Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER LONELY PLANET

Transcription

1 Volcán Arenal Monteverde & Reserva Biológica Bosque Nuboso Monteverde La Playa Fortuna Tamarindo #_ SAN JOS Montezuma PACIFIC OCEAN Jacó úñez de Balboa heard rumors about a large sea and a wealthy, gold roducing civilization across the mountains of the isthmus almost cer ainly referring to the Inca empire of present-day Peru. Driven by equal arts ambition and greed, Balboa scaled the continental divide, and on Se tem er 26, 1513, he became the rst European to set eyes upon the Paci c Ocean. Keeping up with the European fashion of the day, Balboa mmediately proceeded to claim the ocean and all the lands it touched or the king of Spain. The thrill of discovery aside, the conquistadors now controlled a strategic western beachhead from which to launch their conquest of Costa Rica. In the name of God and king, aristocratic adventurers plundered indigenous villages, executed resisters and enslaved survivors throughout the Nicoya peninsula. However, none of these bloodstained campaigns led to a permanent presence as intercontinental germ warfare caused outbreaks of feverish death on both sides. Since the area was scarce in mineral wealth and indigenous laborers, the Spanish eventually came to regard it as the poorest and most miserable in all the Americas. It was not until the 1560s that a Spanish colony was rmly established in Costa Rica. Hoping to cultivate the rich volcanic soil of the Central Valley, the Spanish founded the village of Cartago on the banks of the Río Reventazón. Although the edgling colony was extremely isolated,» Volcán Poás (p103) Manuel Antonio CARIBBEAN SEA 29 The future capital Following a unanimous of San José is established, sparking on behalf of all of Cen- declaration by Mexico a rivalry with neighboring Cartago Rica nally gains its tral America, Costa that will eventually independence from culminate in a civil Spain after centuries war between the of colonial occupation. two dominant cities. is on the Paci c coast. It s home to a number of seaside villages where the day s agenda rarely gets more complicated than a scrupulous study of the surf report, a healthy application of sunblock and a few cold Imperial beers. With plenty of good breaks for beginners, and the country s most reliable rides (including perhaps the world s second-longest left-hand break, in Pavones p 393 ), Costa Rica has inexhaustible potential for surfers. Mal País Population: 25 million Adult literacy: % Population ng below the verty line: % Annual rbon-dioxide missions per rson: 1.85 Whether you re following the metallic shimmer of a blue butter y from palm to palm, staring into the yawning mouth of a deep purple orchid or watching wisps of fog roll in to soften the jagged edge of mountains, Costa Rica s vivid colors last a lifetime. The canopies rustle with riotous troupes of white-faced monkeys, hillsides echo with the squawks of scarlet macaws and you can reach up to the trees and pick your day s lunch: a ripe starfruit. It might seem at times like some kind of wondrous tropical fantasy land, but this is Costa Rica. dedication to environmental protection, and mind-boggling biodiversity enable Costa Rica to harbor scores of rare and endangered species. Simply put, it s one of the best wildlife-watching destinations on the globe. In fact, visitors hardly have to make an e ort; no matter where you travel in the country, the branches overhead are alive with critters galore, from lazy sloths and mischievous monkeys, to a brilliant spectrum of tropical birds. Capuchin monkeys Rainforest 11 hikes and brisk high-altitude trails, rushing white-water rapids and 10 world-class sur ng: there is a dizzying suite of outdoor adventures. They come in every shape and size from the squealinducing rush of a canopy zip line, to a sun-dazed afternoon at the beach. The country s national parks allow visitors to glimpse the seething life of the tropical rainforest, its simmering volcanoes and cloud forests o er otherworldly vistas and its reliable surf breaks are suited to beginners and experts alike. Can t decide? Don t worry, you won t have to. Given its diminutive size, it s possible to plan a relatively short trip that includes all of the above. 11 COSTA RICA UNITED STATES CANADA 2 people Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd All you ve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over. So go! TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER LONELY PLANET PAGE 2 PLAN YOUR TRIP YOUR PLANNING TOOL KIT Photos, itineraries, lists and suggestions to help you put together your perfect trip Welcome to Costa Rica.. 2 Map Top Experiences... 6 Need to Know First Time What s New If You Like Month by Month Itineraries Activity Guide Travel with Children Regions at a Glance Itineraries Whether you ve got six days or 60, these itineraries provide a starting point for the trip of a lifetime. Want more inspiration? Head online to lonelyplanet. com/thorntree to chat with other travelers. Sur ng Costa Rica s east coast may move to 10 the laid-back groove of Caribbean reggae, but the country s best year-round sur ng Welcome to Costa Rica The Tropics in Technicolor Wildlife-Watching Monkeys and crocs, toucans and 11 iguanas Costa Rica is a thrill for wildlife enthusiasts. World-class parks, long-standing Outdoor Adventures CHRISTIAN ASLUND / LONELY PLANET IMAGES CASEY MAHANEY / LONELY PLANET IMAGES e # # PAGE 475 UNDERSTAND COSTA RICA GET MORE FROM YOUR TRIP Learn about the big picture, so you can make sense of what you see Costa Rica Today History The Tico Way of Life Landscapes & Ecology Wildlife Guide New World Order ALFREDO MAIQUEZ / LONELY PLANET IMAGES 1737 for an investiga- stone spheres. Visit World Mysteries at www. world- mysteries. com/sar_12.htm tion of Costa Rica s mysterious 1821 population per sq km Costa Rica Today Weathering the Economic Storm Even despite the economic tumult that has rocked the world since 2008, Costa Rica s economy has remained remarkably stable thanks to consistently growing returns on tourism. Tourism now outpaces both agriculture and industry for the biggest slice of the economy. If you re concerned about the availability of an English menu, take note: North Americans now account for nearly half the country s 2.2 million annual tourists. Aside from tourism, the country s principal agriculture exports include pineapples, co ee, fruits and plants, while industrial exports include microchips, construction materials, fertilizer and medical equipment. Poverty levels have been kept in check for more than 20 years by strong welfare programs. Although approximately 21% of the populace lives below the poverty line up 5% since 2008 beggars are few an far between, and you won t see the street kids you see in other Latin American capitals. In fact, a good system of social services has ma e panhan ing and begging extremely rare in Costa Rica. Foreign investors continue to be attracted by the country s o itica ISBN

