MINI Cooper S Gauge Pack Installation Instructions

Transcription

1 MINI Cooper S Gauge Pack Installation Instructions FOR 2002-on MINI Cooper S PART # Tools required: 10mm socket, 3/8 and 1/2 combination wrenches phillips and flat blade screwdrivers T-25 Torx driver wire cutters wire crimping pliers multi-purpose pliers 45 degree needle nose pliers digital volt ohm meter steering wheel, lower it all the way and using a T-25 torx driver, remove the two screws securing the tachometer to the steering column. Unplug the tachometer and remove it from the car. Illustration 2 We recommend professional installation. 1. Locate the battery, under the floor, behind the rear seat. Using a 10mm socket, remove the negative battery cable. Open the hood. Illustration 1 Illustration 2 3. Next, remove the drivers knee bolster (panel forward of the drivers knees) by pulling down sharply at each top corner. Once the corners are unclipped, swing the panel down and unhook the hinges to remove the panel. Illustration 3 Illustration 1 2. Inside the car, if you have an adjustable Illustration Rev. 10/03

2 Illustration 3 4. Again using a T-25 torx driver, remove the two screws securing the lower half of the steering column surround. Once the screws are removed, separate the two halves. The halves clip together and the upper half lifts right off once unclipped. There is a rubber grommet surrounding the ignition switch and it must be removed so that the lower half can be removed. Work carefully. The plastic surround must be unclipped from its forward most mount and worked down past the ignition switch and the adjustable steering wheel lock handle. Illustration 4 Illustration 4 5. Set the tachometer face down on a soft cloth on a workbench. Remove the two phillips screws on the back. The new gauge bracket will mount here. Illustration 5 Illustration 5 6. Slip one black plastic spacer into each hole in the tachometer where the screws were removed. Set the new bracket on the back of the tachometer so that it wraps around the lower portion of the tachometer. Use the included 1-1/4 long screws to secure the bracket to the back of the tachometer. Illustration 6 Illustration Rev. 10/03

3 7. Now, the chrome gauge cup mounting straps will be installed on each side of the tachometer. The slotted screws go through the strap first, then through the bracket and then thread into the threaded sleeve. Align the strap and snug the lower screw. Repeat for the other side. Illustration 7 Illustration 6 Illustration Rev. 10/03

4 8. Unpack the new gauges. Read and understand the instructions included with the gauges. 9. Next, assemble the wiring harness. Start with the Air/Fuel Ratio Gauge and the long (46 ) piece of black plastic tubing to slip over the wires. Measure 21 from the end of the black tubing and cut a small notch in the side of the tubing. Slide a piece of steel tie wire through the tubing to pull the wires in. Attach the tie wire to the wires from the gauge by wrapping the tie wire around the other three wires or by using electrical tape to secure. Be sure the wires are entering the end of the tubing that you measured from for the notch. Use a small amount of WD-40 to help the wires slide through the tubing. Gently pull the wires into the tubing. Illustration Once the wires have been pulled in, disconnect them from the pull wire. Now, using a small flat blade screwdriver, pull both the black and red wires back through the notch in the black tubing. (Bend the violet wire over so that the other wires don t pull it out.) Set the Air/ Fuel gauge aside. Illustration 9 Illustration 8 Illustration Rev. 10/03

5 11. Gather together the boost gauge, the black and white wires, the 16 piece of black tubing, the two red butt connectors, and the compression fitting for the boost gauge to 1/8 tubing connection. Illustration 10 Illustration 11 Illustration On the back of the boost gauge, cut the black and white wires approximately 1 from the bulb socket. Strip off 1/4 of insulation and crimp on the butt connectors. Again, strip 1/4 of insulation off one end of both the included black and white wires. Crimp them into the butt connectors, black to black and white to white. Next, slip the black and white wires through the 16 piece of black tubing. Now is a good time to decide what color back light you want. Remove the bulb socket from the gauge, slip the colored cover over the bulb, and reinstall the bulb socket. Illustration Now, install the compression fitting (included with the gauge) onto the back of the boost gauge. Use thread sealing tape on the threads on the back of the gauge. Start and using a 1/2 combination wrench, snug the fitting. Do not over tighten. The mounting studs will not be used with the gauge cup and must be shortened approximately 3/8 to install properly. The studs can be cut with wire cutters. Illustration 12 Illustration Install the 1/8 plastic tubing (included with the gauge) into the fitting on the back of the gauge. See Auto Meter instructions. Slip the large diameter, 15 long piece of black tubing over both the boost tube itself and the wiring harness. Use of WD-40 will aid installation. On the free end of the white wire, strip and crimp on a male spade connector. Illustration 13 Illustration Rev. 10/03

