Carrier Oils Workbook School of Natural Skincare For personal use only.

Transcription

1 1 Carrier Oils Workbook

2 Contents List 2 General Carrier Oils Page Specialist Carrier Oils Page Butters & Waxes Page Apricot Kernel Oil 5 Borage Oil 21 Avocado Butter 35 Avocado Oil 6 Calendula Infused/Macerated Oil 22 Mango Butter 36 Castor Oil 7 Camellia Oil 23 Olive Butter 37 Coconut Oil 8 Carrot Tissue Infused/Macerated Oil 24 Shea Butter 38 Fractionated Coconut Oil 9 Evening Primrose Oil 25 Almond Wax 39 Grape Seed Oil 10 Kiwi Seed Oil 26 Beeswax 40 Hazelnut Oil 11 Kukui Nut Oil 27 Candelilla Wax 41 Hemp Seed Oil 12 Meadow Foam Oil 28 Jojoba Wax 42 Jojoba Oil 13 Olive Squalane Oil 29 Macadamia Oil 14 Pomegranate Oil 30 Fatty Acid Profile Charts 43 Olive Oil 15 Raspberry Seed Oil 31 Glossary of Terms 48 Peach Kernel Oil 16 Rose Hip Oil 32 Rice Bran Oil 17 Sea Buckthorn Oil 33 Sesame Seed Oil 18 Thistle Oil 34 Sunflower Oil (Cold Pressed) 19 Sweet Almond Oil 20

3 Fats & Oils 3 Fats and oils are an extremely important part of maintaining healthy skin and a healthy balanced diet. The fats and oils that we are concerned with on this diploma course and in this workbook are carriers oils, known as lipids and also referred to as vegetable oils, plant oils, or fixed oils. These form the foundation of most natural skincare products. These oils occur naturally in plants of all kinds and the oil is derived from the nuts, beans, kernels (stones) and seeds of these plants mainly through cold expression; pressing the seeds, nuts, and stones of plants to release the fat containing oil, butter or wax required by our bodies. Carrier oils, whether oil, butter or wax, are a very nutritious source of natural fatty acids, many of which are required by us for survival. There are some fatty acids that our bodies do not produce and these are some of the most vital to life. We therefore need to get these fatty acids from the outside world which is they are known as essential fatty acids and it is these essential fatty acids that provide the bulk of the nutrients required by our bodies; they are essentially the building blocks to humans, animals and plants. As such, we ve relied on oils throughout human history as a source of protection, nourishment, heat, insulation, and energy, not to mention the many other wide and varied health benefits - Reducing blood pressure and blood clots as well as increasing the flow blood Acting as messengers between cells carrying important information related to healthy functioning and metabolism Boosting the growth, metabolism, and regeneration of cells as well as the enhancement of their structure Reducing inflammation, improving damage repair, alleviating irritations and destroying bacteria Locking in moisture and maintaining a hydrated system Moisturizing, softening and replenishing cells Stimulating, nourishing and maintaining good eyesight There are many different types of carrier oils with varying consistencies, properties, and qualities and knowing which ones to use, whilst sometimes a personal choice, can be identified through research using this workbook and referring to the recommended reading list. For example, some oils are absorbed quickly (suitable for facial skincare applications) whereas others are absorbed slowly, also known as long oils (suitable for massage). There are oils that are thick, heavy and fatty (avocado and castor) and there are oils that are dry, thin and light (grape seed and hazelnut). Some oils are particularly good for oily skin (rosehip and borage) and others for dry and dehydrated skin (avocado, olive and shea butter) and there are a few that possess strong nourishing qualities for all skin types (jojoba, evening primrose and olive squalane). Some oils are known as occlusives because the molecules are too large to penetrate the layers of skin so they sit on the surface layer where they form a thin membrane (sesame seed oil, rice bran oil, avocado oil, and macadamia nut oil). This enhances the skin s protection, stops trans-epidermal water loss, whilst still enabling the skin to breathe. There are also oils that have

4 4 humectant qualities; an agent that helps to draw in moisture from the surrounding and surface layer of the skin, helping to keep the skin hydrated and moisturized (olive squalane). And finally, all carrier oils are known as emollients; an agent that softens and smoothes the skin preventing water loss, dryness, damage and irritation. One last thing to note about carrier oils. They can be used very effectively on their own without the need to carry essential oils, cosmeceuticals or active botanicals and in some situations it is better, if not recommended, to do so. Just like essential oils, carrier oils can also be blended together to create a more holistic and effective solution; the idea that the whole is greater than the sum of its individual parts is very true with the vast number of luxurious vegetable, carrier oils, just as it is with essential oils. In conclusion, carrier oils possess nutrients, vitamins and minerals that are required by our cells to function properly and by using the right fats and oils in their various forms (oil, butter and wax) we can alleviate infections, symptoms, and conditions, improve skin complexion, repair damage, regenerate, tone and protect the skin, hydrate and moisturize and delay the signs of aging. Put simply, carrier oils contain essential fatty acids, vitamins and minerals that feed, nourish and hydrate our skin. In this workbook we re going to explore 35 + natural carrier oils, butter and waxes, their INCI names, fatty acid profiles, general quality, absorption rate, and shelf life along with details about their individual qualities, uses and properties in natural skincare, so that you can find the information you need to design and blend your chosen ingredients and formulate your own products, the professional way. This workbook works well with the fatty acid profile charts found at the end, the cosmeceutical and active ingredient workbook and the essential oil workbook. The fatty acid profile charts go into detail about the therapeutic value of fatty acids and vitamins in natural skincare because it is these fatty acids and vitamins that provide the carrier oils with their healing and therapeutic qualities. The cosmeceutical and active ingredient workbook goes into about some highly specialist natural skincare ingredients complete with the properties and qualities. The essential oil workbook is complete with essential profiles for 15 + specialist natural skincare essential oils. We encourage you to use and study all these workbooks when formulating your own products and we also encourage you to extend your research to the external reading reference material recommended on this course. For ease of use, we ve also included a Glossary of Terms at the end of this workbook.

