2. Be honest. 5. Keep competition in

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1 Riding and Showing The 4-H Horse Project 115

2 Ethics and Etiquette WHEN I COMPETE, The dictionary defines ethics as the study of human conduct, with emphasis on the determination of right and wrong. Ethics are concerned with voluntary actions; that is, the things you choose to do. The decisions you make regarding your horse and showing events affect how others view you, and reflect on your club, your county, and the 4-H Program as a whole. Be sure the decisions you make are ethical ones. To help determine whether what you are doing is ethical, ask yourself the following questions: Will I need to lie about this? Does this harm the horse? Is this against any rule? If someone were watching me, would I not do this? Does this misrepresent me or the horse? Would I be unhappy if someone did this to me? If the anwer to any of these questions is yes, don t do it. It is not ethical. To maintain your integrity and that of the 4-H Horse Program, follow these guidelines: 1. Obey the rules. Rules are made for a reason, and they are meant for everyone to follow. Don t look for loopholes or ways to bend or stretch the rules. Play fair. Be sure you know the rules of the show, your county, and your state. I have a performance goal never a goal only to beat someone else. I respect and learn from other competitors more skilled than myself. I don t criticize other competitors, officials, or judges. I do my best today. I have fun. I stay home if I can t follow the above rules. Adapted from a presentation by Doug Householder, Ph.D., Extension horse specialist, Texas A&M University, at the 1997 National Youth Horse Council Meeting 2. Be honest. Any time you have to lie, you are being unethical. Don t lie, and don t do anything that you would later want to lie about or hide. 3. Take proper care of your horse. Make sure your horse has adequate food, water, and shelter and keep it in good health with correct grooming, parasite control, vaccinations, foot and dental care, and basic safety. Proper care also means that you use humane training methods. Any mistreatment or abuse is unacceptable and will not be tolerated by the 4-H Program. 4. Demonstrate good sportsmanship. Good sportsmanship is a part of being ethical. Be gracious and courteous whether you win or lose. Help others who are in the competition with you. Don t run down other members, and don t blame the judge for your performance. Never blame your horse if you don t do well. Jerking on the reins or spurring the horse in anger are poor images to project of yourself and 4-H. Your attitude is important not only in the show ring, but in all aspects of life. 5. Keep competition in perspective. Winning is not the main goal. Rather, strive to do your best, to learn, and to grow. Compete against yourself and the course instead of other members. Have fun. If you don t enjoy what you are doing, maybe this isn t the right activity for you. 6. Maintain proper adult involvement. Remember that the main goal of 4-H is youth development. Parents and other adults are there to help and teach you, not to do your work. Help them to focus on what is best for all the kids and the program, not just on you. Do as much as you can yourself. 116 Riding and Showing The 4-H Horse Project

3 Warm-up Arena Etiquette At a horse show, you ll have opportunities to use warm-up space. The warm-up ring is usually overcrowded, so following these simple rules can help make it a safer and more beneficial place. All horses work in the same direction. Trainers, leaders, and helpers remain outside the arena. Don t mix longeing and riding in the same arena. Don t mix carts and mounted horses in the same arena. If you ride a mule, donkey, or pony, remember that some horses are not familiar with these kinds of animals and may be frightened. Be respectful and careful when warming up together. Don t cut others off into the rail or crowd the rail, moving others off. Communicate with those around you, especially if you are having trouble. Do not halt and/or back up without warning those around you. Keep two horses lengths between you and the horses to the side, front, and back. Be in control; if you re not, you re not ready to be there. Keep your language and comments appropriate. The 4-H Code of Conduct applies at all times. If your horse has a tendency to kick, put a red ribbon in its tail. In the Show Ring Remember that all contestants are doing their best to be seen by the judge. Be respectful of the riders around you. Adhere to the same guidelines in the show ring as in the warm-up arena, and add the following: Don t try to squeeze into a space in line where there isn t space. Don t be afraid to enter the arena first. When working a pattern, stay away from those who are lined up whenever possible. Be ready and waiting for the judge s signal for you to begin. Wait for the judge to acknowledge you before you begin your pattern and before returning to line when you finish your pattern, unless the judge requests otherwise. Be sure your exhibitor number is clearly visible. If you are too close to another exhibitor, don t hesitate to circle safely and find your own space on the rail. Do not dismount in riding classes. Ask a steward or judge for permission if you want to be excused. Be sure your horse is prepared for the horse show environment (clapping, chairs moving, people climbing bleachers, and so on). The 4-H Horse Project Riding and Showing 117

