Design Activity 4 3: Designing Clothing. Skirts, Dress and Pants (pp. 234~238) Sleeves, Collars/Neckline (pp. 246~248, pp. 250~251) Your own design

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1 Design Activity 4: Designing Clothing Design Activity 4 1: Skirts, Dress and Pants (pp. 234~238) Design Activity 4 2: Sleeves, Collars/Neckline (pp. 246~248, pp. 250~251) Design Activity 4 3: Your own design

2 Skirts The four basic skirt shapes Variations in straight skirts Kinds of pleated skirts

3 The four basic skirt shapes Straight skirts Flared skirts Wider at the hem, flaring from a slim waist) Pegged skirts Tapered at the hem Circular (very flared)

4 Straight skirts The side seams of a straight skirt are aligned with the straight grain of the fabric The cross grain runs across the hips from side seam to side seam. Drops is removed with darts or gathers. Drops (= Difference between the size of the hip and the waist)

5 Variations of the Straight Skirts Gored sheath Gathered skirt

6 Variations of the Straight Skirts Pleated skirt Knife pleat Box pleat Accordion pleat Engineered pleat

7 Variations of the Straight Skirts Sheath (basic) With 4 darts Drindl Can have a minimum amount of ease with a slim silhouette or drop is eased into the waistband.

8 Flared (Gored) Skirt Flared skirts Wider at the hem Gored skirts Trumpet Gore

9 Variations of the Flared Skirts Flared skirts Wider at the hem Gored skirts Trumpet Gore

10 Pegged (Draped) Skirt Pegged skirts Wide hips Tapered at the hem Slender look, if tapered slightly.

11 Variations of the Pegged Skirts Pegged skirts Wide hips Tapered at the hem Slender look, if tapered slightly. Sarong Popular in late 1940s. Harem skirt (= Pouf)

12 Circular Skirt Circular skirts Very wide fabric is required. Dramatic effect

13 Variations of the Circular Skirts Circular skirts Very wide fabric is required. Dramatic effect

14 Bodices Bodices is the part of the garment that covers the body from the waist up. 2 Front darts 2 Back darts A fisheye dart (= double ended dart)

15 Darts Darts: The darts in a bodice make flat fabric fit the 3 D dress form and the human body. Multiple Darted bodice Either darts or tucks

16 The basic bodice pattern can be manipulated to form many bodice variations.

17 Gathered and Yoked bodices Gathered (Eased) bodices Yoked bodices (Horizontal bodice)

18 Gored bodices Gored bodices (Vertical divisions)

19 Design Activity 4: Designing Clothing Design Activity 4 1: Skirts, Dress and Pants (pp. 234~238) Design Activity 4 2: Sleeves, Collars/Neckline (pp. 246~248, pp. 250~251) Design Activity 4 3: Your own design

20 Sleeves Sleeves are the primary component of the bodice. Categories of sleeves Set In Sleeves Sleeves that are cut in one piece with the bodice or that incorporate part of the bodice into the sleeve. Set-In sleeve Sleeve cut in one piece

21 Sleeves Set In Sleeve Front Balance point (1 notch) Shoulder seam Cap Back Balance point (2 notches) Underarm seam Elbow dart Wrist

22 Set In Sleeves Raised armhole Lowered armhole seam Dropped under armscye seam.

23 Set In Sleeves Bishop sleeve Puff sleeve variations Ease added to any area of the sleeve to achieve different effects. Bishop sleeve Puff sleeves

24 Set In Sleeves Padded Sleeves Dramatically change the silhouette of the garment by lifting the shoulder and sleeve area Set In sleeve padded with a wedge shaped pad. Dolman padded with a rounded pad.

25 Sleeves Incorporating Part of the Bodice Raglan Sleeve Separate from the bodice and has an underarm seam

26 Sleeves Incorporating Part of the Bodice Kimono and Dolman Sleeves Cut in one piece with the bodice, or they incorporate part of the bodice into the sleeve.

27 Sleeve lengths Cap sleeve Short sleeve Elbow wrist sleeve ¾ sleeve

28 Design Activity 4: Designing Clothing Design Activity 4 1: Skirts, Dress and Pants (pp. 234~238) Design Activity 4 2: Sleeves, Collars/Neckline (pp. 246~248, pp. 250~251) Design Activity 4 3: Your own design

29 Classic Top Styling Cossack, Shirt dress, Top tank, Surplice Peasant, Halter, Bolero, Bare Midriff

30 Traditional Dress Construction Horizontal divisions Low hipline Natural waist Empire line Shoulder yoke

31 Traditional Dress Construction No horizontal divisions Princess line dress The shift (loose fit) Tent (= A line dress)

32 Sportswear Active sportswear Worn for playing physical sports. Function is important. Less influenced by fashion. Spectator sportswear Separates worn for informal occasions that are not sports specific. A casual life style. Examples: the denim jeans, cotton shirts of cowboy.

33 History of Pants and Sportswear Bloomers in the 1850s Bicycling pants In 1909 Paul Poiret introduced harem pants, separate skirts and blouses. World War I Coco Chanel, Yachting pants in World War II During the 1960s Denim jeans and pants were popular.

34 Various Pants Length

35 Merchandising Sportswear Items Garments sold as separate units. Separates Garments are unusual enough in design to be purchased single. Generally fit into a group of styles that can be worn together and are made of complementary fabrics. Coordinates A closely developed group of garments, carefully linked by color or detailing.

36 Sportswear Categories Junior sportswear More item oriented. Less expensive, experiment design. Missy sportswear Tends to be conservative Contemporary sportswear (=Bridge) Less expensive than designer. More innovated than moderate sportswear. Examples: Dana Buchman, Ellen Tracy Designer Expensive Examples: Donna Karan, Calvin Klein, Ralph Lauren.

37 Swimwear Swimwear is produced for 2 seasons a year. The preview line: Early spring The primary season: Spring/Summer (Cruise) Market research Analyzing figure types Working with swimsuit bodies that flatter the figure.

38 Design Activity 4: Designing Clothing Design Activity 4 1: Skirts, Dress and Pants Design Activity 4 2: Sleeves, Collars/Neckline Design Activity 4 3: Your own design

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