INDEX. 1. TAHE Color options for professional colorist. 2. How do we see color? 3. Structure of the hair. 4. Options and Color Tools. 5.
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2 INDEX 1. TAHE Color options for professional colorist. 2. How do we see color? 3. Structure of the hair 4. Options and Color Tools 5. Peroxides 6. Tonal scale 7. Scale of shades 8. Lumière / Natural Colour 10M Express / Botanic Gold 9. Analysis of hair 10. Preparation of TAHE dye formulations 11. Using TAHE colorations 12. Gray coverage 13. Silver Blond / Silver Blond Plus / Botanic Deco - bleaching powder 14. Extreme Colour 15. Ionic by Lumière
3 1. TAHE Color options for professional colorist. * Permanent Coloration Natural Colour 10M Express 76 Colors 60ml. (2.03 fl.oz) Lumière 107 Colors 100ml. (3,38 fl.oz) * Permanent Coloration Ammonia Free Botanic Gold 32 Colors 100ml. (3,38 fl.oz) * Contrast Color Extreme Colour 5 Colors 60ml (2,03 fl.oz) * Color Mask Colors Ionic by Lumière 12 Colors+ 1 Nutritive Shampoo 100 ml. * Keratin with Pigment Revival 11 Colors + 1 Transparente 35ml. * Powder Decoloration Silver Blond 500grs (17,60 fl.oz) Silver Blond Plus 500grs (17,60 fl.oz) Botanic Ammonia Free 500grs (17,60 fl.oz)
4 2. How do we see color? All our color visions are the result of light. The basis of our work is in how light is refracted through a prism, resulting in the RED, ORANGE, YELLOW, GREEN, BLUE AND PURPLE colors. These 6 colors are further reduced to the PRIMARY COLORS, which are: YELLOW, BLUE AND RED. All you pretend to do with the color comes down to this, since all colors contain some PRIMARY color. Once you have understood the PRIMARY colors, you're on your way to understand what the COLOR itself. Then we have the SECONDARY COLORS, which are: ORANGE, GREEN AND PURPLE. Are obtained by mixing primary colors in equal parts. A third group of colors, although these are not possible to be seen through the prism, and are TERTIARY colors. The TERTIARY COLORS are obtained by mixing a color with one PRIMARY SECONDARY, resulting in the following colors: YELLOW ORANGE, NARANJAROJO, RED-PURPLE, BLUE-PURPLE, BLUE-GREEN and YELLOW-GREEN. Finally, all other colors are formed by mixing so, whether provided or not, the primary, secondary and tertiary colors. The largest concentration is in BLACK color, and the lowest in WHITE.
5 3. Structure of the hair Is the protective surface of the hair and is formed by a layer of cells like the scales of a fish. From 6-11 Inter-linked cuticles around each hair. These are transparent and formed along the hair a layer or flat surface, which is conducive to reflect light. Is formed by elongated cells of fibrillar structure (micro-fibrillar and fibrillar macro) which form 80% of the hair. The cortex determines the thickness, strength and elasticity of hair. Here is where all natural hair color, in the form of pigments composed of tiny granules of melanin (melanin). At the same time are divided into two groups: granular pigment (eumelanin), which give hair dark colors; and diffuse pigment (pheomelanin), which give the clear hair colors. These pigments shine through the cuticle and give the hair the color tone. Little is yet known about the medulla. This forms the central part of the hair and is composed of air-filled cavities. We inherit the color of our hair from our parents. The real color and tone is the result of several factors: Eumelanina / Feomelanina / Melanin mixed / The density of melanin / The location of melanin. Melanin Eumelanina: BLACK, BROWN and RED. Melanin Feomelanina: YELLOW, RED-YELLOW and REDDISH BLONDE. Contains both melanin mixed as Feomelanina Eumelanina. This mixture creates Reddish Reddish Brown and Blond. The natural color is formed in cells called melanocytes. These cells are located in the matrix Germinal follicle.
