Sarbetagh; a Sustainable Underground Architecture for Development of Tourism Industry in City of Dezful in Iran

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1 Abstract Sarbetagh; a Sustainable Underground Architecture for Development of Tourism Industry in City of Dezful in Iran Mohammad Mahdi Safaee M. A. in Architecture, Academic Member of Islamic Azad University (IAU), South Tehran Branch, Iran Safaee@cectd.com Water always has been one of the most important matters for survival of the human beings. Iranian native architects have created a lot of innovations to utilize water. One kind of these sustainable architectural innovations that has been developed in underground is called Sarbetagh-Ghomesh. 1 These spaces have remained idle for many years under the ground of Dezful city. These underground networks furnished Dezful city water system, when the city lacked piping water system. The Dezz river water pass through the canals called Ghomeshes. The Ghomeshes brought water from the upper regions of Dezz River to the city and people used the river water from underground spaces called Sarbetagh. This article explains how these underground spaces influence life of the inhabitants in Dezful and shows and suggests how we can use the remains of these attractive places again. It also emphasizes that how we can have access to a sustainable architecture and tourism via rehabilitation of these old and ancient places. Keywords: Dezful, Dezz River, Tourism, Ghomesh, Sarbetagh, Sustainable underground architecture 1. Introduction Khuzestan province in ancient time was one of the developed provinces. Passing of Karoon, Karkheh and Dezz rivers through this province and the dams and water mills, which were built on them by Sassanid dynasty 2, caused the province of Khuzestan to become one of the most developed agricultural provinces of Iran in those days. Creativity and innovation of the Iranian architects of the old times in harnessing of the running water of the rivers was very developed for its time, on which many researches have been done by scientists. From 1890 to 1895 one Dutch scientist called Graant Van Roggan was studying these creativities in Iran. 3 Mr. Roggan prepared the maps for Ghomeshes and Sarbetaghs. We did our best to find the maps but they were out of reach. The need for irrigation of the agricultural lands, which were higher than the level of Dezz River and the need for clean drinking water made the Dezful s architects create this outstanding innovation. This caused the river water from higher parts of the river divert into the Ghomeshes and through them flow to Sarbetaghs in the city. Therefore the inhabitants of the city and the agricultural lands could use fresh water. Using this method was very popular in city of Dezful before water pumps were introduced into the market and city water piping system became practical in At the present time there are still some ruined and conglomerated networks of Ghomeshes exist in the depth of old part city of Dezful. If more attention is paid to these sites and after they are repaired, reconstructed and rehabilitated, and according to the natural potential, especially by assimilating with the existence conditions of Dezz river and its surrounding, this area can be changed to a tourism place and more sport funs 4 and sight seers can be attracted. (Figure 1) 1 There is another underground space which is called Shavadan and its structure is like Sarbetagh. Some of the subjects of this article is an adaption of the article on Shavadan; The sustainable Architecture in the city of Dezful in Iran by Mohammad Mehdi Safaee, ACUUS 2009, China, Shenzen 2 Sassanid Kings were living from 224 AD to 651 AD in Iran. 3 Enayatollah, R. (1971). Water and irrigation technology in ancient Persia. Tehran, Iran. 4 Boating in narrow and cave-like directions is really suitable for this place.

2 Figure 1: Natural potential of Dezz River and its surrounding 2. History of Sarbetagh Based on the researches, Graant Van Roggan relates the irrigation canals of Khuzestan to the period of king Shapour 1 st 5 ( AD), and also Roggan calculated 3400 years of age for one of these canals. 6 Therefore it is probable that methods of building Ghomesh remained from that time until now. There also exists a document which reveals that in the year of 1669 AD the Aslan Abad Ghomesh 7 was built and endowed. 8 Sarbetaghs and Ghomeshes had been used before Dezful city piping system was built in After piping system became functional, they were closed in 1980, then they reopend to be used as a bomb shelter during the war between Iraq and Iran from 1980 to 1988, and after that they were closed by the police for security reasons and ever since they have remained as ruins. (Figure 2) Figure 2: Remains of a Sarbetagh 3. Geographical and Ecological Situation of Dezful City City of Dezful is located in the province of Khuzestan, in south-west of Iran in +32º, 25 latitude and +48º, 25 eastward longitude according to Greenwich meantime (GMT). This city is on the 5 Shapour 1 st was the second Sassanid King of the Second Persian Empire 6 Enayatollah, R. (1971). Water and irrigation technology in ancient Persia. Tehran, Iran. 7 This Ghomesh was one of the most important, and tallest of them. It was 23 km. and started from a region called Tale Khani and finished to agricultural lands of the city. 8 This document is available in endowment office of Dezful. 2