4 Choosing a Qualified Riding Instructor/Trainer Finding the perfect riding instructor is not an easy task! The right instructor helps you become a safe, confident handler and rider, no matter which discipline you choose. Two of the most important elements of riding are safety and fun. If either of these is missing, then you have the wrong instructor. It is worth the time and energy to find the right trainer/instructor so you can be safe and successful. Before you begin your search for an instructor, decide what your goals are, both for yourself and your horse. You also must decide which discipline or type of riding you want to pursue: English or Western. English includes jumping, hunt seat, saddle seat, dressage, and eventing. Western offers pleasure, stock seat, Western games, reining, cutting, and others. Determine what your best learning environment is. Some instructors have a busy, active barn; others a quieter, laid-back atmosphere. Also, you can choose group or private lessons. Some people like having other riders around them who have the same goals. Others like to have the instructor s undivided attention. Find an instructor who really understands horses and is experienced in your chosen discipline. An instructor must have people skills as well as horsemanship abilities and must be able to help students achieve their goals. Not all good trainers are good instructors. A good instructor must not only understand the horse and the chosen discipline, he or she must also know how to teach. To begin your search for a riding instructor, ask friends, local horse clubs, 4-H leaders, veterinarians, and farriers for referrals. Talk to other horse owners and find out which instructors have worked well for them. Check with riders currently learning from an instructor to find out about his or her ability to teach and train. Also, try the Yellow Pages or a Horseman s Directory. Follow the guidelines below when searching for an instructor. Personality Is it easy for you to talk to this instructor about yourself and your horse s needs? Does he or she answer your questions in words that you can understand? Is the instructor s personality a good match for yours? Discuss lesson programs, student goals, and riding styles with the instructor. Facilities Don t just telephone barns visit them. Make sure you check an instructor s stable and other facilities to see whether the environment is safe and clean. Walk around and look at the conditions that you and your horse will be working in. A good facility s upkeep reflects the owner/instructor s sense of pride. Safety is paramount. A good teaching facility has a firm helmet rule: everyone is required to wear a helmet when mounted, including the instructor. Don t accept the excuse that a professional doesn t need a helmet. This is not a correct message to give to students. Observe the Instructor Watch the instructor give a lesson. This will give you valuable insight into the instructor s methods and style, and save you considerable time and money in the long run. Are you comfortable with the instructor s teaching style? An instructor who screams at students, berates them, or is condescending is not the one you want! If an instructor will not allow you to watch a few lessons before making a decision, you may want to look elsewhere. Reputation Does this instructor have a good reputation among peers and other horse people? What do the instructor s current students think? Talk to these people and find out. Location Decide how far you are willing to travel to get lessons. Is the instructor s facility within that range? Some instructors will consider coming to your place. Find out if this is a possibility. 118 Riding and Showing The 4-H Horse Project

5 Cost Ask instructors how much they charge for a standard lesson, and decide whether you can afford their rates. Ask how long their standard lesson is. Most instructors give an hour lesson, but some may go only 45 minutes; make sure you are getting what you pay for. Also, check to see if they give group lessons, as they may be less expensive. References Ask for written references, and then check them. A good instructor/trainer is happy to supply you with several references. If he or she will not or cannot give you references, move on. Be sure you feel comfortable with all arrangements you make with the instructor. It is your responsibility to make sure you get your time and money s worth, and that the instructor upholds his or her end of the agreement. The 4-H Horse Project Riding and Showing 119

6 Showmanshi p The purpose of showmanship is to teach courtesy, good grooming, poise, confidence, and how to fit, train, and handle your horse. Showmanship is a demonstration of the member s ability to show the animal to its best advantage at halter. The animal s conformation is not considered. Your horse should be well-groomed, clean, and clipped according to breed. The horse also should be well-trained to the required routine and well-mannered, so that it stands quietly and alertly while in the class. Practice leading, turning, stopping, backing, and setting up your horse. Practice often for short periods of time. Five minutes a day is better than 1 hour, once a week. A properly trained horse will walk, trot, stop, back, set up, and turn with forward motion all with little or no pull on the lead. chain under chin chain over nose View from off (right) side with snap facing out Equipment The 4-H Horse Contest Guide (PNW 574) explains in detail the proper tack and equipment to use in showmanship. The tack you use to show your horse should be clean and properly adjusted. If you show in hunt or saddle seat attire, you may show with a halter or show bridle. If you show with a double bridle, you may use either the snaffle or curb reins for leading. Put the other set of reins over the horse s neck near the withers. When you show in Western attire, you may use a halter of leather, web, or rope. The lead should be 6 to 10 feet long. No matter which halter or bridle you use, make sure that it fits properly and has a throatlatch. If used properly, lead shanks with chains attached are permissible for safety or control. The chain may be run through the ring on the side of the halter or through the ring on the bottom, then over the nose or under the chin to the other side. With a very long chain, you may run the excess up the off cheek. If your chain is too long, you may double it back through the bottom ring and snap it back to itself. In all cases, the snap should face out. When leading your horse, do not put your hand on the chain. A chain approximately 15 to 24 inches is long enough. Don t yank or jerk on the lead shank, especially if you have a chain under your horse s jaw or over its nose. A chain is a poor substitute for good training. Be sure you practice with your show equipment at home before you use it at a show. 1. Crown directly behind the ear 2. Noseband halfway between eye and nostril 3. Chin strap 1 1½" below jaw 4. Throatlatch not snug but no looser than 1" 2 proper halter adjustment Riding and Showing The 4-H Horse Project

