2016 Wayne County Demolition Derby Richmond, Indiana

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1 2016 Wayne County Demolition Derby Richmond, Indiana Modified Rules Any hard top car or station wagon, Imperials, and 03 and newer Fords are allowed Trunk: Two 8 X 8 inspection holes must be put in all deck lids one on each side of trunk lid within 2 of trunk seam in center of trunk You may weld or 9 wire trunk lids and tailgates, one or the other, not both 9 WIRE: if you use 9 wire you may have 8 spots (double loop) of #9 wire. It may go around bumper or frame, washers may be welded on sheet metal only. WELD: strapping used for welding trunk may be ¼ X 3 flat stock maximum. Trunks can be welded solid! You may have two 1 max thick pieces of all thread from the floor pan to the deck lid; they may weld to frame but no more than HALF way down the side of frame. They must be straight up and down and must extend through deck lid; the washer on these can by 3 X ¼ max. On wagons these may go from the floor pan (frame) to rear roof pillars not the roof. Trunks may not be smashed flat, if cars are tucked the rear quarter panels on both sides of cars must be 6 higher than the top of the bumper. If speaker deck is removed, the trunk lid can be welded to the package tray. It must be at least 2 from rear fire wall (behind body bolts on new style fords). Hood: Hood must be open for inspection, 12 X 12 hole over carburetor is mandatory You may 9 wire or bolt the hood down; you may mix and match but only have a total of 6 spots only. 9 WIRE: you may have 6 spots of 9 wire (double looped max) to hold hood down, you may weld washers to the hood and fenders. Washers cannot be any bigger than 3 X ¼ BOLTS: you may have a total of 6 bolts in the hood to keep it secure, bolts may be 1 max. The front 2 may go all the way through core support to the frame. Core Support: You may use a 2 X 2 spacer through the core support. May be welded to the side of the frame but not to the bumper. DON'T GET CARRIED AWAY! NO ANGLE IRON ON TOP OF CORE SUPPORT. NO EXCEPTIONS!!!!! Body Mounts: Questions? Contact: Billy Rose (765) Mike Fredricks (765) Kevin Rabenstein (765) All body mounts must be in stock (factory) locations. All body mounts may be changed 1 max. You may weld washers (3 X ¼ ) over the body mount holes on the top side of the frame only. Washers on the inside may not be welded. Cars that don't come factory with body mounts in the rear package tray may add them in factory hole. No other body mounts will be permitted.

2 Body: Doors may be welded solid with 4 X ¼ max straps On pre-run cars the doors may be repaired back to stock Rust repair on body is ok, must use same thickness material. No more than a 1 overlap, get crazy get to cutting. Leave rust behind patch. If no rust can be seen, you will cut off the whole patch. You may pinch the front fenders, doors, and rear quarters front to back no added metal. Body panels will be drilled front and back. No double skinning. Each wheel well may have no more than 6 bolts each. Wheel wells may be trimmed, rolled, and welded back together single pass only. 9 wire inside cab: you may have unlimited 9 wire inside the cab. May go from frame to cage or body. Must stay inside cab nothing past front or rear fire wall. Four Point Cage: A cage must be installed, nothing bigger than 4 X 4 this is all the cage you may run. NO belly bars down the middle of the car. The cage can be inside of doors. You may weld gussets on every corner but must be from cage to cage (not cage to body or frame) just to add strength to the joints. The cage can only be welded to the frame in the four designated areas stated below. Nothing else. DASH BAR: only one and it must be at least 6 inches from your distributor protector. You may only have 2 down legs off the dash bar and they must be straight up and down and can only be welded to the top of the frame rail (behind the crush box or S curve). Cannot be welded to the fire wall at all. 2 DOOR BARS per side: these bars must be at least 6 inches off the floor and may not go past the front dash bar or rear halo bar. You may weld the door bars to the door and door post. The door bar may not have any down leg at all. HALO: mandatory and cannot be any farther back than where the kick panel meets the bench seat. Halo must be straight up and down, not pitched forward or backward and can only be welded to the top side of the frame. BACK BAR: may be welded to the door bars or down legs of halo, whichever works best for you. Cannot be wider than the door bars or halo down legs. Cannot have any down legs welded to back bar. You must weld your gas tank protector off of the back bar. Gas tank protector: may only be 36 wide (outside to outside). May be butted up to the rear fire wall but cannot be welded or bolted to frame or fire wall in any way. Kickers: you may have two 3 X 3 (max). Kickers in the front of the car only. Kickers can only run to the back of the a-arm (side closest to fire wall). No gussets off the kickers to the frame. Diamond plate on driver's door only. Window Bars: You may run ONE REAR (2 X 2 max) window bar. It can be welded to the halo and must be welded to the seam where the front of the trunk lid meets the speaker tray. If you remove the speaker tray and slide the trunk lid forward or backward, you must still put the window bar in the same location can only be welded to the trunk lid, not floor. If you look from the side of the car across the trunk it must be within 4 inches of the rear window pillars.

