HOW TO MEASURE: WOVEN BOTTOMS

Transcription

1 L A U N M A S E R U D E C P O R R O T L Y A A N N SECTION VI-H HOW TO MEASURE: WOVEN BOTTOMS PANTS AND SKIRTS (INCLUDING JEANS) STANDARDS AND PROCEDURES

2 A TABLE OF CONTENTS TABLE OF CONTENTS...2 CRITICAL POINTS OF MEASUREMENT FOR WOVEN BOTTOMS: Waist Circumference - Straight Waistbands Waist Circumference - Contour Waist Circumference - Stretched Waist Circumference - Relaxed Waist Circumference Wrap Skirt High Hip Circumference - Pleated Front High Hip Circumference - Non Pleated Front High Hip Circumference Wrap Skirt Low Hip Circumference - Pleated Front Low Hip Circumference - Non Pleated Front Low Hip Circumference Wrap Skirt Seat Circumference Non Pleated Seat Circumference Pleated Seat Circumference Wrap Skirt Front Rise Top Edge Back Rise Top Edge Inseam Thigh Circumference - All pant lengths including shorts Leg Opening Circumference - Applies to all grade rules Sweep Circumference Skirt Non Pleated Sweep Circumference Partially Pleated Skirts Sweep Circumference Wrap Skirt Skirt Length - Front Positioning a Bias Garment NON-CRITICAL POINTS OF MEASUREMENTS FOR THE WOVEN BOTTOMS: Waistband Height: Facing Height Casing Height for drawstring Yoke Center Front Yoke Center Back Yoke Side / Out-seam Front Waist Dip Top Edge Placement from the Natural Waist High Hip Placement Low Hip Placement Seat Placement Cuff Height - Leg Slit Opening Vent Opening Vent Width Knee Placement Knee Circumference Out-seam for garments without separate waistband Out-seam for garments with a separate waistband Out Seam from Natural Waist Skirt Length on Body Binding Width Section VI-H 2

3 A 2450 Hem Height Blind Stitch Hem Height Topstitched Trim Height Set In Belt Loop Length Belt Loop Opening Belt Loop Width Belt Loop Placement Front or Back Belt Loop Placement Centered Over Dart Belt Length Tie / Sash / Drawstring Belt Spec Length - with Prong Buckle Belt Length - with Prong Buckle Belt Width Shoe String Length Knot Shoe String Length Sealed Ends Bow Head Bow Tails Bow Knot Pocket Placement - Patch Pocket Placement - Besom Pocket Placement - Welt Pocket Placement Waist Pocket Placement Side Seam Pocket Placement Yoke Center Pocket Placement Yoke Side (Out-seam) Pocket Placement Coin from waist Pocket Placement Coin from sides Pocket Height Patch Pocket Height Besom Pocket Height Welt Pocket Height - Quarter Pocket Height Coin Pocket Opening - Patch Pocket Opening Quarter Pocket Opening On Seam Pocket Opening Besom and Welt Pocket opening Coin Pocket Flap Center Pocket Flap Side Pocket Width -Patch Pocket Flap Width Top Pocket Flap Width Bottom Pocket Flap Widest Point Fly Width Garment Opening Fly Opening Zipper Length Regular Zipper Length Invisible Dart Placement Front Dart Placement Back Dart Depth Dart Length Dart Point Spread Section VI-H 3

4 A CRITICAL POINTS OF MEASUREMENT FOR WOVEN BOTTOMS: PANTS and SKIRTS (Including Jeans) Critical measuring points in this How to Measure Manual are written in the view of the person measuring. Measurer should make sure that the measuring tape markings (increments) are on the line of measurement. Measurer will round down when measurement is between tape markings (increments). Measurer should always measure and record the wearer s right side of the garment. Measurer should measure and compare the wearer s left side of the garment to the Wearer s right side of the garment. Measurer should only record the wearer s left side of the garment when it is out of tolerance. This is to be recorded as a Visual / Construction Defect during Inspection. The sketches used to illustrate these measuring methods are inter-changeable between the following product categories: pants and skirts. The Garment Set Up Positions is also inter-changeable due to product categories, physical and environmental conditions. However there are mandatory set-ups for the measuring of the wearer s right side of the garment and will be noted in the write up. The numbering in this manual will coincide with the numbering of the Garment Specification Packages. The 4 digit numbers indicate the measurer should reference this manual, while 3 digit numbers indicate the measurer should reference the original manual dated Section VI-H 4

