Restore a canebacked

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1 Restore a canebacked chair BY RUSSELL COOPER Careful step-by-step restoration will produce a stunning looking chair. PHOTOGRAPHS: APRIL STARK From old to just-like new, as shown by Russ Cooper. WHEN I FOUND a stylish canebacked beech timber chair approximately 70 years old, it was in poor condition, but I decided it was worth restoring. When the work was finished, it was going to look as good as it did originally. In evaluating the chair, I noted the condition, the hole in the cane and general deterioration. The restoration involved replacing the cane, restoring the woodwork and reupholstering the seat. If you find a similar piece of furniture, you can restore it to its best by carefully following the simple steps outlined. REMOVING CANE You need to work on a suitable bench at a suitable height. The bench I use is 750mm high. The first step is to cut out the cane, leaving the cane wedge in the groove intact. A hobby knife can be used for this procedure. In some cases the arms may need to be removed to get access to the cane. Next, using a narrow chisel, carefully prise the cane wedge from the routed groove within the chairback frame. Be careful not to damage the wooden frame while doing this. Using the chisel, clean out any glue or cane to leave a uniform groove. Use sandpaper to remove any sharp edges and pay particular attention to the inside edge. This will ensure the cane isn t damaged when setting in again. REMOVING UPHOLSTERY This task must be carried out with great care, making sure not to damage any of the wood on the chair. Tools needed for this process are a screwdrivers, hammer, side cutters, scissors and a hobby knife. To remove the old fabric, you must remove all staples or tacks. This chair was tacked and I used an old screwdriver and a panelbeater s AUGUST/ SEPTEMBER 2006 THE SHED 63

2 Cut out the cane. Prise the cane wedge out. Sandpaper to remove any sharp edges. Remove the old fabric carefully. Expose the substructure. Finish stripping kit. hammer to remove the tacks. These tools can also be used to remove staples, but I found it better to use a smaller screwdriver to get under the staples and side cutters for pulling them out. Once the tacks are removed, peel back the fabric to expose the substructure. This was made up of hessian over the springs, flax (vegetable fibre) as the base and wadding (cotton fibre) as the padding with jute webbing under the springs. This internal substructure is then removed as a whole. Use the knife and scissors to cut any cord attaching the packing to the hessian, and the springs to the webbing. Be careful not to disturb the substructure itself, as you reuse it. STRIPPING FINISH Now that the upholstery and cane has been removed, (the chair is shown in its naked state) the next step is to strip any finish from the woodwork. For this I used Furniture Refabs Stripping Kit. This kit has steel wool, paint stripper, safety gloves, brass bristle brush, paint brush, wax sticks, sandpaper, instructions and safety data sheets. Before commencing stripping, shake the tin well. (Be careful when removing the lid). Pour the stripper from the main tin into another smaller tin, a necessary step to avoid contamination of the larger 64 THE SHED AUGUST/ SEPTEMBER 2006

3 tin. Pour only enough stripper into the second tin to use immediately. Any unused stripper in the smaller tin must not be tipped back into the main tin. This stage should be done in a well-ventilated area Wearing safety glasses and gloves, brush the stripper onto the finish and leave it there until you see it react. If you don t get a reaction then apply a second coat over the first coat. This as a rule applies to each layer of finish on the project. Reaction times differ and reactions will include the bubbling or softening of the finish. Once you see a reaction, use a plastic scraper to remove the finish. It s important that it s plastic as steel scrapers may damage the wood. Cut some steel wool into 300mm lengths. Gently pull the wool back and forth, and forth and back around the turned legs and arms. You will know you are pulling too tightly if the steel wool rips. In using steel wool to rub the woodwork down, go with the grain as much as you can. Do this until the wooden surface is clean and dry. Using steel wool helps to retain the patina (age) of the chair. If you use sandpaper, it will remove any natural aging of the furniture, and in some cases devalue it. REPLACING CANE At this stage, if required, complete any structural repairs to the frame. Use a plastic scraper to remove finish. Gently use steel wool. Measure where cane will be fitted. Stain both sides of the cane. Bits of cane wedge hold cane in temporarily. Press cane partly into the groove. AUGUST/ SEPTEMBER 2006 THE SHED 65

4 The next step in the restoration process is the canework. You will require sheet cane (pre-woven cane), cane wedge, wood glue and small panel pins. Measure the area of the chair that the cane will be fitted to. Cut the cane, being sure to allow an extra 25mm of cane to work with on each side. Now for the stain use a nonwater based stain, and when choosing your stain, choose a colour that matches the desired end colour of your finished woodwork. Ensure you are wearing safety gloves for the staining process. Stain both sides of the cane and leave it for an hour or so to dry. Once the stain is dry, soak the new sheet in cold water for approximately minutes, as the cane must be soft when you fit it to the chair. Shake off any excess water and lay the sheet of cane over the back of the chair. Ensure that the lines of the cane are straight and parallel to the sides of the chair. Use short lengths of the cane wedge to hold the cane temporarily in place. Now use a tapered piece of hardwood timber as a tool to gently press the cane partly into the groove. Ensure the hardwood is sanded smooth, so as not to damage the cane. Woodworking glue can then be placed every 30-40mm around the groove over the cane, to help to lock it in. (Use more glue in a seat application.) Next, starting at the bottom of the chair, use the hardwood tool and a hammer to tap the wedge strips into the groove. If you then smooth and stretch the damp cane, the next wedge strips can be tapped in on the top and then sides. If the chair has a curved back, place a block of wood directly under where you are hammering, to get a solid base to hit against. Be careful not to damage the back of the chair. Only if necessary, use panel pins to hold the cane wedge in place. Then use a nail punch and wax sticks or similar filler over the panel pins. When the glue is dry, trim off any excess cane using a hobby knife. Take care not to leave any sharp edges sticking out. Note the angle of the knife blade in the photo. It is angled away from the cane but in the groove. In this case, I fitted the arms of the chair over the top of the cane so they could be re-glued into place. APPLYING FINISH There are many different finishes you can apply. If you wish to use Tap cane wedge into the groove. Place glue around groove over the cane. Angle the knife away from the cane but in the groove. Fit arms over the cane and reglue. 66 THE SHED AUGUST/ SEPTEMBER 2006

