodwork & Trim o Coping Saw 3 o Nail Set 2 o Pneumatic Finish Nailer 2 o Pneumatic Brad Nailer 2 o Tack Cloth 1 o Block Plane 1 o Sander 1 Doors Confirm Door Sizes (Superintendent / Project Lead) Review the prints to determine the number and size of doors needed. 1. Measure the door openings to confirm door sizes. Changes may have been made during the construction of the walls. If the changes were unintentional, it is too late to change the door opening. A different size door will need to be ordered. Measure the opening. A 32 door (2-8) should have an opening of 34, but anything from 33 ½ to 34 ½ will usually work. Review the prints to identify the swing of the doors. If changes need to be made, verify the changes with the Construction Director / Superintendent. Doors are identified as right-hand (RH) or left hand (LH) doors depending on the placement of the hinges. o The swing of the door can be determined by standing in the doorway with your back to the hinged side of the frame. o If the door hinges to your right it is a right-hand hinge. If the door hinges to your left it is a left-hand hinge. Adjust the order as needed. Order doors which are approximately 2 smaller than the opening. 2. Validate the doors received. When the doors are delivered, check the inventory of doors to be sure they are doors requested. If the wrong door was delivered, do not open it. It can be exchanged. Organize Materials Critical Issues June 2015 Doors and Trim 23-3

4 Do not lean doors against freshly painted walls. Place a layer of cardboard between the door and the wall to protect the paint. 1. Sort the trim pieces and store them out of the way. 2. Place doors in rooms where they are to be installed. Install Hinged Doors Note: the doors should be installed with a pneumatic finishing nailer and 2 ½ finish nails. 1. Unpack the door. 2. Position the door in the doorway with the hinge on the correct side. Ensure the door fits in the opening with ¼ to ¾ space on each side. Make sure the door swings freely and properly. 3. Place spacers under the door jambs. Close the door into the jamb. If the door will rest on vinyl planks and the flooring has not been installed, insert a small piece of the planking and two (2) pieces of building felt under each side jamb. If the door will rest on carpeting, place a scrap piece of baseboard trim under each side jamb. If the flooring has been installed, set the jambs tight to the flooring. 4. Level the head (top) jamb. Check the level of the top jamb. Add additional spacers under the low side jamb until the head jamb is level. 5. Set the Hinge Jamb. Keep the door closed with one volunteer on each side of the door. Place two (2) opposing shims between the jamb and the stud at the middle hinge. Hold the jamb even with the drywall and place a 2 ½ finish nail through the center of the jamb just above the shims. Place opposing shims between the jamb and the stud at the top hinge until the door side of the jamb is plumb. Move the top of the jamb in or out until the front edge of the jamb is plumb. Insert a 2 ½ finish nail through the center of the jamb just below the top set of shims. Place opposing shims between the jamb and the stud at the bottom hinge until the door side of the jamb is plumb. Insert a 2 ½ finish nail through the center of the jamb just above the bottom set of shims. Re-check the jamb ensure it is plumb on both the side and front edges. Adjust the shims, if needed. Place 2 ½ finish nails through the jamb and through each set of shims; one nail on each side of the jamb. June 2015 Doors and Trim 23-4

5 6. Set the Latch and Head Jambs. 7. Set all nails. Keep the door closed. Ensure the space across the top of the door is even between the door and the head jamb. Adjust the spacer under the latch jamb, if necessary. Starting at the top of the latch jamb, place five (5) sets of opposing shims spaced down the length of the jamb to hold it evenly spaced at 1/8 from the door. Place a 2 ½ finish nail through the center of the jamb just above each set of shims. After all of the shims are installed, check the space between the door and the jamb. Check to be sure the door swings freely. Adjust the shims as needed. Place 2 ½ finish nails through the latch jamb and through each set of shims; one nail on each side of the jamb. Install Bypass Doors Jambs 1. Cut 1 piece of jamb material to fit across the top of the doorway. Cut off the notch end. Cut the piece 1 shorter than the width of the doorway. 2. Assemble the top jamb with 2 side precut jambs. Position the top jamb into the slot at the top of the side jambs and attach using a pneumatic nailer with 2 ½ finishing nails. Place 3 nails through each side jamb into the top jamb. 3. Place the assembly into the door opening. 4. Place spacers under the side jambs. If the floor under the door will be vinyl planking and the flooring has not been installed, place a small piece of vinyl planking and two (2) pieces of building felt under each side jamb. If the floor under the door will be carpeted, place a scrap piece of baseboard trim under both jambs. If the flooring has been installed, set the jambs tight to the flooring. 5. Using a 6 level, check the top jamb for level. If the jamb is not level, place additional pieces of building felt under the jamb on the low side until the top is level. 6. Place shims behind side jambs at the top to hold the top tight in the opening. June 2015 Doors and Trim 23-5