6 4. Options and color tools (1 / 2) TYPES OF HAIR COLORATIONS: Different manufacturers give different names to their products. COLORATION TAHE COLOR PROPERTIES DURATION 1- Temporal color It sticks to the cuticle It goes with the washes Only adds pigment and corrects 2 3 washes 2- Color mask 3- Permanent color Unmixed. Do not light up, only adds pigment Dye penetrant lights up and adds pigment Mixed with peroxide 4 15 washes Permanent 4- Color contrast Dye penetrant, maximum light up and adds pigment. Mixed with peroxide Permanent 1 - Temporary Color (Revival) Temporary color becomes 1 to 3 washes. It is a treatment that enhances the color moderately. 2 - Color Mask (Ionic by Lumière) The semi-permanent colors contain no peroxide. These can only dark or light 1 tone. It last 2-4 weeks, depending on the condition of hair and how often you wash. It is a direct treatment with pigments at ph 3.5.
7 4. Options and color tools (2 / 2) 3 - Permanent Color (Natural Colour 10M Express / Lumière) Permanent color can lighten and deposit color. This is always mixed with hydrogen peroxide. The gray coverage is 100%. The super-lightening colors, as well as its name suggests, clear more than normal permanent colors. Permanent color FREE AMMONIA (Botanic Gold) Do not confuse this coloration with a tone on tone or vegetable color. Ammonia has been replaced by another alkalizing called "monoetalonamina" which gives this coloration treating a result. This is a color with pigmentation and oxidation. 4 - Contrast color (Extreme Colour) The color contrast is an oxidation dye cream. This has a great ability to lighten up to 7 tones, and also deposit pigments to create vibrant colors in dark, natural or dyed hair, resulting in a permanent effect. Bleaches (Silver Blond / Silver Blond Plus / Botanic without ammonia) Bleaching have different strengths and shapes. There are normally three types: powder, cream, and liquid (generally having a consistency like oil). Lightening & Enhancer creams are often the least strong. The bleaching powder are often the most lightening. Some bleaches, such as TAHE, can be applied on the scalp, with a maximum of 20 to 30 vol recommendation (6-9%) to the scalp. For maximum clarification it is recommended to mix the bleach with hydrogen in a
8 5. Peroxide (1 / 2) When hydrogen peroxide (H2O2), it is known as an oxidizing agent, one of its purposes is to inflate the color molecule after penetration; another of its purposes is to contribute to discoloration of hair. Hydrogen peroxide is available in separate volumes. Here's an example of what it means 20 volumes. In a given amount of water, there are 20 times the normal amount of oxygen: this is what makes 20 volume peroxide. WHAT IS THE IMPACT OF THE VOLUMES OR THE PERCENTAGE OF HYDROGEN PEROXIDE TO THE LIGHTNING? A simple example: The hydrogen is a fuel for color, like gasoline is a fuel for the car. The higher the octane of gasoline, the better the car engine works. Similarly, the higher the volume of peroxide that is used with the color, the stronger the enlightenment capacity / coverage. WHY SHOULD YOU USE 30 VOL WITH LUMIERE & 10 M? Lumière and 10M Express pigments are formulated with micro-particles and contains many protective cosmetology (such as Argan Oil and Keratin). We need extra support to open cuticle and thus get the full potential of color. At least 50% of the chances of succeeding with dye formulations are attributed to the type, quantity and strength of peroxide. TAHE peroxides are created with one purpose: to help TAHE coloration reach their full potential. The use of any other oxygenated will limit the success.
9 5. Peroxide (2 / 2 ) Peroxides are not all equal. Each brand manufactures their own peroxide to be compatible with their dye systems. Some manufacturers, like TAHE have special peroxides for ammonia free dye. PEROXIDE. Thin and thick hair: Are there differences in the operation of the hydrogen on thin hair and thick hair? Definitely! Here's an example of how it can affect the result: When we light a fire in the fireplace we use first pieces of fine wood and flat, not thick trunks, why?... Because of the surface. As much surface is exposed, the faster will be the penetration. The thicker the hair, the harder it will be to develop the dye and oxygenated. On the other hand, thiner the hair, the easier it will be to develop the color. So, if what you want is to lift up the shade of hair from level 6 to level 9, usually while finer the hair easier it will get.