6 Illustration At this point, slip both gauges into a gauge cup. The wires on the back of the boost gauge will have to be bent toward the gauge so the gauge cup will slip all the way on. Install the grommet in the back of the Air/Fuel Ratio gauge cup. Illustration 14 should be on the right side of the tachometer and the boost gauge on the left. Snug the upper screws to hold the gauges in place Look at the tachometer from the front. If gauge alignment and rotation are satisfactory, tighten the upper screws. Illustration 15 Illustration Back inside the car, at the tachometer harness on top of the steering column, cut back the outer factory loom covering the wires approximately 2. Locate the gray/red wire in the tachometer harness and squeeze a red T-tap onto the wire with multi-purpose pliers. The white wire from the boost gauge will connect here. Illustration 16 Illustration Stand your tachometer upright. Slip the gauge/cup assemblies into the chrome gauge cup mounting straps. Start by feeding the wiring and tubing through the strap and then the gauge cup. The back of the gauge cup should be even with the bracket on the back of the tachometer. The Air/Fuel gauge Illustration Rev. 10/03

7 Illustration Set your tachometer/gauge assembly face down on the drivers floor. Route the white wire from the boost gauge up the right hand side of the steering column to the T-tap installed on the gray/red wire of the tachometer harness. Connect to the T-tap. Illustration 17 Illustration Reinstall the tachometer/gauge assembly. Make sure the tachometer trim is behind the tachometer and the new wiring routes to the right side of the steering column on top of the trim. Plug in the tachometer, start and snug the screws. (It may be helpful to slip the screws through their holes and then lower the tachometer into place.) The tachometer has locating pins. Make sure they are properly seated in their holes. Illustration 19 Illustration Once the white wire is connected, reinstall the steering column surround. Don t install the drivers knee bolster at this time. The white wire should be on the outside of the steering column surround. Illustration 18 Illustration Check the wiring to make sure nothing is pinched and the boost tube is not kinked. Both harnesses will route between the column and the dash on the right side of the column, then through a square hole under the dash. Tie wrap the harnesses and the excess white wire to a mount on the right side of the column, just under the dash. Illustration Rev. 10/03

8 Illustration Using electrical tape, secure the boost tube, the violet wire and its outer tubing to the screwdriver. Use WD-40 to aid installation. Pull the screwdriver gently from the engine side until the wire and tubing have passed through the grommet. The two black wires and the red wire will stay inside the car for connection there. Illustration 22 Illustration Next, route the wiring harness and boost tube into the engine compartment. From inside the engine compartment, locate the grommet with a large factory harness passing through it. It is on the drivers (left) side of the car, toward the center from the brake booster. From the engine side push a long screwdriver through the grommet, checking inside to make sure nothing is damaged. Illustration 21 Illustration 21 Illustration Inside the drivers compartment, locate the wiring harness from the ignition switch as it crosses the steering shaft. Carefully cut into the loom and expose approximately 1 1/2 to 2 1/2 of wiring. Locate the large pale green wire and try to separate it from the rest of the wires. Using multi-purpose pliers, squeeze the yellow T-tap onto this wire. This is switched battery positive. Illustration Rev. 10/03

9 male spade connector onto that end. Connect the male spade connector to the yellow T-tap, insert the fuse into the fuse holder and push the two halves together. Illustration Next, cut the red wire from the Air/Fuel gauge where it reaches the yellow T-tap. Strip approximately 1/4 of insulation off the red wire and crimp on half of the inline fuse holder. Using the scrap piece of red wire, strip and crimp on the other half of the inline fuse holder. Then cut the scrap piece to approximately 2 long and strip and crimp a Illustration 23 Illustration Now to the black wires. Both the black wires provide ground for the circuit and will be crimped into the same ring connector. Hold the wires parallel to each other (as if they were in the connector together) and cut the long wire to the length of the short wire. Strip 5/16 of insulation off each wire, twist them together, and crimp the 1/4 ring connector onto them. Illustration Rev. 10/03

