The SensorMaster is a precision diagnostic toll for testing and identifying sensor and exciter ring faults in ABS/EBS systems

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1 Product descriptions and illustrations contained in this advertisement are subject to change without prior notice. We will not accept any liability for omissions, inaccuracies or printing error. Please contact your local dealer for any technical assistance. About the SensorMaster Congratulations on purchasing your new SensorMaster DRA08 The SensorMaster is a precision diagnostic toll for testing and identifying sensor and exciter ring faults in ABS/EBS systems The SensorMaster is compatible with any ABS/EBS system produced by Knorr-Bremse, Haldex or Wabco and can be used on trucks, trailers, buses and coaches. The SensorMaster comes complete with everything needed to use it straight out of the box. Included in your delivery, you should find the following items: SensorMaster Unit 9V battery (which may already be fitted) Robust carry case for SensorMaster unit 1.6m of high quality cable In addition if you also ordered the extra lead, to fit Volvo and Scania vehicles, then that too will be included. Thank you for purchasing the SensorMaster.

2 Features and Benefits Lightweight Fit comfortable in the hand, and is easy to operate in cramped or awkward situations, for example underneath a vehicle. Portable The SensorMaster is ideal for mobile diagnostic use. It runs off a standard 9V battery, so requires no mains lead, and is robust enough to use in adverse weather conditions. Simple to operate All the instructions necessary to use the SensorMaster are printed on the face of the unit. It requires no complex manuals or specialist training courses to master. You can be up and running in literally a matter of minutes. Faults are indicated by simple comprehend LED display, and the unit even tell you when the battery needs replacing. Quick The SensorMaster can complete a test cycle of the six most common causes of sensor related faults, at the touch of a button, in just 15 seconds. Accurate However, speed is nothing without accuracy, and the SensorMaster will deliver precise, accurate results that are easy to interpret. Robust The SensorMaster has been designed and tested for professional use. It is manufactured from high quality components, has a wipe clean surface, and comes supplied with it s own protective carry case, 1.6m of quality cable, and 1 years parts and labour (return to base) Warranty. Compatible The SensorMaster is compatible with 90% of applications as standard. It works with any ABS/EBS system made by either Knorr-Bremse, Haldex or Wadco, fitted to any type of commercial vehicle, whether it be a truck, trailer, bus or coach. Cost Effective The SensorMaster is one investment decision that isn t difficult to justify. Given its speed, ease of operation, accuracy, and price Connects directly to the sensor socket on each wheel 80% all ABS/EBS faults ate sensor related (source: Knorr-Bremse and Wabco), therefore, connecting to the sensor socket on each wheel makes sense; you are, in effect, going straight to the most likely source of any ABS/EBS problem. Comprehensive The SensorMaster tests for the following causes of sensor related faults on ABS/EBS system: 1. Correct Ohms resistance 2. Open circuit 3. Short circuit 4. Pole ring tooth damage 5. Pole ring mis-alignment 6. Sensor gap measurement

3 Individual Tests Wheel Stationary Press the ON / OFF button once The SensorMaster unit will then automatically start the ohms test. 1. If no sensor is connected The far right LED on the top array marked O/C will light up RED. Further tests cannot be conducted using the unit, until the fault is correct. 2. Sensor connected but open circuit The far right LED on the top array marked O/C will light up RED. Further tests cannot be conducted using the unit, until the fault is correct. 3. Sensor connected but short circuit The far left LED on the top array marked S/C will light up RED. Further tests cannot be conducted using the unit, until the fault is correct. 4. Sensor connected but high ohms The LED on the top array marked HI will light up YELLOW (above 1700 ohms is high). 5. Sensor connected but low ohms The LED on the top array marked LO will light up YELLOW. (below 1100 ohm is low). 6. Sensor connected and correct reading The middle LED on the top array marked OK will light up GREEN. ( ohms is correct). Please note that in order to conserve power, the SensorMaster is designed to switch itself off automatically, if left unused for more than one minute.