10 6. Tonal scale To understand the numbering system for Natural Colour 10M Express / Lumière / Botanic Gold: TAHE uses the international system of color: black dark brown medium brown light brown dark blond medium blond light blonde very light blond platinum blonde Use this system to determine the NATURAL BASE
11 7. Scale of shades TAHE uses the international numbering system shades. All TAHE colors are a combination of these numbers. natural Natural ash ash pearl golden copper mahogany red violet
12 8. Natural Colour 10M Express / Lumière / Botanic Gold ( 1 / 8 ) The large experience of TAHE in capillary coloring and the constant research of the team allowed us to introduce a new line: NATURAL COLOUR EXPRESS. It is based on what has been called ST SYSTEM, getting in just 10 minutes exceptional results in coverage of gray hair, hair treatment and duration of the color.
13 8. Natural Colour 10M Express / Lumière / Botanic Gold ( 2 / 8 ) The Permanent dye LUMIÈRE line consists of: colors spread in compound ranges Bases, cold Brown, Brown Warm, Golden, Brass, Red, Violets, Ash, Beiges, Pearls and Superaclarantes. - 7 color Fondant extra-opaque in bed Bases, Dorados and Ashes. - 1 Fluid Protector Express Lumière skin. Because of the special characteristics of the formulation of Lumière Express, for best performance, always mix with Peroxide 30 volumes. Results: - MORE Bright colors. - MAYOR revelation of the pigments. RANGES LUMIÈRE EXPRESS: * BASES (1/3/4/5/6/7/8/9/10) - Warm shade. - Ideal for mixing with all the nuances of the colorchart. - For maximum gray coverage and intensity of color, use Peroxide 30 volumes. * BASES COLD (4.0 /5.0 / 6.0 / 7.0 / 8.0 / 9.0 / 10.0) - Slightly cold shade. - Can be mixed with all the nuances of the colorchart. - For maximum gray coverage and intensity of color, use Peroxide 30 volumes.
14 8. Natural Colour 10M Express / Lumière / Botanic Gold ( 3 / 8 ) * GOLDEN BASES (In all cases, for maximum gray coverage and color intensity, use 30 volumes Peroxide) (6.03 / 7.03 / 8.03 / 9. 03) - Natural golden shade. (4.3 / 5.3 / 6.3 / 7.3 / 8.3 / 9.3) - Deep golden shade. (5.33) - Golden-brown shade * COOPER - In cases of very difficult gray, mixed with warm or golden Bases Bases. - For maximum gray coverage and intensity of color, use Peroxide 30 volumes. * RED & CHESTNUT: - In cases of very difficult gray, mixed with warm or golden bases. - For maximum gray coverage and intensity of color, use Peroxide 30 volumes. * WARM BEIGE BROWN: - In cases of very difficult gray, mixed with warm or golden bases. - For maximum gray coverage and intensity of color, use Peroxide 30 volumes. * COLD BROWN BEIGE: - In cases of very difficult gray, mixed with cold bases. - For maximum gray coverage and intensity of color, use Peroxide 30 volumes.
15 8. Natural Colour 10M Express / Lumière / Botanic Gold ( 4 / 8 ) * CHOCOLATES: - For maximum gray coverage and intensity of color, use peroxide 30 volumes. * PEARLS: (9.2) - Slightly pearly shades. - Can be used directly on gray hair. - For optimum coverage, mix with cold Base (9.0) or Base ash (9.11). - For maximum gray coverage and intensity of color, use Peroxide 30 volumes. - Especially for getting bright blonde tones (Mix Peroxide 30 volumes). (9.22) - Intense pearl shade. - It is not recommended to apply directly to gray hair. - Especially indicated for getting bright blonde tones (Mix Peroxide 30 volumes). - For optimum coverage, mix with cold Base (9.0) or Base ash (9.11). - Ideal for correcting golden shades. * VIOLET: - Very intense shades. - For maximum gray coverage and intensity of color, use Peroxide 30 volumes. * BASES ASHES: (5.11 / 7.11 / 9.11) - Cold shades (soft ash). - In gray hair or blonde shades DOES NOT LEAVE ash / green unwanted shades. (6.1 / 7.1 / 8.1 / 9.1) - Gray coverage 60% - For optimal gray coverage, mix with cold Bases (0) - Cold shades (heavy ash). Ideal for correcting orange-red shades. - Indicated to correct natural blond on dark bases. - Use Peroxide of 30 or 40 volumes.