3 eastern coast of Dezz river and South-west of Zagros chain of mountains. Behind this region (Dezful) is Zagros chain of mountains and before it lies the plains of Khuzestan which extend as far as Persian Gulf. 9 (Figure 3) Figure 3: Geographical situation of Dezful This city was built on a type of Conglomerate with elevation of Dezz river surface and the river in has always had clear and cold running water from Zagros chain of mountains. (Figure 4) Figure 4: Conglomerate stone The level of Dezful s subterranean is low and this gives rise to the formation and expansion of these underground spaces. City of Dezful is 140 meters above the sea level and its elevation from Dezz River is from 2 to 30 meters. 4. Description of Sarbetagh Sarbetagh was an underground space dug under the old parts of city of Dezful. Its depth, depends on the location of the city was about 30 meters, which can be reached by many stairs. According to the geotechnical specifications of the soil in Dezful area, Sarbetagh is an underground space in the depth of ground and lacks structural materials. In each neighborhood of Dezful was a Sarbetagh, and people of that neighborhood used the clean and fresh water of the Dezz River by going down from that Sarbetagh. Fresh and clean water flowed from higher places to the city through tunnels called Ghomesh, and the flowing water of Ghomeshes irrigated agricultural lands in the south part of the city and the rest of that entered the river. Thus a network of main and subsidiary Ghomeshes flowed fresh and clean water of Dezz River under the city. (Figure 5) 9 Article on Shavadan; The sustainable Architecture in the city of Dezful in Iran by Mohammad Mehdi Safaee, ACUUS 2009, China, Shenzen 3

4 Figure 5: Diagram of Sarbetaghs and Ghomeshes There is not enough information on the exact number of Ghomeshes and Sarbetaghs, but at the present time, this network exists in form of untouched, ruined and half-ruined, all of which lie under the old part of city of Dezful. The surface of this section is 280 hectares, which is completely active today and forms the city center and Dezful s old bazaar. Many residential sections closed the entrances of Sarbetaghs and disconnected the underground connection and therefore used the ground spaces for residential purposes. The old timers in Dezful city used these God-given conditions such as Shavadan, tried to transfer part of their living besides the ground surface to underground surfaces. People rushed to these Sarbetaghs to get clean water from it and in hot summer days Sarbetaghs were used as a resting place. The effective factors in formation of Sarbetaghs and Ghomeshes: The city s high elevation in relation to the rivers. Suitable earth composition of the city of Dezful for excavation. The possibility of utilizing the slope of the earth. The low level of underground waters in the city of Dezful. The usage of Sarbetagh and Ghomesh Easy access for using the Dezz river water by developing Ghomesh network and foundation of different Sarbetaghs in the city. Irrigation of agricultural lands in levels higher than river. Using Sarbetagh spaces as a suitable space in hot days. Reasons for the destruction of Ghomeshes and Sarbetaghs Construction of piping for city water and easy access of people to drinking water. Using modern system of irrigation and introducing pumps to markets. Construction of Dezz dam and decrease in the level of the river water in the year Increasing social safety and preventing the petty city crimes. 5. Parts of Sarbetagh and Ghomesh Constructing Sarbetagh is similar to Shavadan, but Sarbetaghs were constructed in a lower level than Shavadans. (Figure 6) Entrance Each Sarbetagh has an entrance which was usually in public places and was used for social communication of people of Dezful. 4

