Moscow. Moscow meets summer. Zamoskvorechye and Pokrovka. Relax, enjoy the sun and soak up some local culture. The best walking routes in the capital

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1 Maps Events Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels Moscow June - July 0 More than years in Russia! N Moscow meets summer Relax, enjoy the sun and soak up some local culture Zamoskvorechye and Pokrovka The best walking routes in the capital

2 Contents ESSENTIAL CIT Y GUIDES Foreword In the News Arrival & Getting Around Public transport City Basics Language Culture & Events Concerts Summer festivals Exhibitions Features Pokrovka & Zamoskvorechye th anniversary of Metropol Hotel 0 The Russian beer revolution Hidden museums Travel feature: Oryol 0 Russian history in short Where to eat Russian summer menu Food from former republics Summer terraces Nightlife Dance and drink the night away What to see The Kremlin River cruises Churches and monasteries Modern art centres Museums Russian icons 0 Parks and gardens Writer s museums Gorky Park & Vorobyevy Gory Where to stay Shopping 0 Russian souvenirs 0 Shopping centres Business directory Expat & Lifestyle The Expat Experience Column: Trolls and trademarks Column: S lyogkim parom! St. Petersburg Visit the Northern capital Maps & Index City map Street index Metro map June - July 0

3 Foreword Count yourself lucky if you happen to be in Moscow during the summer months. Moscow winters are long and cold therefore the whole city flourishes as soon as temperatures begin to climb. Into late evening young and old can be seen ambling in the parks and walking along the romantic boulevards in downtown Moscow. The city that never sleeps, as the famous saying goes, may not have the sea, but a scenic river. Through the years the Moscow River embankment has become an extremely popular and glamorous place to pass a warm summers day. Along the embankment of Gorky park, you will find many places to sit and read a book, sunbathe or hire a bike (read more on page ). Walkers should head along the southern bank of the Moscow River and explore the historical Zamoskovrechy district (page ) and those who want to know what is beyond Red Square can read our Pokrovka feature (page ), a vibrant area not far from the Kremlin. Summer days can be hot and long in Moscow and therefore it is essential to know areas to chill out. Over the years Moscow has been enriched by many attractive summer terraces, which are the perfect place to cool off. For beer lovers we have good news - the beer feature on page tells you where to try the fruits of Russia s craft beer revolution. There is also much more on offer in Moscow deserving of your attention. In recent years Moscow s festival culture has developed rapidly and nowadays many famous and promising international and local artists find their way to the Russian capital. Open up page and learn more about the best (music) festivals to be held in Moscow and its surrounding areas. For those who want to see more of Russia and want to travel by train our travel feature (page 0) is dedicated to the birthplace of famous writer Ivan Turgenev. Although summers are typically warm and dry, at times Moscow will experience a surprise bout of heavy rain or levin as the Russians call it. Such days are perfect for a museum excursion. As well as information about the numerous interesting exhibitions, we have also included a list of hidden museums, though less famous, they are no less interesting. Time to enjoy a wonderful summertime in Moscow! Wabke Waaijer, Russia In Your Pocket. IRELAND NORTHERN IRELAND DUTCH CARIBBEAN NETHERLANDS POLAND GERMANY BELGIUM CZECH REPUBLIC SWITZERLAND ITALY ESTONIA LATVIA LITHUANIA AUSTRIA HUNGARY ROMANIA SLOVENIA CROATIA BOSNIA SERBIA BULGARIA MONTENEGRO FYR MACEDONIA ALBANIA GREECE BELARUS UKRAINE RUSSIA SOUTH AFRICA ESSENTIAL Moscow In Your Pocket CIT Y GUIDES founded and published by OOO Krasnaya Shapka/In Your Pocket. Russia, 0 St. Petersburg, Ul. Tsvetochnaya A. tel: + (), fax: + (), General Director Tanya Skvortsova, Editor-in-Chief Ksenia Elzes, Researcher Wabke Waaijer, Design Malvina Markina, Sales Manager Natalia Murgo, Contributors Andy Potts, Maria Stambler, Luc Jones, Bauke van der Meer Customer Service Manager Tanya Kharitonova, Copyright notice Text and photos copyright OOO Krasnaya Shapka All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket. Editor s note The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent from paid-for advertising. We welcome all readers comments and suggestions. We have made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information at the time of going to press and assume no responsibility for changes and errors. OOO Krasnaya Shapka/In Your Pocket Maps: J.J. van der Molen, Published times per year with supplements, N o, 0.0.0, copies. For children aged years and over. GEORGIA Cover story Gorky Park is Moscow s biggest playground for kids and adults. There s so much to do but so little time - let our in-depth guide help you make the most of your day there! Go to page to learn more! About IYP We have been busy these past couple of months. Aside from launching a brand-new guide in Milan, Italy, we have also been applying the finishing touches to our new digital platform at inyourpocket. com. Radically redesigned and restructured to place the visitor at the heart of the cities we cover, our new website puts you in total control of our content on whatever desktop, laptop or mobile device you are using. Give it a go: it s the biggest digital leap forward we have ever taken and entrenches our position as a game-changing publisher in all formats. To keep up with all that s new at In Your Pocket, follow us on Facebook ( or Twitter ( Moscow Marathon The third annual Moscow Marathon, the city s largest sporting event, will take place on September 0th. As a warm-up to the event, the first km race debuted in April, followed by the Moscow half marathon for and km in May. The Night Race (July ) and the Colorful Race (June ) promise to add an extra fun factor to this otherwise challenging endeavor. This year the Marathon will also be accompanied by the largest sports exhibition in Russia, where the world s leading sports gear companies will present their latest equipment, gadgets and sportswear. It s still not too late to catch up on your resolutions for 0! Paradise for kids Children s World (Detsky Mir) is a legendary Soviet-era shopping mall in the heart of Moscow, beloved by children and adults alike. In 00, the building was closed its doors for renovation, but is now finally back in full swing to delight the youngsters with toys, fairytales and joy. The new and improved children s department store boasts a vaulted ceiling topped with a glass dome featuring pictures from Russian fairy tales. A sea of toys and attractions, life-size cartoon characters available for photo ops along with a railroad and a miniature version of Moscow s famous Kremlin and Bolshoi Theater make this for a fantastic day out for the kids even if you re not planning on buying anything. Мoсква В Твоем Кармане Учредитель и издатель ООО «Красная Шапка» Адрес редакции и издателя: Россия, 0 Санкт-Петербург Ул. Цветочная д., лит. А. тел. : + () факс: + () Главный редактор Ксения Элзес Цена свободная. Для детей старше лет. Отпечатано ООО Келла Принт,, Санкт-Петербург, ул. Тележная, д.. Заказ N o Свидетельство о регистрации средства массовой информации Пи No. - от..0 выдано Северо-Западным региональным управлением комитета РФ по печати. Тираж экз. N o In the News Technology, science and the arts Geeky is the new cool and Geek Picnic (June - in Moscow and June 0- in Saint Petersburg) is proof of that. An independent Russian project created severals years ago by enthusiasts who believe that the future is here and now, this year s Geek Picnic is set to be bigger than ever and aims to explore the theme of global cyborgization. Ethical, technological and scientific questions will be discussed and the highlight of the event will be Russia s first ever gathering of people who have prosthetic limbs to share their knowledge and experience! Other big names such as Victoria Modesta, Neil Harbisson, Jens Naumann and Jason Barnes are set to take to the stage. Food in the city Food, glorious food - and all in one place! We re talking about Oda! Eda!, Eastern Europe s largest gastronomical festival that is taking place in Moscow (June -) and St. Petersburg (July -). Last year more than 0,000 people enjoyed all kinds of noms from over 00 different gastronomical projects and restaurants. This year the theme is Russian Gastronomical Traditions but that doesn t mean it s going to be all borsch: exquisite Russian food from the days of Pushkin, Tolstoy and Dostoevsky will be re-interpreted according to contemporary tastes and techniques. Also check out some master-classes, lectures and a series of battles: restaurateurs vs critics and professional chefs vs babushkas! www. одаеда.рф, Russia day June is another opportunity to relax and enjoy the Russian lifestyle. The day officially celebrates the Russian Federation declaring independence from the Soviet Union back in 0 but most Russians seem to agree that this is more a pretext for enjoying summer rather bearing a deeper, political meaning. Concerts and fireworks are the order of the day, accompanied by good friends and the obligatory toasts. Government awards are also given out on this day as Russians celebrate what it means to be Russian. Moscow In Your Pocket June - July 0

4 Arriving & Getting Around Moscow is famous for its red walls, its snowy winters and its excellent public transport system. Home to over million people, Moscow has a public transportation that has been hailed as being amongst the best and most efficient in the world. Whether it is bus, tram, underground, trolley bus, marshrutka (fixed route minibuses) or train, the prices are cheap, the journey is brief and despite the severe weather that hits Moscow, virtually always on time and in service. And if public transport is not for you, simply stick out your arm and you will have a choice of or taxis within seconds. You will never find yourself without a method of getting from A to B in Moscow! Aeroexpress Trains All international airports in Moscow have a fast train connection to the capital s city centre. All? Yes, all! Aeroexpress trains run between Belorussky Rail Terminal and Sheremetyevo airport, Kievsky Rail Terminal and Vnukovo airport, and Paveletsky Rail Terminal and Domodedovo airport. Each rail terminal is connected via the metro circle line. It takes - minutes to get to the airports from the centre of Moscow. Aeroexpress tickets can be bought at Aeroexpress ticket counters or at automatic machines in the rail terminals, through the websites of partner airlines, travel agencies, and via air ticket agencies, either in Moscow, or indeed almost any other region of Russia. A list of sales outlets can be found on the company s website where you can purchase e-tickets using Visa, MasterCard, or PayPal. You can buy an electronic ticket from the official website where you can also view train timetables. Download their free mobile app and you will be able to purchase Aeroexpress tickets using your smartphone with no need to print out the ticket: the turnstiles at the airport are able to read the ticket s QR-code directly from your smartphone/tablet screen. If you are a Master Card Pay- Pass or VISA PayWave holder, you can easily pay for the fare directly at the turnstiles Aeroexpress. The Aeroexpress hotline is (+) (calls from within Russia are free). Arriving by plane Moscow s three main airports are Sheremetyevo located in the north west, Domodedovo in the south east and Vnukovo in the south west. The Aeroexpress train is by the far the fastest and most reliable way to get in to the city centre, dropping passengers off at the metro circle line in just - minutes. Night time arrivals (the Aeroexpress is closed between 00:0 and 0:00) will be at the mercy of taxi drivers so it is advisable to pre-book a taxi or transfer, to save yourself being ripped off by the touts. Remember that when taking a taxi from the airport to the centre that,00 -,000Rbl is a standard fare, do not let the taxi touts intimidate you with talk of,000rbl rides. Around,00Rbl is reasonable. If you withdraw cash in the airport, be aware that ATM s often dispense,000rbl notes. As taxi drivers can not be depended on to have change, if you want to avoid giving them a hefty tip, try to obtain some change in the terminal beforehand. Arriving by train Arriving in Russia by rail is a great experience, and whether you are coming from east or west, north or south, Moscow s many train stations are always bustling with travelers about to embark on long journeys.those arriving very early in the morning to the stations around Komsomolskaya ploschad (Leningradsky, Kazansky and Yaroslavsky - usually hubs for travel from central Siberia, the Urals and St. Petersburg) would be advised to get a taxi rather than wait for the metro to open as the area can be rather dangerous at night. Belorussky Station Trains go from here to Berlin, Warsaw, Minsk, Vilnius, Kaliningrad, and Sheremetyevo Airport via the Aeroexpress, Tverskaya Zastava pl., MBelorusskaya, tel. (+) 0, Kazansky Station Gateway to the East, trains run to Kazan, Tashkent, Samara, Ulan-Ude and beyond.qe-, Komsomolskaya pl., MKomsomolskaya, tel. (+), www. Kievsky Station Besides Kiev, destinations include Odessa, Budapest, Bucharest, Kishenev, as well as Vnukovo airport via the Aeroexpress.QА-, Pl. Kievskogo Vokzala, MKievskaya, tel. (+) 0 0, Kursky Station For destinations in south west Russia and Ukraine, including Rostov-on-Don and Belgorod.QE-/, Ul. Zemlyanoy Val, MKurskaya, tel. (+), www. Leningradsky Station Hub for trains going north to Helsinki, Tallinn and St. Petersburg, including the Sapsan express.qe-, Komsomolskaya pl,, MKomsomolskaya, tel. (+), www. Paveletsky Station For trains to Domodedovo Airport via the Aeroexpress, or further afield into south east Russia.QD-, Paveletskaya pl., MPaveletskaya, tel. (+) 0, Rizhsky Station Destinations include Riga or elsewhere in Latvia.QD-, Rizhskaya pl., MRizhskaya, tel. (+), Yaroslavsky Station The starting point for your Trans-Siberian adventure, trains go to Beijing, Ulan Bator and Siberian destinations such as Irkutsk on Lake Baikal and Russia s most easterly destination, Vladivostok.QE-, Komsomolskaya pl., MKomsomolskaya, tel. (+) Public Transport The quickest method of public transport in Moscow is the metro. With no more than minutes passing between each train, passengers barely get a chance to marvel at the beautiful architecture inside many stations. Buying a ticket is very easy, either a single from the automatic machine, or multiple rides from the ticket office. Tickets cost 0Rbl. On the more modern trains, there is an electronic sign in each carrige announcing the next station. In the older carriages, however, it is simply a voiceover, which can be difficult to hear in rush hour, so if you aren t familiar with Moscow s many stations, it is best to count the number of stops you need to go. Trams, buses and trolleybuses all use the same tickets as the metro. tramlines run all over the city and are very easy to navigate, though perhaps slightly less punctual than the metro. Buses and trolleybuses are also very straightforward, with the routes and destinations displayed in the windows and an electronic, scrolling banner with the name of the next stop inside, Last but not least: marshrutkas. A marshrutka may take some getting used to for a newcomer to Moscow. What can look like slightly dodgy minibuses are actually a legitimate form of transport with fixed routes. Passengers can ask the driver to stop by shouting ostanovite pazhalsta! anywhere along the route to let them out. The average cost is 0Rbl - be sure to have some small change on you when taking a marshrutka as a driver will not take kindly to a 00Rbl note! Car Rental Avis Russia Car Rental AVIS has offices in Sheremetyevo and Domodedovo airports, as well as at Leningradsky Railway station and on -y Dobryninsky per., office (near metro station Oktyabrskaya).Qtel. (+), Open 0:00 - :00. Hertz Hertz has rental locations in Moscow, including an outlet at Sheremetyevo-,, Vnukovo and Domodedovo airports operating from 0:00 - :00. It s possible to collect a car outside of these hours, it incurs additional charges. Qtel. (+), A Arriving & Getting Around Taxis Taxis in Moscow can be relatively cheap compared to other Western capitals. If you phone a legitimate taxi company, you ll be quoted an exact price for the journey. Angel Taxi, tel. (+) 0 00, English-speaking operators and drivers in Moscow s premier / taxi dispatching per-km service with over 0 drivers in Moscow. New Moscow Taxi, tel. (+) 0 0, New Yellow Taxi, tel. (+) 0, TaxiEscort, tel. (+) 0 0, Taxi Shanson, tel. (+), XXL taxi, tel. (+), It s also accepted practice to hail down random cars and negotiate even cheaper prices for rides across the city. To indicate you re looking for a lift, stick out your arm - palm down. To foreigners, the practice may seem unsafe and it is advisable to take caution by traveling with a companion and generally trusting your instinct. Mostly, drivers are notorious for overcharging foreigners. A journey within the city centre should cost between 0-00Rbl. Always agree to a price in advance ( Skolko? ) and if the driver refuses, slam the door and move on to the next Lada. Buying train tickets Buying train tickets at the station For the full blooded Russian experience, line up to buy a train ticket at one of the kassi (Ticket offices) at any train station. You can buy tickets for any train out of Moscow at any train station. If you are buying tickets to a destination outside of Russia, you need to look for the mezhdunarodnaya kassa (international desk). If you don t speak Russian, it is a good idea to find out the number and time of the train you want to catch beforehand and write it down to help you along, as most assistants do not speak English. Look for a big LCD board in the station showing the timetable. Don t forget they also require your passport to sell you a ticket, this is so that your passport details can be printed on your ticket. If you lose your ticket, it is possible to get a new one printed for a small fee by taking your passport to the special lost tickets desk. You will be required to show your passport when you enter the train (to prove the ticket and reservation belongs to you). Buying train tickets online Using the website of the Russian railways comes in very handy. There you can view the timetables and buy tickets online with a credit card and then just pick it up from the station! Other options are to buy through a ticket agency or travel agency in Moscow or try and make a booking through online retailers such as www., and but you might need a login and a password. Odin bilet - One ticket Dva bileta - Two tickets Moscow In Your Pocket June - July 0