6 7. Align the front edge of top jamb flush with the wall, then nail the top of both side jambs into place using a pneumatic nailer with 2 ½ finishing nails. Place 2 nails through each side jamb at the top, 1 from front and back edges. 8. Using the 6 level, shim each side jamb until they are straight and plumb. Having the side jambs straight and plumb is critical to having the doors fit tightly to the frame. Keep the front edge of the side jambs flush with wall. 9. Nail the side jambs into place with a pneumatic nailer using 2 ½ finishing nails. Place shims every 16 ; check for straight and plumb; and then insert 2 nails just below the shims, one 1 from the front and one 1 from the back. 10. After all of the shims are installed, recheck that the jambs are still straight and plumb. Adjust the shims as needed. The shims should still be loose, which will allow slight adjustments with a hammer tap. Then place 2 more finish nails through the jamb and shims. Install the Bypass Door Tracks 1. Install the door track to the top jamb per the manufacturer s instructions. a. Cut the metal track to a length 1/8 shorter than the opening. b. Install the track 1 3/8 from front of Head Jamb with screws provided. (See Figure 23.1). Be sure when installing the track to move it far enough back in the opening to allow the doors to be installed. The door must clear the top insert casing trim. Figure 23.1 Bypass Door Tracks Install Casing to Cover Bypass Door Tracks Critical Issues June 2015 Doors and Trim 23-6

7 The casing covering the bypass tracks must be ripped down to size to allow the doors to be hung. 1. Cut and install a piece of casing to fit across the top of the doorway opening to cover the bypass door track. Cut the casing to fit snug to the side jambs. Rip the casing to a width which will just cover the track. 2. Attach three (3) 1 x 3/4 blocks of wood to top jamb in front of the track for anchoring the casing. Cut blocks which are 2 x 1 x ¾. Position the blocks on the head jamb flush to the bypass track. Attach with 2 ½ finish nails; 2 nails into the each block. The blocks must not interfere when hanging the doors. 3. Attach the casing to the blocks with 1 ¼ finish nails through the casing into the blocks. Install the Bypass Doors and Guides 1. After the doors are painted, install the door rollers on the doors per the manufacturer s instructions. Be sure to install the A and B rollers on the correct doors. 2. After the flooring has been installed, hang the doors on the door tracks. 3. Plumb the doors and install the guides with the screws provided. Drill pilot holes through the flooring and then install the guides. 4. Adjust the doors to fit snug to the side jambs. 5. Install the door opening hardware inserts in each door per the manufacturer s instructions. Install Bi-fold Doors 1. Using a hammer, gently tap pivot pins and guide into the pre-drilled holes in the locations shown. Figure 23.2 Upper Pin Figure 23.3 Lower Pin Figure 23.4 Bi-Fold Pin Installation June 2015 Doors and Trim 23-7

8 2. Position overhead track in the opening with the open side down and the bracket end toward the jamb. Center the track in the finished opening, or allow at least 3/4" between the track and the front of the finished opening. Secure the track with the long pan head screws through the pre-drilled holes until snug. If installing four panels with two tracks, use a track bracket between the two ends in the center. Figure 23.5 Overhead Track 3. Position the lower bracket on the floor in line with overhead track. The bottom of the bracket must rest securely on the floor or carpet. Fasten to the jamb and floor with a long fl at head screw through each hole. Figure 23.6 Lower Bracket Figure 23.7 Lower Bracket Installation 4. Place the upper pivot pin in the hole in the bracket and the guide in the track (or in the middle of the slide guide between the springs). Lift the door assembly slightly and drop the lower pin into the lower bracket slot. Figure 23.8 Bi-Fold Door Installation 5. Verify there is a 1/4" clearance between the pivot door and the jamb. Four panel assemblies should be snug at the middle. If adjustments are necessary, door panels should be folded, in some cases removed, to gain access to the adjustment screws. To adjust horizontally: June 2015 Doors and Trim 23-8