5 varnish or paint, you will need to wash wood thoroughly with a solvent like acetone, methylated spirits or universal thinners. This removes any grease, oil or other contaminants. For this chair I used Danish oil. Brush a liberal coat of oil onto the chair frame. More oil is needed on the end grains or any turned parts, as these areas soak up oil. Leave the oil to soak in for at least an hour. Within 24 hours, rub the wood back with a synthetic rag then apply a second coat. You can increase the gloss by using a fine grade wet and dry sandpaper or fine steel wool (0000) between coats. Apply two or three coats depending on the gloss level you want. For a low sheen, two coats of oil are sufficient; for a higher gloss I use three coats. The last step in this process is to buff the wood vigorously with a synthetic pad an hour or two after the last coat of oil goes on. Please note, every type of oil is different and the above instructions are for the oil I use. Read instructions of your oil before commencing. REUPHOLSTERING The equipment needed in this part of the restoration process are a compressed air stapler or hand stapler, scissors, tailor s chalk, webbing stretcher, hog ring pliers or a curved needle and strong thread. Turn the chair upside down and staple or tack one end of the webbing to the centre of the frame. Fold the webbing over itself to prevent it fraying. Longer staples or tacks are recommended for this. Use a webbing stretcher or make one, by cutting a wooden block and screwing long screws through, so the points of the screw are exposed. This grips the webbing and pulls it tight when you rock the block back. Staple or tack the webbing to the frame. To reinforce the ends of the webbing, fold them over and staple again. Proceed with the webbing process in an interwoven pattern. Replace any distorted springs. Then, using hog ring pliers or a curved needle and strong thread attach the springs to the webbing. This will stop them moving horizontally. Attach each spring to the webbing in at least three points. The springs are shown in place. Use a double layer of hessian or heavy fabric to cover the springs. Use hog ring pliers or a curved needle and thread to attach the springs at the top as done with the webbing and spring at the bottom Again, fasten the springs at three points. Reposition the substructure and Use a webbing stretcher (you can make one). Attach springs to webbing. Springs in place. Use a double layer of hessian. AUGUST/ SEPTEMBER 2006 THE SHED 67

6 Fasten springs at three points. Add a new layer of glazed wadding or foam. Make diagonal cuts in the liner. Measure area for seat cover. Use cardboard strip. Allow at least 10mm to fold down. add a new layer of glazed wadding or foam for the padding. I form the desired shape of the seat with my hands and fasten it with staples or tacks. Then I cover substructure with calico or light cloth. This acts as a liner. It s also good practice for placing the final chosen fabric. I drew a square in each corner with dotted lines and then made cuts along the diagonal. The purpose of these cuts is to enable the material to be folded around the legs and under at the edges. Once you are happy with the form and contour of the base, measure the area for the seat cover, allowing for fastening and centralising patterns. FABRIC Place the fabric over the chair. Temporarily tack or staple the fabric to hold the pattern centred before making any cuts. Starting with the back of the chair, fold back the corner of the fabric and cut it towards the leg, allowing at least 10mm to fold down the inside. At the front of the chair, have the fabric ready to fasten before the excess material is cut off. Fold the fabric under the chair and fasten it to the frame. Often the staples or tacks can be hidden in the underside of the furniture. If they can t be hidden, then once you have trimmed the material back, you will need to cover the staples or tacks with a gimp or decorative nails. 68 THE SHED AUGUST/ SEPTEMBER 2006

7 Small tacks tidy up the corners. Trim and fold under. Fasten the material along the back and sides, ensuring any creases are pulled towards each leg. Lastly, fasten the material along the front. You may need to reattach each corner, to eliminate any creases. Cut a front border, ensuring that the pattern matches the front and top of the chair. You can add a piping and back tack. When back tacking the front border, keep the height consistent. Use a cardboard strip to prevent tearing the fabric. This will also give it a straight profile when the fabric is folded over. Place extra wadding under the front border to increase the profile. Lastly, pull the front border down and cut away the excess fabric from each end and fasten the material under the front of the chair. Use small tacks if necessary to tidy up and hold fabric at the corners. Turn the chair upside down and fasten the hessian. Start by using the salvage (uncut) edge of the hessian at the front of the chair. Then trim it and fold it under before stapling. Good luck. shed11592 Contents 1 litre paint & varnish stripper 3m Steel wool grade 001 Brass wire brush /scraper Paint brush Ansell gloves Wax sticks 6 colours 180 grit sandpaper Instructions included Furniture Refabricators Complete Stripping Pack Everything you need in one handy package Contains no phenol, hydrofluoric acid or caustic Only $60 inc GST (freight extra) See our complete range of restoration and upholstery supplies Furniture Refabricators 318 Ruakura Rd, Hamilton Ph: (07) Fax: (07) AUGUST/ SEPTEMBER 2006 THE SHED 69

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