2 »Entering Costa Rica is mostly free of hassle, with the exception of some long queues at the airport.» The vast majority of travelers enter the country by plane, and most international ights arrive at Aeropuerto Internacional Juan Santamaría, outside San José.» Liberia is a growing destination for international ights; it in the Guanacaste province serves travelers heading Península de Nicoya.» Overland border crossings are straightforward and travelers can move freely between Panama to the south and Nicaragua to the north.» Some foreign nationals will require a visa. Be aware that you cannot get a visa at the border. For more information on visas see the Directory (p528).» Citizens of all nations are required to have a passport that is valid for at least six months beyond the dates of your trip.» When you arrive your passport will be stamped.» Though seldomly enforced, the law requires that you carry your passport at all times. t relies on carbon-based fuel gene Nica»Costa Rica is well conn ed by air to other Central an South American countries, as well as the USA.»International ights arrive at Aeropuerto Internacional Juan Santamaría (% ; 17km northwest of San José, in the town of Alajuela.»Aeropuerto Internacional Daniel Oduber Quirós in Liberia also receives international ights from the USA, the Americas and Canada. It serves a number of American and Canadian airlines and some charters from London. Flights into Liberia have increased since the 2012 opening of a new terminal.» The national airline, Lacsa (part of the Central American Airline consortium Grupo TACA), ies to the USA and Latin America, including Cuba.» The US Federal Aviation Administration has assessed Costa Rica s aviation authorities to be in complian with international safet standards. PAGE 50 ON THE ROAD YOUR COMPLETE DESTINATION GUIDE In-depth reviews, detailed listings and insider tips Península de Nicoya p209 Northwestern Costa Rica p130 Northern Lowlands p453 Central Pacific Coast p274 Central Valley & Highlands p94 San José p52 Caribbean Coast p397 Southern Costa Rica p334 Península de Osa & Golfo Dulce p358 PAGE 517 SURVIVAL GUIDE VITAL PRACTICAL INFORMATION TO HELP YOU HAVE A SMOOTH TRIP Directory A Z Transportation Language Index Map Legend Transportation GETTING THERE & AWAY Entering the Country Passport Air Airports & Airline HANGE & TRAVEL THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY Nate Cavalieri, Adam Skolnick, Wendy Yanagihara