7 Attire The correct attire for showmanship is clearly defined in the 4-H Horse Contest Guide (PNW 574). Choose clothes in colors and styles that are comfortable for you. Be sure your clothes always are clean and well maintained. To add extra spark, choose clothes that compliment the horse as well as yourself. Attitude To be successful in showmanship, you must have a correct and positive attitude. (Remember that attitude is scored.) You should convey to the judge that you are proud of yourself and your horse. The first minute or two of a member s entrance into the ring tells the judge more than you can imagine. Always be alert, cheerful, bright, and smiling without being fake or overdone. If the horse does not respond promptly or begins lagging, reach around behind you and tap the horse s hindquarters with the whip to encourage it to move forward. A whip is also useful in teaching a horse to trot beside you. A verbal cluck helps teach a horse to obey. The horse will soon understand that this is a signal to move forward. Be sure you practice leading from both the near and off sides of your horse. A judge may ask older members to lead from either side at the walk or trot. lead on the left side Showmanship Maneuvers There are several maneuvers that the judge can request in showmanship patterns. Maneuvers should appear effortless and seamless, one move blending with the next. Points are deducted if a maneuver is not done correctly. You need to understand exactly what is expected for all movements and how to teach your horse to do them. holding the lead shank Leading The most basic showmanship maneuver is leading the horse correctly. When leading, you should walk ear-to-ear with the horse and about an arm s length from the horse s side. The horse should not lag behind you or surge in front of you. Look where you are going, not back at the horse or down at the ground. Hold the lead shank 8 to 18 inches from the halter with the excess lead shank folded in a figure eight. When leading from the near side, the lead is in your right hand and the excess in your left hand. When leading from the off side, the lead is in your left hand and the excess in your right hand. Never coil the lead, and do not fasten it with a rubber band in a figure eight. The horse needs to move briskly beside you and travel in a straight line. To teach a horse that does not lead alertly alongside you or tries to lag behind, carry a long whip for a few days and use it to teach the horse to move forward. Holding the whip in your left hand, ask the horse to walk. correct hold for lead The 4-H Horse Project Riding and Showing 121

8 Backing When a pattern calls for a back, the horse should promptly back the requested distance in a straight line. Four steps is considered one length, counting the steps of the front feet. A half-step at the end of the back to even the feet is not counted as a step. At the end of the back, the front feet should be within half a hoof s length of being even. Be sure you back the proper number of steps. To teach a horse to back, give the horse the command Back. Then apply pressure on the nose with the halter using light tugs. Avoid a steady pull. At the same time, push on the point of the shoulder with a whip handle or short stick. The instant the horse responds, reward it by releasing the pressure. At first, ask for just one back step at a time. As the horse responds correctly, ask for more steps. To teach the horse to back straight, back it along a fence, wall, or barn aisle. Turns Most patterns use degrees to tell you how far you need to turn. One-quarter turn = 90 degrees Half turn = 180 degrees Three-quarter turn = 270 degrees Full turn = 360 degrees The direction of the turn is the direction the horse s head moves. Haunch turns In a haunch turn, the horse pivots on its hindquarters with energy and impulsion. Properly done, a haunch turn must have forward motion, meaning the nonpivot hind foot moves around in front of the pivot foot. The pivot foot is the inside hind foot. When doing a right haunch turn, the right hind foot is the pivot foot. When doing a left haunch turn, the left hind foot is the pivot foot. Unless the turn is less than 90 degrees, always turn the horse away from you. Therefore, a right haunch turn is done from the near side of the horse. A left haunch turn is done from the off side of the horse. The horse has to learn to pivot on the correct hind leg and hold its pivot foot in position. To teach a right haunch turn, follow these steps: 1. Walk toward the horse s throatlatch and get the horse to move away from you with the horse s left front foot crossing over its right. Cluck or tap the horse s shoulder to get the horse moving. 2. Your hand needs to be a few inches from the halter to have control of the horse s head. Ask the horse to move slightly forward and around. Don t let the horse bend its neck; keep its body straight. 3. Lift the lead shank to transfer the horse s weight to its hocks, then go into the turn. Use the lead shank to guide the horse s head slightly forward and to the right, using your hand to tap the shoulder to move the horse away from pressure. 4. Just before the horse drops weight onto its left hind leg, move the horse forward one half-step to place weight on the right hind foot. Keep moving the horse and bring the the left foot forward. With practice, the horse will learn to pivot on its right hind foot and bring its left hind foot forward on its own. For a left haunch turn, repeat the above steps, reversing sides and directions. Remember that when you are in a showmanship class, you may not touch the horse during a haunch turn. Forehand turns In a forehand turn, the horse pivots on its forequarters. A forehand turn should be done with forward motion, not by backing around the pivot foot. The pivot foot is the inside front foot. When doing a left forehand turn, the left front foot is the pivot foot. The nose turns to the left and the hip swings to the right. In a right forehand turn, the right front foot is the pivot foot, and the horse s nose goes right with the hip swinging left. To perform a right forehand turn correctly, the handler must move to the off side of the horse. To teach a horse how to do a left forehand turn, follow these steps: 1. Facing the side of the horse, take the halter in the left hand to hold the head up. 2. With your right hand, touch the horse lightly about 4 inches behind the girth where the heel will act when you are mounted. At the same time, pull the horse s head slightly to the left. The horse will move its haunches to the right. 3. The left forefoot, acting as the pivot foot, may step up and down, but it should remain as nearly as possible in the same spot. The right leg must step around in front of the left. 4. Do not ask for too much of a turn to start with. Take only one or two steps, and then reward the horse by rubbing its neck. By adding a few steps at a time, the horse will eventually be able to make a complete 360-degree turn on the forehand. To teach a right forehand turn, repeat the above steps, reversing sides and directions. 122 Riding and Showing The 4-H Horse Project

