Dressmaking Grade 9. LEARNING MATERIAL NO. 1 Name: Section: Teacher: Date: TYPES OF SLEEVES. Prepared by: Ms. Natalie Jane F. Fiestada.

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1 LEARNING MATERIAL NO. 1 Name: Section: Teacher: Date: OBJECTIVES: At the end of this learning module, I should be able to: 1. Identify the differences of each types of sleeves; 2. Draft pattern of different type of sleeves accurately; 3. Create different types of sleeves; and 4. Show creativity and workmanship on my work. TYPES OF SLEEVES Sleeves are used to cover the arms. The sleeves for women s have different styles and cut. Measurements Needed: a. Armhole b. Arm girth c. Sleeve Length 1. Set-in Sleeves This sleeve is done the tailor s way and is based on your sleeve foundation pattern. How to draft the pattern: 1. Draw a perpendicular line. 2. A is corner of two lines. 3. AB is 5 inches downward. 4. AC is length of sleeve. Draw a horizontal line for A, B, C. 5. AD is ½ of armhole measurement to the right 6. CE is ½ of arm girth to the right. Connect DE. 7. F is the corner of B and D. Connect A and F. 8. AF measurement = G 2 9. AG measurement = H + 1/2 upward GF measurement= I and ¼ inch 2 downward. Connect A, H, and G with a curve line. So with G, I, and F. 2. Make slashes from top to bottom. 3. Spread the slashes according to the desired fullness. 4. Add 3 cms. from A upward. 5. Trace the sleeve with the flared effect from A and it should gradually decrease in size up to B. 2. Gathered at the Bottom How to draft the pattern: 1. Use the sleeve foundation pattern as the base. 2. Make slashes from top to bottom. 3. Spread the slashes according to the desired fullness. 4. Add 1 ½ cms. from C downward. 5. Trace the sleeve with the flared effect from C and it should gradually decrease in size up to E. 3. Gathered at Top and Bottom 2. Puff Sleeves A puff sleeve has fullness so that it flares. Fullness is the added width to give a flared effect. There are three variations of the puffed sleeve. 1. Gathered on Top-it is done by adding fullness to the upper portion of the sleeve. How to draft the pattern: 6. Use the foundation pattern as base. 7. Make slashes from top to bottom. 8. Spread the slashes according to the desired fullness. 9. Add 3 cms. from A upward and 1 ½ cms. from C downward. 10. Trace the sleeve with the flared effect decreasing the size until it reaches B and E How to draft the pattern: 1. Use the foundation pattern as base. Page 1

2 3. Bell Sleeves A long sleeve fitted from the shoulder to elbow and gently flared from elbow onward. How to draft the pattern: 1. Use the foundation pattern as base. 2. Draw vertical lines along the grainline (from shoulder point to hem), and again on each side of the grainline, dividing the sleeve into four relatively even sections. 3. Cut along those lines (use a "slash and spread" technique). 4. Spread the pieces apart with about 1" between each section. 5. Then add about 1" on each side seam for a bit more flare. Mark a point roughly half way between the underarm and the hem (this is the elbow area) and draw a line flaring away from the side seam 1" at the hem. (The red dashed line is the original side seam of the blouse sleeve). This is part of what makes the sleeve a bell rather than just a wide sleeve. 4. Butterfly Sleeves this has the sleeve cut with the front and back bodice continuously cut and sewn. 3. Cut out the front and do the same procedure with the back bodice. 4. Add an extra 1/2 inch (for seam allowance) around the curve and shoulders of the shirt. 5. Cut out the fabric. 6. Sew bias facing. 7. Place FRONT and BACK piece together with RIGHT sides together (making sure your necklines are lined up evenly). Sew right along the two shoulders, using a 1/2 inch seam allowance. 8. Stitch the hem all the way around the shirt, 1/2 from the edge. 9. Sew a seam right along the shoulder seam. 10. Place pins right along both sides, pinning the shirt front and back together. You don t want the pins too close to the body leave some room, it should be loose. Also, make sure that the two top pins on each side start at the same point. 11. Sew a seam in place of both sets of pins. 12. If you want to add an elastic at empire waist, measure empire waist which will be found right below your bust. Then, whatever that measurement, add another 1.5 inches to that number. Then divide that by 2 and cut two pieces with that length. 13. Turn the shirt inside out and then mark where each elastic end will be attached on the front of the shirt first. 14. Keep your elastic evenly pulled and sew a zigzag stitch. 5. Angel Sleeves - The Angel Sleeve dress is pure classic the simplest of forms for a little girl--with full gathers falling from the neck and a flutter of a sleeve. Make it full or blouse length, and solid or with contrasting panels. How to Draft the Pattern: 1. Start tracing along the neckline of the front bodice pattern and extend the shoulder up to the desired length of the sleeve. 2. Elbow location is more suitable and starts drawing line downward. As you draw downward, angle it in a bit towards the bottom of the shirt. But don t angle it in too much because you want some width for the butterfly effect. When you reach the bottom (or down to the length you want your shirt), round the corner and then keep the bottom of the shirt rounded slightly not straight across. You can stop here, with only half the shirt outlined. How to draft the pattern Page 2

