Inactive yeast: dry, suitable for human consumption; commercially available as flakes, powder or tablets.

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1 Yeast Beer INTRODUCTION Yeasts are living microscopic organisms that belong to Kingdom Fungi (Ascomycete), important because of their carbohydrate fermentation abilities, which produce different substances. Yeast Beer refers to certain yeast organisms used for beer brewing from germinated barley (malt). Only species of the genus Saccharomyces are used for brewing. These yeasts are able to grow anaerobically, making alcoholic fermentation. Yeast Beer has two basic forms: Inactive yeast: dry, suitable for human consumption; commercially available as flakes, powder or tablets. Active yeast: with carbohydrate fermenting activity; produces carbon dioxide. Yeast Beer extract is produced by means of aqueous extraction. This process yields an extract containing all of the water-soluble active principles of Yeast Beer. V 02-09/ ,47500,47510,

2 CHEMISTRY Yeast Beer contains high proportions of biologically relevant proteins, vitamins of the B-group and mineral salts. Proteins Yeast Beer is a protein-rich product. Its proteins contain significant amounts of all the essential amino acids (not synthesized in the organism; these amino acids have to be supplied with the diet). Table 1 shows the amino acids (AA) composition of Yeast Beer. Amino acids gr AA/100gr raw protein Glutamic acid 13.4 Asparagine 9.8 Lysine* 8.2 Leucine* 7.7 Alanine 6.7 Valine* 5.7 Serine 5.4 Isoleucine* 5.4 Arginine* 5.2 Threonine* 5.1 Phenylalanine* 4.5 Proline 3.9 Tyrosine 3.8 Histidine* 2.5 Methionine* 1.9 Tryptophan 1.3 Cystine* 1.3 Table 1. Approximate AA composition of powder Yeast Beer (expressed as gr per 100gr row protein). (*) essential AA ( Yeast Beer is one of the best sources of B-complex vitamins. It also contains biotin (or vitamin H or vitamin B 8 ), choline and PABA (para-amino-benzoic acid). Table 2 summarizes the major vitamins content in Yeast Beer. mg/kg dry flakes B1 300/500 mg B2 40/60 mg B5 80/160 mg B6 20/30 mg B3 200/300 mg Choline 4000/5000 mg Table 2. Vitamin content in Yeasr Beer (expressed as mg/kg dry flakes). ( V 02-09/ ,47500,47510,

3 Minerals and Oligoelements Yeast Beer contains high proportions of minerals and oligoelements, the most abundant being: phosphorus, potassium, sulfur, magnesium and calcium. Table 3 summarizes Yeast Beer minerals and oligoelements content. Potassium 20.0 to 30.0gr Phosphorus 11.0 to 16.0 gr Sodium 0.2 to 0.4 gr Magnesium 1.0 to 2.0 gr Calcium 1.0 to 2.0 gr Iron 30 ppm Silicon 30 ppm Selenium 0.1 ppm Table 3. Yeast Beer mineral and oligoelements composition (gr/kg dry flakes). ( TRADITIONAL USES After 25 years intensive research, Yeast Beer has become an extraordinary material for a number of applications because the biochemical processes occurring in yeast cells are rather similar to those of human cells and, additionally, yeasts are much easier to handle in laboratory. Most interesting for the skin-care industry is that yeasts may be considered complete factories, where all the life processes are represented. The use of yeasts in our society dates back to the beginnings of civilization; baking and brewing are clear examples of this. The development of the cosmetic industry promoted research aimed at finding alternatives to animal active principles. COSMETIC PROPERTIES Yeast Beer extract is a flagship active compound to present-day cosmetic industry; it is one of the substances big manufacturers require most often. Skin conditioning activity This activity is due to the protein content of Yeast Beer. The polar nature of proteins gives them the capacity to bind water molecules by establishing hydrogen bonds. This action is not influenced by the molecular weight of the protein. However, if penetration into the skin and moisturizing in deeper skin layers is the goal, then short-chain, low molecular weight peptides yield better results. Thus, low molecular weight proteins are good moisturizing agents for deep skin layers, while high molecular weight proteins due to their filmogenic action are better for surface moisturizing and for giving the skin firmness and smoothness (Griesbach et al., 1998). Therefore, Yeast Beer is highly recommendable to formulate cosmetic products with moisturizing, soothing and general conditioning effects on the skin. V 02-09/ ,47500,47510,