5 Apricot Kernel Oil General Carrier Oils Prunus armeniaca Cold pressing the kernel (stone) of the apricot 5 Fatty Acid Profile: Palmitic acid 3-7%, stearic acid 1%, oleic acid 56-68%, palmitoleic acid, 1%, linoleic acid 25-34%, alpha linolenic acid 0.5%. Vitamin E and phytosterols A light and long oil; Medium-Slow absorption rate Sensitive, inflamed, dry & mature skin. 2-3 years It is a long and light oil suitable for massage as well as skincare products Very good damage repair abilities making it good in a blend or on its own for the treatment of acne or inflamed conditions. Effective at reducing / alleviating itchiness caused by eczema. Good skin nourishing and emollient qualities; softening and moisturizing for the skin and it enhances the elasticity of the skin. This also makes it very good in lip balms. Interchangeable with Peach Kernel Oil.

6 Avocado Oil Fatty Acid Profile: Persea gratissima Palmitic acid 7-22%, stearic acid 1-2%, oleic acid 59-70%, palmitoleic acid 9-10%, linoleic acid 7-14%, alpha linolenic acid 1%. Vitamins - A, B1, B2, D and E. Minerals - potassium, phosphorus, magnesium, sulphur, calcium, sodium, copper. Cold pressing the kernel (stone) of the avocado Thick, fatty and heavy oil. Easily absorbed - Fast-Medium absorption Sensitive, inflamed, dry & mature skin. 2-3 years 6 There are two types of avocado oil, refined and unrefined. Unrefined is a dark green colour, is much thicker and carries a very strong aroma. Refined is much lighter & thinner with minimal aroma. Both absorb easily and quickly. A rich, nourishing, thick and fatty oil that is long lasting and easily absorbed. Great anti-wrinkle, skin cell repair, regeneration, protection and softening qualities that also prevents water loss. Hydrates, moisturizes and replenishes broken, inflamed, irritated, damaged, cracked and mature skin. A fatty oil that provides good protection against the weather and outside environment and also as an occlusive it helps to keep moisture locked in; very useful for lip balms, lip glosses and hand creams/lotions/moisturizers. Freshens, lifts and lightens skin complexion; smooths wrinkles and fine lines, removes dark shadows, grey, tired, and slack skin. Extremely useful for dark skin which produces less vitamin D in locations with less sunlight, such as Northern Europe. A very stable oil that can introduce a thicker consistency to creams. Excellent in all kinds of massage, skincare & haircare preparations and especially effective in a blend with other oils.

7 7 Castor Oil Ricinus communis Cold pressing the ripe seeds of the shrub Fatty Acid Profile: Palmitic acid 1%, stearic acid 2%, ricinoleic acid 75-90%, oleic acid 2-7%, linoleic acid 2-6% Very thick and long oil. Slow rate of absorption. Suitable for dry, chapped and damaged skin as well as mature skin 2-5 years Considered one of (if not the) thickest oil of all which is useful for protecting the skin against weather and the outside environment. Due to its thickness, it provides a thick and shiny protective layer for the skin making it good for lip balms, lip glosses and lip sticks and is also used in cleansers. Great for massage and for skincare preparations for dry, chapped & damaged skin e.g. hands & feet. Provides useful properties for healing skin conditions such as eczema and psoriasis as well as removal of age spots and brown patches.

8 Cold Pressed Coconut Oil Fatty Acid Profile: Cocos nucifera Cold pressing the kernel (stone) and meat of the coconut Lauric acid 47.5%, myristic acid 18%, palmitic acid 8-9%, ferulic acid Light, velvety oil. Medium-slow absorption Suitable for all skin types especially dry, damaged, cracked, chapped, sensitive, irritated, inflamed, fragile, and mature skin Up to 5 years 8 Coconut oil is made up of mainly saturated fatty acids which means it is a highly stable oil that does not go rancid very quickly or easily. It is extremely softening, moisturizing and hydrating, helps to replenish and soften dry, damaged, chapped, cracked, broken, inflamed and irritated skin including that exposed for prolonged periods to weather and the harshness of the outside environment. Very useful in the healing process from fungal conditions such as athletes foot and ringworm and it also aids the healing process from eczema, psoriasis, dermatitis, rashes, cuts, burns, wounds and sores. An amazing cure all skincare oil with strong antibacterial, antimicrobial, antiseptic, anti-inflammatory, anti-itching and anti-fungal qualities. Coconut oil also helps to coat and moisturize hair and the scalp which is useful for dry, frizzy and damaged hair and scalp. Coconut oil is actually a soft butter that melts at around 25 degrees centigrade.

9 Fractionated Coconut Oil Caprylic/capric triglyerides Cold pressing the kernel and meat then a refining process 9 Fatty Acid Profile: Caprylic acid 55%, capric acid 40-47% Light, easily absorbed. Medium rate of absorption All skin types; oily, dry, sensitive and mature skin 2-3 years Fractionated coconut oil is a fraction of the raw, extra virgin coconut oil which has been refined to create a liquid consistency and as a result it is slightly easier and quicker to use as well as more versatile. The refining process does mean that nutrients have been lost / removed but it still retains very good skincare and skin healing properties. Essentially, all that is left are the saturated fatty acids which make it a very stable oil - doesn t go rancid very easily. This is a very light oil, easily absorbed, leaves the skin feeling smooth, moisturized, hydrated and soft which makes it very useful in skincare preparations as well as massage. Capric acid and caprylic acid are good antioxidants and disinfectants which helps to prevent infections, soften and smooth the skin, retain moisture and alleviate the signs of aging. Useful in the treatment of skin conditions and infections as well as to heal cuts and wounds. Essentially it has similar properties to extra virgin / raw / organic coconut oil but it is not as rich or plentiful; still very valuable and easy to use.

