Yellowstone Country Flies

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1 Yellowstone Country Flies The Fly Patterns of Parks Fly Shop Walter J. Wiese

2 Copyright 2013 by Walter Wiese ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying and recording, or by any information storage and retrieval system, except as may be expressly permitted in writing from the copyright holder. Requests for permission should be addressed to Walter J. Wiese, P.O. Box 192, Gardiner, MT, All photos by Walter J. Wiese unless otherwise credited. Design by Walter J. Wiese. Printed in USA

3 For Jade. You showed me the way.

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5 Acknowledgments I would like to thank all the tiers whose patterns are included in this book, as well as the MANY whose patterns have inspired me. Thanks to the many visitors to my Youtube channel ( who thanked me for the videos and asked for a book. Huge and everlasting thanks to my dad, for introducing me to fly fishing, and to Jade, for telling me to go for it.

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7 Contents Introduction 1 The Fly Designers 4 Parks Fly Shop Commandments of Fly Design 10 Tools and Materials 12 Nymphs 29 Bead, Hare, and Copper, Minch s 30 Four Feather, Wiese s 33 Gray Glass Caddis, Wiese s 36 Holiday Stone Series, Korn s 39 Hula Princess, Wiese s 42 Lucent Prince Series, Wiese s 45 Merrell Lake Bomber Chironomid Series, Jewell s 49 New Nymph, Minch s 52 SCHWARPF Series, Korn s 55 Shimmer Nymph Series, Wiese s 62 Skinny Bugger Damsel, Minch s 65 Stone Nymph Series, Minch s 67 Turkey Vac, Wiese s 70 Wet Flies, Soft Hackles, and Subsurface Emergers Caddis Pupa Series, McCue s 74 Glasshead Pheasant Tail Soft Hackle, Wiese s 76 72

8 West Virginia March Brown, Parks 79 White Miller Soft Hackle, Wiese s 81 Emergers, Cripples, and Spinners 84 EMT Drake Emerger Series, Korn s 85 Gray CDC Emerging Dun 88 Haze Cripple Series, Wiese s 91 Hen Wing Caddis Series, Korn s 95 Purple Phaze Emerger, Wiese s 98 Slough Creek Cripple/Spinner, Jewell s 101 Hatch Matching Dry Flies 104 Biot Midge, Jewell s 105 Blond Palmered CDC & Elk, Wiese s 107 Clacka Caddis Series, Wiese s (Imitative Versions) 110 JRB Midge, PFS 114 Prom Queen Salmonfly, Wiese s 117 Salmonfly, Parks 121 Soda Fountain Parachute, Keltner s 125 Tweeter Series, Korn s 128 Attractor and Terrestrial Dry Flies 131 Bob Hopper Series, Wiese s 134 Clacka Caddis Series, Wiese s (Attractor Versions) 138 Foam Beetle, PFS 140 GFA Hopper Series, Wiese s 142 Glasshead Ant Series, Jewell s 147 Hairwing Variant, Parks 149 Hi-Viz Bicolor Para Ant, Jewell s 152 Little Green Letort Hopper, Parks 155

9 Spent Spruce Moth, Korn s 158 Synth Double Wing, Wiese s 160 Wrapped Foam Hopper Series, Korn s 164 Streamers and Other Flies 168 Bully Bugger Series, Minch s 170 Joffe Jewel, Minch s 172 Love Bunny Series, Wiese s 174 Perch Candy, Minch s 181 PT-Bugger, Wiese s 183 Scleech Series, Wiese s 186 Swimming Minnow Series, Wiese s 192 Creep, Minch s 195 Herl Shrimp, Minch s 197 Color Plates 200 Appendix: Additional Web Resources 226

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11 Introduction Over the past several years, Parks Fly Shop s fly selection has expanded dramatically, with virtually all of the new flies coming from our own vises. While most shops carry some flies tied or designed inhouse, few carry such a high percentage as Parks' Fly Shop. We keep tying more and more of our flies. As of this writing in April 2013, around half our flies are tied in-house, by local tiers affiliated with the shop, or tied to our specifications by a large wholesaler after being designed by a Parks Fly Shop tier. With this increase in the shop's selection of custom flies has come a larger number of requests for fly pattern recipes, tying instructions, and even the stories behind the patterns. This book is designed to fulfill these requests. In the first few sections of the book I introduce the fly designers whose flies are profiled, the basic fly design philosophy Parks' Fly Shop tiers practice, and the tools and materials commonly used in Parks' Fly Shop's custom flies. The remainder of the book consists of detailed entries for around fifty historic and current Parks Fly Shop flies. Fly entries are divided into six categories by fly type, with each category featuring a page or two of general information before the fly entries begin. Each fly entry consists of an introduction detailing the development of the fly, where it has proven effective, how it should be fished, and other information. Following this introduction is a recipe for the pattern, full fly tying instructions, notes that may prove helpful in tying the fly or modifying it for your own use, and information on how to tie different variations of the pattern stocked by Parks Fly Shop (usually alternate colors). Each entry includes a black and white photo of the fly, while color photos for each pattern are given in plates at the end of the book. Other black and white photos are included in the body of the text where I believe they will prove helpful, often to illustrate complex fly tying instructions. 1