16 8. Natural Colour 10M Express / Lumière / Botanic Gold ( 5 / 8 ) * SUPER-lightening: - Lights up from 4 to 5 tones. - Low % of ammonia. - In blond hair with bands due successive rinsing processes, has great power to correct these bands. - For maximum color rinse, use Peroxide 40 volumes. - Mix Exposure time: 45 minutes. (100 / / 102) - Gold and natural-gold shades. - Ideal for hair with gray hair that we want to light up. - The tone 100 can be used as shade regulator with other super-lightening. (100.01) - Natural ash shade. - It can be applied in gray and porous blond smooth without unwanted pigmentation. - Ideal for shading highlights. (111/101) - Cold shades. - These are the correctors, providing Nordic shades. - Be particularly careful with gray and blond hair porous to prevent unwanted pigmentation. * Fondant: - Extra-coverage 100% on gray hair. - 1/4 of darker tone. - Warm shade.
17 8. Natural Colour 10M Express / Lumière / Botanic Gold ( 6 / 8 ) Is there any way to prolong the effects of Lumière colour at home? Maintain and prolong the effects of an impeccable colour with Lumière Colour Care, a range made up of a cream shampoo, a conditioning mask and a protective colour cure, which act on the hair to deeply fix colour intensity and brilliance. For unmatched shine and softness, from a formulation based on trionic keratin and argan oil. COLOUR PROTECTION LUMIÈRE CREAM SHAMPOO. LUMIÈRE TRIONIC KERATIN AND ARGAN OIL. Cleansing cream, to help damaged or bleached hair to retain colour as vibrant as the day it was applied. Protects colour and strengthens hair. Gives shine, softness, and infinite texture, due to the replenishing effect of the trionic keratin technology and argan oil. CARE COLOUR CONDITIONING MASK. Intense nutrition enriched with argan oil and trionic keratin. Infinite shine, intense softness and reconstructed texture. POST-COLOUR PROTECTIVE CURE. TRIONIC KERATIN AND ARGAN OIL. Intensi ve cure and colour protection for hair, rich in trionic keratin and argan oil. Protects the hair s fibres, creating an film that combines with the hair s natural keratin to preserve the interior pigments. Leaves hair spectacularly shiny.
18 8. Natural Colour 10M Express / Lumière / Botanic Gold ( 7 / 8 ) The BOTANIC GOLD line is an ammonia free permanent dye and includes: - 36 tones, 2 of them super-lighteners. - With Botanic Gold we work the bases and the shades with the same mixing as Lumière. Given the particular of the formulation of BOTANIC GOLD ammonia free we always recommend to combien with BOTANIC GOLD peroxide, in order to get the best results. To obtain a Tone on Tone, use Oxidant low volume results: - Brighter colors. - Increased disclosure of the pigments. * BASES (1/4/5/6/7/8/9): - Warm shades. - Ideal for mixing with all the shades of the colochart * COLD BROWN (7.23 / 6.13): - 60% coverage of gray hair. - In cases of gray, always mix with Base * WARM BROWN (6.31 / 5.34): - In cases of very difficult gray, mix with Bases. * GOLD (7.23): - Natural golden shades * COOPER (7.46): - In cases of very difficult gray, mix with Bases. * RED mahogany (6.65): - In cases of very difficult gray, mix with Bases.
19 8. Natural Colour 10M Express / Lumière / Botanic Gold ( 8 / 8 ) With TAHE, the formulation is simple, fast and accurate through the use of this simple numerical system you can create the desired color. Once learned the numerical system it can be used for all options Tahe Color: Natural Colour 10M Express, Lumiere and Botanic Gold. Explaining the numeral system: 1. 1st # BEFORE dot = Height of tone color. 2. 1st # AFTER dot = Dominant tone. 3. 2nd # AFTER the dot = Secondary tone. In the example: = Light Blonde..3 = Two golden parts.32 = There is 1 part called Pearl (.32 = beige) Note: The dominant tone has a ratio of 2:1 with the secondary tone, unless otherwise specified. Explaining of numeral system: 1. 1st # BEFORE dot = Height of tone color. 2. 1st # AFTER point = Tone dominant. 3. 2nd # AFTER the secondary = Tone. In the example: = Medium Blond..4 = 2 copper parts..44 = 1 additional part of copper,.44 meaning also copper with intense tone. Note: When the numbers after the point are the two equal, call a more intense value than the tone.
