By TubeDude I have been pouring and painting lead head jigs since the early 1970s. My first models were mostly simple round head jigs.

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1 1 By TubeDude I have been pouring and painting lead head jigs since the early 1970s. My first models were mostly simple round head jigs. I used them both for fishing plastics and for dressing with assorted furs, feathers and synthetics. And for several years prior to that I made jigs by squeezing split shot sinkers onto hooks either plain straight shank hooks or special jig hooks when I could find them. Over the years I have acquired probably over a hundred jig molds. Some I still have. Many others I have either sold or given away after my interests changed or I no longer used them. I currently own and use about 40 different jig molds. Obviously, there are some I use more than others. There are few of my jig molds that do not bear the marks of customizing. I employ small drill bits, saws and files to alter these molds to enable me to produce unique designs and to get a better balance of hook size to weight for special situations. I have found that by fishing smaller heads with larger hooks I can work large plastics slower in shallower water. Similarly, by putting heavier heads on smaller hooks I can fish small jigs much better in deeper water or in a current. Many of my jig mold cavities have been grooved with a small saw blade or file to allow rigging the jig head with a short length of wire. After trimming away the lead sprue and the hook eye I can use the wire to create small spinner baits or inline spinners. These small bladed lures are often deadly for fishing either plastics or dressed jigs.

2 2 For many years I have also been modifying jig heads to create different shapes. These usually produce unique actions on the retrieve, on the sink or for vertical jigging. It is fairly simple to flatten jig heads vertically. You just need to squeeze them with pliers, with smooth jaws to avoid rough surfaces. You can also use a vise or even a set of welders clamps. Soft lead squeezes flat easily. And vertically flattened jig heads will zig and zag when jigged or retrieved. Flattening also increases the lateral profile. Getting jig heads flattened horizontally to produce a flutter on the drop has been more of a challenge. If you pour jigs on a standard jig hook the hook eye comes up at a 90 degree angle from the hook shank and makes it difficult to simply squeeze the head flat from side to side. I experimented with several ways to produce a laterally flattened jig head on several different jig head shapes. By using a pair of large side-cutter pliers I was able to pound the heads flat on a few jigs and they worked reasonably well. A few years ago I had a machinist fashion a special flattening tool that was held in a vise. It had a groove for the 90 degree hook eye and I just gave it a few whacks with the hammer until the desired flatness was achieved. It made uniformly flattened heads and they did work better than hoped.

3 The glider heads worked but I still lusted after finding a jig mold that would allow me to pour them in a laterally flattened shape rather than having to custom form them from other jig heads. I regularly checked the jig molds available from all the online suppliers of my tackle and lure making materials hoping to see the mold of my dreams. I m not sure how long Cabelas had been listing and selling their Wobble Jig molds before I finally noticed them in the online store. But when I first saw it I readily perceived that this was what I had been looking for. I immediately ordered one. That was in I began pouring wobble jigs in different sizes and painting them in different colors to integrate into my standard fishing arsenal. But I didn t really give them a workout until ice fishing season that winter. That is when I became a believer. In side by side comparisons with jigs made from other shapes in similar sizes and colors the wobble heads out-fished the others by a very noticeable margin. One difference became quickly apparent. The fluttering action on the fall when vertical jigging definitely induced pop on the drop strikes. I was getting more solid whacks as I dropped the jigs to the bottom when using the wobble heads. Similarly, I noticed that there were more instances of fish actually picking the jig up off the bottom if I allowed it to settle and just sit there. It seemed as if the fish were following the wobble jig down to the bottom and then attacking it while it sat motionless. As I produced more wobble jigs, in different sizes and colors, I had enough to share with fellow anglers. My suspicions of fishy behavior were confirmed by others who used these jigs and were able to watch their effects on fish with underwater cameras. They reported that large trout in heavily fished waters sometimes grew complacent and ignored standard jigs under the ice. But they witnessed several instances of fish zooming in to a fluttering wobble jig, following it to the bottom and then diving into the mud for it. Once I learned more about the wild action on these jig heads, and how to take full advantage of it to attract more fish, I began experimenting with variations in the hook sizes and head weights in order to improve the natural flutter. I found that these jigs were subject to the same factors as aerodynamics lift, thrust and drag. If the hook and head sizes were right and balanced with the right plastic or bait it was magic. Killer flutter. 3