9 The right foreleg acts as the pivot, and the left foreleg steps around in front of the right. In a showmanship class, you are allowed to touch your horse when asking for a forehand turn; still, you should strive to teach your horse to do this maneuver without having to touch it. Sidepassing Sidepassing is a maneuver in which the horse moves to the side with no forward motion. The forequarters and hindquarters should move together. The front foot on the side opposite the direction of travel must cross over in front of the other front foot. The hind feet should also cross over in front, but they can be brought side by side. Horses do not normally sidestep on their own. They must be taught to do this movement. First, make sure the horse knows how to do haunch turns and forehand turns. To sidepass to the right, stand on the near side of the horse and press on the neck and side at the same time. Concentrate on making this a forward motion with front and rear feet crossing over in front. To sidepass to the left, stand on the off side of the horse and repeat the motions. In a showmanship class, you may touch your horse when requesting a sidepass. However, as with forehand turns, try to teach your horse to do this without touching it. when you ask it to. Always lead the horse forward or back it into position. If your horse does not respond well when you are trying to set up its front feet, pick up the foot and move it into position or tap the foot you want to move with your toe. You must train the horse to set up properly on its own, though, because you may not touch the horse to set up during a showmanship class. As soon as the horse is set up correctly, release all pressure to let the horse know that it responded properly. Present the horse to the judge. Inspection and the Quartering System When the judge inspects the horse, you must respond promptly and correctly to the judge s movements around the horse. Use the quartering system. Mentally divide the horse into four quarters. When the judge is in one of the front quarters, you should stand on the opposite side of the horse from the judge. When the judge is in one of the hind quarters, you should stand on the same side of the horse as the judge. For example, when the judge is in the right front quarter, you must be in the left front quarter, keeping an eye on the judge. When the judge is in the right hind quarter, you must be in the right front quarter. Setting Up Your Horse When you set up your horse for inspection or standing in line, it should have all four feet square or stand according to breed type. Keep the horse s head up and its weight on all four feet. Keep the horse alert and posed at all times. When teaching your horse to set up, the most important thing is to establish a pattern and be consistent. Set the hind feet first. Use the right hind foot as the plant foot. Then, position only the left hind foot. Only one hind foot ever moves in this procedure. Move the left hind foot forward or backward to position it beside the the right hind foot. Set up the front feet second. The right front is the logical foot to place next because of the diagonals of the horse. Set the left front foot last. Pull down on the lead shank to move the hind feet. Lift up on the lead shank to move the front feet. If you do this consistently, the horse will know which feet you are trying to move at all times. When you are training your horse, if it does not want to move its hind feet or does not respond well, back the horse up and lead it forward several times until the horse moves 1. Left front quarter 3. Left hind quarter Handler is here or here 2. Right front quarter 4. Right hind quarter The 4-H Horse Project Riding and Showing 123

10 Safe zone Danger zone Safe zone As the judge moves around the horse, you should change sides when the judge is at the heartgirth and when the judge crosses the tail and the nose. Move quietly and promptly with as little commotion as possible, using only three or four steps and keeping eye contact with the judge. Do not change hands on the lead when you change sides. Stand facing the horse at a 45-degree angle off the horse s shoulder, in front and to the side of the horse s head. Never stand directly in front of the horse in the danger zone. Judge Diagonal position to see off hind foot and whether gelding has let down. Shaded area is unsafe. Judge Judge Judge Check 1: Handler should be on the opposite side of the horse when the judge is in front of the horse. Check 2: Handler should be on the same side as the judge when the judge is beside or behind the horse. Check 3: Handler must keep eye contact with the judge at all times. 124 Riding and Showing The 4-H Horse Project

11 Showmanship Patterns Learn to read and follow patterns correctly. You must understand exactly what the judge is asking for and try to analyze what the judge is expecting. If the pattern states Back 6 steps, that indicates the judge is probably a stickler for perfection and precision, and you need to make sure you back exactly six steps. If the pattern calls for a 180-degree haunch turn, then that is exactly what the judge is looking for. If you turn more than 180 degrees or less than 180 degrees, you will have points deducted from your score. You must execute a pattern exactly as diagrammed. Some judges like to use cones or markers in their patterns. Make sure you are on the correct side of the cone per the drawn or spoken pattern. Getting too close to or too far from a cone disrupts a maneuver. Walking around or knocking down cones are major faults in showmanship. If the pattern calls for you to walk or trot at a cone, this means to pick up the walk or trot when the horse s front feet are even with the cone. Think ahead, and plan out your pattern. Follow these helpful tips to prepare: Read the pattern aloud several times. Draw the pattern on a sheet of paper to help memorize it. Walk the pattern without the horse and physically do the required maneuvers. Look to see where cones (or other markers) are set up in the arena, and visualize where the horse must be in relation to them during the pattern. Watch other people do the pattern (but be sure you know whether they are doing it correctly). See the sample Showmanship pattern on the next page. Class Procedures and Expectations The class procedure and scoring are well defined in the 4-H Horse Contest Guide (PNW 574). Expectations All judges have similar expectations. They look for contestants who have done their homework and are able to do all maneuvers and other requested elements properly. Straight lines are extremely important. Horses should travel and set up straight. Crooked lines detract from the performance. Remember these showmanship pointers: Show 100 percent of the time you are in the arena. Pay attention at all times. Do not allow your horse to rest a foot. Demonstrate a positive attitude. If you have a nervous or fractious horse, move to the end of the line so you do not interfere with other horses in the class. Maintain proper etiquette at all times in the show ring. Practice ahead of time. By learning all the basic showmanship maneuvers, you will be able to perform to your best potential. Class Procedure Enter the arena as directed by the judge, ring steward, or announcer. Keep at least one horse length behind the horse in front of you. If necessary, pass on the inside and return to the rail. Be aware of the judge s position at all times. Walk ear-to-ear with the horse, about an arm s length from the near side. Hold the lead 8 to 18 inches from the halter in the right hand with the end folded in a figure 8 in the left hand. Do not coil the lead or fasten it with a rubber band in a figure 8. If instructed to line up, do so side-by-side leaving 6 to 8 feet between horses, if possible. This allows the judge to pass safely between horses and have a good view of your horse. Quickly stand the horse square, balanced, or stretched, consistent with the breed and your attire. While in line, do not let your horse circle you. Always turn the horse away from you for turns 90 degrees or more (quarter turn). If asked to move to another position in line, back out quietly, and promptly lead to the new place. Speak to the animal to prevent it from becoming startled when another horse is moved nearby. Pose (set up) your horse with all four feet square or according to breed type. The horse s head should be up and its weight should be on all four feet. Do not let the horse go to sleep, but do not do anything that will attract attention. A gelding may let down when standing relaxed; correct by moving him forward or back. You should not use your feet to touch the horse s hooves to get it to set up, nor should you change hands on the lead to set up. If the horse moves out of position, quickly reset it. You may use quiet voice commands. When the horse is set up, face the horse diagonally at a 45-degree angle off the horse s shoulder. in front and to the side of the head, moving from side to side as necessary. Be in a position to see your horse and keep your eyes The 4-H Horse Project Riding and Showing 125