10 Grape Seed Oil Vitis vinifera Cold pressing the seeds of the grapes 10 Fatty Acid Profile: Plamitic acid 5-11%, stearic acid 3-6%, oleic acid %, palmitoleic acid 1%, gadoleic acid 1%, linoleic acid 58-80%, alpha linolenic acid 1%, tannins. Vitamins - E, C and D Light, dry and long oil. Medium-slow absorption All skin types especially oily skin, skin with large pores, acne prone skin, thin and sensitive skin or damaged skin. 2-3 year shelf life The seeds only produce around 5-20% lipids so a lot of energy, heat and refining is needed to extract the oil in high volume. Always check with your supplier about the quality of the oil and whether it is produced through cold pressing. This is a really good step up from mineral oil and used mostly as the base in a product because the good quality grape seed oil has good stable and all round qualities. A light and dry oil that moisturizes the skin without leaving an oily residue making it extremely good for massage treatments. Due to the high content of linoleic acid it helps to treat poor circulation especially in the legs and feet; also useful when combating athlete s foot, excessive perspiration. The tannins are excellent antioxidants, astringents and anti-inflammatories which help to soften, smooth and moisturize the skin, improve barrier repair and tone the tissues. Good for smoothing wrinkles, fine lines and reducing stretch marks.

11 Hazelnut Oil Corylus avellana Cold pressing the nut 11 Fatty Acid Profile: Palmitic acid 5-9%, stearic acid 1-4%, oleic acid 66-85%, linoleic acid 25%, tannins. Vitamins A, B and E Contraindications: Light, dry, thin and long oil. Medium absorption rate All skin types dry, mature, and oily 3-4 year shelf life Avoid if suffer from a nut allergy A light dry oil, easily absorbed by the skin but it is a long oil which makes it very suitable for massage. It can be used very effectively with sweet almond oil which is almost the same in make-up; hazelnut is drier and thinner than the fattier sweet almond oil. Rich in vitamins A, B and E; moisturizing, nourishing, softening and smoothing for the skin, encourages skin cell regeneration, tones the skin and prevents dehydration. Relieves dry eczema and itching. It is also slightly astringent which make it suitable for oily & acne prone skin. Because it is so soft and smooth and because it prevents dehydration it is very useful for treating, nourishing and looking after baby skin.

12 Hemp Seed Oil Fatty Acid Profile: Cannabis sativa Cold pressing the seeds of the plant Palmitic acid 6%, stearic acid 2%, oleic acid 12%, linoleic acid 55-77%, linolenic acid 20-25%, GLA 2-5% Vitamin E Heavy oil. Fast absorption rate. All skin types especially sensitive, oily & acne prone, and aging skin. 6 months shelf life - 2 years with extra vitamin E oil added 12 Softening, soothing, and healing oil that is rich in vitamins, minerals, antioxidants and essential fatty acids including omega 3 & 6 and GLA which helps skin to retain moisture, increase ability to absorb oxygen, increase barrier repair and alleviate itching or irritation (useful for treating eczema and psoriasis). Hemp is able to penetrate deeply into the layers of skin making the skin softer as it does so; very good at replenishing the skin, hydrating it, softening it, toning it, smoothing out wrinkles, lifting tiredness, sagging and the general signs of aging. Better for facial and body applications as apposed to massage because it is a very short oil that, when used in massage, can be rough. For sensitive skin, it would be advised to use a softer, more gentle and lighter oil such as rosehip, borage or evening primrose.

13 Jojoba Oil Sinesis chinesis Cold pressing the Jojoba bean 13 Fatty Acid Profile: Palmitoleic acid 3%, stearic acid 7%, oleic acid 5-15%, palmitoleic acid 1%, gadoleic acid 66-88%, erucic acid 20%, linoleic acid 0.3%, alpha linoleic acid 0.2%, tannins Light and versatile oil. Fast absorption. All skin types - mature, dry, and oily 5 year shelf life - a very stable oil due to low content of (0.2%) polyunsaturated fatty acids (omega 3) Balancing, softening, soothing, light and well absorbed, leaves a silky feeling on the skin. Tannins offer good antioxidant and astringent qualities, helping the skin to feel soft and smooth as well as moisturized but without leaving it feeling oily, especially as it is so easily absorbed. Improves elasticity, suppleness and protective abilities of the skin and it also mimics the existence of sebum and assists with the breakdown of sebum that has clogged up pores which makes it great for oily and acne prone skin, but because it is a good moisturizing agent it is also brilliant for dry skin. Good anti-inflammatory properties which make it useful in the treatment of eczema and psoriasis and with antibacterial and anti-fungal properties it is useful for athletes foot or other similar conditions. Jojoba is a liquid wax and is the best vegetable oil occlusive - it forms a thin layer on the skin preventing trans-epidermal water loss, helping the skin to retain moisture, stay hydrated, moisturized, soft and smooth. Very useful for skin preparations on the hand, foot and face which are exposed to the outside environment and weather. Due to its versatility, it is very good for the treatment of rashes, sores and sensitivities of baby skin

14 Macadamia Nut Oil Macadamia ternifolia Cold pressing the nut 14 Fatty Acid Profile: Palmitic acid 9%, stearic acid 3%, oleic acid 58%, palmitoleic acid 18-22%, linoleic acid 2% Vitamin E. Mineral - magnesium and thiamine. Contraindications: Thick and dry oil. Medium absorption rate. Mature, dry and sensitive 3 year shelf life Avoid if suffer from nut allergy Unlike other oils, Macadamia Nut Oil has a high content of; palmitic acid, which slows down the aging process; oleic acid which is moisturizing and regenerating for the skin; and linoleic acid which improves the skin's barrier function and reduces trans-epidermal water loss. Our body produces palmitoleic acid but over the years this process slows right down which then leaves the skin to dry out. Excellent for anti-aging and anti-wrinkle blends. Good antibacterial, cell regenerative and antioxidant qualities. Emollient, rejuvenating, soothing, protective (especially against weather and outside conditions), easily absorbed. Healing for scar tissue, eczema and skin sensitivities - just not to be used for oily or acne prone skin.