5 City Basics Language Be on guard! useful phrases Registration Remember that you must be registered within days of your arrival in Russia (excluding weekends and public holidays). Hotels are legally obliged to register you within hours of arrival. Many travel agencies can also register you. If you don t get registered on time, you can expect serious problems when leaving, ranging from paying a fee, to missing your flight while officials interrogate you. Money The national currency is the rouble (Rbl). Banknotes come in denominations of 0, 0, 00,,000 and,000. Rouble coins come in,, and Rbl. There are 0 kopeks to a rouble and kopek coins come in, and 0. It s illegal to pay in dollars or euros. You can find ATMs at most metro stations, banks and large hotels. Foreigner Prices The foreigner price is a hangover from the good old days of Intourist-organised Soviet travel. At some theatres and museums, foreigners are required to pay two to five times more than the Russian price. Ouch! These institutions insist that Russian tickets are subsidised with foreigners paying the real price. If you have a document (propusk), which says you work or study in Russia, you can usually get the local price. Climate In June and July Moscow hits its stride with balmy temperatures ranging from the mid 0s to the low 0s. Hay fever suffers may struggle with the dusty air and high pollen count which the summer weather brings with it. Sudden storms and temperature drops at night mean that it s best to be prepared - think layers, an umbrella and a folding paper fan. And of course don t forget your sunglasses. Temparature, o C Rainfall, mm Rain (max) Highest recorded temperature ( o C) Average temperature ( o C) Lowest recorded temperature ( o C) Avoid attracting unwanted attention by not speaking loudly in your mother tongue, or walking the streets if you have been drinking. If you are of African, Arab, or Asian descent or have dark skin exercise caution, particularly at night. Moscow Tourist Helpline (English) (+) Customs For most travellers leaving Russia you will just need to go to the GREEN (nothing to declare) channel and you do NOT need to complete the Customs and Currency Declaration Statement upon arrival or departure (unless you are carrying thousands of dollars in cash with you). Any art works, icons etc that are over 0 years old cannot be taken out of the country. If you are in doubt about antiques you have bought get an expert s report, either from the Rosokhrankultura (Kitaigorodsky pr., bldg., tel. (+) 0 0) or an accredited shop. Travelling to most countries you can legally take 00 cigarettes and litres of hard alcohol out with you. To some countries such as Estonia, the allowance is less. Mobile Phones You can use your mobile phone from home if your provider has a roaming agreement with a Russian mobile company. To avoid roaming charges, you can get a Russian SIM card. You ll need to bring your passport to the store to register your new sim card. Alcohol The traditional Russian alcoholic drink is of course vodka. The Poles may also claim that they invented it, but what is certain is that the Russians - and in particular the scientist Mendeleev - are the ones who perfected the recipe. Vodka is cheap and there are literally hundreds of brands to choose from. The most traditional way to drink it is straight as a shot, followed by a salty snack. Beer (pivo) is now the most popular alcoholic drink in Russia and Sovietskoye shampanskoye (Soviet champagne) is the national party drink. Take note that you cannot buy alcohol in shops that is above 0,% between :00 and :00. Post Only believe half the stories you hear about Russia s post system. Mail may get detoured, but usually not lost. If you need to get something in or out of the country in a hurry, consider a courier service. A letter to Europe or Australia takes around three weeks. In addition to these offices below, you can also buy stamps from any post office in Moscow and drop them into any dark blue post box around the city. Basic phrases No/Yes Net/da Нет/Да Hello Zdrastvuite Здравствуйте Goodbye Dasvidaniya До свидания Thank you Spasibo Спасибо Sorry/excuse me Izvinite Извините Please Pazhalusta Пожалуйста I don't understand Ya ne panimayu Я не понимаю I don't speak Russian Do you speak English? Ya ne gavaryu pa-russky Vy gavaritye pa-anglisky? Я не говорю по-русски Вы говорите по-английски? Help! Pomogitye! Помогите! I need some help Mne nuzhna pomoshch Мне нужна помошь I don't want Ya ne khachu Я не хочу I (don't) like it Mnye (ne) nravitsa Мне (не) нравится May I? Mozhno? Можно? Do you have...? U vas est? У вас есть...? I don't know Ya ne znayu Я не знаю How much is it? Skolko stoit? Сколько стоит? It's expensive! Eta dorogo! Это дорого! Large/small Good/bad Bolshoy/ malenky Khorosho/ plokho Большой/ маленкий Хорошо/ плохо It hurts! Bolno! Больно! Today Sevodnya Сегодня Tomorrow Zaftra Завтра Could you write it down? Zapishite pazhalusta Запишите, пожалуйста Toilets Tualet Туалет Stop here please When? At what time? Ostanavite pazhalusta Kogda? Vo skolko? Остановите, пожалуйста Когда? Во сколько? What time is it? Katory chas? Который час? Who? Kto? Кто? How do you say that in Russian? Kak skazat eto pa-russky? Как сказать это по-русски? No problem Bez problem Без проблем Of course Koneshno Конечно Happy Holidays! S Praznikom! С праздником! Password Parol Пароль pocket dictionary: Kvas Kvas the taste of Russian summer. Once the hot months arrive you ll notice big yellow barrels full of this fermented rye bread soft drink appear on the streets yes, a drink made from bread! Bit like a non-alcoholic ale, it s an acquired taste to say the least Marketed as an authentic Slavic alternative to cola, this ancient, traditionally homemade drink is now sold in supermarkets across the land under brand names such as Klassik and Nikola (not cola, gettit?). Kvas can also sometimes find its way into your food too - okroshka is a cold soup consisting of raw vegetables, ham, boiled eggs and lots of kvas. Those crazy Russian chefs! alphabet А A З Z П P Ч CH Б B И I Р R Ш SH В V Й Y С S Щ SHCH Г G К K Т T Ы Y Д D Л L У U Э E Е E М M Ф F Ю YU Ё YO Н N Х KH Я YA Ж ZH О O Ц TS Ъ, Ь no sound Moscow In Your Pocket June - July 0

6 Culture & Events Moscow can be considered as the birthplace of Tchaikovsky, Tolstoy, Stanislavsky, Chekhov, Bulgakov and co. they all took their inspiration from this magical and majestic place. Live music from local and international performers is another big part of the cultural landscape of the city and on a lighter note, contemporary Moscow also sees the running of high heeled road races, honey festivals, air-guitar competitions and other curious events. concert halls and clubs Crocus City Hall QMKAD - Km, MMyakinino, tel. (+) 0 00, Luzhniki Stadium QLuzhniki, MSportivnaya, tel. (+) 0, Moscow Conservatory, the Great Hall QB-, Bol. Nikitskaya ul. /, MArbatskaya, tel. (+) 0, Moscow Philarmonic Society QB-, Ul. Tverskaya /, bldg., MMayakovskaya, tel. (+) 0 00, RAY JUST Arena QLeningradsky pr., bldg., MDinamo, tel. (+) 0, SK Olimpisky QС-, Olimpisky pr., MPr. Mira, tel. (+), Stadium Live QLeningradsky pr. 0, bldg., MSokol, tel. (+) 0 0, State Kremlin Palace QC-, Ul. Vozdvizhenka, MBiblioteka im. Lenina, tel. (+), theatres Bolshoi Theatre QC-, Teatralnaya pl., MTeatralnaya, tel. (+), electrotheater stanislavsky QB-, Tverskaya ul., MPushkinskaya, tel. (+), Helikon-Opera QB-, Ul. Novy Arbat, MArbatskaya, tel. (+), Maly Theatre QС-, Teatralny proezd, MTeatralnaya, tel. (+) 0, UK Mayakovsky Theatre QB-, Bol. Nikitskaya ul. /, MArbatskaya, tel. (+) 0, Moscow English Theatre Different performance venues, check the website for details. Natalia Sats children s Music Theatre QPr. Vernadskogo, MUniversitet, tel. (+) 0 0, (+) 0 0, Sovremennik Theatre QE-, Chistoprudny bul. А,, MChistye Prudy, tel. (+), Stanislavsky and Nemirovich-Danchenko Moscow Music Theatre QC-, Ul. Bol. Dmitrovka, MChekhovskaya, tel. (+), Taganka Theatre QE-, Ul. Zemlyanoy Val /, MTaganskaya, tel. (+), june and july events 0.0 Friday :00 nizza Ten years later, the masterminds behind one of Russia s most iconic duos of the 000 s decided to get back together for two shows in Moscow (June th) and St. Petersburg (June th). With nothing but their voices and a guitar, Andrey Sana Zaporozhets and Sergei Babkin saw their formation s popularity spread like wildfire thanks to their fans loyalty and word-of-mouth. During the recording of nizza s rd studio album Sana and Babkin went their separate artistic ways. But nizza s absence was sorely missed. After all, each fan has their own special connection to their lyrics, which touch upon the heaviest topics and deepest emotions. So it s time to rejoice and see this joyous reunion with your own eyes and feel it with your heart.qstadium Live, Leningradsky pr. 0, bldg., MSokol, tel. (+) 0 0, www. Tickets,000 -,000Rbl. 0.0 Friday :00 Blind Guardian Ladies and gentlemen, please stand and get your tickets - the legends are coming back to town! Blind Guardian, straight from Germany, are coming back to town after a year break. Kings of symphonic power metal, they have managed to create a whole world in which you re immersed into a medieval world with undertones of Tolkien s phantasy lands.they deserve massive respect not only for their mix of powerful speed metal and light melodies, contrast of aggression and true beauty but also for their determination to stay true to themselves and their genre, without the typical rock star scandals and catchy self-advertising. QRay Just Arena, Leningradsky pr., bldg., MDinamo, tel. (+), Tickets,00 -,000Rbl..0 Friday :00 Children of Bodom Are you ready to get your moshing shoes out and head bang like you re again? Then Ray Just Arena on June th is the place to be because the strapping Finnish legends from Children of Bodom are coming back to town! The ability to combine melody, extreme brutality and drive has won them a loyal fan following on both sides of the pond as well as several gold and platinum albums. What makes this show so special and unlike any of the others? This time around, Russian fans get to vote for the songs they want to hear live!qray Just Arena, Leningradsky pr., bldg., MDinamo, tel. (+), Tickets,00 -,000Rbl..0 Sunday :00 Papa Roach To Russia, with love. And rock. Papa Roach, one of everyone s favorite first rock bands, which needs little introduction, is coming back to the Motherland to present their new album F.E.A.R. (Face Everything and Rise). Papa Roach came into being during a very interesting time music-wise, when Nu- Metal met Rapcore. Over the years the band s initial fans grew and matured and the band did so with them, turning their sound more towards alternative metal. This tour is not only a presentation of their new album, but a retrospective of their more than 0 year long career throughout which the boys brought their energetic and dynamic live shows to perfection.qray Just Arena, Leningradsky pr., bldg., MDinamo, tel. (+), www. Tickets,00 -,00Rbl..0 Monday :00 Rise against Party like it s with Rise Against on June th in Ray Just Arena. Formed back in in Chicago by friends Tim McIlrath and Joe Principe, Rise Against is not your average punk rock band: it s a rare blend of aggressive yet melodic punk and brutal hardcore with lyrics laden with deep, thoughtprovoking meaning.the boys like to keep busy - this year saw the release of their th studio with a grim title The Culture & Events Black Market. And what better reason to hit the road and yet again, together with their fans, rise against all kinds of social injustices while having fun?qray just arena, Leningradsky pr., bldg., MDinamo, tel. (+), Tickets,00 -,000Rbl..0 Wednesday :00 Kasabian Back to Moscow again only after one year, we needn t further proof that Russia loves Kasabian and Kasabian loves Russia. If last year s performance at Subbotnik festival is anything to go by, this British band s show is not going to nothing short of grandiose, epic and mind-blowing - undeniable proof that rock n roll is alive and kicking. Kasabian is worth seeing this summer because they re one of those few rock bands that never stop developing and surprising. Their last album is a true ode to the genre that takes in and gives back the finest traditions of rock music throughout the decades.qstadium Live, Leningradsky pr. 0, bldg., MSokol, tel. (+) 0 0, www. Tickets,000 -,00Rbl..0 Sunday :00 Yann Tiersen A French genius beloved by Russians, whose musical career has spanned almost 0 years, Yann Tiersen s style is so cinematographic that people often mistake him for a sound track composer. And this confusion is easily understood, after all his earlier tracks feature on the cult classic Amelie soundtrack! And the multi-instrumentalist composer is on his way back to Moscow to bring the local crowd a delightfully unique mix of classical minimalism, post-rock, folktronica and indie rock. Monsieur Tiersen will be, in part, presenting his latest album Infinity which means that this time around his show will be more vocaland guitar-heavy.qyotaspace (Glavclub), ul. Ordzhonikidze, MLeninsky prospekt, tel. (+) 0 0, Tickets,000 -,000Rbl. Moscow In Your Pocket June - July 0

7 Culture & Events summer festivals Hoorah, festival season is upon us! Everyone s happy that summer is finally here in Moscow! But now this is especially true for music lovers of all musical persuasions. Why? Well, in recent years the European festival culture has finally caught up in Moscow. A testament to that is last year s summer, which saw titans such as The Prodigy, Placebo, Marilyn Manson, Jamiroquai, Enter Shikari, MGMT, Bombay Bicycle Club, Lykke Li, Metronomy and Miles Kane just to name a few. This year, with the economy not at its best, some of last year s festivals will either not be taking place or will be held on a smaller scale. But we re all optimists who see the glass half full because this means you don t need to make any difficult decisions and can go to all of them! So, sunglasses? Check. Sunscreen? Check. Comfortable footwear? Check. Friends? Check. Good vibes? Check. Alright, lets see what this summer has got in store!.0 Friday Sensation White After being hosted so generously by St. Petersburg for straight years, the world s most famous electronic music festival is coming to Russia s capital city! Moscow will host a white fairytale world with a focus on a journey of emotional discovery. This year s show features some of the best global DJ s, taking the night to the next level with their driving bass lines, enchanting melodies and highly charged drops. Join the ride of a life time and let the following DJ s be your guide. The best way to kick off a wild night has a name, and it s Mr White. Sensation s resident superstar DJ has been rocking dance floors all over the globe for years and has come to embody the highenergy dance experience that is Sensation. Then Mark Knight - a rare and wonderful breed of integral house heavyweight - is set to take to the decks. Also on the bill this year is DJ Feel (the leader of Russian dance club music), Fedde le Grand (a veteran Sensation super DJ that is known to bring the crowd what it wants), Chuckie (one of the industry s true pioneers, who created a sound ahead of the time blending elements of hip hop and House music) and Bourgeous (a newcomer who s quickly making waves in the scene as a music producer and DJ).QC-, SK Olimpisky (SKO), Olimpisky pr., MPr. Mira, tel. (+), Tickets,00-0,000Rbl..0 Friday :00 Park Live Tailored more to the rock and metal crowd, this festival hit the scene with a bang back in 0. In its first two years acts such as Limp Bizkit, Poets of the Fall, NOFX, Justice, Ladytron, Pendulum, DJ Fresh, The Prodigy, Marilyn Manson and Deftones tore the roof off. Well not exactly roof because it always took place under the open sky at the All-Russia Exhibition Center, an architectural masterpiece with fountains, amusement park rides and the huge space rocket Vostok in the center of it all. The venue and format will be a little different this year but certainly no less rocking. Park Live decided to spread its wings and take the show to the new Otkrytie Arena where British rock legends Muse will play a headlining show. Fellow rockers from the American band Incubus are also on the bill for the th. Unlike last year, there will be an official after party on the following day in Moscow s gorgeous and lush Gorky Park. As if that s not exciting enough, one of Norway s finest outfits will make you move and groove like no other. So don t miss the chance to let yourself go and have a truly fantastic time to some truly fantastic bands in the peak heat of Moscow s summer.qotkrytie Arena, Volokolamskoye Shosse, MTushinskaya, tel. (+), www. Tickets,00 -,000Rbl. 0.0 Saturday -.0 Sunday Usadba Jazz The largest outdoor jazz funk, world music, acid-jazz, lounge, jazz-rock and blues festival in Russia today is Usad ba Jazz, which welcomes more than 0,000 visitors eager to soak in the performances of the best local and international artists. Although musical performances are a key ingredient, many people are attracted to this festival thanks to its rich cultural and leisure program with activities ranging from volleyball to board games and, of course, the huge beautiful park with its breath-taking architecture and surrounding nature, clean air and the relaxing summer vibe. Over the years, the festival has proudly hosted names such as Marcus Miller, Avishai Cohen Trio, Branford Marsalis Quartet, Charlie Hunter Trio, The Brand New Heavies, Yusef Lateef & Belmondo Quintet - and this is just a tiny fraction of the virtuosos hailing from all parts of the world! Ever since its debut in 00, the beauty and splendor of the Arkhangelskoe Estate, a true masterpiece of Russian architecture of the th century, played venue to the festival. This year the venue will be changing to the no less impressive or atmospheric Tsaritsyno Estate closer to the city center. Spread over stages, local artists as well world famous names will deliver performances across a wide range of genres, from pop rock to mainstream jazz to ethnic music to electronica. Don t sweat it if you re not in Moscow to catch Usad ba Jazz - there are show dates for Voronezh (July th), Ekaterinburg (July th) and St. Petersburg (July th). Or just use it as a great excuse to do some traveling around Russia!QTsaritsyno, Dolskaya ul., MTsaritsyno, tel. (+), www. Tickets,00 -,000Rbl..0 Friday -.0 Sunday Dikaya Myata (Wild Mint) Wild Mint is the largest world music festival in Russia. Ever since 00 it was held in the cultural ethnographic complex Etnomir but this year it s moving to a little village called Bunyrevo in Tula Region (about km from Moscow). Over the years it has attracted the most salient artists from all corners of the world: Balkan rollicking tunes and Celtic rhythms, lingering Russian melodies and laconic afrobeat, noble ethno-jazz and sunny ragga, Georgian polyphony and Portuguese tunes, the songs of independent Spanish pop music and fancy Finno- Ugric lamentation songs. This year you can expect to see Akvarium, Nino Katamdze, Zdob si Zdub, Pirre Edel, Sun Tailor, N.O.H.A. and many other Russian and foreign artists. The vibrant musical program and a rich cultural/entertainment come together to provide visitors with a truly unforgettable trip around our breathtaking planet - all within a short train ride from Moscow! QBunyrevo, Tulskaya Oblast, tel. (+), Tickets,00Rbl and children,0rbl. Getting there: By train from Moscow Kursky Railway station (metro Kurskaya) to Tarusskaya railway station (,hour). From Tarusskaya railway station further by festival buses..0 Saturday :00 Picnic Afisha Held every year since 00, Picnic Afisha has turned into a little city within a big city. Last year, almost,000 people attended this mecca for a second to none program of music and arts, leisure and lifestyle activities, including a designers market and a gastronomic area, special lectures and workshops, cinema and crafts and a full spectrum of amusements and sports. Attendees gather in the scenic area of Kolomenskoe (a former royal estate, which now is a historical, architectural and nature reserve museum) to enjoy the engaging and versatile surroundings for different audiences, either for individuals or families. So what can we expect this year musicwise? Well, boys and girls, get ready to put on your fanciest dancing shoes because Britain s kings of electronica from Hot Chip, together with Russia s queen of rock Zemfira are guaranteed to make you jump around all day! And that s only the cherry on top of the icing. The ever-changing and ever-evolving British band The Horrors, Russia s veteran romantic rocker Naik Borzov, Ivan Dorn (Russia s answer to Pharell Williams) and one of the coolest Russian indie bands SBPCh are also on the bill for this year s edition.qkolomenskoe Museum Estate, Pr. Andropova, MKolomenskaya, tel. (+), Tickets,00Rbl. Electrotheater Stanislavsky Culture & Events The new and improved Stanislavsky Theater, which opened its doors on Moscow s central Tverskaya Street at the start of the year, now goes by the name Electrotheater. It is simply homage to one of the Photo by Andrey Bezukladnikov first pre-revolutionary Russian movie theaters Electrotheater Ars that occupied the same building in. The best traditions of a fashionable movie theater, a dramatic opera studio and the influence of the famous Russian director Konstantin Stanislavsky all these factors intertwine to make this theater truly unique in the capital s cultural scene. The theater s current art director Boris Yukhananov is also determined to combine truly avantgarde traditions with classical Russian theater art. Despite this drive for innovation and transformation, Electrotheater Stanislavksy carefully sticks to the traditions of Russia s dramatic theater. Here is a brief breakdown of what guests can expect to enjoy this summer. The Drillalians, director Boris Yukhananov The main premiere of the summer is the opera series The Drillalians (with English subtitles) which will be presented over evenings! This one is not to be missed as it will beautifully introduce the theater s new direction and the art directors vision for the future of this cultural establishment. June,,,,,,, 0; July,. Blue Bird, director Boris Yukhananov Spread over evenings, this moving trilogy has barely any singing but plenty of speech. The theater s and indeed the entire country s history will be portrayed in a Broadway-like manner but with the same depth of multi-volume philosophical fairytale for adults. July,,,, 0,. The Human Use of Human Beings, director Romeo Castellucci Romeo Castellucci s short play based on Giotto s fresco The Resurrection of Lazarus employs the language of Generallissimo and symbols that will keep viewers on the edge of their seats. Watch a giant wheel move around the theater, followed by a smell of ammonia and the singing of Alexey Tegin, the start of post-perestroika s underground. July,, 0. The Bacchae, director Theodoros Tersopulos A theatrical masterpiece by Theodoros Terzopoulos, The Bacchae tells the ancient myth about a ruler who decided to equate himself to God and ended up being torn apart by bacchae in the mountains. July,,. QB-, Tverskaya ul., MPushkinskaya, tel. (+), Tickets 00 -,000Rbl. See the full schedule online. Moscow In Your Pocket June - July 0

