Green Tools Handbook for Textile Industries. A guide on main product and system certifications focused on ecological improvement of textile products

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1 Green Tools Handbook for Textile Industries A guide on main product and system certifications focused on ecological improvement of textile products

2 This publication has been developed in the frame of project TexEASTile Sustainable Innovation for Textile in South East Europe that has been co-funded by South East Europe, Transnational Cooperation Programme Green Tools Handbook 2

3 Summary Introduction... 5 Product Certifications Ecolabel GOTS OekoTex Standard Organic Exchange System Certifications Environmental Management System (EMS) EMAS ISO ISO 9001 Quality Management Systems (QMS) Oeko-Tex Standard The Social Accountability 8000 (SA8000) Product Certifications Comparison OekoTex Standard 100 vs Ecolabel Oeko-Tex Standard 100 vs GOTS GOTS vs Ecolabel Organic Exchange vs GOTS System Certifications Comparison ISO vs EMAS vs Oeko-Tex Standard SA8000 vs Oeko-Tex Standard ISO vs ISO Green Tools Handbook 3

4 Green Tools Handbook 4

5 Introduction The competitiveness of enterprises gets through to the response to the needs of customers (buyers, consumers, users) and improving the quality of products and services offered. Textile industry is one of the most developing and one of the most represented branch of industry and economy in general, both in Europe and in the world and has large impact for employment, particularly women (according statistics about 75% of employees in textile industry are women). Recent trends in development of industries in the European Union are moving towards on development of production processes, improvement of product quality and environmental protection in the different processes and final products. Taking into account open market and new products which are not controlled and do not meet certain standards, particularly in terms of safety to human health, new set of standards is introduced as well as certification needed to make product (including textile products) safe, environmentally acceptable with high quality standards. Specifically, for textile products several certifications has been introduced to guarantee the accuracy, safety and green components in the process of production and processing. More and more textile companies are producing and offering eco-sustainable products. From the best-known names that have developed lines of recycled / recyclable clothing to small subcontracting enterprises the key word is "to produce environmentally friendly", but who must buy, be it a private or public entity, not always may be aware of the specifications of the various certifications and then guiding the choices is often not a simple undertaking. This brief guide to the most popular ecological product and system certifications in the textile industry aims to try to clarify the main differences of the various standards and identify strengths and weaknesses and then provide help to those who wish to deepen the technical aspects and operational implementation. Among the ecological system certifications the ISO standard is certainly the most widely used, followed by EMAS Regulation (Regulation (EC) n. 761/2001) the EU eco-management and audit system. Both are voluntary certifications to businesses and organizations, public or private, who want to be responsible for assessing and improving their environmental performance. Green Tools Handbook 5

6 It is not a certification specific to the textile sector, nor a product mark, that is they do not give guarantees for a green product but ensure that the certificate holder complies with mandatory environmental requirements and sets goals for improving its environmental performance (e.g. reduction of waste production, reduction of water consumption, etc.). As for the ecological product labels the most popular one in the textile industry is definitely the Oeko-Tex Standard 100, certified companies in the world are about 7.000, and many more products. This is a private standard that certifies the compatibility of textiles with the intended use from the standpoint of human health. To achieve this certification used chemicals must be selected and laboratory tests on the finished product must be performed. This mark is not a guarantee of an ecological product, either during production or end of life, but states that the product is free from harmful substances while using; the standard also includes some product performance requirements (e.g. colour fastness). Another product label, specifically textile, which is having some success is the Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) that is the certification of textile products made from organically grown natural fibers. This certification begins with recognizing the growing environmental, social and health problems associated with the production and use of conventional cotton. To obtain such certification supplies must be certified from organic natural fibers, and we must select and limit the chemicals used during the finishing of the fabric. Another ecological label product is the Community Ecolabel Mark (Regulation EC n.1980/2000), not primarily in textiles but also applicable to textiles, for which there are specific requirements. It is a European mark for a product that guarantees environmentally friendly characteristics throughout its life cycle (raw materials, production, end of life). In addition to the ecological requirements are also needed some performance requirements. The so-called environmental product declarations are a little known but deserving of attention. It is a tool designed to improve environmental communication between producers on one side (business to business) and other distributors and consumers (business to consumers). These statements report the environmental impacts of a product throughout its life cycle (cradle to grave, that is from the production of raw materials to end of life). For environmental impacts, for example, it refers to the emission of carbon dioxide or the production of waste of a functional unit, which may be a square meter of fabric or a clothes. This information, validated by an independent third party, may be useful to purchasers to compare two similar products and choose the one with the lowest environmental impact. The problem today is that such statements are not widely used, although it is a very interesting tool to make purchasing decisions on the environmental awareness based on objective data and validated. Green Tools Handbook 6

