Kit Replacement for WMS 10 Opto board part numbers A-15430, A-20246, A as used in:

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1 Kit Replacement for WMS 10 Opto board part numbers A-15430, A-20246, A as used in: Bram Stokers Dracula Dr. Who Indiana Jones Pinball Circus Popeye Cactus Canyon Corvette Monster Bash Medival Madness Revenge From Mars SafeCracker Star Wars Eposode 1 (Pinball 2000) Shadow World Cup Soccer All parts of this manual including pictures, schematics & text are Homepin.com and are not to be reproduced for distribution. You may print this manual for your own use only. The words Bally, 'Williams' and WMS are used to describe various things in the manual and are the property of the respective owners. In addition to the parts supplied in this kit you will need a temperature controlled soldering iron with some fine resin cored solder, a pair of small side cutters & small pliers. Nothing else should be required.

2 NOTE: Where polarised components are to be installed you will see the following symbol: Parts indicated in that step MUST be inserted the correct way around. (1) First ensure all parts have been included in your kit. Take this opportunity to familiarise yourself with each part. It's a good idea to print the circuit diagram for reference as you are building. (2) Start by determining if your finished board requires the extra side panels for mounting or if it will be mounted using the four holes and spacers. The boards are both identical electrically but are mounted differently in various models of pinball machines. The picture on the left (below) shows the two mounting styles for this board. If your machine has the board mounted vertically it will need the extra side panels and you will need to drill out the rivets and reuse the original metal mounting brackets. These can be fixed to the new PCB (later, after assembly) using 3mm nuts and bolts or pop rivets if you like. If you don't need these extra panels they can be carefully snapped off along the line of holes in the board. We use a small adjustable spanner as it allows you to put the 'snapping force' right at the drilled line. This is illustrated in the picture on the right (below).

3 DO NOT use excessive solder on any parts as the PCB is double sided and has plated through holes. The solder will wick very well through the holes and anchor the parts using the smallest amount of solder. Trim the excess leads as required. (3) Fit the three IC sockets ensuring the correct orientation. Also fit diodes D8 & D9 note the striped end (cathode) faces towards connector J3 (to the left in the picture and is clearly marked on the board) - trim the excess leads as required.

4 (4) Now the rest of the diodes can be installed they ALL mount in the opposite direction to D8 & 9 with their cathodes facing right (again, clearly marked on the board). (5) Next fit R22, 1K2Ω resistor (brown-red-red) as shown in the picture below. The resistors have no polarity but, in order for the finished board to look neat, it is a good idea to decide on a 'way around' and stick to that for the build.

5 (6) Next we can fit R8 through to R21 all are 2KΩ (red-black-red). (7) Then the remaining 2KΩ resistors R23, 24, 26, 27, 29 & 30 (8) After those we can fit the 2 x 10KΩ resistors (brown-black-orange) R37 & R38

6 (9) The three 22KΩ (red-red-orange) R33, 34, 36 are next. These can be a little difficult to read the colours on sometimes if in doubt use a multimeter to prove their resistance value. (10) Next the 5 x 100KΩ (brown-black-yellow) resistors in positions R32, 35, 39, 40, 41 completes the small resistor installation.

7 (11) Let's move on to the 3 x 0.01uF capacitors in positions C2, 3, 4. These are most likely yellow as shown in the picture but can be any colour. (12) Now the 'power available' LED. Slide the plastic spacer over the legs and insert into the PCB with the shortest lead in the top hole, the hole closest to the flat marking on the PCB this is the cathode of the LED. (13) Now we can fit the only electrolytic capacitor to position C1 noting the negative lead (marked on the body of the capacitor) faces the outside of the board. We can fit the six connectors now. The longest one, J3 can sometimes be a little more difficult than the others to get flush on the board due to its length but it will go sometimes it's necessary to bend a couple

8 of the legs straight after soldering in J3. Use caution when soldering these connectors as they can melt very easily. Hold them down firmly on the board and ensure they are square tack one or two legs in place and confirm the connector is square and flush on the board before soldering all remaining pins. (14) Bend the legs of the 270Ω 3Watt resistors so they fit nicely between the mounting hole spacing using small pliers. Slide a brass eyelet over the legs with the bell facing away from the resistor body. On R7, R28 and R31 we need to fit a fibre washer to ensure that the brass spacer doesn't touch the tracks on the PCB. This is very unlikely but better to make certain it can't happen by fitting the washers as shown on the top legs of R7 & R28 and the bottom leg of R31.

9 (15) Fit the rest of the 3W resistors using the brass eyelet spacers as shown. (16) Lastly we can fit the three LM339 IC's. Take care as they can be a bit tricky to fit into turned pin sockets without bending legs. CONGRATULATIONS! You now have a completed, brand new 10 Opto board ready to see another 20 years of service. We strongly advise you ask a friend to look over your work before powering up the board. But as a minimum, please confirm the correct polarity of all diodes, IC's, the LED and C1 and have a careful look over the board for shorts or solder splashes.

10 oooooo