3 ASSEMBLING THE SLEEVES 1. In assembling the sleeves, the first step to be made is to staystitch entire cap sleeves leaving 3 length of thread on both ends. 2. Pull thread to ease the sleeve cap. Stitch the underarm of sleeve and fold the hem. 3. Insert the sleeve into the armhole with the right side together. Match the notch of the sleeve with the shoulder. Stitch with a curved seam. 4. Pull out the sleeve and check if the sleeve fits the armhole smoothly. 5. Insert the sleeve into the armhole with the right side together. Match the notch of the sleeve with the shoulder. Stitch with a curved seam. 6. Pull out the sleeve and check if the sleeve fits the armhole smoothly. 7. Attach the sleeve on the side. Do the same on the other sleeve. 8. Put out the right side of the blouse. Check the sleeve for smoothness of workmanship. Name: Section: Teacher: Date: I. IDENTIFICATION: SELF-CHECK NO. 1 Direction: Write the word of the correct answer on the space provided. 1. This type of sleeve has fullness so that it flares. 2. This is the added width to give a flared effect. 3. This variation of puff sleeve is done by adding fullness to the upper portion of the sleeve. 4. A long sleeve fitted from the shoulder to elbow and gently flared from elbow onward. 5. This has sleeve cut with front and back bodice continuously cut and sewn. 6. This variation of puff sleeve is done by adding fullness to the lower portion of the sleeve. 7. The following measurements are needed to draft the sleeve foundation pattern,, and? 8. This type of sleeve is done the tailor s way and is based on sleeve foundation pattern. ACTIVITY NO. 1 II. DRAFT THE SLEEVE FOUNDATION PATTERN AT THE BACK OF THIS PAPER USING THE MEASUREMENT BELOW. Sleeve Length: 7 Armhole: 6 Arm girth: 4 PROJECT NO. 1 III. GIVEN THE FOUNDATION PATTERN FOR THE SLEEVE, FRONT AND BACK BODICE, SUBMIT DIFFERENT TYPES OF SLEEVES AND ATTACH IT ON A BOND PAPER. IT WILL BE PART OF YOUR PORTFOLIO. A. Set-in B. Puff C. Bell D. Butterfly E. Angel Page 3

