Tube Rivet Tutorial. Author: Janice Fowler Ed2 September Notes before you start

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1 Tube Rivet Tutorial Author: Janice Fowler Ed2 September 2008 MATERIALS Metal sheet (any gauge) Metal tubing (any size) Files large and needle, various sizes Sandpaper (medium to fine grit) Jeweler s Saw and blade (blade size determined by metals selected) Hammer ballpein or riveting Drill and drill bit (and lube such as beeswax, candle wax, or BurLife) Nail Anvil or bench block Punches or other hard flared tool Sharpie Wire gauge, calipers, or mm graduated ruler Two crucial factors with tube rivets: Notes before you start Hole size to tube size ratio the tube diameter and the hole size should be a close match. If the fit is not snug fit it will be difficult to finish the rivet. Tube length there should only be a small amount of the tubing extended beyond the hole/metal. If the tubing is too long it will bend over on itself instead of flaring or mushrooming nicely during the setting process.

2 GETTING READY 1. First you will want to determine how large of a rivet you want. This may be determined by aesthetics or could be dependent on the function of the rivet. 2. Select the tubing and measure the gauge or outside diameter. This can be done with a Brown and Sharpe wire gauge, a pair of calipers, or even a small mm graduated ruler. 3. Find a matching drill bit. The drill bit will need to be an exact match or slightly smaller than the tubing size. (It is recommended to use a drill bit slightly smaller and then enlarge the hole slowly with a round file until the fit is snug.) *Do not select a drill bit that is larger than the tubing. This will make setting the rivet very difficult and in some cases impossible* DRILLING HOLE(S) 4. Determine the placement of the rivet(s). Mark that spot with a sharpie. 5. Place piece on a hard surface (such as your bench block) to prevent distortion. Then use the nail & hammer, or a center punch, to make a small divot (mark, dent) on your sharpie mark. (the indentation will provide a place for the drill bit to grab and will prevent it from dancing across the metal) 6. Lube your drill bit by inserting it into the lubricant at a slow speed. Drill hole(s). When drilling, use a straight downward pressure to avoid having the hole at an angle and begin slowly so the drill bit does not dance across the metal. 7. Tidy up the hole(s). Use a round needle file and/or sandpaper to carefully remove any large burs or rough edges.

3 SAWING THE TUBING 8. Check the fit of your tubing. If needed, ream out or enlarge the hole with a round file. Once you have a snug fit you will need to measure the length of tubing. 9. Insert your tubing into the hole so that a few millimeters extend on the other side of the hole. Use the sharpie and make a mark on the tubing a few mms from the metal. This determines where to saw. 10. Saw on the mark. TIPS: *Sawing through tubing can be difficult. It helps to have a jig to hold the tubing while during sawing. *If more than one rivet is required, measure the tubing at the sharpie mark prior to cutting and make marks on the tubing for as many cuts as are needed to help ensure equal sizing. 11. Clean up the tubing. For nicely shaped rivets the tubing should be flat, no angles. Take a close look and file any irregular edges until the tubing is flat and straight on both ends. Be careful not to file too much though or you will reduce the length of the tubing. This angle should be filed flat. NOTES:

4 SETTING THE RIVET 12. Insert a length of the cut tubing into the hole with an equal amount of tubing extended on each side. 13. Place your piece on the bench block or anvil. Make sure the tubing is still centered and then insert punch into top of tubing. Holding everything carefully, use your hammer to give a light tap or two on top of the punch. This should ever so slightly flare the tubing from the downward pressure. 14. Turn piece over and again insert the punch (same punch) in the other side of tubing. Be sure the piece you are working on is flat on the bench block to provide the proper support for your piece. Give a tap or two with hammer, in the same way that you did the first side. NOTE: Sometimes when you flip the piece over the first time the tubing will fall out. Simply put it back in and carefully turn it over. Once you have begun to set each side, the tubing should not fall out again. If it does, put it back in and keep going. It should be secure once you have used the next larger punch. If it does not, your hole may be too large. You can select another section of tubing that is larger or start over. 15. Repeat this process, working one side then the other, with progressively larger punches until you have a nice flared tube on both sides of your piece. Below are pictures of how it looks as you go along. Very beginning of flaring Starting to look good, but not quite done! Look Mom, I m flared! Now you are done with the punches and will work with the hammer alone.

5 Tubing curling over to form head of rivet 16. Using the round end of your hammer (if working with a ball pein or the small flat end if working with a riveting hammer), work on the very edge of the flared tubing with light taps so the tubing begins to roll over. You want to strike with a light to moderate down and outward (from the center) blow. (It is very subtle but you will be hammering down and towards yourself almost.) The idea is to push the metal down but also pull it a bit as you flatten it. This will give a slightly round appearance to the rivet itself almost like round wire. As always you will begin hammering the tubing on one side of the piece (piece should be flat on bench) and then the other. Alternative: you can also hit with a more central blow (tap) with the flat end of your hammer and simply flatten the tube rivet. I use the round head of my ballpein hammer but others prefer the flat side. Some people use a tiny rivet hammer, when it comes down to it, it is a matter of whatever you are comfortable with. Remember to work on one side of your piece and then the other, this maintains an even length of tubing on each side and allows even flaring. And voila the finished rivet! NOTES:

6 Troubleshooting: Tubing is bending rather than rolling over the tubing was too long. Try to file it down a bit and re-flare it, or remove it and start again. Tubing falls out when turned over the hole or tubing was not the right size. It needs to be a tight fit! Remember practice, practice, practice! As with any other skill or technique this may take some time to perfect. Practice with scrap metals and copper tubing. Happy riveting! ~Janice Further Inspiration: Tube rivets are more versatile than you at first may think. They can be used to attach beads or other items to your work. You are really only limited by your own imagination! Misc. Information: I used sterling for all of the rivets shown in this tutorial. Vendors: Thunderbird Supply: online: Monsterslayer: online: TB Hagstoz & Sons: online: (order by phone or catalog) In addition, tubing in base metals may be found at hardware and hobby stores. This tutorial is copyright of Janice E. Fowler and is the sole property of the author. Please do not lend, distribute, copy, or otherwise disseminate without prior written permission from the author. Author: Janice Fowler Ed3 September 2008