A G U I D E T O CURLS PART I

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1 A GUIDE TO CURLS PART I

2 contents 03 E D I T O R ' S N O T E 06 H A I R T Y P E P O R O S I T Y 15 H E A L T H Y H A I R A N D S C A L P M A I N T E N A N C E

3 contents 16 T R I M M I N G 18 S L E E P I N G P R A C T I C E S F O R C U R L S

4 P U R P O S E Congratulations! You ve gone natural! Or maybe you re still thinking about inching closer to those shears. Either way, our curlbox E-Book (Volume #1) will help educate you on the basics of maintaining natural hair. This guide covers curl patterns, textures, porosity, and healthy hair and scalp maintenance. It s our hope that you ll use this guide along with your monthly products to maintain healthy, fabulous curls. 3

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7 H A I R T Y P E You ve heard a lot about hair type and texture, right? Once you transition or do the big chop, you re eager to determine your curl pattern. If you ve just done the big chop, give your hair three months to cultivate its curl before trying to determine your pattern. Translation: Give your hair time enough to grow to a length where it reaches a fully formed spiral. Many curlies rush to determine their hair type immediately, only to have it completely change three months later. 6

8 I S S U E S B Y H A I R T Y P E HAIR TYPE #1: This hair is typically straight and benefits from volumizing shampoos and conditioners. Heavier creams and oil weigh down the hair shaft. HAIR TYPE #2: This hair type can often be prone to immediate frizz and tangling, though usually a little finer than types 3 and 4. The softness of this hair types requires the use of serums, leave-ins and detangling sprays that keep it slick while detangling. HAIR TYPE #3: Gels, as well as creams, work wonders with this hair type. These curls can often exhibit a wavier pattern after heat-styling reversion. 7

9 I S S U E S B Y H A I R T Y P E It prefers creamy, thick conditioners to detangle, along with heavier twisting creams that contain aloe. Two-strand twists, braid-outs and coils are great styles to try. HAIR TYPE #4: This hair type is the kinkiest of the bunch and is prone to dryness and brittleness when not conditioned well. Use deep treatment masks and employ the use of a steamer to help with hydration. This hair type tends to hold twists, braids and coils better than any other type. Dry-twisting type #4 hair delivers amazing texture and patterns due to its ability to hold a mold. 8

10 P O R O S I T Y Porosity refers to your hair s ability to hold moisture or water. It s important to determine porosity so you can choose the appropriate products for your hair needs. Check out the porosity test in the image above and read on to see how to manage your specific porosity needs. 9

11 P O R O S I T Y LOW POROSITY: Low porosity hair doesn t have the ability to hold much moisture. The hair cuticles tend to be very compacted and moisturization can become very difficult. Employ the use of heat to force your cuticles open to receive moisture. Apply conditioner and use a hooded dryer, steamer or pre-warmed oils mixed with conditioner. Rinse with cool water to lock in moisture. Use lighter oils like almond and grapeseed as opposed to heavier oils like coconut and olive. Build up can usually be an issue for low porous hair types, so treat your strands to a bentonite clay mask once a month. 10

12 P O R O S I T Y NORMAL POROSITY: Those with a normal level of porosity may suffer from seasonal issues (dryer hair in colder temperatures) but generally don t have an issue receiving and maintaining moisture. Stick to conditioning agents and products that soften and nourish. HIGH POROSITY: Those with high porosity hair can easily absorb water but tend to need more product to combat frizz and actually define curls. The main culprit behind high porosity hair is heat and chemical damage. The hair becomes tangled in a short amount of time. 11

13 P O R O S I T Y Use a thick restorative, conditioning masque infused with heavier butters (i.e. shea, mango) and oils (i.e. argan, olive). Also, employ the use of protein treatments to help strengthen the hair shaft on a biweekly basis. 12

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16 H E A L T H Y H A I R & S C A L P SCALP CARE: Typically, a healthy scalp equates to growing and maintaining healthy hair. First, address your current scalp issues. Is it dry? Do you have dandruff? Do you suffer from hair loss? This will determine your shampoo and conditioning regimen, along with the potential need to incorporate a hair care specialist. HOW TO KNOW WHEN YOU NEED TO SEE A SPECIALIST: If your dandruff woes go beyond the annoyance of occasional flaking, and your scalp is itchy, red, inflamed and sore, you should see a trichologist (one who specializes in the study of the hair and scalp) or a dermatologist. 15