5 2200 Waist Circumference - Straight Waistbands Garment Set Up: Position front of garment face up on the table with the balance of the garment folded once over with a small amount hanging off the edge of the table. The waistband should be positioned on the table in easy reach of the measurer. Align front and back top waistband edges gently smoothing away any wrinkles. Measuring Method: Place the measuring tape on the left side centered at the edge of the waistband against the folded edge of the waistband. Grasp the measuring tape with the right hand and move the tape along the center of the waistband. Note: Measurer gently straightens out the curve of the waistband without stretching the garment. Go half the distance to the center of the waistband or to the top of the button. Reposition the left hand to the right hand position. Grasp the measuring tape with the right hand and move the tape along the center of the waistband. Stop at the center right side edge of the waistband. Read the measurement off the tape. Double the measurement. Record the measurement. Section VI-H 5

6 2205 Waist Circumference - Contour Garment Set Up: Position wearer s right side seam on top of left side seam creating center front and center back folds. Center front fold is to the right side of the measurer. Align waist edges. The waistband should be positioned on the table in easy reach of the measurer with the balance of the garment folded once over with a small amount hanging off the edge of the table. Allow waistband to lay flat in its natural curved shape. FRONT Measuring Method: Place the measuring tape on the left side at the top edge of waist (center front folded edge). Hold in position with left hand. Move tape along following the curved shape at top edge of the waist. Stop at the side seam of the garment. Note: Do not straighten out the waist shape. Note: If styling details includes a waistband, measuring both the top edge and the bottom waist seam is required. Reposition the left hand to the right hand position. Grasp the measuring tape in the right hand. Move tape along the curved shape at the top edge of waist. Stop at the top edge of the waist on the right hand side of the garment (center back fold). FRONT FRONT Read the measurement off the tape. Double the measurement. Record the measurement. FRONT Section VI-H 6

7 2210 Waist Circumference Stretched. Garment Set Up: Position front of garment face up on the table with the balance of the garment folded once over with a small amount hanging off the edge of the table. Measuring Method: Align the beginning of the measuring tape with the left side edge at center of waistband. Simultaneously grasp the measuring tape and the left side edge at center of waistband securely with the left hand. Take the right hand and extend the waistband to its fullest position without breaking stitches while allowing the tape to slide along in the right hand. Read the measurement off the tape in the fully extended position. Double the measurement. Record the measurement. Section VI-H 7

8 2215 Waist Circumference - Relaxed Garment Set Up: Position front of garment face up on the table with the balance of the garment folded once over with a small amount hanging off the edge of the table. Align front and back top waistband edges without stretching the elastic. Measuring Method: Place the measuring tape on the left side centered at the edge of the waistband against the folded edge of the waistband. Move tape along the center of the waistband, Note: Measurer gently straightens out the curve of the waistband without stretching the garment. Stop at the center of the garment. Reposition the left hand to the right hand position. Move tape along the center of the waistband. Stop at the center right side edge of the waistband. Read the measurement off the tape. Double the measurement. Record the measurement. Section VI-H 8

9 2220 Waist Circumference Wrap Skirt Garment Set Up: Position the garment face up on the table. Waistline is to the left side of the measurer. Center front line of the garment is parallel to the edge of the table. Garment should be in easy reach of the measurer. Mark overlaps at waist hips and sweep based on specification sheet requirements. Pin garment to the overlap marks. Remove wrinkles without stretching the garment. Measuring Method: Place the measuring tape on the left side centered at the edge of the waistband against the folded edge of the waistband. Grasp the measuring tape with the right hand and move the tape along the center of the waistband. Note: Measurer gently straightens out the curve of the waistband without stretching the garment. Go half the distance to the center of the waistband or to top of the button. Reposition the left hand to the right hand position. Grasp the measuring tape with the right hand, move tape along the center of the waistband. Stop at the center right side edge of the waistband. Read the measurement off the tape. Double the measurement. Record the measurement. Section VI-H 9

10 2225 High Hip Circumference - Pleated Front Garment Set Up: Position the front of garment face up on the table zippered or fastened closed. The balance of the garment should be folded once over with a small amount hanging off the edge of the table. High and low hip should be positioned on the table in easy reach of the measurer. Note: For straight waistbands align top edge of waistband front to back. For curved waistbands allow waistband to lay flat naturally. Using the three-point method, mark the points of measurement based on the specification sheet directions. Starting from top waistband edge follow the hip curve shape for left and right side edges and from top edge of waistband at center of garment. Note: For curved waistbands to mark the center hip position use the top edge of the front waistband. Mark position of all three points of measurement. Note: Measuring points form a slight v shape. It is not a straight-line measurement from side edge to side edge. Position garment with pleats closed making sure to remove all wrinkles without stretching the garment. Measuring Method: Place the measuring tape on the left side at the marked point. Grasp the measuring tape with the right hand, Move tape along to the center of the garment at marked point. Note: Eliminate any wrinkles with the fingertips of the right hand without spreading the pleats or stretching the garment. Reposition the left hand to the right hand position. Hold in place with the left hand. Move tape along to the right side edge at marked point. Read the measurement off the tape. Double the measurement. Record the measurement. Section VI-H 10