15 Olive Oil Olea europaea Cold pressing the stone of the olive 15 Fatty Acid Profile: Palmitic acid 10-11%, stearic acid 2.6%, oleic acid 55-83%, linoleic acid 4-21%, linolenic acid 1%. Vitamin A, E, and K Fatty, medium-heavy and thick oil. Medium absorption rate. Dry, mature and sensitive skin Up to 3 years A humectant, medium-heavy oil that is excellent for dry skin and skin exposed to weather conditions and the outside environment; and widely used as an after-sun agent to hydrate and moisturize as well as repair the skin from wind, rain, the cold and intense drying from heat and sunlight. Due to its fattiness it offers a good moisturizing solution for the feet and hands, elbows and knees. A good anti-inflammatory agent makes it suitable for eczema, psoriasis, bites, stings and damaged skin. Improves blood circulation, reduces cholesterol, alleviates aches, pains and cramps and therefore used effectively with grape seed oil, calendula and thistle for varicose veins, excessive sweating, and trapped fluid that often occur in the legs and feet. Helps to strengthen nails. Often blended with other thinner oils.

16 Peach Kernel Oil Prunus persica Cold pressing the kernel (stone) of the peach 16 Fatty Acid Profile: Palmitic acid 5-8%, stearic acid 2-5%, oleic acid 55-75%, plamitoleic acid 1%, linoleic acid 15-30%, alpha linoleic acid 1%. Vitamin E Light and long oil. Medium-slow absorption rate Sensitive, dry and mature skin 2-3 year shelf life Peach is used widely to help with sensitive skin either in beauty applications or massage. It can be inter-changed with apricot kernel oil and can be used very effectively with the fattier sweet almond oil. Nourishing, emollient, softening, and smoothing for the skin make it good for lip, hand, feet, elbow and knee treatments. Useful skin cell regeneration, restructuring and moisturizing qualities mean it is valuable in anti-aging skincare preparations such as eye creams/gels.

17 Rice Bran Oil Fatty Acid Profile: Oryza sativa Cold pressing the rice bran seeds Palmitic acid 16%, stearic acid 2%, oleic acid 42%, linoleic acid 36%, ferulic acid Vitamin E Medium-weight oil, easily absorbed. Fast-medium absorption rate. All skin types especially dry, sensitive, baby skin, and mature skin 2-3 years 17 High content of palmitic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid and ferulic acid, which help to reduce fine lines and skin aging, improve the skin s barrier, and retain moisture. Ferulic acid is also a good source of antioxidant that helps to repair damaged skin from caused by the sun, radiation or light. Reduces puffiness, wrinkles, fine lines and dark shadows around the eyes Good source of Omega 6 and antioxidants. Nourishing and skin softening. Protects against premature aging. Easily absorbed. Contains sterol oryzanol which helps to reduce cholesterol, improves circulation, alleviates stress and reduces inflammation. Wonderful for facial oils and serums.

18 Sesame Seed Oil Sesamum indicum Cold pressing the seeds 18 Fatty Acid Profile: Palmitic acid 9.8%, stearic acid 4.3%, oleic acid 45.5%, linoleic acid 40% Vitamins - A, B, and E. Minerals - calcium, magnesium and phosphorous Medium-thick and long oil. Medium-slow absorption rate All skin types, dry, oily and mature 2-3 years A very high content of vitamin E mean that it has a high content of antioxidants helping sesame seed oil to replenish, moisturize and soften the skin as well as protect it from the environment by increasing the barrier s repairing abilities. The phytosterols provide anti-inflammatory and anti-itching qualities and the high content of polyphenols help with oily or acne prone skin as well as other sensitive skin conditions such as eczema and psoriasis. Sesame seed oil is a light oil good for massage, facial applications, hand and foot preparations and generally all body beauty purposes. As a long oil it is good for lip balms, salves and glosses as well as massage, with the latter best when blended with other long oils such as grape seed oil or sweet almond oil. High content of essential fatty acids that are polyunsaturated, sesame possesses strong cell regeneration, restructuring, softening and moisturizing qualities. Useful as a massage oil but it does carry a strong aroma so just need to make sure the client enjoys the smell.

19 Sunflower Oil Helianthus annuus Cold pressing the seeds 19 Fatty Acid Profile: Palmitic acid 4-7%, stearic acid 2-4%, oleic acid 15-35%, linoleic acid 55-70%. Vitamin A, D and E. Minerals - calcium, zinc, potassium, iron, phosphorous. Light, dry and short oil. Very versatile. Medium-Fast absorption rate Normal, oily and sensitive skin (also quite good for dry skin with other fattier oils) 2 year A light oil with softening and nourishing qualities that is rich in vitamin E, omega 3 & 6 making it suitable for all skin types and all manner of skin conditions. It is not suitable for massage due to its fast absorption rate, but is excellent for the treatment of poor circulation leading to discomfort, trapped fluid, excessive perspiration, cramps, pain and inflammation, varicose veins and hemorrhoids. As a dry oil it is good for the treatment of acne and spots and helpful also for eczema and psoriasis. Sunflower oil is commonly used as the base oil for herbal macerations such as Calendula because it is such a versatile oil. It is a neutral oil which means minimal odour, is very similar to the body s own oil (sebum) and it seems to mirror natural skin lipids. It is a good all round oil, cheap and used widely as a base ingredient in products containing more expensive, thicker, or specialist oils. NB - this information relates to the cold pressed sunflower oil or extra virgin or organic sunflower oil and not to the sunflower oil that is found in supermarkets and used for cooking.