4 4 Most jig molds are designed to use specific types and sizes of hooks for each of the different size mold cavities. The wobble jig mold has 4 cavities 1/16, 1/8, 1/4 and 3/8 oz. These cavities specify sizes 4, 1, 1/0 and 2/0 hooks respectively. The jigs I use most plastic or feathers are poured on 1/16 or 1/8 oz. heads and mostly size 4 or 2 hooks. But I use both larger and smaller heads and hooks for specific applications. I long ago learned how to modify jig molds to allow the use of larger or smaller hooks than a cavity was specifically designed to accommodate. So I went to work on my wobble jig mold with my mini drill and small files. Soon I was able to pour 1/16 oz. heads on hooks from size 6 to size 2/0. The size 6 hooks I use mostly for ice fishing or for vertical jigging for panfish when they want small offerings. The standard size 4 jigs are just right for fishing small plastic grubs, 1.5 tube jigs and for making super marabou jigs. Still larger size 2 hooks on the 1/16 oz. heads are ideal for fishing 2 or 2.5 plastics or for making larger marabous for fishing shallow waters. By enlarging the eye part of the cavity on jig molds you can use larger hooks. As mentioned, I have modified my wobble jig mold to allow me to pour up to 2/0 hooks in the 1/16 cavity. The pictures on page 8 show how 1/0 or 2/0 hooks in that cavity can produce super jig heads for fishing 3 to 5 plastic grubs in shallower water. The larger hook with the lighter heads lets me ghost plastics along over rocky bottom without spending all my time rerigging. That s often what it takes for walleyes early and late in the season. The picture below is of both wobble jig molds I own showing some of the major modifications I have made on the first to expand my creative horizons.

5 5 There are three steps in pouring and trimming wobble jigs. The first is the actual pouring which produces an attached sprue. This is easily removed with a set of gate shears as are any other minor lead protuberances. The last thing I do, before painting, is to gently bend the lip of the curved head down a bit to make a slightly flatter bend. This makes it easier to paint and improves flutter on the drop. The original design of the wobble jig mold produces heads with one barb for securing plastic grubs or pieces of bait. One of the modifications I made to my original mold was cutting in a second barb at the rear of the head to make the jigs more efficient at holding small tube jigs. However, I have not made that modification to my second wobble jig mold. I have only enlarged the eyes on the two smaller cavities to allow use of larger hooks. I left the single barb in place so that I could still have that style without having to remove the second barb when unneeded or unwanted. This picture shows some of the best colors for wobble jig tube heads along with some of the 1.5 inch tubes I use most. There are both 1/16 oz. and 1/8 oz. heads in the picture most on size 4 jig hooks.

6 6 I bought my second WJ mold after the first one began to look like Swiss cheese with all the modifications. I felt the desire to be able to make clean original pours without having all the extra trimming involved in using the original (chewed up) mold. Good move. Cabelas discontinued the wobble jig mold about two weeks after I got my second one. They had a patent on it and were exclusive distributors. I could probably make a handsome profit if I chose to sell one of mine since there are many tackle crafters who waited too long and they are paying obscene prices for any that show up on ebay. Okay, now let s look at some pictures of the various types of jigs that I have created both from my original wobble jig mold heavily modified and my second one which is still mostly in original condition. As mentioned, ice fishing was my first real test of wobble jigs. These are all glow models made with super glow powder. They look good and work in open water but really light up under the ice or at night. They range in size from size 6 hooks on 1/16 oz. heads to the large 3/0 hooks on 3/8 oz. heads for burbot and macks. Also notice that barbs have been removed on some jigs that are used only to present bait. The next few pictures are of various sizes of wobble jigs in non-glow colors. These can be used for fishing all kinds of plastics but are also good as a BDS (bait delivery system). They are very effective when you pin on a half night crawler or whole small minnow or any other type of bait you like. Their fluttering wobble action brings in the fish and the sweetener seals the deal. Chartreuse and white glitters are two of the basic food groups

7 7 Here are some of the proven best colors for use both with plastics and with bait only or bait added to plastics. Also there are both 1/16 oz. and 1/8 oz. heads. Hook sizes are mostly sizes 4 and 2, with some larger.

8 As I previously mentioned, I have found that 1/16 oz. and 1/8 oz. wobble jigs with larger 1/0 or 2/0 hooks are great for fishing larger plastics. The light weight head, the fluttering action on the drop and the snag-resistant design helps fish shallow waters with larger plastics with great effectiveness and fewer snags. These jigs are also super for fishing whole crawlers, half crawlers or for use with Gulp Minnows. The bottom pic shows some good colors. 8

9 9 I work with wire and make a variety of different spinners including the aforementioned spinner jigs. One of the modifications I made to the wobble jig mold was cutting a groove to allow inserting a wire while pouring the hot lead attaching it to the hook. That produced a wobble jig with a wire coming out the front for making a mini spinner bait. The combination of the flutter on the fall and the spinner turning both on the fall and on the retrieve really adds some attraction. These are examples of some of the mini spinner baits I fashion from wobble jig heads. Those in the top picture are made by adding bent wire and a blade to the hook eye, like the old favorite Beetle Spins. The models in the bottom picture are fashioned by molding a wire directly into the jig head before pouring. The wire is attached to the hook shank internally for strength. Both designs incorporate double barbed heads. These can be used for bait or plastic grubs but are ideal for rigging with small tubes, as shown at the bottom of the picture.