12 It is important to note that the patterns included do not represent all those tied by Parks' Fly Shop tiers for retail sale. I have not included some brand new patterns, most historical patterns we no longer stock regularly, no matter how important they might have once been, and standard patterns we tie in house unless our versions differ in some fundamental way from those commonly available elsewhere. Many of the midges we sell come from our own vises, but they don't look any different from those tied in Kenya or Thailand for one of the big wholesale outfits, so they aren t included in this book, for example. Likewise our version of Craig Mathews' X-Caddis is easily recognizable as an X-Caddis, even if it does have a fuzzier body than those available elsewhere, so while it is present on our website, it s not here. On the other hand, our version of Hans Weilenmann s CDC & Elk Caddis, which we call a Palmered CDC Caddis, uses a different body feather and differs from the original recipe in other important ways, so it is included. This book is intended to be a guide to tying and fishing the patterns of Parks' Fly Shop, and I hope it will prove enjoyable and useful both for those who tie their own flies and for those who would simply like more in-depth information on flies useful in the Yellowstone region. Because the emphasis in on fly patterns rather than fly tying techniques, this book is not intended as a basic fly tying manual. Although many of the patterns included here are simple to tie, and only a handful are truly difficult, the fly recipes and tying instructions assume some familiarity with basic fly tying techniques. If you are new to fly tying, I suggest the books Fly Tying Made Clear and Simple, by Skip Morris, and Basic Fly Tying, by Charlie Craven. Both books will provide the beginning tier a great springboard to get into the craft of fly tying. For the more advanced tier who would like more information on specific techniques, The Fly Tier's Benchside Reference to Techniques and Dressing Styles, by Ted Leeson and Jim Schollmeyer, is what amounts to a college level textbook on a wide range of fly tying techniques. All three books are available from a wide range of other retail outlets, including Amazon.com, chain bookstores, and many fly shops. In addition to these books, the Web is becoming an increasingly important resource for fly tying information. Fly Anglers Online ( features a good series of lessons for beginning fly tiers, and similar free courses are available on Youtube 2

13 and elsewhere on the Web. Three Parks Fly Shop tiers, Satoshi Yamamoto, Doug Korn, and I, post videos on Youtube. Many of the patterns discussed in this book are available in video form there. These videos make a great complement to the information in the book. While videos seldom provide the level of detail possible in a book, they are great for seeing how to tie a fly in real-time. In addition to books (and other media) on fly tying, many shops in larger cities offer introductory fly tying classes at little or no cost, and these classes are a great resource if they are available to you. Though this book s focus is on fly patterns rather than on fly tying techniques, the tying instructions do include some detailed information on specialized techniques Parks' Fly Shop tiers use, especially techniques that increase the durability of a fly or the efficiency of tying it, as well as some techniques that are of general importance, but which many tiers find difficult (i.e. tying parachute dry fly wings). In general these techniques will be discussed thoroughly the first time they are mentioned and only briefly in subsequent entries. Thus I encourage you to read the entire book the first time you read it, rather than simply flipping to the patterns that most interest you. I hope you enjoy the book, and wish you happy tying. 3

14 The Fly Designers The following individuals have contributed to the fly designs discussed in this book. Each fly name includes the last name of the designer, Parks' Salmonfly, for example, except when a fly design represents a collaborative effort by several Parks' Fly Shop tiers or a variation on a standard theme. These flies are collaboratively referred to by "PFS." Several tiers affiliated with Parks Fly Shop design flies for Montana Fly Company (MFC), a wholesale fly and fly tying materials company based in northwest Montana. Many of the flies in this book are produced for wholesale distribution by MFC, and might be available at your local shop. If your local shop doesn t carry them, the designer would sure appreciate it if you request that they start. Ben Jewell Ben tries to tie simple, effective, and durable flies. He has been tying since 2005, when he began tying traditional dries and streamers for waters in the White Mountains of New Hampshire, where he grew up. Since he began working for Parks' Fly Shop in 2007, his fly tying influences have been Walter Wiese, Matt Minch, and Richard Parks, aided by a lot of time on the water, especially Slough Creek, the Yellowstone in its Canyon, and the Gardner River. He believes that having great Ben Jewell fly tiers to emulate is the best way to learn and suggests that those looking to create their own flies should 4

15 take a good fly, change it a little or a lot, and thereby turn it into a great fly. Dave Keltner Dave is profoundly interested in regional fly tying. Having lived in Alaska, Yellowstone, Colorado, and northern California, he has seen a wide range of styles. His own style is influenced by the hyper-modern flies of Colorado and the more working class flies of Yellowstone and the Pacific Northwest. He is interested in developing working flies that are durable, effective, and attractive. Dave guided for Parks' Fly Shop from , then worked for several years as a ranger in Yellowstone's northeast corner before Dave Keltner moving to Redwoods National Park. He now spends much of his time fishing for steelhead and salmon in northern California s rivers, while his tying time is consumed with trying to develop a surf sculpin pattern that will fool big ling cod. Doug Korn The great outdoors and fishing have always been driving forces in Doug s life. As a child he went pan fishing and bullhead fishing at night with his dad and grandfather. In later years he spent all spring, summer and fall on Lake Ontario, trolling for trout and salmon, then ice fished all winter. Doug Korn Then one day he stumbled into fly fishing by going to a fly tying demonstration by a fly shop owner in Rochester, NY, Dough s hometown. He was totally captivated by it. He 5

16 became a fly tier that day and it wasn t long before he was casting and presenting his own flies to the local brown trout. Over the next few years he rapidly increased his fly tying skills by reading and studying books on fly tying, using the Internet, watching videos, and by tying many thousands of flies. He likes flies that are fast and easy to tie aswell-as being beautiful and highly effective, guide flies in his terms. He is inspired by some of the great fly tiers of the New York Catskills as well as those of the Rockies, both past and present. These days you ll find Doug fly fishing the inland trout streams and Lake Ontario tributaries in his home state of New York or out west fishing and guiding in Yellowstone Country. He enjoys both the artistic skills of fly tying as well as the technical challenges in bringing fish to hand. Don Mccue Don has been tying flies since he was a ten year-old growing up in Pennsylvania. As a full-time guide, he seeks to tie flies that are durable, quick to tie, and effective. While Don s personal tying is devoted most to streamers, since streamer fishing is his favorite technique, his pattern included here, the Glasshead Caddis Pupa, is a secret weapon, especially when it s fished in tandem with a streamer. Don Mccue Matt Minch Matt has been fly fishing since his boyhood in Pennsylvania in the early 1940s, but he didn't begin tying until the late 1960s, when he lived in Ten Sleep, Wyoming. He has the notable distinction of having caught a fish on his first cast with a fly he tied. Perhaps unsurprising given this immediate success, he started tying commercially soon after 6

