ESSE Cooking Stove OPERATING & INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS MODEL: CS1

Transcription

1 ESSE Cooking Stove OPERATING & INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS MODEL: CS1

2 INTRODUCTION We are pleased that you have chosen an ESSE cooking stove. We would ask you to read the following instructions very carefully. Correctly installed and operated, your ESSE cooking stove will give satisfactory service for many years. We feel certain that you will enjoy the warmth and comfort of your ESSE cooking stove and, perhaps more importantly, you will more than enjoy the superb quality of the cooking. CONTENTS OPERATING Safety Notes Page 2 Your cooking stove Page 3 Lighting and Controlling the Fire Page 4 Correct Running Temperatures Page 5 Extended Burning Page 6 Types of Fuel Page 6 Operating the Oven and Hob Page 6 Cleaning the cooking stove Page 7 INSTALLATION Chimney and Flue Information Page 9 Flue Draught Reading Page 10 Installing the cooking stove, Positioning and Flue Connection Page 11 OPERATING INSTRUCTIONSS SAFETY NOTES Properly installed, operated and maintained, this appliance will not emit fumes into the dwelling. However occasional fumes from de-ashing and re-fuelling may occur. Persistent fume emission is potentially dangerous and must not be tolerated. If fume emission does persist, open doors and windows to ventilate the room. Let the fire burn out or eject and safely dispose of fuel from the appliance. Once the fire is cold, check the flue and chimney for blockages and clean if required. Do not attempt to relight the fire until the cause of the fume emission has been identified and corrected. Seek expert advice if necessary. Do not fit an extractor fan in the same room as the appliance. An adequate air supply for combustion and ventilation is essential. Air openings provided for this purpose must not be restricted. It is important that flue ways are cleaned frequently and the chimney swept regularly. Also the cooking stove must be maintained in good mechanical order. Regular sweeping means at least once per year for smokeless fuel and a minimum of twice per year for other fuels. If the chimney was previously used for an open fire, it is possible that the higher flue gas temperatures generated by the cooking stove may loosen deposits that were firmly adhered to the inner surface of the chimney and cause blockage of the fluepipe. We recommend that in such a situation a second sweeping of the chimney should be carried out within one month of regular use of the cooking stove after installation. Should it be likely that children, aged or infirm people approach the fire, then a fireguard should be used. Avoid the use of aerosol sprays in the vicinity of the cooking stove when it is in operation. Warning! The front of the cooking stove becomes very hot when in use. Do not place towels on the handrail when the cooking stove is alight. 2

3 YOUR COOKING STOVE The cooking stove - Fig.1 Hob lids Hob 85mm Flue centre Secondary air control (left to open) Loading door Oven door Damper control (pull out to open) 900mm Ash door Flue access door Primary air control (left to open) 271mm (feet) 900mm 600mm (Top casting) Figure 1 shows the cooking stove and its controls. The large glass door on the left is the loading door through which the fire is lighted and refuelled. The small door at the bottom on the left is the ash door. The large door to the right of the cooking stove is the oven and the small door at the bottom right is the oven flue access door. Note: Ordinary bituminous house coal is not recommended and must not be burned in smoke control areas. Burning bituminous house coal will result in a sooty cooking stove and chimney, and the cooking stove glass will require regular cleaning. Pure Petcoke should also be avoided as the high temperatures this fuel can produce may damage the cooking stove. Included inside your cooking stove is a multi purpose-operating tool for lifting the ash pan, adjusting the primary and secondary air supply and opening the doors. The cooking stove is suitable for burning wood and smokeless solid fuels. Operating tool - Fig.2 Use this to remove the ash pan Use this to open the doors Use this to adjust the damper control and air controls 3

4 LIGHTING AND CONTROLLING THE FIRE Firebox parts - Fig.3 Alternative flue bar positions - Fig.4 Back bricks Baffle Grates Fuel placed at the rear of the firebox Fuelbar fits into any of the grate slots Ashpan Side bricks Before lighting ensure that all the internal components are in the correct position. (See Figure 3 above). Open the ash door on the bottom left of the cooking stove by inserting the operating tool (See Figure 2 on page 3) into the handle slot and turning it in an anti-clockwise direction. Figure 1 on page 3 shows the primary air control lever on the left. Push the lever left to open and right to close. To light the cooking stove the primary air control should be fully open. Open the loading door by lifting the handle either manually or using the operating tool. Figure 1 shows the secondary air control to the left and the damper control to the right. As with the primary air control, the secondary air control lever should be pushed left to open and right to close. The damper control is open when the knob is pulled out and closed when it is pushed in. To light the cooking stove the secondary air control should be fully open and the damper control pulled out. This will allow fumes to escape directly up the flue whilst the cooking stove warms up. Place some tightly rolled paper on top of some crumpled paper on the base towards the back of the cooking stove. On top of this, place some small pieces of wood. Light the crumpled paper and close the door. Warning! When the cooking stove is running the handle will become hot and the operating tool alone should then be used. Warning! The front of the cooking stove becomes very hot when in use. Do not place towels on the hand rail when the cooking stove is alight and keep children and pets away. 4