7 To finish the list of the ecological product labels, certainly not exhaustive, finally we should mention the lines of recycled / recyclable clothing (mostly run, as we said earlier, from private brand). The terms (and related pictograms) "recycled material" or "recyclable material" placed on clothing or any other product are voluntary self-declared environmental claims and do not have a verification by an independent third party, but you can request it and an evidence should there be in that case. This handbook will cover the main product certifications (Ecolabel, Oeko-Tex Standard 100, GOTS, Organic Exchange) and the main system certifications (ISO 14001, ISO 9001, Oeko-Tex Standard 1000, SA 8000). Next will be compared with each other, respectively, the requirements expressed by the standard for product certification and those expressed by the standard for system certification. In conclusion we can say that, before applying for, or purchasing on the basis of, any ecological label you should have clear understanding of the needs of the public or private entity on whose behalf you buy a product. Besides possibly you should deepen the specification of any certification; only in this way you will be engaged in a focused and conscious choice Green Tools Handbook 7

8 Product Certifications 1 Ecolabel The European Ecolabel was launched in 1992 as a voluntary scheme, in order to help businesses to market environment-friendly products and services. The label was designed as a special part of the action plan on Sustainable Consumption and Production and Sustainable Industrial Policy adopted by the Commission on 16 July The current criteria were put into effect by the Commission Decision of 9 July, These criteria are valid until 10 July, Meantime, the Joint Research Centre of the EU is working on the revision and further criteria development. Products and services awarded the Ecolabel carry the flower logo, allowing consumers - including public and private purchasers - to identify them easily. Τhe EU Ecolabel covers a wide range of products and services, with further groups being continuously added. Product groups include cleaning products, appliances, paper products, textile and home and garden products, lubricants and services such as tourist accommodation. Ecolabel then, is an environmental label that can be requested on a voluntary basis. In order to obtain the Ecolabel, organisations must match the selection criteria defined by the European Commission on the basis of the life-cycle analysis of a product or service, starting from raw material extraction in the pre-production stage, through the production, distribution and disposal. The logo on textile products indicates that any harmful substances (on water or air) have been limited during the production, while the textile still fulfils various quality criteria, i.e. the products do not loose colour or shrink more than a conventional textile product. In addition, the risks of allergic reactions are also reduced. 1.1 Key Criteria The EU Ecolabel is part of a broader action plan on Sustainable Consumption and Production and Sustainable Industrial Policy adopted by the Commission on 16 July Concerning the textile products, there are Commission Decisions that set the criteria to be followed: Commission Decision 2009/567/EC, sets up the criteria for: Textile clothing and accessories: clothing and accessories consisting of at least 90 % by weight of textile fibres; Interior textiles: textile products for interior use consisting of at least 90 % by weight of textile fibres. Wall and floor coverings are excluded; Green Tools Handbook 8

9 Fibres, yarn and fabrics: intended for use in textile clothing and accessories or interior textiles. Full Criteria Commission Decision No. 2009/598/EC sets up the criteria for Bed mattresses Commission Decision No. 2009/563/EC sets the criteria for Footwear In relevant directive, each product group criteria specifies the compliance declarations, testing and verification required. The criteria may require the applicant to get also independent verification of test results. Concerning the textiles, main criteria refer to: Textile fibres criteria Processes and chemicals criteria Fitness for use criteria The Ecolabel logo on textile products shows: A limited use of substances harmful to the environment Limited substances harmful to health Reduced water and air pollution Textile shrink resistance during washing and drying Colour resistance to perspiration, washing, wet and dry rubbing and light exposure No mineral fibres, glass fibres, metal fibres, carbon fibres and other inorganic fibres have been used There are limitations (of residues) of certain pesticides There are No lead based pigments used There is a certain limitation to the use of zinc and copper No heavy metals and formaldehyde are present No azo dyes, no dyes classified as carcinogenic, mutagenic, toxic for reproduction, no plasticizers or solvents have been used, etc. Green Tools Handbook 9

10 1.2 Quality Assurance System The compliance with Ecolabel is ensured through certain measurements taken: The Requirements to achieve certification (i.e. the chain of custody, the site visits, other metrics) Audit and surveillance requirements, as well as The Duration of certification, time to achieve certification, reviewing, retesting, etc. 1.3 Steps to be followed A simple process is followed for certification; a company that wants to certify one product or more should: Select the product group to be certified Building up the dossier A dossier should contain information of the product to be certified (materials, way of manufacturing or producing, etc.), along with technical information like a general Description of the Company, the Description of the manufacturing processes, the Recording of chemicals used, the - List of suppliers, or - Additional Supporting Information, like o other certifications, etc. Moreover, Results of the product(s) tests provided by a certified laboratory are to be included in the dossier and then submitted to the Competent Body. Product testing - The laboratory has to be certified under ISO or equivalent. For more information on the test method contact the Competent Body. - It has to be accepted by the Competent Body. - The applicant must communicate all the required information on the laboratory to the CB. Application approval - Ecological and performance criteria for your products will be assessed, according to the documentation sent. - A visit of your manufacturing facility may be organised in order to ensure compliance with the criteria. After receiving all the documents, the Competent Body will assess the products environmental performance and their compliance with the criteria according to relevant EU Decision (depending on the product) and product assessment/ criteria. Green Tools Handbook 10