10 28. At this point reinstall the drivers knee bolster. 29. Back in the drivers (left) side of the engine compartment, remove the weather strip above the air box. Remove the ECU cover by squeezing the tabs on both sides, lifting up, and pulling forward. Route the violet wire through the grommet with the wires leading to the ECU. Pull through about 10. Illustration 27 Illustration Just below where the black wires are hanging is a 10mm headed bolt attached horizontally to a dash mount. (toward the center of the car from where the pale green wire is T-tapped) Remove that bolt, slip it through the ring connector on the black wires, and reinstall it. Illustration 26 Illustration 27 Illustration Rev. 10/03

11 Illustration 27 (cont.) 30. Expose the wiring all the way up to the forward most ECU plug. Disconnect the forward most ECU plug by pulling forward on the handle just below the wires that enter the plug. As the handle travels forward the plug should rise up, then pull up and off. Illustration 28 Illustration Next, on the end of engine, just below the oil filler cap is a connector for the primary oxygen sensor (O2). There are four wires passing through the connector; one yellow, two black, and one white/red. Disconnect this connector. Illustration Rev. 10/03

12 wires at the ECU plug. There will only be continuity on one of the wires and the other will read OPEN. Once you get continuity, using a red T-tap, tap that yellow wire. Illustration 31 Illustration The yellow wire is the O2 sensor signal wire to the ECU and the wire needed as the signal for the Air/Fuel Ratio Gauge. 33. There are two O2 sensor signals at the ECU and they are both yellow. Look closely at the wires entering the ECU plug. Locate the two yellow wires that immediately become part of a shielded, black cable. On our Cooper S both were right on top of the bundle of wires. Illustration 30 Illustration Back at the connector at the engine, slip a piece of tie wire into the connector socket that corresponds with the yellow wire. (it will be straight inline with the yellow wire) Next, using a digital volt ohm meter set on the resistance scale, check for continuity between the tie wire and both of the yellow Illustration Remove the tie wire from the connector near the engine and reconnect it. Locate the violet wire from the Air/Fuel ratio gauge, strip 1/4 of insulation off and crimp on a male spade connector. Connect to the T-tap on the yellow wire. Reconnect the ECU plug by gently pressing down on the plug and rearward Rev. 10/03

13 on the handle. The handle should draw the plug down. Replace the ECU cover and the weather strip across the air box. Illustration 32 Illustration Now route the boost tube behind the windshield wiper motor bracket and across to the other side of the car. A piece of tie wire may be necessary to pull the tube across the car. Locate the grommet at the bottom of the compartment with the ABS Modulator. (just below the modulator itself) The grommet has one small wiring harness passing through it. Push the tube through the grommet and then up following two other plastic lines. The boost tube will end approximately there. Illustration 33 Illustration Next, just forward of where the boost tube ended remove the evaporative solenoid. Disconnect the top tube fitting by squeezing the small squares on each side of the connector and pulling up. Bend the metal tab, that is securing it to it s mount, flat so it can slide off the mount. Disconnect the electrical connector at the bottom and slide it off the mount. The lower tube can remain connected and can be unclipped from it s mount and swung up toward the ABS compartment. Illustration 34 Illustration Rev. 10/03

14 38. Unclip and disconnect the other hoses to gain access to a vacuum/boost line on the intake manifold. Illustration 35 Illustration Use a flat blade screwdriver between the intake manifold and the supercharger outlet casting from the front to push off the rubber vacuum connector. Pull the tube and rubber connector out into the open to help make the new connection. Illustration 36 Illustration 34 cont Rev. 10/03

15 41. Connect the last barb on the Tee to the rubber connector on the car. Then slip the hose assembly onto the barb in the intake manifold. A pair of 45 degree needle nose pliers may help with the installation. Illustration 38 Illustration Connect the included plastic Tee fitting with a 1 1/2 long piece of 5/32 vacuum hose to either of the large barbs on the Tee. Then connect the 12 long piece of 3mm vacuum hose to the small barb on the Tee. Illustration 37 Illustration Reconnect and remount all the factory hoses, holding the 3mm hose out of the way. Don t forget the evaporative solenoid electrical connector. Connect the plastic boost tube to the 3mm vacuum hose. Push the hose over the tube about 1. Using two tie wraps secure the boost hose to the other tubes in the area. Illustration 39 (next page) Illustration Rev. 10/03

16 Illustration Reconnect the battery negative cable and confirm the function of the gauges Rev. 10/03