Amelie Bag. Finish size 15.5 (40 cm) wide x 12 (30.5 cm) tall x 3.75 (9.5 cm) deep ---two interior pockets and one exterior zippered pocket---

Transcription

1 Amelie Bag Finish size 15.5 (40 cm) wide x 12 (30.5 cm) tall x 3.75 (9.5 cm) deep ---two interior pockets and one exterior zippered pocket---

2 1 1. Material list- all fabrics used are 44 (110 cm) wide. 1/2 yard (0.5 m) main fabric for front and back; allow extra yardage if you want to fussy cut a motif from your fabric; 3/4 yard (0.75 m) accent fabric for pockets and straps; allow extra yardage if you want longer straps; 1 yard (1 m) lining fabric; 3/4 yard (0.75 m) heavyweight fusible interfacing (45 wide); I used Décor Bond by Pellon; allow extra yardage if your straps and outer pockets lining need interfacing; 9/16" (14mm) magnetic snap; 7 (18 cm) zipper (or longer); Jeans/denim needle (100/16); I use Schmetz brand; Coordinating threads. 2. Cutting Directions Main fabric cut the front and the back of the bag; Accent fabric - cut pockets lining and pockets back; two strips 4.5 x26 (11.5x65 cm) for straps; one piece 8 x12.5 (20x32 cm) and one piece 7 x8 (18x20 cm) for interior pockets; Important note It is a good idea to cut the pieces for straps when it is time to sew them to the bag, you might want to make longer straps. Interfacing cut the front and the back of the bag and the pockets back. Lining- cut 2 pieces using the pattern for back of the bag; one piece 8 x12.5 (20x32 cm) and one piece 7 x8 (18x20 cm) for the interior pockets and one piece 9.5 x16 (24x40.5 cm) for the zippered pocket. Seam allowances Stitch using 3/8 (1cm) or even 1/2" (1.25 cm) seam allowances unless otherwise stated. Other seam allowance works too, just be consistent in using it. All the patterns include seam allowances. 3. Prepare your pieces - fuse interfacing Place the shiny adhesive side of the interfacing against the wrong side of the fabric. According to your fusible interfacing directions fuse the interfacing to all the pieces. Do a final press on the front of the fabric.

3 2 4. Sew the pockets Place the pocket linings over the front piece, right sides together. Sew with 1/4" (0.5 cm) seam allowance (see the black lines). NOTE If you use quilting fabric for these linings you should add interfacing to the back of these pieces (a lightweight interfacing works well). Clip the curved edges. Flip the pocket lining to the wrong side of the front panel and press. Pin to keep the bottom layer in place. Following the top curved edge of the top fabric, remove any excess fabric.

4 3 Here is a detail of the removed piece and of the clean edge of the top. Topstitch close to the edges. I topstitched a second line 1/4 (0.5 cm) away from the first one. Press again. Your piece should look now like this. The back looks in this way. Here is a larger view of the top edge.

5 4 5. Sew the left pocket Lay the left pocket back on the table with right side up. Place the front panel right side up over the pocket back. See the next picture for details. Align the left side of the pocket back with the left side of the top panel (see the blue zig-zag), the top curved edge of the pocket back with the top curved edge of the front panel (see the yellow zig-zag). Match the top right corner of the pocket back (see the black arrow) with the center point of the front panel (the black X ). Now your piece should look in this way. Use two pins to keep the layers in place. Place the pins next to the curved edge.

6 5 Flip the front piece. This will reveal the two pieces of the pocket (the lining and the back). Pin in place and stitch along the two sides (marked here with the yellow lines. Double the seam (stitch another seam over the previous one). Then flip back the front piece. NOTE Be sure to catch in the seam both layers of the pockets (one of the pocket pieces might be slightly smaller). Topstitch through all the layers to keep the pocket in place (see the black lines). Stitch 1/4" (0.5 cm) away from the edges. Repeat the previous steps and stitch the other pocket. After both pockets are stitched, the front of your bag should look in this way (the right side and the wrong side). If the pockets overlap, adjust the seam allowances. Here is a detail of the upper edge. Place the front of the bag over the back to see if they are even; trim any extra fabric if necessary.

7 6 6. Zippered pocket On the back of the bag we will install a zippered pocket. Place the fabric for pocket (9.5 x16, 24x40.5 cm) wrong side up on a table. 1.5" ( 4cm) from the top, mark a rectangle (centered width-wise) that is 7" (18 cm) long and 0.5" (1.25 cm) wide. Use a water-soluble pen for marking or mark with thin lines. Mark the red lines too. Pin the pocket fabric to the back of the bag, right sides together. Place the pocket 1.5" (4 cm) from the top curved edge. Stitch through all the layers around all sides of the rectangle (the yellow lines). Carefully cut down the center of the rectangle (the red lines in the previous image) and about 1/4" (0.5 cm) from the ends, clip toward the corners as close as you can without clipping the stitching.