9 6. At the top, loosen the screw in the top pivot bracket and move toward or away from the jamb until there is 1/4" clearance. Retighten. 7. At the bottom, lift assembly and move the adjusting wheel toward or away from the jamb until doors are plumb with jamb, then lower into bracket. Figure Bi-Fold Horizontal Adjustment To adjust vertically: 8. Lift assembly slightly until the adjustment wheel clears the slot in the lower bracket. Rotate the adjustment wheel to the left to raise doors or to the right to lower them. Be sure the teeth lock firmly into bracket when finished. Figure Bi-Fold Vertical Adjustment 9. Snap the snugger into the lead door end of the track, or between guides in a four door installation. Figure Snugger June 2015 Doors and Trim 23-9

10 10. For four door configurations, mount an aligner as shown on the back side of each lead door. Figure Aligner Figure Bi-fold Aligner Installation 11. For best operational performance and aesthetic appeal, install the door knob in the center of the middle rail of the lead door(s) (panel without pivot hardware). Drill a hole slightly larger than the screw and attach knob. Figure Knob Figure Bi-Fold Knob Placement Door Casing Install Door Casing Casing will be installed on both sides of all interior doors, including closets, and on the inside of all exterior doors. Top Casing 1. Cut a piece of casing molding to fit across the top of the door from a 7 piece of casing. Miter cut both ends of the molding at 45. The piece should be cut long enough that the short side (edge toward the door) measures ½ longer than the distance between the side jambs. 2. Position the top piece centered across the head jamb with a ¼ reveal along the top edge. 3. Nail the trim in place with 1 ¼ and 2 ½ finish nails using a pneumatic nailer. June 2015 Doors and Trim 23-10

11 Place one nail through the bottom edge of the casing into the head jamb, 2 from the right side jamb. Keep the ¼ reveal along the bottom. Place one nail through the bottom edge of the casing into the head jamb at the center of the head jamb. Keep the ¼ reveal along the bottom. Push the left side of the casing up to have a ¼ reveal along the bottom and place one nail through the left side of the jamb into the head jamb. This will hold up the middle of the head jamb. Finish installing the top casing, placing 1 set of 2 ½ nails 12 o.c. along the top edge into the rough framework and placing 1 set of nails along the bottom edge into the door casing with a brad nailer (1 ¼ nails) Side Casing 1. Cut 2 pieces of casing molding to fit along the sides from 7 pieces of casing. Miter cut the top of the molding at 45. The piece should be cut long enough that the short side (edge toward the door) measures the length as the distance from the bottom of the side jamb to the bottom of the top jamb plus ¼. It may be best to set the casing molding in place and mark it to the top piece which has already been installed. The molding will be installed flush with the bottom of the jamb and the miter cut will start ¼ above the bottom edge of the top jamb. 2. Position the casing on the sides of the door flush with the bottom of the jamb and with a ¼ reveal along the door. 3. Nail the trim with the pneumatic nailers. Place 1 set of nails along the outside edge into the rough framework with a finish nailer (2 ½ nails) Place 1 set of nails along the inside edge into the door casing with a brad nailer (1 ¼ nails) 4. Fill the nail holes with fast-drying spackle. Quality Assurance Checklist o Double check the interior doors to make sure they latch, do not rattle, and do not swing open when they are unlatched. o Ensure all nails have been set, and nail holes have been filled and painted. o Ensure bypass doors sit flush to the jambs. o Ensure the bi-fold doors close smoothly and are even. June 2015 Doors and Trim 23-11