5 Stairs Figure 6: Diagram of Dezful s town section Pela 10 are connecting parts of Sarbetaghs and in some Sarbetaghs the number of these stairs reaches 100. Pelapam is a wide surface which is used as a foot-rest between some stairs, and reaches the main hall in Sarbetaghs. The deep Sarbetaghs could have more than two Pelapams; some of these foot-rests have exits which lead to other Underground spaces which were called Kats. The main hall Figure 7: Plan of Sarbetagh and Ghomesh Main hall is a place which stairs end to it, and connects to a small pond, which was place to wash and take water from. Since the soil of Dezful has been conglomerate, therefore it was possible to build big halls. These gave builders freedom to build more spaces without building extra structure. Small rooms (Kats) 11 There are some small rooms attached to the Pelapams or main hall, which are called Kats. These are to be considered more private parts in Sarbetagh. Each Sarbetagh consists of more Kats 10 Pela in Dezfuly language means stairs. 11 There are two meanings in this Dezfuly word: a: means small rooms which are attached to the main hall or foot-rest b: small caves which were excavated by hands in the edge of the river and were suitable places for resting and entertainment 5

6 depending on its largeness, depth and the number of Pelas. These rooms were suitable places of resting in hot summer days. Pond The ponds 12 were places for collecting clear and clean water from which people took water they needed. The pond was the lowest part of Sarbetaghs and connection between the pounds and Sarbetaghs was through Ghomeshes. People of Dezful collected fresh water from these ponds. Entrance of Ghomeshe Figure 8: Parts of Sarbetagh In the Entrance of Ghomeshes clean and clear water from Ghomeshes entered into the ponds and went out from the other side. (Figure 9) Figure 9: Entrance of Ghomes 12 Ponds in Dezfully language are called Howz 6

7 Main entrence Main entrance of Ghomesh which is called Dardooneh was the beginning location of Ghomesh. It starts from a region called Tale Khani, which is in the 24 kilometers of the north of Dezful city. Ventilator 13 There were some vertical canals called Derizeh that ventilated the air of all spaces of Sarbetagh. Besides ventilation, these vertical canals were used to pump out the mud and the dust. They used the ventilators on the Ghomeshes. (Figure 10) Figure 10: Ventilator 6. Conclusion Although the underground structures of Dezful have somehow played effective roles on the life of this old city, but with the improvement of technology this role became less important. Ecological condition and the kind of soil have caused continuous excavation for years. At the present time the precious remains in the form of ruins and half remnants have been forgotten, and by development and improvement of the city reaching these remnants have become more difficult. On the other hand development of tourism industry and the attention of world which has been paid to the understanding of civilizations and coordination for earning more income have become an important goal for governments. Among all these, all the regions which have natural potential and architecture which have somehow remained from the past and old ages have more chance to be visited. There are many Ghomeshes and Sarbetaghs which remain from the old time that can be revived and be prepared for tourists. This can also revive tourism industry in Dezful city; if it is given time to prepare them for tourists. 13 Ventilator is same as Derizeh. For more information refer to the article on Shavadan; The sustainable Architecture in the city of Dezful in Iran by Mohammad Mehdi Safaee, ACUUS 2009, China, Shenzen 7

8 At the present time the inhabitant of this region in different seasons when the weather conditions are favorable, they can do fishing, floating on tire tubes, boating and relaxing by the river bed. (Figure 11) If these potentials can be revived and renovated, and according to the special and unique ecological conditions and remains of old parts of Dezful, this city can be changed to a region with tourists attractions in the world. Figure 11: Different activities by the river bed 7. Reuse of Sarbetaghs Considering these existing evidences, and giving a new identity to these old spaces and deviating from the Dezz River and renovating some of the old existing Sarbetaghs and Ghomeshes and other sub-structures such as Shavadans, a new tourism center can be formed. And around this center several tourist attractions can be established in underground strange places and other attractions such as boating, swimming, hotels, restaurants and special kind of Aqua Park can be made to attract tourists. As a result Dezful city with all these particular attractions such as water tunnels can be added to the world tourist attraction center. 8

9 References Books Enayatollah, R. "Water and irrigation technology in ancient Persia", (1971). Tehran, Iran. Ghobadian, V. "Climate analysis of the Iranian traditional building", (1998). Kasravi, A. "500-year history of Khuzestan" Tehran. Iran, (2007). Article Imam, M. Some article on Geographical history of Dezful, (2003). Safaee, M. Shavadan; The sustainable Architecture in the city of Dezful in Iran. ACUUS China, Shenzen 9