4 LEARNING MATERIAL NO. 2 Name: Section: Teacher: Date: OBJECTIVES: At the end of this learning module, I should be able to: 1. Name the differences of each types of collars; 2. Draft pattern of different type of collars accurately; 3. Create different types of collars; and 4. Show creativity and workmanship on my work. TYPES OF COLLARS Collars are bands attached over necklines. Sometimes they are cut as part of the front bodice. Measurements Needed: a. Neck 3. Sailors Collar the shape of this collar is derived from the sailor s uniform. 1. Sports Collar this is a narrow stand-up collar fitted closely to the neck. How to Draft the Pattern: 1. A-B = 6 cms. 2. A-D = ½ neck measurement ( use the neck measurement from the drafted pattern-front and back neckline) 3. B-C = AD 4. B-F ¼ neck measurement 5. C-G = 1 cms. upward 6. D-H = ½ cms. 7. D-I = ¼ cms. 8. Connect E to I and G-F with a hip curve. 9. Connect G to H with a straight line extending it such that EI will be extended for both lines to meet. Mark the meeting point J. 2. Peter Pan Collar- this collar has a stand at the back which gradually lessens until the collar lies flat at the base of the throat. How to Draft the Pattern: 1. Get the shape of the neck hole of the front and back bodice pattern. 2. Add 1.5 cms. as overlap at the outer shoulder of both patterns (front and back bodice) without changing the neckline position. 3. Make the style line for the front of the collar and continue up to the back. Measure 6 cms. for the center fold at the back. 4. Cut the pattern. How to Draft the Pattern: 1. Lay flat the front and back bodice pattern. 2. Design the neckline of the front. 3. Make a slanted line up to the end of the shoulder. From this line, draw another line about 15 cms. towards the back. Make another line towards the center back. Thus, all these lines will form half of a rectangle. 4. Flat Collar- lies flat over the neckline and shoulder. How to Draft the Pattern: 1. Lay flat both the front and back bodice pattern. 2. Trace the neckline and mark the center fold with a straight line. 3. Label the front and the back. 4. Make the style line for the collar. 5. Cut the pattern. HOW TO MAKE COLLARS 1. Place Pelon on top of the wrong side of fabric. 2. Enclose seam the lower portion. (E to E). 3. Start sewing from B to D. 4. Place threads in between the tip of the collar and stitch twice, then pivot, leaving the needle. Then insert the other half of the thread. Rotate the thread together. ATTACHING THE COLLAR 1. Match and sew the edges of the collar with the right sides facing each other. 2. Cut edges at seam allowance and trim it to 1cm. 3. Invert the collar to the right side and attach it to the neckline of the blouse by basting. 4. Baste the collar to the bias facing. Then sew. Page 4

5 Learning Module No.1 Dressmaking Grade 9 5. Slash seam allowance and understitch the facing. Understitching is sewing on the top side of the facing to make it lie perfectly flat. 6. If a facing is used, attach it in the same way as the facing was sewed on the collar. The only difference is that this time it is sewed directly on the neckline without a collar under it. However, if you are using a false bias, you have to fold the facing as you sew around the neckline. Allow a distance of about 6 cms. from every fold to make up for stretching, since a false bias does not stretch like the true bias. Name: Section: Teacher: Date: SELF-CHECK NO. 2 I. Multiple Choice Direction: Encircle the letter of the correct answer. 1. This is a narrow stand-up collar fitted closely to the neck. a. Flat Collar b. Sports Collar c. Peter Pan Collar d. Sailor s Collar 2. This type of collar lies flat over the neckline and shoulder. a. Flat Collar b. Sports Collar c. Peter Pan Collar d. Sailor s Collar 3. It is sewing on the top side of the facing to make it lie perfectly flat. a. Understitch b. Hemstitch c. Staystitch d. Backstitch 4. In drafting pattern for collar, what is the distance between point A to point B? a. ¼ neck measurement b. 6 centimeters c. ½ neck measurement d. 1 centimeter upward 5. This collar has a stand at the back which gradually lessens until the collar lies flat at the base of the throat. a. Flat Collar b. Sports Collar c. Peter Pan Collar II. d. Sailor s Collar ESSAY. Answer at the back. What is the difference of each collar from each other? (5pts.) III. IV. ACTIVITY NO. 2 DRAFT THE FOUNDATION PATTERN FOR THE COLLAR AT THE BACK OF THIS PAPER USING THE MEASUREMENT BELOW. 1. Neckhole = 16 PROJECT NO. 2 SUBMIT DIFFERENT TYPES OF COLLARS AND ATTACH IT ON A BOND PAPER. IT WILL BE PART OF YOUR PORTFOLIO. a. Flat Collar b. Peter Pan Collar c. Sailor s Collar d. Sports Collar Page 5

