Project 2: Making a Hanging Drawer & Shelf

Transcription

1 Project 2: Making a Hanging Drawer & Shelf Your second project is to construct a Hanging Drawer and Shelf, which includes using skills and tools from the first project. It also includes many new skills, including measurement, several different types of joinery, reading a set of plans and a cut list, and using some hand tools. Be sure to put your name & block # on all your parts with a pencil throughout the project 1. First, to make sure all of our pieces are the same thickness, head to the Timesaver and run them through once, bringing them to exactly 5/8 thick. 1.Head to the miter saw or table saw and cross cut your boards. You will need 2 pieces at 15 (sides) and 2 pieces at 15 1/8 (shelf/drawer supports). See Plan A. 2. Layout the locations for your sliding dovetails on your sides. Put your pieces together, open them like a book. Locations for dovetails are on Plan B. The dovetails should stop 3/4 from the edge of your pieces. 3. Head to the lumber room and use the dado machine to cut sliding, stopped dovetails in the pieces at 15 long. The preset depth of your sliding dovetail is 5/ Using the router table with a dovetail bit and finger board, cut the sliding dovetail on the ends of the shelf/drawer support pieces. These should be tight to the side and fit snugly in the socket you cut on the dado machine. Be very careful as you are going across the grain. 5. Rip the shelf/drawer support pieces to 6 7/16. This will provide a small shadow line. 6. Now, using a hand saw & chisel trim the front ends of these pieces so they will fit flush with the back of the case. You will now have a small reveal at the intersection of the horizontal and vertical pieces. 7. Using the template for the sides, layout each side with the proper end. Be careful of your dovetail joints, be sure they are oriented properly in relation to the template! Use the bandsaw to cut out the sides and sand up to the line using various sanders. 8. Before you assemble the carcass of your project, sand all the sides of each part to 180 grit. It s easier to sand individual parts than an assembled project. After you have sanded, glue and clamp your project. Finally, check your carcass for square by measuring the diagonals. This measurement should be the same if the carcass is square. If not, use a clamp on the long diagonal and tighten it up until both measurements are the same. Be sure to wipe away squeeze out with a damp paper towel! Write your name and block in pencil on the side and let it set in the clamps overnight. 9. Now, take a drawer face (4 5/8 wide, 5/8 thick) and cross cut it at the table saw or miter saw to 14 1/2 long. See Plan C. 10.Take the piece that will become your sides and back (3 7/8 wide, 1/2 thick, 28 long). At the table saw or miter saw, cross cut your board so you have 2 drawer sides, 6 long, and one drawer back, 14 1/4 long. See Plan D. 11. Use the table saw set up with a dado head and a sacrificial fence to create rabbets (not rabbits) on all 4 edges of the drawer face and the two ends of the drawer back. See Plan D. The rabbets on the drawer face ends should be the same width +

2 1/8 (approximately 5/8 wide) as your drawer sides. The rabbets on the drawer face top and bottom should be about 5/16. The rabbets on the back should be the same thickness as your drawer sides (1/2 ). Remember to use the miter gauge when going across the grain and a push stick for going with the grain! 12. Next, using the table saw with the dado blade set 1/4 high and 1/4 from the fence, run dados in the drawer back and side. 13. At the other table saw, run the dado on your drawer face, which is at a different location then the drawer sides and back. Dry fit your drawer together and mark the location of the drawer side dados on your face and run your dado to that line. *This will already be set up for you. 14. Round over the front of the drawer face using a 1/4 round over bit in the router table that has the bearing aligned with the fence. Use a miter gauge and a backer block to prevent tear out for going across the grain. 15. Measure and trim your drawer bottom on the table saw to fit in the dados. Cut it about 1/16 less than the overall dimension to allow for expansion and contraction. 16. Sand all your drawer parts, then assemble your drawer with brad nails and glue. Glue and nail the sides and drawer face together first, nailing through the drawer sides. Slide your drawer bottom into the dados WITHOUT GLUE. Next, glue and nail your drawer back onto the drawer sides. Finally, check your drawer for square. Your drawer should fit right into your shelf. 17. Sand your entire project to 220 grit. Round over all sharp edges with 220 grit sandpaper. 18. Now it s time to finish your project. Blow off excess dust, and head to the finishing room. Apply the stain, covering all surfaces of the carcass, but only the face and rabbeted edges of the drawer. Wipe off all the excess after 10 minutes. 19. Apply a coat of polyurethane after the stain has dried for 24 hours. 20. Sand all the polyurethane with 220 grit sandpaper and use a tack cloth to wipe off all the dust. Apply another coat of polyurethane. Repeat as needed for 3 coats of polyurethane. 21.While the polyurethane is drying, use a vise, a metal countersinking bit and a drill to countersink a hole in the L brackets to accept the mounting screws 22. After you ve completed your finish, using a hammer, chisel and razor knife, cut 2 small mortises at the locations laid out in your plans in the back of the carcass to accept the L brackets. See Plan B. 23. Last, take some masking tape and apply it to the center of your drawer front. Use a straight edge and mark an X going from corner to corner of the drawer face. Go up 1/8 from the middle. Drill a hole the diameter of the screw for the pull. Use a backer block when drilling through the face to prevent blowout. Remove the tape and tighten down your drawer pull with a screw driver. 24. Congratulations! You ve finished! Now get to work on your personal project!

3 Plans A B

4 C D

5 Evaluation *This evaluation list MUST be submitted with your project otherwise 10 points will be subtracted from your project grade! Category 0-3 points 4-7 points 8-10 points Points received Dimensions Overall dimensions are greater than 1/4 off specified dimensions Overall dimensions are within 1/8-1/4 of plans Overall dimensions are within 1/16 of plans Templating 3/8 or more difference of the matching template 1/8-1/4 of the matching template Within 1/16 of the matching template Stopped Sliding Dovetails Are very loose, not flush with the back, major gaps, lots of squeeze out Are slightly loose, 2 ends are not flush with the back, some small gaps or some glue squeeze. Are snug, flush with the back and tight with the sides, no glue squeeze out Sanding Sanding is rough, uneven or incomplete. Sanding is somewhat smooth or rough in areas, uneven or not to 220 grit, some edges not rounded over Sanding is smooth, even and to 220 grit, all edges are slightly rounded over Drawer Construction Joints are loose, not well sanded, nails are not set, drawer face does not fit flush against supports. More than 1/8 out of square. Drawer face is not rounded over or beveled. Drawer bottom is unfinished. Joints are somewhat tight, not well sanded, some nails not set, or drawer face does not fit flush against supports. 1/16-1/8 out of square. Drawer face is rounded over with some tear out or not consistently beveled. Drawer bottom is loose. All joints are tight, neatly sanded, nails are set below the surface and drawer face fits flush against the supports. Less than 1/16 out of square. Drawer face is rounded over with no tear out or consistently beveled. Drawer bottom fits well. Finishing No finish was applied Polyurethane is somewhat smooth, some blotches in stain Polyurethane is smooth, stain is even, not blotchy Other Mistakes (see comments) Major mistakes made Some, minor mistakes made No other mistakes made Comments: Total /70