Watering Instructions

Transcription

1 Watering Instructions We have enclosed watering instructions information for: Newly Seeded Turf Grass Newly Installed Turf Grass Established Turf Grass Trees and Shrubs Flowers Watering Newly Seeded Turf Grass Hydro-seeded lawn contains a blend of high quality lawn-grass seeds, formulated to best suit the growing conditions of your area. Grass seeds require warmth and moisture to germinate and to grow into grass plants. When hydro-applied, the wet mulch surrounds the seeds, giving the germination process a jump start. Watering: Prior to germination, we recommend watering at least twice daily with a fine mist to keep the mulch and soil moist. On warm and windy days, it may be necessary to water lightly several times per day. After the seed has germinated, reduce the frequency of watering, but water heavier and to a greater soil depth. This will encourage root growth. Mowing: You should mow new grass to a height of two inches as soon as it reaches a 2.5 inches to 3 inches in height. Keep your mower blades sharp to avoid damage to tender seedlings. Wait until the third mowing before applying herbicides for weed control. Mature Grass: Water your lawn thoroughly when it shows signs of moisture stress. To keep grass roots growing deeply and to prepare them for the rigors of northern winters, moisten the soil to a depth of 6 inches to 8 inches at each watering. Normally, this means watering at a rate of about 1 inch of surface water per application. To measure water penetration, use a rain gauge or poke a screwdriver into the ground about 12 hours after watering. If the screwdriver penetrates 6 inches without much resistance, the lawn is usually wet enough. In dry weather, a lawn usually depletes 1 inch of water in about three days.

2 Please use the following six-week calendar as your watering guide. It has been designed for watering three times a day, seven days a week, for six weeks. Simply put a check mark or write the time you watered in the appropriate box. WATERING SCHEDULE FOR NEWLY SEEDED TURF GRASS DAY 1 DAY 2 DAY 3 DAY 4 DAY 5 DAY 6 DAY 7 Week 1 Week 2 Week 3 Week 4 Week 5 Week 6 Watering Newly Installed Turf Grass Wind, humans, birds, domestic animals, and wildlife transport weeds. When treating new sod that has been laid, it is best to treat it after one full cycle of growth (one year). If you must treat newly installed turf sooner, all U.S. market chemicals instruct users to apply it 8 to 10 weeks after sod is laid. However, if extreme heat exists during the time of sodding and the growth cycle, it is wise to wait until spring. If sod is laid in the heat of summer, it will be under stress and the roots will be very sensitive until they become established. When cooler weather arrives, the roots will begin to thrive.

3 Newly installed turf requires heavy soakings in order to moisten the soil 2.5 inches to 3 inches in depth for optimum root establishment. Proper watering should occur once per day (heavy) for approximately 1 inch to 1.5 inches. Scorch is possible if cold water is applied over turf grass that has been heated from the hot midday sun. Watering once per day should continue until the root system has started to take hold or begun to establish (typically 1 to 1.5 weeks). Grasping a handful of grass and gently lifting upward can check proper root establishment. Once the root system has taken hold or established, you may start heavy watering every other week. Your watering plan should be a minimum of 22 days. Spring/Summer Watering for New Turf Installation: For the first week after turf installation, you should water from dawn to dusk. After the first week, water from dawn to 10:00am, then start again at 4:00pm to dusk every day. You want to avoid the noon sun for 4 weeks. After the 4 weeks, be sure your turf receives 1 inch of water per week. Remember to rotate your hose to ensure watering of all turf. Early/Late Fall Watering for New Turf Installation: For the first fourteen days after the sod installation, your new sod will need to receive 1 inch of water per day for the first fourteen days. A standard sprinkler head and hose would require approximately 1.5 hours per coverage area. You must keep moving the hose and sprinkler until all of the new sod is watered. After fourteen days of watering or until snow falls, watering should amount to 1 inch of water per week. Stop watering during below freezing temperatures (32 degrees or below). Standing water will cause new sod roots to burn. Watering sod must occur up to freezing temperatures to ensure proper moisture for the turf. Watering Established Turf Grass Established turf grass requires infrequent but heavy watering. Remember you are watering the soil, not the grass. Generally, established turf grass requires 1 inch to 1.5 inches of water per week for optimum health. Use a rain gauge and/or a straight-sided container to monitor the rainfall for the week. If rain is received, the amount may be deducted from your weekly requirement. Rain gauges and/or straight-sided containers are also useful tools to monitor the amounts of water being applied during irrigation. It is best to start watering during the early morning. Evening watering is not recommended unless watering restrictions allow for evening watering only. Watering in the early morning (5am to 8am) will minimize leaf wetness, which reduces the risk of disease. You may need to water twice per week during extreme weather conditions. Extreme weather conditions occur when the temperature reaches 90 degrees or above for a prolonged period of time. Watering twice per week should still be performed infrequently, but heavily. Separate watering times to the early part of the week and the later part of the week, with a minimum of 1 inch per watering.