6 Learning Module No.1 Dressmaking Grade 9 LEARNING MATERIAL NO. 3 Name: Section: Teacher: Date: OBJECTIVES: At the end of this learning module, I should be able to: 1. Name the differences of each types of skirts; 2. Draft pattern of different type of skirts; 3. Create different types of skirts; and 4. Show creativity and workmanship on my work. TYPES OF SKIRTS Skirt is a kind of free-hanging garment extending from the waist down. Measurements Needed: a. Waistline b. Second Hips c. Length of Waist to Hips d. Length of Waist to Knee 1. Pencil Skirt- These are fitted down to the knee. A pencil skirt is a slim-fitting skirt with a straight, narrow cut. Generally the hem falls to, or just below, the knee and is tailored for a close fit. It is named for its shape: long and slim like a pencil. 11. Find your top dart point. Measure 1 cm to each side and mark For back pattern of the skirt, Repeat steps 1-9 exactly like your skirt front. 13. On step number 10 your dart measurement will have an additional 1 downward 14. On step number 11, instead of measuring 1 cm to each side of top dart point, you are going to measure 1.5 cm for the back dart. Connect dart points as you did on the skirt front. 2. Balloon Skirt- A skirt cut in sections to make one or more circles with a hole for the waist, so the skirt is very full but hangs smoothly from the waist without darts, pleats, or gathers. 1. Draw a perpendicular line. 2. Mark corner point A. 3. A-B waist to hip measurement 4. A-C skirt length Draw a horizontal lines for B, and C 5. A-D ¼ waistline measurement plus 1 inches (for dart allowance) 6. D-E is 1 cm upward 7. B-F is ¼ of second hip measurement +1/2 inch to the right 8. Connect E to F with a hip curve. 9. For a true pencil skirt, the skirt should curve in from the knees towards the bottom hem. Measure 2in (6cm) inwards from the outer bottom edge of the rectangle. Mark this point out. Gently curve the skirt inwards towards this mark. 10. Find half-way point of your waistline or the bust distance. Mark it. This will be the top dart point. Mark this top dart point on your hipline as well (this will be your bottom dart point). Draw a straight line between the top dart mark and the dart mark on your hipline. 1. Measure your waist. 2. Fold the fabric 4 folds. 3. Divide the waist measurement by Round off the measurement and draw a quarter-circle with radius all the way around. 5. From the quarter-circle measure the skirt length + 3cm. 3. Pleated Skirt-Pleats are folds of fabric that provide fullness. They vary in size depending on the degree of fullness you want. They may be pressed or underpressed and stitched or understitched. The different ways of folding the fabric results to the various kinds of pleats namely; knife, box and inverted. Pleats can be placed in other parts of the garment not only on the skirt. Remember that a pleat is twice its size; Page 6

