TYROSTAN TYROSINOL. New derivatives for magnifying skin pigmentation

Transcription

1 TYROSTAN TYROSINOL New derivatives for magnifying skin pigmentation

2 Skin pigmentation

3 artificial tanners Bronzers Extenders or sunless Magnifier or accelerators Tanning pills (health food)

4 artificial tanners bronzers Color additives that stain skin without harming it. Produce a temporary effect - synthetic colors, - walnut juice (Juglone), - henna (Lawsone)

5 artificial tanners extenders Color additives that work through chemical reactions with protein of the skin. The process is independent from sun exposure - dihydroxyacetone, - erythrulose

6 artificial tanners magnifier Will make melanin form faster, increasing the substrate available for tyrosinase - L-tyrosine and derivatives

7 Causes of tanning Melanin s biosynthesis Reaction between skin proteins and specific reactive substances

8 Causes of tanning Paracrine factors Stimulating melanogenesis α-msh ACTH Endothelin-1 Increasing melanocytes b FGF Preserving melanocytes NGF

9 Why magnify tanning? Reduce long expositions to UV rays Increase natural protection to UV rays Avoid UV lamp Increase skin s beauty Increase sense of wellness

10 Recent developments US Patent (Sett 2003) L Oreal N-acyl amino acid esters increase level of tanning and skin browning and increase stability of self-tanning agents in a formulation for artificial tanning Isopropyl N-lauroylsarcosinate

11 L-Tyrosine amino-p-hydroxyhydrocinnamic acid a non essential amino acid substrate for melanin formation

12 L-Tyrosine In a biologic synthesis, increasing the concentration of the starting substance also it increases the quantity of the synthesized molecule. In the melanin s biosynthesis, the UV rays stimulate the process of melanogenesis, reducing tyrosine in cells and at the same time leading to an insufficiency of tyrosine

13 L-Tyrosine instability poor solubility not acceptable bioavability crystallizes to lower ph irritant

14 an innovative derivative from L-Tyrosine Caproyl Tyrosinic Acid

15 an innovative derivative (INCI Name) Potassium Caproyl Tyrosine OH CH 2 CH COOK NH C = O CAS Registry Number CH 2 (CH 2 ) 7 CH 3

16 an innovative derivative Idrophilic Potassium Caproyl Tyrosine an easy-to-use N-acyl derivative obtained via the condensation of Tyrosine with capryc acid (as the potassium salt), delivering the equivalent of about 10% of tyrosine

17 an innovative derivative Potassium Caproyl Tyrosine Characters Aspect Clear liquid Color Yellow Odor Light ph (c=10) solubility (water) complete Active substance (%) Trade name : Tyrostan

18 an innovative derivative Potassium Caproyl Tyrosine Tolerability Dermal irritation ( (in vitro) Ocular irritation ( (in vitro) NON IRRITANT NON IRRITANT

19 an innovative derivative Lipophilic Caproyl Tyrosinic Acid (and) Glyceryl Oleate (and) Sorbitan Isostearate an easy-to-use N-acyl derivative obtained via the condensation of Tyrosine with capryc acid preformulated with lipophilic diluents.

20 an innovative derivative Caproyl Tyrosinic Acid (and) Glyceryl Oleate (and) Sorbitan Isostearate Characters Aspect Clear liquid Color Light Yellow Odor Characteristic ph (c=10) n.a. solubility (lipo) complete Active substance (%) Trade name : Tyrosinol

21 an innovative derivative Caproyl Tyrosinic Acid (and) Glyceryl Oleate (and) Sorbitan Isostearate Tolerability Dermal irritation ( (in vitro) Ocular irritation ( (in vitro) NON IRRITANT NON IRRITANT

22 Efficacy Evaluations skin pigmentation after UV exposure Application On the back of 12 volunteers Area 1: emulsion-gel 5% of PCT Area 2: placebo Area 3: untreated 3 weeks

23 Efficacy Evaluations skin pigmentation after UV exposure The pigmentation efficacy is shown by a decrease in ITA values (Individual Typological Angle), that expresses the melanin index, calculated from L* and b* parameters. Higher the value, lighter the color

24 Efficacy Evaluations skin pigmentation after UV exposure The ITA value is inversely correlated with the pigmentation intensity.

25 Efficacy Evaluations skin pigmentation after UV exposure Results ITA T0 T1 T2 T3 T4 T5 T6 T7 T8 T9 T10 T11 T12 T13 T14 TYROSTAN PLACEBO Control area

26 Potassium Caproyl Tyrosine Results The area treated at 5% showed a highly significant decrease in ITA after exposure to UVA-UVB radiation (T 0 vst 3 and T 3 vst 14 ). The area treated with placebo did not show a significant decrease in ITA, at any time. The untreated control area, did not show a significant decrease in ITA, at any time.

27 Potassium Caproyl Tyrosine Results ITA = 5.3 (PCT) ITA = 2.6 (placebo) ITA = 1.2 (control) The application on volunteers of PCT for 3 weeks magnifies tanning or browning of the skin by about 50% in comparison to parallel application of placebo and about 77% in comparison to untreated areas.

28 Potassium Caproyl Tyrosine Conclusions This decrease was indicative of a general tendency to an increased pigmentation in comparison to the start conditions

29 TYROSTAN EFFECT ON TYROSINASE EXPRESSION ON MOUSE CELL OPTICAL DENSITY (% OF THE CONTROL) control Tyrostan 0,025% " 0,05 % " 0,075

30 Potassium Caproyl Tyrosine Conclusions Cosmetic efficacy as tanning magnifier Significant and modulated in time Easy to add to formulations Recommended use level : 5%

31 Potassium Caproyl Tyrosine Skin shines with a new light, naturally protected ensuring a sense of wellbeing THE SUN ALL YEAR LONG

32 Potassium Caproyl Tyrosine Formulation development The cosmetical application as tanning magnifier of POTASSIUM CAPROYL TYROSINE at 5% has been developed in products for suncare during and before exposure, and for suntan maintenance after exposure and its stability over time has been confirmed in several formulations in form of cleansers, gels and emulsions, considering areas of potential application.

33 Thank you for your kind attention