11 2230 High Hip Circumference - Non Pleated Front Garment Set Up: Position the front of garment face up on the table zippered or fastened closed. The balance of the garment should be folded once over with a small amount hanging off the edge of the table. High and low hip should be positioned on the table in easy reach of the measurer. Note: For straight waistbands - align top edge of waistband front to back. For curved waistbands allow waistband to lay flat naturally. Using the three-point method, mark the points of measurement based on the specification sheet directions. Starting from top waistband edge follow the hip curve shape for left and right side edges and from top edge of waistband at center of garment. Note: For curved waistbands to mark the center hip position use the top edge of the front waistband. Mark position of all three points of measurement. Note: Measuring points form a slight v shape. It is not a straight-line measurement from side edge to side edge. Position garment on table making sure to remove all wrinkles within the high hip area without stretching the garment. Measuring Method: Place the measuring tape on the left side at the marked point. Move tape along to the center of the garment at marked point. Note: Eliminate any wrinkles with the fingertips of the right-hand, without stretching the garment. Reposition the left hand to the right hand position. Hold in place with the left hand. Move tape along to the right side edge at marked point. Read the measurement off the tape. Double the measurement. Record the measurement. Section VI-H 11

12 2235 High Hip Circumference Wrap Skirt Garment Set Up: Position the garment face up on the table. Waistline is to the left side of the measurer. Center front line of the garment is parallel to the edge of the table. Garment should be in easy reach of the measurer. Mark overlaps at waist, hips and sweep based on specification sheet requirements. Pin garment to the overlap marks. Remove wrinkles without stretching the garment. Using the three-point method, mark the points of measurement based on the specification sheet directions. Starting from top waistband edge follow the hip curve shape for left and right side edges and from top edge of waistband at center of garment Note: Measuring points form a slight v shape. It is not a straight-line measurement from side edge to side edge. Measuring Method: Place the measuring tape at the marked point closest to the measurer. Move tape along to the center of the garment at marked point. Note: Eliminate any wrinkles with the fingertips of the right hand without stretching the garment. Reposition the left hand to the right hand position. Hold in place with the left hand. Move tape along to the opposite side edge at marked point. Read the measurement off the tape. Double the measurement. Record the measurement Section VI-H 12

13 2240 Low Hip Circumference - Pleated Front Garment Set Up: Position front of garment face up on the table, zippered and fastened closed, with the balance of the garment folded once over with a small amount hanging off the edge of the table. High and low hip should be positioned on the table in easy reach of the measurer. Note: For straight waistbands align top edge of waistband front to back. For curved waistbands allow waistband to lay flat naturally. Using the three-point method, mark the points of measurement based on the specification sheet directions. Starting from top waistband edge follow the hip curve shape for left and right side edges and from top edge of waistband at center of garment. Note: For curved waistbands to mark the center hip position use the top edge of the front waistband. Mark position of all three points of measurement. NOTE: Measuring points form a slight v shape. It is not a straight-line measurement from side edge to side edge. Position garment, fully extending pleats, removing wrinkles, making sure not to stretch the garment. Measuring Method: Keep garment in the fully extended position. Hold low hip area flat. Place the measuring tape on the left side edge at the marked point. Move tape along to the center of the garment at the marked point. Note: Eliminate any wrinkles using the right hand fingertips without stretching the garment. Reposition the left hand to the right hand position. Hold in place with the left hand. Move tape along to the right side edge at marked point. Read the measurement off the tape. Double the measurement. Record the measurement. Section VI-H 13

14 2245 Low Hip Circumference - Non Pleated Front Garment Set Up: Position the front of garment face up on the table zippered or fastened closed. The balance of the garment should be folded once over with a small amount hanging off the edge of the table. High and low hip should be positioned on the table in easy reach of the measurer. Note: For straight waistbands align top edge of waistband front to back. For curved waistbands allow waistband to lay flat naturally. Using the three-point method, mark the points of measurement based on the specification sheet directions. Starting from top waistband edge follow the hip curve shape for left and right side edges and from top edge of waistband at center of garment. Note: For curved waistbands to mark the center hip position use the top edge of the front waistband. Mark position of all three points of measurement. Note: Measuring points form a slight v shape. It is not a straight-line measurement from side edge to side edge. Position garment on table making sure to remove all wrinkles within the low hip area without stretching the garment. Measuring Method: Place the measuring tape on the left side at the marked point. Move tape along to the center of the garment at marked point. Note: Eliminate any wrinkles with the fingertips of the right hand without stretching the garment. Reposition the left hand to the right hand position. Hold in place with the left hand. Move tape along to the right side edge at marked point. Read the measurement off the tape. Double the measurement. Record the measurement. Section VI-H 14