8 Culture & Events kostroma show Bored of Russian history museums with lots of dry non-compelling texts? Looking for history that would be fun and accessible to the whole family? If yes, make sure to check out the National Show of Russia Kostroma! For more than years this spectacle has been transcending space and time to show viewers the vastness of this incredible multi-cultural country. Through brilliant stage performances we are shown the beginning of Christianity in Russia, the Tsarist epoch and pre-revolutionary Russia, the flight of the first man into space and the famous Russian ballet. A variety of landscapes are covered, ranging from the Caucaus mountains to Asian steppes, the Northern Ocean to the Black Sea, the beautiful Volga river to the mighty Yenisei. As the scenery changes, so do the people along with their traditions and culture. QBKZ Kosmos, pr. Mira, MVDNKh, tel. (+), The show takes place every day from the th of June until the th of September (except Thursdays). Exhibitions 0.0 monday -.0 sunday Children of the World Depict War. But is it War they Dream about? Children see the world and the things that happen around us through a different perspective. And while no child should ever witness war, unfortunately, it has happened all too often throughout history. Moscow s All-Russian Decorative Art Museum presents a special exhibition in honor of the 0th anniversary of the victory in World War II and Children s Day on June with an exhibition called Children of the World Depict War. But is it War they Dream about?. It brings together more than 0 graphic works created by children from Russia, Spain, China, Germany, the USA, the UK, France and Japan in the 0s and 0s. The sheer geographic scope of such a project has no equals and allows visitors to see the scale of the humanitarian tragedy of WW through the eyes of children.qc-, All-Russian Decorative Art Museum, Delegatskaya ul., MTsvetnoy Bulvar, tel. (+) 0 0, Open :00 - :00, Thu :00 - :00, Sat :00 - :00, Sun :00 - :00. Closed Tue and last Mon of the month. Admission 0-00Rbl. Children till years old entrance free. through.0 Sunday Metro and War Did you know that the Moscow Metro played a very important role in the city s life during the years of the Great Patriotic War? A new exhibition at the Moscow s All-Russian Decorative Art Museum titled Metro and War is a new multimedia project that aims to show that the metro was more than just a means of transportation during the toughest years of Soviet history - it was the place of struggle, war and, ultimately, victory. Unique photo and video material borrowed from the State Archive of the Russian Federation, the National Library of Russia and other reputable establishments will take you on a journey that begins on June, and continues for nearly four long years under heavy bombardment, rations, losses, invasions and finishes triumphantly on May,.QC-, All-Russian Decorative Art Museum, Delegatskaya ul., MTsvetnoy Bulvar, tel. (+) 0 0, Open :00 - :00, Thu :00 - :00, Sat :00 - :00, Sun :00 - :00. Closed Tue and last Mon of the month. Admission 0-00Rbl. Children till years old entrance free. through.0 Sunday Georgy Yakulov If you re in town between April and July there s an extra reason to visit the State Tretyakov Gallery: the works of one of the most original and colorful artists of the 0th century, an artist and an intellectual, the last Mohican of bohemian life - Georgy Bogdanovich Yakulov (-). An ethnic Armenian who was born and raised in Tiflis (now Tbilisi), formed his artistic identity in Moscow and had close ties to the Parisian art scene, Yakulov ambitiously strived to combine the best of Eastern and Western traditions in his works. Color was especially dear to him: his theory of multicolored suns aimed to explain the connection between nature and culture. Visitors have the pleasure of seeing more than of his works and rediscover the contribution this avant-gardist made to the world of art.qb-, Tretyakov Gallery at Krymsky Val, Krymsky Val, MPark Kultury, tel. (+), Open :00 - :0. Closed Mon. Admission 0-0Rbl. English audio guide 0Rbl. For all the latest concert, event and exhibition news follow us on facebook at through.0 Sunday Robert Capa Together with the Hungarian National Museum and the Hungarian Cultural Center, MAMM celebrates the year of Hungary in Russia by presenting a retrospective of the celebrated Hungarian war photographer and photo journalist Robert Capa. The exhibition includes works, shot in different military conflicts from Spain to Indochina, as well as from his time spent in the USSR in together with John Steinbeck. The latter works were subsequently included in their book The Russian Journal, which, ironically, was never translated into Russian.QB-, MAMM (Multimedia Art Museum Moscow), Ul. Ostozhenka, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+) 00, Open :00 - :00. Closed Mon. Admission 0-00Rbl. through.0 Sunday Around Munkachi As part of the Year of Hungary in Russia, the Pushkin Museum has carefully put together an exhibition titled Around Munkachi, dedicated to the life and work of the famous Hungarian painter Mikhai Munkachi (-00). More than 0 of his works have been brought over from the Hungarian National Gallery and the collection of Imre Pakh and are complemented by the Pushkin Museum s and Tretyakov Gallery s selected works by Russian and European masters of the XIX century. The exhibition is spread across halls and brings the viewer closer to the various creative directions Munkachi went down during his artistic career and juxtaposes it with the European and Russian schools of art of the second half of the XIX century. There is also a special educational and concert program to go with the exhibition.qc-, The Pushkin State Museum of Fine Arts, Ul. Volkhonka, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+) 0 0, Open :00-0:00. Closed Mon. Admission - 0Rbl. through 0.0 Sunday Soviet Photography Soviet Photography was the country s largest and most respected magazine specializing in the art of photography. During its existence from until, all of our vast country s titans of photography featured on its pages and despite strict Soviet censorship, it still got to enjoy a degree of freedom to become the primary platform for discussion about photography among leading professionals and critics. The exhibition invites the viewer to engage with Soviet photography across several decades (0s-0s) and be immersed in the world of aesthetical and thematic variety that appeared on the pages of the magazine during this period.qc-, The Lumier Brothers Center for Photography, Bolotnaya nab., bldg., MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+), Open :00 - :00. Closed Mon. Admission 00-0Rbl. arkhangelskoe Culture & Events through Wednesday In a carriage and horseback Wondering what activity would be perfect for the whole family this May? You don t need to look much further than just outside the MKAD (Moscow s outer ring road) for some good old educational outdoors fun! Head on down to the th-century estate, sometimes also referred to as Russia s Versailles, on May th for the yearly grand re-opening of the complex that will be marked by the exhibition In a carriage and horseback dedicated to royal horse-drawn carriages that belonged to the respected Yusupov family. The two carriages that will be presented have been fully restored and are ready to amaze history lovers and those just looking for something different. One of the carriages was made in Germany in the 0s and the other belonged to empress Catherine II. To fully immerse you in the fascinating world of Russia s royalty and elite, the exhibition will be accompanied by a fascinating demonstration of rarities like harnesses and other equestrian objects. through Sunday French Art at Arkhangelskoe Visitors are invited to marvel at the French Art at Arkhangelskoe exhibition. The name is quite self-explanatory but here s a bit more as to what you can expect to find. This exhibition is the fruit of the collaboration of three Moscow museums: apart from pieces from Arkhangelskoe s collection (one of the country s best collections of late XVII and early XIX century French art), five pieces from the Pushkin museums and several items from the Ostankino estate museum were contributed to the exhibition.the Arkhangelskoye collection, acquired mostly by Prince Yusupov in the late XVII - early XIX century, boasts some impressive French landscapes including those by Claude Joseph Vernet and Pierre Jacques Volaire. Other masters you will be able to marvel at include Charles Alphonse du Fresnoy, Francois Boucher and Louise Élisabeth Vigée Le Brun. QState Museum-Estate Arkhangelskoe, km Ilinskoe Shosse, MTushinskaya, tel. (+) 0, Park open Mon - Fri :00 - :00, Sat and Sun from :00 - :00. Museum open Wed - Fri :0 - :00, Sat and Sun and holidays :0 - :00. Closed on Mon and Tue and last Wed of the month. Admission park 0 - Rbl, exhibition 0-0Rbl, all inclusive ticket 00Rbl. Moscow In Your Pocket June - July 0

9 Culture & Events POKROVKA & ZAMOSKVORECHYE There s no better time than summer to discover Russia s beautiful capital by foot and there are no better areas than Pokrovka and Zamoskvorechye to soak in all the history, culture and beauty that Moscow is so famous for! Here s what there is to see, do and taste in these two places. Walking tour Pokrovka Basmanny district is one of Moscow s most beautiful and historically significant areas, closely associated with Peter I of Russia, Matvey Kazakov and Alexander Pushkin. It extends northeast from Kitay-gorod, within the radial boundaries of Yauza River, contains historical areas of Khitrovka, Clean Ponds, Red Gates, the German Quarter and Basmannaya Sloboda and boasts memorial buildings of Petrine Baroque, Neoclassicism and Art Nouveau periods. It is indeed a glimpse into the Moscow of days past and no street better represents the history, culture and life of then and now than Pokrovka Street. It is mentioned in Griboedov s Woe from Wit, Alexey Tolstoy s Peter the First and its perfect embodiment of historical Moscow made it extremely popular among Russia s cinematographers. For example, a famous Soviet cult classic comedy film The Pokrovsky Gate (directed by Mikhail Kozakov) is set in the area around Pokrovsky Gate, which is a square situated roughly midway down Pokrovka. Lets begin with a little background of the origins of Pokrovka. This street got its name from the Church of the Intercession first mentioned all the way back in. In the church was demolished but Pokrovka remained. As with anything that bore any kind of religious connotation, the Soviets renamed Pokrovka to something more socialist sounding. The new name - Chernyshevskogo Street - was an homage to Nikolay Chernyshevsky, a Russian democrat and utopian socialist who was widely regarded as the chief inspiration for Russia s revolutionary movement in the th century. To immortalize his actions and deeds, a statue was erected in his honor in and remains on Pokrovka until this day. And as with many central streets that were renamed by the Soviets, Pokrovka got its original name back after the fall of the USSR and, ironically, embraced capitalism as luxurious hotels and apartments, modern business centers and posh restaurants started popping up. That is not to say that Pokrovka has lost its classic Moscow feel. For example house number // is a residential house designed in, which is now a cultural heritage site. Several beautiful churches, cathedrals and other religious places line the street making it a highly important area in Moscow for spirituality and Russian Orthodox Christianity. Mansions that belonged to Moscow s merchants of the th century are beautiful site to behold, especially now that many of them have undergone much-needed reconstruction. One of these mansions (house number /) Features was even frequented by Alexander Pushkin and Olga Pushkina for dance lessons. House number A was the main city residence of nobles families like the Shuvalovs and later Golitsyns (duchess Natalia Petrovna Golitsyna was the inspiration for Pushkin s Queen of Spades ) and is one of the most significant buildings in Moscow embodying the period of early classicism. Apart from soaking in history, Pokrovka is a street wellknown for culture, art and entertainment. For example, at the very end of the street (house number /) you will find mm, Moscow s premiere cinema for foreign language movies, art house films and festivals. Children and adults alike would certainly enjoy a trip to the Museum of Unique Dolls (house /), where the art of doll making in Russia, Germany and England over the last two centuries receives special attention: glass cabinets are packed with more than,000 wax, plastic and cloth figures as well as English doll houses. No one can ever go hungry or thirsty here, either. If you re looking for simple Russian fare in original and quirky surroundings, go to Dacha na Pokrovke (house /), a café/restaurant spread over the upper floor of a crumbling medieval mansion with its collection of Soviet and pre- Soviet armoires, radios, telephones and crockery of the type you d usually find at a flea market. The menu focuses on simple Russian classics while in the summer months a barbeque grill kicks off in the leafy garden out front with succulent shashlik. For a quick tasty breakfast pastry or lunchtime snack, pop into Bulka (house ) where everything laid out in the endless display counter is as good as it looks. To sink your teeth into contemporary Georgian goodness in contemporary surroundings and at very reasonable prices Saperavi would be our pick on Pokrovka (house ). The menu does hold good classics like an excellent meaty take on the classic red bean lobio and a very cheesy khachapuri (stuffed cheese bread), but also adds its own twists on things, as for example with the mint and cheese khachapuri - add in thirst-quenching homemade lemonades and reasonably priced wines and you are on to a winner! Nearby, you can also find Dolma (house ) in case you want a broader selection of various Caucasian cuisines. It doesn t have the fake foliage and costumed waiters so typical of Caucasian restaurants until recently, but rather the laidback comfort of a stylish armchair and an exposed brick urban vibe. Moscow In Your Pocket June - July 0