12 Baseboards Install the Baseboard Trim 1. Space the baseboard up off of the sub-floor as follows: o In rooms which will be covered with vinyl plank flooring, the baseboard trim will be raised off of the floor to allow the vinyl planks to slide under. Insert a small piece of the planking and two (2) pieces of building felt under the trim at 6 intervals. o In areas which will be carpeted, the baseboard trim will be raised off of the floor to allow the carpeting to be pushed under the baseboards. Cut scrap pieces of baseboard to be used as spacers. Be careful not to use casing trim. Place several spacers under the baseboard before nailing it in place. o In areas where vinyl flooring has already been installed, hold the baseboard tight to the flooring. 2. Over the stairway stringers, install baseboard trim as shown in Figure This baseboard should not be installed until the stringers are painted. 3. Avoid multiple joints in the middle of walls. If multiple pieces are required for a wall, join the pieces with a spline cut (each piece is cut with a 45 degree angle and fit tight together). 4. Install the baseboard trim with a pneumatic finish nailer. Using 2 ½ finish nails, place two (2) nails through the trim into each stud. Do not nail close to the floor. Nailing close to the bottom will draw the bottom of the baseboard in causing it to be towed-in. Place one (1) nail along the top edge and one (1) in the middle. 5. Inside corners will be joined with a cope joint. The end of the baseboard which extends along the wall which is opposite the door will be cut square. The end of the baseboard which meets the square cut will be cut with a cope joint. In this way, the joint will be constructed so upon entering the room, any imperfections in the joint will not be obvious. To make a cope joint: Make a 45 bevel cut in the baseboard with a miter saw. With a sharp coping blade remove the material outlined by the miter cut. Cut the edge with a slight back-cut. 6. Miter cut the outside corners. 7. At doors with door casing, flush cut the baseboard to the door casing. 8. In corners where doors are within an inch or two of the corner, flush cut the baseboard on both ends and install it prior to installing the adjacent piece of baseboard. June 2015 Doors and Trim 23-12

13 9. Miter the baseboard on the staircase. (See Figure 23.17) Use 2 pieces of scrap baseboard to find the angle. Extend 1 piece over the top of the stringer and 1 piece up the edge of the stringer. Mark where the 2 pieces come to a point. Use the angle from the point at the end of the stringer and the mark to determine the angle for the miter. 10. Fill the nail holes with Fast and Finish. When dry, sand to a smooth finish. Shoe Molding Install Shoe Molding In areas with vinyl flooring, apply shoe molding to the baseboard after the flooring has been installed. Shoe molding covers the gap between the flooring and the baseboard. 1. Cut shoe molding to fit along the bottom edge of baseboard molding. Miter cut the shoe molding in the corners. If more than one piece is required for a wall, spline cut the molding. 2. Install the shoe molding with the wider edge positioned against the baseboard molding and the narrow edge positioned against the flooring. 3. Hold the molding down flush to the flooring and attach with a pneumatic nailer using 2 ½ finish nails. Insert the nails at an angle back into the baseboard. Avoid nailing into the flooring. June 2015 Doors and Trim 23-13

14 Figure Stairway Trim Figure Baseboard Trim for Stairways June 2015 Doors and Trim 23-14

15 Sills & Window Trim Install Marble Sills 1. If the window pan has not been cut off, cut the window pan off along the bottom of the window. 2. Clean the sill area. 3. Dry fit the sill. If the sill is too wide, cut it down to fit. If the sill is less than ½ too wide, use a belt sander to remove extra material. If the sill is 1/2 or more too wide, a miter saw can be used; although this will dull the blade. 4. Place a level on the sill. If the sill slopes toward the window or towards one side, shims will be needed under the sill to bring it to level. 5. Cut and attach necessary shims with adhesive caulk. 6. Place 2 - ½ beads of adhesive caulk snaked under the sill. 7. Set the marble sill into place and press down firmly to level the sill. Install the Window Trim 1. Install the door stop trim on the top and sides of the window opening. Cut pieces of trim to fit into the opening; 1 up each side and 1 across the top. Cut the trim at the top corners to 45 angles. Hold the back edge of the trim tight to the window. Install with a pneumatic finish nailer. (1 ¼ nails) 2. Fill the nail holes with Fast and Finish. When dry, sand to a smooth finish. Install the Window Skirt (Casing) 1. Cut a piece of casing to the length of ½ less than the window sill. 2. Cut a double compound miter in each end. The casing will be cut at a 15º angle with a 45º bevel. 3. Space the casing evenly under the window sill. 4. Install the casing with a pneumatic finish nailer, one 1 ¼ nail into each framing member. (See figure 23.17). June 2015 Doors and Trim 23-15

16 Figure Window Skirt Quarter Round After the flooring has been installed in each room, install quarter round to the baseboards to cover the seam between the flooring and the baseboards. At the House Leads discretion, quarter round may not be needed, if there are not gaps between the flooring and the baseboards. Install Quarter Round at Bathtub 1. Cut a piece of white plastic quarter round the length of the tub. 2. Apply a bead of silicone caulk to the edge of the bathtub and the floor. 3. Push the quarter round into the caulk. 4. Nail the quarter round in place with a pneumatic brad nailer. (1 ¼ nails). Place the nails into the floor. Do not nail into the tub. Install Quarter Round at Exterior Doors 1. Cut a piece of quarter round the width of the door. 2. Apply a bead of silicone caulk to the edge of the threshold along the floor. 3. Push the quarter round into the caulk. 4. Nail the quarter round in place with a pneumatic brad nailer. (1 ¼ nails). Install Quarter Round at Kitchen Cabinets 1. Cut pieces of quarter round stained to match the cabinets to fit along the gaps between the flooring and the cabinets. 2. Install quarter round on exposed sides of cabinets. Do not install quarter round along sides where the range will be installed. 3. Install quarter round along the fronts of the cabinets. June 2015 Doors and Trim 23-16