20 Sweet Almond Oil Prunus dulcis Cold pressing the nut 20 Fatty Acid Profile: Palmitic acid 6-8%, stearic acid 1-2%, oleic acid 60-80%, palmitoleic acid <1%, linoleic acid 17-30%, alpha linolenic acid 0.5% Contraindications: Light and long oil. Slightly fatty. Slow rate of absorption All skin types. 2 years Avoid with nut allergy. Good source of vitamin E; provides antioxidant qualities which makes it a good emollient (softens and smoothes the skin). High Vitamin D content makes it great for dry skin As a long oil it is a preferred oil for massage. Moisturizing and hydrating for dry, chapped and cracked skin, good for baby sensitive skin including rashes and sores, suitable for eczema and psoriasis as well as cleansing products.

21 Borage Oil Fatty Acid Profile: Specialist Carrier Oils Borago officinalis Cold pressing the seeds Palmitic acid 9-11%, stearic acid 3-4%, oleic acid 15-20%, palmitoleic acid 0.5%, eicosenoic acid 4-5%, erucic acid 4-5% Light and short oil. Easily absorbed. Absorbed quickly. Suitable for all skin types especially dry, sensitive and mature skin 6 months shelf life - or 1-2 years with added vitamin E 21 Extremely useful in skin preparations especially of the face. For massage use in low dilutions alongside other longer oils. It is rich in GLA (an omega 6 fatty acid) which helps the skin to retain moisture, prevents it from drying and increases the skin cells ability to absorb oxygen. It has great skin rejuvenation, anti-aging, scar treatment abilities which makes borage useful for the treatment of eczema and psoriasis as well as burns and open wounds such as cuts and grazes Very effective in anti-aging preparations to smooth wrinkles, replenish the complexion, alleviate dark shadows and fine lines around the eyes. Improves skin cell elasticity and holds onto moisture keeping the skin hydrated and moisturized. With combination skin, borage helps to bring better tone, cleanse, hydrate and remove toxins, encouraging a glowing complexion.

22 Calendula Infused/Macerated Oil Calendula officinalis 22 Infusing/macerating the flowers in another oil e.g. cold pressed sunflower oil Fatty Acid Profile: Palmitic acid 2%, stearic acid 2%, loeic acid 3.1%, linoleic acid 27%, 64% linolenic acid Dry, light and short oil. This will vary depending on base used to macerate, but usually sunflower which is a quickly absorbed oil All skin types especially inflamed, sore, irritated, broken and sensitive skin This will vary depending on the oil used to macerate it e.g. sunflower may only have a shelf life of 6 months. Best to ask the manufacturer, or if you are macerating your own ensure you know the shelf life of the chosen base oil. You can add vitamin E oil to prolong the shelf life. Calendula is a dry oil with good astringent properties due to presence of calendic acid. This is considered an omega 6 fatty acid and makes Calendula very good for oily or acne prone skin as well as mature skin. High content of anti-oxidants come from caretenoids and tocopherols which also provide skin moisturizing and softening properties enabling dry and damaged as well as sensitive skin to benefit from Calendula. A strong anti-inflammatory, anti-bactericidal, antimicrobial and antiseptic agent that helps the skin to repair and heal making it useful for sore, broken, chapped and cracked skin. Great for any skin that is inflamed, sore or irritated.

23 Camellia Oil Fatty Acid Profile: Camellia japonica Cold pressing the nut that arrives after the blossom Palmitic acid 9%, stearic acid 1%, oleic acid 80%, linoleic acid 9%, tannins Medium-light oil and easily absorbed. Medium-Fast absorption rate. Irritated, inflamed, broken, sensitive and dry skin as well as mature skin months depending on the chemical composition and because that varies, it is best to check with your supplier. 23 Easily absorbed by the skin, softening and moisturizing with good cell regenerating properties and is a good anti-inflammatory agent. It is a lighter oil than avocado and olive which also have high content of oleic acid so it can be used instead when you want the same (similar) qualities but with a lighter texture. The tannins provide a good astringent quality which is a good quality for mature and possibly also for oily skin. I d not use this for very oily or acne prone skin, just perhaps mildly oily - normal. Useful for after-sun products, nail products, skincare preparations for mature, dry, sensitive and damaged skin as well as in shampoos and hair care oils. Can be used in massage as well, but when blended with other longer oils. It is less sticky and lighter than olive or avocado but has similar properties.

24 Carrot Tissue Oil Helianthus annus (and) beta-carotene Infusing/macerating the tissue in another oil e.g. cold pressed sunflower oil 24 Fatty Acid Profile: Palmitic acid 16%, 2% stearic acid, linoleic acid 60%, linolenic acid 5% Vitamin A This will depend on what base was used to macerate. Sunflower is the main one used and the absorption rate is fast. Check with the supplier. Dry, damaged, sensitive and aging skin. Check the shelf life with your supplier because it will depend on the shelf life of the oil used to macerate. Usually approximately 1 year. Macerated in another oil most commonly sunflower oil which means you get the benefits of both oils together in one. Useful in after-sun products, anti-aging solutions and skincare preparations especially for dry skin Suitable for damaged, sensitive and dry skin. Improves skin cell regeneration and barrier repair, softens and smoothes the skin moisturizes it and helps to alleviate inflammation. Use in lower dilution because it will change the colour of the liquid and potentially, if used in large quantities, the skin!

25 Evening Primrose Oil Oenothera biennis Cold pressing the seeds 25 Fatty Acid Profile: Palmitic acid 6-7%, stearic acid 1-3%, oleic acid 8-11%, linoleic acid 70-75%, GLA 8-11%, vitamin E Short and light oil. Fast absorption. All types especially oily and acne prone skin, sensitive and mature skin 6 months shelf life - 2 years with added vitamin E Evening primrose is a key source of GLA making this a valuable addition to skincare preparations. It has strong skin cell regeneration, anti wrinkle, softening & smoothing qualities and because it is rich in GLA (an omega 6 fatty acid), it helps skin retain moisture. Very good for neck and face preparations and for the treatment of specific skin conditions e.g. sensitive skin, eczema and psoriasis, acne / spots, and cuts and wounds. It is also very good alongside macadamia in anti-aging skincare preparations to smooth wrinkles and fine lines, lift saggy skin, and improve dark shadows and a tired complexion.