17 Matt Minch he started tying, in Matt primarily fishes nymphs, and prefers highly impressionistic flies that can suggest multiple food items at once. His nymphs are strongly influenced by flies popular near his former winter home of Omarama, on New Zealand's South Island, and all rank among Parks' Fly Shop's most effective and best-selling flies. Matt Minch is a contract fly designer for MFC. Merton and Richard Parks Mentored by an uncle, Merton Parks learned his fly fishing in northern Minnesota during the 1930 s but didn t take up fly tying until World War II, when commercial flies became hard to acquire. The first fly Merton tied was also the first he had ever seen tied. He used the limited tying information and the color plates in Ray Bergman s Trout as his sources. Demand for his flies from friends grew after the war. Tired of giving flies away, he started selling them, a home business that evolved into Parks Fly Shop after Merton moved to Montana in Richard started trying to tie at Merton Parks, late 1950s. age 7 or 8 by copying his father's flies. Once Merton opened Parks Fly Shop, Richard became more serious about fly tying, so that by age 12 he was a full-fledged commercial fly tier responsible for the production of a wide range of classic wet fly patterns. 7

18 Durability is a hallmark of both Richard s and his father's tying methods and patterns. Neither patterns nor techniques lend themselves to fast tying, but they result in classic flies that last for many fish. Richard Parks, circa Walter Wiese I grew up in St. Louis, Missouri, and began fly fishing at the age of six. Most of my early fly fishing experiences were in the Ozarks, where I fished the spring creeks and tailwaters for trout and occasionally went after bass and panfish in ponds and creeks. I began tying flies in 1991, first by trying to wrap sewing thread and turkey feathers on conventional fishing hooks, then with a basic kit my dad got me for my eleventh birthday. I began tying flies commercially in 2001, the same year I started working Walter Wiese. Photo by Richard Parks. at Parks Fly Shop. My flies tend to combine synthetic and natural materials. I often integrate synthetics to provide 8

19 flash or to suggest movement, but perhaps my biggest hallmark is my use of synthetics in roles where natural materials are more common, in order to reduce tying time and increase durability. I have been a contract fly designer for Montana Fly Company since

20 Parks Fly Shop Commandments of Fly Design The following are design features Parks' Fly Shop tiers attempt to include in all their flies, and the reasons for doing so. These tenets are critical for flies tied for commercial sale, but they're good to keep in mind for your own tying, as well. 1. Flies must have a purpose. While it's always fun to experiment, the time constraints of tying flies for commercial sale preclude tying flies to put on the shelves just to put them there. If a fly design doesn't work or works only as well as another fly that's already out there, there's no reason to tie it, at least for commercial purposes. Every new fly that goes into serious production should do something different or do something better than other flies in the same category. 2. Flies must appeal to the fish. If the trout don't like a fly, it doesn't matter how snazzy it looks or how easy it is to tie. Flies should be given the benefit of the doubt, since even the best fly only appeals to the fish under certain circumstances, but if a fly consistently fails to impress the fish, it should be abandoned, no matter the tier's attachment to it. Often even a good fly must be abandoned. Remember that in 1965 a #16 Light Cahill was the preferred Pale Morning Dun imitation on the Paradise Valley spring creeks, while with the greater pressure on and spookier fish present in the creeks today, this fly simply doesn't work as well now as more exact imitations. There are many more patterns that were tied by Parks' Fly Shop tiers and tested that never made it into the display case than those that made it, and many patterns once found on the display are no longer there. 10

21 3. Flies must appeal to the angler. The above point notwithstanding, any fly is useless until it gets tied on the end of the line. Thus flies must appeal as much as possible to anglers without compromising their appeal to the trout. Ways of improving the angler appeal of a fly can range from simply tying it correctly, with proper proportions, few errant elements, and so on, to producing designs utilizing new materials and interesting techniques. 4. Flies must not possess any extraneous features. If a particular design element is unnecessary, it should be omitted. This makes flies faster to tie and often makes it easier to make consistent and properly proportioned flies. In addition, the more elements a fly has, the more likely one of them will fail when the fly hits a rock on the back cast, a few fish chew on it, or whatever. Thus leaving out extraneous features makes flies more durable. This point tends to produce impressionistic, buggy flies, the ultimate example of which is perhaps Minch's Bead, Hare, and Copper (page #). 5. Flies must be as durable as possible. While a #22 midge is by its very nature going to be more delicate than a #4 sculpin, flies should be as resistant to damage as other factors allow. Means of making flies durable range from maintaining proper thread control to making judicious use of superglue to reinforce delicate materials. Even replacing delicate materials with more durable ones when possible is a good idea. 11

22 Tools and Materials This chapter is not intended as a comprehensive list of the tools and materials Parks' Fly Shop tiers use. Rather it is intended as an introduction to the sorts of tools and materials PFS tiers use. In most cases, numerous products covering similar territory are available and the precise product chosen doesn't make much difference. Many individuals reading this book will already have their own favorites, and there's often no reason to go out and buy something new when you already have something you like and have confidence in. This said, there are some specific products we have great faith in, and we won't hesitate to mention them by name. Tools Vises The vises Parks Fly Shop tiers use vary considerably. Matt Minch and Richard Parks prefer traditional non-rotary Regal vises. These probably have the best hook-holding power of any vise as long as you don t tie many smaller flies, but the standard jaws tend to eject hooks smaller than about size 16, chipping the vise jaws and leaving a hook somewhere on the floor of your tying room, though precisely where is anyone s guess. Since Richard and Matt mostly tie larger flies, this isn t a problem for them. The rest of us tie on rotary vises. Ben Jewell uses a Griffin Montana Mongoose, a mid-range rotary notable for its wide range of options. It comes with both a pedestal base and a C-clamp for example. I still have one of these vises that I use when doing tying demonstrations since it is more portable than my other vise, and Doug Korn used to have one as well, so I recommend it as a quality mid-level vise. Doug Korn and I both tie on J-Vices, a custom vise produced in South Africa that is only available online, at This vise is notable for its J-shaped neck design which makes it much easier to 12