7 thus, a waistline of 50 cms. needs 100 cms. of fabric. The total material will be 150 centimeters. a. Knife Pleats - are uniformly folded and they follow one direction. To make this, fold the desired pleats until the measurement of the waistline is produced. b. Box Pleats - these are formed by two pleats following opposite directions leaving a certain distance between them as the center. c. Inverted Pleats is made by making two pleats face each other towards a center line. The wrong side forms a box plant. 4. Gathered Skirt these are used not only in skirts but also in full sleeves and yoke lines. To make gathers: 1. Measure the skirt length. 2. Transfer the measurement to the fabric by marking 2 cms at the top of the fabric then measure the skirt length and then 3 cms. 3. Zigzag the raw edges. 4. Staystitch the 2cm allowance. Pull the thread for shirring. 5. Push the fabric until the desired fullness or until the measurement of the waistline is achieved. 6. Fold the hemline. 5. Peplum Skirt - a short full flounce or an extension of a garment below the waist, covering the hip. How to Make Peplum Skirt 1. Cut a fabric base on Pencil Skirt pattern. Cut all the way around, going up about 3 inches for the waist band. 2. Cut out the 3 inches you cut for the band in step 1.Set aside. Sew down the sides of the skirt right sides facing each other. 3. To make the peplum, fold down the remaining fabric on the folded side of your knit. Once folded down, bring the right piece together with the middle of the fold so that it forms a triangle. 4. Cut an arc or semi-circle on the bottom of your triangle. 5. Cut an arc 2 from the tip of your triangle. Open up the triangle/peplum and hold it up against the waist of your skirt. If its too small, fold back the triangle and cut in 1 intervals until the peplum matches the waist of the skirt. 6. You can hem the bottom of the peplum if you want a polished look. If not, you can leave as is. Take the peplum and fit it inside the skirt top with the right sides facing each other. Then, take the waist band that you made earlier and fit it over the skirt and peplum sandwich. Again, ensure your right sides are facing each other. Pin all the way around. Sew all three together 7. Fold in the top of your waist band half way down and sew all the way around. You can also serge the edges before you fold down. 8. The last step is to hem the bottom. Again you can serge before you hem or just hem with raw edges. 6. Bubble Skirt The bubble skirt consists of an outer skirt which is gathered onto a lining. Bubble garments look best in rather light fabrics such as (double) gauze and lawn. How to Make Bubble Skirt 1. Cut a rectangular piece of the fabric for main fabric of skirt. Width equals waist measurement x.5 (if your waist is 40 inches you will need to add 20 inches making it 60 inches). If you are using a lighter, silkier fabric for the main fabric you can so Page 7

8 much as double the waist measurement for the width. Depending on how textured you want it to be. Height equals length plus 3 inches. Length measurement is from the waist down to however low you want the skirt to be. 2. Cut a rectangular piece of silky fabric for lining. Width equals Hip measurement plus a half inch to an inch for seems. Height equals length minus one inch. 3. Cut elastic. Elastic length equals waist measurement minus one inch. Name: Section: Teacher: Date: SELF-CHECK NO. 3 I. Draw the type of skirt describe on each statement. 1. This skirt is uniformly folded and they follow one direction. 2. These are formed by two pleats following opposite directions leaving a certain distance between them as the center. 3. This is a slim-fitting skirt with a straight, narrow cut. 4. A skirt cut in sections to make one or more circles with a hole for the waist, so the skirt is very full but hangs smoothly from the waist without darts, pleats, or gathers. 5. A short full flounce or an extension of a garment below the waist, covering the hip. ACTIVITY NO. 3 II. III. DRAFT THE FOUNDATION PATTERN FOR THE SKIRT AT THE BACK OF THIS PAPER USING THE MEASUREMENT BELOW. Waistline: 20 2 nd Hips: 23 Length: 12 Waist to hip measurement: 4 PROJECT NO. 3 GIVEN THE FOUNDATION PATTERN FOR THE SLEEVE, FRONT AND BACK BODICE, AND THE PROCEDURE, SUBMIT DIFFERENT TYPES OF SLEEVES AND ATTACH IT ON A BOND PAPER. IT WILL BE PART OF YOUR PORTFOLIO. a. Pencil b. Balloon c. Pleated d. Gathered e. Peplum f. Bubble Page 8