11 Contract holders must be ready at any time for the Competent Body to inspect the production site and test the products. The award of the Ecolabel applies the continuous compliance with the requirements. The contract holder must keep a journal on the test results and the relevant documentation. If the data on the tests suggest that the products are not meeting the criteria any more, the contract holder must inform the Competent Body which will make the appropriate decisions (e.g. a demand for additional measurements, suspension of the label etc). Evaluation of Application is made by auditors of National Competent Body. If Application is approved, then Auditing of the company by national auditors, follows. Awarding of the EU Ecolabel The Competent Body will send an official certificate. Competent Bodies are independent and impartial organisations, responsible for implementing the EU Ecolabel scheme at national level. They are members of the EUEB responsible for drafting Ecolabel criteria, assessing applications and awarding the Ecolabel to companies that apply. They play a central role in the operation of the EU Ecolabel scheme and should be the first point of contact for any questions. The Use the logo (EU flower) on the products is only permitted after the certificate is awarded. 1.4 Other Important Information Validity Certification award lasts for 3 years, and/or until revision of the criteria, and the manufacturer is obliged: To follow all the relevant criteria To test products and keep records proving that all specifications are met at least annually To inform the certification body on any change on suppliers or in manufacturing process To pay relevant fees to the national certification body Technical Support and Consulting can be given by the National Competent Body. Certification bodies In each EU country there is established the National Competent Body, which is responsible for the management and award for Eco-label Scheme. Only accredited Independent Textile Institutes, recognised by the National Competent Body may perform the testing needed and also consult the company. Costs for the certification Green Tools Handbook 11

12 Application fee (depending also on size of the company) - paid with application. Application fee covers the costs of processing the application, and may vary from 200 to Euros. Reductions can be at a max. of 600 for SMEs and applicants from developing countries; and at a max. of 350 for micro-enterprises. A 20% reduction for companies registered under EMAS or certified under ISO is also provisioned. Maintenance fees paid annually. Annual fee for the use of the Ecolabel equals to a max of A fee of 750 for SMEs and applicants from developing countries and a max of 350 for micro-enterprises is provisioned. Preparation costs include Costs for testing of the products (depending on the product) and Costs for the consulting (when necessary) Benefits The labelling of products with the EU flower, may also offer several benefits: Marketing tool Competitive advantage for Green Procurement Respect to the consumers and environment Sustainability of enterprise Corporate Social Responsibility for SMEs and Purchasers Communication tools are made available to enhance the value of the label: Ecolabelled products are promoted at international fairs News on the EU Ecolabel and awarded companies are published and sent Ecolabelled products are listed online in the Green Store Marketing guides and brochures are also available in the Ecolabel website. Important! Eco-Label products can be found everywhere in the market the EU-flower on the packaging or on the label of the product is the characteristic. Eco-label certification for products refers to the product itself and not to the company! It must not be false considered that all the products of the company are labelled. Official website: Green Tools Handbook 12

13 2 GOTS The Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) is a global, textile-specific standard, for organic fibres, including ecological and social criteria, backed up by independent certification of the entire textile supply chain. Its first version was launched in early 2006, and its current second version (2.0) was published in June, Since 2010 there is a current revision by the member organisations of the International Working Group ongoing, but no 3.0 version is defined yet. Only textile products that contain a minimum of 70% organic fibres can become certified according to GOTS. All chemical inputs s.a. dyestuffs and auxiliaries used must meet certain environmental and toxicological criteria and also the choice of accessories is limited under ecological aspects. A functional waste water treatment plant is mandatory for any wet-processing unit involved and all processors must comply with social minimum criteria. 2.1 Key Criteria The standard defines requirements for fibre products, yarns, fabrics and clothes and covers the production, processing, manufacturing, packaging, labelling, exportation, importation and distribution of all natural fibre products in order to ensure organic status of textiles. This standard focuses on compulsory criteria only. First of all, the fibres should be natural and have to be grown in an organic way, based on the production standards such as those laid down in the EEC organic Regulation 834/2007, or USDA NOP regulations. The key criteria for fibre production can be identified as: Organic certification of fibres on basis of recognised international or national standards (e.g. EEC 834/2007, USDA NOP) Certification of fibres from conversion period is possible if the applicable farming standard permits such certification A textile product carrying the GOTS label grade organic must contain a minimum of 95% certified organic fibres whereas a product with the label grade made with organic must contain a minimum of 70% certified organic fibres Secondly, the entire production process should be taken into account. This means that every processing step must meet certain criteria. The criteria for the production process are laid down in the Global Organic Textile Standards (GOTS). They encompass every process-step of textile production (spinning, weaving, washing, etc) and for every step it is laid down which processing aids may (not) be used, in order to gain as much environmental profit as possible. All chemical inputs, dyestuffs and auxiliaries used must meet certain environmental and toxicological criteria and also the choice of accessories is limited under ecological aspects. Green Tools Handbook 13