10 10 These are what I call wobble-jingle-tube. They are double-barbed wobble heads that have been turned into jingle jigs with a short piece of wire, a couple of beads and a blade. One of the other innovations I came up with was modifying the eye holes on my first mold to take a round wire loop rather than a hook eye. Then I made preformed 90 degree bend wires to insert into the mold instead of hooks. The unlooped end of the wire comes out the bottom end where the hook would normally emerge from the mold. When properly measured, bent and molded into the cavity the wire produces a blank that you can use for adding beads, spinner blades and hooks however you want. See the pics below. These two pictures show the process for wiring a wobble jig head. First, a 3 piece of.026 stainless wire is looped on one end keeping the loop as small and round as possible to fit in the mold cavity which has been slightly enlarged to handle it. Make a 90 degree bend in the wire, fit it into the mold and then pour, trim and paint the wired head. The Wobble Spin lure is completed by adding your choice of beads, blades, etc. You can use a small spinner blade by running the wire directly through the hole in the blade without a clevice. But the larger the blade the better action you will get by using a clevice on the wire. Be sure to use a small bearing bead below the blade to reduce the friction of the spinning blade. Use a single bait-holder style hook ring eye on the bottom wire loop. You can also rig a double hook worm harness for walleyes.

11 Below are a couple of pics of various sizes and colors of Wobble Spins using different beads and blades. You can fish these lures with either bait or small plastics. And if you prefer treble hooks to single hooks just use a treble on the wire loop in the finishing process or use a small split ring at the bottom to allow changing hooks as desired. 11

12 12 If you know how to work with wire there is no end to the creations you can come up with when you own a wobble jig mold. The next two pictures are further examples of integrating jig heads with wire, beads and blades. The following picture is of a design I came up with even before putting the spinner blades on the wire to spin around. This early design simply puts the spinner blade on the same wire loop as the hook. The blade flutters, flashes and creates vibration. But, it does not spin. Nevertheless, it is still deadly on walleyes and other species. For lack of a better handle I called these No Name lures. The next picture shows the hybrid lures I call Jingle Jigs. I have been making and using these on other types of jig heads for several years. They are especially designed for vertical presentations both under ice and in open water. They are made by adding formed wire with blades and beads. The jig wiggles around on its articulated connection to the wire. The blade flutters and flashes when jigged and spins when lifted or retrieved. The beads add color appeal and also click together for additional noise.

13 13 I have had great success with jingle jigs in all sizes and colors for many species on many waters. They work great with small plastics for panfish and trout. There is a picture of some special tube jig wobble jingles back on page 10. In larger sizes they bring in big perch, walleyes, bass and even catfish. They have proven to be especially potent for burbot fishing especially larger models in glow white, when fished with a big chunk of sucker meat or other prime bait. Burbot respond well to noise and glow. As mentioned toward the beginning, wobble jig heads are ideal for ice fishing presentations. They have been proven killers when used to fish small soft plastics like the Gizzy Bugs. Here s a pic. Since I make a lot of dressed jigs with hair, feathers and synthetics it was only natural that I tie some up on wobble jig heads. Below is a picture of a few color patterns of my Jig A Bous with wobble heads. They often prove to be noticeably more effective than the previously fantastic versions on plain round heads. The unique shape of the wobble heads creates a slower fall and a flutter on the drop. It also makes the jigs zip sideways when hopped up off the bottom. More action usually brings more attention.

14 14 One of the more recent wobble jig innovations I have incorporated into my arsenal are PBJs painted body jigs. As the name implies, the bodies are painted rather than being chenille or some other soft material. In the past I tired of having fresh newly tied chenille-bodied jigs become dirty and dull after only a brief use. Since a large part of the attractiveness of most lures is brightness and color I began wrapping jig bodies with craft cord and then painting them to create a longer-lasting lure with greater flexibility of colors. And the final creations were the jingle wobble PBJ s with spinner blades and beads added for flash, vibration and rattle.

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