12 on the judge without blocking the judge s view or standing directly in front of your horse. When the judge inspects your horse, respond to his or her movements with the quartering system. Change sides when the judge is at the heartgirth and when the judge crosses the tail and the nose. Step around the horse s head quickly and quietly, using three or four steps and keeping your eyes on the judge. Do not change hands on the lead when you change sides, and never stand in front of your horse in the danger zone. Listen carefully to instructions. When asked for your individual performance, follow the judge s instructions. Be ready to move promptly when signaled. Lines should be straight, and you should stay 5 to 7 feet away from the judge. Haunch turns and forehand turns should have forward motion. Turn the horse away from you if the turn required is 90 degrees or more. For turns less than 90 degrees, you may turn the horse toward you. To back, face to the rear of the horse. In Washington and Idaho, do not change hands on the lead to back. In Oregon, changing hands on the lead is optional. Back the horse the requested distance in a straight line. Four steps are considered one length, counting the movement of the front feet. If the pattern includes closing the back, return to your position at the start of the back and balance your horse. You may touch your horse only when asked to perform sidepass or forehand turn maneuvers (or to smooth the mane or forelock). This means you must not touch your horse when asking for a haunch turn or back, nor pet your horse until the class is dismissed. 126 Riding and Showing The 4-H Horse Project

13 sample showmanship pattern Judge Judge Judge Judge 1. Walk out of line to Judge. 2. STOP, back one length, close the back, and set up for inspection. 3. When excused, do a 180-degree haunch turn to the right. 4. Trot back through the line, do a haunch turn 180 degrees to the right, and return to place in line at a walk. symbols lope trot back walk The 4-H Horse Project Riding and Showing 127

14 Performance Western Ridi ng Saddling Always follow good safety practices. Clean any mud or dirt from the horse s back and heart girth, and brush down all the hair. Be sure the saddle blanket or pad and the cinch are clean. Working from the near side, place the blanket well forward on the neck and pull it back into place to smooth the hair. Make sure the blanket is lying flat with no wrinkles. Hook the right stirrup over the saddle horn. Lay the cinch(es) over the seat. Gently swing the saddle into position, making sure the cinch(es) and stirrup do not swing down and scare the horse. If the saddle is not in the correct position, lift it up to move it; never rough up the hair by pulling the saddle or blanket forward. Lift the pad slightly under the gullet of the saddle so that it does not press on the top of the withers. Carefully move to the off side and let down the cinch(es) and stirrup. If the saddle has a double rigging, always fasten the front cinch first and the back cinch last. The saddle could easily turn under the horse if this is not done. When unsaddling, always unfasten the back cinch first, then the front one. A back cinch is not required. In fact, most equitation saddles do not have one. Make sure the cinch(es) is not twisted. Then, return to the near side, reach under the horse, and pick up the cinch. Make two wraps with the latigo, and tighten it slowly until it is barely snug. Secure it with a cinch knot, the tongue of the cinch, or both. Put the end of the latigo in its keeper or tuck it into the knot. cinching Latigo knot. Use when cinch ring has no tongue Untrack the horse by walking a few steps or pulling each front leg forward as far as possible. This pulls the skin and hair away 4 from the girth and helps prevent sores. Never cinch a horse tightly at first, as it may become cinchbound (may try to lie down or bite). The cinch should be snug but still allow a flat hand to slip underneath. Check it several times: after saddling, after untracking, and after riding a short distance. Some horses expand their girth area, then relax later. The back cinch should be snug enough to barely touch the horse s body when it inhales, but not so loose that a back foot might catch in it. There must be a connecting strap between the front and back cinches. Fasten accessory straps such as breast collars, tie-downs, or martingales last. To unsaddle, reverse the steps. Unfasten accessory straps first, then the back cinch, and last the front cinch. Buckle the cinches into the latigo keeper or lay them over the saddle to keep them clean and out from under foot. Also, loop the latigo strap through the D-ring. You may remove the saddle and blanket together. Slip them toward the rear and off the near side. Bridling Put the reins around the horse s neck, or drop the halter s noseband off and refasten the crownpiece around the neck. With the halter rope draped over your right arm, spread the crownpiece of the bridle with your right hand and hold the bit in your left hand. You may drape the reins over the horse s neck to keep them off the ground. Standing on the near side (never in front), hold the top of the headstall over the horse s forehead with your right hand. Let the bit rest on the fingers of your left hand. Use your little finger to move the curb strap back under the horse s jaw and your thumb to pry open the side of the horse s mouth in the space between incisors and molars. Press the horse s lips against its teeth if it refuses to open its mouth. Slip the bit between the teeth without hitting them. At the same time, pull the headstall up with your right hand. Put the headstall over the right ear by gently folding or cupping the ear forward. Do the same with the left ear and pull the forelock from under the crownpiece. Fasten the throatlatch and run all the straps through their keepers. Check the bit position and the tightness of the chinstrap (two fingers between the horse and the chinstrap is a common measure of correctness). The throatlatch should have slack 128 Riding and Showing The 4-H Horse Project