26 Kiwi Seed Oil Fatty Acid Profile: Actinidia chinensis / deliciosa Cold pressing the seeds Palmitic acid 5%, stearic acid 3%, oleic acid 11%, linoleic acid 15%, alpha linolenic acid 60-65%, 80% Vitamin F (omega 3 & 6), vitamin E Thin dry oil, easily absorbed by the skin. Fast-Medium absorption rate. All skin types especially sensitive, damaged, infected, oily or acne prone skin 6 month shelf life - adding vitamin E will prolong the shelf life for up to 2 years 26 A rich source of essential fatty acids and vitamins E and F boost cell regeneration, improve skin barrier repair, lock in moisture and encourage greater hydration of the skin cells. Kiwi seed oil is excellent in skincare preparations which help to heal the skin and combat specific conditions including, but not limited to, eczema, psoriasis, cuts, wounds, inflammation and soreness as well as acne or spots. Its hydrating, moisturizing, regenerating and replenishing qualities make kiwi seed oil a must have for anti-aging skincare products especially because it is thin, light and easily absorbed by the skin. It s moisturizing and hydrating qualities make it a good choice for dry skin and the fact that it is a dry oil also means it can be useful for oily skin - it is absorbed quickly, helps the removal of dirt, grease and grime and feeds the skin cells with nutrients that are required. This also encourages a glowing complexion.

27 27 Kukui Nut Oil Aleurites moluccana Cold pressing the nut Fatty Acid Profile: Palmitic acid 6%, stearic acid 0.3%, oleic acid 20%, palmitoleic acid 0.1%, linoleic acid 42%, linolenic acid 29% Contraindications: Light oil. Fast absorption rate. Sensitive, irritated, inflamed, damaged and chapped skin 6-8 months - add vitamin E oil to prolong the shelf life. Avoid if suffer from a nut allergy Kukui nut moisturizes the skin, softens it, and locks in water which helps to maintain good hydration levels Improves the barrier repair function and skin cell regeneration properties making it extremely good for mature or aging skin and anti-wrinkle preparations as well as for the treatment of irritated or inflamed skin such as eczema, psoriasis, sunburn and radiation burns.

28 Meadow Foam Oil Limnanthes alba Cold pressing the seeds 28 Fatty Acid Profile: Eicosenoic acid 62%, erucic acid 16%, docosadienoic acid 17% Thick, fatty and heavy oil. Fast absorption rate. Dry, damaged, chapped, cracked and aging skin 1 year An emollient and a fast penetrating oil - one of the fastest - due to the small molecules that make up the oil. Non-greasy feel to the skin and extremely good fatty and moisturizing oil for those with dry, damaged, chapped, broken or over-worked skin that may also be exposed to weather and the outside environment e.g. hands & lips. This could be a suitable oil for gardeners and construction workers. Helps to heal bruises, reduce wrinkles and delay the signs of aging due to incredible penetrating, thick, fatty & emollient qualities Its a more expensive oil and with that in mind it s best to use it in lower dilution e.g. 5-15% of your formulation.

29 Squalane (Olive) Fatty Acid Profile: Squalane (Olive) Unknown Light oil. Fast absorption rate. All skin types, oily, dry, sensitive and mature 2 years 29 Our skin s natural lubricant is called sebum and approximately 10-15% of that is squalane. As we grow older, we produce less squalane and finding a way of replacing it is very helpful. Olive squalane is very similar to our own so it is just about the perfect solution. It penetrates the skin very quickly and very deeply, improves elasticity and moisturizes It has cytophylactic qualities which boost skin cell regeneration and skin barrier repair function helping to keep the skin feeling soft, smooth and provides a glowing complexion. As an emollient it softens and smooths the skin and as a humectant it attracts water from the surrounding area to the skin which helps to keep it hydrated and nourished. Excellent for anti-aging skincare preparations; reduction of fine lines and dark shadows, tired and grey looking skin. It leaves a very silky feeling on the skin and as great in serums as an alternative to silicones. Great in face creams, eye creams, lip balms and glosses as well as facial serums.

30 Pomegranate Oil Fatty Acid Profile: Punica granatum Cold pressing the seeds Palmitic acid 2%, stearic acid 1-2%, oleic acid 5-6%, linoleic acid 7%, punicic acid 70-75% Light oil. Medium absorption rate. Dry, damaged, chapped, sensitive and mature skin 12 months - add vitamin E oil to increase the shelf life 30 A good anti-inflammatory agent that also possesses good antimicrobial qualities, pomegranate seed oil is very useful in all kinds of irritated skin conditions from wounds and cuts, to burns and sunburns. With strong hydrating, skin cell regenerating, softening and moisturizing qualities is excellent in the treatment of mature, aging, dry and chapped skin and it may also help to smooth wrinkles and delay the signs of aging. It is a very expensive oil but can be very effective so perhaps its best to use it as 5-15% of your entire formulation.

31 Raspberry Seed Oil Rubus idaeus Cold pressing the seeds 31 Fatty Acid Profile: Palmitic acid 1-4%, stearic acid 2%, oleic acid 10-14%, linoleic acid 50-62%, linolenic acid 21-29% Vitamin E Light, dry, thin and long oil. Medium-Slow absorption rate. Dry, dehydrated, sensitive and aging/mature skin 6 months - add vitamin E to prolong the shelf life High content of linoleic acid and vitamin E (antioxidant) means that raspberry seed oil improvs the skin s natural defenses and barrier repair function. Moisture is locked in reducing trans-epidermal water loss, leading to hydrated, soft and moisturized skin. Excellent for sensitive, dry, dehydrated and mature skin because it forms a lipid barrier protecting the skin from the external environment and locking in moisture. Improves elasticity, softness, suppleness and flexibility of the skin helping to smooth out fine lines, wrinkles and sagging skin.