20 9. Analysis of hair CONSULTATION Understand what the customer really wants! We all have different perception of a color. A personal opinion does not mean right or wrong. If the customer sees red in a neutral tone, well, do not forget this factor when formulating. The customer must show you what he/she want. Use any tool to help you to specify the desired result. Inform the customer how to maintain color. REGISTRATION List things that are important while talking with the customer. Do not wait or you can forget something important. RESULTS These can be categorized in the short-term and long final plazo. Es color today? Or should we add streaks in the future? Perhaps an even more red for next time? QUALITY Do not do it if you do not have enough time to do it right. KEY QUESTIONS: 1. Do I know what the customer really wants? 2. Do I have all the products I need? 3. Do I have the knowledge to do this correctly on the first try? 4. Can I fix it? 5. Have I considered all the factors that I can control? 6. What color should I use? (semi-permanent, permanent, tone / tone /, Superlift, contrast, etc..? 7. What volume of hydrogen peroxide? 8. Do you need more than one formula? 9. What type of application? 10. For how long?
21 10. Preparation of TAHE dye formulations - Diagnose what TAHE color needs be used (Lumière, 10M Express, Botanic Gold). - Determine the volume of peroxide that you will need, depending if the hair is dyed, natural or % of gray. - Apply the "color chart" from roots to the ends. - Determine the exposure time:
22 11. Using TAHE colorations ( 1 / 2 ) * You should always measure in a weighing scales. * Always use TAHE Peroxides. * Lumiere and Botanic Gold: 1 part dye / 1 part peroxide. Super-lightening: 1 part dye / 2 parts peroxide. APPLICATION ON VIRGIN HAIR - Make a sensitivity test. - Divide the hair into sections to work. - Apply the dye in sections half a centimeter. - Start the application half centimiter away from the scalp. - Continue until covering the entire area. - Leave on for minutes. - Re-mix the formula. - Apply at the roots and extend until the rest of the hair. - Leave on for minutes. TOUCH OF ESTATE - Divide the hair into sections to work. - Apply dye in sections of half centimeter. - Ensure that the dye completely cover the roots. - Leave on for minutes. - The exposure time depends on the porosity. NOTE: For super-lighteners, reds and grays are recommended an exposure time of minutes.
23 11. Using TAHE colorations ( 2 / 2 ) TO TERMINATE THE IMPLEMENTATION OF THE DYE - In the wash unit, massage the contour of the hair, taking care not to touch with water to facilitate the removal of dyes on the skin and hair. - Apply a small amount of water and continue with the massage. - Wash with TAHE Nature of Benefit Shampoo. - Rinse. - If necessary, wash twice. - Apply Tahe Nutritherm mask, leave about 3 minutes. and rinse.
24 12. Gray hair coverage The gray Bases, Bases.0 & Extra-coverage 00 (Fondant) cover 100% of gray. When using Reds, Coppers & Violets will cover 100% gray. Rarely you will need to add the range of Bases or Fondant (use also if you want to avoid a intense color). Where a maximum gray coverage needed, it is recommended to add Fondant Bases (0.0) Basis for coverage of neutral shades. Bases.0 for cold coverage. NOTE: It is important to put dye on roots, since their low ammonia levels and its high content of protective cosmetology (Keratin, Liquid Gold,...)
25 13. Silver Blond / Silver Blond Plus / Botanic Deco - Bleaching powder - Tahe have different bleaching options, all of them are free of dust emissions. The difference between Silver Blond and Silver Blond Plus is that more indicated for hair and sensitive scalp. With Botanic Deco we can work on more sensitive hair, getting the same results. FEATURES Perfect for aluminum foil. Perfect for special effects Free of dust emissions. Pleasant fragrance. Treating lightening and easy to control. Mix: 1 Part Bleach + 1 part peroxide for further lightening. Exposure time: 45 minutes. It can be applied with heat (not on the scalp). OTHER MIXTURE OF SILVER BLOND, BLOND PLUS SILVER DECO AND BOTANIC (1 part bleach + 1 part peroxide) - maximum rinse (1 part bleach + 2 part peroxide) - rinsing high (1 part bleach + 3 part peroxide) - controlled rinsing
26 The exposure time is: minutes without heating. 15 minutes with application of heat. WHAT IS EXTREME COLOUR? It is an oxidation color of with the ability of creating without bleaching. You can light up to: 7 levels in natural hair - from level 1 (black) to a level 5 (light brown) 5 levels in dyed hair - from level 4 (medium brown), up to Level 7 (Blonde medium). Extreme Colour is an oxidation dye, it contains ammonia. DO NOT COVER GRAY. The ability to clarify tones depends on: 1. The strength of the peroxide. 2. The type of hair: natural or dyed. 3. The porosity. 4. The base level (NB). We suggest that Extreme Colour is used for highlights or similar techniques, partial coloration or sections. Not to be used as a dye for the hair. Extreme Colour causes no problems when applied directly to the scalp.