15 in it when the horse has its head in a normal position (use the same measurement of two fingers). Unbridling is the reverse. Guide the bit out of the horse s mouth or let the horse drop it without hitting the teeth. Always be gentle when bridling and unbridling your horse. Some horses become head-shy from careless handling. The Aids Horses are controlled by hands (or reins), legs, weight, and voice. These four natural aids are the language riders use to communicate with their mounts. As a rider becomes more skilled and the horse better trained, the use of the aids becomes less and less noticeable. Good hands, correct posture, and proper use of legs and weight are the basic foundation in all styles of riding. Hands or reins Good hands often are referred to as light hands. Contact with the horse s mouth should be as delicate as possible while still maintaining control. Hands should be quiet, not jerking up and down, forward and back, or sideways with the horse s motion. Your fingers should be relaxed until the reins are needed for turns, stops, or backing. Gentle give and take pressure on the reins can ask the horse to lower its head into the proper position and relax its jaw. This flexes the horse at the poll, which allows proper action of the bit and helps collect the horse s body. Never use a steady pull to cue or control the horse, or its mouth could become hard. Your upper arms should hang vertically from the shoulder. Your elbows should not be clamped to the body or pushed out to the side or rear. Keep a straight line from your elbows, through your wrists and hands, to the bit. This gives good leverage and lets your fingers and wrists do most of the work without moving your arms. Hold the reins just above and in front of the saddle horn. Legs The rider s body is supported mainly by the seat bones, the feet in the stirrups, and to a certain extent the thighs. The lower legs should be alongside the horse, not thrust away from its sides. They should be in the correct position to signal easily for increase of speed, stopping, collection, and moving the hindquarters. Your legs should be directly under your body, with knees slightly bent and your weight on the balls of the feet. The stirrups should be just short enough to allow your heels to be lower than your toes by flexing the ankles. Never raise your heel to signal the horse; use your calves. Toes should be parallel to the horse or slightly turned out in a natural position. Your feet and legs should be as motionless as possible. Ride on the balls of the feet so you can get them free if the horse should fall. A common fault is riding with the feet too far forward. This is caused by sitting on the tailbone instead of the two sitting bones. To correct this problem, tip your pelvis forward and move your whole leg out and back from the hip. Another method is to stand up balanced over your feet, then sit down by bending your knees without moving your legs or sitting back on the tailbone. Keep your heels down. If you use spurs, know their purpose, and use them sparingly. Weight A rider s weight should be balanced in the center of the saddle, not to one side or the other. Your shoulders should be straight across from one side to the other and not rounded. If your rein hand is too far forward, then so are your shoulder and upper body, resulting in more weight on that side of the horse. Sit up straight with head up, chin level, and eyes looking ahead. Good posture does not mean that the body is rigid and stiff. A rider should be relaxed and supple to move gracefully with the horse. Good posture is a combination of sitting and standing, with your feet as a base under your body. Voice A soft but firm spoken command or cluck given before rein and leg aids warns a horse to get ready for a stop, back, or change in gait. With a voice cue, you can use much lighter aids. You also can use your voice to calm, reward, or scold a horse. Incorrect Correct Correct Incorrect Incorrect The 4-H Horse Project Riding and Showing 129