17 4. Install quarter round on all sides of the island. 5. Nail the quarter round in place with a pneumatic brad nailer. (1 ¼ nails). Install Quarter Round at Bath Vanities 6. Cut a piece of quarter round stained to match the cabinets to fit along the gaps between the flooring and the cabinets. Cover sides and front of each cabinet 7. Nail the quarter round in place with a pneumatic brad nailer. (1 ¼ nails). Kneewall Cap Install the Kneewall Caps 1. Create kneewall cap Use a piece of 1x8 S4S poplar or 5/4 engineered Dragon Trim to create the cap. Rip the cap to a width which is 2 wider than the kneewall. Smooth the cut edges with a sander. For horizontal caps, cut the cap to extend over the end of the wall by 1 and flush to the wall at the other end. When cutting out the cap, leave 1 ¼ extra material. Bevel the sides back to the wall. Cut out a U to fit to the wall. Scribe the cap to the wall. For diagonal caps, cut the wall end at an angle to fit flush to the wall. Cut the other end at the same angle with the bottom extending over the wall by Before installing the cap, sand it smooth with an orbital sander; then wipe it clean with a tack cloth. Once the board is sanded and clean, apply a coat of stain or paint based on the Home Owner s Selection sheet. See Handrails in the Painting chapter for details. 3. Install the kneewall cap using a pneumatic finish nailer (2 ½ nails). Make sure the cap is centered on the wall and tight against the vertical wall. 4. Install the cove molding under the kneewall cap. Cut pieces of molding to fit under the cap. Miter cut a 45 bevel into the bottom edges of the trim. Install the trim with a pneumatic finish nailer. 5. Fill the holes with putty. Sand smooth and apply final finish touchup. Handrails Install the Handrails 1. Install handrail brackets. June 2015 Doors and Trim 23-17

18 The top of the handrail must be between 32 to 36 from the nosing of the steps. Unless otherwise noted in the plans, set the top of the handrail at 34. The bottom screw hole in most brackets is 5 ¼ from the top of the handrail. Measure straight up from the nose of the bottom step 28 ¾ and make a mark. Adjust this measurement based on the size of the handrail bracket. Repeat this process for the top step. Snap a chalk line between the 2 marks. The bottom screw hole of all brackets will be positioned on this line. Using a stud finder locate framing lumber along this line for installation of brackets; place 1 close to the bottom; 1 close to the top and 1 every 6 in between. Plumb the brackets and attach with the screws provided. 2. Cut the handrail to length. Cut a 45 angle into the top end of the handrail. Place the handrail on the brackets and hold it in place with the top end directly above the nose of the top step; use a level to ensure the location. Mark the bottom of the handrail using a level to draw a plumb line from the nose of the bottom step. Cut a 45 angle at the point where the plumb line intersects the top of the railing. 3. Install handrail returns on each end of the handrail. Place the handrail on the brackets and hold in place with handrail centered on each bracket. Measure the distance from the front edge to the wall. This will be the length of the returns. Cut two (2) returns from the cut-off ends of handrail. Cut a 45 angle into the end of the cut-off piece; then cut the piece to length with a 90 angle. Glue the returns onto the handrail. The miter joint should be held tight until the glue sets. 4. Handrails can be either painted or stained based on the Home Owner s Selection sheet. See Handrails in the Painting chapter for details. 5. Once the paint or polyurethane is dry, set the handrail in place and mark the location of the screw holes on the bottom of the handrail. Remove the handrail and drill pilot holes at each mark. Attach the handrail with screws supplied. Install the screws with a manual screwdriver. Ensure the pilot holes are big enough. The brass screw heads can be easily ruined if too much force is applied. June 2015 Doors and Trim 23-18

19 Quality Assurance Checklist o Ensure all of the nail holes in the trim have been filled and painted. o Ensure the baseboard is nailed tight to the studs. June 2015 Doors and Trim 23-19