The project took place at the Anse Kerlan beach in the area adjacent to the Verlaque s property up to ex-le Voyageur Hotel.

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1 THE DYNAMICS OF A BEACH BY THE SMALL ISLANDS VOICE YOUTH (SIVY) OF PRS

2 Introduction The project took place at the Anse Kerlan beach in the area adjacent to the Verlaque s property up to ex-le Voyageur Hotel. This area has been for a long time under the attack of wave erosion, especially during the South-East Monsoon. But following the December tsunami in 2004 the situation has worsened, so much so that some of the PRS teachers living in that area decided to move out since they felt that now more than ever they were at the mercy of the mighty sea. For example, one testified that most of the time when high tide occurs and there are destructive waves, the water reaches as high as the first step of the house. Therefore being a group, which is eager to discover new things, want to contribute in the development of our community, put what we learn at school in practise we decided to carry out a mini-project in this area. The aim of the project was to collect information to assess the effect and rate of erosion. Information for the project was collected during three visits to the area and was collected over three sites along the coast. Site 1 was located about 3 metres away from Miss.Simiyu s house and next to the area where the trees start to grow. Not far from Site 1, on the left hand-side a barrier against erosion made out of big pieces of granitic rocks had been built. It basically consisted of granitic rocks being dumped on top of each. Site 2 was just opposite the next house found on the right-hand side of Miss.Simiyu s house and next to the area where the trees start to grow. Site 3 was further right, not too far from a headland and in the area where the trees start to grow. At Site 3 there was a coral reef.

3 The area of study had undergone dramatic but gradual changes over the years. For example, in the space of just five years the vegetation has been washed away by the sea as indicated in the picture, to its present day location. The amount of vegetation has also reduced. One resident of the area puts it this way, the area is now less bushy compared to how it was about five years ago. It is important to note that the vegetation was not removed by the tsunami. The tsunami though, has helped to change the gradient and shape of the beach and to make what was once grass-covered yards in front of the houses in the vicinity of Sites 2 and 3, areas completely covered by great depth of sand.

4 We hope that though the study was not carried out over a long period of time and did not involve the use of sophisticated equipments, it will help to shed some light on this dynamic environment. Collection of data During our visits we collected information about the: Gradient and shape of the beach Types of waves Coastal transportation, erosion and deposition Vegetation cover along the coast History of the dynamics of this coastal area To collect the information the following methods were used: Measurement: for the gradient (erosion), coastal transportation, types of waves Observation: for identifying shape of the beach, erosion, deposition, vegetation along the coast, types of waves Interviews: for the history of the dynamics of the area.

5 Measurement Gradient For measuring the gradient, that is the steepness of the beach, we used a home-made clinometer. This consisted of a large protractor, string and a piece of plasticine. The piece of plasticine was attached to the string, which in turn was tied to the protractor. Apart from the clinometer we also used two 1.5m wooden poles graded at every 50 cm. To measure the gradient, one student was required to stand at one end of the beach, which was next to the sea while another stood at the end nearer to the land. The clinometer was then placed at the 1.5m mark on the pole nearer to the sea. While looking at the 1.5m mark at the other pole the student adjusted the clinometer so that it was in line with his view of the 1.5m mark. Another student then took the reading of the gradient at the point where the string rested on the protractor.

6 Types of waves To measure the waves so as to identify whether they were constructive or destructive, a stopwatch was used. In the space of one minute we counted how many waves crashed on to the beach at the counting point. Coastal transportation (longshore drift) To measure longshore drift a corkscrew and stopwatch was used. The corkscrew, acting as the float, was thrown into the sea and in the space of five minutes we observed its movement, especially how it approached the beach and how it went back to the sea. Observation Shape of the beach, erosion, deposition, vegetation along the coast and types of waves. During our observation we compared the shape of the beach at the three sites. We looked out for visual evidences of erosion and deposition and factors leading to these activities

