Shaping Fashion. Evolution of garment styling through the range of cut-and-sew garments Structure and style variations of cut-inone

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1 Chapter 10 Shaping Fashion Learning Objectives Evolution of garment styling through the range of cut-and-sew garments Structure and style variations of cut-inone dresses Seams and darts as ways to shape flat fabric into a hollow form resting on the armature of the body Styling and positions of waistline seams Separates jackets, skirts, pants as families linked by characteristics of the patternmaking and structure Brannon Chapter Fairchild Books, A Division of Condé Nast 2 Introduction Fabric as a structural material requires an armature the body Fabric and Body Shape How can fabric be made to take the shape of the body? The body is complex because: The form is symmetrical from the front and asymmetrical from the side Circumference measurements vary; the waist is narrower than the shoulders, bust or chest, and hips Circumference measurements vary in contour What body structures support the garment, and where does it hang free? Where will the garment fit tight and where loose? Which parts of the body will be covered and which revealed? Brannon Chapter Fairchild Books, A Division of Condé Nast 3 Brannon Chapter Fairchild Books, A Division of Condé Nast 4 Strategy 1: Avoid Cutting the Fabric and Wrap Ancient Egyptians working with linen kept the fabric intact with few seams and little sewing Strategy 2: Cut Fabric into Shaped Pieces and Reassemble Strategy changes from keeping fabric intact to cutting fabric into pieces and reassembling them into garments The same strategy is used in traditional societies and often imitated in fashion Brannon Chapter Fairchild Books, A Division of Condé Nast 5 Brannon Chapter Fairchild Books, A Division of Condé Nast 6 1

2 The Cut-in-One The shift, sheath, and princess-line silhouettes are cut-in-one dresses those lacking a waistline seam The Shift Shift dress circumference allows the broadest part of the body to fit inside The triangle runs from edge to edge and the stitching line becomes a seam A dart is a removal of a triangle of fabric to fit a curve Brannon Chapter Fairchild Books, A Division of Condé Nast 7 Brannon Chapter Fairchild Books, A Division of Condé Nast 8 The Shift Patternmakers create a sloper Most important t location marks on the sloper are the centerfront and centerback Graduated flare below the waist turns the shift into an A-line dress The Sheath Molds to the body shape Patternmakers distribute the subtracted inches around the body at the two side seams and in double-pointed darts front and back Brannon Chapter Fairchild Books, A Division of Condé Nast 9 Brannon Chapter Fairchild Books, A Division of Condé Nast 10 The Princess-Line Shifts the bust dart from the side seam to the shoulder then links the shoulder and waistline darts into vertical seams that follow the contour of the body s curves In dressmaking terms, a panel is called a gore The Princess-Line Infinite styling options Change the size of panels Increase the flare on each panel Insert extra godets Create a coat-dress Add collar and sleeves Use pockets, trim, and buttons Brannon Chapter Fairchild Books, A Division of Condé Nast 11 Brannon Chapter Fairchild Books, A Division of Condé Nast 12 2

3 Waistline-Seam es Adding a waistline seam increases the fitting and styling options while giving the wearer greater mobility The shoulder supports the bodice, and the waistline supports the skirt the bodice and skirt move more independently The Shirtwaist Opportunity to pair the fitted or semi-fitted top with skirts ranging from straight to full The basic sloper for a shirtwaist dress has a waistline seam with darts above and below in the front and back Brannon Chapter Fairchild Books, A Division of Condé Nast 13 Brannon Chapter Fairchild Books, A Division of Condé Nast 14 The Shirtwaist Dart equivalent or a traditional dart The classic shirtwaist dress often had a yoke Brannon Chapter Fairchild Books, A Division of Condé Nast 15 Brannon Chapter Fairchild Books, A Division of Condé Nast 16 Drop Waist and Empire Waist Ignoring the natural waist creates new silhouettes Empire waist raises the horizontal seam from the natural waist to just below the bustline Drop waist lowers the seam to a point on the hips Two-Piece Ensembles The drop-waist style points the way to styling two-piece ensembles: a top or jacket that ends below the waist combined with a skirt Designer s task is to find the best combination of top and bottom and complete the look with design details Brannon Chapter Fairchild Books, A Division of Condé Nast 17 Brannon Chapter Fairchild Books, A Division of Condé Nast 18 3

4 Jacket Styles Part of a two-piece ensemble meant to be worn closed without a blouse (dress maker suit). Part of a three-piece ensemble worn as an outer layer over other garments. Cardigan-style jacket with a center front opening and no collar. Jacket Styles One row of buttons makes a single-breasted jacket; two rows make a double- breasted jacket Brannon Chapter Fairchild Books, A Division of Condé Nast 19 Brannon Chapter Fairchild Books, A Division of Condé Nast 20 4 silhouette categories Straight Flare Draped and pegged Pleated Different hem lengths Straight skirts can use gathers or pleats to control waistline fullness Brannon Chapter Fairchild Books, A Division of Condé Nast 21 Brannon Chapter Fairchild Books, A Division of Condé Nast 22 Gore skirt, trumpet skirt Straight pleats (no shaping) Draped-and-pegged and pegged skirts Contoured pleats Brannon Chapter Fairchild Books, A Division of Condé Nast 23 Brannon Chapter Fairchild Books, A Division of Condé Nast 24 4

5 Trousers Jeans Tapered pleats Inverted pleats Box pleats Pant Styles Knife pleats Sunray, sunburst, or crystal pleats Basic garment remains the same for men, women, or children a bifurcated garment with a fitted waist Palazzo Bell bottoms Style variations depend on: Fit Leg shape Waistline fit Waistline styling Details Brannon Chapter Fairchild Books, A Division of Condé Nast 25 Brannon Chapter Fairchild Books, A Division of Condé Nast 26 Pant Styles Darts or dart equivalents reduce the circumference at the hipline to the waistline measurement Back darts often omitted from patterns for men A dhoti is a pant-like garment, I which fullness substitutes for the crotch seam Brannon Chapter Fairchild Books, A Division of Condé Nast 28 Chapter Summary The evolution of cut began with increasing volume, keeping the fabric whole, and wrapping With cut-and-sew, designers gained a repertoire of methods to shape flexible, flat fabric into three-dimensional forms to enclose the body Adding a waistline seam increases design options because the top and bottom of the dress move more independently The secret to exploring variety depends on understanding the sloper and how to manipulate it during patternmaking Brannon Chapter Fairchild Books, A Division of Condé Nast 29 5

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