5 WOOD Once the fire becomes established add some larger pieces of wood. As the cooking stove comes up to temperature close the primary air control. The burning rate of the cooking stove can now be regulated by the rate at which fuel is added and by adjusting the secondary air control. SOLID FUEL Once the fire becomes established add some solid fuel. The rate at which solid fuel burns can be controlled by using the primary air control and by the amount of fuel added. The secondary air control will affect the burning rate to a lesser degree than the primary, but it should be left open where possible in order to keep deposits away from the glass window. Whichever fuel is used, the damper control may be closed once the fire is established depending on oven requirements (See Operating the Oven and Hob on page 6). NOTES ON WOODBURNING Wood burns most efficiently when the air for combustion is supplied from above the fire bed rather than below. The air supplied above the fire bed provides the oxygen necessary for the volatile gases (smoke), given off by the wood as it heats, to combust. This ensures that the gases are burnt and used to heat the appliance instead of being wasted up the chimney or condensing and forming tarry deposits inside the cooking stove, in the flue or on the loading door glass. Running the cooking stove with the primary air control open and the secondary air control closed will provide oxygen for the wood to burn on the fire bed but will not provide air for the volatile gases above the fire bed to combust resulting in a smoky inefficient fire. With the above in mind the cooking stove should ideally be run with the primary air inlet closed and the secondary air control open whenever possible. Another advantage of running the cooking stove with the air wash open is that the air being drawn into the cooking stove travels across the glass, forming an air barrier between the glass and the fire bed, helping to prevent smoke particles sticking to the glass. If the fire dies down too low, opening the primary air control for a short period will revive it. CORRECT RUNNING TEMPERATURES FOR WOOD BURNING To get the best results from your cooking stove it is recommended that a wood stove thermometer (available from your cooking stove dealer) be fitted to the flue pipe above the cooking stove, at eye level if possible. The figures below show the recommended temperature of the flue gases: 115 C C (240 F 475 F) The flue gases should be in this temperature band for the safest, most efficient and most economical operation of your cooking stove. Below 115 C (240 F) This is below the condensation point of wood gases and may cause the build up of tar in the chimney, dirty the cooking stove glass and result in the inefficient burning of fuel. Above 245 C (475 F) Too hot. Heat will be wasted up the chimney. Excess heat may damage the cooking stove or ignite an existing accumulation of tar resulting in a chimney fire. 5

6 EXTENDED WOOD BURNING Loading a large amount of wood into the cooking stove all at once will reduce the temperature inside. If the temperature is too low, the gases given off from the wood will be too low to combust, resulting in a lot of smoke which will cover the inside of the cooking stove, including the glass, with soot. To combat this problem it is a good idea to increase the temperature of the cooking stove before loading by further opening the air inlets. Load the wood and leave the air controls open until the moisture is driven out of the wood and the cooking stove is back up to an efficient operating temperature. The air inlets can then be reduced to hold the temperature of the cooking stove. Loading the cooking stove little and often will help keep the cooking stove temperature steady. Note: The above text should be used as a guide only. The ideal operation of your cooking stove depends on a number of factors, which vary with each installation, and so gaining experience operating your cooking stove is the only way to learn its best operation. TYPES OF WOOD FOR FUEL For best results use well seasoned hardwood such as Oak, Ash, or Beech. Allow wood to dry out under cover in well-ventilated conditions for at least twelve months. Wood is ready for burning when radial cracks appear in the end of the logs. Burning wood that is not seasoned will result in tar being deposited in the cooking stove, on the glass and in the flueways. This build up of tar is a hazard and if it ignites may cause a chimney fire. Resinous softwood burns well and gives a high output for short periods but is not as efficient and does not last as long as hardwood. PEAT ASH REMOVAL Wood burns best on its own ash and a manageable layer of ash on the grate is of benefit to the efficient running of your cooking stove. To empty the ashes from the ashpan below the grate, open the door on the bottom left of the cooking stove using the operating tool by inserting the tool into the slot and turning anti-clockwise. Insert the tool into the slot on the ash pan and pull forwards to remove. Care should be taken when disposing of ashes that are still warm. They should not be put into a plastic receptacle or anything that might melt in contact with heat. Peat is a fuel conveniently available in some areas and should be burned in the same manner as wood. OPERATING THE OVEN AND HOB The temperature of the hob is graduated from left to right. The left side is hotter and so is used for boiling and the right side for simmering. The oven door and the fire door are opened by lifting the handle either manually or using the operating tool. Both handles will become hot during operation when a cloth or the operating tool provided is recommended. The oven and hob are heated directly by the fire. In order to heat up the oven and hob the fire should be lit as described above. Once the fire is established the flue damper should be pushed in. This will allow the hot fumes from the fire to circulate around the inner cavity between the cooking stove and the oven thus heating up both the hob and the oven. The hob lids can be left down when the hob is not being used in order to keep the hotplates warm. In the 6