23 access the rear of the hook, as well as for its massive customizability. It doesn t come cheap though: expect an average setup to run around $400 plus shipping. In general, we suggest buying a vise you like at the highest price point you can afford up to about $250 retail. Beyond that, there's no reason to spend more money unless you're a commercial tier, and even if you are, you should get years of service out of even a $250 vise. We do suggest avoiding the cheapest vises of any type. In other words, if you have $75 to spend we suggest getting a good fixed vise rather than the cheapest rotary vise. Walter Wiese and Doug Korn tie on J-Vices, which are notable for their curved necks that allow for easy access to the backs of hooks. Scissors Choose scissors made by whatever manufacturer you like, just keep them sharp. We suggest having a small pair and a large pair for general use, plus a pair dedicated for use with hair and one dedicated for use with wire. The wire scissors should be cheap ones or simply a worn out pair originally used for something else. Most Parks' Fly Shop tiers use Dr. Slick products. Bobbins The main design feature a bobbin needs to have is a smooth tube. For this reason we suggest bobbins with ceramic tubes. A couple of thread bobbins will suffice for most purposes, and it can be nice to have a cheap bobbin devoted to wire, as well. Brand names are immaterial: get bobbins that feel good in your hand. 13

24 Other Tools For the most part, other tools used by Parks' Fly Shop tiers follow standard suggestions: get a bodkin, a bobbin threader if desired, a comb for cleaning hair, a pair of small needlenose pliers for crushing hook barbs, a whip finisher if you don't know how to tie a whip finish by hand or want a backup, a dubbing twister for the same reasons, etc. Some Parks' Fly Shop tiers use unusual dubbing brushes and hackle pliers. A cheap small-bore gun brush makes an excellent dubbing brush for really aggressive work, while a store brand toothbrush trimmed at a degree angle from base to tip so that the tip barbs are short and stiff and those at the base remain long and relatively flexible makes an excellent dubbing brush for more delicate and general work. Small wire grabbers, available at stores like Radio Shack, make excellent hackle pliers and can be used to display flies if placed upright in a board drilled with holes that fit their bases. Toothbrush dubbing brush. Adhesives Parks' Fly Shop tiers use a wider range of adhesives than most tiers. In addition to head cement, these include Duco cement, superglue, and both traditional and nontraditional dubbing waxes. In general, Parks' Fly Shop tiers are unimpressed by most contemporary head cements. For decades, Richard and Merton Parks and Matt Minch used the old Pharmacist s Quality cement, and I learned how to tie with this product, as well. In our opinions, this product still sets the gold standard. Unfortunately, it has been unavailable since around For a brief time in early 2000s a company called Black Duck offered a very similar head cement they created with our input, but the company didn t last and this cement is now also unavailable. Today we use a variety of products which seem to come closest to the original ideals, in our individual opinions. In general, we prefer thicker head cements to thin, penetrating cements. Matt Minch uses Spirit River hi-gloss cement for most purposes, with a water-based 14

25 cement as backup for purposes where penetration is required. Ben Jewell uses Griffin cement. Doug Korn, Richard Parks, and I often use Sally Hansen Hard as Nails, a nail care product available in most supermarkets. Since Hard as Nails does have a distinct odor, it is often a good idea to substitute an odorless cement when you re tying nymphs, but otherwise its performance is excellent (and it s cheap). Superglue has an important place on the benches of Ben Jewell, Dave Keltner, Doug Korn, and I. It is useful for a huge range of purposes. Superglue can replace head cement in some circumstances (especially on large flies) and is excellent for reinforcing many fly elements, especially foam bodies, the butts of hair wings, and barbell eyes. While Zap-a-Gap is without doubt the most popular brand sold in fly shops, brand names appear largely Sally Hansen Hard as Nails head cement. immaterial in terms of effectiveness. Bottles with brush caps are more useful than those with applicator nozzles, which tend to clog. I prefer the Krazy Glue brand, but solely because it is widely available in a bottle with a brush cap and a wide base, making spills easier to avoid. Richard Parks achieves much the same effects as Ben, Dave, Doug and I achieve with superglue by thinning Duco-brand contact cement with acetone. Dubbing wax is important for some flies, even those tied with waxed thread. Any of the standard moderately tacky waxes will work for general use. I use Hareline s low-tack wax. Doug Korn utilizes Swix ski wax for his specialized take on the touch dubbing technique, which is explained in the entry for his SCHWARPF nymph (page 55). I must admit that Parks Fly Shop tiers are behind the times when it comes to the new UV-cure resins like Clear Cure Goo. We don t use these products as much as we probably should. I do wholeheartedly suggest using these types of products instead of epoxy for things like coating wing cases on nymphs and shellbacks on scuds. 15

26 Materials In general, we strongly prefer materials with some degree of variegation, iridescence, and fine motion. These qualities all increase the impression a fly gives of being alive. Nowadays both natural and synthetic materials are capable of providing these impressions. A general suggestion is to avoid using matte-finish monochrome materials, to the degree that you can substitute for them. When materials used are by their natures monochrome foam for example try to make additional elements of the fly more strongly variegated, iridescent, or capable of providing more motion. The Wiese's GFA uses natural deer hair, Krystal Flash, and barred or speckled legs in addition to single-color foam, for example, which make up for the monochrome, unnatural appearance of the foam. Hooks Probably the most important material is a good hook. Everything else is pointless if your hook can t be sharpened enough to hook a fish or is so soft or brittle that it breaks on the first good fish to eat it. Fortunately, almost all fly tying hooks available today are of high quality, no matter their retail price. With cheaper hooks, it seems like the main problem is one or two deformed and unusable hooks in a package, not dullness or brittleness. For this reason, the fly recipes later in the book generally refer to a taper and size of hook, not to a specific manufacturer. When recipes do refer to a single hook model, it is because the tier is particularly pleased with this hook s performance on the pattern in question or because it features an unusual taper that isn t matched by many hooks from competing brands. Barbed hooks are available in a wider range of styles and sizes than barbless hooks, often at reduced cost, and these factors and the ease of squeezing a barb with barb smashing pliers or a pair of flat-nose forceps lead us to tie our flies on barbed hooks except when barbless hooks are available at the same price. The main barbless hooks we use are standard and short shank dry fly hooks, which are almost as widely available as standard barbed dry fly hooks. We always squeeze our barbs before the fly gets wet. There's simply no valid reason not to. The table on the next page gives model numbers by four manufacturers for the most common hook tapers used on Parks' Fly Shop's custom flies. The Mustad hook model numbers given are the older, classic numbers. In general, we are phasing out Mustad hooks in 16

