Tool list: Supplies:

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1 Tool list: Wire cutters Wire strippers ¼ ratchet w/ 10mm deep socket Phillips screwdriver X-acto knife Needle nose pliers (optional) Crescent wrench (optional) Digital meter (optional) Soldering iron (optional) Supplies: Electrical tape Electrical crimp-on connector Zipties Metal coat hanger Heat shrink tubing (optional) (4) Bussman ATM fuse taps (optional) Bussman ATM fuses (optional) Start by deciding where you want to mount the gauge. I mounted mine on the right side of the steering column with the universal mount that came with the gauge. This will determine where the wiring will be run.

2 I decided to flatten the gauge mount to reduce the height. I used a crescent wrench and needle-nose pliers to carefully bend it flat. Then I used a flat piece of metal and a hammer to flatten out the remaining bends while the bracket was on the floor.

3 The end result is below-

4 I then bent the back tab down and the sides slightly to follow the contour of the steering column like this-

5 I painted the base semi-gloss black to match the plastic (I had some left from my grille and fog surrounds). I used the double-stick tape included with the gauge to adhere it. (I might suggest to use some that is slightly thicker.) It is best to mount the gauge after the wires are run.

6 To wire the power cable, I decided to use Bussman ATM fuse taps as shown below. They were kinda expensive at AutoZone so shop around. You will need (4) and a pack of assorted ATM fuses (really 5A fuses are all you need). You could also merely wrap the wire around one side of the fuse spade and re-insert into the fuse block. I tend to put more time into making good connections as I hate to chase electrical issues.

7 I did not use the crimp connector that came on the Bussman fuse taps. I cut these off and soldered the wires together and used shrink tubing. The ground wire I used a crimp connector but soldered a piece of heavier gauge wire to the ground as the stock wiring is only 24 ga.

8 I ran the wires down through the dash, through a cable guide to the left of the fuse box and found a place to connect the ground wire. The location I chose was not the easiest to attach but I wanted a good metal-to-metal connection. Then I used a few pieces of electrical tape across the bottom of the cable guide to hold the wires in place.

9 In order for the fuse taps to work, you must use (2) fuses in each. The fuse holder nearest to the spades gets the fuse that you will remove from the fuse block and the fuse holder nearest to the wire can get a 5A (I used the same rating of fuse as the stock location as that is what I had).

10

11 Install all of the fuses, connect the ground wire and here is the diagram of how I connected the wires. I tried other fuse locations that others suggested but my gauge would not light correctly until I used these-

12 I then coiled up the spare wire since I kept the pigtails full length. I may want to relocate the gauge to the center of the dash in the future if I get other gauges. I tie-wrapped the coil to keep things neat underneath.

13 I removed the factory gauge bezel to make the wire runs neater to my location on the steering column. If you choose to mount the gauge elsewhere, then you may have to come up with your own routing. Pull outward on the bezel with two hands as shown carefully. There are no screws holding the bezel and gauge surround on; these 2 pieces will come off together. (I was holding it with one hand while I took this picture.)

14 Once the bezel and surround is off, unscrew the gauge cluster. There are two screws on the top. I merely pushed it out the way so that I could run the wires in the direction of the arrow as shown.

15 Okay, now onto installing the pressure transducer, tubing, and running that wiring into the car. You will need to remove the intercooler. There are 4 bolts that hold it on and two hose clamps. I won t go into detail here. Remove the hose from the BPV, cut it, and install the brass T as shown in the photo. I ziptied all connections to ensure they do not pop off with boost. Next you will want to fish the wiring back into the car before running the tubing to the T. You want as little tubing length as possible so the transducer has to be as close to the T. Depending on the location of your gauge in the car, you may need more or less of this wire inside to reach so that is why I did this step first.

16 Locate the grommet on the firewall 6 to the left of the clutch reservoir and just to the right of the dogbone. In this pic, I have already removed it and inserted a screwdriver. I used an X-acto knife to cut the insulation and felt inside to a large enough diameter to fish the wire through. I also cut a slit in the grommet and pulled the wire through it before I fished it into the car. You will want to replace this grommet after to keep water out.

17 If you stick your finger in, you will feel an obstruction about ½ in. Not to worry, we will avoid it. I used a metal coat hanger with a slight bend to the tip and taped the wire end to it as shown here.

18 Then insert the hanger into the hole down and to the right at about 4-5 o clock position. When you have it lined up correctly, the wire will insert fairly easily. Keep feeding it in until you can see the tip in the car near the gas pedal like this- Untape the wire and fish it up through the dash and out under the gauge cluster wire the power wire. Once you have enough length pulled into the car, tape the wires onto the steering column with enough slack to connect to the gauge later.

19 Now it s back to the engine bay. Run the wiring along the firewall and through the existing cable clip as shown. The transducer ended up over near the brake booster. Use zipties to hold in place.

20 Run the tubing over to the T and cut to length. Install and ziptie.

21 Now back to the gauge. Reinstall the factory cluster and surround and bezel. Mount the gauge and connect the wires. This is how mine looks from the side- Start the car, check the operation, and set your warning light as described on the box. Enjoy! The location I chose only hides the VDC and tire warning lights. When sitting in the seat, I can still see the entire tach. These photos are not quite the correct angle.

22 Daytime with car off-

23 Night with lights on. My camera makes the gauge look more red and the cluster more orange. In reality, they are very, very close in color.

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