17 H E A L T H Y H A I R & S C A L P Seborrheic dermatitis can contribute to severe hair thinning and hair loss. It s usually attributed to an overgrowth of yeast, but can be linked to other internal issues. Your specialist will be able to give you the best treatment plan. DRY HAIR & SCALP: Chronic dry scalp and hair could point to some internal issues, so don t hesitate to get your physician involved if your dryness is unbearable. However, most curlies will find that drinking water and using rich, hydrating shampoos that contain coconut oil, shea butter, avocado oil and olive oil help to reduce dryness. We also recommend doing bi-weekly deep treatments to fight dryness and breakage. 16

18 H E A L T H Y H A I R & S C A L P To create a more intense conditioning experience, choose one of the conditioners or masques from your curlbox and use saran wrap to wrap hair. Dandruff caused by dry skin will result in smaller flakes. S C A L P P R A C T I C E S MASSAGING: To encourage growth, try massaging your scalp for five minutes each day with a cranial massager (retails for about $2). Regular scalp massaging increases circulation, which, in turn, promotes growth. You should also be massaging your scalp while conditioning and/or deep treating each week. Using products with stimulating action, such as peppermint, tea tree oil and eucalyptus, also promote growth. 17

19 H E A L T H Y H A I R & S C A L P AVOID PRODUCT BUILD-UP: You ll want to avoid slathering too much product on your scalp, as this can cause serious build up. Unless it s a leave-in, DO wash out your conditioner. Those formulas are not formulated to be used as stylers. Also, you can avoid over-saturating your scalp with too much oil by using a dropper, along with the drop method. Simply drop pea-sized amounts of oil at various points in your scalp and massage the oil throughout, instead of squeezing copious amounts onto your scalp. 18

20 H E A L T H Y H A I R & S C A L P CLEANSE ONCE A WEEK: This isn t always a hard and fast rule, as many curlies wash bi-weekly, however, if you use a lot of product you should try to cleanse your scalp once a week to prevent nasty buildup. If you re rocking a protective style, incorporate a bottle with a pointed nozzle tip to apply a mixture of jojoba and tea tree oil. 19

21 B U I L D I N G A R E G I M E N HOW TO BUILD A REGIMEN: When you first go natural, your regimen will change the most because your hair will likely go through three different lengths throughout the year that will require different styling approaches. Here are a few simple tips to figuring out how to manage your hair throughout the week. DETERMINE YOUR "WASH DAY": If you ve just done the big chop, you may cowash every day and this won t apply to you. But if you re mid-length or longer, you may want to designate a day (perhaps, Sunday) when you ll wash, deep condition, detangle and style. 20

22 R E G I M E N G L O S S A R Y Take a look and see which styling practices might benefit your specific hair type. PRE-POO: This is a conditioning shampoo that works to remove build-up from your strands and preps your curls to be washed. They are creamy, infused with nourishing oils and typically don t lather. They work especially well for those with very dry hair that becomes easily tangled while shampooing. After removing a protective style, we recommend using a pre-poo or a generous amount of coconut oil on dry strands to dissolve build-up and hydrate the hair before washing. It helps strengthen your strands, which may be fragile once removing braids, twists, etc. 21

23 R E G I M E N G L O S S A R Y CLEANSING: Though there are various shampoos on the market, many fit into three categories: softening/strengthening, clarifying and volumizing. 1. SOFTENING/STRENGTHENING: Softens dry strands, hydrates the hair and strengthens the hair shaft with oils, proteins and botanical extracts. 2. CLARIFYING: Used to thoroughly cleanse the scalp and strip strands of buildup. Perfect to use once a month or after a trip to the beach. Also works well for the first wash after removing a protective style. 3. VOLUMIZING: Helps add volume to limp/fine hair. 22

24 R E G I M E N G L O S S A R Y CO-WASHING: A conditioning wash that removes superficial build-up on the hair and deposits moisture. Co-washes are perfect for a mid-week spruce up in the shower. In lieu of using shampoo, they re perfect for wash-n-gos and quick fingerstyles. Most formulas are creamy and, like a pre-poo, have little or no lather. DEEP CONDITIONING (MOISTURIZING): A deep conditioner is a thick mask (or masque) formulated with rich ingredients to penetrate the hair shaft and infuse incredible moisture. They differ slightly from a regular conditioner due to their thickness, heaviness and regenerative and restorative effects on damaged, dry hair. 23