27 favor of hooks by Montana Fly Company. If we do not use a hook of a given taper from certain manufacturers, these model numbers are not given. Note that we believe some Dai-Riki hooks are marketed for a one purpose but actually feature tapers making them more suited for a different purpose. I have categorized these hooks according to how we use them, rather than how they are marketed. These hooks are marked with an asterisk. MFC hooks with the suffixes GBL or KBL are barbless models we like. Hook Model Conversion Table Dai-Riki Mustad Montana Tiemco Fly Co. Short shank dry: 305* or 102Y 7004KBL Standard dry: or KBL 2xl curved shank dry: 3xl curved shank multi-role ("Stimulator"): R 0xl wet fly: Standard 060* nymph: 1xl nymph: 3906B 7076 or KBL 2xl nymph: or 7026KBL xl curved 285 shank nymph: 3xl streamer (often used for nymphs as well): 4xl streamer: Clouser-style: Scud: Light wire scud: 7048 or GBL Emerger:

28 Beads and Eyes Beads play important roles for Parks' Fly Shop tiers, as they do for most tiers today. Many of the nymphs by Matt Minch, Doug Korn, and I were designed from the start as beadheads, Some of Matt's designs were developed within months of when fly tying-specific beads first came on the market. Beadheads we tie for commercial sale all use brass rather than tungsten beads, both to keep the price for the consumer down and because we believe brass beadheads offer more flexibility. You can fish a brass beadhead in deep water by adding a split shot, but a tungsten head will snag in shallow water no matter what. We do tie some tungheads for personal use and for use on guide trips when we know it will be necessary to get deep. In the fly recipes starting in the next chapter that call for beadheads, I state when substituting tungsten beads makes sense, though if you like tungsten beads on all your nymphs, feel free to always use them instead of brass beads. We use copper-colored beads more often than most tiers. Since fish see more gold beads and gold beads are brighter, we believe heavily-pressured fish are more likely to spook from gold beads than copper. Copper beads especially when paired with a matching copper wire rib also lend an overall darker color tone to a given fly, which we believe more closely matches the coloration many insects than the lighter coloration imparted by gold beads and wire. We do use gold beads, of course, and in some cases other colors, particularly black and black nickel. Silver beads are not used on any of the patterns included in this book and overall Parks Fly Shop tiers seldom use them. We are just beginning to use the new colored brass beads that are coming on the market. The most useful of these are the white brass beads that are critical on many chironomid midge larva and pupa patterns. In general, brass or tungsten beads specifically designed for fly tying are all of high quality. We suggest you buy the ones you like and that fit your budget. Just make sure to buy real fly tying beads. Metal beads are one item that you should always get from a fly shop instead of a craft store, since those from craft stores usually lack the tapered holes of true fly tying beads. These tapered holes make it easier to put the beads on the hook and also to tie flies up tight to the back of the bead without undue thread buildup. In addition, craft store beads are 18

29 often poorly finished or are even just plated with a thin coating of metal that will begin flaking off as soon as you start fishing. Glass beads are a different matter. Craft stores are excellent places to stock up on them. Glass beads are rapidly gaining prominence in our fly tying, both to replace brass or tungsten beads on beadhead flies and in less traditional roles such as bodies on nymphs and even as heads on sinking ants. While glass beads don't help a fly sink like those made of brass or tungsten, this is not always a detriment. Some wet flies sink too deep when tied with metal Glass beads provide abundant opportunities for experimentation. beads, for example, while a smaller dry fly can float a larger dropper if this dropper has a glass bead rather than a metal one. Because glass beadheads are so much less common than metal beadheads, we believe heavily-pressured fish are much less likely to spook from glass-headed flies. Glass beads are also available in a huge range of colors and cost very little, which encourages experimentation. Craft stores such as Michael's usually carry many colors of glass beads in sizes 6/0 and 11/0 (the latter commonly referred to as seed beads), suitable for hook sizes 4-8 and 12-16, respectively, while 8/0 and 15/0 beads are available from many Internet bead stores. I like T & T Trading Beading Superstore ( The following tables give bead sizes and the hook sizes we believe appropriate for them. In general these suggestions are comparable to bead/hook sizing charts you ve probably seen elsewhere. Bead Size to Hook Size Table Metal Beads Glass Beads Bead Size Hook Size Bead Size Hook Size 1/16" # /0 # /64" # /0 # /32" # /0 #8-12 7/64" # /0 #4-8 1/8" # /32" #8-12 3/16" #4-8 19