3 Every listing is recommended by our authors, and their favourite places are listed first Look out for these icons: Our author s top recommendation A green or sustainable option No payment required SAN JOS SAN JOS AROUND SAN JOS Los Yoses & San Pedro Escazú CENTRAL VALLEY & HIGHLANDS ALAJUELA & THE NORTHERN VALLEY.. 95 Alajuela Volcán Poás Northwest to Sarchí HEREDIA AREA Barva CARTAGO AREA Volcán Irazú Valle de Orosi TURRIALBA AREA Volcán Turrialba NORTHWESTERN COSTA RICA ARENAL ROUTE Ciudad Quesada (San Carlos) La Fortuna & Around Volcán Arenal El Castillo Laguna de Arenal Area Tilarán INTERAMERICANA NORTE..157 Costa de Pájaros Juntas Monteverde & Santa Elena Reserva Biológica Bosque Nuboso Monteverde Ecolodge San Luis & Research Station Cañas Puente La Amistad Volcán Tenorio Area Volcán Miravalles Area Bagaces Palo Verde Liberia Rincón de la Vieja Area de Conservacion Guanacaste Guanacaste La Cruz Bahía Salinas PENÍNSULA DE NICOYA NORTHERN PENINSULA Playa del Coco Playa Hermosa Playa Ocotal Playa Grande Marino Las Baulas De Guanacaste Playa Tamarindo Playas Avellanas & Negra Playa Junquillal Santa Cruz CENTRAL PENINSULA Nicoya Nosara Area Refugio Nacional de Fauna Silvestre Ostional..246 Playa Sámara Playa Carrillo Islita Area Playas San Miguel & Coyote SOUTHEASTERN PENINSULA Playa Naranjo Paquera Playas Pochote & Tambor Cóbano Montezuma Cabuya Reserva Natural Absoluta Cabo Blanco Mal País & Santa Teresa CENTRAL PACIFIC COAST PUNTARENAS TO QUEPOS Puntarenas Carara Tárcoles & Around Jacó Playa Hermosa Playa Esterillos Parrita & Around

4 See the Index for a full list of destinations covered in this book. On the Road PARQUE NACIONAL MANUEL ANTONIO & AROUND Quepos Manuel Antonio Village Manuel Antonio QUEPOS TO UVITA Rafiki Safari Lodge Matapalo Hacienda Barú National Wildlife Refuge..323 Dominical Uvita Marino Ballena SOUTHERN COSTA RICA THE ROAD TO CHIRRIPÓ..335 Santa María & Valle de Dota San Gerardo de Dota Los Quetzales Cerro de La Muerte San Isidro de El General San Gerardo de Rivas PARQUE NACIONAL CHIRRIPÓ THE ROAD TO LA AMISTAD..350 Reserva Biológica Dúrika..350 Reserva Indígena Boruca..350 Palmar San Vito PARQUE INTERNACIONAL LA AMISTAD PENÍNSULA DE OSA & GOLFO DULCE TO CORCOVADO VIA PUERTO JIMNEZ Reserva Forestal Golfo Dulce Puerto Jiménez Carate TO CORCOVADO VIA BAHÍA DRAKE Sierpe Humedal Nacional Térraba-Sierpe Bahía Drake Reserva Biológica Isla del Caño PARQUE NACIONAL CORCOVADO GOLFO DULCE Golfito Piedras Blancas Playas San Josecito, Nicuesa & Cativo Zancudo Pavones PARQUE NACIONAL ISLA DEL COCOS CARIBBEAN COAST..397 THE ATLANTIC SLOPE Braulio Carrillo Guápiles & Around Cariari Siquirres Puerto Limón NORTHERN CARIBBEAN..410 Parismina Tortuguero SOUTHERN CARIBBEAN..420 Reserva Biológica Hitoy-Cerere Aviarios del Caribe Sloth Sanctuary Cahuita Puerto Viejo de Talamanca Manzanillo Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre Gandoca-Manzanillo Bribrí Sixaola NORTHERN LOWLANDS THE SARAPIQUÍ VALLEY La Virgen Puerto Viejo de Sarapiquí & Around SOUTH OF PUERTO VIEJO DE SARAPIQUÍ Estación Biológica La Selva HWY 126 TO SAN MIGUEL SAN MIGUEL TO LOS CHILES Venecia & Around Los Chiles Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre Caño Negro