14 A functional waste water treatment plant is mandatory for any wet-processing unit involved and all processors must comply with social minimum criteria. Key criteria for processing and manufacturing include: At all stages through the processing organic fibre products must be separated from conventional fibre products and must to be clearly identified All chemical inputs (e.g. dyes, auxiliaries and process chemicals) must be evaluated and meeting basic requirements on toxicity and biodegradability/eliminability Prohibition of critical inputs such as toxic heavy metals, formaldehyde, aromatic solvents, functional nano particles, genetically modified organisms (GMO) and their enzymes The use of synthetic sizing agents is restricted; knitting and weaving oils must not contain heavy metals Bleaches must be based on oxygen (no chlorine bleaching) Azo dyes that release carcinogenic amine compounds are prohibited Discharge printing methods using aromatic solvents and plastisol printing methods using phthalates and PVC are prohibited Restrictions for accessories (e.g. no PVC, nickel or chrome permitted, any polyester must be post-consumer recycled from 2014 onwards) All operators must have an environmental policy including target goals and procedures to minimise waste and discharges Wet processing units must keep full records of the use of chemicals, energy, water consumption and waste water treatment, including the disposal of sludge. The waste water from all wet processing units must be treated in a functional waste water treatment plant. Packaging material must not contain PVC. From 1st January 2014 onwards any paper or cardboard used in packaging material, hang tags, swing tags etc. must be postconsumer recycled or certified according to FSC or PEFC Technical quality parameters must be met (s.a. rubbing, perspiration, light and washing fastness and shrinkage values) Raw materials, intermediates, final textile products as well as accessories must meet stringent limits regarding unwanted residues Minimum social criteria based on the key norms of the International Labour Organisation (ILO) must be met by all processors The two label s grades There are two specific subdivisions of the label (two grades), depending on the minimal percentage of organic components in the product % organic can contain a maximum of 5% of other, non-organic fibres 94-70% organic - can contain a maximum of 30% of other, non-organic fibres Green Tools Handbook 14

15 The non-organic fibres may also include defined regenerated and synthetic fibres, with some further restrictions (this can reach a maximum of 25% in case of socks, leggings and sportswear and 10% for all other textile products). It is prohibited to use organic and non-organic fibres of the same type (e.g. cotton) in one product. 2.2 Quality Assurance System Generally a company participating in the GOTS certification scheme must work in compliance with all criteria of the standard. GOTS relies on a dual system to check compliance with the relevant criteria consisting of on-site auditing and residue testing. Certification of the entire textile supply chain Fibre producers (farmers) must be certified according to a recognised international or national organic farming standard that is accepted in the country where the final product will be sold Certifiers of fibre producers must be internationally recognised according to ISO 65 and/or IFOAM accreditation. They also must be accredited to certify according to the applicable fibre standard Operators from post-harvest handling up to garment making and traders have to undergo an onsite annual inspection cycle and must hold a valid GOTS operational certificate applicable for the production / trade of the textiles to be certified Certifiers of processors, manufacturers and traders must be internationally accredited according to ISO 65 and must hold a GOTS accreditation in accordance with the rules as defined in the Approval Procedure and Requirements for Certification Bodies Residue Testing Stringent orientation values for unwanted residues are defined in the standard Licensed operators must undergo residue testing according to a risk assessment of contamination Additional samples may be taken by auditors and sent for analysis to ISO accredited labs 2.3 Steps to be followed Companies who wish to be certified should contact the appropriate GOTS approved certification body (available in Switzerland, Italy, Germany, the Netherlands, France, Turkey, Argentina, US, Great Britain - Generally a company participating in the GOTS certification scheme must work in compliance with all criteria of the standard. To apply for a GOTS certification, an organisation should follow the next steps: Green Tools Handbook 15