9 LEARNING MATERIAL NO. 4 Name: Section: Teacher: Date: OBJECTIVES: At the end of this learning module, I should be able to: 1. Identify the uses of different types of fasteners 2. Apply attaching different types of fasteners on fabric; and 3. Show creativity and workmanship on my work. TYPES OF FASTENERS Fasteners are used to close opening of your garments. In choosing fasteners, you have to consider the kind of fabric, the style of the garment, and the location of the fastener. The most commonly used fasteners are the one described here. 1. Buttons and Buttonholes- mark the location of buttons before attaching them. The position can be located by lapping the edges of the opening. They should correspond with the buttonholes. 6. At the end of the slash, make the buttonhole stitches form a fan pattern but they should have the same length as those in the edges. 7. Continue making buttonhole stitches up to the other end. Make a bar by stitching across two or more times in the same position. The stitches should be in line with the buttonhole stitches on both edges. Fasten the thread on the wrong side. 2. Snap these are used when there is very little strain on the opening. They may be placed on the front, back and side opening. Snaps have two parts; the half containing the ball and the other half containing the socket. How to sew the button on garment: 1. Take one or two small stitches at the point where the button will be attached using double thread. 2. Hold a pin across the top of the button and stitch over it. Sew many times over the pin through the fabric. 3. Remove the pin and bring the needle between the button and fabric. 4. Wind the thread under the button several times to make a shank. A shank is needed to provide thickness of the fabric at the buttonhole when the garment is closed. The length of the shank should be the same as the thickness of the buttonhole. 5. Fasten the thread securely. How to make handworked buttonholes: 1. Mark the position on the right side of the garment. 2. Make a rectangle around the marked line by stitching it. The stitching serves as guide for the depth of the buttonhole. 3. Cut on the buttonhole using sharp scissors. 4. Before you begin to sew make sure that the thread is enough to sew the buttonhole. 5. Begin sewing close to the corner or starting point. Use buttonhole stitch throughout. See to it that they are parallel to each other in orderly rows. How to sew the snaps on garment: 1. Mark the location of snap 2. Take a small stitch in the marked location. 3. Sew half of the snap containing the ball using overcast or buttonhole stitch. See to it that no stitches show on the right side of the cloth. Do these until you finish sewing all the holes then fasten the thread on the wrong side. 4. To find the location of the center of the corresponding half containing the socket, press the half containing the ball. Mark the center. 5. Sew the socket so that it fits the ball. 3. Hook and Eye these are used on parts of garment subject to strain. The amount of strain and the weight of the fabric determine the size of the hook as well as the number of hooks to be used. There are two shapes of the eyes, either straight or round. Straight eye is usually used when openings overlap while the round eye is used when edges meet. Page 9

10 3. Separating Zippers - their lengths vary from inches. These have metal teeth only. They open on both ends. How to sew hook and eye in garment: 1. Place the hook on the underside of the overlap or at the edge of the opening. 2. Sew first one ring of the hook using overcast or buttonhole stitch, then sew the other ring. Next, sew the bill of the hook taking two or three stitches. Be sure no stitches are seen on the right side. 3. On the underlap opposite of the hook, sew the eye and fasten the thread when finished. 4. Zipper there are different types of zippers. They may have a metal teeth or synthetic coil, which are seen on both sides, others have covered teeth. 5. Magnetic Tape - Hook-and-loop fasteners, hookand-pile fasteners, or touch fasteners (colloquially known as Velcro) consist of two components: typically, two lineal fabric strips (or, alternatively, round "dots" or squares) which are attached (e.g., sewn, adhered, etc.) to the opposing surfaces to be fastened. The first component features tiny hooks; the second features even smaller and "hairier" loops. When the two components are pressed together, the hooks catch in the loops and the two pieces fasten or bind temporarily during the time that they are pressed together. When separated, by pulling or peeling the two surfaces apart, the strips make a distinctive "ripping" sound. It is especially popular in clothing where it replaces buttons or zippers and as a shoe fastener for children who have not yet learned to tie shoelaces and for those who choose Velcro over laces. Touch fasteners are used in adaptive clothing, which is clothing designed for people with physical disabilities, the elderly, and the infirm who may experience difficulty dressing them due to an inability to manipulate closures, such as buttons and zippers. Zippers are classified into 1. Dress Zippers both ends of the zipper are closed. These zippers are from inches long. 2. Shirt and Neckline Zippers one end of the zipper is open. The length ranges from 4-30 inches. Page 10