5 Costa Rica 11ºN 10ºN 86ºW Santa Rosa Central America s largest tropical dry forest (p200) Nosara A slice of sophisticated jungle living (p239) Playa Sámara Mellow out and learn to surf (p247) Montezuma Triple-tiered waterfalls and fine food (p260) 85ºW Sapoá Lago de Peñas Nicaragua Blancas Santa San La Cruz Cecilia Carlos Los Chiles San José Caño Upala Negro Volcán Rincón L l a n u r a d e de la Vieja G u a t u s o s (1895m) Volcán Golfo de Santa Papagayo María (1916m) San Rafael LIBERIA de Guatuso El Coco Laguna Nuevo Arenal de Arenal Muelle Bagaces de San La Carlos Tilarán Filadelfia Fortuna Cañas Volcán Arenal Huacas Bebedero (1633m) Jabillos Santa Puerto Elena Ciudad Quesada Tamarindo Humo (San Carlos) Monteverde Santa Cruz Coralillo Puente La Zarcero Paraíso Nicoya Amistad Miramar San Ramón Nacional Santa Rosa Playa Grande Playa Tamarindo Nosara isque mp Te Río Peninsula Sámara Cordillera Río eria i L b de Nicoya de Hojancha G Bejuco u anacaste R o Ten í Playa Santa Teresa o ri o Carmona Interamericana Playa Naranjo Tambor Paquera Ferry Montezuma Mal País Cor dille r PUNTARENAS o Río Frí Río a R Golfo de Nicoya Arenal de Jacó R ío Tilarán rra ca ío Ba n an S s Carlo Esparza San Mateo árcoles Santiago de Puriscal Nacional Carara Río T Parrita 9ºN 87º06'W Mal País & Santa Teresa A paradise of surf, yoga and sushi (p268) 86ºW 87º04'W To Isla del Cocos (300km; See inset) 87º02'W Volcán Arenal Hot springs and excellent hiking (p145) 0 0 5º34'N 4 km 2 miles P A C I F I C O C E A N 5º32'N Isla del Cocos Cerro Iglesias (634m) ELEVATION 3000m 2000m 1000m 0 5º30'N 85ºW 0 50 km 0 25 miles