16 Identify the requirements of the standard GOTS; Establish activities in conformity with GOTS; Describe and implement the activities in conformity with GOTS; Contact a Certification Body and send: your APPLICATION for certification your Organic Handling and Production Plan. The plan will describe your recordkeeping, sources of organic product and inputs, environmental management practices, and the methods you use to prevent contamination with any prohibited inputs. A trained organic INSPECTOR, familiar with your type of operation, will contact you to schedule your annual inspection visit. The inspector will examine each component of the operation to verify your Plan is an accurate description of organic standards compliance and will summarize his or her findings during an interview. The following list describes the main elements that will be inspected in case a company wishes to be certified. Additional elements may also be used if the certifier sees that necessary: Review of book keeping in order to verify flow of GOTS goods (input/output reconciliation, mass balance calculation and trace back lots and shipments). This is a key aspect of the inspection of any operation that sells/trades GOTS goods. Assessment of the processing and storage system through of visits to the applicable facilities Assessment of the separation and identification system and identification of areas of risk to organic integrity Inspection of the chemical inputs (dyes and auxiliaries) and accessories used and assessment of their compliance with the applicable criteria of the GOTS Inspection of the waste water (pre-)treatment system of wet processors and assessment of its performance. Check on social minimum criteria (possible sources of information: interview with management, confidential interviews with workers, personnel documents, physical on-site inspection, unions/stakeholders) Verification of the operator's risk assessment of contamination and residue testing policy potentially including sample drawing for residue testing either as random sampling or in case of suspicion of contamination or non-compliance. Certification Body conducts a REVIEW of your application and of the inspector s report to evaluate compliance with the organic standards. A summary is presented to the Application Review Committee that makes the final certification decision. There are strong limitations for products wiht a GOTS certification regarding the use of chemicals, especially dyestuffs, prints and auxiliary agents. More than 2000 dyestuffs and 2850 auxiliaries have received the approval of the certifiers and therefore are allowed to be used in GOTS-certified production. The GOTS Certification Bodies keep on evaluting and monitoring the relevant chemical products. GOTS-conform chemical inputs must have available a material safety data sheet (MSDS) Green Tools Handbook 16

17 prepared according to one of the following norms/directives and containing appropriate information with regard to GOTS criteria in order to be used as accepted basic tool for evaluation: ANSI Z ISO /2006EEC (Reach) 2001/58/EEC GHS (Global Harmonised System) In addition, certifiers may conduct further information collection or laboratory tests before certifying a chemical input as GOTS-conform. After a successful audit, a certificate of registration to GOTS will be issued. 2.4 Other Important Information Validity depends on the type of the label and the contract with the Certification Body organic certification is valid for one year at which time it is necessary to renew and the above process is repeated. Certification bodies ONLY Certification Bodies recognized by the International Working Group on Global Organic Textile Standard. There are certain limitations regarding the accredited scope for which a certifier may offer GOTS certification. Certifiers of textile supply chain operators may be accredited to the following scopes: Certification of mechanical textile processing and manufacturing operations and their products (scope 1) Certification of wet processing and finishing operations and their products (scope 2) Certification of trading operations and related products (scope 3) Release of positive lists of chemical inputs (s.a. dyes and auxiliary agents) to the chemical industry (scope 4). Costs Preparation costs : the cost for implementing, developing and maintaining the system Certification cost: certification fees are determined by the type of operation, the products produced, and/or services provided. Benefits Green Tools Handbook 17

18 Besides being a positive ethical choice, ecological production and sustainable sourcing can lead to some important benefits for the business. These include: Make sure that the advantages of the natural fibres during the production of a garment are maintained All production steps, from fibre cultivation to the finished garment must correspond to the quality guidelines controlled by independent testing organisations Helping to comply with legislation by reducing the environmental impact Reducing costs for materials, equipment and running expenses (particularly when whole-life or 'cradle to grave' costs are considered); Increasing revenue by enhancing the company image for environmentally aware customers or end users; Forming an important part of the environmental management system, is helping towards certification of this system; Attracting investors who work to environmental or ethical principles efficiently. Important! Commercial activity is a crucial link in the textile value chain and the participation of traders, exporters, importers is necessary regarding the GOTS certification process. Those importers that sell GOTS certified final products that are received ready packed and labelled directly to the end consumer without having any trade function (such as selling to other retailers) are exempt from this certification requirement. Official website: International Working Group on Global Organic Textile Standard: Green Tools Handbook 18