30 For streamers that require additional weight, we usually use Spirit River I-Balz or Montana Fly Company Cyclops brass barbell eyes. We do not use lead eyes on flies we tie commercially, since lead weight of any kind is illegal in Yellowstone Park. Indeed, one of the reasons I developed the Swimming Minnow (page 192) is so we could stock a Clouser Minnow-type with nontoxic eyes instead of lead eyes. Somewhat unusually, we also do not use coneheads, despite their immense popularity these days. We believe brass barbell eyes in some form are almost always more effective than coneheads, since they add just as much weight, appear more Barbell eyes offer a wide range of advantages over coneheads, in our opinion. realistic to the fish when they have pre-painted eyes, and can flip the fly over so it rides weedless if they re tied atop the hook shank. I don't even know if I personally own any coneheads anymore. Thread As is the case with hooks and beads, we believe that thread brand is a matter of personal preference, most of the time. For general fly tying I prefer 6/0-8/0 Uni or MFC threads. Ben Jewell and Richard Parks almost always use Uni, while Matt Minch uses 6/0 Danville. Sometimes thread does make a difference, however. Doug Korn's specialized dubbing method wherein he takes the twist out of a length of thread, splits it into two strands, waxes the thread with ski wax, touch-dubs one of his custom dubbing blends onto both strands of thread, then retwists the thread to produce a fuzzy dubbing noodle, requires at least a flat thread and preferably one of the two diameters of Serafil shoemaker's thread he purchased online in 30,000 meter spools and reloads onto empty standard fly tying thread spools as needed. This is an extreme example but illustrates why there are so many thread types on the market. For most of the fly recipes in this book, I give a thread diameter and a color. While I personally use Uni or increasingly MFC threads, these recipes can be tied with whatever brand of thread you prefer provided diameter and color are similar. When I give a specific brand name of thread, this thread produces some specific effect that is helpful 20

31 There are some exceptions to this rule of buggy, multirole flies, of course. My Shimmer Nymphs undoubtedly imitate only mayfly nymphs. Even these flies display impressionistic elements, however, as the bright Diamond Braid bodies sparkle far more than real insects. Again, this quality is an attractive one rather than an imitative one, serving to grab the fish's attention in fast water. This tendency towards impressionistic attraction and bugginess invites experimentation. I encourage you to modify the following fly dressings to suit your local water and even to target different fish species. The qualities noted above perhaps help explain why numerous fish species besides trout are suckers for the following patterns, including carp, steelhead, various panfish, and bass. The flies in this section are presented in alphabetical order by fly name. Bead, Hare, and Copper, Minch's Color Photo Page 200 Introduction Matt Minch designed the Bead, Hare, and Copper in 1992 after becoming acquainted with the simple hare's mask and wire nymphs popular on the South Island of New Zealand, where he wintered for many years. Beads were just arriving on the scene and Matt was already convinced of how much they increased the effectiveness of 30

32 preexisting flies, so he first added a bead to the hare and wire nymph. Well-marked natural brown partridge had long been one of Matt's favorite materials, so his next step was adding a tail and legs of this material for additional mottling and motion. The result is a deceptively simple but extremely effective attractor nymph. While the "BHC" as it is commonly known is most suggestive of mayflies, and is marketed as such by the wholesaler Montana Fly Company, its fairly chubby proportions, heavy rib, and lack of a clearly defined wing case are also suggestive of caddis larvae and pupae and stonefly nymphs. This fact means the fly can be fished using a variety of methods. In large sizes (#10-14), it is most commonly fished dead drift as part of a double nymph rig. In smaller sizes (#16-18 or even #20) it can also be fished as a dropper under even small dries. It is particularly effective in this latter role on heavily fished sections of the Yellowstone and Madison, where its drab, nondescript appearance that s just a little bit different than that of the Gold Ribbed Hare s Ear does not threaten fish that see a lot of flies and get caught many times per season. At the beginning of caddis hatches, it can be extremely effective when fished on a swing, and in ponds it is often fished with a hand-twist or slow strip retrieve. In the Yellowstone region, the BHC is critically important if you plan to fish the Yellowstone, Gardner, or Madison Rivers. On the latter two rivers it always ranks among Parks' Fly Shop's top three flies for fall-run brown trout. It is effective elsewhere, too, which explains why it holds a prominent place in one of my "All the Time" nymph boxes. Recipe Hook: 1xl Nymph, # Bead: Copper, brass or tungsten. Thread: Tan 6/0. Tail: center section of a natural brown partridge feather. Abdomen: Hareline Dubbin hare's ear #1 (natural light shade of hare s ear) dubbing, dubbed full and rough. Rib: Copper Uni-wire, heavier than usual for the fly size. Typically we use size large for #10-12, medium for #14-16, and small for # Legs: Remaining portion of the partridge feather used for the tail, secured "vee" style. 31

33 Head: Same as abdomen. Tying Procedure 1. Slide on the bead, secure the thread and lay a thread base to the bend. 2. Clip the center from a well-mottled natural brown partridge feather (from the center of the skin). Secure. The tail should be about 3/4 as long as long as the hook shank. Do not discard the remaining portion of the feather. 3. Spiral the thread forward almost to the bead. Secure the copper wire rib and overwrap back almost to the tail. 4. Dub a full abdomen of Hareline Dubbin (or another Hare s Ear blend) to roughly one bead-length behind the bead. 5. Wind the wire forward in 5-7 open turns. Secure and clip excess. 6. Secure the remaining portion of the partridge feather to either side of the body, vee-style. The legs should extend no farther than the end of the body. 7. Dub a full head using the same dubbing used for the abdomen. Whip finish and apply head cement. Variations and Notes 1. The "Copper Matt" includes an extra turn or two of wire and features a peacock herl head instead of a dubbed head. This version is arguably even better during caddis hatches. View from above showing leg positioning on the Bead, Hare, and Copper. 2. Ben Jewell s egg-sucking variation replaces the copper bead with an oversized pink-lined orange glass bead and is particularly effective in spring and fall, when the trout see a lot of eggs. We have found the particular bead we use for this variation only at Jo-Ann Craft and Fabric, but similar orange beads should work. Look for 6/0-8/0 glass beads for this purpose and use them on flies from # You could certainly wrap a few turns of lead or lead-free wire before starting the thread, if you desire even more weight. 32