16 Mounting and Dismounting For both the safety of the rider and the comfort of the horse, it is important that mounting and dismounting are done correctly. Never mount in a barn, near a fence, or under trees or overhangs. First, check the cinch and tighten it if necessary. Stand on the near side and balance the horse on all four feet. Turn slightly toward the horse s tail or face the horse, but keep an eye on the horse s eyes and ears to be ready for any movement. Facing forward when mounting is unwise, as the horse can easily step off and leave the rider off balance or in a position to be kicked. Adjust the reins evenly in your left hand with just enough contact to keep the horse from moving ahead. Place this hand on the neck in front of the withers; grasp a lock of mane or the neck. Put your left foot in the stirrup; push the toe of your boot against the cinch, not the horse s side, so you do not poke the horse with your toe. Brace your left knee against the saddle and grasp the saddle horn with your right hand. Your left leg and two hands form a triangle of support. Spring up from your right foot with the left as a lever. Try not to hop up-and-down or pull with the arms. Hopping might startle the horse, and pulling may turn the saddle. Keep your body as upright as possible as your right leg clears the horse s rump. Your left leg and right hand support you enough to let you sit down lightly and smoothly. Adjust the reins and slip your right foot into the right stirrup immediately. Do not permit the horse to turn or move away until you are seated and ask the horse to move. Dismounting is exactly the reverse of mounting, except that to avoid getting hung up in the stirrup, your left foot first slides backward in the stirrup to clear it easily as your right leg hits the ground. For the same reason, shorter riders may swing the right leg over, lean across the saddle, slip the left foot out of the stirrup entirely, push back, and slide or jump lightly down. To mount with romal reins, double the end in the left hand. After mounting, slide the bight under the rein hand to the opposite side. For a brief dismount, romal reins need not be taken down; the romal part may be looped behind the horn. Both split reins, or the near rein only, may be taken down. Never let go of the reins. It is customary to bring romal reins over the horse s head to hold or lead the horse. If you use snaps, you may unsnap the rein on the near side, then gather your reins to lead or present your horse. If you are using split reins, take both reins down to lead your horse. If you are asked to dismount, present your horse, and remount, you need take down only the near rein. How to Hold the Reins Use one hand for reining in Western equitation classes (and Western pleasure) if you are using a curb bit. You may not change hands on the reins, but may use either hand. Reins usually are held in the left hand. Split or romal reins are both acceptable. When you use romal reins, the hand is around the reins with the quirt end coming out the top of the hand by the thumb. The romal is held in the other hand, with approximately 16 inches of rein separating the two hands. No fingers are permitted between the reins. When using split reins, you may hold them the same as romal reins, with the free end in the opposite hand. Or you may hold them with the palm facing down and one finger between the reins, and the free end (bight) falling on the same side as the rein hand. The free hand should be kept free from the horse and saddle and held in a relaxed manner. Roping reins (one single rein connected from shank to shank) are split reins romal reins not allowed in perform ance. They are allowed and pre ferred in gaming. When you use a bosal or snaffle bit, you must use two hands on the reins. Hold split reins by crossing the reins between your hands so that both hands are holding both reins. Closed reins are allowed with a bosal. Mecate reins often are used when riding with a bosal, and they are highly recommended. 130 Riding and Showing The 4-H Horse Project

17 1 stock seat position Straight line through ears, shoulders, hips, and ankles 2. Eyes up 3. Light reins, slight contact 4. Slight bend at knees 5. Heels down 6. Legs under body 7. Back straight 5 8. Hat straight 9. Eyes ahead Shoulders even 11. Nonreining hand held in relaxed manner 12. Hand held slightly above and in center of saddle horn 13. Reins even 14. Legs close to horse from thighs to ankles 15. Toes pointed ahead common faults Back rounded 2. Riding the cantle 3. Feet forward 4. Looking down 5. Elbows out 6. Toes out 7. Legs away from horse s sides 8. Weight on one side 9. Shoulders uneven 10. Body twisted, leaning into rein hand 11. Body bent forward at waist 12. Heels up 13. Hand too high and held to one side 14. Reins uneven 15. Hand too high 16. Reins too long The 4-H Horse Project Riding and Showing 131

18 The position of the hand not holding the reins is optional as long as your shoulders remain square. Hold that hand in a relaxed manner, free of the horse and equipment, but not hanging straight down. You may hold the ends of split reins or the romal to keep them from swinging and to adjust the length of the reins. Placing the hand on your thigh is acceptable. Your hands should not be right next to each other, as you don t ever want it to appear that you have two hands on the reins. Western Gaits Walk The walk is a four-beat gait, with the horse s feet hitting the ground one at a time. Collect the horse by lightly picking up the reins and making contact with the bit. At the same time, squeeze lightly with the thighs, but do not let the horse move forward. With the horse brought to attention this way, use relatively light pressure with the calves of your legs to move it into a walk. Release the bit contact if the horse has been trained to go on a looser rein, but never let the reins hang slack. Follow the movements of the horse s head with your hand. Encourage the horse to walk freely. Do not peck at the horse with your heels; your feet should be as motionless as possible. Flex at the waist to absorb the horse s motion in your lower body. Jog Jog is the term used in Western riding for a slow trot. A trot is a two-beat gait with diagonals (opposite corner legs) moving as a pair, striking the ground at the same time. Collect the horse at the halt or walk and use more leg pressure to go forward at the jog. You may use a voice command or cluck first, depending on the horse. Adjust the rein tension to allow the horse to move forward at the desired pace. Lean your body weight slightly forward from the hips as an additional aid, but come back to an erect position for a jog. Keep enough weight on your feet to absorb the motion in your ankles. Also relax the seat muscles, so the sitting bones follow the slight side-to-side motion. In a fast jog, the horse is asked to increase the speed and frequency of its steps. In an extended jog, the horse noticeably extends the length of its stride without increasing the frequency of its steps. In Western riding, as the speed of the jog increases, lean slightly forward, keeping contact with your thighs. Put more weight in the stirrups and keep your heels down to absorb the impact in the ankles, knees, and thighs. Bring the seat slightly out of the saddle, rising slightly forward on your thighs, moving with the horse s motion. Lope The lope is a three-beat gait. One rear foot hits the ground followed by the other rear foot and the diagonal front foot. Then the other front foot hits the ground. Lope is the term used in Western riding for a canter. During the lope (or at a faster gait, the gallop), the horse goes forward in a series of leaps. As it lopes, the horse s body is turned at a slight angle to the direction it is traveling. In a circle, horses naturally lope on the inside lead. If the rider simply collects the horse and uses stronger leg pressure than is required for the trot, the horse will lope on either the right or left lead. The rider must guide the horse s body into the correct angle for the lead, using the reins and legs. For the left lead, collect the horse at the walk and lift its head slightly to lighten the forehand. Do not lean forward. To angle the horse s body, move your right leg back a few inches and push the hindquarters slightly to the left. Follow instantly with enough pressure to push the horse forward into the bit, but do not allow it to speed up. At the same time, your left leg should put pressure at the cinch to increase forward motion. Your body weight should be nearly centered, with a slight shift to the right (outside) sitting bone. This lightens the left forequarter. The horse should begin to lope from the walk without trotting. It may be necessary to rein the horse slightly to the right to help pick up the lead. Straighten the horse s head as soon as it picks up the lead. Reverse the aids for the right lead. Your hands and arms should be relaxed enough to move with the horse s head. Locked arms tend to make a rider rock forward and back in the saddle. Rigid posture is another cause of rocking. Your back must be supple at the waist. With practice and experience, a rider can feel whether or not the horse is on the correct lead. When the horse s body is angled away from the leading side, the saddle moves forward in a slight spiral, and the rider s leg on the leading side is pushed ahead. For example, when the horse is on the left lead, the rider s left leg tends to move ahead. Another way to check is to glance down, without tipping your head, at the horse s leading shoulder, which naturally moves forward. (Do not lean over to look.) Left to itself, a horse often develops the habit of using one lead most of the time. It may refuse to take the unaccustomed lead entirely. 132 Riding and Showing The 4-H Horse Project