32 32 Rose Hip Oil Rosa rubiginosa Cold pressing the rose hips Fatty Acid Profile: Palmitic acid 3-8%, stearic acid 2%, oleic acid 13-19%, plamitoleic acid 1%, eicosenic acid 1%, linoleic acid 44-48%, alpha linolenic acid 25-36%. Vitamin A (tretinoin) Vitamin E, vitamin F (omega 3 & 6) Light and dry oil. Fast absorption rate All skin types especially mature, sensitive, oily skin and damaged skin 6 months shelf life years with added vitamin E Rosehip is the only vegetable oil to naturally contain tretinoin (a form of vitamin A) which helps to repair damaged skin and scars, alleviate acne, and reduce wrinkles. It is also a fantastic natural source of essential fatty acids (omega 3 and 6 - vitamin F) which assist with skin regeneration, repair and healing. Rosehip is therefore one of the best oils to use, on its own or in blends, for healing specific skin conditions such as burns, cuts, wounds, damage following radiation therapy, acne prone skin, skin with larger pores, eczema and psoriasis. It is also one of the best anti-aging oils and helps to smooth wrinkles, soften and hydrate the skin, alleviating the immediate signs of aging.

33 Sea Buckthorn Oil Fatty Acid Profile: Hippophae rhamnoides Cold pressing the seeds and the pulp Palmitic acid 35%, stearic acid 1%, oleic acid 10%, plamitoleic acid 36%, linoleic acid 1%, nervonic acid 1%. Vitamin E Thick and fatty oil. Medium-Fast absorption rate. All skin types - dry, oily, sensitive and mature 1 year 33 Improves skin barrier function and repair, regenerates skin cells, reduces trans-epidermal water loss, retains moisture, softens and smoothes the skin which make it an excellent aid in the healing of wounds and cuts, softening of hard tissue, smoothing out of fine lines and wrinkles, hydrating and moisturizing both oily and dry skin without leaving a greasy layer. An anti-inflammatory and anti-microbial agent that combats dry, sensitive, infected and irritated patches of skin make it useful for just about any skin complaint as well as type - eczema, psoriasis, dermatitis, ringworm, athlete s foot, acne. Sea Buckthorn has also demonstrated strong qualities for healing burns, sunburn, burn from a heat source (fire) as well as radiation burns. Could be used to good effect with Rosehip, Kukui Nut, and Rice Bran Oil here. It contains good antioxidant properties which make it an important part of maintaining a youthful complexion by fighting against free radicals and delaying the signs of aging. Its an expensive oil, with a strong colour and odour so best used in small amounts, 1-10% of a blend.

34 Thistle Oil Carthamus tinctorius Cold pressing the seeds 34 Fatty Acid Profile: Palmitic acid 5-8%, stearic acid 2-3%, oleic acid 12-18%, linoleic acid 70-81%, alpha linolenic acid 1% Vitamin E Light, dry, rough and medium oil. Fast absorption rate. Oily or acne prone skin, damaged inflamed or sensitive skin 2 years Very high amount of linoleic acid and omega 6 essential fatty acid mean that it is very easily absorbed by the skin, is extremely versatile and used in a variety of skincare preparations from creams, oils, serums, butters, gels, and lotions to balms and massage. Best blended with other fattier oils than used on its own due to roughness and dryness. Always add to long oils for massage and skincare preparations such as jojoba, apricot kernel, peach kernel, avocado or sweet almond oil. For the face blend with smoother oils such as coconut oil, rosehip and macadamia nut. Stimulates and boost circulation, helps to strengthen circulatory tissue especially in hands, fingers, feet, toes and legs. Will also help brittle nails Thistle helps to balance the skin and return it back to its normal state from either oily and acne prone or thin and fragile.

35 Avocado Butter Fatty Acid Profile: Butters & Waxes Persea gratissima Similar to avocado oil Rich, heavy and dry oil. Fast absorption rate. Dry, damaged, sensitive and aging skin 2 years 35 It is a very rich, moisturizing butter that can be a little heavy so it s advisable to consider using it in small amounts or with other butters to harden your product. Moisturizing and softening, it improves barrier repair function, forms a thin layer on the surface to keep moisture locked in and attract water from the surrounding area helping to keep the skin hydrated. Rich in vitamins and minerals that are antioxidants helping to soften and smooth the skin and delay the signs of aging. The butter melts at 30-35C and is smooth and creamy when applied

36 Cocoa Butter Fatty Acid Profile: Theobroma cacao Palmitic acid 25-30%, stearic acid 30-35%, oleic acid 34-36% and linoleic acid 3%, tannins Vitamin E Thick and fatty butter. Fast-Medium absorption rate. Dry, chapped, cracked, broken and normal skin 2-5 years 36 A very good occlusive forming a protective layer and locking in moisture leading to better hydration and the oleic acid increases skin cell regeneration. Cocoa butter boosts the flexibility of the skin and improves the repair function all of which make cocoa butter a great ingredient to use for protection against weather and the outside environment. Useful for dry, chapped or cracked skin e.g. lips, hands and feet. Useful to use in a product where you need a little extra thickness of consistency e.g. lip balms because of the high stearic acid content (you could use cocoa butter instead of stearic acid to thicken lotions) Cocoa butter melts at around 34-38C High vitamin E content softens and smoothes the skin and as an antioxidant helps the system to fight off free radicals which can cause signs of ageing. Has a pleasant light chocolate aroma. A deodorized version is also available.