34 Four Feather, Wiese s Color Photo Page 200 Introduction The Four Feather is the second fly I developed after coming to work for Parks' Fly Shop in As the name suggests, it combines four extremely buggy and effective feather fibers: lemon wood duck, natural gray ostrich herl, pheasant tail, and peacock herl. While the resulting nymph has proven extremely effective from Washington State to the East Coast and was one of the first flies I sold commercially, this arrangement of feather fibers does not reflect any particular genius on my part: I developed the fly primarily because at the time I was unhappy with my skills at working with dubbing but could work with feathers pretty well. Thus the fact that the Four-Feather turned out to be effective was pure good luck. At any rate, the Four-Feather is an excellent generic mayfly nymph and is a good choice when the fish aren't keying on any particular insect. It is also a good lake mayfly nymph, since it most closely resembles the Callibaetis mayflies that are the most important mayflies in Rocky Mountain lakes. The four different feathers and the under-wingcase of gold or tan Krystal Flash provide many different strike triggers for fish to key on, and both the peacock herl thorax and ostrich herl abdomen feature a great deal of lifelike fine movement. Right after runoff the Four Feather is effective in large sizes as part of a double nymph rig, in much the same role as you would use a 33

35 large beadhead Prince. In late summer and fall, go much smaller, to size flies, either as a component of a nymph rig or in dry-dropper combinations. In the Yellowstone region the Four Feather has proven most effective in the Yellowstone and Firehole Rivers, but I allocate three compartments to it in one of my "All the Time" nymph boxes, one for #12, on for #14, and one for # The Four Feather was available from MFC for several years, but unfortunately they will no longer be producing it after the 2013 season, so you ll either need to buy the fly from us or tie your own. Recipe Hook: 1xl nymph, # Bead: Gold brass. Thread: Dark brown, 6/0 on #12-14, 8/0 on # Tail: Lemon wood duck flank. Abdomen: Two to four strands of natural gray ostrich herl. Use four strands for #12, three for #14, two for #16, and two smaller herl strands from the tip of the ostrich plume for #18. Rib: Gold Uni-wire. Use size medium for #12-14 and size small for # Wingcase: Pheasant tail fibers. Under-wingcase: Gold or tan Krystal Flash. Use eight strands for #12 and reduce by two strands per hook size. Thorax: Peacock herl. Use 4-5 strands for #12 and reduce by one strand per hook size. Legs: 1-3 strands of Krystal Flash from the underwingcase to either side, followed by the ends of the pheasant tail fibers used for the wingcase. Tying Procedure 1. Slide on the bead. Start the thread and lay a thread base to the bend. 2. Secure a tail of lemon wood duck fibers. The tail s length should be about the same as the hook shank, not including the portion covered by the bead. I like the tail on this fly to be pretty robust, especially in sizes Secure the ostrich herl strands by their tips. On larger sizes, leave the tag ends of the herl extending forward, but clip them on size flies. 34

36 4. Secure the gold wire and overwrap it (and the herl tags, if applicable) 60% of the way forward to the bead. 5. Create a tapered underbody if desired, then wrap the ostrich herl forward and secure. Trim excess 6. Spiral the rib forward in 5-6 open turns and secure. Brush the body with a trimmed toothbrush dubbing brush (see page 14) to free any trapped herl fibers. 7. Trim the ostrich fibers from the top and bottom of the fly to create a flattened profile. I suspect commercial versions of this fly produced by MFC in Thailand omit this step, but it sure looks good. 8. Secure the pheasant tail wingcase, followed by the Krystal Flash under-wingcase. 9. Secure peacock herl strands by their tips and spiral the thread forward to just behind the bead. 10. Apply a drop of superglue to the thread base under the thorax, then wrap the peacock herl forward and secure. Clip excess. 11. Pull the under-wingcase forward and secure. Bind down 1-2 strands of Krystal Flash to either side of the fly to serve as legs. Trim the remaining flash. Detail of wingcase and legs. Notice how the Krystal Flash shows through the sparse covering of pheasant tail fibers. This is intentional. 12. Pull the wingcase forward and secure. Using a bodkin, split the pheasant tail fibers 50/50 and tie them back to either side of the fly to serve as the remainder of the legs. 13. Whip finish and cement. Trim the legs slightly longer than the thorax. Variations and Notes 1. This fly is also effective in olive, brown, and a combination of the two. Try twisting together ostrich herl strands of different colors to achive mottled effects. 2. Try to select ostrich herl strands that feature a pronounced taper in the length of their fibers from tip to base. It is easier to create a proper taper on the finished fly with herl that is already tapered. 35

37 muddy water the profile of Doug's Holiday Stones seems larger than that of other stonefly imitations of the same hook size. The Golden Holiday Stone is presented here. Recipe Hook: 3xl nymph, # Bead: Gold, brass or tungsten. Thread: 120 brown Serafil or light brown or yellow 6/0. Tails: Pair of olive or natural goose biots, split around a ball of dubbing into a vee shape. Flashback: Pearl Easter basket grass (hence the name of the fly). If you don t have any of this material, substitute thin skin or one of the mylar flashback materials. Even large tinsel or Magnum Flashabou strands are too narrow to work properly. Abdomen: Mustard-colored acrylic yarn wrapped as-is or chopped into dubbing, or gold Hareline Dubbin. Rib: Clear 3x monofilament or gold wire. Thorax: Same as abdomen. Legs: Two pairs of olive or natural biots. Wingcase: Extension of flashback, folded back on itself twice to create wing pads. Tying Procedure 1. Slide on the bead, start the thread, and lay a thread base to the bend. 2. Dub a small ball of gold dubbing. The yarn used for the body chopped up fine works well, or you can choose a sparkly blend to add contrast and even more flash. 3. Secure a pair of turkey biots, one on either side of the dubbing ball. The tails should be 1/2 to 2/3 as long as the hook shank. 4. Spiral thread forward to the 60% point and tie in the flashback material. Wrap back to the tail tie-in point using touching turns of thread, taking care to keep the flashback material on top the hook. 5. If using yarn without chopping it into dubbing, secure it and wrap over the tag end to the 60% point. If dubbing the abdomen, skip this step. 6. Secure the rib material and overwrap the tag end to the 60% point. 40