7 up position they will allow more heat into the room. To reduce the heat going to the oven when the cooking stove is up and running, the flue damper knob can be pulled out. This will allow the hot fumes to escape directly up the chimney via the boiling side of the hotplate, thus reducing the heat to the oven but maintaining a hot hotplate. To maintain a good cooking temperature in the oven requires only a small amount of fuel. To reduce the effective size of the firebox, the fuel bar can be moved towards the back and thus used to hold a smaller amount of fuel at the rear of the firebox, see Figure 4 on page 4. This also has the advantage of reducing the heat radiated through the window, making life easier for the cook. The temperature gauge on the oven door provides an indication of the oven temperature. It should be noted however that since the gauge is attached to the door it will drop if the door is left open for any prolonged period, in which case, the oven may be hotter than is indicated on the dial. Once the door is closed again the gauge will come back to temperature. CLEANING THE COOKING STOVE The cooking stove should only be cleaned when it is cold. The exterior can be dusted with a firm brush. Do not use a cloth, as this will drag on the paint finish leaving lint on the surface. As the cooking stove top is used for cooking, normal wear and tear will occur. Spills should be wiped up immediately with a damp cloth, but oven cleaners should not be used on the hob surface. The exterior of the cooking stove is painted with high temperature cooking stove paint and from time to time it may become necessary to renovate the exterior by repainting. The surface must be prepared by rubbing down with a wire brush. The cooking stove paint will not key to the surface if there are fat deposits or food particles on the area to be resprayed. High temperature cooking stove paints are available in aerosol form from your cooking stove dealer. Do not use this paint until the cooking stove is completely cold and always follow the instructions on the container before starting to paint. The usual precautions should be taken, such as covering adjoining surfaces and protecting the hob lids. stainless steel cleaners may be used. It is recommended that after such cleaning, the lids be again treated with oil by wiping over with a lint free cloth. This will prevent fingerprints and smears. Baby oil or similar is recommended for this purpose. The loading door glass should stay relatively clean if the correct type of fuel is used as described above, but from time to time this can be cleaned when cold with a proprietary glass cleaner and a dry cloth, or depending on soot build up, a nylon pan scourer. Vinegar and newspaper may also successfully be used. The hob lids are made from stainless steel. These have been treated with oil at the factory to prevent fingerprints and marks forming. The lids can be wiped clean with a damp cloth and proprietary 7

8 INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONSS Clearances - Fig.5 Clearance to the back wall can be zero if non-combustible. For a wall containing any combustible material the clearance should be 400mm. 200mm 200mm 416mm min. clearance for hob lid 200mm 200mm 8

9 The installer has a responsibility under the Health and Safety at Work Act 1974 to provide for the safety of persons carrying out the installation. Attention is drawn to the fact that fire cement is caustic and hands must be washed thoroughly after use. The appliance is heavy and care must be taken during handling. Although the appliance does not contain asbestos products, it is possible that asbestos may be disturbed in existing installations and every precaution must be taken. These instructions give a guide for the installation of the appliance but in no way absolves the installer from responsibilities to conform to British Standards, in particular BS8303 and BS6461, relating to the installation of solid fuel appliances. The installation should also comply with local Building Regulations and Local Authority Bye- Laws. Any adjacent combustible material should be far enough away from the cooking stove so as not to rise 60 C above the room temperature when the cooking stove is in operation. If necessary, any adjoining walls should be protected from the effects of heat. CHIMNEY AND FLUE The successful operation of the cooking stove relies on the adequate performance of the chimney to which it is connected. The chimney must: Have an internal cross section of no less than 320 cm.sq (200mm dia.). (If a flue liner is used it should be 6 diameter and suitable for solid fuel). Be a minimum 4.6m high from hearth level to pot. Be terminated at least 1m above roof level so that the chimney does not terminate in a pressure zone. See Figure 6 on page 10. Be free from cracks, severe bends, voids, and obstructions. Be connected to this one appliance only. New chimneys must be built in accordance with local building regulations. If the cooking stove is installed as a freestanding appliance, it should not support any part of the chimney. Voids in the chimney should be avoided as these will prevent a steady flue draught. The cooking stove flue pipe should pass beyond the narrowing of the chimney. A flue/chimney access point may also be required so that the state of the chimney can be checked and any fallen soot removed. External flues must be insulated to prevent heat loss. FLUE DRAUGHT The chimney can be checked, before the cooking stove is installed, with a smoke match. If the chimney doesn t pull the smoke it may suggest the chimney needs attention (see the Flue Diagnosis Table on page 11). Note: This test is only a guide as an apparently poor flue may improve once the cooking stove is installed, lit and the flue is warmed. If, once the cooking stove is installed, there is any doubt that the chimney is providing an adequate draught, a flue draught reading should be taken. 9