15 2250 Low Hip Circumference Wrap Skirt Garment Set Up: Position the garment face up on the table. Waistline is to the left side of the measurer. Center front line of the garment is parallel to the edge of the table. Garment should be in easy reach of the measurer. Mark overlaps at waist, hips and sweep based on specification sheet requirements. Pin garment to the overlap marks. Remove wrinkles without stretching the garment. Using the three-point method, mark the points of measurement based on the specification sheet directions. Starting from top waistband edge follow the hip curve shape for left and right side edges and from top edge of waistband at center of garment Note: Measuring points form a slight v shape. It is not a straight-line measurement from side edge to side edge. Measuring Method: Place the measuring tape on the left side at the marked point. Move tape along to the center of the garment at marked point. Note: Eliminate any wrinkles with the fingertips of the right hand without stretching the garment. Reposition the left hand to the right hand position. Hold in place with the left hand. Move tape along to the right side edge at marked point. Read the measurement off the tape. Double the measurement. Record the measurement. Section VI-H 15

16 2255 Seat Circumference Non Pleated Garment Set Up: Position the front of garment face up on the table zippered or fastened closed. The balance of the garment should be folded once over with a small amount hanging off the edge of the table. Seat should be positioned on the table in easy reach of the measurer. Note: For straight waistbands align top edge of waistband front to back. For curved waistbands allow waistband to lay flat naturally. Using the three-point method, mark the points of measurement based on the specification sheet directions. Starting from top waistband edge, follow the hip curve shape for left and right side edges and from top edge of waistband at center of garment. Note: For curved waistbands to mark the center hip position use the top edge of the front waistband. Mark position of all three points of measurement. Note: Measuring points form a slight v shape. It is not a straight-line measurement from side edge to side edge. Position garment on table making sure to remove all wrinkles within the seat area without stretching the garment. Measuring Method: Place the measuring tape on the left side at the marked point. Move tape along to the center of the garment at marked point. Note: Eliminate any wrinkles with the fingertips of the right hand without stretching the garment. Reposition the left hand to the right hand position. Hold in place with the left hand. Move tape along to the right side edge at marked point. Read the measurement off the tape. Double the measurement. Record the measurement. Section VI-H 16

17 2260 Seat Circumference Pleated Garment Set Up: Position the front of garment face up on the table zippered or fastened closed. The balance of the garment should be folded once over with a small amount hanging off the edge of the table. Seat should be positioned on the table in easy reach of the measurer. Note: For straight waistbands align top edge of waistband front to back. For curved waistbands allow waistband to lay flat naturally. Using the three-point method, mark the points of measurement based on the specification sheet directions. Starting from top waistband edge, follow the hip curve shape for left and right side edges and from top edge of the front waistband at center of garment. Note: For curved waistbands to mark the center hip position use the top edge of the front waistband. Mark position of all three points of measurement. Note: Measuring points form a slight v shape. It is not a straight-line measurement from side edge to side edge. Position garment on table making sure to remove all wrinkles within the seat area without stretching the garment. Position garment, fully extending pleats, removing wrinkles, making sure not to stretch the garment. Measuring Method: Keep garment in the fully extended position. Hold seat area flat. Place the measuring tape on the left side edge at the marked point. Grasp the measuring tape with the right hand, Move tape along to the center of the garment at marked point. Note: Eliminate any wrinkles with the fingertips of the right hand without stretching the garment. Reposition the left hand to the right hand position. Hold in place with the left hand. Move tape along to the right side edge at marked point. Read the measurement off the tape. Double the measurement. Record the measurement. Section VI-H 17

18 2265 Seat Circumference Wrap Skirt Garment Set Up: Position the garment face up on the table. Waistline is to the left side of the measurer. Center front line of the garment is parallel to the edge of the table. Garment should be in easy reach of the measurer. Mark overlaps at waist, hips and sweep based on specification sheet requirements. Pin garment to the overlap marks. Remove wrinkles without stretching the garment. Using the three-point method, mark the points of measurement based on the specification sheet directions. Starting from top waistband edge follow the hip curve shape for left and right side edges and from top edge of waistband at center of garment Note: Measuring points form a slight v shape. It is not a straight-line measurement from side edge to side edge. Measuring Method: Place the measuring tape on the marked point closest to the measurer. Move tape along to the center of the garment at marked point. Note: Eliminate any wrinkles with the fingertips of the right hand without stretching the garment. Reposition the left hand to the right hand position. Hold in place with the left hand. Move tape along to the opposite side edge at marked point. Read the measurement off the tape. Double the measurement. Record the measurement. Section VI-H 18