38 7. Wrap the yarn or dub the body forward. If wrapping yarn, secure but do not trim excess when you reach the 60% point. 8. Pull the flashback forward and secure. Do not trim the remaining material. Overwrap the material 2/5 of the remaining distance to the bead. Return the thread to the end of the abdomen 9. Rib with 5-6 turns of the material. Trim the excess material. 10. Dub or wrap the yarn up to the point where the flash material is Below and on top the next page: constructing the thorax, wingcase, and legs. The materials for the fly have been changed to increase contrast. hanging. Secure the yarn if you are using it, but again do not trim excess. This step creates the rear half of the thorax. 11. Fold the Easter basket grass back over the top of the fly. At the rear of the thorax, fold it once again, using a bodkin to create a sharp crease. Secure once again at the original fold. This creates a loop of material resembling the natural nymph s wing pad over the portion of the thorax you created in step Tie in a pair of goose biots, one on either side of the thoroax. These legs should be about the same length as the tails. 13. Overwrap flash material 2/5 of the remaining distance to the bead. 14. Repeat steps to create the front portion of the thorax and the front wing pad. Trim remaining yarn (if applicable) and Easter grass. 15. Roughly dub the remaining short portion of the hook shank to cover the thread wraps. Whip finish. 16. Apply a large drop of head cement at each point where you've secured 41

39 biots. This cement will soak into much of the body, creating a somewhat random blotchy appearance and significantly strengthening the fly. Variations and Notes 1. For the black version, enlarge the hook to #4-6, replace gold wire or mono with copper wire, and replace the thread, body material, and biots with black equivalents. 2. Holiday Stones are also effective when tied on a 3xl curved shank nymph hook such as the Dai-Riki #285. Hula Princess, Wiese s Color Photo Page 202 Introduction I designed the Hula Princess in 2007 as a "changeup" for the standard beadhead Prince, which is probably the most popular nymph 42

40 in the Yellowstone region and therefore one the fish get sick of seeing. We had often remarked in the shop that the Prince is essentially the nymph version of what was for many years our most popular dry fly, the Coachman Trude. With the Hula Princess, I thought to make a fly that looked even more like a Trude, with a caddis pupa-like profile. The resulting fly has proven very effective as a dropper nymph (often under a Trude) in #14-16, while it also works fished deep as large as #12. The fly's name derives from its appearance. Since it's more restrained than a Prince, I decided it was a Princess. The "hula" part comes from the brown ostrich collar, which I thought resembled a hula skirt. You can see a lot of strange things when you tie flies all winter The Hula Princess was available from MFC, but they have dropped it for the 2014 production year so availability outside of Parks Fly Shop will shortly become limited. Recipe Hook: Heavy-wire scud, #12-16 Bead: Gold brass. Thread: Dark brown 6/0 on #12, 8/0 on # Abdomen: Peacock herl: three to four strands on #12, two to three strands on #14, two strands on #16. Rib: Gold Ultra Wire: medium on #12, brassie on #14, small on #16. Wing: White Widow s Web or other synthetic yarn, Serendipity-style. Head: 2-4 strands of brown ostrich herl, depending on fly size and fluffiness of herl. Tying Procedure 1. Slide the bead on the hook and lay a thread base to a point well down the bend. 2. Secure the peacock herl strands by their tips on the near side of shank. Clip the tag ends. 3. Secure the wire on the lower near side of the shank. Overwrap the wire 3/4 of the way up the shank before trimming the tag. 4. Apply a drop of superglue to the thread base, then wrap the peacock herl forward. Secure and clip excess. The superglue will reinforce the herl body and keep it from unraveling better than wire alone. 43

41 5. Spiral the rib forward in 5-6 turns. Secure. 6. Secure a bundle of white crinkly synthetic yarn as a wing. The wing should extend only about 1/3 of the way back towards the end of the body. If you tie it in too long at first, the fly s effectiveness will be unchanged if you cut the wing to length. 7. Secure the ostrich herl strands by their tips and spiral the thread forward to immediately behind the bead. 8. Apply superglue to the ostrich tie-in point and over the thread wraps securing the wing and wrap the ostrich forward. Use only two thread wraps to secure the ostrich at the front of the hook. Trim excess. 9. Whip finish and clip thread. Use only a three turn whip finish to keep from building an unsightly bulge behind the bead. The superglue provides enough support that you could probably get away without whip finishing at all. Variations and Notes 1. Since the head is underlain by superglue, head cement is not necessary. 2. This fly is ripe for experimentation using various combinations of either dyed peacock herl or flashy dubbing such as Ice Dub for the abdomen and different colors of ostrich herl (or multiple colors twisted into a rope) for the head. 44

42 Lucent Prince Series, Wiese s Color Photo Page 202 Introduction Over the past ten or twelve years, many variations on the standard Prince and Beadhead Prince have become popular. This is hardly surprising given the immense effectiveness of the basic pattern. Parks Fly Shop guides and other staff were generally suspicious of these variations, mostly because many of them subtracted the body material that we felt made the fly effective, the peacock herl. In fact, the only Prince variation we regularly stocked was Montana Fly Company s Olive Montana Prince, which features a wire abdomen but a peacock herl thorax. In 2011, Montana Fly Company unveiled a new line of very fine diameter spooled flash chenille called Micro Lucent Chenille that made me begin to rethink my suspicion of messing with the basic Prince Nymph. This chenille features fine fibers that mimic the movement of peacock herl and provide plenty of sparkle, but lacks the overwhelming brightness of some flash chenilles. Moreover, I noticed it was about the same diameter as the rope of 2-5 strands of peacock herl required for the common sizes of Prince Nymph, but promised to be much more durable. Still, with the pressures of fly tying orders and the guiding season, it was early August before I started to experiment with the material. 45

43 Skinny Bugger Damsel, Minch s Stonefly Nymph Series, Minch s 205

44 Hen Wing Caddis Series, Korn s Purple Phase Emerger, Wiese s 210

45 Tweeter Series, Korn s Bob Hopper Series, Wiese s 215

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