19 3 OekoTex Standard 100 The Oeko-Tex Standard 100 is a green label for textile products, a uniform testing and certification system for textile raw materials, intermediate and end products at all stages of production. The use of the label depends on successful laboratory tests on all elements of the product The criteria that define the use of the Oeko-Tex label are globally uniform, making the certification an easy, standardised and transparent procedure for all potential actors The validity of the certificate is one year, with the option of further annual renewal The label works with a modular concept, therefore products in various phases of the textile process chain can be certified 3.1 Key Criteria Tests for harmful substances comprise substances which are prohibited or regulated by law, chemicals which are known to be harmful to health, and parameters which are included as a precautionary measure to safeguard health are included in the Oeko-Tex Scheme, in order to reassure the Human Ecology: safety for skin-friendly clothing and other textiles. The internationally binding test catalogue according to Oeko-Tex Standard 100 is based on scientifically proven parameters and is revised annually in line with the latest legislation and research. It includes: substances which are prohibited by law, such as carcinogenic dyestuffs substances which are regulated by law, such as formaldehyde, softeners, heavy metals or pentachlorophenol substances which according to current knowledge are harmful to health, but which are not yet regulated or prohibited by law, such as pesticides, allergy-inducing dyestuffs or tin-organic compounds parameters such as colourfastness and a skin-friendly ph-value, which are precautionary measures to safeguard consumers health There are 4 different classes for certification: delicate items worn next to the skin such as baby clothes, underwear or lingerie, for example, meet tougher standards than textiles that have little or no contact with the skin such as fabrics used for decorating. Product class I, refers to textiles and textile toys for babies and children up to the age of three, e.g. underwear, romper suits, bed linen, bedding, soft toys etc. Product class II, refers to textiles which, when used as intended, have a large part of their surface in direct contact with the skin, e.g. underwear, bed linen, terry goods, shirts, blouses etc. Green Tools Handbook 19

20 Product class III refers to textiles which, when used as intended, do not come into contact with the skin, or only have a small part of their surface in contact with the skin, e.g. jackets, coats, interlining materials etc. Product class IV refers to furnishing materials for decorative purposes such as table linen and curtains, but also textile wall and floor coverings etc. Some of these laboratory test parameters are simulation test sin order to decide whether harmful elements can infiltrate the human body through the skin or by inhalation. In order to raise the credibility of the testing system and the value of the label, the test institutes themselves are trained and tested as well: There are regular training and knowledge exchange exercise for the test institutes There are specific round-robin tests between the test institutes Test institutes have to follow a strict testing system defined in the internal guide book Test insitutes are audited by the representatives of the International Oeko-Tex Association 3.2 Quality Assurance System The Oeko-Tex Standard 100 is a voluntary system, but participating companies shall make a legally binding statement regarding the materials sent for testing (that they are identical to the textiles produced). This legal statement adds to the quality guarantees of the testing system. In the framework of this contract the applicant must sign a Declaration of Conformity, and accept the Quality Assurance of the Oeko-Tex Scheme and agree in any control testing that the Association or the Member Institutes perform. If new techniques or elements are introduced into the manufacturing, these should also have the relevant certificates and the textile produced with the application of these new elements or techniques must be re-tested. If the textile products no longer comply with the relevant criteria, the manufacturer shall make immediate steps in order to improve the production quality. After non-compliance on several occasions, the withdrawal of the existing Oeko-Tex certificate may be completely withdrawn. In addition, the International Oeko-Tex Association carries out test inspections on at least 15% of all issued certificates, including unannounced random samples at participating companies and also products bought on the open market. Since testing methods are designed for Oeko-Tex, all the tests carried out may be functioned exclusively by the authorised, independent textile research and testing institutes and only members of the Oeko-Tex Association can perform testing. Green Tools Handbook 20

21 External Auditors Besides the regular product controls, there are two independent auditors making unannounced site inspections on behalf of the International Oeko-Tex Association. These audits may confirm if the production conditions satisfy the requirements of the Oeko-Tex Standard 100 or if further steps should be taken in order to optimise the existing quality assurance system. 3.3 Steps to be followed For a product or group of products to be certified, the company must fill the Application form to Certification Body with details of the product and production and select representative sample material from your production/purchasing that will be tested. Then an individual test plan by OekoTex Institute will be draw up and the testing of the materials. Then a Declaration of Conformity by the applicant is signed, as a commitment of the applicant to respect Quality rules followed by the Oeko-Tex Certification Scheme. Schematically this procedure: Green Tools Handbook 21