10 MAL. GRUZINSKAYA UL. BOL. AFANASYEVSKY PER. VASNETSOVA PER. MESHCHANSKAYA UL. 0 0 Features The best beer spot on Pokrovka would have to be Pilsner (house /) Already seeing almost three million people BELORUSSKY VOKZAL through its doors since its founding in 00, the chain has sold a staggering,000 tons of local Czech beer. Although situated on a main road, once inside a friendly traditional pub atmosphere will make you think you re in Prague, and the menu s reasonable prices allow you to sample a wide array of Czech cuisine. Partying is another thing that Pokrovka is absolutely suitable for. Krizis Zhanra (house / bld. ) is a longtime favorite that never ceases to get old - or popular! Known for its popular lunch specials, Krizis Zhanra is also an excellent selection for dinner, before it then turns into a nightclub (could be best described as a hipster disco) starting at about :00. This is where the 0 ULITSA crisis GODA of genre comes in: this place changes its format multiple times throughout the day. It is absurdly affordable for its location. 0 GODA UL. Another noteworthy place that you won t UKRAINA find anywhere HOTEL else in town is Tsiferblat, café turned common PIER room. It works on a unique concept whereby you pay for the time you spend here and everything else (provided they have it) is complimentary. When you arrive you select a clock and your name and time is written on a board, when you leave you pay for each minute you stayed - Rbl per minute for the st hour, and Rbl per minute after that. You can help yourself to tea, coffee and biscuits from their little kitchen and you are welcome to bring in your own sandwiches etc too. Dozens of board games, chess and backgammon sets are available and there s also free wi-fi and large tables for working or studying. Warning: no alcohol. If your budget permits and you d like to make Pokrovka your temporary home while on holiday or business in Moscow, the Mamaison All-Suites Spa boutique design hotel (house 0/) is a fantastic option. The cigar lounge and KIEVSKAYA the restaurant are stellar, created from the excitable minds KIEVSKY of Russia s best designers. An abundance VOKZAL of French furniture turns the hotel into a gallery. The Mamaison Pokrovka has only suites and apartments (no standard rooms) and all are filled with hip 0s and 0s design features and modern kitchenettes. The small foreign literature library suffices, should you get bored with the state-of-the-art televisions, wireless Internet and luxury spa complex with hydromassage pool. Obviously, there are plenty more cafes, restaurants, bars and places of interest on Pokrovka that suit absolutely all tastes and interests but we would have to fill this entire issue with their descriptions so it would be if you went to discover this fascinating, historically significant part of Moscow for yourself! PRESNENSKY VAL UL. STOLYARNY PER. KUTUZOVSKY PR. BOL. DOROGOMILOVSKAYA UL. KIEVSKAYA UL. BOL. TISHINSKY PER. UL. KLIMASHKINA RASTORGUEV PER. UL. ZAMORENOVA BOL. PREDTECHENSKY PER. ROCHDELSKAYA UL. -YA BORODINSKAYA UL. KRASNOPRESNENSKAYA NAB. -YA BORODINS KAYA UL. KRASNAYA PRESNYA UL. A B C NOVOSLOBODSKAYA PROSPEKT MIRA D E TARASA SHEVCHENKO NAB. LENINGRADSKY PR. SREDNY TISHINSKY PER. NOVOPRESNENSKY PER. VOLKOV PER. SMOLENSKAYA UL. NOVOARBATSKY BORODINSKY MOSCOW RIVER KRASINA UL. KONYUSHKOVSKAYA UL. PROTOCHNY PER. PLYUSHCHIKHA UL. BELORUSSKAYA 0 RUZHEINY PER. -Y NEOPALIMOVSKY PER. BURDENKO UL. KRASNOPRESNENSKAYA BELORUSSKAYA ZAMOSKVORECHYE ALEXANDRA NEVSKOGO UL. -YA BRESTSKAYA UL. -YA BRESTSKAYA UL. BOL. GRUZINSKAYA UL. NOVINSKY BUL. LESNAYA UL. -YA TVERSKAYA-YAMSKAYA UL. -YA TVERSKAYA-YAMSKAYA UL. -YA TVERSKAYA-YAMSKAYA UL. ZOOLOGICHESKAYA UL. VASILYEVSKAYA UL. TRUBNIKOVSKY PER. KRASINA UL. SADOVAYA-KUDRINSKAYA UL. KOMPOZITORSKAYA UL. MIUSSKAYA PL. VSPOLNY PER. POVARSKAYA UL. BOL. MOLCHANOVKA UL. DENEZHNY PER. PLOTNIKOV PER. BOL. SADOVAYA UL. GRANATNY PER. CHAYANOVA UL. SPIRIDONOVKA UL. BOL. KOZIKHINSKY PER. BOL.PATRIARSHY PER. MAL. NIKITSKAYA UL. BOL. NIKITSKAYA UL. SKATERTNY PER. FADEEVA UL. TRYOKHPRUDNY PER. MAL. BRONNAYA UL. SPIRIDONYEVSKY PER. NOVY ARBAT UL. ARBAT UL. SIVTSEV VRAZHEK PER. KHLEBNY PER. TVERSKAYA UL. DOLGORUKOVSKAYA UL. SYTINSKY PER. MERZLYAKOVSKY PER. BOL. BRONNAYA UL. MAL. DMITROVKA UL. Zamoskvorechye, a neighbourhood in the centre of Moscow, spans multiple centuries: here one may be just as likely to find th century wooden structures fighting for real estate on the same street as a glittering st century business centre or hotel. The contrast is undoubtedly one of this district s charms, as is the collection of churches and museums, without the tourist hordes one could find across the river. Indeed, MAYAKOVSKAYA TRIUMFALNAYA PL. the name of the neighbourhood means across the river, literally, on the right or southern bank from the Kremlin. MAYAKOVSKAYA This area was first settled in the th century. In its early days the district was the home to various communities, enclaves, and professional quarters. Ul. Bolshaya Ordynka is a testament to this neighbourhood s Tatar past as Orda PUSHKINSKAYA refers to the Golden Horde. Royal garden attendants and mint workers, tanners, soldiers of the streltsy (armed TVERSKAYA Russian guard units from the th-th centuries), as well as court translators all made their homes in the area. In the BARRIKADNAYA time of Peter the Great, much of the court was transferred to St. Petersburg and Zamoskvorechye experienced significant depopulation, with the area being resettled by farmers and merchants. Many wealthy businessmen moved in beginning in the th century (they were particularly concentrated on Pyatnitskaya Ul. and Ordynka Ul.) and they made their imprint by building churches, PL. NIKITSKIE such VOROTA as the Church of the Saviour on Bolvany. The area was wracked by floods in the late 00s and the beginning of the 00s, and as a result, land here was among the most affordable in Moscow. After the construction of a dam in the 0s the threat was reduced and industry started to settle in. After the reforms of that led to the freeing of the serfs, the area became a working class stronghold. The largest collection of Russian art in the world and Moscow s ARBATSKAYA most popular museum is located in Zamoskvorechye. Founded by merchant Pavel Tretyakov in the 0s, today approximately one million visitors walk through the doors of the Tretyakov Gallery annually. Containing more than,000 works the gallery is located on Lavrushinsky Pereulok adjacent to the Church of St. Nicholas in Tolmachi. A separate exhibit on Russian art of the 0th SMOLENSKAYA century is located in a different building on ul. Krymsky Val. One particular building of interest in Zamoskvorechye is The House on the Embankment, an enormous apartment building in downtown that faces Bersenevskaya Embankment GAGARINSKY PER. KROPOTKINSKAYA on one side and ul. Serafimovicha on the other. It was built from - as a residence for the Soviet elite. Writer Yuri Trifonov, who lived in the building from -, wrote an eponymous novel that details the lives of the residents in the complex in the 0s, many of whom were killed during Stalin s purges. During Soviet times it was notable for having separate telephone connections, a laundry, and a club for residents. The building currently has 0 apartments and MOLOCHNY PER. offices, a theatre, a cinema, restaurants, and stores. Shortly after the Revolution the Bolsheviks closed and looted many of Zamoskvorechye s churches, although managed to survive the wrecking ball. The socialist love of concrete finally came to the neighbourhood and PARK KULTURY highrise blocks have started appearing in the last two decades. SMOLENSKY BUL. KARMANITSKY PER. 0 GLAZOVSKY PER. - BOL. LEVSHINSKY PER. UL. YULIUSA FUCHIKA 0 UL. GASHEKA ERMOLAEVSKY PER. -YA TVERSKAYA-YAMSKAYA UL. 0 PRECHISTENSKY PER. BOL. VLASYEVSKY PER. BOL. RZHEVSKY PER. CHISTY PER. EROPKINSKY PER. KROPOTKINSKY PER. STAROKONYUSHENNY PER. PRECHISTENKA UL. POMERANTSEV PER. MAL. KOZIKHINSKY MAL. RZHEVSKY PER. MAL. VLASYEVSKY PER. SECHENOVSKY PER. NOVOKRYMSKY PR. KRYMSKY PROEZD 0 ORUZHEINY PER. PER. SADOVAYA-TRIUMFALNAYA UL. BOL. PALASHEVSKY PER. FILIPPOVSKY PER. OSTOZHENKA UL. KHILKOV PER. NIKITSKY BUL. GOGOLEVSKY BUL. KOROBEYNIKOV PER. KALASHNY PER. BOL. ZNAMENSKY PER. POZHARSKY PER. -Y OBYDENSKY PER. BUTIKOVSKY PER. MAL. ZNAMENSKY PER. SOYMONOVSKY PROEZD KRYMSKAYA NAB. KURSOVOY PER. TVERSKAYA UL. BOL. NIKITSKAYA UL. CHURCHES Church of the Resurrection in Kadashi Once the tallest building in Zamoskvorechye, this church is in need of quite a bit of restoration, but then again the last few centuries have been a bit of a bumpy ride. Since its construction in in the Moscow Baroque style, it has been robbed, SUKHAREVSKAYA vandalized, and used as a stable by Napoleonic troops, a KGB TSVETNOY BULVAR archive and a recreational club for a nearby sausage factory. Its bell, which supposedly weighed over six tonnes, is rumoured POSLEDNY PER. to be kept in the Bolshoy Theatre and used for productions of Boris Godunov. Attempts in recent years to knock down historical buildings surrounding the church and replace them with a luxury apartments TRUBNAYA and offices were met with complaints from locals. The threat of being surrounded by apartment blocks SRETENSKY still BULVAR TURGENEVSKAYA looms, but inside, the church s icons and friezes are as quiet as if none of this history had ever happened. QC-, -y Kadashevsky per., MTretyakovskaya, tel. (+), CHISTYE PRUDY Open 0:00-0:00. St. Clement s Church Contrary to what KUZNETSKY the name might suggest this is actually a Russian Orthodox church, one of two in the city named for LUBYANKA a Roman pope and the main church of Zamoskvorechye. LUBYANKA Nowadays the church s five domes and two stories are bright and gleaming, its baroque exterior an iconic pinkish TEATRALNAYA red. But like many other such historical buildings, it found PLOSHCHAD itself hanging REVOLUTSII on by the skin of its KITAY teeth GOROD during the Soviet PL. years when authorities had it earmarked for demolition and transformation into a kindergarten. After escaping that fate it was then used to store books for the Lenin State Library and only in 00 did it return to the Orthodox Church. The KITAY GOROD church s glittering exterior is matched by its renowned and VARVARKA UL. beautifully decorated interior that contains a number of icons and an especially good example of an iconostasis. QD-, Pyatnitskaya ul., bldg., MTretyakovskaya, VASILYEVSKY SPUSK PL. Open 0:0 - :0. MUSEUMS Features Ostrovsky Museum Some have called him the Russian Shakespeare, and his output and national importance are indeed comparable, writing an impressive forty-seven plays, still the bread and butter of Russian repertoire. Yet Alexander Ostrovsky (- ) still remains overlooked abroad. This modest wooden house is where the playwright was born and the surrounding area inspired the young Ostrovsky, KURSKAYA who made his literary KURSKIY debut with sketches about Zamoskvorechye VOKZAL merchant life. Like many writers of his time, he found that making a literary career was a case of exasperating conflict and compromise with the censors, who would often take years to approve a CHKALOVSKAYA play, only to return it in a state that was hardly recognisable. If already well versed in Ostrovsky s works you will appreciate the thorough documentation of performances of his plays in photographs. Even the uninitiated can enjoy the numerous set design sketches on display. As one of Russia s most performed playwrights, Ostrovsky s plays have taken on many guises over the years and the plans for backdrops and scenery are works of art in themselves. QD-, Ul. Mal. Ordynka, MTretyakovskaya, tel. (+) 0, ru. Open , Thu :00 - :00. Closed Mon, Tue, last Friday of the month. Admission 00Rbl. N Forest Museum An atmospheric museum about one of Russia s greatest assets and passions. Forests have been at the heart of the Rus -Y KOTELNICHESKY PER. people since before anyone had considered building the Kremlin and to this day they remain vast and unexplored to quite an extent. Part of the museum is concerned with this last point and the worry that in actual fact the forests might not be as permanent as we would like. Other displays include miniature models of traditional wooden TAGANSKAYA MARKSISTSKAYA buildings, some slightly baffled-looking stuffed forest wildlife and plenty on forest science, accompanied by a soothing soundtrack of birdsong and trickling brooks. Effort has MARKSISTSKAYA obviously gone into the appearance of the place and it s quite an attractive museum. Q-y Monetchikovsky per., MPaveletskaya, tel. (+), museum.forest. ru. Open Wed - Thu :00 - :00, Fri - Sun :00 - :00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 0-0Rbl. Moscow In Your Pocket June - July 0 FRUNZENSKAYA NAB. - 0 STAROPIMENOVSKY PER. KRYMSKY KINSKAYA NAB. DEGTYARNY PER. 0 TVERSKOY BUL. -Y ZACHATYEVSKY PER. 0 KRASNOPROLETARSKAYA UL. SADOVAYA-KARETNAYA UL. TVERSKOY BUL. PRECHISTENSKAYA NAB. NASTASYINSKY PER. MAL. GNEZDNIKOVSKY PER. LEONTIEVSKY PER. VOZNESENSKY PER. KRYMSKY VAL. PUSHKINSKAYA PL. KOZITSKY PER. DELEGATSKAYA UL. STRASTNOY BUL. BOL. KISLOVSKY PER. VOZDVIZHENKA UL. ZNAMENKA UL. USPENSKY PER. BRYUSOV PER. MOSCOW RIVER 0 SADOVOE KOLTSO UL. KARETNY RYAD CHEKHOVSKAYA GAZETNY PER. ROMANOV PER. VOLHONKA UL. BERSENEVSKAYA NAB. -Y SAMOTECHNY PER. LIKHOV PER. MARONOVSKY PER. BOL. DMITROVKA UL. NIKITSKY PER. MOHOVAYA UL. PRECHISTENSKAYA NAB. -Y VOLKONSKY PER. STOLESHNIKOV PER. MANEZHNAYA UL. BOLOTNAYA NAB. BOL. KARETNY PER. MAL. KARETNY PER. SREDNY KARETNY PER. PETROVSKY PER. ALEXANDROVSKY SAD BOROVITSKAYA PATRIARSHY BIBLIOTEKA IMENI LENINA 0 KAMERGERSKY PER. YAKIMANSKAYA NAB. -Y GOLUTVINSKY PER. BOL. YAKIMANKA UL. PER. SAMOTYOCHNAYA UL. -Y KOLOBOVSKY PER BOLSHOY KAMENNY PETROVKA UL. GEORGIEVSKY PER. OKHOTNY RYAD UL. MAL. YAKIMANKA UL. OLYMPIYSKY PR. SADOVO-SAMOTECHNAYA UL. PETROVSKY BUL. OKHOTNY RYAD MANEZHNAYA BOLOTNAYA PL. YAKIMANSKY PROEZD BRODNIKOV NEGLINNAYA UL. TEATRALNY PROEZD KRASNAYA PL. (RED SQUARE) KREMLEVSKAYA NAB. BOLOTNAYA NAB. -Y KHVOSTOV PER. STAROMONETNY PER. MAL.POLYANKA UL. BOL. POLYANKA UL. PER. -Y SPASONALIVKOVSKY PER. -Y MALY KAMENNY TSVETNOY BUL. KUZNETSKY UL. ROZHDESTVENKA UL. SOFIYSKAYA NAB. BOL. STAROMONETNY PER. DUROVA UL. TROITSKAYA UL. RAKHMANOVSKY PER. 0 NALIVKOVSKY PER. POLYANKA -Y KADASHEVSKY PER. KUZNETSKY UL. PUSHECHNAYA UL. NIKOLSKAYA UL. KADASHEVSKAYA NAB. LAVRUSHINSKY PER. PYZHEVSKY PER. -Y KAZACHY PER. -Y KAZACHY PER. LAVRSKY PER. TRUBNAYA UL. VETOSHNY PER. TRUBNAYA UL. POGORELSKY PER. U BOL. SUKHAREVSKY PER. BOL. KISELNY PER. BOL. ORDYNKA UL. BOL. GOLOVIN PER. KOLOKOLYNIKOV PER. -Y M SHCHEPKINA UL. PUSHKAREV PER. MAL. ORDYNKA UL. ILINKA UL. BALCHUG UL. GILYAROVSKOGO UL. MAL. SUKHAREVSKAYA PL. VARSONOFYEVSKY PER. BOGOYAVLENSKY PER. BOL. TOLMACHEVSKY PER. 0 LUZHKOV BOL. SERGIEVSKY PER. PER. PECHATNIKOV ROZHDESTVENSKY BUL. 0 0 BOL. CHERKASSKY PER. 0 RYBNY PER. BOL. LUBYANKA UL. NOVAYA PL. LUBYANSKY PROEZD NIKOLSKY PER. IPATYEVSKY PER. KLIMENTOVSKY PER. PYATNITSKAYA UL. MILYUTINSKY PER. STARAYA PL. STARY TOLMACHEVSKY PER. -Y MONETCHI BOBROV PER. MYASNITSKAYA UL. BOL. TATARSKAYA UL. ARMYANSKY PER. SADOVNICHESKY PROEZD RUNOVSKY PER. -Y NOVOKUZNETSKY PER. OZERKOVSKY PER. NOVOKUZNETSKAYA UL. -Y MONETCHIKOVSKY PER. GROKHOLSKY PER. MAROSEYKA UL. MOSKVORETSKAYA NAB. RAUSHSKAYA NAB. SADOVNICHESKAYA UL. OVCHINNIKOVSKAYA NAB. PYATNITSKAYA UL. GOLIKOVSKY PER. BOLSHOY ZAMOSKVORETSKY TRETYAKOVSKAYA PROSPEKT MIRA UL. MAL. LUBYANKA SRETENKA UL. SRETENSKY TUPIK DAEV PER. SELIVERSTOV PER. MAL. GOLOVIN PER. PROSVIRIN PER. LUKOV PER. ASHCHEULOV PER. RYBNIKOV PER. SRETENSKY BUL. BOL. ZLATOUSTINSKY PER. VISHNYAKOVSKY PER. -Y NOVOKUZNETSKY PER. 0 NOVOKUZNETSKAYA KOSTYANSKY PER. KOPTELSKY PER. (Y) KRIVOKOLENNY PER. KITAYGORODSKY PER. BOL. SPASOGLINISHCHEVSKY PER. 0 0 OZERKOVSKAYA NAB. BOL. TATARSKY PER. BAKHRUSHINA UL. BOL. SPASSKAYA UL. BOL. BALKANSKY PER. DOKUCHAEV PER. SKORNYAZHNY PER. BOL. SUKHAREVKAYA PL. ULANSKY PER. ARKHANGELSKY PER. BOL. SPASSKAYA UL. AKADEMIKA SAKHAROVA PR. GUSYATNIKOV PER. SVERCHKOV PER. TATARSKAYA UL. CHISTOPRUDNY BUL. POKROVKA UL. STAROSADSKY PER. MYASNITSKAY UL. POTAPOVSKY PER. SOLYANKA UL. OZERKOVSKAYA NAB. USTYINSKY PR. SADOVAYA-SPASSKAYA UL. MAL. KHARITONYEVSKY PER. PER. OGORODNAYA SLOBODA KOMISSARIATSKY PER. 0 BOLSHOY USTYINSKY SADOVNICHESKAY UL. KOLPACHNY PER. KHOKHLOVSKY PEVCHESKY PER. PER. KOSMODAMIANSKAYA NAB. BOL. KOZLOVSKY PER. KALANCHEVSKAYA UL. BOL. KHARITONYEVSKY PER. ZHUKOVSKOGO UL. PODKOLOKOLNY PER. KOTELNICHESKAYA NAB. ORLIKOV PER. CHAPLYGINA UL. YAUZSKY BUL. KOMSOMOLSKAYA KOMSOMOLSKAYA PL. FURMANNY PER. POKROVSKY BUL. MASHKOVA UL. KAZARMENY PER. DURASOVSKY PER. BERNIKOVSKAYA NAB. NIKOLOYAMSKAYA UL. TETERINSKY PER. GONCHARNAYA UL. VERKHNYAYA KRASNOSELSKAYA UL. NOVORYAZANSKAYA UL. NOVAYA BASMANNAYA UL. POKROVKA UL. BOL. KAZENNY PER. LYALIN PER. PODSOSENSKY PER. VORONTSOVO POLE SEREBRYANICHESKAYA NAB. GONCHARNAYA NAB. NIZHNAYA KRASNOKHOLMSKAYA UL. S MOSCOW RIVER LENINGRADSKY VOKZAL YAUZSKAYA UL. KRASNYE VOROTA VERKHNYAYA RADISHCHEVSKAYA UL. -Y GONCHARNY PER. SADOVOE KOLTSO -Y KOTELNICHESKY PER. SADOVOE KOLTSO NARODNAYA UL. 0 BOLSHOY KRASNOKHOLMSKY NOVOSPASSKY PER. YAROSLAVSKY VOKZAL KAZANSKY VOKZAL BASMANNY PER. ZEMLYANOY VAL UL. SADOVOE KOLTSO UL. BOLSHIE KAMENSHCHIKI KRASNOPRUDNAYA UL. STARAYA BASMANNAYA UL. KAZAKOVA UL. NIZHNAYA KRASNOSELSKAYA UL. VERKHNYAYA SYROMYATNICHESKAYA UL. ALEXANDRA SOLZHENITSINA UL. MARKSISTSKAYA UL. VORONTSOVSKAYA UL. GOROKHOVSKY PER. TAGANSKAYA UL. 0 UL. GVOZDEVA STANISLAVSKOGO UL.