4 Watering Trees and Shrubs There are several key factors that you should be aware of when watering trees and shrubs. The smaller the root system, the quicker it will dry out. New tress and shrubs will need supplemental moisture for two to three seasons after planting. The first season is the most critical. A PLANT WILL SHOW THE SAME SIGNS WITH TOO MUCH WATER, AS IT WILL WITH NOT ENOUGH WATER. Plant roots cannot extract moisture from standing water, so they must get it from soil particles. Drainage: How well drained your soil is will be a major contributing factor as to how often you will need to water. To check this, you could dig a small hole in, near, or by the soil and fill it with water. Monitor how fast it drains. Or, before you automatically water, remove a small amount of soil at the edge of the root zone. This will be easy with new plants because the root ball will still be intact. Squeeze this handful of soil to determine how moist the soil is. Saturated soil will form large clods. Moist soil will crumble into pea-shaped particles. Moist soil is the goal. Soil type: We have mostly clay soils in this area. Clay soil typically drains more slowly because of its small particles. Adding large quantities of water too frequently to heavy clay soils is detrimental and can eventually result in the death of the plant. Conversely, plants allowed to go into severe wilt will also cause damage. First year trees and shrubs: Water to soak to a depth of 24 inches, at 7 to 10 day intervals during dry periods of the growing season. Check the soil by probing it, as described above. You could use a probe such as a broom handle or a 24 inch section of rebar to check soil moisture. Sprinkling, as is done for turf and flowers, is not adequate for trees, shrubs, and evergreens. Yews do not like wet feet. Watering Flowers Flowers should be watered regularly to a depth of 1 inch during each occurrence. Watering should moisten the soil at least an inch deep. How often depends greatly upon external factors. Are the plants in the shade or the sun? Are the temperatures high or is it relatively cool? Are nighttime temperatures hot and humid? Has it been windy? Annuals: When annual flowers are first planted, they have very small root systems that will dry out much faster than established plantings. Established plantings have been planted for at least a

5 month or longer. Established plants will have more root surfaces to store moisture plus the plant above will shade its own root system because it is bigger. A good watering guideline for new plantings is 3 times per week. Give them a good soaking and look for wilting (drooping). If they are not wilting, they do not need water. Wilting can happen quickly, especially on hot, windy days. Watering briefly every day is inefficient and does not benefit the plant. It can cause damping off or rotting around the stem of the plant due to constant wetness. Water earlier in the day and avoid wetting the foliage to help minimize the chance of disease. It is better to water deeper to get to the roots. Use a watering wand that attaches to the end of the hose. This will give you a better distribution of water. Perennials: Once perennial plants are established, they will require watering every week or two. Allow soil to dry before watering again. Probe the soil and if it is dry in the top 4 to 5 inches, it is time to water. Established plants need watering usually only during hot, dry periods. As with annual flowers, the correct amount of water needed will vary, however, a good rule of thumb is to water until water starts to puddle up. If it has not rained for a week, you probably need to soak the bed for an hour or two. With perennials, you only need to water when the plant needs it. Do not water on a fixed schedule. Monitoring the soil moisture is the best way to determine when your perennials need watering. If you have any questions, please call the office at Thank you!