4 Activity as collagen synthesis stimulator Biostimulation is a group of procedures aimed at stimulating fibroblasts anabolism, especially collagen III, elastin and hyaluronic acid production from their precursors: proline, lysine and glucosamine, respectively (figure 1). Figure 1. Fibroblast activation (García Jiménez J.V et al, 2005). Adequate fibroblast activation produces proteins known as growth factors plus smaller amounts of hyaluronic acid monomers, produced through degradation by hyaluronidases. For successful biostimulation it is essential: to ensure that biological precursors are available to activate the fibroblast (García Jiménez J.V et al, 2005) Yeast Beer rich in proteins and amino acids is a good source of biological precursors for fibroblast biostimulation. This is a possible scientific explanation for the observed wound healing properties of Yeast Beer extract. Different assays and tests have demonstrated increased collagen production in fibroblasts and noticeably quick healing of incision wounds. Thus, the major cosmetic activities of Yeast Beer consist in promoting collagen and elastin production and restoring the extracellular matrix; these properties make this product very helpful in the treatment of sin aging. Vitamin and mineral replenishing activity The goal of the cosmetic use of Yeast Beer is to restore the skin natural balance, based on the vitamin and mineral content of this product. Yeast Beer vitamins and minerals strengthen the skin thus protecting it from stress, improving its defences and reducing the earliest signs of aging. Thus, Yeast Beer extract is recommendable to formulate cosmetic products with skin stimulating and revitalizing activity. V 02-09/ ,47500,47510,

5 Activity on the hair This action of Yeast Beer is due to its protein, vitamin, mineral and oligoelement content. Protein actions on hair include: protecting from external damages, repairing, conditioning and improving elasticity by coating the hairshaft with a film that reduces the risk of breaking Griesbach U. et al., 1998). Low molecular weight proteins can penetrate into the cortex of the hair shaft. Because of this property, such proteins are ideal to repair, strengthen and protect the hair from within. High molecular weight proteins, because of their ability to coat the hair surface, are beneficial for hair protection and soothing (Huetter, I., 2003). In regards to the vitamins, minerals and oligoelements in Yeast Beer: vitamin B2 (riboflavin) strengthens the hair structure vitamin B6 (pyridoxine) fights seborrhea vitamin B7 (inositol) stimulates hair growth vitamin B8 (biotin) contributes to reduce hair fall vitamin B9 (folic acid) acts on melanin, thus contributing to maintain the hair natural coloration PABA (para-aminobenzoic acid) prevents hair discoloration Magnesium gives volume and body to the hair Selenium helps fighting dandruff Therefore, Yeast Beer is recommended to formulate cosmetic hair-care and scalp-care products. COSMETIC APPLICATIONS Action Active Cosmetic application -Moisturizing Skin conditioning Proteins and amino acids -Soothing -Conditioning -Firming Collagen and elastin Proteins and amino acids -Wound healing synthesis stimulator -Antiaging Vitamin and mineral replenishing Hair care Minerals Proteins and amino acids Minerals -Stimulant -Revitalizing -Conditioning -Hair strengthening/vitalizing -Sebum-regulator -Anti-dandruff -Hair color protection RECOMMENDED DOSE The recommended dose is between 0.5% and 5.0%. V 02-09/ ,47500,47510,

6 BIBLIOGRAPHY Díaz Marquina A, Matallana González MC, Orases Villanueva MT. Vitaminas Hidrosolubles en levadura de cerveza y germen de trigo. An.bromatol., 1992; 44(1): García Jiménez JV, González JA, Albandea N. Tratamiento del Envejecimiento Cutáneo. Parte I. International Journal of Cosmetic Medicine & Surgery, 2005; 7(2):8-14. Griesbach, U., Klingels, M., Hömer, V. Proteins: Classic Aditives and Actives for Skin and hair care. C&T, 1998; 113 (11): (ref.2858). Huetter, I. Hair care with depth effects by low molecular proteins. SOEFW Journal, 2003; 129 (1/2): Websites: [accessed September 2007]. V 02-09/ ,47500,47510,