11 Name: Section: Teacher: Date: SELF-CHECK NO. 4 I. Draw a heart if the statement is correct while a broken heart if the statement is incorrect. 1. Snaps are used when there is very little strain on the opening. 2. Fasteners are used to close closing of your garments. 3. Dress Zippers have both ends of the zipper are closed. These zippers are from inches long. 4. Place the hook on the topside of the overlap or at the edge of the opening. 5. Snaps have two parts; the half containing the ball and the other half containing the basket. 6. In making handworked buttonholes, make a rectangle around the marked line by stitching it. The stitching serves as guide for the depth of the buttonhole. 7. Shirt and Neckline Zippers have their lengths vary from inches. These have metal teeth only. They open on both ends. 8. Straight eye is usually used when edges meet while the round eye is used when openings overlap. 9. A shank is needed to provide thickness of the fabric at the buttonhole when the garment is closed. 10. Fasten the thread on the right side when making handworked buttonholes. PROJECT NO. 4 II. Sew different types of fasteners on fabric. a. button and buttonholes b. snap c. hook and eye d. zipper Page 11

12 LEARNING MATERIAL NO. 5 Name: Section: Teacher: Date: OBJECTIVES: At the end of this learning module, I should be able to: 1. Identify different types of pockets, facing, and hem finishes; 2. Apply attaching different types of pockets, facing, and hem finishes; 3. Value the importance of pockets in daily life. TYPES OF POCKETS Pocket is a small bag or pouch attached to a garment used as a place for money, handkerchiefs, or wallet. Sometimes pocket are used for decoration. 1. Patch Pocket- attached at the right side of the garment. This is found in blouses, polo shirts, jackets, pants, dresses, and skirts. How to Make Patch Pocket 1. Cut 5 x6 size of fabric and mark 3cms top hem and 1cm side seam allowances. 2. Fold top edge 0.5 cm to the wrong side and stitch. 3. Fold down the top edge along the 3cm allowance to the right side. 4. Stitch along seam allowance or fold line. 5. Trim and turn top edge on the right side. 6. Fold each side of the pocket. 7. Miter the corners. 8. Position and pin the pocket on the garment. 9. Topstitch the pocket leaving 1/8 allowance from the edge. 2. Seam Pocket- placed inside the garment. and standard 2.5mm stitch length. Complete for all 4 pieces (2 front and 2 back; if having a pocket on each side). 3. Open the Pocket out (away from the body of the garment) and press the seam towards the Pocket. 4. Finish the seam using an overlocker or zigzag stitch along the pocket opening and side seam area. The rest of the seam will be finished as one with the completed pocket at the end. See point 8 for further details and alternative options. 5. Place the back and front RIGHT sides together. Match the seams together, above and below the Pocket. Stitch 5/8 (1.5cm) along the side seam of the garment. DO NOT sew over the pocket opening. Sew the garment in 2 steps; between the Pocket notch and the hem, and the Pocket notch and the underarm. Back tack at the start and end of the seam. 6. Next stitch around the Pocket itself, start and stop at the stitching line joining the garment pieces together. Sew a 5/8 (1.5cm) seam allowance around the pocket in a circular motion REMEMBER no square corners! 7. Neaten the raw edges on the pocket with an overlocker or zigzag machine stitch. Alternatively if you are adding a lining don t waste the time! With this example both seam allowances were overlocked together on the original garment, so for continuity the seam was overlocked from the underarm down, around the pocket, finishing at the hem. This was pressed to the front with the pocket. 3. Welt Pocket - Welt pockets are a great option when you want to add a pocket to a garment without the added bulk of a pocket flap, for example on slim-fitting pants or the front of a blazer. How to Make Seam Pocket 1. Place the pocket on the RIGHT side of the garment, RIGHT sides together, pocket facing in towards the garment. Match the tailors tacks / notches together. Pin in place. 2. Machine stitch the pocket in place between the notches, back tack at both ends. Use a 3/8 (1cm) seam allowance How to Make Welt Pocket 1. For each pocket, you'll need a welt (this should measure the length of your pocket Page 12