8 7 Push the pocket though the zipper hole you just cut to the wrong side of the back bag. Using your iron and steam, press the rectangle flat. The pocket fabric must be hidden when viewed from the front side. This is how it looks from the front side and from the back side. Place the zipper right side up in the window and baste it (if you prefer you can only pin it). Stitch around the rectangle to secure the zipper (a zipper foot is helpful). Stitch carefully over the zipper teeth. If you used a longer zipper, it s now time to cut the excess. Fold the lining piece in half lengthwise, right sides together and stitch along the three sides. The zippered pocket is done.

9 8 7. Sew the darts On the front panel: Bring together the raw edges of one dart section, pin and stitch. Stitch twice to reinforce the seam. Repeat and sew the remaining dart. The bag starts taking shape Repeat the previous step and sew the darts of the back of the bag. 8. Assemble the outer bag Place the front of the bag over the back with the right sides together. Line up the raw edges and match up the darts. Pin to keep the layers in place and sew around sides and bottom. Stitch twice to reinforce the seam. Press the seams open. This is a very important step. Take your time and do a nice pressing to achieve a professional looking finish.

10 9 9. Stitch the interior pockets Place the two fabrics of a pocket right sides together. Pin and stitch around all sides, leaving an opening on one side (about 3, 7.5 cm). Clip the corners. Turn the pocket right side out. Use a pointy object to push out the corners. Press well. Close the opening (stitching by hand or by machine). Topstitch across the top edge of the pocket. Repeat with the other pocket. 10. Attach the interior pockets Lay one of the pockets in the center of the lining piece. Stitch the bottom and the sides, close to the edge. Backstitch at the top corners to reinforce the seams. I divided the long pocket into three sections stitching two vertical lines. Repeat and stitch the other pocket to the other lining piece. 11. Insert the magnetic snaps to the lining pieces Take one of the lining pieces and lay it down on a table right side up. Fold it in half to find the center of the top edge and mark it. Mark 1.5 (4 cm) from the top curved edge (the black X ). Center a metal washer over the X mark and draw other two marks at the left and at the right of the center mark through the two opening of the washer.

11 10 Using a seam ripper make two small cuts into the markings you have just made. Do not cut too much of the lining. Cut four pieces 2 x2 (5x5 cm) from a heavyweight fabric (or from a lightweight fabric doubled by interfacing). Make the cuts as we previously did on two squares. Take one of the magnetic snap parts and push the prongs through the right side of the lining. This is the back of the lining (the picture at left). Add one of the squares. Slip a metal washer over the prongs and then fold the prongs down in to the center.

12 11 Cover the back of the snap with another piece of fabric (one of those that doesn t have slits). Topstitch around the snap through all the layers from the right side of the fabric. After the stitching is done, cut out the excess fabric on the back, leaving small seam allowances. Repeat with the other lining piece and the other part of the magnetic snap in the same way. 12. Sew the lining darts As we previously stitched the darts of the exterior bag, now sew the darts of the two lining pieces. Stitch twice to reinforce the seams. 13. Assemble the lining Place the two lining pieces right sides together. Match up the darts. Pin to keep the layers in place and sew around sides and bottom. Leave an opening (about 11 inches-28 cm) in the bottom seam. Stitch twice to reinforce the seams. Press the seams open.

13 12 Turn the lining right side out! It is done! 14. Prepare and attach the straps Fold the strap pieces in half and press. Open, then fold sides in to center fold line and press. Fold in half and press again. Topstitch close to the edges then press again. You might choose to use interfacing on the straps depending on the weight of your fabric. If the fabric is heavy enough, it will hold its shape after the folding and topstitching. Since I used a heavy cotton canvas I didn t use interfacing for my straps. Pin the straps to the top edge of the bag. Stitch the straps securely in place at 1/4" from the edge. Double the seams. 15. Finish the bag Turn the bag wrong side out. Slip lining (right side out) into bag.

14 13 The fabrics are now right sides together with top of bag even with top of lining as shown. Match the side seams and carefully pin around the top to keep in place. Stitch around the top, joining the bag and the lining. Before starting to stitch see the pictures and directions below. Use two pins to mark the edges of the handle (which is placed now between the two layers- the outer bag and the lining). I want the width of the handle (marked here with the black arrow) be the same size as the upper side of the bag (the space between the two yellow arrows). Here is how to achieve this: Make the horizontal seam across the handle as long as the width of the handle (not shorter, not longer). The vertical yellow lines mark the edges of the handle. Check to be sure the seam across the handle does not extend its width. Correct the seam if something is wrong (the red line is a wrong seam, the black seam is the correct one). Double the seams across the handles.

15 14 Clip all the curved edges. Using the opening left in the lining s bottom side, gently turn your bag right side out. Tuck the lining down inside the bag. Push out the corners using your fingers. Topstitch close to the edge (about 1/4"-0.5 cm away from the top edge) around the top of the bag (use pins to keep the layers in place). Close the opening in the lining seam (stitching by hand or by machine). Press the entire purse, especially the top edge. Enjoy your new bag! I hope the instructions were clear and you enjoyed this pattern. Geta Grama Geta s website: Geta s blog: Geta: geta@romanianquiltstudio.com Copyright Information 2010 Geta Grama. Bags made using this pattern may be sold, please offer credit to Geta Grama for the pattern. Mass manufacturing of items made from this pattern is strictly prohibited. Copying and distributing (including electronic transmission) of this pattern is prohibited.