19 2270 Front Rise Top Edge Garment Set Up: Position the garment face-up on the table fastened and zipper closed. The waistband of the garment is to the left hand side and in easy reach of the measurer. The wearer s right side seam should be closest to the edge of the table. Arrange the front rise to be as straight as possible without stretching the garment. Measuring Method: Position the measuring tape with the right hand at front rise inseam intersection. Hold in place. Note: Jean Construction. Edge of measuring tape should be positioned in the center of the flat felled seam, between the two rows of topstitching. Grasp the measuring tape with the left hand. Move tape along the front rise following the seam to the top edge of the waistband. Read the measurement off the tape at the top edge of waistband. Do Not Double the measurement. Record the measurement. Note: True fell seams are measured between the rows of topstitching. Mock fell seams are not measured between the topstitching. Section VI-H 19

20 2275 Back Rise Top Edge Garment Set Up: Position the garment on the table with the front facing down. The wearer s right seam should be closest to the edge of the table. The waistband of the garment is to the right hand side and in easy reach of the measurer. Arrange the back rise to be as straight as possible without stretching the garment. Note: Opening the front rise zipper will make this easier to position straight and flat without stretching the garment. Measuring Method: Position the measuring tape with the left hand at back rise inseam intersection. Hold in place. Note: Jean Construction. Edge of measuring tape should be positioned in the center of the flat felled seam, between the two rows of topstitching. Move tape along the back rise following the seam to approximately 1/3 the distance toward the top of the waistband Note: This is the point where the back rise seam will naturally begin to straighten out. Move tape along the back rise following the seam. Stop at the top edge of the waistband. Read the measurement off the tape at top edge of waistband. Do Not Double the measurement. Record the measurement. Note: True fell seams are measured between the rows of topstitching. Mock fell seams are not measured between the topstitching. Section VI-H 20

21 2280 Inseam Garment Set Up: Position wearer s right leg of pant, inseam on top of out-seam, with the inseam facing up. Front of pant should be closest to the edge of table with waistband on left side of measurer. Left leg should be folded once over the top waist hip area of the pant. Smooth out any wrinkles on wearer s right leg of pant. Keep pant in easy reach of measurer. Measuring Method: Position measuring tape at the rise-inseam intersection hold in place with left hand. Note: Jean Construction Position the edge of measuring tape at the center of the double needle stitch of the front and back rise seam. Move tape along the inseam of the right leg approximately ½ the distance toward the bottom leg opening. Reposition the left hand to the right hand position. Hold in place. Move tape along the inseam of the right leg to the bottom of pant leg opening. Read the measurement of the tape. Do Not Double the measurement. Record the measurement. Note: During the inspection, the left leg should be checked against the right leg to ensure both legs are equal. Note: True fell seams are measured between the rows of topstitching. Mock fell seams are not measured between the topstitching. Section VI-H 21

22 2285 Thigh Circumference - All pant lengths including shorts. Garment Set Up: Position right leg of pant face up waistband on left side of measurer. Left leg should be folded once over the top waist hip area of the pant. Smooth out any wrinkles on wear s right leg of pant. Keep pant in easy reach of measurer. Mark the thigh measurement point. Start from rise-inseam intersection. NOTE: Jean Construction Position the edge of measuring tape at the center of the double needle stitch of the front and back rise seam. Measure along the inseam 1 down. Mark position. Measuring Method: ` Align edge of measuring tape with marked point and side edge of pant closet to the inseam. Hold in position with right hand. Grasp the measuring tape with left hand. Extend tape across pant leg perpendicular to inseam and parallel to leg opening. Stops at the folded edge of garment just past outseam. Read the measurement of the tape. Double the measurement. Record the measurement. Note: True fell seams are measured between the rows of topstitching. Mock fell seams are not measured between the topstitching. Section VI-H 22

23 2290 Leg Opening Circumference Applies to all grade rules Garment Set Up: Position wearer s right leg of pant, inseam on top of out-seam, with the inseam facing up. Front of pant should be closest to the edge of table with waistband on left side of measurer. Left leg should be folded once over the top waist hip area of the pant. Smooth out any wrinkles on wear s right leg of pant. Keep pant in easy reach of measurer. Measuring Method: Align the measuring tape with the right hand on the center front folded edge of garment at bottom hem of leg opening (closest to measurer). Grasp the measuring tape with the left hand. Extend tape in a straight line along the bottom hem of leg opening, toward the inseam of the garment. Stop at the center back folded edge of leg opening. Read the measurement of the tape. Double the measurement. Record the measurement Note: Slit is not visible to the measurer. Spec package must indicate if opening is measured from top of slit or at hem. Section VI-H 23