13 plus 1/2 inch and double the width of your desired welt plus 1 inch), two pocket pieces, matching thread, contrasting thread, and tailor's chalk or a water erasable marking pen. 2. To begin, fold the welt in half lengthwise, right sides together, and sew the short ends together with a 1/4 inch seam allowance. 3. Clip the top corners of the welt to reduce bulk. 4. Turn and press. 5. Using a contrasting color thread, baste the welt together 1/2 inch from the raw edge. 6. With contrasting thread, baste a 1/4 inch seam on the top edge of pocket piece A. 7. Mark the placement of the pocket opening on the right side of your garment with chalk or a marking pen. The opening should be equal to the finished size of the welt. Mark the middle of the placement with a horizontal line. 8. On the right side of your garment, line up the raw edge of the welt with the center line. With the right side down, line up the basted edge of pocket piece A on the top half of the center line. Pin the welt and pocket piece in place. 9. Stitch the welt in place along the contrasting stitching line. Stitch the pocket in place along the contrasting stitching line. Remove the basting stitches. 10. On the wrong side of the garment, cut through the center line, stopping 1/2 inch from either end. Clip the ends into a Y shape. The triangles will be stitched down later to secure the pocket. 11. Push the pocket through and adjust to lay flat. Press. Turn the welt up and press. 12. With the right side down, sew pocket piece B to the welt along the raw edge. 13. Fold the fabric back and sew the triangles to the pocket (backstitch a couple of times for a strong seam). If your fabric is particularly bulky, use the zipper foot to get as close as possible to the bottom of the triangle. 14. Sew the pocket together and finish the edges. Pinking the edges is the quickest option and won't add any extra bulk to the pocket. 15. On the right side of the garment, hand stitch the short edges of the welt to the garment. TYPES OF FACING AND INTERFACING 2. Extended Facing it is found in polo shirts front opening, blouses, blazers, and vest. It is 2 ½ o 3 inches wide for the blouse or polo shirt with sports collar or standing collar 3. Bias Facing to do this, cut a bias strip four times desired width plus 1/4 plus 2 for finishing the ends. Double fold the bias and place on the right side of the garment with 1 extending beyond the closing edges and sew. Clip the seam allowances and turn to remove bulkiness. Turn the folded bias on the wrong side and baste. Top stitch. Finally lock the closing edges with a hood and eye. This is used to finish the waistline of the skirt without a band. It is also used in finishing the neckline and armhole or arm girth of a blouse. Interfacing gives shape to buttonholes, collars, lapels and waistbands of garments. To do this, pin or baste the interfacing on top of the wrong side of the 2 pars of fabric. The interfacing could be of the same materials or pelon, truvenized cloth or coco. HEM FINISHES Hem finish is a finish made by folding the lower edge of skirts, blouses, sleeves and other parts of a garment. 1. Seam Tape or Binding this prevents raveling and gives a smooth appearance to hems. The common materials used are commercial bias made of silk, cotton and ribbons. Facing do much good for the look and comfort of garments. The purpose of a facing is to neatly finish and conceal raw edges by turning it to the wrong side of the garment. Facing is made beautifully if it lies flat and smooth. 1. Fitted Facing it is found in necklines and armholes. It is trace on the necklines and armholes and is cut 2 inches wide. Page 13

14 2. Stitched and Overcast the hem is invisible from the outside, stitched securely without bulk. Stitch 1/4 from raw edge using overcast edge. Using this stitching as guide, turn the edge back 1/4 and blind hem. 4. Turned Under-this is used in light and medium weight washable fabrics, on sheers and limp hems. To do this turn in the raw edge 1/4 and stitch close to the fold. 3. Stitched and Pinked an effective finish for fabrics which do no ravel. 1/4 of fabric is stitched from the free raw and the edge is pinked and hemstitched. 5. Zigzag finished edge this is an effective finish for fabrics that easily ravel. To do this, stitch 1/4 from the zigzag edge and hemstitch Name: Section: Teacher: Date: SELF-CHECK NO. 5 I. Draw and define the three different types of pockets. II. Identify the pictures below. Page 14

15 PROJECT NO. 4 III. IV. Sew different types of pockets on a fabric. a. patch b. seam c. welt Sew the different types of hem finishes. Page 15

16 REFERENCES: Bell Sleeve retrieved from Clothing Patterns 101 retrieved from Easy Peplum Skirt retrieved from The Circle Skirt retrieved from Page 16