22 3.4 Other Important Information Validity Certification award lasts for 1 year, always under obligation of the manufacturer: to accept OekoTex Regulations (quality assurance, copyright of label, etc.) to inform OekoTex Association on any changes on product or suppliers Certification bodies There is only one Institute member of the OekoTex Association per country. The Oeko-Tex Institute can also provide Technical Support to the company, while Oeko-Tex Association can provide marketing advices and support for companies that have certified products. Costs One year fee for certificate per product group, and testing costs depending on necessary testing are included in the cost for certification. The modular principle adopted by the Oeko-Tex Scheme permits lower certification costs when requirements are fulfilled by suppliers and already certified materials. The company visit and auditing cost is upon first certification and then every 3 years. Benefits The scheme Market Direction, globally uniform testing and certification system recognised for textile raw materials, intermediate and end products at all stages of production by large distributors worldwide: Test label provides an important decision-making tool when purchasing textiles. - For Purchasers: OekoTex Association performs testing on products in the market - For companies: checking of suppliers with spot-testing on B2B buyers OekoTex certified products may be found everywhere in the market you can recognise products by the Confidence in Textiles flower label on the packaging or on the product. Important! Oeko-Tex Standard 100 certification for products refers to the product itself and not to the company. Official website: Green Tools Handbook 22

23 4 Organic Exchange1 OE, Organic Exchange was founded in the US (Texas), but by now it has grown to being a successful non-profit organisation with a global multi-stakeholder approach to developing markets in the textile value chain. It has a European office (Upperwood, Freshford, Co. Kilkenny, Ireland). The organisation issues two standards, OE 100 Standard for organic cotton products and OE Blended Standard for mixed, blended textile products containing organic cotton elements. These standards are voluntary; companies are encouraged to use it as a way to ensure that they are receiving what they have requested from their suppliers, and to prove the integrity of their own claims. 4.1 OE 100 Standard The OE 100 Standard is a standard for tracking and documenting the purchase, handling and use of 100% certified organic cotton fibre in yarns, fabrics and finished goods. The OE 100 Standard helps ensure that consumers of organic cotton products can be confident that the product contains 100% certified organically farmed ingredients. It also provides a tool for companies to use in confirming that the products they are buying or selling contain the percentage of organic cotton that they have stated. Labeling to the OE 100 Standard If the company chooses to label the finished products as containing organic cotton, it may make reference to the OE Standard and use Made with 100% organically grown cotton only for products that contain 100% organic cotton Made with organically grown cotton, for products that contain 95% or more organic cotton, as long as the remaining content is not cotton. Requirements The OE 100 Standard requires companies to: Use cotton that was purchased from a farmer who is a certified organic producer Have 100% organic cotton content in their products exclusive of sewing thread and non textile accessories. Note that there is an allowance of up to 5% non cotton content. Handle the cotton in a manner that maintains its identity until it is spun into yarn 1 1 Based on Green Tools Handbook 23

24 Handle and label the yarns, fabrics and finished goods containing organic cotton so that the purchase and use of certified organic cotton can be verified at each step of the manufacturing process Maintain records that confirm that all required steps have been taken Have an independent, licensed third party certify compliance with the OE 100 Standard for every party involved in producing the product 4.2 OE Blended Standard The OE Blended Standard was developed in order to allow the labelling of goods made of mixed, blended components where there is a minimum 5% of organic cotton used. OE Blended Standard is applied for tracking and documenting the purchase, handling, and use of certified organically farmed cotton fibre in blended yarns, fabrics, and finished goods. Labelling to the OE Blended Standard If the company chooses to label the finished products as containing a blend, it should use the Made with X% organically grown cotton language, and make reference to the OE Blended Standard. X must represent the final percentage of organic cotton by weight in the finished product. Requirements Companies shall: Use cotton that was purchased from a farmer who is a certified organic producer Have a minimum of 5% organic cotton content in their products (exclusive of sewing thread and non textile accessories) Handle the cotton in a manner that maintains its identity until it is blended into yarn Handle and label the yarns, fabrics, and finished goods containing organic cotton so that the purchase and use of certified organic cotton can be verified at each step of the manufacturing process Maintain records that confirm that all required steps have been taken Have an independent, licensed third party certify compliance with the OE Blended Standard for every party involved in producing the product Green Tools Handbook 24