24 2295 Sweep Circumference Skirt Non Pleated Garment Set Up: Position the garment face up on the table. Waistline is to the left side of the measurer. Center front line of the garment is parallel to the edge of the table. Garment should be in easy reach of the measurer. NOTE: Vents and slits are to be tacked closed for shipping. Slits should be aligned at bottom hem and center Allow garment to lay flat naturally. Remove wrinkles in the body of the skirt making sure not to stretch the garment. Measuring Method: Place the measuring tape on the side edge of garment at bottom hem closet to the measurer. Hold in position with the left hand. Move tape in a straight line toward the center of the garment. Stop at ½ the distance to the opposite side of the garment. Reposition left hand to right hand position. Hold in position with the left hand Move tape in a straight line toward the opposite side of the garment. Stop at the opposite side edge of the garment at the bottom hem. Note: For A-line and circle skirts do not follow the shape of the garment hem. Slits are measured at the top unless otherwise indicated on the specification package. Read the measurement off the tape. Double the measurement. Record the measurement. Section VI-H 24

25 2300 Sweep Circumference Partially Pleated Skirts Garment Set Up: Position front of the skirt face up on the table, with waistband and sweep parallel to edge of table. Position sweep in easy reach of the measurer. Fully extend the pleats, aligning the front and back bottom hem edges into a straight line. Smooth out any wrinkles without stretching the garment. Measuring Method: Place the measuring tape on the left side edge of garment at bottom hem. Hold in position with left hand. Move tape along the bottom hem edge toward the right side of garment. Stop at 1/3 the distance from the right side of the garment. Reposition the left hand to the right hand position. Move tape along the bottom hem edge toward the right side of garment. Stop at 2/3 the distance from the right side of the garment. Reposition the left hand to the right hand position. Move tape along the bottom hem edge toward the right side of garment. Stop at the right side edge of the garment at bottom hem. Read the measurement off the tape. Double the measurement. Record the measurement. Note: When skirt is fully pleated, counting the number of pleats per size is acceptable. Pleater will provide the number of pleats prior to final approved spec. Section VI-H 25

26 2305 Sweep Circumference Wrap Skirt Garment Set Up: Position the garment face up on the table. Waistline is to the left side of the measurer. Center front line of the garment is parallel to the edge of the table. Garment should be in easy reach of the measurer. Mark overlaps at waist hips and sweep based on specification sheet requirements. Pin garment to the overlap marks. Remove wrinkles without stretching the garment. Measuring Method: Place the measuring tape on the side edge of garment at bottom hem closet to the measurer. Hold in position with left hand. Move tape along the bottom hem edge toward the opposite side of garment. Stop at ½ the distance to the opposite side of the garment. Reposition the left hand to the right hand position. Move tape along the bottom hem edge toward the opposite side of garment. Stop at the side edge of the garment at bottom hem furthest from the measurer. Read the measurement off the tape. Double the measurement. Record the measurement. Section VI-H 26

27 2310 Skirt Length - Front Garment Set up: Position the front of the garment face up on the table with the waistband on the left side of the measurer. Right side seam should be closest to the edge of the table. Position the garment in easy reach of the measurer. Remove wrinkles in the body of the skirt making sure not to stretch the garment. Locate the center of the garment by measuring across at both waist and sweep. Mark the middle. Measuring Method: Place measuring tape at top edged of waistband. Hold in place with the left hand. Move tape down toward the hem of the garment. Stop at half the distance toward the bottom hem of the garment. Reposition the left hand to the right hand position. Move tape down toward the hem of the garment. Stop at the bottom hem of the garment. Read the measurement off the tape. Do Not Double the measurement. Record the measurement. Section VI-H 27

28 2315 Positioning a Bias Garment Note: The most important aspect of measuring a bias garment is the correct positioning of the garment. Position the garment face up on the table, waistline to the left side of the measurer, center front line of the garment is parallel to the edge of the table. The garment should be in easy reach of the measurer. Lining of the garment will need to be eased out as well. Straighten the grains at 90-degree angles, because the length and cross grains of the fabric will intersect each other at 90-degree angles. Locate the length grain of the fabric. Position the left hand on the garment at the side closest to the measurer, perpendicular to the length grain of the fabric. Take your right hand placing it next to the left hand on the garment. Hands should be parallel to each other. Trace the length grain of the fabric across to the opposite side of the garment. Keep left and right hands parallel to each other while tracing the length of the grain. Spread hands no farther apart than 12 to 18 inches. Repeat the above process starting in different locations from the waistline to the bottom hem of the garment. (Examples: waist area, high and low hip area, low hip / sweep area). After the length grain has been aligned and straightened out through out the garment, it is necessary to align the cross grain of the garment Step 2 Locate the cross grain of the fabric. Position the left hand on the garment at the side farthest from the measurer, perpendicular to the cross grain of the fabric. Take your right hand and place it next to the left hand on the garment. Hands should be parallel to each other. Trace the cross grain of the fabric across to the opposite side of the garment (closest to the measurer). Keep left and right hands parallel to each other while tracing cross grain. Spread hands no farther apart than 12 to 18 inches. Section VI-H 28