11 Features Features th anniversary of METROPOL We ve had important businessmen and heads of state. The presidents of France and Canada have stayed here. The leader of North Korea stayed here in 00. We ve also had the honor of receiving royalty. For example, the Queen of Spain, the Queen of the Netherlands, and the Duke of Luxembourg. The list is impressive. Only a handful of hotels in Europe can boast such an impressive guest list but Moscow s iconic Metropol Hotel, one of the Russian capital s main attractions, can proudly do so. This year, Metropol - one of the best hotels in the world as confirmed by its famous guests, the likes of Arnold Schwarzenegger, Sharon Stone, Michael Jackson and many others is celebrating its th anniversary. In its more than century-long history, the Metropol has always been at the center of events in Russia s social and cultural life. Built in 0 at the initiative of the famous Russian merchant Savva Mamontov, the construction process involved many the finest talents of the end of the XIX-beginning of the XX centuries in the sphere of architecture, art and sculpture. The most notable artistic contributions were made by Mikhail Vrubel (the Princess of Dreams mosaic panel) Alexander Golovin (the smaller ceramic panels) and sculptor Nikolay Andreyev (the plaster friezes). During the Silver Age, the Metropol was extremely popular among the creme de la creme of Russian cultural life. The likes of the opera singer Fyodor Shalyapin, the famous ballerina Anna Pavlova and the poet Valery Bryusov frequented the hotel during their stays in Moscow. In the Soviet times several important events took place inside the hotel: Sergey Yesenin confessed his love to Isadora Duncan; Soviet leader Joseph Stalin shook Chinese leader Mao Tse Tung s hand. In, soon after the Bolshevik Revolution, Metropol was turned into the Second Home of the Soviets and housed living quarters and offices of growing Soviet bureaucracy. But this did not last very long and in the 0 s it was converted to its original hotel function. In - the hotel went through a major restoration. As perfectly as it embodies Russia s past, the Metropol also continues to play an important life in Russia s present. Today, the building of the Metropol hotel looks like a magnificent Art Nouveau era production. Interiors preserved from the th century allow the hotel s guests to better feel and understand that history, as well as the history and culture of Russia as a whole. Aside from its impressive history, the Metropol can rightfully be called a bastion of comfort and luxury with all the modern necessities for business and leisure. The hotel offers a selection of rooms (including suites), each with its own character: while all apartments differ in layout and design, decoration details and accessories emphasize their individuality. Carefully restored moldings, wall and ceiling paintings, gorgeous antiques from the early of the 0th century all of these features contribute to creating a unique atmosphere. Each room tells its own story, as well as the history of Moscow: Metropol windows offer a view of the historic center of the capital Teatralnaya Square and Manezhnaya Square, Bolshoi Theatre, Teatralny Proezd, Lubyanskaya Square, and the legendary Kremlin towers. The unique Grand Suites of the Metropol Hotel combine the luxury of the old times with modern technological solutions, ensuring the highest level of comfort. The beautiful and spacious Grand Suites give a feeling of royal relaxation. Guests who opt for these rooms can be absolutely sure to have chosen the capital s chic at its best. The Grand Suite consists of several rooms, separate bedrooms, comfortable hallway. The windows open on the Manezhnaya Square, Revolution Square and Teatralny Proezd. Antique furniture, ancient sculptures and paintings emphasize the grandeur of the apartments. And finally: the hotel has only two Presidential Suites because luxury can t be replicated. Luxury ceiling moldings, bay windows with stained glass decorations, antique furniture, walls upholstered in silk the Presidential Suite is spectacular. The spacious living room is fitted with furniture made of precious wood with carved lions and fauns, a French mantel clock, a piano and a Venetian armchair. It features a collection of artworks from the last three centuries and each item fits so perfectly that it s impossible to imagine it in any other surroundings. From these windows the most famous people of the 0th century looked out at the Teatralny Proezd, Tretyakovsky Proezd and Lubyanskaya Square the almost 0sq meter Presidential Suites welcomed heads of foreign states, members of royal families, film stars, and people of art. The Presidential Suites are even equipped with saunas. One does not have to be a guest at the Metropol Hotel to enjoy this unique atmosphere and get immersed in history. The legendary hotel in the heart of Moscow is also known for the finest traditions of Russia s cuisine enjoyed by locals and visitors alike in one of its restaurants or bars. Breakfast at the Metropol is rightfully considered most exquisite and diverse in terms of the menu served in the memorable entourage of Metropol Hall to the sounds of the harp and fountain. Caviar and salmon pancakes, exotic fruits, porridges of several kinds, natural diary products, poached eggs with smoked salmon and spinach, seasonal berries, meats and a range of cheeses, bakery and many other delights are among the treats served daily from 0:00 until :00. The historical interiors of the early 0th century with the first-class service of the Shaliapin Bar can impress even the most discerning visitors as the perfect place to enjoy a drink. The professional barmen can make a cocktail to satisfy any taste. The special and unique manner of servicing drinks in tandem with the extraordinary coupled historical interiors of the bar with its marble columns, will ceiling moldings and Art Nouveau chandeliers, will plunge you into the early 0th century atmosphere. And finally, there s Restaurant Savva, which owes its name to the founder of Metropol Savva Mamontov, the well-known manufacturer and patron of arts. The Metropol s reputation as the place to find New Russian cuisine would not have come to be without its brand-chef mastermind Andrey Shmakov. A chef must experiment and put their knowledge to practice, perfecting their skills. Simply copying someone else s recipe well, that s not interesting, thinks Andrey Shmakov. And this is the motto he lives by, which is deliciously reflected in the Metropol s menus. Throughout his career which has taken him around the world on a German shipping company, to various Italian and French restaurants in his native Tallinn and Michelin star establishments around Europe, Mr. Shmakov has always stayed true to this principle of experimentation. The Metropol s new menu therefore combines the thoroughness of Scandinavia s cuisine, the vivacity of Italy s, the refinement of France s and the originality of Russia. In addition, Mr. Shmakov firmly believes in using the freshest local produce and finishing off every dish with a pinch of good mood. If you like what you have tasted, Mr. Shmakov s recipe book is available for purchase! Metropol QC-, Teatralny proezd, MTeatralnaya, tel. (+) 0 00, 0 Moscow In Your Pocket June - July 0

12 Where to eat Within the same Moscow city block you can find both good and bad service, five-star fine dining and hot dog snack vans. Muscovites love going out, so most restaurants tend to fill up quickly. To be sure of getting a table, make sure to book in advance. Be aware that many restaurants morph into bars and clubs in the later hours of the evening, so make early reservations if you want some peace and quiet. Tipping is one Western tradition that Russians are making their own. Tip for good service only - around ten percent is considered fair. Our price guide is based on the average price of a main course: Rbl 00-00Rbl 00 -,00Rbl,00Rbl plus SYMBOL key P Air conditioning E Live music T Child-friendly G Non-smoking areas V Home delivery A Credit cards accepted S Take away U Facilities for the disabled L Guarded parking W Wifi Russian and Ukrainian Cafe Pushkin This aristocratic restaurant is extremely famous and popular with local business men and passing tourists. Diplomats, bankers and Moscow s rich and famous now frequent it, but it used to be known as the city s only upper class restaurant where you could eat European standard food and talk freely without being disturbed by the roaming ears of KGB men. The Russian and French cuisine recalls Tsarist times and on the first floor there is a sophisticated -hour café and a restaurant called the Library Room, which has a splendid view of Tverskoy Bulvar.QB-, Tverskoy bul. a, MTverskaya, tel. (+) 00, The first floor open hrs, the second floor :00 - :0.. PAVEGW Dacha na Pokrovke The Dacha on Pokrovka is the place if you are looking for simple Russian fare in original and quirky surroundings. Spread over the upper floor of a crumbling medieval mansion this café/restaurant with its collection of Soviet and pre-soviet armoires, radios, telephones and crockery of the type you d usually find at a flea market, certainly has a special kind of charm. The menu focuses on simple Russian classics while in the summer months a barbeque grill kicks off in the leafy garden out front with succulent shashlik. Live music most evenings.qe-, Pokrovsky bul. / (entrance from Podkolokolny per.), MKitay Gorod, tel. (+), Open :00 - :00.. PAEGSW Odessa Mama Odessa Mama offers a taste of every Russian s idealized childhood cuisine. Drawing inspiration from the slightly raffish Ukrainian port that launched a thousand summer holiday memories, it presents a range of childhood favorites in an atmosphere that has had crowds flocking to the large dining hall near Chistiye Prudy. Meanwhile, a nod to Odessa s Jewish heritage brings a couple of items that you won t find in your staff canteen - the hummus, currently Moscow s most fashionable dish, is worth a look. If you grew up in the USSR, this is like going back to your carefree childhood; if you didn t it s maybe a bit difficult to see what the fuss is about. The restaurant is run by the team behind the Khachupuri Georgian chain, which has a branch in the same building. Also at Ukrainsky bul. (metro Kievskaya). QD-, Krivokolenny per., bldg., MChistye Prudy, tel. (+), Open :00 - :00, Fri, Sat :00-0:00.. PAVEGSW Asian and Indian Bely Zhuravl Possibly the best Korean food in Moscow is served up at this simple restaurant and the portions are huge! Plenty of complimentary Korean pickled delights (including kimchi) are provided to tide you over until the main dishes arrive. The idea here is to bring a group of friends and share things out between you as the soups, noodles and meat dishes come by the kilo. Unfortunately the lack of English menu can make it difficult to order if you are not familiar with Korean cuisine, although there are at least pictures. Buzzers on the tables also ensure dedicated service.qfrunzenskaya nab., MPark Kultury, tel. (+) 0, Open :00 - :00.. PAVSW Darbars Superb view with superb food. Sure, Leninsky prospekt is not the most central place in the city, but it s worth the trek to dine here, if you want a view to die for and some of the best Indian food in the city! Darbars serves traditional southern Indian cuisine and attracts a strong following of faithful Indian expats. It is tastefully decorated in a minimal style although if you prefer the style of your own sofa they also can deliver their tasty Indian food to your door. Also at Starosadsky per. (metro Kitay Gorod).QHotel Sputnik, Leninsky pr., th floor, MLeninsky prospect, tel. (+) 0, Open :00 - :00.. PAVSW Tan It can be hard to find a really good Chinese restaurant, not just in Moscow, but in many cities. However Tan, just off Triumphalnaya Square, defies this. The menu boasts a huge range of choice of high quality traditional Chinese, Japanese and Vietnamese dishes, more modern adaptations and as a vast selection of teas. The service is impeccable, the decor is oriental but comfortable, and the sophisticated yet relaxed atmosphere is enhanced by the house pianist. This is the perfect venue to go to with a group of friends, either after work, on the weekend or to celebrate a special occasion and sample as many of the dishes as possible.qb-, Oruzheiny per., bldg., MMayakovskaya, tel. (+) 0, Open hrs.. PAGSW Beer Restaurants Kozlovica Keep an eye to the sky to spot this traditional Czech pub from the street. In this medieval hall with carved wooden furniture, you will find no nonsense wholesome Czech food, including the famous beer sausages, accompanied by top quality authentic Czech beer, Velkopopovicky Kozel, served at the optimum temperature of - degrees, at which the locals say it releases its true flavour. QD-, Pyatnitskaya ul., MNovokuznetskaya, tel. (+), Open :00 - :00, Fri, Sat :00-0:00.. PAVSW Where to eat Russian summer menu The typical Russian menu may usually be full of hearty warm soups, pies and dumplings to help one get through the bitterly cold winter months, but come summer some special warm weather dishes also make their way on to the Russian menu. Drinks. Typical homemade summer drinks include kvass and mors. Kvass is a very specific eastern European drink that only ever usually appears in summer. Made from fermented rye bread, this soft drink has a very distinct taste that is kind of like beer but not and yes, you can really taste the bread in there too. As summer is berry season mors, a bitter berry drink served very cold is also very popular in summer as are other sweeter berry juice based drinks known as kompot, which can be made from practically any berry that you may find. Soups. Russian cuisine revolves around soups and many of the classic Russian soups such as borsch may often turn up cold. Borsch even has a special sour tasting brother called Shavelyevy soup which is made from sorrel (shavel) which usually grows in June/July. Ukha or fish soup is a popular warm soup in summer as like elsewhere many Russians like to spend a summer s day fishing on the country s lakes or river. The ultimate classic Russian summer soup though is okroshka. Okroshka usually consists of different boiled vegetables such as carrots or potatoes, fresh cucumbers and heaps of dill, parsley and spring onions. Different meats or boiled eggs are also often added and then the whole thing is topped off with plenty of kvass or sometimes even kefir (a kind of natural sour milk). It is as it sounds, quite an acquired taste The main course. Salads are universally popular year round in Russia, seeing as they are one of the simplest staples of Russian cuisine, but come summer the real powerhouse of the Russian table is the shashlik (shish kebab). Marinated in different herbs and spices and then grilled over an open fire, the smell of sizzling shashlik is the sign that summer has truly arrived. As the dish actually originates from the south it is often accompanied with Caucasian sauces such as adzhika (a kind of spicy ketchup) as well as raw onions and a handful of zelen (green herbs such as parsley and dill). In Russian style a piece of rye bread is also a popular accompaniment. As it is technically their national dish, Caucasian restaurants usually serve up the best shashliks. Moscow In Your Pocket June - July 0

13 Where to eat Pilsner Paveletskaya Already seeing almost three million people through its doors since its founding in 00, the Pilzner chain has sold a staggering,000 tons of local Czech beer. Head chef, Robert Masopust, brings traditional meat heavy Czech cuisine straight from Prague, where classic beer sausages dominate the menu, although a fine choice of other specialties and large salads are on offer as well. Also at Pokrovka / (Chistye Prudy), -ya Tverskaya-Yamskaya ul. (Mayakovskaya), ul. Bol. Polyanka / (Polyanka), Presnensky Val / (ul. 0 goda).qd-, Ozerkovskaya nab., MPaveletskaya, tel. (+), www. Open :00-0:00.. PAGSW Cafes and Bakeries Bulka Although the staff are smiling away and the interior is a fashionable minimalist leather and brown, full glass frontage affair, you may prefer just to pop in here and take something to go, given that with the ovens and glass surround it has the potential to get very stuffy. If it isn t too hot though, by all means settle in and enjoy a fantastic range of pastries - their fruit pies are incredibly rich and tartly sweet creations and the fresh bread that goes into the sandwiches cannot be faulted. In fact everything laid out in the endless display counter is as good as it looks. Also at Bol. Gruzinskaya (metro Belorusskaya), Sokolniki park (metro Sokolniki) and Otrada shopping mall (Pyatnitskoe shosse, km from metro Mitino).QE-, Ul. Pokrovka, MChistye Prudy, tel. (+), Open 0:00 - :00, Sat, Sun 0:00 - :00.. PASW Coffee Pyu One half beauty salon, one half café - for manicures turn left and for coffee turn right. In addition to the aromatic coffee brews there s also a wide range of teas as well as delicious cakes and homemade main meals to enjoy. In a confident move I drink coffee has an open kitchen, which is so low and open you could almost pull up a stool and sit at the counter and start pestering the chef - in fact the place is so laidback, you almost get the feeling they wouldn t even mind if you did. As you can see the chefs are working on simple light lunch meals such as salads, homemade pastas and pizzas, which can be ordered in large portions for sharing as well as individual servings. Occasional live acoustic concerts add to the soothing and tranquil refuge.qd-, Chistoprudny bul. bldg., MChistye Prudy, tel. (+), Cafe 0:00 - :00. Sat. and Sun. :00 - :00. Beauty Salon :00 - :00.. PAGW Le Pain Quotidien This Belgian bakery with outlets the world over brings its rustic down-to-earth bread philosophy to Moscow. Long wooden tables, delicious coffee served in bowls perfect for dipping your croissant in, Belgian tartines (open-face sandwiches), salads and cheese boards are all on offer. Many locations have excellent street terraces including this one just a short distance from Red Square, and all the LPQ (as they are affectionately nicknamed by locals) also run great value lunch deals on weekdays. Has numerous locations across the city including at Evropeisky Shopping Centre, Pl. Kievskogo Vokzala (metro Kievskaya), Pyatnitskaya ul. /, bldg. (metro Novokuznetskaya) and Lesnaya ul. (metro Belorusskaya).QC-, Kamergersky per. /, MTeatralnaya, tel. (+) 0, Open 0:00 - :00, Sat, Sun 0:00 - :00.. PAGSW Shtolle Stolle does pies. Traditional old school Russian pies from old recipes that are unlike any others found in the city. And they do them well. Pies with chicken and fish fillings are scrumptious, in particular the herring (selyodka) one is amazing. It s the one shaped like a fish. They also do a range of berry filled pies and a small selection of salads and soups but the pies receive top billing. Their takeaway service is almost as popular as their sit down cafe. Also at Ul. Pokrovka (metro Kitay Gorod).QD-, Pyatnitskaya ul. /, bldg., nd floor, MNovokuznetskaya, tel. (+) 0, ru. Open :00.. PNGSW food from former republics One of the unquestionable pluses of Russia s Soviet past is the popularity of restaurants serving cuisine from former Soviet republics. Of these the most popular both with locals and visitors is probably Georgian, but there are also Armenian, Uzbek, Azeri and Kazakh places, as well as generalised Caucasian cuisine which appears all over the place. Although generally quite meat-heavy - a staple of Caucasian cuisine is the fabulous shashliky (grilled kebabs) which appear on every menu - food from this part of the world is also a good option for vegetarian visitors, making use of the vegetables and pulses native to that part of the world. Particularly popular dishes include Georgian khachapuri (cheese-stuffed bread), satsivi (chicken in walnut sauce), khinkali (giant meat-filled dumplings) and lobio (red bean stew with spices, herbs and pomegranate seeds), Uzbek plov (rice with lamb) and lagman (thick noodle and meat soup and Armenian dolma (stuffed grape-leaves). Caucasian Barashka You fancy eating something other than European cuisine? Try restaurant Barashka, where they serve excellent Azerbaijani food. The atmosphere is cozy, the staffs are friendly and the dishes are undoubtedly of high quality. Traditional dishes include grilled meat, fish and vegetables, and also delicious starters such as qutab; thinly rolled dough filled with either greens, pumpkin, meat or cheese. The restaurant is often busy and attracts both Russians as well as people with roots in Azerbaijan.QA-, Novy Arbat, bldg., MSmolenskaya, tel. (+) 0, www. Open :00 - :00.. PAW Gayane s An informal restaurant serving real Armenian home food. Great examples of the region s specialities can all be tasted here, like for example the flat stuffed breads zhingalov khats and the delicious lamadjo as well as filling spiced minced meatballs (kyufta). Matsoni (a kind of fermented yoghurt sauce) is an essential accompaniment. The presence of numerous expatriated Armenians kicking back and relaxing with fine cognac is a sure sign of Gayane s authenticity. Adventurous diners may want to test themselves on the unusual khash soup made from various cow bits and said to be the food of heroes. The street is located directly across the Garden ring from Smolenskaya (dark blue line) metro, -y Smolensky per. /, MSmolenskaya, tel. (+) 0, ru. Open :00 - :00.. PTAVSW Khachapuri An inexpensive little Georgian café with a minimalist interior that shuns the usual plastic grapes and kitschy music in favour of bright New York loft style surroundings. The khachapuri (cheese bread) after which it is named, is quite OK and in our book any place that will serve you Georgian cheese bread with an egg on top for breakfast will always get a big thumbs up. The shashlik (shish kebabs) comes accompanied by plenty of greens and onions and is washed down nicely with homemade fruit drinks.the tables are all cramped together giving the place a noisy diner feeling, complimented by a particularly eclectic clientele. Also at Krivokolenny per., bldg. (metro Chistye Prudy) and Ukrainsky bul. (metro Kievskaya).QB-, Bol. Gnezdnikovsky per., MTverskaya, tel. (+), Open :00-0:00. Sat, Sun :00-0:00.. PAVEGSW Noev Kovcheg The rich traditional Armenian décor, low lighting, and even a pond of tropical fish Noev Kovcheg as a destination of Moscow s finest. The venue was opened on the th of the th month - the day when Noah s ark is said to have ran aground. The menu offers many classic shish kebab dishes, backed up by a plethora of fine wines.qd-, Maly Ivanovsky per., MKitai Gorod, tel. (+) 0, Open :00 - :00.. PAVGSW Where to eat Moscow In Your Pocket June - July 0