10 FLUE DRAUGHT READING Two flue draught readings should be taken, one with the cooking stove at minimum firing rate and one at maximum firing rate. The flue draught test hole must be drilled in the flue pipe as close to the cooking stove as possible and before any flue draught stabiliser. MINIMUM The cooking stove should be lit and allowed to warm the flue thoroughly. The air controls can then be set so that the cooking stove burns on a low setting. Allow the burning rate to become steady. The flue draught reading should now be taken with the primary air intake closed and the secondary air control fully open. MAXIMUM The primary air intake can now be opened to allow the cooking stove to burn at maximum rate. Give the cooking stove some time for the burning rate to become steady and then close the primary air intake. Make sure the secondary air control is fully open and take a flue draught reading immediately. Ideally, the flue draught readings should range between 1 mm wg (0.04 in wg) and 2.5 mm wg (0.1 in wg). Any readings significantly outside this range may indicate the need for remedial action. Chimney and Flue - Fig.6 10

11 Low flue draught symptoms: difficult to light and smoke coming into the room. Cause Cold chimney Chimney too short Down draught Chimney diameter too large Chimney obstruction Restricted air supply Remedy Line the chimney Extend the chimney Relocate/extend chimney terminal. Fit an anti down draught cowl Line the chimney Clear/sweep the chimney Check for competing draughts (other chimneys, extractor hoods/fans). Fit an air vent if the room is sealed. High flue draught symptoms: fire difficult to control, fuel will not last, cooking stove too hot, cooking stove damage, chimney fire Cause External wind conditions combined with chimney terminal Remedy Fit stabilizer cowl. Fit flue draught stabilizer. FLUE STABILIZER A flue stabilizer can be fitted to reduce the draught through the cooking stove if the flue draught is too high. The flue stabilizer should be fitted in the same room as the cooking stove, be the same size as the flue pipe and be fitted no closer than 700mm to the flue outlet of the appliance. INSTALLING THE COOKING STOVE POSITIONING IMPORTANT INSTALLATION NOTES: The overall dimensions of the cooking stove are 1. The installation must allow for adequate shown in Figure 1 on page 3. Figure 4 on page 4 chimney sweeping. shows recommended distances between the 2. Avoid using bends greater than 45 to the cooking stove and surrounding flammable vertical. All flue pipe sections should be as close materials. As a rule, any surrounding flammable to vertical as possible. material should not exceed 60 C above ambient room temperature. 3. All joints in the flue system must be effectively sealed. FLUE CONNECTION 4. All flue sockets must face upwards. On The flue pipe used to connect the cooking stove to completing the installation, check that all the the chimney is 6 (150mm) in diameter. internal components of the cooking stove are The flue connection is on the top of the cooking positioned correctly. Check: Grate, baffle, ash stove, in the center at the back. pan, insulation bricks, fuel bar. See Figure 3 on page 4. 11

12 INFORMATION FOR USE WHEN ORDERING SPARES: 08/04 Model: Serial Number: Colour: GUARANTEE WHAT THIS GUARANTEE COVERS Any defect arising from faulty workmanship during the normal use of the ESSE cooking stove. CONDITIONS OF GUARANTEE Your ESSE cooking stove is guaranteed against defects arising from faulty manufacture for 2 years subject to the following express conditions: 1. A suitably qualified person must install the cooking stove. Upon installation the details must be recorded on the warranty card enclosed and registered with ESSE by returning the completed card in the s.a.e. provided. The guarantee is operative upon receipt of the correctly completed card. 2. The guarantee period commences upon receipt by ESSE of the warranty card. 3. The guarantee does not cover parts deemed to be replaceable in the normal usage of the cooking stove. These parts are listed below: Firebox linings, loading door glass, door seals. HOW TO PROCEED WITH A COMPLAINT If you have cause for dissatisfaction with your cooking stove, you should first contact your ESSE dealer who will, in most instances, be able to offer immediate assistance. If you are unable to contact your dealer, you can get in touch with us direct. We will then check that we have received an accurately completed warranty card. If not any work carried out will be chargeable. We will assess the nature of the complaint and either send replacement parts for your dealer to fit, send an engineer to inspect and report or send an engineer to remedy. If the fault is not actually due to faulty workmanship but some other cause such as misuse or failure to install correctly, a charge will be made to cover the cost of the visit and any new parts required. Ouzledale Foundry Co. Limited, Long Ing, Barnoldswick, Lancashire BB18 6BN Tel: Fax: esse@ouzledale.co.uk the ironheart Website: