2016 by Woodhead Publishing India Pvt. Ltd. Textile dyes
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1 Textile dyes
2
3 Textile dyes N. N. Mahapatra WOODHEAD PUBLISHING INDIA PVT LTD New Delhi
4 CRC Press Taylor & Francis Group 6000 Broken Sound Parkway NW, Suite 300 Boca Raton, FL Woodhead Publishing India Pvt. Ltd. 303, Vardaan House, 7/28, Ansari Road Daryaganj, New Delhi , India Exclusive worldwide distribution by CRC Press an imprint of Taylor & Francis Group, an Informa business No claim to original U.S. Government works Version Date: International Standard Book Number-13: (ebook - PDF) This book contains information obtained from authentic and highly regarded sources. Reasonable efforts have been made to publish reliable data and information, but the author and publisher cannot assume responsibility for the validity of all materials or the consequences of their use. The authors and publishers have attempted to trace the copyright holders of all material reproduced in this publication and apologize to copyright holders if permission to publish in this form has not been obtained. If any copyright material has not been acknowledged please write and let us know so we may rectify in any future reprint. Except as permitted under U.S. Copyright Law, no part of this book may be reprinted, reproduced, transmitted, or utilized in any form by any electronic, mechanical, or other means, now known or hereafter invented, including photocopying, microfilming, and recording, or in any information storage or retrieval system, without written permission from the publishers. For permission to photocopy or use material electronically from this work, please access www. copyright.com ( or contact the Copyright Clearance Center, Inc. (CCC), 222 Rosewood Drive, Danvers, MA 01923, CCC is a not-for-profit organization that provides licenses and registration for a variety of users. For organizations that have been granted a photocopy license by the CCC, a separate system of payment has been arranged. Trademark Notice: Product or corporate names may be trademarks or registered trademarks, and are used only for identification and explanation without intent to infringe. Visit the Taylor & Francis Web site at and the CRC Press Web site at For information about WPI Publishing visit their website at
5 Contents Preface Acknowledgements Conclusion xi xiii xv 1. Introduction to textile dyes Introduction Manipulating the color and application of dyes Classification of colorants 7 2. Direct dyes Introduction Classification of direct dyes Application of direct dyes After-treatment of direct dyed material Chemical structure of direct dyes Manufacturing of direct dyes Identification of direct dyed material Identification of direct dye powder Stripping of direct dye from the dyed fabric Azoic dyes (Naphthol dyes) Introduction Stages of Naphthol dyeing Advantages of Naphthol dyeing Disadvantages of Naphthol dyeing Azo coupling components (Naphthols) Bases General dyeing procedure of Naphthol dyes Dyeing methods 34
6 vi Textile dyes 4. Sulphur dyes Introduction Classification Application After treatments Common problems encountered and remedies Manufacturing of sulphur dyes Properties of sulphur dyes Types of sulphur dyes Application of sulphur dyes Dyeing of liquid sulphur black Main properties of liquid sulphur dyes Use of spent dye bath in dyeing Identification of sulphur-dyed material Identification of sulphur dye powder Stripping of Sulphur dye from the dyed fabric Vat dyes Introduction Classification of vat dyes Classification of vat dyes Vat dye application methods Precautions in vat dyeing Manufacturing of vat dyes Properties of vat dyes Problems with anthraquinone dyes Vat dyes dyeing process Stripping of vat dyes Shade rehandling methods Chrome dyes (Mordant dyes) Introduction What are chrome dyes? Classification of chrome dyes 75
7 Contents vii 6.4 Application methods Properties of mordant dyes Mechanism of dyeing Application of mordant dyes What are the risks with chrome dyes? Replacement of chrome dyes Why? Metal-complex dyes Introduction Classification of metal-complex dyes Classification of metal-complex dyes Features of metal-complex dyes Types of metal-complex dyes Manufacturing of metal-complex dyes Application of metal-complex dyes Dyeing with metal-complex (1: 1) acid dyes Dyeing with metal-complex 1:2 acid dyes Stripping of metal-complex dyes Acid dyes Introduction Chemical structure of acid dyes Manufacturing of acid dyes Different types of acid dyes Mechanism of dyeing with acid dyes Identification of acid dyes Stripping of acid dyes Basic dyes Introduction Manufacturing of basic dyes Properties of basic dyes Dyeing of acrylic with basic dyes Advantages of basic dyes 122
8 viii Textile dyes 9.6 Limitations of basic dyes Modified basic dyes Key advantages over conventional basic dyes Limitations of basic dye Modified basic dye Application of the basic dyes Stripping of basic dyes Indigo dyes Introduction Cultivation of indigo dyes Processing of indigo dyes For natural indigo dye For synthetic production of indigo dye Synthetic indigo dye Pre-reduced indigo Natural indigo versus synthetic indigo Properties of indigo dyes Dyeing processes Advantages of rope dyeing against slasher dyeing Indigo dyeing process flow What s ring dyeing? Manufacturing of indigo dyes Manufacturing process of Denim Pigment dyes Introduction Development of synthetic pigments New sources for historic pigments Manufacturing and industrial standards Differences between dyes and pigments Basic dyes Fat-soluble dyes Metal-complex dyes Dyes for wood coating 156
9 12. Disperse dyes Introduction Characteristics of disperse dyes Classification of disperse dyes Properties of disperse dyes Classification of disperse dyes Manufacturing of disperse dyes Application methods of disperse dyes Dyeing mechanism of disperse dye Effect of various conditions on disperse dyeing Carrier dyeing method High temperature dyeing method Dyeing of polyester fabric in thermasol dyeing method New developments in disperse dyes Stripping of disperse dyes Reactive dyes Introduction Components of reactive dyes Types of reactive dyes Dyeing methods Reactive dyes categorized by functional group Classification of reactive dyes (with example) Advantages of the reactive dyes Dyeing cycle and important factors/phases in reactive 183 dyeing 13.9 Types of reactive dyes Uses of reactive dyes Trade names of reactive dyes Properties of reactive dyes General structure of reactive dyes Chemical structure of reactive dyes Classification of reactive dyes 186
10 x Textile dyes Manufacturing of reactive dyes Identification of reactive dyes Dyeing mechanism of reactive dye Stripping of reactive dye Different methods of reactive dye application Testing of reactive dyes Current trends in reactive dyes and their application Future trends in reactive dyes Reactive dyes for wool 194 Index 199
11 Preface During our college days we used to read a book on Chemistry of Dyes, written by Prof Dr Venkatraman. That was into many volumes and very big in size. It was a Bible for students studying Dyestuff Chemistry. But the students found it very difficult to understand. Then Dr Shenai wrote little simplified books on dyes and application. We read those books in our college time. But all these books became very academic. When we entered the textile industry the scenario was different. The practices adopted in dyes units and textile companies were very different. Till then nobody from the industry wrote any book on dyes and textiles. So I have put my 30-year shop floor experience into the book which I have titled Textile Dyes. Each chapter is simplified into the major class of dyes. I have dealt with the history, manufacturing, properties, identification, stripping, testing and application of dyes. It is written in a very simple language and in a lucid manner. The book will be helpful to textile students, research students, supervisors working in the dyes and textile industries. For the last 2 years, the prices of H Acid were so high that the prices of Reactive Dyes went skyrocketing. Every person in the industry was worried for H Acid. I found that time everybody came to know about H Acid. How crucial raw material or dye intermediate it was for the dyes industry. But they didn t know the role of H Acid in manufacturing of reactive dyes. This book deals about the manufacturing process. This will be helpful both to the dyes industry as well as textile industry.
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13 Acknowledgements I am thankful to our MD Mr Subhash Bhargava who gave me an opportunity to write such a book. His inspiration was a boost to me to put all my thoughts and studies into a book. My special thanks to my colleague Bharat Trivedi for his help in compiling the chapters in the computer. Last but not the least my sincere thanks to my family members for their timely help to complete this book in time. I want to dedicate this book to my Guide and philosopher Late Prof Dr V.A. Shenai by whom I was inspired to write few textile books.
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15 Conclusion This is my 5th book I have written on textiles. There are some interesting queries answered. People will find it very handy. It will become a reference book for Industry owners, Production Staff and Textile students and Research scholars.
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