27 14. Extreme Colour with T.hc technology ( 2 / 2 ) APPLICATION 1 - Make a sensitivity test (if you're applying to the scalp). 2 - Make sections to be colored. 3 - Apply Extreme color from root to ends. TIPS: On natural hair = 10 vol (3%), 20 vol (6%), 30 vol (9%) or 40 vol (12%) will give a good result. On dyed hair = We recommend 30 vol. (9%) or 40 vol. (12%) for optimum results. Exposure time is minutes without heat and minutes with heat. 4 - Massage all the hair (from root to tip) in the washing area. 5 - Rinse the color with warm water until it runs clear. 6 - Wash with TAHE CLEANSING SHAMPOO & rinse 7 - Wash again (if necessary) with TAHE BENEFIT SHAMPOO & rinse 8 - Apply a conditioner if needed ONLY IN THE ROOTS 1 - Apply Extreme Colour only in the roots. 2 - Wash the hair 3 - If the ends are loosing the intense color, use IONIC (will be explained next) Exposure time is minutes without heat and minutes with heat.
28 15. Ionic by Lumière. Color mask. ( 1 / 3 ) - 12 color format in 100ml. - 1 nourishing Shampoo 100ml. - Colored Mask - No Peroxide - No ammonia. No alcohol. - Protects and nourishes the natural structure and integrity of the hair. - Great for medium and ends, reconstructs and enhances the color. Exposure time: 10 minutes. COLORS BLACK BROWN LIGHT BROWN SAND BLOND PEARL BLOND TRANSPARENT COPPER RED RED FIRE VIOLET RED VIOLET BLUE WHAT IS IONIC by LUMIÈRE? Colored hair mask with acid ph that enhances the action of the oxidation colors. TAHE exclusive formulation, rich in plant extracts (Salvia officinalis, Citric Acid, Bisabolol, Presea Gratísima and Pro-Vitamin B5), making IONIC highly nourishing and moisturizing product. IN WHAT TYPES OF HAIR CAN BE USED? Due to its formulation, IONIC only acts on chemically processed hair (tint, tone / tone, highlights, bleaching, perming, contrast color, super-lighteners and hair relaxers).
29 15. Ionic by Lumière. Color mask. ( 2 / 3 ) WHEN YOU CAN USE IONIC? As often as you want. The more IONIC is applyed, the softer will be the hair. WHAT EFFECT DOES IONIC IN A DAMAGED HAIR AND EXCESSIVE POROUS? The more damaged and porous is the hair, the greater the effect and durability od it. In most of the cases, IONIC will last longer on damaged hair. IONIC contains no peroxide or ammonia, or alcohol.
30 15. Ionic by Lumière. Color mask. ( 3 / 3 ) APPLICATION a) IMPORTANT: Use gloves. Apply on clean and wet hair. Choose an IONIC color and apply from roots to ends with brush and bowl. Spread with a comb. Do not touch the scalp (especially when working with intense colors). Exposure time: 10 minutes. b) Rinse with warm water. Wash with IONIC shampoo (*). (*) With IONIC Transparent, Pearl and Rubio Rubio Arena NO need OF shampoo. Rinse with water only. IMPORTANT Do not cover gray, or light tones. In extremely porous hair ends perform color test, as it can darken (we recommend protecting with IONIC Transparent). Avoid contact of this product with the skin to keep clean. Possible to remove use alcohol on the skin. Wear gloves. Do not mix with color oxidation. It contains no peroxide or ammonia or alcohol. Does not contain parabens.
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