Oceanography CRN # Lecture 4a

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1 Oceanography CRN # Lecture 4a Debbie Reynolds Lecture Certification: 1

2 Lectures 1 a) Properties of sea water, ocean physics, ocean basins, explorers b) Meteorology, heat balance, geostrophic circulation Lectures 2 a) Surface ocean winds, currents, temperature and salinity b) Deep circulation, instruments Lectures 3 a) El Niño b) Climate change in the oceans, including sea level rise Lectures 4 a) Wind waves, rogue waves and tsunami b) Tides Lectures 5 a) Sea-floor spreading, continental drift Plate Tectonics b) Ocean basins, ocean sediments, coasts and estuaries Lectures 6 a) Food web, plankton, invertebrate animals b) Vertebrate animals, communities tidal to abyssal 2

3 Introduction Capillary Waves: restoring force is surface tension Wavelength is less than 1.74 cm (0.68 in) Wind waves: restoring force is gravity Deep Water Wave Shallow Water Wave Difference between seas (in storm) and swell (after storm) Refraction at the shore by depth Rogue Waves: restoring force is gravity Generated by constructive interference of wind waves Tsunami: restoring force is gravity Usually generated by seismic motion Always a Shallow Water Wave Period up to 30 minutes 3

4 Surface Tension Surface tension is the tendency of the surface of a liquid to hold together and to resist an external force 4

5 Height Sine Wave A mathematical curve that describes a smooth repetitive oscillation Ideal Ocean Wave Time 5

6 Definitions of a Wave Wave Frequency = 1 / Wave Period 6

7 Motion of Water in a Wave For a nonbreaking wave: Water particles move in a circles or ellipses There is NO overall transport of water Only energy is transferred 7

8 Deep & Shallow Water Waves Water depth: h Wavelength: L Deep Water Wave h greater than L/2 Wind waves in open water Circular motion Shallow Water Wave h less than L/20 Tsunami (harbor waves) anywhere Waves reaching the shore Elliptic motion 8

9 Capillary Waves 9

10 Capillary Waves to Gravity Waves As the wind speed increases first capillary than gravity waves are generated Wavelengths and periods increase Waves begin to break when the height exceeds 1/7 of the wavelength 10

11 Three requirements: 1. Wind Speed: Wind strength in 1 direction 2. Fetch: Uninterrupted distance the wind blows over water 3. Wind Duration: Time that the wind blows A Fully Developed Sea 11

12 Fully or Partially Developed Seas to Swell Fetch: Distance the wind blows over water 12

13 Anemometer Measures: Wind Speed and Wind Direction 13

14 Beaufort Winds Sir Francis Beaufort

15 Beaufort Wind Scale 1 knot = 1.15 mi/hr 15

16 Beaufort Wind Scale 1 knot = 1.15 mi/hr Beaufort Force 4 Wind speed: knots Wave height 1 1.5m (3 5 ft) Small waves becoming longer Fairly frequent white horses 16

17 Beaufort Wind Scale 1 knot = 1.15 mi/hr Beaufort Force 6 Wind speed: knots Wave height 3 4m ( ft) Larger waves begin to form Spray is present White foam crests are everywhere 17

18 Beaufort: 10 Storm 18

19 Fully or Partially Developed Seas to Swell Fetch: Distance the wind blows over water 19

20 Swell off New Zealand 20

21 Phase Speed of Deep Water Wave Acceleration of gravity: g g = 9.8 m/s2 (32 ft/s2) π = Period: T Wavelength: L Speed (celerity): C 𝐂= (𝐠 𝐋)/(𝟐𝛑) Longer waves travel faster than smaller waves Waves disperse 21

22 Walter Munk, Scripps, and colleagues (later my profs) tracked waves from Antarctic storms to Alaska 22

23 RV FLIP (FL oating I nstrument P latform) 23

24 Walter Munk, Scripps, and colleagues (later my profs) tracked waves from Antarctic storms to Alaska? 24

25 Waves Reaching the Shore Deep water waves begin to feel the bottom They slow and change to shallow water waves and then break g: Acceleration of gravity T: Period L: Wavelength h: Depth c: Speed Deep Water Speed C = (g L)/(2π) Shallow Water Speed C = g h 25