3 If you don't run a trunk lid, you may not have a window bar. DO NOT run to middle of trunk or back bumper or you will cut it out! You may run ONE front window bar (2 X 2 max). It may be welded to the halo. If you weld to the halo, you can only run it to the dash bar on the top side or behind (must be at least 6 from the distributor protector) not in between the dash bar and fire wall. If welded to the halo, it may not be welded to fire wall at all. If you weld the window bar to roof only, you may weld to top of the fire wall (behind distributor protector) or dash bar of your choice. Bumpers: Run any bumper you wish (front and back). You may stuff bumpers. Home made bumpers are legal. Home made pointy bumpers are allowed. Bumper shocks: may be home made (on front only) no bigger or larger than 2 X 2 x 12 may be welded whole 12 inches can cut factory frame seam open and weld the shock no creating extra seams on top or bottom of frame Bumper heights are 24 high, 14 low from bottom of bumper If car had bumper mounted factory on outside frame, it must be done that way Chrysler, older Buicks, Pontiac, Olds, etc. Frame: Trailer hitches and braces must be removed. No plating, pinning, heat treating, stuffing the frame of any kind. DO NOT PAINT FRAME! NO FRAME CREASING OR HAMMERING PERMITTED. You can notch or crease rear frame, to help the rear of the car to roll, not to strengthen the frame. Welding is limited to front and rear bumper areas. Frame seams from firewall forward may be welded top side only. If a frame section needs to be replaced or repaired due to rust, you may patch the rust with the same thickness of flat plate. Do not cut rust out. If no rust is behind plate,you will cut the whole plate off. NO MORE THAN 4 RUST REPARS ON FRAME. If the frame has damage in the rear, the back 2 body bolts may then be moved no more than 6 from the factory location. On pre-run cars, if the frame is shortened in the rear and bumper replaced, the bumper shocks may not be located closer than 6 from hump plate. Patches: All fresh cars may have two 3/8 inch thick 4 X 6 patches anywhere of their choice. You may have a total of six 3/8 inch thick 4 X 6 patches on PRE-RUN cars that have frame damage. There must be a 1 inch gap between patches.