25 R E G I M E N G L O S S A R Y You can use your deep conditioner as your weekly treatment or stick to deep treating once every two weeks. STEAMER: We love incorporating a steamer while conditioning. Steamers increase the flow of natural oils produced by your scalp. They are also a must-have when using natural products infused with botanical ingredients, because the use of hooded dryers and a processing cap can decrease the effects of your plant-based product. PROTEIN TREATMENTS: Protein treatments help fortify weakened, damaged strands that have been over-processed with heat or chemical treatments. They act as reconstructive treatments to repair the hair. 24

26 R E G I M E N G L O S S A R Y For normal hair, not facing any particular damage issues, protein treatments can be done every four to six months to keep the hair strong. Those dealing with severe breakage should work with their stylist on bi-weekly treatments. DO see a professional when trying to remedy breakage and damage with protein treatments. HOT OIL TREATMENTS: The purpose of hot oil treatments is to smooth the cuticles, help mend split ends and banish frizz. These treatments are also perfect for those with brittle hair that needs softening. Jojoba, castor, coconut and avocado are four of the best oils for this treatment. Do not - we repeat - do not put scalding hot oil on your hair. Keep the temperature warm. 25

27 R E G I M E N G L O S S A R Y MOISTURIZING: Moisturizing your hair is the practice of using a cream (something that contains water) to quench your strands. Technically, oils don t moisturize the hair on their own. They nourish the hair. You can combine them with a cream to increase hydration and softness. To truly moisturize curly hair, you need to squeeze, not smooth, the cream into the strands. Your location might determine your necessary moisturizing efforts. DRY CLIMATES: Drier climates will exacerbate drier hair types and intensify brittleness. Consider the L.O.C. method of moisturizing (liquid, oil, cream) to hydrate strands. 26

28 R E G I M E N G L O S S A R Y HUMID CLIMATES: Those living in more humid climates typically have an issue with reversion, frizz and maintaining definition. If you re trying to maintain definition, stay away from humectants - products that draw water from the air. Products containing larger amounts of aloe vera (listed higher up in the ingredients) will give you more definition. 27

29 T R I M M I N G Contrary to popular belief, everyone s hair is always growing. What differs according to each person is the rate of growth and retention. Enter: trims. This is the most overlooked aspect of the curly girl s regimen. If you feel like your hair isn t growing, you re likely not retaining length. Split ends and breakage will always undermine growth. Also, a lack of a good trim will affect the way your curls curl. Here s how to determine when and how often you should get a trim. WHEN TO GET A TRIM: How often you get a trim will be determined by your regular styling habits. If you re a minimalist who never heat-styles, you may be able to stick to getting trims every six months. 28

30 T R I M M I N G However, if you style frequently and heatstyle occasionally, you should assess the health of your ends every two months to see if it s time for a trim. For all the curlies in between, every three to four months is best. AT-HOME TRIMMING VS. SALON TRIMMING: With the help of YouTube, you may be able to learn how to give yourself a trim at home. However, we suggest going to a professional who can blow out your hair (this is the most effective method) and clearly see your split ends. A professional will also be able to help you maintain a nice shape, which is incredibly important for your ease of styling. 29

31 T R I M M I N G BUYING HAIR-CUTTING SHEARS: You ll want to stay away from using scissors that weren t created to cut hair, specifically. You can go to Sally Beauty, Target or your local beauty supply store to find a suitable pair. Look for shears with a harder blade to ensure clean cuts. The blades should also open and close smoothly. Lastly, ensure the scissor s handles are comfortable in your hands. Some are coated in rubber to ensure comfort. Most importantly, buy your shears in the hair department. 30

32 T R I M M I N G HOW TO TELL WHEN YOU NEED A TRIM: Single Strand Knots: These are small knots you find at the ends of your strands. They look like peppercorns and are the accumulation of shedding, tangled up in your split ends. Split Ends: Typically, split ends look broken and frayed on the ends. One easy way to spot them is to stretch out a cluster of curls and identify if the ends become thinner and more translucent. 31

33 S L E E P I N G P R A C T I C E S F O R C U R L S SATIN BONNET OR PILLOWCASE: You can sleep in a satin bonnet or on a satin pillowcase to keep strands from drying out. Cotton tends to seep moisture from your strands and can contribute to breakage over time. PINEAPPLING: To pineapple your hair at night means to use a satin scarf to tie your curls upward and secure the tie at the top of your forehead. Your curls will peek out of the top of the scarf, preventing flatness, and usually helping to preserve definition and volume. 32