19 Ask for a specific lead even on a pleasure ride to avoid this problem. Using both leads also relieves strain on the horse s legs. The counter canter (the horse leading with the outside leg in a circle, or the outside lead) is a good exercise to test the horse s obedience and improve its balance. Lead changes More advanced horses and riders may wish to try making smooth changes from one lead to the other. The easiest method is to drop to a walk or trot and immediately pick up the opposite lead. This is a simple change. Try to take as few steps as possible between leads. Another technique is the interrupted change. Bring the horse to a complete halt, and immediately apply the correct aid to take the lope on the opposite lead. There should be no walking or trotting steps. The third type of change is the flying lead change. The horse must change front and rear leads without dropping to a trot or walk. If the horse misses the rear lead, it is called cross-centering, cross-firing, crossleading, or disunited. When compared to an equal pattern using an alternate change, credit is given for a good flying change. However, a simple or interrupted change with no mistakes is better than a flying lead change done poorly. Stops and Backs A good stop at every speed requires a definite set of aids to prepare the horse. Give the voice command Whoa first. Fix your hands in one position to set up a barrier with the bit. Then, push the horse into the bit by squeezing the legs. Sit deep, nearly on the tailbone, without leaning forward or back, to absorb the shock and avoid being jerked forward. Grip with your thighs and put more weight on your heels to keep them low and underneath the body. Do not shove your legs forward, as this pushes your weight back on the horse s hindquarters and makes a good stop more difficult. The horse should be trained to stop immediately when the reins apply pressure. Relax the pressure on the bit once the horse has stopped, but maintain contact. To back, give the horse a signal to move by squeezing with your thighs. At the same time, create a barrier with the bit by setting your hand(s). The horse cannot move forward, so it backs. Relax the pressure on the bit as soon as the horse starts to back. Turns Turning requires a combination of reins, leg, and weight. If the horse neckreins (turns with one hand on the reins), lay the outside rein against the horse s neck in front of the withers without pulling on the bit. Move your hand as little as possible, and try not to reach across the neck. Your outside leg should press against the horse s side to help push it into the turn. Your weight should stay upright in the center of the saddle. If you are riding with two hands on the reins, pull the direct (inside) rein in the direction of the turn as lightly as possible. Two hands are not used with a Western curb bit. Move your hand back toward your body, not to the outside. Loosen the outside rein slightly and lay it against the horse s neck. Your legs and weight work the same way as in neck reining. The indirect rein aid is used to move the horse s weight from one front shoulder to the other, bending only the head and neck. The rein makes a line from the inner side of the bit, across the front of the withers, to the rider s opposite hip. One use for the indirect rein is to keep the horse from cutting corners, while still bending properly in the corners. Western Pleasure Western Pleasure is an event judged on a horse s ability to be a pleasure to ride. To be a pleasure to ride, a horse must be broke and quiet, soft and smooth, and go with little restraint. In addition, the horse must meet the requirements of the class. Western Pleasure Pleasure Type and Pony Western Pleasure are class divisions and not separate events. Class routine Contestants show their horses at a walk, jog, and lope. They are worked both ways of the ring at all gaits. Horses may be asked for an extended jog. The order to reverse is executed by turning away from the rail. Riders should not be asked to reverse at the lope. After rail work is complete, entries line up as directed. Riders usually are asked to back. Scoring procedure Horses are judged on manners, performance, and suitability to give a pleasurable ride. A good pleasure horse has a stride of reasonable length in keeping with its conformation. The horse has enough cushion to its pastern to give the rider a pleasant, smooth ride. The horse carries its head in a natural position, not high and over flexed at the poll, or low with the nose out or over-flexed. The horse should be relaxed The 4-H Horse Project Riding and Showing 133