14 Where to eat Looking for expats, tourists & businesspeople? Call Saperavi Saperavi deals in contemporary Georgian cuisine in contemporary surroundings - no plastic grape vines and water features here - instead its bright colours, stylish lighting, comfy chairs and a little light house music. The menu does hold good classics like an excellent meaty take on the classic red bean lobio and a very cheesy khachapuri (stuffed cheese bread), but also adds its own twists on things, as for example with the mint and cheese khachapuri. They do an excellent job of explaining the ins and outs of all the exciting dishes on offer and how best to accompany them and if your here at a weekday lunch time the bounteous meal deals are a steal. Add in thirst-quenching homemade lemonades and reasonably priced wines and you are on to a winner. They also have a restaurant on Pokrovka ul., bldg..qа-, -ya Tverskaya-Yamskaya ul., MBelorusskaya, tel. (+), com. Open :00 - :00, Thu - Sat :00-0:00.. PAVGSW European Björn As soon as the doors of Björn were opened to the Moscow public the word spread very quickly. In the evenings this laconic, nature-inspired and utterly Scandinavian place has very few free tables. The secret to Björn s success is, of course, the typical contemporary Scandinavian approach to gastronomy: an abundance of rich, imaginative flavors harmonic with nature without any pretentiousness. The head chef - straight from Denmark - ensures that everything guests taste is in complete accordance with the best northern cuisines have to offer. Scandinavian specialties such as venison, salmon, herring and cod taste even better with a friendly staff and a delightful northern drinks menu!qd-, Pyatnitskaya ul., MNovokuznetskaya, tel. (+) 0, Open :00 - :00.. PAGW Extra Virgin The simple and chic interior of this Italian-style restaurant attracts many Muscovites and expats during the day. A complimentary olive plate is served with you guessed its - extra virgin olive oil and the olives taste as if they came straight from the tree. The friendly staff serves up delicious pizzas, pastas and risottos as well as fresh, tender fish and meat from the grill. This vibrant restaurant satisfies every occasion, whether you want to have a quick business lunch or a cosy dinner with friends.qe-, Ul. Pokrovka, MChistye Prudy, tel. (+), www. Open :00 - :00, Fri, Sat :00-0:00.. PAGW Food Embassy Everything about Food Embassy screams hip. From their trendy music indoors to the Miami vibe outdoors, you ll only find the coolest cats here. As appearances go their décor is faultless, and this is mirrored by their presentation of food, which too was perfect. Though there s a clear emphasis on quality over quantity, you won t hear any complaints from us about that!qd-, Prospekt Mira, bldg., MProspekt Mira, tel. (+) 0 0, www. Open :00 - :00, Fri, Sat, Sun :00 - :00.. PTAEGW Lucien Lucien recreates the style, sophistication and tastes of the Russian nobility in the th and early 0th Century. The story starts as soon as you enter the door and are greeted by elegantly dressed waiters who lead you into a gorgeous Victorian style parlour scattered with palm trees and pristine white table-clothed tables. Opening the menu you are met by classic French, Russian and Jewish inspired cuisine. Don t miss out on the signature Olivier salad with smoked fish for starters and then follow it up with quail, duck confit, sturgeon, veal, beef tenderloin or a classic Stroganoff the mouthwatering list goes on. All the mains are matched with exquisite garnishes depending on the dish such as warm beetroot-apple pie or Russian pancakes stuffed with porcini mushrooms. If you are in a large group try out the Samovar option - tea from a real Russian samovar with all the traditional accompaniments. QUl. Gilyarovskogo, bldg., MRizhskaya, tel. (+), Open :00 - :00.. PTAGW Molon Lave A new Greek restaurant is now serving Moscow s discerning foodies and gourmands. The brainchild of a Sovietproduced Greek, Alexey Karolidis, Molon Lave serves up the most authentic tzatziki, horiatiki, moussaka and kolokithokeftedes that the capital has to offer. And it s no wonder, after all the head chef Stamatis Tsilias was invited to Russia especially for this delicious project. Those who really know their Greek specialties will be delighted to find real, traditional retsina (white/rosé resinated wine), as well as other wines from Greece and further afar, Greek ouzo and, Bol. Gruzinskaya ul., MBelorusskaya, tel. (+) 00.. AEGSW Scandinavia An icon amongst Moscow s expat scene, Scandinavia has been providing smiley service for almost twenty years now. This restaurant offers a simple menu of Swedish goodies such as gravadlax, baltic herring and meatballs. Not everything is from the north, as their bar menu also has a hefty and popular burger. The central location and calm international atmosphere means there are more than a few suits and ties dropping in after work and especially on Fridays service can get slow.qb-, Maly Palashevsky per. (enter from Tverskaya ul. ), MTverskaya, tel. (+) 0, Open :00 - :00.. PTAGSW To read about even more restaurants in Moscow and find out about all the latest gigs check out our website Where to eat International Beer & Brut Something for the gentlemen (beer) and for the ladies (brut) - that s the concept behind Beer & Brut. Situated in an old mansion, B&B creates a pleasant atmosphere for serious people who don t take themselves too seriously thanks to its eclectic interior with a mural consisting of a random assortment of protruding objects. The menu boasts a refreshing price to quality ratio, with a wide range of dishes to perfectly complement both beer and wine. Beer comes in all forms - commercial and craft - and the wine is divided into simple, understandable options for all budgets. The summer terrace is perfect for kicking back and relaxing!qe-, Ul. Pokrovka, MChistye Prudy, tel. (+) 0. Open :00-0:00, Fri, Sat :00-0:00.. PTASW Delicatessen Delicatessen definitely falls into the category of hidden treasure. Go in to the courtyard of building 0 (where the coffee shop is), veer left and you will find a colourful entrance way announcing thank you for finding us. Down in this bustling basement with its gorgeous antique bar, enthusiastic foodies dig into an array of the chef s favourite things. Ceviche, chocolate puddings, homemade pasta and more - the whole menu is a success. Some say the pizzas are the best in town, others say it s the nicoise salad. For us feeling you ve been let in on a great little secret is the real winning element. Reservations recommended. QC-, Sadovaya-Karetnaya ul. 0, bldg., MTsvetnoy Bulvar, tel. (+), Open :00 - :00. Closed Mon, Sun.. PAEGW Deti Raika It s hard to miss this place just off the Arbat and close to the conservatory and theatres. The colourful exterior with a terrace outside is inviting to many musicians, actors and journalists who make this their favourite hangout. Deti Raiki or Children of Paradise is a French film directed in and the owner s favourite film. The varied menu offers anything from pizzas to steak, sandwiches, salads as well as some tasty fish dishes. With live music in the weekends, ranging from jazz to lounge and even French chansons this place comes recommended.qb-, Nikitsky bul., MArbatskaya, tel. (+), Open :00 - :00, Fri, Sat :00-0:00.. PTAEW Moscow In Your Pocket June - July 0

15 Where to eat Filial If you are young or- more importantly - young at heart and looking for a memorable, atmospheric place to have dinner, then stop by at Filial. This grand café-style restaurant features a dark wood and green accented interior and is always filled with the warm chatter of Moscow s dynamic young population. Though this place is worth a visit just for a glass of wine, you really should have lunch or dinner and try one of the revitalizing salads or the tasty noodle plates. In terms of quality, the food certainly stands out from what you get in Moscow s mainstream restaurants. QD-, Krivokolenny per., bldg., MChistye prudy, tel. (+), Open :00 - :00, Fri, Sat :00-0:00.. PAG Funny Cabany Funny Cabany is the perfect place for carnivores to congregate. The lively atmosphere and a deceptively simple yet modest, vintage interior decor compliments the extensive barbecue and grill menu, which features everything from homemade sausages and burgers, to deliciously tender steaks. A delicious fish menu is also available for the non meat eaters. Add friendly, welcoming staff, very generous portion sizes and if you re lucky, a visit from the resident micropig, Funny Alexandrovich, Funny Cabany is not a restaurant to miss out on. In the summer their large rooftop terrace is a great addition, with bars, a grill, barbecue parties, brunches and lots of parties.qb-, Ul. Mal. Dmitrovka, bldg., MPushkinskaya, tel. (+) 0 0, Open Ma - Thu :00 - :00, Fri and Sat until last guest.. PTAEGW Holy Fox Thanks to Holy Fox enjoying sophisticated food only a few minutes from Red Square is now a real possibility. The minimalist interiors were designed by one of the owners, an architect who oversaw the renovation of Moscow s beloved Krymskaya Embankment. The lovely and original dishes are courtesy of the chef, who learned the secrets of his cooking in Asia, which are noticeable in almost every dish. This creative approach to food is also apparent when it comes to the drinks menu. A wide range of homemade alcoholic drinks can be tried at the bar.qd-, Bol. Cherkassky per. -, MKitay-Gorod, tel. (+) 0 0, www. Tue - Fri :00 - :00 and :00 - :00. Sat and Sun :00 - :00. Mon closed.. GW Izia Grill What started as a hipster craze seems to be going mainstream. Falafel and hummus are the new sushi and Izia Grill, recently opened on Bol. Lubyanka, is embracing the trend. It s a loosely Jewish-themed restaurant on the site of a much-loved Italian place, and while the new décor is hardly revolutionary the change in cuisine is striking. Aside from the falafel, a wide range of hot dogs also get a thumbs-up. Most dishes come in snack-sized portions, but usually have snack-sized price tags attached. It s sitdown street food rather than fine dining, but it works well as a neighborhood café. Also at Ul. Lva Tolstogo (metro Park Kultury).QD-, Bol. Lublyanka ul., MLubyanka, tel. (+) 0, Open :00 - :00, Fri, Sat :00-0:00.. PAEGSW Ragout A smart-casual city-cafe atmosphere is well complemented by an equally simple and well-thought out menu. Despite the relatively restricted choice, it s still impossible to choose, but fear not, standards are high across the board. Vegetarians will also be delighted to see there are lots of exciting things for them to eat too. Breakfasts here are also great and Sunday is an excellent time to visit when they have their informal family roast Sunday lunch. Also at Olimpisky pr. bldg. (metro Prospekt Mira).QA-, Ul. Bol. Gruzinskaya (entrance from -ya Brestskaya), MBelorusskaya, tel. (+), www. Open 0:00 - :00, Thu, Fri 0:00-0:00, Sat :00-0:00, Sun :00 - :00.. PSW Saxon + Parole This high-end American restaurant is an excellent replica of the one in New York. Situated in the romantic neighborhood of Patriarshy Prudy, with the possibility of sitting near an open window in the summer, and cozy indoor seating, it is the perfect place to hang out at the end of the day or to host a business lunch. The menu offers a wide range of meat and fish dishes as well as delicious starters, which are all prepared with fresh and largely local ingredients.qb-, Spiridonevsky per. /, MTverskaya, tel. (+) 0 0, Open :00 - :00, Sat, Sun :00 - :00.. GSW Sky Lounge Fantastic! This restaurant is worth visiting just to experience the view alone. Perched up on the nd floor you can gaze over the whole of Moscow and admire the iconic seven sisters skyscrapers spreading out into the distance. Sky Lounge really has the monopoly on the one-of-a-kind panorama. The menu meets up to the general experience by being filled with well-crafted dishes covering a wide range of cuisines expertly. Many of the dishes are truly delightful and the portions are more generous than you will see almost anywhere else. The wine list is long and filled with all kinds of treasures.qleninsky pr. a, nd floor, MLeninsky prospekt, tel. (+), Open :00 - :00, Thu - Sat :00-0:00.. PAEGSW Townhouse A welcoming interior, an unpretentious European chic and a menu that borrows something from cuisines of every continent make this restaurant a must for hotel guests and locals alike. The head chef has a special knack for everything grilled so a steak or grilled fish/seafood simply cannot be missed! The warm octopus salad is the most delightful starter for any meal. An après lunch or dinner coffee/tea can be best enjoyed in the bar area with its dimmed down lights, extra comfortable arm chairs and a growing library in the upstairs area, which is also suitable for cocktail receptions and other events ranging from book readings to jazz band performances.qd-, Mercure Moscow Paveletskaya Hotel, ul. Bakhrushina, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+) 0 0, com. Open 0:00 - :00.. PTASW White Rabbit Yes, it s cliché to say, but finding your way up to this magical place really does feel a bit like Alice chasing that rabbit down the hole. First make sure you enter the Passage building from the right side entrance (next to the massive building site). This is the only way to find the lift. You then have to get in two separate lifts before you finally pop out at the atrium at the top with a glorious view over the city centre and its various skyscrapers. Upscale White Rabbit does serve some truly outstanding and memorable food and the kitchen is not likely to disappoint. The menu is imaginative and filled with treasures too long to list here, so just take your pick and, Smolenskaya pl. (top of Smolensky Passage building), MSmolenskaya, tel. (+), Open :00-0:00.. PAW Italian Florentini City Cafe This is a great place to plop down on one of the couches after a long day spent walking in the city. The cosy-chic natural wood interior and the open kitchen with woodburning stove and fresh fish waiting to be prepared make you want to order everything on the menu. In fact all dishes are truly tasty and made from fresh ingredients, however their huge selection of thin-crust pizza is what this place is known for and why they classify themselves as an Italian restaurant.qe-, Staraya Basmannaya ul. /, MKrasnye Vorota, tel. (+) Open :00 - :00, Sat, Sun :00 - :00.. PTAEW Where to eat Flotilla Radisson restaurant One of the easiest and most appetizing ways to get to know Moscow is to take a dinner cruise with Flotilla Radisson Royal. Whatever the weather, this fleet of comfortable vessels offers an attractive menu with a slight Italian accent as it plies a route along the Moskva River, taking in a series of key city sights. Having invited many guests to Moscow to join us on the route, it s regularly got the thumbs-up, and with winter fast approaching it s already time to start thinking about breaking the ice - literally and figuratively - over a tasty risotto on the, Flotilla Radisson Royal Moscow, Taras Shevchenko nab., Hotel Ukraina pier, MKievskaya, ru.. PTAESW Jamie s Italian Mamma mia, it s finally here! Fans of affordable, no-frills authentic Italian can now find a safe haven in Jamie s Italian right across from Moscow s Kremlin. Since its founding in Oxford in 00, Jamie s Italian has spread to over 0 cities worldwide but remained true to Jamie s passion for the Italian way of life: good food for everyone, no matter what. The menu offers everything you would expect to find in a restaurant aspiring to the rustic Italian feel - food and beverage-wise - without breaking the bank!qc, Okhotny Ryad, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+), Open :00 - :00.. PTASW Osteria della Piazza Bianca A relaxed Italian atmosphere combined with European comfort makes the Osteria della Piazza Bianca a special place in Moscow. The panoramic views and open kitchen - where Italian chefs prepare your meal right in front of you - create an inviting ambience. Choosing between the various fresh Italian dishes can be hard enough, but luckily the sommelier will be on hand in case you hesitate about the wine. Located just across from Belorusskaya metro, the Osteria is perfect for an end-of-the-working-day dinner or a stylish business, Lesnaya ul. a, MBelorusskaya, tel. + 0, hrs.. PAVGW Tarantino Looking for an unpretentious place where it s all about the food and a down-to-earth atmosphere? Tarantino restaurant offers just that: Italian and American cuisine at its best with a spectacular view over the glitzy Novy Arbat Street but without the extortionate prices characteristic of other Moscow eateries. The portions are generous, the interior is homey which makes for a very pleasant and low key meal with friends or family. And especially for mozzarella lovers there s an extensive mozzarella bar where you can choose what you d like on your plate or in a doggy bag. Menu specialties: grilled meat and seafood and a wide assortment of traditional Italian pizzas and pastas.qb-, Ul. Novy Arbat, MArbatskaya, tel. (+), Open :00 - :00, Fri, Sat :00-0:00.. PAEGW Moscow In Your Pocket June - July 0