6 Top Experiences 83ºW CARIBBEAN Sarapiquí Valley A paddling paradise with excellent ecolodges (p456) NICARAGUA SEA 11ºN Río S n Tortuguero Glide on waterways past herons and nesting turtles (p412) ta ven San José Dig into Costa Rican culture and cuisine (p52) zón Parismina Southern Caribbean Coast A remote mix of indigenous, Tico and Afro-Carribean cultures (p420) CARTAGO Turrialba Moravia Paraíso Tapantí Rí o Quepos Nacional Chirripó Rivas Savegre San Isidro de El General Manuel Antonio Dominical Rí Rí o Teliré Shiroles Cerro Chirripó (3820m) Reserva Co rdi Tala ller Biológica ma a d Durika nc e a Ujarrás Cahuita Puerto Viejo de Talamanca Bribrí Rí o Si Amubri ola xa Nacional Los Quetzales Pandora strella Rí o E La ri Santa María de Dota Rí o San Ignacio de Acosta San Marcos de Tarrazú Valle de Parrita Pacayas 10ºN PUERTO LIMÓN Ch ir r i p ó Atlá nti co SAN JOS Siquirres Rí o Pacua re rd Co Ciudad Colón Tortuguero Nacional Tortuguero Rí o Re Rí o T Rí o To ro Rí o Ch a Barra del Juan Colorado ó Boca ip irr Tapada Llanura de San Carlos Llanura de o Tortuguero uer Pital ortug Puerto Viejo de Sarapiquí Cariari San Llanura de Miguel S a n t a C l a r a Guácimo Volcán Poás Guápiles Volcán ill Poás er (2704m) Volcán a ALAJUELA Cen tra Irazú (3432m) Lajas l HEREDIA Sixaola Guabito Changuinola Bocas del Toro Almirante o Ge ner al Cerro Chirripó Buenos Aires Icy lakes, wind-swept highs Valle del and rugged hiking (p345) General Bahía de Potrero Paso Grande Coronado 9ºN Palmar Real Norte Rí o Cotó n Ciudad PANAMA Valle de Santa Cortés Int Coto Brus Elena Fi era l a Sabalito Cos Manuel Antonio Sierpe mer teña San ica Accessible rainforest and Vito na Río Boquete Agua beautiful beaches (p317) Sereno Buena Golfo Golfito Rincón Dulce Río Neily Claro Península Puerto erry Nacional F de Osa Paso Corcovado Jiménez Playa Laguna Concepción Canoas Zancudo Corcovado Valle de Coto David Carate Colorado Uvita Golfo Dulce Kayak mangrove channels alongside dolphins (p365) Puerto Armuelles 84ºW 02-destination-map-cos10.indd 5 83ºW 13/07/ :40:50 PM

7 OUR STORY A beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end broke but inspired they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Melbourne, London and Oakland, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony s belief that a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse. OUR WRITERS Nate Cavalieri Coordinating Author, Central Pacific Coast, Southern Costa Rica, Península de Osa & Golfo Duce Nate Cavalieri traveled extensively in Latin America on a 2009 trip around the world, but quickly realized that Costa Rica required a lengthy return visit for his undivided attention. Nate lives in Oakland, California, where he writes about life s most colorful diversions: travel, music and professional cycling. His dozen titles for Lonely Planet include guides to the Caribbean, Mexico, Northern California and Colorado. For this edition he took up surfing, got really into the mythology of the Quetzal and nearly destroyed an economy-class rental car. You can check in on him via Twitter (@natecavalieri) or visit Adam Skolnick Northwestern Costa Rica, Península de Nicoya, Northern Lowlands Adam Skolnick writes about travel, culture, health, sports and the environment for Lonely Planet, Men s Health, Outside and Travel + Leisure among others. He has authored and co-authored 16 previous Lonely Planet books, and has travelled and reported throughout Central America. You can read more of his work at www. adamskolnick.com. Wendy Yanagihara San José, Central Valley & Highlands, Carribean Coast On her first trip to Costa Rica in 1996, Wendy wandered out to Zarcero to check out the loopy topiaries of the public plaza, and met Evangelisto Blanco himself (the man behind the landscaping). Fifteen years later, she was pleased to discover that both Zarcero and Señor Blanco have changed only slightly. She has covered the Nicoya Peninsula and northern zone before for Lonely Planet, but on this trip she discovered the surprising delights of San José and a taste for Caribbean rondón. When not on the road for Lonely Planet, she lives in southern California. Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN th edition October 2012 ISBN Lonely Planet 2012 Photographs as indicated Printed in China Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasonable care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