29 Positioning a Bias Garment (continued) Repeat the above process starting in different locations from the waistline to the bottom hem of the garment. Examples: waist area, high and low hip area, low hip / sweep area). Note: The front of a bias skirt is usually larger than the back of the garment (98% of the time). Therefore, the side seams of the garment will be under the garment and not visible from the measurer s point of view. The nature of the bias grain is a soft drape. Therefore, the sides of the garment will have a soft small drape like appearance (soft folds or waves). Do not stretch or straighten out. Sweep will have some soft fluting like appearance due to the pin or baby hems. Do not straighten or flatten out. The center portion of the garment will be flat. Once the garment has been correctly positioned, following the above directions, it should not be moved for the following points of measurement: Front Length Back Length Waist Hips Sweep Critical Points to be measured Waist Low Hip Sweep Length Note: Body width measurements are to be measured first, then without moving the garment length measurements should be done. Section VI-H 29

30 NON-CRITICAL POINTS OF MEASUREMENTS FOR THE WOVEN BOTTOMS: 2350 Waistband Height: Measure from top edge of band straight down to bottom band seam Facing Height Measure from bottom edge of facing straight up to seam at the top edge of the waist Casing Height for drawstring Measure from top edge to first stitch. Or Measure between stitch lines. Section VI-H 30

31 2365 Yoke Height at Center Front Measure from waist seam to yoke seam in the center front of the garment. True fell seams are measured between the rows of topstitching. Mock fell seams are not measured between the top stitching 2370 Yoke Height at Center Back Measure from waist seam to yoke seam in the center back of the garment. True fell seams are measured between the rows of topstitching. Mock fell seams are not measured between the top stitching 2375 Yoke Side / Out-seam Measure from waist seam to yoke seam at the side seam (out-seam) of the garment. True fell seams are measured between the rows of topstitching. Mock fell seams are not measured between the top stitching Front Waist Dip Measure down at center from the top edge of the back waist (or waistband) to the top center edge of the front waist (or waistband). Section VI-H 31

32 2377 Top Edge Placement from the Natural Waist During the fit process front dip is measured from the center front natural waist position to the top center edge of waist (or waistband) This measurement can only be done while the garment is worn. natural waist 2380 High Hip Placement Measure down from top edge of the front waist at center of garment to the point specified on the specification sheet. Also measure at the sides following the hip shapes. This is the three-point method of marking hip placement. Section VI-H 32

33 2385 Low Hip Placement Measure down from top edge of the front waist at center of garment to the point specified on the specification sheet. Also measure at the sides following the hip shapes. This is the three-point method of marking hip placement Seat Placement Measure down from top edge of the front waist at center of garment to the point specified on the specification sheet. Also measure at the sides following the hip shapes. This is the three-point method of marking hip placement Cuff Height - Leg Measure cuff from top to bottom edge 2395 Slit Opening Measure from bottom fold of hem to top of slit opening. Section VI-H 33

34 2400 Vent Opening Measure from bottom fold of hem to top of vent opening Vent Width Measure from folded edge to stitch. Or Measure from fold to lining seam Knee Placement Measure along inseam starting from the rise seam down to specified point on specification sheet Knee Circumference Lay the leg flat with inseam facing up. At specified point down from rise seam measure straight across the leg parallel to leg opening from edge to edge. Section VI-H 34

35 2420 Out-seam for Garments without Separate Waistband Lay the leg flat with the out-seam on top of inseam (matching). Measure from top of waist to the bottom hem edge Out-Seam for Garments with a Separate Waistband Lay the leg flat with out-seam on top of the inseam (matching). Measure straight from top edge of waist to the bottom edge Out Seam from Natural Waist During the fit process the out seam is measured from the natural waist at the side seam. Measure straight from natural waist to the bottom hem edge. This measurement can only be done while the garment is worn. natural waist outseam (from natural waist) Section VI-H 35

36 2427 Skirt Length on Body During the fit process the skirt length is measured from the natural waist at center front to the bottom hem edge. This measurement can only be done while the garment is worn natural waist 2445 Binding Width Measure from inside edge to outside edge of binding Hem Height Blind Stitch Measure on the inside of the garment from fold at bottom hem to top of tape edge. Section VI-H 36

37 2455 Hem Height Topstitched Measure on outside of garment from fold at bottom hem to furthest topstitch line Trim Height Set In. Measure from seam to longest point of trim Belt Loop Length Measure the loop from top edge or fold to bottom of fold Belt Loop Opening Measure from stitch to stitch to insure the belt will fit through the belt loops. Section VI-H 37

38 2475 Belt Loop Width Measure across from edge to edge Belt Loop Placement Front or Back Measure from the center of the garment to the closet edge of belt loop Belt Loop Placement Centered Over Dart Measure from the center of the garment to the closest edge of belt loop. center back 2490 Belt Length Tie / Sash / Drawstring Measure from end to end at longest point Belt Spec Length with Prong Buckle Measure from buckle hinge at center to the center hole. Section VI-H 38