26 Breakers at Jaws on Maui 26

27 Breakers at Jaws on Maui 27

28 Wave Refraction 28

29 Big Wave Surfing Nazare, Portugal 29

30 Lighthouse in Porto, Portugal Please close all windows! 30

31 Rogue Waves Interaction of two waves leads to constructive or destructive interference 1. Constructive Interference: Add Waves 2. Destructive Interference: Subtract Waves 31

32 Constructive and Destructive Interference 32

33 Rogue Waves Interaction of two waves leads to constructive and destructive interference In the North Sea at the Draupner oil platform a rogue wave was recorded at 18 m (59 ft) 33

34 Largest Wave Recorded USS Ramapo February 7, 1993, between Manila and San Diego Winds steady at 67 mi/hr with gusts to 78 mi/hr Officer on bridge lined up crows nest with crest of wave Using ship s design plans the wave was calculated to be 34 m (112 ft) 34

35 Seiche Wave Wind blowing across a lake sets up sea level difference Then when wind relaxes wave sloshes back and forth See changes across Lake Erie in 2003 Height: 4m (13 ft) 35

36 Tsunami Generation Tsunami is Japanese for harbor wave Used to be called a Tidal Wave in US Wavelength is long ~100 km (62 miles) Period is ~ 5 30 minutes Period is time between wave crests Open Ocean Wave height is m (1-2 ft) Tectonic plate boundary before earthquake Overriding plate causes uplift Plate slips releasing energy into water Energy produces tsunami 36

37 Tsunami: Shallow Water Wave Period is ~ 5 30 minutes Open Ocean Wave height is m (1-2 ft) Wavelength (L) = 100 km (62 miles) Typical Open Depth (h) = 4000 m (13,000 ft) Shallow Water: Depth (h) less than L/20 L/20 = 100/20 = 5 km = 5000 m Tsunami is a Shallow Water Wave Speed: C = g h g = 9.8 m/s 2 (32 ft/s 2 ) h = 4000 m (13,000 ft) C = 712 km/hr (442 mi/hr) h = 30 m (100 ft) C = 98 km/hr (61 mi/hr) h = 10 m (33 ft) C = 36 km/hr (22 mi/hr) 37

38 The sea is gone, what is going on? Indonesian Tsunami December 26, ,000 people dead or missing Series of waves at 15 minute intervals Banda Ache destroyed Waves as high as 30 m (98 ft) Richter Scale Seabed had vertical rise of 5 m (16 ft) The sea is back, is it time to go? 38

39 Japanese Tsunami March 11, ,000 people dead or missing Nuclear Power Plant damaged Waves at Sendai Airport area as high as 12 m (39 ft) Richter Scale

40 DART Tsunami Buoy Pressure sensor placed on ocean bottom Pressure sensor uses acoustic telemetry to send pressure information to surface buoy Surface buoy uses radio to send pressure information signal to the Tsunami warning system via satellite 40

41 41

42 Contours of Forecasted Maximum Wave Amplitudes Pressure sensor placed on ocean bottom Can be returned to surface using acoustical release Pressure sensor uses acoustic telemetry to send pressure information to surface buoy Surface buoy uses radio to send pressure information signal to the Tsunami warning system via satellite 42

43 Summary Capillary Waves: restoring force is surface tension Wavelength is less than 1.74 cm (0.68 in) Wind waves: restoring force is gravity Deep Water: speed controlled by wavelength Shallow Water: speed controlled by depth Difference between seas (in storm) and swell (after storm) Refraction at the shore by depth Rogue Waves: restoring force is gravity Generated by constructive interference of wind waves Largest measured was 112 feet Tsunami: restoring force is gravity Usually generated by seismic motion Shallow Water Waves: speed controlled by depth Period up to 30 minutes 43

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