8 e # Itineraries Whether you ve got six days or 60, these itineraries provide a starting point for the trip of a lifetime. Want more inspiration? Head online to lonelyplanet. com/thorntree to chat with other travelers. 29 Volcán Arenal Monteverde & Reserva Biológica Bosque Nuboso Monteverde La Playa Fortuna Tamarindo #_ SAN JOS CARIBBEAN SEA Montezuma Jacó # Manuel Antonio PACIFIC OCEAN Two Weeks Essential Costa Rica This is the trip you ve been dreaming about: a romp through paradise with seething volcanoes, tropical parks and ghostly cloud forests. From San José, beeline north to La Fortuna. After hiking the forest on the flanks of Volcán Arenal, soak in the area s hot springs. Then catch a boat across Laguna de Arenal, and a bus to Monteverde, where you might just encounter the elusive quetzal on a stroll through the Reserva Biológica Bosque Nuboso Monteverde. It s time for the beach: head west to the biggest party town in Nicoya, Playa Tamarindo, and enjoy the ideal surf and rowdy nightlife. Continuing south, go through Montezuma where you can connect via jet boat to Jacó, another town with equal affection for surfing and partying. Spend half a day on the bus down to Quepos, the gateway to Manuel Antonio. A full day in the park starts with some jungle hikes and wildlife-watching and ends with a picnic and a dip in the park s perfect waters.

9 e # 30 PLAN YOUR TRIP ITINERARIES Playa Tamarindo & Reserva Playa Grande Biológica Volcán Arenal Bosque Playa Sámara Nuboso Monteverde Mal País & Playa Santa Teresa Montezuma PACIFIC OCEAN La Virgen & Río Sarapiquí #_ SAN JOS CARIBBEAN SEA Two Weeks Northern Costa Rica A deep exploration of the north presents travelers with all of Costa Rica s banner attractions and some of its off-the-beaten-path destinations in a tidy, low-mileage package. After landing in San José, make for the hanging bridges and breathtaking scenery of the Reserva Biológica Bosque Nuboso Monteverde, one of Costa Rica s most unique and iconic destinations. Just watching the mists roll over the dense forests is entertaining, but the add-ons here sweeten the deal: there are dizzying zip lines and areal walkways, excellent hikes and one of the country s best butterfly gardens. After a few days in the cloud forest you ll be ready for Arenal, the country s biggest active volcano. Though just a quick bus ride away, the glowering mountain seems like a different world. Although it seems to be in heading into a period of dormancy, Arenal remains an incredible sight. Another few hikes and you ll be ready for the area s hot springs. Now, leave the tourists behind and head into the northern lowlands, an agricultural zone where real-life Costa Rica awaits. Community tourism initiatives have sprung up in this historically farm-based economy, with inviting ecolodges and family stays. After a couple days of connecting with easygoing Ticos, make for La Virgen to raft the county s wildest waters on the Río Sarapiquí. With the remaining week, it s time to hit the beach. Catch a bus for Playa Tamarindo, to party with other travelers, sample some of the country s finest international cuisine and take a few surfing lessons. If you re here during turtle season, Playa Grande will host a horde of nesting leatherbacks; if you re not, the human action on the beach is an equally illuminating mating ritual. You can either stay put or string together a series of southbound buses to visit one heavenly beach after the next: there s stunning sand and contemporary cuisine at Playa Sámara or legendary swells at Mal País and Playa Santa Teresa. Any of them would be excellent places to swim in warm Pacific waters and chill out on the beach. Wind down your trip with a bit of yoga at Montezuma and head back to San José via Jacó by jet boat and bus.

10 31 LOOK DIE BILDAGENTUR DER FOTOGRAFEN GMBH / ALAMY PAUL TOPP / DREAMSTIME» (above) Hiking in the Reserva Biológica Bosque Nuboso Monteverde (p177)» (left) Volcán Arenal (p145) PLAN YOUR TRIP ITINERARIES