16 Where to eat Seafood Gastronomica-Fish If you love fish, once you ve stepped off chaotic Leninsky prospekt and passed through the door of cool, calming Gastronomica you will be delighted you made the effort. This is definitely one of the best fish restaurants in Moscow. On the main menu there s things like Chilean sea bass, turbot and sole to choose from, as well as the closer to home trout and salmon, all of which can be cooked any number of ways from baked in a coal stove to steamed with wine - delicious! There s also a good range of seafood based salads, soups, pastas and risottos - we particularly liked the sterlet consomme - as well as mouthwatering mussels to start. As it is quite some way from the metro, it may be wise to come here by car. In summer terrace is open.qleninsky pr., MLeninsky prospect, tel. (+), Open :00 - :00, Sat :00 - :0.. PAVGSW Porto Maltese in Vegas Crocus City Ceilings covered with sale cloth that looks like it s moving in the wind, ropes instead of regular rails, walls adorned with paintings of maritime settings - all this creates an at sea mood once you step into the newly opened Porto Maltese restaurant at Vegas Crocus City shopping mall. This is the fifth Moscow restaurant by the worldwide Mediterranean cuisine network and is a perfect place to wind down after a long day of shopping with family or friends. Fish and all sorts of seafood are laid out on a cushion of ice next to the kitchen for guests to pick out what they want to eat. Exceptional service, an original and exclusive approach to seafood and a lengthy wine list are sure to impress even the most experienced haute cuisine connoisseurs.qvegas Crocus City, MKAD - km, th floor, MMyakino, tel. (+), www. Open :00 - :00, Sat, Sun :00 - :00.. TNGW Steak Houses Butchery Bar and Grill A leather bound menu offering platters to share, steaks and other cuts of meat all cooked to tender perfection leaves you in no doubt as to the restaurant s culinary focus. The shadowy interior with minimalist decoration has the feeling of a sophisticated living room, albeit one complete with a large bar, and indeed the customers here seem to happily relax as if at home.qbaumanskaya ul., bldg., MBaumanskaya, tel. (+) 0 0, ru/page-butchery. hrs.. PAGW Chicago Prime Steakhouse Everyone may tell you it s the best, and we are going to too, after a visit to Chicago Prime you will be left with no doubt that you have just eaten a very memorable piece of meat. The rest of the things on the menu like the large salads, lobster consumme and blue fin tuna steak are just as accomplished and the portions are huge. If you can t afford to keep up your steak habit, you can also order cheaper yet similarly delectable steak sandwiches and burgers at the bar. A discreet yet friendly atmosphere complete the winning combination.qc-, Strastnoy bul. a, MChekhovskaya, tel. (+), ru. Open :00 - :00, Fri, Sat :00-0:00.. PAGSW GOODBEEF This steak cafe is a great choice for those who want their meat fast and red. There s no messing about here, you simply go to the counter and choose a rib-eye, sirloin or fillet mingon and some garnishes (the baked potatoes are particularly good), tell them how you want it made up and it arrives at your table within minutes. With fussy service and overstyled interiors not part of the game here, the prices are low, but as the concept is from down under, you can be sure the meat is a healthy slab of Australian goodness. The business lunch is particularly good value for money.qd-, Bol. Cherkassky per.-, bldg., MLubyanka, tel. (+) 0 0, Open :00 - :00.. PAEGSW Vegetarian Avocado Vegetarian cafes are always empty, right? Not this one. Come meal time it can be hard to get a table here. Cheery fruit and vegetable pictures on the wall suffice for décor. There is an extensive range of teas on the menu, and the food is delicious. Tofu, spinach and mushrooms feature prominently. The evening live music includes a rather hip harp player, but there is also guitar for those looking for something more conventional. Try not to get too annoyed with the staff who have a tendency to be a bit dippy. Also at ul. Tverskaya /. QD-, Chistoprudny bul. /, MChistye Prudy, tel. (+), Open :00 - :00, Sun :00 - :00.. PASW Fresh This Canadian restaurant and juice bar is on a mission to prove that vegetarian dining can be filling, exciting and varied and does not necessarily need to involve stereotypical joss sticks, Indian tapestries and variations on the lentil. Interior-wise it s as fresh as they come, all clean minimalist lines, favouring industrial materials and rough edges over cuddly pictures of ethnic tribes. On the food front Fresh gets full marks for providing an experience that both vegetarians and meat eaters can salivate over - huge wraps bursting with scrumptious goodies and noodles bowls brimming with both delicate and fiery Asian flavours are just some of the long list of hits. Also at Ermolaevsky per. / (metro Tverskaya).QC-, Ul. Bol. Dmitrovka, MTeatralnaya, tel. (+) 0, Open :00 - :00.. PAGSW Ya vegetarianets I am a vegetarian Bez myasa without meat Summer Terraces Summer is finally here and what a wonderful time it is to be living it up on the city s many summer terraces and beer gardens. In Moscow you ve a whole range of places that you can perch up at and enjoy the sun. From May until September Moscow is filled with al fresco drinking and dining options - from the cafes lined up along Moscow s main walking streets Stary Arbat and Kamergersky pereulok, to the open roofs and balconies of old factories and swanky high rise shopping centres and on into the secluded gardens and courtyards of the city s back streets. Aist QB-, Mal. Bronnaya ul. /, MTverskaya, tel. (+) 0 0 0, Open 0:00 - :00, Fri 0:00-0:00, Sat :00-0:00, Sun :00 - :00.. PAEGW Bar Strelka QC-, Red October Chocolate Factory, Bersenevskaya nab., bldg., MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+), Open 0:00 - :00, Fri 0:00-0:00, Sat :00-0:00, Sun :00 - :00. PTALEGW Dacha na Pokrovke QE-, Pokrovsky bul. / (entrance from Podkolokolny per.), MKitay Gorod, tel. (+), Open :00 - :00.. PAEGSW Domozhilov QArtPlay, Nizhnaya Syromyatnicheskaya, bldg., MKurskaya, tel. (+) 0, ru. Open :00 - :00, Sat, Sun :00 - :00.. PAEGSW Food Embassy QD-, Prospekt Mira, bldg., MProspekt Mira, tel. (+) 0 0, Open :00 - :00, Fri, Sat, Sun :00 - :00.. PTAEGW Gogol Club QC-, Stoleshnikov per., bldg., MTeatralnaya, tel. (+) 0, Open :00 - :00, Fri, Sat :00-0:00. PAEGW Where to eat Khachapuri QB-, Bol. Gnezdnikovsky per., MTverskaya, tel. (+), Open :00-0:00. Sat, Sun :00-0:00.. PAVEGSW Le Pain Quotidien QC-, Kamergersky per. /, MTeatralnaya, tel. (+) 0, Open 0:00 - :00, Sat, Sun 0:00 - :00.. PAGSW Odessa Mama QD-, Krivokolenny per., bldg., MChistye Prudy, tel. (+), ru. Open :00 - :00, Fri, Sat :00-0:00.. PAVEGSW Osteria della Piazza Bianca QA-, Lesnaya ul. a, MBelorusskaya, tel. + 0, hrs.. PAVGW Paul QA-, Ul. Arbat /, bldg. (entrance on Garden Ring), MSmolenskaya, tel. (+) ; Romanov per. /, bldg., MAleksandrovsky Sad, tel. (+) 0 0; ul. Lesnaya, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+) 0 0 0, Open 0:0 - :00, Sat, Sun 0:0 - :00.. PASW Scandinavia QB-, Maly Palashevsky per. (enter from Tverskaya ul. ), MTverskaya, tel. (+) 0, Open :00 - :00.. PTAGSW Sky Lounge QLeninsky pr. a, nd floor, MLeninsky prospekt, tel. (+), Open :00 - :00, Thu - Sat :00-0:00.. PAEGSW The Hudson Bar QA-, Ul. Butyrsky Val, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+) 0, Open :00-0:00. PAEGW VICOLO (Marriott Royal Aurora) QC-, Ul. Petrovka, MKuznetsky Most, tel. (+) 00, com. Open 0:00-0:00.. PTAGW 0 Moscow In Your Pocket June - July 0

17 Features Where to eat The Russian beer revolution For decades Soviet Russia could only manage two sorts of beer Pivo est (we have beer) or Pivа nеt (we have no beer). In a land where vodka was the tipple of choice, mastery of malt and hop was not a big priority, and while post- Soviet years brought an explosion in the quantity of brews on offer the quality of most Russian-made beer was almost as painful as the resultant hangover. Happily, however, things are changing. The craft beer revolution that has swept through North America and Europe has arrived here and a clutch of small-scale breweries is popping up to produce some interesting and distinctive offerings. A shot from the famous Soviet comedy Kidnapping, Caucasian Style, directed by Leonid Gaidai, What to drink The Pale Ale, derived from a British beer prepared for export to India, is perhaps the most popular offering. This light, hoppy, spicy brew comes in several forms from different breweries, including India Pale Ale, American Pale Ale and the somewhat contradictory Dark Pale Ale. Ones to look out for include Red Machine and Black Sails, both by Moscow s Victory Arts brewery. Stouts and porters have a long pedigree in Russia, with the traditional Imperial Stout first being brewed for the royal court in St. Petersburg. It s back on the menu in a big way today: Jaws Oatmeal Stout is a rich, tasty beer from the Ural town of Zarechny, near Yekaterinburg; Tula s Salden s Brewery offers an Extra Stout worth looking out for. For a slightly different taste, the Coffee Stout made by Petersburg s Vasiliostrov Brewery is also worth checking out. Aside from the companies mentioned above, St. Petersburg s AF Brewery (the name stands for Anti-Factory) also has a burgeoning reputation. Where to drink it Most Moscow bars tend to offer a limited range of the usual suspects mass market, mass produced lagers with little to distinguish them, perhaps joined by a few eye-wateringly expensive imported brews. Happily a few places have sprung up to serve more specialized beers and local craft brews that often undercut big-name imported brands. Entuziast Tucked away in the back of a courtyard behind one of Moscow s plushest shopping streets this place is part biker café, part beer Mecca. There s a good selection of draught brews on offer and a well-stocked fridge full of interesting bottles, plus a small selection of merchandise from the old Entuziast motorcycle brand that used to zip around the USSR. Sandwiches and bar snacks are available, and so is tea and coffee if you come on your bike.qc-, Stoleshnikov per. /, MChekhovskaya, tel. (+) 0. Open :00 - :00. Craft Republic Over the road from the Chelsea gastropub, this underground watering hole has a no-frills vibe more suited to a ryumashka than a bar. But it also has a range of around 0 beers on tap and a huge selection of bottled beverages. The clientele is young and hipsterish, but not oppressively so, and the absence of TV screens is a rare blessing for guests who want a quiet pint and a good conversation. The only thing missing is a food menu.qс-, Mal. Gnezdnikovsky per., bldg., MPushkinskaya, tel. (+). Open :00 - :00, Fri, Sat :00-0:00. PAW One more pub Next to the shiny office blocks of Belaya Ploshchad, One More Pub is a fairly regular bar that has decided to take a chance on offering a few interesting beers. The draught menu usually has a couple of local craft beers available and there s often an interesting imported ale or two to be found as well. Best of all, on Sundays there s a special offer, perfect for a lazy afternoon of beer and televized football.qul. Butyrsky Val, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+) 0 0, www. Open :00-0:00, Thu, Fri :00-0:00. PAGW Vse tvoi druzya (All your friends) This little street is the epicenter of Moscow s craft revolution; while Craft Republic is the no-frills approach to bar management, Druzya is tucked behind a quirky gift shop and combines good beer with TV sports and weekend DJ sets. A different vibe - instead of seats, just grab a barrel and a cushion - makes for a different audience, but the commitment to unearthing interesting brews is just as strong.qc-, Mal. Gnezdnikovsky per /, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+) 0. Open :00-0:00. AGW The original city that doesn t sleep, Moscow has everything going on under those bright neon signs. Whether you re after an elite nightclub with a pyrotechnic show and a face control policy to strike fear into the hearts of grown adults, a dingey dive or a comfortable English style pub where you can hole up til the wee small hours, you won t be disappointed. live music CLUBS ArteFAQ By day it s an ideal place for a coffee and a book, come the evening it becomes a reasonable venue for a restaurant or cocktail date and at night all kinds of live music kicks off in the basement. Colourfully decorated and with little mezzanine areas jutting out here and there it s all a bit of a maze full of snug corners and bustling dining areas. FAQ manages to stay on the right side of bohemian cool - mismatched furniture, exposed brick walls and bookshelves put the art in the name, without falling into the over-thetop trap and the whole atmosphere is complimented by a jazz-funk soundtrack. The menu can be disappointing in terms of the price to quality ratio, but most people find the atmosphere makes up for any such disappointments. QC-, Ul. Bol. Dmitrovka, bldg., MChekhovskaya, tel. (+) 0, Open :00-0:00. PAEW B Club One of Moscow s biggest live music clubs, B offers live jazz, latino, rock and ska music and more. With five floors holding seven bars, a courtyard and a capacity of 000 people it s quite possible that you will hear every kind of music imaginable in just one night - if you can manage to figure your way around the labyrinthine interior that is. Students and older locals alike flock to the place to hear some of Russia s best and newest bands play at low prices. As well as the jazz club, disco club, latino music, lounge, rock concerts and football screenings, there s karaoke, billiards, sushi, a cinema and a summer courtyard - a veritable one stop shop for a busy night out.qb-, Bol. Sadovaya ul. /, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+) 0, Open :00-0:00. PEG Duma This place is not only literally underground it s also through a couple of courtyards and hidden down an alley. Down in this large round cellar they play quality funk music to a cool youngish crowd who know their stuff. Some decent live bands also often drop in to crank up the tempo. The interior oozes groovy 0 s Soviet chic - old sewing machines, samovars and radios abound whilst classic art films and Soviet retro clips are projected on to the walls. In the summer the cellar bar empties as the large courtyard terrace and its ping pong table becomes the place to be.qc-, Mokhovaya ul., bldg. V (entrance from Nikitsky per. ), MOkhotny ryad, tel. (+), Open :00-0:00. AEW Nightlife Kitaisky Lyotchik Jao Da Dzhao Da is a bizarre fusion of restaurant, bar and club, attracting a younger and older crowd in equally large numbers. With live music and drinks flowing, you ll inevitably stumble across a drunk chat or even a Russian toast; it all adds to the atmosphere. Their salty snacks really hit the spot so don t worry about that hunger craving after a few drinks, they have the perfect cure!qd-, Lubyansky proezd, bldg., MKitay Gorod, tel. (+), Open :00-0:00, Sat, Sun :00-0:00. PAEW Bars Bar Strelka The main headquarters of Moscow s hipster parade, this bar attached to the Strelka Design Institute has become a bit more inclusive of regular folk in jeans and suits since it first opened but is still notorious for the entrance lineup where they suss out how hip your outfit is before letting you in. The small dance floor fills or completely empties depending on the weekend DJs. In the summer the delightful roof terrace with an incredible view is the place to see and be seen at any hour of the day or night and is a lovely place to relax with a drink and a plate of their delicious nibbles.qc-, Red October Chocolate Factory, Bersenevskaya nab., bldg., MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+), Open 0:00 - :00, Fri 0:00-0:00, Sat :00-0:00, Sun :00 - :00. PTALEGW Moscow In Your Pocket June - July 0