7 and we compared the three sites. As far as the vegetation is concerned we took note of the types and amount of vegetation and compared the three sites. By observing the swash (part of the wave crashing on to the beach) and backwash (part of the wave going back to the sea) and estimating the height of the wave we tried to identify the types of waves. Interviews This was carried out with some inhabitants of the area. No set of questions was prepared before hand. The three visits First Visit The first visit took place on the 17 th of June 2005, around 3 p.m. This was our first visit to the area. Through observation we saw that the beach was very steep though not high. There were destructive waves as we could observe waves with stronger backwash than swash and they were quite high. But the interested thing that was noticed was that in the area of the beach where the coral reef was present received waves of less intensity as the waves crashed onto to the barrier before reaching the beach. We saw that the yards in front of the houses were completely covered by sand more than one metre deep. Through an interview with an inhabitant of the area we learnt about how the vegetation has been washed away over the last five years, how prior to the tsunami the beach was very high, that it acted as a barrier thus preventing the waves from reaching the houses or their yards. Through that particular interview we were also informed about the fact that when high tide occurs the waves often reach as far as the first step of the houses. Second Visit This took place on Sunday 26 th June 2005 around 10 a.m. During this visit we measured the gradient, alongshore drift and we measured the types of waves using the timing method at the three sites. The results are shown in Figure 2 of the other section. We noticed that though the beach was steep its gradient had gone down since our first visit. We once again observed that the reef helped to reduce the strength of the waves crashing onto the beach. We also interviewed two other inhabitants of the area who pointed out

8 how over the years the beach has been gradually eroded. An inhabitant who has been living in the area for more than 35 years pointed out that even if some groynes had been built further left in relation to our sites of study, these have not helped to remedy the problem but on the contrary has helped to aggravate it. This he said was because the groynes were not long enough, big enough and too far apart. When the area immediate to the groyne was observed it was evident that there was little erosion there since the groyne was helping to reduce the strength of the waves and as well as helping sand accumulation to take place. He also pointed out that during tsunami they received a lot of damages with water going up to around 5 m in his house. We did not have the chance to interview other inhabitants because they were not available. Third Visit The third visit took place on the 2 nd of August 2005 around 3 p.m. We had planned to carry out some more measurements but unfortunately could not as it was high tide and the waves were crashing as high as the area where the vegetation started to grow. From observation we could identify that destructive waves were crashing onto the beach and that once again the area where there was the presence of the reef was receiving less impact. We also observed that the beach was much steeper compared to the time of the second visit. Presentation of data Types of waves Visit Destructive Waves Constructive waves Figure 1

9 Information collected during the second visits Site Gradient Wave type Longshore drift 1 12 Destructive (strong) 2 13 Destructive (strong) 3 10 Destructive (weak) Figure 2 Longshore Drift Sea 3 1 Direction of Float Float 2 1 Position of float Beach Figure 3

10 Gradient on second visit Gradient Site 1 Site 2 Site 3 Sites Figure 4 Beach material identified during the three visits from high-water mark to low-water mark High Water Mark Finer sand Mixture of fine sand, small pieces of corals, gravel Large pieces of corals, gravel, sand Figure 4 Low water Mark Figure 5

11 Conclusion and recommendations Through this small-scale study the following can be concluded: This environment is forever changing due to wave erosion, deposition and transportation. This area is often subjected to destructive waves and even when it is calm the waves are still strong. When high tide occurs the waves crashes too near the homes. The vegetation cover is not enough to help reduce the effect of wave erosion or to act as a barrier to prevent the waves from moving further inland. The planting of trees alone will not be enough. Other measures have to be implemented first so as to reduce the strength of the waves before it crashes on the beach. The reef is helping to reduce the strength (magnitude) of the waves. The groynes are contributing in the process of erosion. The inhabitants are at great risk. We therefore recommend the following: 1. The Ministry of Environment and Marine Resources carry out a more detailed study in order to observe the dynamics of the environment during the North West and South East Monsoons. 2. The SIVY continue to study the area. 3. While recognising the possible negative impacts that some of these measures might have on the environment in terms of visual pollution, affecting the habitat of marine life and the financial cost associated with them we recommend that the following measures be considered for implementation: More trees like coconut are planted as this will help to hold the sand particles together at the same time as preventing the waves from moving further inland.

12 More groynes have to be built, as presently they are too far apart. This will help to trap sand in more areas unlike presently where sand is trapped in few places. The groynes need to be larger and longer in order to greatly reflect wave energy. Building of undercurrent stabilisers. This involves building geotextile tubes underwater perpendicular to the shoreline. These tubes are filled in place with concrete or sand and they decrease in width as they get further into the sea unlike the groynes. The tubes will help to reduce wave energy and turbulence, thus making the area calmer. This will help accumulation of sand and make the area near the shore shallow. This measure will not deprive any area of sand as the sand is coming offshore.

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