25 System Certifications 5 Environmental Management System (EMS) An Environmental Management System (EMS) is a set of processes and practices that enable an organisation to reduce its environmental impacts and improve operating efficiency. Increasingly, organisations are seeking to implement accredited schemes through which their environmental credentials can be evidenced. Traditionally, in order to assess the impact of their activities, products and services on the environment, many organisations have undertaken internal environmental performance reviews or audits. However, while such efforts can produce positive results, they are now increasing perceived as insufficient to provide the assurances that performance not only meets, but will continue to satisfy legal and strategic requirements. Hence, companies are now looking to adopt more structured environmental impact assessment mechanisms by implementing Environmental Management Systems (EMS) that are nationally or internationally recognised through accreditation by an independent third party. Today, two market-leading systems have emerged: ISO (an internationally accepted standard) and EMAS (a robust, European option). Each has unique advantages and weaknesses, and organisations must carefully consider their own objectives when assessing the suitability of candidate schemes. EMAS The second most prevalent standard designed to improve an organisation s environmental performance is the EU Eco-Management and Audit Scheme or EMAS. Its aim is to recognise and reward organisations that go beyond minimum legal compliance and continuously improve their environmental performance. Although similar in many ways to the ISO standard, with a plan-do-check-review cycle, with several stages either similar in name or function, they are somewhat different in their overall focus. One of the main areas where EMAS differs from the ISO standard is its emphasis on continual environmental performance evaluation and legal compliance. Unlike the ISO 14001, which has relatively little requirements in terms of reporting to external stakeholders, EMAS requires participants to publish an environmental statement annually that reports their environmental performance, the accuracy and reliability of which has been independently verified by a third party environmental assessor. Through such rigorous assessments, organisations undertaking EMAS can demonstrate their environmental credentials. Due to the added time and increased costs associated with implementing EMAS and its requirement to produce an annual publicly available environmental statement, many organisations, particularly smaller ones, are deterred from this option. Furthermore, due to the Green Tools Handbook 25

26 reporting emphasis and strict legislative compliance requirement, organisations are sometimes concerned about potential de-registration if they fail to report on time or are in minor breach of standards. Finally, one of the major limitations of EMAS is that it is focused on the European Union and the European Economic Area and thus the absence of worldwide recognition is perceived as an issue. ISO Currently, the most widely established and well known EMS verification standard is the International Standard Based on the methodology of plan-do-check-review, this standard provides a framework that enables an organisation to develop and implement an environmental policy that satisfies legal requirements and efficiently addresses environmental impacts. Developed to apply to all types and sizes of organisations, ISO s overall aim is to help participants achieve higher environmental standards, comply with environmental legislation, reduce costs and improve general operational efficiency. It owes its current popularity as an EMS verification standard to a number of factors. Firstly, due to its widespread adoption and international recognition, it can lead to global business opportunities as well as enhanced national and regional prospects. Secondly, with a relatively simple implementation profile, its human resource requirements are viewed as low, making it a cost effective solution. Finally, ISO has an independent accreditation process which has vastly improved its credibility and reassures organisations and interested parties alike. However, ISO is not without its critics. One of its most frequently criticised features is that it does not require an organisation to regularly measure its actual environmental performance. While a guideline exists (ISO 14031), there is no requirement for an organisation to continually improve its environmental performance to maintain accreditation. Thus, the standard is based on the assumption that an effective EMS will automatically lead to continual environmental performance improvement. Another criticism is the absence of any need to make environmental performance information available publicly. While an organisation is required to publish its environmental policy (including a mandatory obligation to adhere to all environmental legislation), there is no requirement to demonstrate how compliance is achieved. So, which one? ISO remains that most dominant standard for EMS accreditation. From a European perspective, organisations generally tend to opt for accreditation with ISO over EMAS. One of the deciding factors to consider before pursuing accreditation with either standard is why you are undertaking it, as the advantages of ISO and EMAS remain similar but distinctive in their own right. For an organisation willing to implement an EMS with maximum environmental credibility, which has the capacity to produce annual reports in line with environmental legal compliance and is focused on European recognition, the EMAS standard is arguably the best Green Tools Handbook 26

27 option. However, for those organisations more concerned with gaining compliance with a more standardised accreditation while indicating greater environmental credentials to a wider international market as opposed to a European market, then perhaps the ISO option would be better. Accreditation Systems Summary ISO EMAS Scope Worldwide EU Aims, Principles Establishing and continuously improving environmental management systems Continuous improvement in operational environmental characteristics and performance of environmental management system Eligibility Industry, services and commerce All companies Implementation Costs Emphasis Lower cost (Only reporting Environmental policy) Emphasise EMS itself and assume good EMS means good environment Higher cost on reporting system (Environmental Statement) Emphasise EMS and continuous environmental improvement Pubblication No Yes Recertification Frequency 3 Years 3 Years Environmental Benefits Focus on system rather than environment Better environmental performance Stages of Standardized EMS Environmental management systems are very much related to quality management systems. They are mechanisms that provide for a systematic and cyclical process of continual improvement. The cycle itself begins with planning for a desired outcome (i.e. improved environmental performance), implementing that plan, checking to see if the plan is working and finally correcting and improving the plan based on observations from the checking process. Logically then, if the original outcome desired remains the same, a system of this nature will, by default, generate increments of progress that continually move toward the desired outcome. In order for an company to achieve environmental performance through a management loop as mentioned above, it will need to define responsibilities for environmental management, deploy resources to ensure that action is taken on environmental issues, train staff to become aware of Green Tools Handbook 27

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