4 Patches may only be on a flat surface no bending over the corners of the frame. If a seam has come apart, you may re-weld up to 6 (no patches bigger than 3/8 thick 4 X 6 allowed). Angle iron for the cross member cannot be longer than 5 and must be within 12 from factory location. Hump plates: For coil sprung cars you may use a hump plate. Hump plates may be 22 long ¼ thick and follow the contour of the frame. Must be centered in the hump. On new GM's ( metrics) you may use a 30 long ¼ inch thick hump plate the same way. On leaf spring cars you may use a ¼ X 22 hump plate the same way. These hump plates may contour the frame or run straight across the hump. Hump plate must remain flat plate. No bending of this over the top or bottom of frame. You may clip pre-run cars with a single butt weld with no metal added. Must use same make and model of frame (example: Ford to Ford, GM to GM). No hybrid frames permitted. On Fords you cannot clip an '02 and older with an '03 and newer or vice versa. NO EXCEPTIONS! Tilting: You may cut factory seams at the box and re-weld to tilt the front of new style Fords. No metal may be added. ALL FACTORY HOLES IN FRAME MUST REMAIN OPEN NO WELDING THESE HOLES SHUT! On '03 and newer Fords you may use an '80's and newer Ford or GM car steel cradles. They must be put in like their factory counterparts only using the factory brackets no other metal may be added. They must be in factory location and cannot be moved forward. You may use a 3 spacer from the bottom of the frame to the lower A-arm where the spring goes. You may not alter the frame in any manner other than attaching factory brackets with a single bead of weld. You cannot add any type of spring pockets to frame. ALL FACTORY HOLDS IN FRONT OF A-ARMS MUST BE OPEN. Nothing may be welded on top of frame over the holes in front of frame. On '03 and newer Fords you cannot shorten the front of the frame. A-arms must be 7.5 inches behind the rear factory holes in the front frame TO THE FRONT EDGE OF A-ARMS (THE FACTORY CRUSH POINT). A-ARMS must be from a passenger car. No truck or van A-ARMS will be permitted. Drive Train: Engines may be chained in with 4 chains standard 3/8 chain max. These chains may be no longer than 16 and no more than 2 chain links may be welded to the engine cradle behind the motor mount. 2 chains permitted to frame in front of A-arms (1 per side) 2 chain links welded to frame. Welds for this may not exceed a continuous 3 weld. Chains must attach to engine and no separating the links of chain.

5 Motor of choice is permitted. Distributor protectors are allowed Nothing that attaches to the engine can be wider than the stacks/headers (example: distributor protector, engine, cradles, etc. or be used to strengthen cars) A transmission brace may be used. May attach to bell housing or distributor protector and the tail shaft. They must be on the top of the transmission and not strengthen the car in any way. Nothing allowed below the bell housing bolt or the side bottom bolt on tail shaft. This cannot extend past transmission mount. You may use a skit plate. This may attach to the transmission pan and oil pan. Nothing may extend past the rear of the oil pan or forward of the sump area of the oil pan and must be flat plate only. If you use a homemade bell housing as in a steel or aluminum bell, transmission braces are STILL allowed. Oil pan and transmission pan may be plated. The plate used may be only 1 wider than the pan they are welded to. If you use a transmission brace/protector, you may weld to cross member. Suspension: You may modify tie rods. A-arms must remain in stock configuration. Rear trailing arms may be homemade no bigger than 2 X 2 square tubing or pipe. Upper A-arms may be welded down with a ¼ X 2 X 2 piece of steel on front and back side of upper A-arm and you may plug weld the center of the A-arm. NO OTHER WELDS WILL BE PERMITTED ON ANY PART OF A-ARMS. Lower A-arms may not be welded. You can change out the new style A-arms for old style ones. Cars do not have to bounce. Solid suspension is allowed. Coil springs in the rear may be welded, wired, or chained to rear end. No coil to leaf conversions allowed. You may use rear end of choice (8 lug is allowed). Rear end protectors may be used but may not be used to strengthen the car in any way and must be on back of rear end. Leaf spring cars may replace broken springs with factory ¼ leaf springs only. No more than 7 springs allowed and must have a 2 stagger and mounted in factory location. Shackles and hangers may be welded doesn't have to bounce. Can be flat leafed, welded together 4 clamps per side, 2 wide. Must still meet bumper height restrictions. Idler arm must be bolted factory to frame. No bolts will be permitted all the way through the frame. Sway bar may be welded to bottom of frame in the factory location. You may use a 1.5 X 4 bracket or a 2 square tubing or pipe to weld to sway bar to attach to frame. Upper and lower A-arms must be factory, passenger car type. No homemade ones will be permitted. Questions? Contact: Billy Rose (765) Mike Fredricks (765) Kevin Rabenstein (765)

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