39 2500 Belt Length - with Prong Buckle Measure from buckle hinge to longest point 2505 Belt Width Measure vertical from edge to edge Shoe String Length Knot Measure from knotted end to knotted end Shoe String Length Sealed Ends Measure from end to end. Section VI-H 39

40 2520 Bow Head Measure across from folded edge to folded edge Bow Tails Measure from center of knot to longest point of tail Bow Knot Measure across knot form edge to edge Pocket Placement - Patch Measure from waist seam down, as specified on specification sheet, to top inside corner pocket closest to the center of the garment. Section VI-H 40

41 2540 Pocket Placement - Besom Measure from waist seam down, as specified on specification sheet, to bottom inside corner pocket closest to the center of the garment Pocket Placement - Welt Measure from waist seam down, as specified on specification sheet, to bottom inside corner pocket closest to the center of the garment Pocket Placement Quarter at Waist Measure from side seam (out-seam) along waist to the specified distance on the specification sheet Pocket Placement Side Seam Measure starting from waist seam down, as specified on specification sheet, along side seam (out-seam) to top of pocket opening. Section VI-H 41

42 2560 Pocket Placement Yoke Seam at Center Measure from yoke seam at center of the garment to top edge of pocket closest to the center. True fell seams are measured between the rows of topstitching. Mock fell seams are not measured between the top stitching Pocket Placement Yoke Seam at Side (Out-seam) Measure from yoke seam at sides of the garment to the top edge of pocket closest to the side. True fell seams are measured between the rows of topstitching. Mock fell seams are not measured between the top stitching Pocket Placement Coin from waist Measure down starting from waist seam to point specified on the specification sheet Pocket Placement Coin from sides Measure from side seam (out-seam) to point specified on the specification sheet. Section VI-H 42

43 2580 Pocket Height Patch Measure straight from top edge of pocket to the bottom edge of pocket. Specification sheet will advise if measurement is in the center or the sides. If not indicated in specification sheet it is assumed to be in the center 2585 Pocket Height Besom Measure seam to seam vertically Pocket Height Welt Measure from seam to edge vertically Pocket Height Quarter Measure along side seam from waistband seam to pocket edge Section VI-H 43

44 2600 Pocket Height Coin Measure from the top edge of the coin pocket to the bottom edge of the pocket bag facing Pocket Opening - Patch Measure straight from side to side at top edge of pocket Pocket Opening Quarter Measure actual opening along edge Pocket Opening On Seam Measure along the opening from end to end. Section VI-H 44

45 2620 Pocket Opening Besom and Welt Measure opening from end to end Pocket opening Coin Measure straight from side edge to side edge at top edge of pocket Pocket Flap Height at Center Measure at center of flap from edge to seam (including besom) Pocket Flap Height at Side Measure at side of flap from edge to seam (including besom). Right and left sides should measure the same unless otherwise specified on the specification sheet. Section VI-H 45

46 2640 Pocket Width -Patch Measure straight from side to side at widest point of pocket Pocket Flap Width Top Measure at top of flap from edge to edge Pocket Flap Width Bottom Measure at bottom of flap from edge to edge Pocket Flap Width at Widest Point Measure at straight across at widest point (as specified) of flap from edge to edge. Section VI-H 46

47 2659 Fly Width Measure from front edge across fly to farthest stitch 2660 Garment Opening Measure from top of the garment opening (include waistband) to the top of the zipper head while zipper is in the open position. Measurement can only be taken once the zipper is set into the garment. Note: This measurement method can be used for any type of functional opening such as button fly Fly Opening Measure from top edge of waist (include waistband) to the lowest stitch of the fly opening with the garment closed Zipper Length Regular Measure from top of zipper at stoppers to zipper bar at bottom of zipper. This measuring method is for purchasing zipper and is measured before setting into the garment. zipper length Section VI-H 47

48 center center 2670 Zipper Length Invisible Measure from top of zipper at stoppers to the bottom of zipper (where teeth are fused together). Purchase zipper length is 1-1 ½ longer then the finished sewn in length Dart Placement Front Measure from center of garment to dart along the waist seam. Note: Inner darts = darts closest to the center of the garment. Outer darts = darts furthest from the center of garment Dart Placement Back Measure from center of garment to dart along the waist seam. Note: Inner darts = darts closest to the center of the garment. Outer darts = darts furthest from the center of garment Dart Depth Measure across the widest part of the dart seam allowance. Measurement is not to be doubled. Section VI-H 48

49 2690 Dart Length Measured along dart seam starting from seam intersection at waist to dart point Dart Point Spread Measure the distance between darts from point to point. Use the same method for all dart placements (front or back). Section VI-H 49