CLOTHING & TEXTILES II (353)

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1 DESCRIPTION The second assessment in a series, Clothing and Textiles II introduces students to intermediate techniques associated with sewing, serging, and pressing equipment and reviews the types of fabric construction. Total Test Questions: 76 Levels: Grades 9-12 Units of Credit:.50 Prerequisites: Clothing and Textiles I (350) STANDARDS, OBJECTIVES, AND INDICATORS STANDARD 1 16% of Exam Blueprint USE INTERMEDIATE SEWING, SERGING, AND PRESSING TECHNIQUES. Objective 3: Identify sewing machine parts and their functions (adjust stitch length with various fabric thickness/purpose). 1. Explain the use of specialty feet (zipper, buttonhole, blind hem, and additional feet). 2. Review owner s manual for care and specific maintenance of the machine. Identify the parts of the serger and their functions. 1. Identify the needle stitch plate, feed dogs/system, presser foot, thread tensions, presser foot lever/lifter, handwheel, stitch length control, knives and loopers. 2. Operate and care for serger according to machine manual (clean, oil). Practice advanced pressing techniques. 1. Incorporate the practice of press as you sew. 2. Use correct pressing equipment (tailor s ham, sleeve board, seam roll, point presser, pressing cloth). 3. Identify and use appropriate temperature settings for various fabrics with different fiber content. STANDARD 2 22% of Exam Blueprint DISTINGUISH THE DIFFERENT TYPES OF FABRIC AND FIBER CHARACTERISTICS. Identify and review basic fibers: natural- cotton, linen, silk, wool; syntheticnylon, polyester, acrylic, rayon, spandex, and acetate Page 1 of 3

2 STANDARD 3 Identify various types of fabric construction. 1. Identify woven fabrics. 2. Identify basic weaves (lengthwise and crosswise yarns). (plain, basket, twill, satin) 3. Identify knit (interlocking loops) fabric. 4. Identify non-woven fabrics (felt). 32% of Exam Blueprint REVIEW AND DEMONSTRATE PRE-CONSTRUCTION TECHNIQUES AT THE INTERMEDIATE LEVEL. Objective 3: Objective 4: Identify necessary pattern information and alterations. 1. Determine pattern size based on body measurements and finished garment measurements (wearing ease). 2. Use pattern envelope to determine correct type and amount of fabric. 3. Make pattern alterations (demonstrate length and width adjustments). 4. Select appropriate fabric, yardage, and notions for the project. 5. Demonstrate correct pattern layout techniques including one-way directional, napped, straight of grain, or plaid fabrics as stated on guidesheet. Apply appropriate fabric and pattern preparation techniques. 1. Pre-shrink fabric as appropriate. 2. Review pattern symbols (pleat, dart). 3. Review pattern placement and layout. 4. Discuss one-way directional/nap layout. 5. Review fabric terms. Practice correct cutting techniques. Demonstrate correct marking techniques. STANDARD 4 USE CORRECT CONSTRUCTION TECHNIQUES AT THE INTERMEDIATE LEVEL. Practice intermediate stitching techniques. 30% of Exam Blueprint 1. Select appropriate thread and needle for project. 2. Identify and demonstrate stitching techniques (dart, ease stitching, gathering, pleat, tuck, under-stitching, stitch in the ditch, stay stitching) and their applications) Page 2 of 3

3 Objective 3: Objective 4: Objective 5: Objective 6: Objective 7: Objective 8: Objective 9: Objective 10: Objective 11: Use appropriate techniques for enclosed seams (clipping, notching, layering/grading, trimming). Practice correct application techniques for applying interfacing and attaching facings or collars. 1. Select and apply appropriate interfacing (fusible, non-fusible). 2. Demonstrate techniques associated with attaching facings or collars. Identify each of the following and construct one or more: darts, pleats, and gathers. Identify each of the following sleeves and construct one or more: kimono, raglan, set in (closed seam, open/flat). Identify each of the following zipper applications and construct one or more: centered, lapped, fly, exposed/sport, invisible Attach one or more appropriate closure: hook and eye, snaps, and pant/skirt hook. Identify correct application techniques for a trim or other decorative technique: trims, ruffles, lace, piping, decorative stitching, gripper snaps, machine embroidery, appliqué Identify types and complete correct application of hems. 1. Identify steps of hem preparation (appropriate length and width, reduce bulk, ease, pressing). 2. Complete one or more of the following hemming techniques: hand stitched hems, double fold hem, machine blind hem, rolled hem. 3. Apply correct edge finishes: clean finished, zigzag, serged, stitched and pinked. Construct buttonhole and attach button. 1. Determine correct size of buttonhole (length of button hole = depth of button + button diameter). Note: This is a correct mathematical equation. 2. Mark placement and construct a buttonhole. 3. Mark placement and attach a button using a thread shank. Demonstrate the ability to follow directions/guidesheet throughout the project construction Page 3 of 3

4 PERFORMANCE STANDARD EVALUATION CHECKLIST Student Name Instructor s Name School District Performance Rating Scale: Limited Skills..... Moderate Skills..High Skills Performance assessments may be completed and evaluated at any time during the course. The following performance skills are to be used in connection with the associated written exam. To pass the performance standard the student must attain a performance standard average of 8 or higher on the rating scale. Students may be encouraged to repeat the objectives until they average 8 or higher for the following elements: PERFORMANCE SKILLS STANDARDS STANDARD 1 - Using the owner s manual, perform basic sewing machine maintenance. STANDARD 2 - Operate and care for the Serger. STANDARD 3 - Utilize correct pressing techniques throughout the project construction. STANDARD 4 - Select appropriate fabric, yardage, and notions for the project P a g e 1

5 PERFORMANCE SKILLS STANDARDS STANDARD 5 - Make fitting adjustments. Demonstrate length and width adjustments STANDARD 6 - Demonstrate correct pattern layout techniques. Include the following: Napped Plaid fabrics One-way directional STANDARD 7 - Select and apply appropriate interfacing. STANDARD 8 - Apply facings or collars using stay-stitching, trimming, grading, clipping or notching, and under-stitching. Use the following: Trimming Grading Stay-stitching Under-stitching Clipping or notching STANDARD 9 - Mark and construct one or more of the following: Darts Tucks Pleats Gathers STANDARD 10 - Mark and sew in one or more correct sleeve applications. STANDARD 11 - Demonstrate one or more correct zipper applications. STANDARD 12 - Attach one or more appropriate closure: Hook and eye Snaps Pant/skirt hook P a g e 2

6 PERFORMANCE SKILLS STANDARDS STANDARD 13 - Demonstrate one or more of the following decorative techniques: Applying/inserting trims Decorative stitching Ruffles Gripper snaps Lace Machine embroidery Piping appliqués STANDARD 14 - Complete two of the following hemming techniques, other hemming technique: Hand stitched hems Machine blind hem Double fold hem Rolled hem STANDARD 15 - Construct button and buttonhole closures. STANDARD 16 - Use commercially prepared directions/guide sheets. PERFORMANCE STANDARD AVERAGE Average: P a g e 3

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