37 Mango Butter 37 Fatty Acid Profile: Mangifera indica Palmitic acid 6%, stearic acid 42%, oleic acid 46%, linoleic acid 3%, tannins. Vitamin A, B and C Light and easily absorbed. Fast-Medium absorption rate. Normal to oily skin 2-3 years Increases moisture retention, as an occlusive it forms a protective layer that reduces trans-epidermal water loss Improves the flexibility and elasticity of the skin It has strong antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, anti-viral, antibacterial and anti-fungal properties which soften the skin, fight off free radicals, heal and nourish the skin combating irritations, inflammations and infections speeding up the recovery and repair process. Despite it being a butter the tannins offer astringent qualities and it melts on contact with the skin which make it good for normal - oily skin; therefore, not the best butter to use in lotion bars. We normally associate butters with some oily, thick and fatty, but mango butter is much thinner, lighter and very easily absorbed. Mango butter melts at around 35-43C

38 Olive Butter 38 Fatty Acid Profile: Olea europa Similar to olive oil Thick and heavy oil. Fast-Medium absorption rate Dry, sensitive, irritated and aging skin Up to 3 years Olive butter is thicker than the oil but still easily absorbed by the skin and is also easy to spread across the skin; useful for massage and for skincare preparations. As an emollient and a butter that contains high content of antioxidants, it is useful at delaying the signs of aging, softening and moisturizing for the skin. The properties of olive butter are very similar to that of olive oil; emollient, humectant, moisturizing and hydrating, boosts barrier repair function, soothes irritated and inflamed skin, alleviates dryness by reducing trans-epidermal water loss. Mimics the skin s natural sebum helping to reduce oily skin whilst also helping to moisturize and hydrate dry skin

39 Shea Butter 39 Fatty Acid Profile: Butyrospermum parkii Palmitic acid 6%, stearic acid 10%, oleic acid 70%, palmitoleic acid 1%, linoleic acid 12%, alpha linolenic acid <1% Vitamin E Thick fatty and long oil. Fast-Medium absorption rate. Dry, damaged, cracked, chapped and sensitive skin. Baby skin and black skin too. 2 years Excellent moisturizing agent that melts on contact with the skin, protects against water loss and outside weathering (sun, snow, rain and wind), boosts the protective layer & barrier repair function of the skin. Locks in water and sucks moisture in from around the skin to hydrate, moisturize, soften and smooth dry, dehydrated and damaged skin. Wonderful emollient qualities and its fattiness provide good protection from the dryness in hot sunny climates Contains vast amounts of vitamin E which is an antioxidant helping to soften the skin. Regenerating properties help to alleviate stretchmarks, fine lines, wrinkles, eczema, psoriasis, rashes, chapped, cracked & broken skin. Shea butter melts at body temperature Anti-inflammatory agents help to heal wounds, scars, cuts and sores.

40 Almond Wax 40 Prunus dulcis Not absorbed by the skin. Dry, chapped and cracked skin 3 years Almond wax is not absorbed by the skin and instead forms a protective layer on the surface helping to avoid damage from weathering and the outside world e.g. cold and hot weather. As an occlusive it helps to reduce trans-epidermal water loss keeping the skin hydrated and moisturized. It is also a humectant that draws moisture in from the surrounding area which also adds to the skin s soft, supple, moisturized and hydrated texture. It is not an emulsifier, despite what you find online, but it is a good thickening agent that is used in oils, butters and balms. Very good for lip balms and glosses and hot cloth cleansing balms. Melting point is 60C A fantastic substitute for beeswax that provides a vegan option. Great for lip balms and glosses, hot cloth cleansing balms, lotion bars and body butters as well as nail care products and candles.

41 Beeswax 41 Cera flava Thick, viscous and fatty. Not absorbed by the skin. Dry, chapped and cracked skin 4-5 years Beeswax is not absorbed by the skin and instead forms a protective layer on the surface helping to avoid damage from weathering and the outside world e.g. cold and hot weather. As an occlusive it helps to reduce trans-epidermal water loss keeping the skin hydrated and moisturized. It is also a humectant that draws moisture in from the surrounding area which also adds to the skin s soft, supple, moisturized and hydrated texture. It is not an emulsifier, despite what you find online, but it is a good thickening agent that is used in oils, butters and balms. Very good for lip balms and glosses, hot cloth cleansing balms, body butters, lotion bars, nail care products and candles. Melting point is 50-60C

42 Candelilla Wax 42 Euphorbia cerifera Thick, viscous and fatty. Not absorbed by the skin Dry, chapped and cracked skin 4-5 years Candelilla is a good vegan option for those who prefer not to use beeswax because it comes from a small shrub Like beeswax it is not absorbed by the skin and instead forms a protective layer on the surface helping to avoid damage from weathering and the outside world e.g. cold and hot weather. As an occlusive it helps to reduce trans-epidermal water loss keeping the skin hydrated and moisturized. It is also a humectant that draws moisture in from the surrounding area which also adds to the skin s soft, supple, moisturized and hydrated texture. It is not an emulsifier, despite what you find online, but it is a good thickening agent that is used in oils, butters and balms. Very good for lip balms and glosses, hot cloth cleansing balms, body butters, lotion bars, nail care products and candles. Melting point is 70C

43 Jojoba Wax 43 Simmondsia chinensis Very slow absorption rate and only small amounts are absorbed by the skin. Dry, damaged, chapped and cracked skin. 3-5 years Jojoba wax is a good vegan option for those who prefer not to use beeswax Like beeswax it forms a protective layer on the surface helping to avoid damage from weathering and the outside world e.g. cold and hot weather. As an occlusive it helps to reduce trans-epidermal water loss keeping the skin hydrated and moisturized. It is also a humectant that draws moisture in from the surrounding area which also adds to the skin s soft, supple, moisturized and hydrated texture. It is not an emulsifier, despite what you find online, but it is a good thickening agent that is used in oils, butters and balms. Very good for lip balms and glosses, hot cloth cleansing balms, body butters, lotion bars, nail care products and candles. Melting point is 65C Very good for lip balms and glosses, hot cloth cleansing balms, body butters, lotion bars, nail care products and candles. Jojoba wax is also particularly useful in hair care products.