18 Nightlife Darling, I ll call you later Half way between pub and bar this curiously named drinking den is a good place for those with a big crowd of friends who actually want to chat with each other. Music is background indie-rock stuff, bar snacks are plenty, there are a few TVs for those needing to keep up with the sport and plenty of large tables. By mixing a more upscale drinks menu with a downbeat interior and vibe it draws in both wealthier students and professionals alike.qb-, -ya Tverskaya -Yamskaya ul., MMayakovskaya, tel. (+) 0 0, Open :00 - :00, Fri, Sat :00-0:00. PAEGW Kvartira The main draw of this branch of the popular french style cafe/bar is the large atmospheric courtyard terrace, which is surrounded by the ruins of an old building, that in usual Russian style is slowly being rebuilt with cheap bricks. When out in the yard, service can get a bit slow, and there s no piano, but despite that it s still one of the nicest terraces in the area. Inside there is more of a warm and cosy glow, perfect for snuggling up in.qc-, Ul. Mal. Yakimanka /, MPolyanka, tel. (+), Open :00 - :00. PAEW La Bottega Wine Bar and Cafe Located in amongst the big banks and consultants of the White Square skyscraper cluster, the market for this upscale wine bar is obvious. The wine selection is extensive, albeit mostly European in focus and prices cross the whole gamut from,00 a bottle to,000 for the most exclusive vintages from the cellar. The lighting is dim and the combination of floor-to-ceiling windows, aged leather sofas and bare brick walls certainly add the right kind of understated atmosphere to those sophisticated deal-breaking drinks. La Bottega also serves various French and Italian snacks to accompany the, Lesnaya ul. B, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+) 0, Open 0:00 - :00, Thur, Fri, Sat 0:00-0:00. PAGW MyBar This is not another elitny hangout with generic Moscow cocktails and pounding music. My Bar s philosophy is to create a welcoming venue for friendly people who are looking for a relaxed hangout and down-to-earth staff. MyBar is well and truly a dive bar; especially popular with expats and local office workers looking for a post-work drink and some fun, it offers a refreshingly laid-back alternative to Moscow s glamour dominated nightlife scene. The music selection varies vastly, but is usually a good mix of golden oldies, with some great pop and rock classics to dance to at the weekend. Thursdays are live music nights with free concerts from rock and blues bands. Be prepared to queue a little to get in later on at the weekend as the dancefloor fills up and the crowd gets lively.qc-, Ul. Kuznetsky Most, bldg., MTeatralnaya, tel. (+), Open :00 until 0:00. PAEG The Hudson Bar This smart American bar brings some much needed attention to the after work drinks crowd of the big money White Square business centre. The expat owner has thankfully held back from hiking up the prices and trying to instill some elitism and instead has created a bar that s great for those arriving alone to perch at the long bar or with a gang to colonise one of the booths - regardless of their budget and dress code. This democratic approach spurs great results. The crowd is mixed and friendly and the hostess is there to help not hinder. In summer they open their beautiful, Ul. Butyrsky Val, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+) 0, ru. :00 until last guest. PAGW Clubs Club Garage One of Moscow s longest-running clubs (open since ), Garage packs in the crowds for its legendary Wednesday / Sunday R nb nights, and Friday / Saturday after parties. Open hours with a full bar, restaurant and hookah menu, Garage has something going on at all hours. The crowd tends to be young and Russian (although some of the fashion tastes can be a little extreme), but the friendly atmosphere and relaxed face control makes it a fun night out for those who don t want to deal with the attitude of Moscow s glamour clubs. Summer terrace is open from the end of April until October.QС-, Brodnikov per., MPolyanka, tel. (+) 0, ru. Open hrs. PAEW Club Roxbury In this newly-opened Moscow outpost of the mega-successful Los Angeles chain, you ll be amazed by the luxury and scope, unlike any gentleman s club in Europe! Guests sink into the comfortable sofas surrounded by the most beautiful girls in Moscow in this classy environment. International DJ s, amazing costumes, arial acrobatics, and sensory overdrive.qul. Butyrsky Val, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+), Open :00-0:00. PAW Gogol Club Something is surely going to happen here, any minute now in any one of the three connecting spaces - its got that backstage energy. From the stage under the circus tent out the front, the cosy Parisian style restaurant and the beer kiosk that wouldn t be out of place at an outdoor festival of rock, Gogol is a great place for any amount of time, be it long or short, day or night. Bouncers keep everything sane and there are plenty of quiet nooks to escape to if things get too hectic near the dancefloor. The music is bohemian European stuff you probably won t remember the next day but you ll enjoy it while you re here. QC-, Stoleshnikov per., bldg., MTeatralnaya, tel. (+) 0, Open :00 - :00, Fri, Sat :00-0:00. PAEGW Icon Club The extravagant and glamorous Icon club, opened in September 0, can accommodate 000 over its main dance floor, separate bar and dance floor, VIP areas and a roof terrace with superb views of Moscow at dawn. Though men will have to pay to enter, it is worth it for top DJs taking their lead from the most recent trends in Ibiza, Berlin and New York.QC-, Bolotnaya nab., MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+) 0 0, Open closed, Fri, Sat :00-0:0. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun. PALEGW Propaganda A cafe club with a backstage look, Propaganda has a chilled out vibe that is popular with everyone. Service is attentive and swift so for better or worse you re never long without a tipple. The food is reasonably priced portionwise and the lounge-house sounds put everyone into their comfort zone. Of an evening, different djs sets kick in. Also one of the oldest clubs around in Moscow, they ve already notched up years and still invite foreign djs regularly and host gay evenings on Sunday nights.qd-, Bol. Zlatoustinsky per., MKitay Gorod, tel. (+), Open :0-0:00, Sat, Sun :00-0:00. PENGW To read about even more clubs and bars in Moscow check out our website Nightlife Cocktail Bars All Time Bar Dmitri Sokolov, Moscow s new tsar of the cheap cocktail bar has opened yet another open all hours joint for those who like imaginative cocktails but hate the pretention and high prices that often come with them. Service can get a little slow when it s busy, so try order at the bar and be prepared for the music to dramatically increase in volume after midnight.qc-, Ul. Bol. Dmitrovka /, bldg., MTeatralnaya, tel. (+) 0, Open hrs. PAW City Space The view is heavenly. There are no other words for it when you are on the th floor looking out at all of Moscow beneath you. Then the waitress brings you your personally mixed cocktail. Here they know the classic cocktails from the Bloody Mary to the Martini backwards. Regular guest mixologists are constantly bringing fresh ideas to the menu, while their own favourite creations such as the incredible Trans-Siberian make great use of local flavours.qswissotel Krasnye Holmy, Kosmodamianskaya nab., bldg., th floor, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+), www. Open :00-0:00. PALE Dream Bar Whilst the cocktail list is long and detailed, the prices are reasonable and the drinks themselves are inventive and tasty. A popular hangout at the end of the day for the after-work crowd, the atmosphere is relaxed and the music ambient and mellow. However all this changes come the weekend, when the loud pumping dance music, indicates it s time to take off the ties and let your hair down.qd-, Myasnitskaya ul., bldg., MChistye prudy, tel. (+), Open hrs. PAW Time Out Bar An unassuming cocktail bar in historic surroundings, which lets the view do the talking. The menu offers different styles of cocktails for different times of day, for example champagne based breakfast drinks or a samovar filled with one of many ice-cold tea-based cocktails for o clock tea. The early evening jazz soundtrack is a nice addition as is the huge open-air terrace and original period features such as the Soviet realist mural on the ceiling.qb-, Bol. Sadovaya ul. / (Hotel Peking, th floor), MMayakovskaya, tel. (+) 0 0, Open :00 - :00, Thu :00-0:00, Fri, Sat :00-0:00. PAEW Moscow In Your Pocket June - July 0

19 What to see The Kremlin The street plan of central Moscow forms an impressively ordered pattern of concentric circles, clearly marking the city s development outwards over the centuries. In the middle of this great Catherine wheel is the Kremlin, the fortified hill which formed the heart of the ancient city, and which to this day houses the political HQ of the planet s largest nation. Within the world-famous red walls nestles a collection of buildings of various architectural styles, ranging from ancient Russian ecclesiastical, through Romanov imperial classicism, to 0s Soviet modernism. While much is out of bounds to tourists, being part of the Government and Presidential estate, there are easily enough treasures open to the public to make the citadel an essential conquest. Unlike Napoleon, who stayed here after his forces took Moscow in, you will need a ticket to enter. There are a number of ticket booths, the most important being located in Alexandrovsky Sad (on the west side of the Kremlin), which in itself is a great people watching place. Having bought your tickets, leave any large bags in the cloakroom located near the ticket office, under the gate. A Kremlin Territory ticket gets you into the site itself, along with all of the cathedrals and the more ancient buildings. To visit the Kremlin Armoury (where all the sparkly diamonds, jewels and so on are stored) you must buy a separate - and considerably more expensive - ticket, which will have an entrance time on it. This ticket can only be purchased before you enter the Kremlin. Note that some buildings - in particular the Patriarch s Palace - sometimes host special exhibitions, entrance for which you must pay extra. The tickets for special exhibitions can usually be bought at the entrance to the buildings in which they are held, although it is advisable to check before you enter the Kremlin. Inside the Kremlin Cathedral of the Archangel Michael A relative youngster on the Kremlin church scene, this cathedral was erected in and holds the tombs of Russian rulers from Ivan I to Tsar Ivan V. It also has more of an Italian renaissance feel to it with its Corinthian gables and turrets and white stonework. Annunciation Cathedral This imposing cathedral, where Russia s Tsars were christened and married, was built by Pskov architects in. The frescoes inside are considered to be some of the most valuable in Moscow given that prominent artists of the time including Andrey Rublyev (also buried here), Theophanes the Greek and Prokhor of Gorodetz all worked on them. Church of the Deposition of the Robes Taking its name from an ancient festival where the Virgin s robes are transferred from Palestine to Constantinople (now Istanbul), this is a more modest cathedral nestled in a corner. Built in - by artists from Pskov, this church notably has stained glass windows. Along with some fine icons, inside you can also find wooden sculptures from the th century. Cathedral of the Assumption The grandfather of all the Kremlin churches, the Assumption Cathedral is the oldest and the biggest. Built in by Italian architect Aristotle Fiorovanti, this is where Ivan the Terrible was crowned Emperor in before becoming a stable for Napoleon s horses in. Their soldiers made off with the chandeliers now hanging overhead, some weighing over tonnes. The cossacks brought them back after they caught up with the light-fingered Frenchmen. In the last Easter service was held here. Services resumed in 0. NEXT TO RED SQUARE Alexandrovsky Gardens The gardens in front of the Kremlin walls are an excellent to take a stroll and get down to some serious people watching as well as admire the sheer scale and immense size of the Kremlin walls and towers. The biggest essential sight of the gardens is the tomb of the unknown soldier near to the entrance to Red Square. A high-kicking guard change ceremony takes place here every hour in front of the eternal flame.qc-, Alexandrovsky sad, MAlexandrovsky Sad. Kremlin Armoury You need a separate ticket for the Armoury, the th Century museum purpose-built to house the nation s gob-smacking collection of gold, silver, arms and imperial clothes and carriages. Highlights of the collection are the giant Orlov diamond and the infamous and rarely glimpsed Faberge eggs. To prevent overcrowding, Armoury tickets can only be used after the time printed on them. They do not give access to the rest of the Kremlin. QС-, MAlexandrovsky Sad, tel. (+) 0, Open :00 - :00 Closed Thu. The Armoury Chamber has seances at.00,.00,.0,.0. Admission 00-00Rbl. Tickets can be purchased an hour before the seance at the Kremlin ticket office in Alexandrovsky sad. Lenin Mausoleum On display in various incarnations of his mausoleum since, this is where the waxy, bald and embalmed body of the founder of the Communist Party is. Visiting here is a no-nonsense event with guards posted at each corner to prod you forward should you halt at any stage during the viewing. No bags. No cameras. They ll search your pockets to make sure you don t sneak anything. Leave bags in the storage lockers before going through the metal detectors, he may be dead but you can t mess with him.qc-, Red Square, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+), Open :00 - :00. Closed Mon, Fri. Entrance is free. St. Basil s Cathedral (Pokrovsky Sobor) Standing magnificent at the head of Red Square is St. Basil s Cathedral. Russia s most recognisable building was built in to celebrate Ivan the Terrible s crucial defeat of the Khan of Kazan, a victory which secured Moscow s position as the region s dominant city. While the view from outside is spectacular and rightly famed, it is certainly also worth a visit inside. Visitors used to the vast open spaces of Western European cathedrals will be shocked to find a stone warren of small, intimate chapels, each decorated with countless icons and engravings and soaring in one direction only: upwards, to the height of the onion domes above. Russia s history is all about a country being simultaneously tugged towards the west and the east. A visit inside St Basil s gives an invaluable lesson on the importance and undoubted attractions of the latter.qc-, Red Square, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+) 0, www. Open :00 - :00. Admission 0Rbl. river cruises What to see A cruise along the Moscow-River is one of the best ways to see the city from its very centre, with unparalleled views of the sites on both banks. Casting off, we leave behind the Moscow International Business centre. Beside the pier is the Ukraina Hotel, the second tallest of Stalin s Seven Sisters. Across the river is the other White House, the house of the Russian government. A few minutes sailing takes us to the Novodevichy Convent. Under its walls, Tolstoy s Kitty and Levin of Anna Karenina met whilst skating, in reality, its cemetery houses the graves of Chekhov and Yeltsin and many others. Its pink and white baroque walls are faced by the thickening forest of the opposite bank, leading into Sparrow Hills park. The silhouette of a hammer and sickle peeks out above the treetops, a glimpse of the gargantuan structure of Moscow State University, the world s tallest educational building and the big sister of the seven. Passing Luzhniki Stadium, we reach the green banks of fashionable Gorky Park. At the diversion of the river into the Vodootvodny Canal stands the controversial statue to Peter the Great marking three hundred years of the Russian navy. Its creator, Georgian sculptor Zurab Tsereteli, also headed the reconstruction of the Church of Christ the Saviour opposite. Looking at its imposing domes, it s hard to believe that this was once a gigantic outdoor pool. On Bolotny Island, towering over the rainbow-coloured arches and golden domes of the St Nicholas church, is the House on the Embankment, built to house the Soviet elite. From the river we ve got perfect views of the Kremlin and the churches huddled inside it as we arrive at the heart of Moscow and perhaps Russia itself. Even after half a millennia St Basil s idiosyncratic domes are still breathtaking; legend has it that its architects were blinded to stop them making something so beautiful ever again. QA-, Taras Shevchenko nab., Hotel Ukraina pier, MKievskaya, tel. (+), www. From Pier Ukraina and from pier Gorky Park boats leave every day starting from :00. It is advisable to book tickets well in advance (tickets can also be bought online). Check the full schedule and prices online. PAUKW Moscow In Your Pocket June - July 0

20 What to see Churches and Monasteries Cathedral of Christ the Saviour This is what a new Russian Orthodox church ought to look like. It is so immense you ll be wondering how many blocks of dynamite the Soviets needed to get rid of the thing the first time around. That was in. This newly restored example came into being from until 000 and is a shiny beacon for the Russian Orthodox Church at home and a close replica of the original th Century cathedral built in honour of the victory over Napoleon. The sprawling cathedral houses a museum on the history of the site where you can see pictures of the giant swimming pool the Soviets built here and the huge Lenin topped skyscraper they had originally planned for. During excursions (minimum people) you can see the cathedral, museum and the view from the collonade. As it is a working place of worship women are expected to cover their heads and everyone should dress conservatively. No cameras or mobile phones should be used.qb-, Ul. Volkhonka, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+), Open :00 - :00. Mon :00 - :00. Admission free. Guided tours in English for groups for up to people,000rbl (pre-booking required call (+) ). Novodevichy Monastery Monastery or convent, this place occupies a very specific place in Russian history. On the grounds surrounded by the Kremlinesque walls, which were built to act as a fortress, are four cathedrals including the majestic fouronion globes of Smolensky Cathedral which dates back to. It was at Novodevichy that Peter the Great imprisoned his sister Sophia and executed her supporters from the Streltsy rebellion. Today it is a magnificent and peaceful cloister with an impressive icon collection. Be sure to look at the fascinating nearby cemetery too while you are here and take a stroll around the picturesque pond beyond the walls.qnovodevichy proezd, MSportivnaya, tel. (+). Open 0:00 - :00. Admission 00Rbl. Novospassky Monastery Situated on the river and surrounded by gardens, the walls of this working monastery date from the s. A quiet place, the brooding five-domed Cathedral of the Saviour was built in and attracts a healthy crowd of observers in the evening and has lovely frescoes. Women need to cover their heads and if wearing trousers or jeans they need to don a wrap around skirt as well.qe-, Krestyanskaya pl., MKrestyanskaya Zastava, tel. (+), www. Open 0:00-0:00. Admission free. Guided tours by prior arrangement. Modern Art Centres ArtPlay Thanks to the large building on site housing the British Design School in Moscow, this former tea factory has now become a hub of artistic activity. In amongst the various converted red brick factory buildings you will find numerous design studios and shops selling bespoke interior design works, as well as large temporary exhibition spaces and small private galleries. Furthermore Artplay also has its fair share of cool places to eat and drink such as the Art Clumba cafe/ restaurant and the quirky little roof bar Volna. One of the largest roofs of the complex also has a great cafe-bar with super views over the surrounding area.qul. Nizhnaya Syromyatnicheskaya, MKurskaya, tel. (+) 0 0, Open :00-0:00. Admission free. MAMM (Multimedia Art Museum Moscow) This new contemporary space focuses exclusively on photography and video art and regularly hosts great exhibitions many of which make particularly good use of the cleverly designed video exhibition rooms. The central hallway and stairwell is one of a kind for Moscow with its clean white lines and staircases, vaguely reminiscent of New York s Guggenheim or the MOMA. A great addition to Moscow s burgeoning contemporary art scene.qb-, Ul. Ostozhenka, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+) 00, ru/en. Open :00 - :00. Closed Mon. Admission 0-00Rbl. TAW Red October Chocolate Factory One of Moscow s most beloved manufacturers - the Red October Chocolate Factory, moved to a site further out of the city centre a few years ago and as the old building s conversion into a luxury residential complex slowed down, the artists moved in. The current residents includes the Lumiere brothers photography centre that regularly stages great retrospectives of international and local photographers from the modern age all the way back in to the early 0th Century. The Art Strelka design college is also located here and regularly has lectures and workshops as well as concerts on their outdoor stage. On the food/drink side, this place is very happening and at the weekend the area really fills up with party animals heading to one of the factory s many clubs.qc-, Bersenevskaya nab., MKropotkinskaya, Museums All-Russian Decorative Art Museum Hidden in a courtyard, this museum maintains more than pieces of decorative and folk art from all over Russia. There are several beautifully decorated tea sets, plates and figurines - the porcelain from the post-revolutionary Soviet period is especially interesting. Also featured are some traditional Russian clothes, toys, intricate wood baskets, embroidery and linens. The wood figurine carvings are diverse and mind-blowingly detailed. The museum also displays interiors and antique furniture taken from the apartments of the old Russian nobility in the th to 0th centuries. Various workshops for children and excursions in English are also available. The museum s frequent temporary exhibitions are also worth checking out.qc-, Delegatskaya ul., MTsvetnoy Bulvar, tel. (+) 0 0, Open :00 - :00, Thu :00 - :00, Sat :00 - :00, Sun :00 - :00. Closed Tue and last Mon of the month. Admission 0-00Rbl. Children till years old free entrance. NK Cosmonautics Museum Tucked under the huge monument to the Soviet Union s race to the stars is this museum (sadly only in Russian) of all things cosmos. There are models of satellites, original space suits from both side of the Atlantic, the interior of part of the Mir space station to explore, photos and documents from famous cosmonauts such as Yuri Gagarin and plenty of artworks relating to man s obsession with conquering space. The stuffed bodies of the first dogs in space, Belka and Strelka, sit proudly next to the tiny pods that they flew around the earth in. There s also a café serving space food and some -D shows (for which you have to pay extra).qpr. Mira, MVDNKh, tel. (+), Open :00 - :00, Thu :00 - :00. Closed Mon. Admission 0-00Rbl. Art Deco museum What to see Art Deco is the art style that spanned the boom of the roaring 0s and the bust of the Depression-ridden 0s. All aspects of life were influenced by it: design, fine art, decorative arts, fashion, film, photography, transport and product design. Finally, there is a museum in Moscow dedicated to this impactful art movement. The Art Deco Museum boasts an impressive collection of more than 00 sculptures, items of furniture and decorative art pieces that will take you right back to the 0s! The museum is not exactly centrally located but it is situated on the breath-taking Luzhnetsky Embankment - just an extremely pleasant -minute stroll from the Vorobyovy Gory metro station.qf-, Luzhnetskaya nab. /, bldg., MVorobyovy Gory, tel. (+), Open :00 - :00. Closed Mon. Admission 0-00Rbl. Children up to years of age free of charge. PUNW Great Patriotic War Museum - Dedicated to the Great Patriotic War or World War II as it is known in the west, this museum opened in on the 0th anniversary of the Great Victory. The museum houses a set of evocative battle dioramas on the ground floor, with excellent explanations of the scenes in English. Immediately as you enter, you see the Commanders Hall and Grand Staircase leading up to the Hall of Glory, a solemn memorial space. Further along there is the exhibition hall with exhibits about the different battles and parties involved.qul. Bratyev Fonchenko, MPark Pobedy, tel. (+), Open :00 - :0. Thursday :00-0:00. Closed Mon and last Thu of the month. Admission 00-0Rbl. N Moscow In Your Pocket June - July 0

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