4 Wheel rotating No damage to exciter ring Rotate wheel To conduct the following tests the wheel must be rotated at a minimum of 1 revolution per second (for best results rotate the wheel as quickly as you can) 1. Sensor touching exciter ring The far right LED in the middle array marked 0 will light up RED. 2. Sensor set 0 0.5mm from exciter ring The LED in the middle array marked < 0.5 will light up GREEN. 3. Sensor set 0.5-1mm from exciter ring The LED in the middle array marked will light up YELLOW. 4. Sensor set 1 1.5mm from exciter ring The LED in the middle array marked > 1 will light up YELLOW. 5. Sensor set above 1.5mm exciter ring (gap too large) The far left LED in the middle array marked will light up RED. Please note that in order to conserve power, the SensorMaster is designed to switch itself off automatically, if left unused for more than one minute.

5 Wheel rotating Damage to exciter ring Rotate wheel Rotate wheel as for previous tests. 1. Exciter ring not true to axle If this is detected, the right hand LED in the bottom array, marked Alignment will light-up RED. 2. Exciter ring missing or damaged teeth If this is detected, the left hand LED in the bottom array, marked Missing Teeth will light up RED. Please note that in order to conserve power, the SensorMaster is designed to switch itself off automatically, if left unused for more than one minute. Sensor Assembly Replacement When replacing a sensor always replace the retaining clip and ensure that the electrical connections are clean, dry and correctly assembled, the sensor should be disconnected at the plug on it s flying extension lead. Remove the sensor form from the housing together with the retaining clip. The housing is not usually replaced, unless it is damaged, however, a new retaining clip should always be fitted with a new sensor. The sensor should be greased prior to assembly and then pressed firmly into the retaining clip until the sensor shoulder abuts against the inboard face of the housing, ensure the cable is not under tension or fouling the brake shoes or return springs or any other moving parts. Note: Do not over tighten the cable tie, as the brake hose will expand when the brake s are applied, and the cable ties may shear the inner conductor of the sensor cable. This only applies when you have brake hose fitted.

6 Sensor Adjustment (Resetting) To set the sensor correctly follow the steps in sensor assembly replacement, then refit the hub assembly using the hub retaining nut to pull it into place on the stub axle. DO NOT ROCK THE HUB ASSEMBLY ONCE THE EXCITER HAS CONTACTED THE NOSE OF THE SENSOR AS THIS WILL CAUSE THE SENSOR TO BE PUCHED TOO DAR BACK INTO ITS HOUSING. Provided that the hub is drawn onto the stub axle the sensor to exciter air gap will be automatically set to the correct running clearance as the components come into contact. For disc brakes, push the sensor fully up against the exciter rung and then spin the wheel, this will automatically set to the correct running clearance. Setting the hub centre nut correctly to the axle manufacturer s data will ensure sufficient output, However, it should be noted that the running clearance between the sensor and the exciter must never exceed 0.5mm (0.020 ) at any point during one complete revolution. The Electronic Control Unit (ECU) incorporates two microcomputers which process information wheel speed sensors to determine wheel acceleration and deceleration. When deceleration, which would normally result in a locked wheel, is detected the ECU energises the hold and dump solenoids isolates the signal line to the modulator and prevents further pressure build. The dump solenoid releases air pressure from the brake chamber. After fitting a new sensor you can use the SensorMaster to check the output of the new sensor and the alignment of the exciter ring. Frequently asked questions Q: I cannot get a signal from the sensor what am I doing wrong? A: Are you spinning the wheel quickly enough? The wheel must is spun at a minimum of 1 revolution a second (for the best results spin the wheel as quick as you can). Q: I am spinning the wheel quickly enough but still can t get a signal from the sensor A: Have you tried resetting the sensor? If not then push the sensor fully up against the exciter ring. Q: I have rest the sensor, but still can t get a signal from the sensor? A: As the wheel is spun does the sensor move out of its retaining bush away from the exciter ring? If it does there may be a severe bend in the exciter ring, causing a loss of signal from the sensor. Q: The sensor test has the high ohms LED light, what does this mean? A: This means the sensor is above 1700 ohms. It does not necessarily mean the sensor is faulty; some new sensors are above 1700 ohms. Q: The two pin connection that comes with the SensorMaster doesn t fit my sensor, what can I do? A: We can provide a separate cable, which has two crocodile, clips on the end that will contact to other types of sensor connections.