11 32 PLAN YOUR TRIP ITINERARIES SAN JOS #_ Carara # Quepos & Jacó Nacional Manuel Chirripó Antonio San Gerardo de Rivas & Cloudbridge Nature Preserve # Hacienda Barú National Wildlife # Urita & Marino Ballena Refuge PACIFIC OCEAN Dominical Pacific Coast Southern Costa Rica Corcovado # Puerto Península Jiménez de Osa CARIBBEAN SEA Two Weeks Pacific Coast Explorer Kick things off in the resort town of Jacó, a scrappy, if cosmopolitan enclave of fine dining and raging nightlife. In case you need a reminder that you re still in Costa Rica, backtrack north up the coast to Carara, home to large populations of enchanting scarlet macaws. Heading south along the coast, drop in on Quepos, a convenient base for the country s most popular national park, Manuel Antonio. Here, the rainforest sweeps down to meet the sea, providing refuge for rare animals, including the endangered Central American squirrel monkey. Continue on south stopping to sample the roadside ceviche stands and visit Hacienda Barú National Wildlife Refuge to look for sloth, or keep heading south to Dominical for more waves. For deserted beach wandering keep on to Uvita, where you can look for whales off Marino Ballena. From Uvita, you can either continue south to the far-flung Península de Osa, or head to San José. Two to Three Weeks Southern Costa Rica & Osa Hand s down the best itinerary for adventurers. Either head down the Pacific coast or fly into Puerto Jiménez, which serves as the gateway to Osa. Here, you can spend a day or so kayaking the mangroves and soaking up the charm of this tiny town. The undisputed highlight of Osa is Nacional Corcovado, one of the country s best wildlife-watching spots. Spend a few days exploring the trails with backpack in hand; particularly well-equipped travelers can trek across the entire park. Return to Puerto Jiménez and link up with the Uvita, where you wander empty beaches and surf a bit in the Marino Ballena. Then, it s off to the mountains. Link together buses for San Gerardo de Rivas, where you can spend a day getting used to the altitude and hiking through the Cloudbridge Nature Preserve. End the trip with an exhilarating two-day adventure to the top of Chirripó.

12 33 PACIFIC OCEAN CARIBBEAN SEA Tortuguero & Nacional Tortuguero Volcán Cariari Poás Guápiles Monumento Nacional Arqueológico Guayabo SAN JOS #_ Cartago Orosi Nacional Refugio Nacional Río Valley Cahuita # de Vida Silvestre Pacuare # Puerto Gandoca- Viejo de Manzanillo Talamanca # PLAN YOUR TRIP ITINERARIES Central Valley Caribbean Coast One to Two Weeks Carribean Coast One Week Central Valley Spanish gives way to English, and Latin beats change to Caribbean rhythms as you explore the other Costa Rica. Hop on the first eastbound bus out of San José for Cahuita, capital of Afro-Caribbean culture and gateway to Cahuita. Get your fill of this mellow little village before moving on to Puerto Viejo de Talamanca, the Caribbean s center for nightlife, cuisine and all-round positive vibes. From Puerto Viejo, rent yourself a good old-fashioned bicycle and ride to Manzanillo, from where you can snorkel, kayak and hike in the Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre Gandoca-Manzanillo. For the adventurous at heart, grab a boat from Moín to travel the canal-lined coast to Tortuguero, where you can watch nesting green and leatherback turtles. Of course, the real reason you re here is to arrange a canoe trip through the mangrove-lined canals of Tortuguero, Costa Rica s mini-amazon. After spotting your fill of wildlife, head back to San José via water taxi and bus through Cariari and Guápiles. The central valley circuit is about sleeping volcanoes, strong cups of coffee and the spiritual core of the country. Since most tourists head toward Costa Rica s distant beaches, you ll enjoy mountain markets and colonial squares without the huge crowds. Begin the scenic circuit of the region s gaping volcanoes by hiking the volcanic lakes and trails surrounding Poás, one of Costa Rica s most accessible glimpses into an active volcano. Move on to the Monumento Nacional Arqueológico Guayabo, the country s only significant archeological site, where visitors marvel at petroglyphs and a system of aqueducts. With the geological and archeological wonders complete, rush the white water of the Río Pacuare, one of the country s best white-water runs, and some of the most scenic rafting in Central America. Finally, swing south into the heart of the Orosi Valley, Costa Rican coffee country, and take the caffeinated 60km loop passing the country s oldest church and endless green hills. End this short circuit on a spiritual note at the country s grandest colonial temple, the Basílica de Nuestra Senora de Los Ángeles in Cartago.

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